A Better 3D-Printed Grinding Wheel Balancer

[@kensherwin4544]

In my decades in the shop, one thing I've learned. There is no horse so dead that it can't stand one more beating. We look forward with anticipation the next balancer video.

[@jamiemacdonald436]

Neigh 🐴

[@spencerr505]

One tip for final balancing, if you give the wheel a little bit of starting motion and watch where it settles each time starting in different positions this can help reduce the influence of starting static friction. This can also help identify if there is an issue in your adjustment of level, or bend in the rails of your balancer.

[@Clough42]

I think that would be interesting to experiment with, but I would want a better quality arbor than this abomination from Tormach. The tool marks in the shaft are probably the biggest source of error at the moment. It's too long to grind in my lectric centers, unfortunately. I could buy the Sopko shaft, but it's over $400, so unless I start getting issues in the grind I can't overcome, I think this is close enough. Don't tell Robin Renzetti I said that. :)

[@noahkatz9616]

@@Clough42 How about just chuck up the arbor in a length and hit it with fine sandpaper.

[@Skyliner_369]

@@Clough42 I'd say, if you're in a making mood, you could probably turn a shaft yourself with a nice toolpost grinder, depending on just how long a shaft you need. especially because grinding is a very low tool pressure operation when you're pretty much sparking a surface perfect

[@danl.4743]

@@Clough42 As an owner of a Tormach 1100 your comment made me burst out laughing. "This abomination from Tormach". 🤣🤣🤣

[@donaldvantongeren8385]

Completely agree, I use the Dubro balancer like that, it really shows you the last bit of inbalance

[@summerforever6736]

You knew before you made the first video that you are not going to buy a expensive balancer! 3D printing is something else!!!

[@melgross]

I have to say that you’re really pretty adept with 3D printing. The bad thing about using the Knipex pliers (I use them too for things I “shouldn’t”) is that you’ll get complaints about your using them.

[@michaelkalbfleisch4492]

Using the Knipex pliers to take off the nuts of the wheel is perfectly fine! Since they have parallel jaws that tighten the more you grip on a fastener they are better that wrenches for this task. I used them on aircraft hydraulic “B” nuts since any damage to the nut would require the complete replacement of the line as well as the nut..

[@624Dudley]

That’s exactly the task for which I bought my first Knipex pliers some years ago (retired A&P). 👍

[@mattanderson5821]

If you are correct then there’s no need for sized wrenches or sockets.

[@c0mputer]

I just got an X1 Carbon and I definitely sit and watch it. Sometimes I sit next to the printer and watch the print on the video feed in the app because I’m insane. Really nice balancers, now that you know they work you can make them out of metal. I think that horse still has a pulse.

[@danl.4743]

I'm not a grinder and never used that. But I was surprised when after you balanced that wheel so nicely, you dressed the wheel, and didn't balance again. My thinking is that you balanced "elliptical" wheel. But now that you've dressed it, you removed that weight from the extra material that you've dressed out. It would have been really interesting to put the wheel back on the balancer to see the effect of the dressing on the balance. Also would have been super interesting to see the difference, if any, of the grind surface quality between your last result and the result of re-balancing the wheel after the dressing.

[@louisnoel3170]

Great! As a mechanical engineer, I really enjoy seeing your approaches to mechanical design with these types of projects and walkthroughs. One of the many reasons you have one of my favorite channels. Congrats on 100k recently too 👏

[@wolfhausindustries]

I recently just bought my first surface grinder, an older Manual 618 Okamoto. Currently trying to tool it up for everything I have planned for it. Bc of the limited space a my home shop I was able to convince my boss at my day job to let me install the machine up there, which was super cool on his part, but it is def having an effect on the time its taking for getting everything set up and operational in the way I want by not having it at my disposal 24/7. A couple of day ago though, I finished all the CAD work and literally just ordered the materials I'll need (I'm a "if it's made from metal, it will be better or at least stronger" kinda guy, regardless of alloy chosen) to make my own wheel balancer based off of the Tormach-style design (but using low carbon steel for the body rather than cast iron). Still contemplating whether I want to weld the body/base of the balancer together or just use fasteners for that, either way, it's pretty ironic to see you putting out videos right now for a similar project. Cool stuff man. Appreciate getting to learn from your efforts for my own stuff.

