'93 Volvo 940 fuel pump sender assembly (Regina / Rex, non-turbo) - removal, installation

[@mikaelhedman6449]

Thanks for a very Nice "slow TV" video. Helped me a lot and gave me courage to remove the in-tank fuel pump on my 1995 944 B230 FK. It was complicated but your video gave me the courage to go for it. Picked up the pump and see to my delight that the hose was pulled from the pump. There was a one-time staple that has now been changed to a better one. Now the car is running again after 3 months of downtime. Thanks for your video!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Great to hear!

[@tracklizard4018]

Sköt du av originalledningen och klämman med bosch pumpen från fabrik, eller satt det en eftermarknadspump i din? Har kört 255l/t pump som inte lyckades pressa av originalledningen.

[@mikaelhedman6449]

Bra fråga, kollade aldrig beteckningen på pumpen. Dock var det så pass skitigt runt om själva locket till pumpen så jag tror den suttit orörd från 1994. Klamret runt slangen vid pumpen var av engångstyp och en volvomek sa att det inte är ovanligt att de klammer som sätts dit original är undermåliga. Så jag tror att det är original Bosch eller annan? Har bilder på pumpen, slangen och klammer men ser inte beteckning tyvärr. Tänker inte öppna igen i onödan 😊

[@manonmars2009]

I'm watching you Smitty because I have a 1992 940....and you guessed it, it's time to replace the in-tank fuel pump. I am sooooo excited about starting this job. I'm going to have to coil up like a snake to fit inside the trunk. Hot damn.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Manon Mars - I should’ve thrown some blankets in the back there. Would’ve made life a lot easier for me. It was about 90° out in the shop when I did this job, so I probably made it sound a lot worse than it really was. At least you don’t have to get under the car and drop the tank like with most domestic cars. Good luck. Hope the video helps you. 👍🍻

[@hughjazzole2037]

Real Volvos have room for 4 dogs or more!!!

[@tracklizard4018]

@@SmittySmithsonite I did this snowed in (.5m of snow) with the rear end facing a rose bush (had my legs all in it the whole time) with intermittent snow winds. The dampers for the boot are also shot so I had to use the original jack and a jackstand (half on the jack, half on the floor to achieve the right angle) with a jackpad (protect the boot mechanism) to hold up the boot lmao I wish I could've been in a hot and humid, well lite garage (we have like three hours of sun in a day). (yes I have huge hands) Idk why I didn't buy a 945 ;(

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@tracklizard4018 Been there, brother. Did that the first 28 years of having my driver's license. Worked outside in rain, hail, sleet, snow, ice, blazing heat, and subzero temps. I don't miss that one bit!

[@tracklizard4018]

@@SmittySmithsonite Great experience afterhand though! I remember when I did an apprenticeship at a shop and I used hand tools for everything. Everyone laughed and kept handing me pneumatic wrenches and specialist tools. At least I know I can get (mostly) anything done with what I have. Currently hiding inside from the cold, again. Tried doing the job without taking off the inlet filling hose, which kills your arms since you have to press it to the side the whole time. Hammrered a 7mm socket on the rusted clamp and some rust solution, hoping I can get it off so I can get this god damn thing to twist in correctly! Definitely happy it's friday meaning beer, beers, and more beer when I'm done!

[@stevenginnever5343]

Appreciate your pain in bringing us this video, i suspect I have the same problem on my 740 wagon. Will now give it a go after watching this great informative video.

[@markc1844]

Greetings from UK (Well kind of im working in Portugal LOLS), thanks so much for this video, this has really helped me trying to help my Uncle Out, and im going to tackle the job now as he can't afford the Volvo Garage in the UK. Ive only ever done basic Jobs, So I think I will just buy a new Pump disconnect the battery & fit it, I won't carry out any fuel gauge tests like you, as I think I would end up blowing my self up! Thanks for the amusement too! Thanks again really appreciate this.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Good luck, Mark! Glad the video was helpful, and entertaining for you. I appreciate you watching!