[@morilamorila2825]

Hello. im currently an apprientice in machining in Germany. I think i have a solution to your problem. Our most recent toppic was: Cooling solutions. Especialy Mistcooling. We could proof, that while cutting with "an undefined cutting geometry" (Grinding, honing and lapping) mistcooling worsens the surface quality. Floodcooling or dry Air resulted in the best surfaces. The Grindingwheel nooks and holes get "Sticky" from mistcoolant and the super fine metal partikles gets stuck in there. but only the super super fine ones. You can only realy seee them in a microscope. Aditional do NEVER NEVER EVER start your wet-cooling with a stationary grindingwheel. The wheel is pourus like a sponge, coolant seeps (if stationary) on one side in, and throws your perfect balance WAY of. In Germany we (of course) have laws of safety for machinists, and one of it is: Cooling only AFTER spinning. Please be prepared, if you try to aircool your grinder, it can create a fire hazard

[@nickhall5959]

Thank you for sharing. I use a surface grinder quite often at work but wasn't taught this by the old boy due to retire. I also use centerless grinders but the coolant is never switched off during the day possibly for the same reason.

[@Enjoymentboy]

I'm no machinist, engineer or professional by any means. Just a tinkerer. But there is something, to me, that is so incredibly pleasing about using tools to make a tool that makes other tools work better.

[@Disneymkvii]

WOW! Night and day difference! I'm so glad you chose to chase that little extra balance. Really made a huge difference and gives me motivation to do the same.

[@leathermanTK55]

Great Video. Please take some care with the sparks entering the dust bag of the ShopVac. Any spark in the dust may cause a smolder and ignite sometime later when youre away from the shop. You would, of course, have a couple of smoke detectors in the shop but just a safety tip. cheers from NZ

[@ianloy1854]

@clough42 Good point - the same would apply to the vac hose where they are hottest and can build up, so make sure it is capable of reasonable temps, whatever that is.... With the shield you could lower it down to just clearing the part so about 10mm or so it looks like - then would would catch even more, or a flexible extension?. Finally you say you put the diamond behind centre so if it catches it will push out of the way. It will if it SLIDES but if it TIPS then not so much. If you wanted to ensure that wasn't to occur then the diamond should be past the rear of the holder so that it pivots away. The I would think it was best to have the folder shaped or sized so it will hit the wheel rather than be grabbed by it. Finally AWESOME video amongst a never ending stream of AWESOME videos. Wish I could use Fusion360 as well as you. G'day from Aus - us neighbours have to stick together :)

[@noahkatz9616]

Very nice, James. The sensitivity of the bearing balancer can be improved by embedding them in larger diameter wheels. The greater radius will lessen the effect of surface imperfections, as well as reduce the effective friction torque of the bearings. I once had a balancer that had the bearings in 3" dia. knife-edged steel wheels.

[@dylanwilliams213]

You have become my favorite maker/ machinist on the KZbins. Thanks for your great content and your thoughtful designs.

[@BrilliantDesignOnline]

Watching your 3D printed parts materialize; we TOTALLY _never_ do that. 3D printers are the new pen plotters. We never watched those either because we were always all yelled at to go back to our desks and get back to work.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Wish 3D printers could pull the G forces of a plotter.

[@blahorgaslisk7763]

ROFL! Yea I remember the first time I set up a plotter, sent it a text file to print out and watched it meticulously as it drew out the text. Yea, I just might have spent an hour or so staring at that thing... The funny thing is it was working with 7-bit ASCII and 7-bit serial communication. 7-bits, one stop bit, one parity. X-On / X-Off handshake. So making it print correctly was an interesting exercise. I think I had worked at the company about two weeks at the time, and I had never worked with serial protocols before. So I was dropped off in the deep end with a set of manuals and told to get it working... Edit: You know what else I've spent way to much time of my life staring at? Defragmentation utilities. Especially those that would color code files so you would see just how they were shuffled around to make space to write them into contiguous blocks. There was something hypnotical about seeing all this data being moved about. And I know I wasn't the only one hypnotized into staring slack jawed as the computer created order out of chaos on the HDD... When WinXP did away with the graphic representation of the process I was both relieved that I no longer would risk staring at it for hours on end, and so irritated at my guilty pleasure being denied me.

[@burkejohnson4539]

​@@Bob_Adkinsyou have no idea what they are capable of if you don't think they can.

[@JonathanRockway]

I didn't read the comments about the Knipex pliers on the last video, but I used to be very anti-adjustable-wrench and insisted on using the exact right size for everything. I got some of the Knipex plier wrench things at the recommendation of this channel and they're pretty much the only tool I use now. They just work great for pretty much everything. Maybe people complaining have used different types of pliers and the results were bad (the key point is that these pliers have parallel gripping surfaces), but these are great. You can get a lot of torque on the fastener and the jaws don't chew them up or anything. Would buy again.

[@inspector1794]

That was very interesting. Perhaps adding disks to the bearings to increase their diameter would increase the sensitivity but, either way seems to work well as they are. As others have said, it might be interesting to see what small weights added to a wheel would do might be able to see the sensitivity difference. Another great vid, thanks for sharing.

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

It's 45 years since I used a surface grinder, but I think the one I used had some form of dynamic balance checker that you could use to manage vibrations caused by rocking imbalances that were not detectable on static balancers. We were told taught to dress a new wheel after an initial static balance, then dress it again and rebalance it. That grinder also had very nice air bearings. Once I get my new CNC machine installed, I need a grinder!

[@JohannSwart_JWS]

Hi James. My experiments with this same thing ended up with large, skinny brass wheels (85 mm dia, 2.5 mm thick), with tiny bearings from hard drives press fit into their centres. The bearings had their grease covers removed, and they were then flushed out with acetone, then alcohol, and air-hose dried. The wheels have a blunt knife edge (like a butter knife). This all resulted in extrememly low friction and inertia, which worked well for me. The wheels can also be weight relieved on the lathe if required, which will help for inertia. Thumbs up!

[@ferrumignis]

Did you use brass just for ease of machining? Seems like a harder material (or at least a harder rim) would be preferred. Great idea for the bearings! I was envisaging a similar setup using small ball bearings for model RC cars which are quite inexpensive but ones from a hard drive will be in a different league in terms of precision and overall quality.

[@JohannSwart_JWS]

@@ferrumignis Yes, and its all I had. But since this is such a low dynamics application, it really does not matter. Aluminium wuold have been fine as well, I guess, but not wood, for example.

[@JohannSwart_JWS]

@@ferrumignis And yes, those HD bearings are amazing. I used high quality Hitachi drives' bearings. Others may vary, such as Seagate, which I find to be terrible quality overall. Dunno.

[@madaxe79]

I used to static-balance conveyor pulleys every day, and the most accurate way, by far, is to balance on knife-edges... usually the client spec. Will have a torque rating, you use a torque wrench on the shaft and measure the torque it takes to make it move off it’s balanced position...

[@Bob_Jones_]

nice pair of balancers.. I really like the finish on the ceramic bearing one

[@isaacray8530]

What a difference! And a relatively simple solution.

[@tfinmoraes]

Hi James, long time viewer here! What an improvement from the last time! Thank you for the content. i'd like to share an idea. As an electronic engineer, I couldn't help thinking that, you if want an objective measurement to compare both approaches, perhaps you could add an accelerometer to the system. You could mount the accelerometer to the surface grinder and set a baseline without the wheel, so you can characterize the spectrum of the machine itself, and the compare that against the measurent with the wheel installed. If you choose to do so, proper mounting makes a ton of a difference. I believe stud mount would be ideal, but I am not sure you'd like to punch a hole in your surface grinder. If you want to go stud mounted, perpendicularity, flatness and proper torque are the critical aspects. You can also go with adhesive mounting, where lower thickness is better, and hard adhesives are better than soft ones. Also, the placement is crucial, let me know if this whole thing makes sense to you, maybe we can discuss it, other people could also chime in and we can contribute to a plan before you go!

[@JGnLAU8OAWF6]

Could also use accelerometer with some position sensor to balance it in place

[@garysgarage101]

Loved the build James. You’ve had a surface grinder for a very short time and your grinding results are amazing. Very inspiring.

[@DigiLab360]

Outstanding work. My 3D Printer is now my favorite tool of all time. Nice to see you using it.

[@jefferywright4204]

The balance you optimized is single plane in the static condition. Additional improvement may be possible using 2 plane dynamic balance that measures the overturning moment generated by the rotating masses of the stone and mounting arbor system that has significant width with potential imbalance side to side that is not detectable in one plane in the static condition.