[@markc1844]

@@SmittySmithsonite Your video, as well as entertaining was a MASSIVE help to me, my uncles is a 96 940 all went well until trying to get that son of a bitch out the tank! Jesus talk about a puzzle, you're being overcome by fumes, literally pouring with sweat and trying to manoeuvre that assembly out of the tank! What a bitch it was! If you want a drinking buddy, I'll fly over as I feel like drinking now lols! Take Care!

[@tracklizard4018]

For anyone doing this: Twist the pump lefty loosey 180 degrees when you pull it out of the pump. You want to keep it just unplugged but right in there and twist, then you kinda feel when you can start pulling it outwards. By the end the pump will be 180 degrees spun and all the way out of the tank, reverse this for install. Take a marker and mark the "up" position of the unit so it's easier to align the pump straight forward facing (so you don't get delivery issues). Make sure the pre-filter of your pump is facing straight forward along with the unit. Make sure you get better hose clamps than original. Go to your local hydraulic shop and explain the situation, they should be able to find the right hose and clamps that can withstand being submerged in e85 etc. (The plier and worm style clamps suck here). The biggest tip is to be VERY careful with fumes. A full tank will burn but an empty tank will explode. (AFR is something like 14.7kg of air for 1kg of ron/mon 87-95). Keep it well ventilated and dont hammer any metal on metal (like the plier hose clamp on the breather iirc) which can create sparks or use a torch etc to see (flashlight). Do this in daylight/keep a light source further away and in a well ventilated space. If you're going to leave the unit open overnight, screw on the retaining ring again so it doesn't shrink (I've heard this can happen but hasn't to me). You can also take this moment to cover the hole with something which will protect against debris. Finally, do NOT attempt this if you're not somewhat experienced as a mechanic. Chances are you won't be able to get it right and now you'll need to drop the fuel tank to get your car started. Worst case scenario your car turns into a fireball. If that isn't discouraging enough then let me just say that getting the sender unit out is the easy part, and that pit in your stomach when you realise you can't get it back in will hurt more than paying a mechanic.

[@4.203Perkins_Norway]

Wow didnt know that regina 940 existed, never heard of that! Know the struggle of getting it to run when it stops

[@stevendwoodruff]

Thanks for this. Much appreciated, liked the Boston style.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

You're welcome, Steven. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍🍻

[@abyssalsoul6216]

Regarding the check valve , the symptom I had was difficulty in starting after a shut down. I would have to cycle the ignition key a few times for priming the it would start right away. I gues the fuel was draining back.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Yeah, that's the normal way they always fail. That one Volvo I had here took me a bit of time to figure out. I could hear the fuel pump blazing away in the tank, but then the car would die like it ran out of fuel! Was tough to figure out. I had to just remove the pump, and hook it to a battery while in a small container of acetone (so it would evaporate quickly). I had it running with not one drop coming out. Strangest thing I had ever seen. Then I'd tap the ground connection turning it on and off rapidly, and then it shot acetone 7' in the air! Been doing this a long time, and I have never seen a failure like that before, or since!

[@wyattoneable]

"I'm going to start drinking". I feel ya Smitty. Doing auto work is a pain in the butt sometimes.

[@willefixit]

nothing a coupe 6packs cant fix lol

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Don't we know it! Thanks for stopping by, Wyatt. 🍻

[@peterd.1165]

Thanks for your video - I'm just about to do the same job on my 940 !

[@royanthony4152]

I caught it , before you did, but very informative 👌 thank you

[@CubasAutomotive]

Omg! Smitty! You had me in stitches! @27:22. I couldn't help but laugh, but again, not at you but it's such a huge reminder of what I've done in the past. "I'm gonna start drinking"... hahaha. A shot or two is always good!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

😁 Indeed! Glad you enjoyed, Cuba! 😊 I was all pretzeled up in the trunk, and the humidity was at least 90% in the shop that day ... then I get the dropsies, lol. So many parts fell down that access hole there! I got so wore out climbing in and out of that trunk, lol. Anyway, thanks for watching! 👍🍻