[@Humbulla93]

I like your funny words, magic man

[@jefferywright4204]

@@Humbulla93 Which words and why?

[@Humbulla93]

@@jefferywright4204 it was meant as a Joke (meme) as i have absolutely No clue what you're talking about due to me Not having an engineers Background. I'm a labo technician so all those physics related stuff is mistery to me

[@kristinamckeown5106]

Really enjoyed the comparison. Thanks for sharing the adventure!

[@e.scottdaugherty8291]

As an electrician I know of nothing more "permanent" than a temporary solution that works.

[@loydsa]

or duct tape 🙂

[@HexenzirkelZuluhed]

Great results! The fit you get from your printer makes me envious. And if you continue to use the Knipex pliers I predict the following will happen: you'll get more comments about it. That's it.

[@bigmuz_pilot]

When I did my fitter machinist training they always made us mount the wheel, rough balance, mount the wheel and dress it, then do a final balance. It seemed to work well but I felt like it was always more about the suitability for the wheel for the particular job rather than the last tenth of a gram of balance that made the difference.

[@chrisnorth3458]

Its kind of unnecessary balancing wheels this size. biggest problem is poor fitment on the arbor or operators not running the spindle long enough with the coolant off after grinding to allow the wheels to dry out

[@bigmuz_pilot]

@Chris North unnecessary is Mr cloughs middle name haha

[@cooperised]

​@@chrisnorth3458 And yet balancing this wheel better clearly helped...

[@blahorgaslisk7763]

@@cooperised The difference in vibrations is really telling. And it would also tell if dressing the wheel would introduce any new problem with the balance. So I'd say that as long as the vibrations are absent or minimal you would not need to rebalance after dressing the wheel. It will be interesting to see if knocking the edge of the wheel will improve the surface even more or if he's reached the point of diminishing returns where the improvement is no longer significant enough to really make a noticeable difference.

[@rok1475]

@@blahorgaslisk7763 the only way to find out if rebalancing after dressing makes any difference is to do it, grind part of the surface and examine the results under at least 10x magnification. The difference may or may not be worth the extra effort, but at least you would make an informed decision.

[@johnmccanntruth]

Nice project. I enjoyed the F360 tutorial…

[@ferrumignis]

Me too, as a relatively new user of F360 I really appreciate an overview of the steps used to create parts.

[@michielnreen1922]

Truly nice work!! Are you sure that the two rails are 100% parallel? Otherwise it might influence sensitivity? Maybe you glue them on, upside down on a surface plate. Or grind them down on the surface grinder (i did)

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

I use my Knipex parallel-jaw pliers when I don't want to mar the corners of flats on a bar on delicate parts. I keep the faces dressed and clean. Way better than average crescent wrenches/spanners when you can't use a high-end socket

[@OmarMekkawy]

I enjoy watching your videos. James, just keep going on your new videos.

[@csours]

Forbidden Life Saver Candies

[@Clough42]

Very crunchy.

[@barabolak]

I like the one with bearings! Looks super cool

[@Clough42]

I do, too. It was really fun to make.

[@ferrumignis]

@@Clough42 I'm super impressed with the dimensional precision you achived with the X1.

[@twistedupright8697]

I have used all 3 types and for quick accurate balancing the rocking beam style is best. My experience is that by also dressing the sides of the wheel and then rebalancing is good for surface finish.

[@Pest789]

Did you have to design anything specific to ensure the clamps on the rail balancer wouldn't cause the rails to bow upwards in the center?

[@mumblbeebee6546]

Your channel is simply KZbin Gold - thank you! Watching 3D printing is the modern equivalent of watching disk defrag, I guess ;)

[@kiwishamoo6494]

Nicely done - that CF filament looks great with the stainless hardware

[@Clough42]

I agree. I went to my industrial hardware supplier and sourced stainless specifically for that reason.

[@chrisburbank6484]

Not sure if this had been commented on but we were taught to always mount the wheel with the arrow or "balance "stamp at the top as that was the position that it was mounted at the factory when first dressed and sized . its amazing how much just a few thou clearance between the wheel arbor and the hole in the wheel as far as the balance

[@tomeyssen9674]

I gotta have one! Beautiful bearing model.

[@saulkokkinoskennedy]

A small high frequency vibrating motor mounted on the ball bearing balancing frame will help a lot. I think it will make it more accurate than the rail system. Between testings on the ball bearing system I would suggest spinning it to avoid the spindle sitting on the same location on the bearings. Edit: vibration will help overcome static friction

[@VladekR]

Magnetic or air jets levitation?

[@saulkokkinoskennedy]

@@VladekR air jets is an interesting idea. I bet you could 3d print the whole thing including the air bushing and internal channels. Screw an air valve into the frame, plug in your air hose, and slowly open the valve until the shaft lifts up

[@davidcashin9194]

Nice grind James and you will not damage anything with the Knipex pilers as I have the same and the parallel jaws are the dux guts.

[@stacy6014]

So when do you plan to print some of the rail stands to sell? I may be interested in buying one depending on the price. I don't have a 3D printer to make one. Thanks for the videos. Joe

[@hopelessnerd6677]

Beautiful! You make it look easy.

[@lwilton]

Gee, now all you need is an air bearing balancer and a magnetic levitation balancer! 🙂

[@loydsa]

Oh heck now I have to make both just because....

[@criggie]

Serious question - what about sparks flying into the shop vac? Do you need a spark quench bucket in the line before the vaccuum ?

[@vivianmorresey]

Nice process and really enjoy the extra info with using Fusion360, 3D printing and engineering components...as it reflects the real tasks in a project like this. I to was impressed with the 3D printing accuracy considering your comment about reducing the clearances you added to ensure fitment. I just wanted to confirm that you used Bambu labs own brand of HTN-CF. Was that the PAHT-CF they list?...and yes, I second or third the comments about getting your view on the bambu (no rhyme intended).I'm thinking about adding an extra 3D printer and am a Prusa fan/user already...but that Bambu features set for the price is becoming a real attractant. Thx

[@samrodian919]

What an excellent video James! Your practical explanation of your method of designing in cad was so easy to follow. I've never had any experience of cad design at all, and you make it look simple. But I bet it isn't lol if I were to make a balancer, I'd go for the rail type because I believe the cost of the rod would be far less than the cost of those ceramic bearings, which I believe are very expensive. All in all the finish you have achieved is very good and it shows the necessity of getting the wheels finely balanced as possible, even on a brand new machine. Looking at your extraction system, I think you could improve it by printing a small scoop to go under the guard, which would influence the air flow. And make the scoop just above the wheel diameter, ( obviously you would have to allow enough for the dressing if the wheel and make it to the smallest diameter you would consider using after numerous re dressing or shaping the periphery)

[@GENcELL2014]

Grinds my gears seeing non constrained cad in vids, glad to see you fully constrain sketches 😅

[@Clough42]

I do my best. Choosing the right things to constrain and the right things to dimension is an art form.

[@unpopular_mechanics]

This is exactly what I wanted to see after watching the last video.

[@carlhitchon1009]

Nice. Suggest you print a cover for the bearing balancer to keep dust out when not in use.

[@alan-sk7ky]

One thing to keep in mind James, Nylon is hygroscopic and with added fibres more so, It might be worth your time to keep a close eye on the dimensional stability of your assemblies as they age and take up moisture and move about. In a previous working life I was a technical injection moulder mostly setting and monitoring machines working Nylon with glass reinforcement. Now it maybe that printing does not induce as much pre stressing into the part as injection but, is much less homogeneous with more micro voids for moisture absorption. Anyway good work James and will you progress into iron versions? 🙂

[@ferrumignis]

The majority of 3D printing polymers are hygroscopic.

[@blahorgaslisk7763]

The bearing balancer shouldn't really be that badly affected by something like this. But the rail balancer might. However, shouldn't the adjustment screws be able to make up for that shift in dimensions? I mean you have to readjust that rail balancer every time you use it anyway, right?

[@ferrumignis]

@@blahorgaslisk7763 The screws don't help if the rails don't remain parallel in the Z axis.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Great episode that demonstrated total ownage of engineering, physics, materials, and cantankerous commenters!

[@tadamb1]

Very cool. Question: Does grinding wheel wear over the course of an operation ever become an issue in high-precision applications? Like, if you had a decently large part would the wheel be smaller by an amount that would cause a problem when you got to the end of the part?