[@diegosti]

Hello, I am trying to buy a 940gl 1992 regina with 99k miles for $800 and the car last month 06/11/21 the fuel pump was replaced. The owner a 82 years old man said is running, but battery is bad, so I went there yesterday with a new H6 battery and did not start at all. If the pump is new could be the fuel pump relay? I guess it goes in the ashtray the one on the left? I really want the car it just needs love and cleaning.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

In all honesty, it could be anything - stale fuel, broken timing belt, no spark, clogged injectors or no power to them, etc.. If you have no voltage at the pump, then the relay is definitely suspect. Yes, it's in the ashtray. I can't recall which is which - there are several relays in there. You should be able to find a relay layout with a Google search. With an older owner, I suspect the car sat a while. My first check would be fuel quality. If what you have in the tank won't burn, it'll never start & run. When mine sat over a year and a half (probably closer to 2 years or longer, since I don't know how long it sat with the previous owners), even with fresh fuel, it took a LONG time to finally fire and run. I was cranking for a long, long time, over and over again. Had to let the starter cool off a few times. The previous owner attempted a fuel pump replacement, and set the harness on fire somehow - after that, he gave up and parked it. Even with a new pump and a fresh tank of gas, it still took a few minutes for either the injectors to clear out, or for the stale fuel in the lines to be purged.

[@diegosti]

Just bought the car for $500, 1 owner 99k miles all original 0 rust. The car failed 2016 and now is in my hands. I removed the fuel pump sender unit and it was touched by a trash mechanic. I re did the unit and put new pump, hoses. Everything works like new again. Lucky me!

[@NicoleEhrhardt-y5w]

WE have a 740 and Sometimes the fuel pump did Not Work at all. Talked to a Volvo Specialist and He Said, to 90% it's the relay. Yes, IT IS located behind the ashtray on the left, replaced IT and No Problems since....

[@psmarcela8046]

Not sure if you can help. My son has owned my old 1990 Volvo 740GL wagon with the Regina system for about 5 years. The fuel pump assembly has failed. Leaks gas and it's sitting at the shop. No auto parts has it. He has called a number of junk yards in our area (Oregon) now he is moving to calling some in CA. He's completely disheartened. The housing leading to the fuel pump by the gas tank is what's leaking according to the mechanic who is not helping very much with looking for the part. Who has this damn part?

[@SmittySmithsonite]

They're no longer manufactured by Volvo, so whatever is out there is all that is left. I got extremely lucky and happened to find mine used, but in excellent condition on eBay out in CA when I decided to fix the issue. Eeuroparts.com used to have them, but not sure if they can get them anymore. You'd have to call and ask. Best bet is to find one used, but still in decent condition somewhere. You could look on eBay, or use www.searchtempest.com for all of Craigslist and eBay in one shot. Craigslist would require you to drive to meet someone in person, of course, but might be your best bet, especially if someone happens to be parting out the same model vehicle in your area. You might find several other hard-to-find parts off the vehicle there that you need as well. Good luck! DON'T GIVE UP YET!!

[@72fordmaverick]

Find a facebook.forum.spmeone will.have a parts car to sell u one same.day

[@coreymills1520]

Get some Wild Irish Rose on me haha excellent job Smitty

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Corey Mills - Thanks, Corey! LOL, yeah I could’ve used some that day, that’s for sure. Thanks for looking out! 😁👍🍻

[@novasilas9306]

a tip : watch movies at Flixzone. Been using it for watching loads of movies recently.