[@Clough42]

Yes, the wheel wears. Typically you're taking passes much narrower than the width of the wheel, so in the ideal case, you could dress before the final pass, and the wheel would not wear completely across the face during the final sizing pass.

[@olivercrandell3375]

Did you happen to check the parallelism of the tops of the two rods on the rod balancer after they were installed? If not, that might be a good thing to do to ensure a better tool. I would think that you could have some inaccuracy between the heights of the 3d printed towers which would cause parallelism problems between the two bars. It might be small, but would cause errors.

[@first_namelast_name4923]

Came here to say exactly that. There is no way those two bars are perfectly level with each other. It would be enough for just a tiny speck of gust to fall on one end of V-grove and one end would be a tiny bit higher or lower than the other three. This could be easily measured with a height gauge, indicator on a stand and a granite surface. I am pretty sure James has all of those in his shop.

[@ferrumignis]

Glad someone pointed this out. Even if you somehow got it close to perfect during construction the PLA (and most other 3D thermplaatics) is hydroscopic and will shift dimensionally as it absorbs water. I don't think plastic is a good choice material for a rail balancer.

[@preddy09]

I have a weird idea to greatly reduce the friction for your bearing balancer. You could use two strong lifting magnets on both sides of the shaft to reduce the force on the ceramic bearings. The magnets would be pulling the shaft from above, obviously without touching. I don't suspect any magnetization of the shaft would be an issue. But in theory, force resting on the bearings could be almost zero.

[@troy_neilson]

Another great video. Thanks from Australia!

[@frijoli9579]

Cool video. Be careful with the shop vac on a grinder. I got one to smolder doing this. If you use a surface with less contact are, IE: radiused or knife edges, on the outer races you'll likely get very similar performance to the bar balancer.

[@phoolb7326]

James, I'm quite amazed that the balancer could detect the weight of the blue ink that was used to draw the arrow. ;-)

[@juansolo1617]

I had an idea for a high speed rotating assembly balancer but I haven't tried to make it yet. If the bearing was surrounded by rubber and was allowed to deflect while the assembly is spinning you should be able to detect the imbalance with a dial indicator sensor fed into an arduino. It would take a bit of programming but it's a solid idea.

[@fgbhrl4907]

Is there a way to quantify the sensitivity? I guess it would have units of N*m? I guess on a balanced wheel, you could add x grams to the edge of the wheel at 90degrees. If the wheel rotates, reduce and try again, until it no longer detects a weight. That number in N*m would be its sensitivity.

[@kylerandall9141]

Maybe 3d print some caps for the new bearing balancer to keep dust out of those bearings while it's not in use?

[@Clough42]

Oh, that's not a bad idea.

[@FCleff]

Congratulations on your balancers! Thanks for sharing. Question(s): Are the two parallel shafts really parallel to each other? Are they really coplanar too? Additionally, is the balancing shaft really true? Is the printed nut for the balancing shaft balanced? Does the shaft clamping system introduce humps or hollows into the shafts? I'm only asking because I know that my 3D printer can not work to anywhere near that kind of precision. LOL.......I know, maybe I should get a MUCH better printer.

[@colingale]

In R/c we often prefer to use magnetic levitation style balancers , the shaft has the end ground to sharp point and they float inside a magnetic disc with a small divot in it for the needle tips

[@ginawhite1503]

My thought is that the bar style balancer has more work because you should probably level it each time you use it. And also I wonder if the bare shaft is an adequate way to balance it (I.e. there is going to be some friction even in that system and the shaft has to have enough weight to overcome it). On the bearing balancer, I wonder about build up of gunk over time in the bearings causing them to have more friction. Maybe I’m overthinking all of this though. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and share both approaches!

[@besenyeim]

I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter in practice, but can't error in parallelism cause loss of sensitivity in the rail balancer? When not both of them horizontal.

[@cs233]

Just wondering if you had considered creating an air bearing for the balancer? I don’t know much about them, other than it’s my understanding that they are about as low friction as you are ever going to get! Seems like it might be an interesting project with some real technical challenge.

[@Runoratsu]

Did you give the rod based balancer some way to adjust for the rods not being square, as in to adjust one rod being in another angle relative to true horizontal than the other? I might have missed that, but if not, could that not influence things?