[@orlandowesley2390]

@Nova Silas Definitely, been using flixzone} for since november myself :)

[@peterelias2345]

Thanks for your video. I am planning to use the stand alone fuel gauge to back up the underread gauge in instrument cluster. Do you have resistance value for both empty and full of volvo 960 GL for my reference? Thanks in advance

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Sorry, I never checked that ... yet! So far my gauge has been working fine, albeit reading slightly lower since installing this assembly. If I run into an issue with it, I'll make a video on the repair process, for sure. Thanks for watching. 🍻

[@Chris-Fennimore]

Looking good, did u verify no leaks? Just did a fuel pump on my wifes 04 Outback. Really easy. Thank god for the access door in the trunk.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Yeah, went and filled the tank right to the brim (was gurgling inside the filler neck, lol) the next day, and it didn't leak a drop. We've put 900 miles on it since the install, and I've made sure to top it off until fuel was sitting in the filler neck to be 100% sure, and it's all good. Well worth the $169. I'm definitely a big fan of the access door! Never had that luxury on any of my domestics. Thanks for watching, Chris! 👍🍻

[@doorguru168888]

Just got a free 1994 940 that has been sitting for 10 years. I will start at the fuel tank.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Doorguru - Nice! You struck gold there! 👍🍻

[@pacifiedherbicide]

Thank you for going through the trouble of making this video. You mentioned you replaced the fuel pump on it once before, by chance do you remember what brand or model you went with? I'm trying to find the most reliable pump I can find for a Regina system, since I really don't want to make a habit of having to do the job twice. Thanks again!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Thanks for the comment, and for watching the video - glad it helped! 👍😎 When I bought the vehicle, the fuel pump assembly was out of the tank and on the floor in front of the passenger's seat. The previous owner had bought a new pump for it, but had an electrical fire somehow attempting to install the pump. Luckily he didn't burn the vehicle to the ground! That new pump was also on the floor up front when I bought it, still in the box. Anyway, I believe that pump was a Professional Parts Sweden brand, if I remember correctly. I ran that for 4 years or so, and only removed it to install the new sender assembly in this video. I saved the pump I removed, as it's still good. They're a quality brand from what I've seen. I don't have a ton of foreign car experience, but with domestics, you can't go wrong with Bosch. Eeuroparts.com has a lifetime warranty on everything they sell, and they only carry Professional Parts Sweden, Bosch, and OE Volvo pumps. Can't go wrong with any of these, although the OE pump is extremely expensive.

[@pacifiedherbicide]

@@SmittySmithsonite Wonderful, thank you for the info!

[@abyssalsoul6216]

So my 91 740 with Regina is still not fixed as yet. I saw a post about the fuel regulator that is on the sending unit itself and the person with the same symptom as I am having removed it and claims his car is now running well. Eliminating this pressure regulator will be my next move. The turbos do not have the regulator on their sending unit. Do not confuse this regulater with the dampner thats on the fue rail. Regina cars have one intank fuel pump and do not have a check valve

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Eliminating the regulator isn't the best course of action. In any condition except wide-open throttle, the injectors will flow too much fuel without the regulator in play, and your mileage will suffer, along with driveability, possibly. Never drove one without the regulator, so just an educated guess - any injector will flow more fuel the more pressure you feed it. Just like a garden hose. I'm not quite sure what you mean by "sending unit" and "dampner" - no such thing on these cars regarding the fuel system, at least not in North America. You've got the pump, a one-way check valve in the pump output regardless of which system it has (Regina or Bosch), a filter, then a vacuum controlled regulator up on the fuel rail above the engine. The Bosch system will have an extra external fuel pump along the frame rail - the Regina does not have this, so the 2 pumps are different and not interchangeable as far as I know. If the vehicle is suffering from fuel starvation, you need to fix that. You've got either a failed check valve in the pump, failing pump, low voltage / amperage at the pump power, ground, or both, clogged injectors, or a stopped up fuel filter.

[@abyssalsoul6216]

@@SmittySmithsonite Thank you for your reply. When parked If I slowly increase the revs there isn't any problem at all getting to max rpms. However if I gun the engine from idle it sometimes bogs down , sometimes misfires and eventually picks up in rpms. Since I can help myself somewhat I have renewed the fuel pump and filter , spark plugs and wires , rotor a dist. cap ,fuel pressure regulator at the fuel rail, new coil and ICM. Remanufactured injectors as well. I am not alone with this issue and one gentleman found that it was the pressure regulator ( located on the fuel sender /fuel pump assembly and attached to the output end of the pump and inserted in the fuel tank ) that was faulty. Unique , I gather with the regina system , is this fuel pressure regulator that resembles a mini ford brake master cylinder. This pressure regulator was determined by the gentleman to be bad and he bypassed it and has been driving his car without any side effects. I am willing to try this as these units are no longer available .As I mentioned also the turbos do not have this intank pressure regulator. The "Dapener" I am speeking about is another name , I suppose , for a pressure regulator and its purpose is to smoothen out the pulses from the fuel pump and this is the one you see in the engine bay on the fuel rail. The intank regulator , I take it , reduces the pressure to the overall system based on demand (?) I stand corrected if this isn't so . I do believe I am having a fuel starvation issue when I gun the engine. I will definitly report back with my findings. It's been a learning curve so far. Again thanks for your response. By the way, you have me thinking about the ground connection , I'll test that too. Regards

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@abyssalsoul6216 You're welcome. Could be lean, could be an ignition timing issue. The symptoms fit both problems. Unless the turbo car is that different from the naturally aspirated version, I'm not aware of any in-tank regulator. The only regulator on mine and a customer's 940's is under the hood with the vacuum hose coming off it. Does look like a mini brake booster. On our vehicles, that's the fuel pressure regulator. Low vacuum (Heavy load, heavy throttle) allows full pressure to the injectors. High vacuum (Light load, closed or partially open throttle) pulls on the diaphragm and splits the excess fuel to the return line, reducing fuel pressure to the injectors. That's the reason for the vacuum line - it "tells" the regulator how much throttle or load you're giving. That thing you speak of on the outlet side of the in-tank pump is a one way check valve. That's what keeps your system pressurized at rest, so that you'll have a short crank time the next day, or hours later vs. an extended crank time to build pressure. That would be the symptom if it were defeated - instead of immediately firing with a turn of the key, the starter will crank for several seconds until pressure builds. My customer's 940 once suffered from a stalling issue caused by that check valve in a brand new fuel pump. It would flow a bit at first, then stop all fuel flow after a minute or so. Confirmed this when I removed the pump and ran it in a cup full of acetone (Used since it evaporates quickly). The car had already stalled, I removed the pump, and when run in that cup, not a drop came out the top. When I tapped the ground wire on the battery to rapidly stop / start the pump, the valve broke free and shot acetone 5' in the air. An interesting failure, for sure!

[@mikeup9160]

hi I like to know what I can do to get my pump back in the tank the rite way any tip's? I have a 1997 Volvo s90

[@SmittySmithsonite]

I'm not familiar with that year or model. If it's the same as this 940 here, you just have to keep trying different angles until it finally drops in.

[@SierraOne]

How did ya know, It was more fun to watch!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

HAHAHA! I'm psychic. 😁 Thanks for watching, LL! 👍🍻

[@billk5727]

Nice video Smitty! Not only do you have to struggle with working in the trunk, but even more aggravation with the camera! Anyhow you got it done. I'll look into LPS 3, I've been using Fluidfilm and Woolwax for anti-rust protection. Hey, remember the old engine driven mechanical fuel pumps? TakeCare, Bill

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Yeah, I miss those! $10 and 10 minutes, and you were back on the road again. A friend of mine just replaced his ORIGINAL, cam-driven fuel pump on his 60's Plymouth - 51k miles, but FIFTY years of service!! That's impressive. Just can't get that kind of quality anymore. LPS-3 is a bit spendy, but it's really good stuff. Holds up alot longer than most of the rust preventative treatments out there. It's cheaper to buy by the 5-gallon pail, and fill a Sure-Shot with it. Aerosol cans are around $10 each for 11 oz., & $18 for 16 oz., if I remember right. Takes a while to dry, but once it does, it's a thick waxy coating. Thanks Bill! Thanks for watching!👍🍻

[@scuba422123]

smittys euro service! audi jag and volvo! this is why the drinking may be involved that looked like an old gm pump and pulsator and....at least it had a trap door but you still had to work through the trunk

[@SmittySmithsonite]

I know, right? LOL! Sure has been alot of Euro stuff coming through these doors this year! Funny you should say that about the pump. This is the exact same pump I pulled out of a '88 Isuzu Trooper a few years back, too. I had the Trooper one up on a window sill in the old barn, and it matched the Volvo one. Go figure! Volvo used the best-of-the-best back in those days on the 940, so that pump must be a good one. The injectors in it are almost the exact same as my '86 Grand Marquis - just a different color. At 222k miles a few years back, 2 of the 8 were 3% out of spec regarding flow rates, according to the fella that bought them on eBay. I only replaced them because I broke the plastic base on one of them. Good stuff! Thanks for watching, Scuba! 👍🍻

[@kiyaaniijones5018]

What brand to you prefer for a fuel pump I’ve been trying to get one for months now and local stores only have ones half the size of the stock pump!!!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

OE Volvo, or Professional Parts Sweden are my go-to brands for my 940. Yeah, it's a mess out there today. Elections really do have consequences! Wish people would learn ... Walbro was always a good brand, but I had one fail on a neighbor's 940 almost immediately after it was installed a few years back. I think I mentioned that in this vid. A check valve failed the wrong direction of flow, blocking flow out of the pump on occasion.

[@hughjazzole2037]

The volvo clampss are much better.I never use the SS clamps they always seem to come lose.Volvo clamps are stiff & wont come loose,,I have to replace the fuel supply line,,leaks cost $$$

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Indeed they do! I've found with worm clamps, you need to crank them down pretty tight, and buy quality ones. I don't doubt the Volvo ones are good - they used to build great cars! Only had a couple come loose on me over the years - one on a transmission line on my '72 El Camino while way up in Ontario, and another on our '86 Grand Marquis upper hose as my wife was commuting to work. Both had been on there for at least 50k miles, probably more in the Merc.. The ones I removed from the old sending unit here were on for 4 years, and about 50k miles - still tight, no leaks, aside from that big crack in the unit. Thanks for watching, Hugh. 👍🍻

[@nickschiano450]

Hey buddy I have a 92 Volvo 940 just got the fuel pump replaced went to get gas ended up with all of it on the ground. You pointed out the leak you had with the tube, but with me they couldn’t get the part anymore like you said so I think they made a tube with copper or something is that the cause of my leak you think?

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Mine wasn't leaking from the filler tube. It was dripping out of the top plastic of the fuel pump assembly. The 2 smaller vent & return lines rusted, swelled, and split the plastic open like a piece of wood. Every time my tank was full to the top, it would drip. Once close to 3/4 tank, it would only leak when driving, when the gas sloshed around. Parked, it would eventually dry out underneath until the next top off. If you have a leak after repairs were done, I would definitely check all that out. If it only leaks when filling, then that's more than likely the filler tube. If it leaks the same as mine did - at all times only when full, or only when driving at 3/4 tank or less - then it could be the seal around the fuel pump assembly itself, a cross-threaded plastic "nut" that holds the assembly to the tank, or a crack in the housing itself, like mine had. Also have to make sure it's not leaking out of the vent & return lines. Mine were all rusted and leaked like crazy when I first bought it. Cycle the key to get the fuel pump to prime with that access cover removed and a good, bright flashlight, and check for any line leaks. If you can get underneath the car after it sat overnight, you'll see telltale gas staining wherever the leak is coming from. That can help narrow it down. Good luck.

[@nickschiano450]

Thanks buddy everything was fixed. But the problem is now the gas gauge is not moving after this replacement. It’s stuck in the under halfway position but the tank is full. Does this mean something in the tank needs to be replaced now? Thanks for the help!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@nickschiano450 - You're welcome. Could be just a bad connection where everything was plugged back in, or there's a problem with the float, float arm, or contactor for the float. I've had some in the past that required a light Scotchbrite sanding on the brass contacts to make a better connection, then the gauge began working again.

[@nickschiano450]

Hey man it’s nick here again from before asking about the fuel pump. I don’t know how much you know about this car in terms of stalling but ever since I got the fuel pump done and it was fixed from the leak. Now, it’s stalling when I hard brake or go around a bend it completely turns off, usually starts back up right away after. It will start to stall, but when I press on the gas it jerks and keeps going but usually dies. I took the vehicle to master mechanics and somehow they can’t figure it out I think it’s bullshit they must have messed something up with the fuel system id say. What do you think? Thanks

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Hey Nick. Sorry to hear the car is still giving you a hard time. That has "bad electrical connection" written all over it. The symptoms fit. Those kinds of problems are extremely tough to diagnose, since it's intermittent. You'd have to try and recreate the issue with the engine running but parked. First, I'd do a visual inspection of the wiring to the pump - anywhere the harness rubs against sharp metal would be suspect. Wiring shouldn't be near the exhaust or driveshaft, but that's something to check too. If that all checks out, or you can't find anything obvious, I'd hook up a fuel pressure gauge somewhere where you can see it easily, fire the engine up and move sections of the harness from the pump forward until you can get it to die. What is more than likely happening is either the power supply is sliding forward into something and grounding out (not likely, since this would blow a fuse), or the power or ground is becoming open circuited when it slides forward. You can narrow down which part you're losing by connecting a jumper wire to the pump ground, and connecting it to a good ground in the trunk somewhere. If the problem stops, you'll know you have an intermittent ground.

[@StreetForged]

I cant believe how much worse this job is compared to 240s. In the time it took me to disconnect the hoses, I'd have already finished the entire job on a 240. Not sure why this sender needs to have twice as many connections and half the working space of a prior model with the same fuel system. I've been trying to get the sender out for a half hour without breaking it and it just doesnt even feel possible to rotate it in the tank due to the baffling. As for the coloring, thats normal. Every one of these tank pumps ive seen has had yellowed plastic identical to this. Not sure about the sock, but thats the same one ive seen in every tank as well.

[@willefixit]

boom hey smitty

[@willefixit]

had done one in a wagon pain in the ass fumed out in and out 2/3 times ran wire forgot ring fumes make me forget to.used lps3 on aircraft good stuff had lps1 and 2 also kinda like light med and heavy.u get in bulk?i have same sprayer . oh yea i struck blood also.plus wicked head ache . cust said easy job just didnt have tools or time yea rite. full tank too . have a good day, back on fire wood processing ,changed out rubber seat and needle on 5hp splitter float level almost shut off cause seat swelled only run full choke. now need to repack ram never stops .entertaing vid thanks.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

FIRST! Hey Willie! 👍🍻 Running around like crazy today. Got 4 tractors I'm working on, plus my buddy's '96 Tahoe that's all apart out there getting new axle seals, wheel cylinders, & a rear brake overhaul. Also discovered 2 of his U-bolts rotted right in half! Something didn't look right with the pinion angle, so I started looking closer. One U-bolt on each side completely rusted in 2. Ordered some shocks for him, too, since the rears are about half a month away from rusting right through. Some new E-brake cables will finish that job off. Going to need a lot of body work to get a sticker in a few months, unfortunately - foam and spray paint to the rescue, lol. Have a great day, Willie! Thanks for watching. 🍻

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@willefixit - Thanks Willie! Yeah, I bought the LPS in a 5-gallon pail many years back. Was VERY expensive, but alot cheaper than it is right now I'd bet.They don't give that stuff away, but it works great. Was alot cheaper than buying it in the aerosol cans by several hundred dollars. Yeah always the way with fuel pumps! Always full to the top! Carb problems are also never-ending these days, thanks to the damn ethanol they throw in the fuel against our will. That stuff costs the economy millions in downtime and repairs, I'd bet. Anyway, have a good one Willie - weather at least cooled off a bit for ya. 👍

[@pontusandersson4467]

Thats a professional parts SWEDEN pump😁

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Indeed it was. I can never think of names, no matter how well known, off the top of my head while I'm filming. Too many beers for too many years, lol. :) Thanks for watching.