[@bejga93]

I would like to give a tip on balancing with the three weights, or at least tell you how I do it. Moving them upwards, guessing the right position is is going to work well most of the time. But this way its hard to undo your last change if it was a bad one, or to determine if there is an error in the wheel, the fit on the arbor or the level of the bar or etc. I learned to start by looking for the high spot without the weights, mark it and put the first weight right at it. Then I use the internal beaks of the caliper (slider locked) in the groove pushed against the side of the locked weight to set the other two weights in the same distance to the first one at the high spot. They should be a little closer to each other than to the high spot. The rest is easy, high spot to the side and open or close the calipers a little to move the two weights a little in the same way, depending on which direction the wheel rolls of course. Sorry for the long text if this is nothing new, but since there is an automatic wheel balancer at my workshop, all this experience and practice is useless. Also totally not bragging about the wheel balancer.

[@robinward3003]

Larger rollers with 1/16" flat, hardened & ground edges would be ideal, but hardened and tempered back to just barely machinable hardness would work, too. You don't want the thin edge too soft, as it will pick up damage too fast, and, the bigger the rollers, the less friction, gives the arbor better leverage against friction. It turns with less effort, making it more sensitive.

[@michaellehmann280]

Great video James. Looking forward to the review on Bambu 3d printer.

[@megeezer69]

Excellent video. You make 3D printer look very easy to accomplish. The wheel balancer is excellent

[@mrsnrub3712]

Did your wheel hubs come with your grinder or did you purchase them separately? I am having some trouble finding the style able to be balanced

[@kempy666999]

Excellent 3D prints 👍 Do you think that larger diameter ceramic bearings would work even better?

[@schulzcbs]

Aren't you worried about shop fire when vacuuming sparks? I pull all dust from my belt grinder and surface grinder through a water chamber/filter since I caught a fire when grinding titanium. The water filter is calibrated in such a way that almost no water leaks into my shop vac - the vac does not care about water but less water is nicer for cleanup.

[@JesusvonNazaret]

huge improvement

[@greentom]

Will you do a review of the Bambu Labs printer?

[@blauesKopftuch]

Knipex plier wrenches can deform the nut. Used the 180mm version to tighten an M8 stainless nut onto an M8 bolt ... wasn't able to get it back off again, took a closer look and realized i squezed it oval.

[@avejst]

great project impressive finish. thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀

[@philippkleinheider7892]

I don't know if you will make another video about wheel balancing, but if you want to quantify the difference in vibration balancing makes, you could try using a vibrometer app on your phone.

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Too funny that the ppl in the comments are acting like you're using old Channel Lock pliers or something. 🤣🤣 I don't have any problem, they're smooth jaw parallel jawed pliers so by all means have at it, it's not going to hurt it.👌 I'm extremely surprised by the ceramic bearings, at first I thought maybe there might be an issue bc of the amount of surface area but they worked great!! If you could figure out a cost effective way to manufacture them, I'm sure you'd be able to sell quite a few of these. I know I'd buy one! Great video as always James, thank you for uploading. 👍👍

[@juliejones8785]

One thing I have always been curious about. Why are the bearings staggered on the balancer? Would they work as well if they were inline? And, based on a comment you made in the last video, would larger bearings work better? Would you also compare the ceramics to a steel 602 with all the grease clean out and some very light machine oil added? That is how we used to reduce friction in skate bearings for racing.

[@Clough42]

If the bearings are in-line, they will have to be further apart, and the shaft will sit lower between them, increasing the normal force on the bearings, hence rolling resistance.

[@georgel5308]

Great job. Just wondering did u balance the arbors too? Great work as usual amazing content

[@flikflak24]

Well use the bearing for adjusting and the straight bar for sanity checking

[@KavorkaDesigns]

What themp/settings did you use for the 3D print? The finish is very nice!

[@jimmy2times]

How do you move the camera (pan/zoom) in Fusion 360 like that? Feels like you're moving the object in your hands.

[@konzetsu6068]

What’s the Abec rating of those ceramic bearings? And did you consider putting the large metal discs on them in your hunt for fidelity?

[@akren2482]

Congrats on the dialed in grinder!

[@4dirt2racer0]

well yea the rail balancers definitely going to b the more accurate one, its got less interacting surfaces to introduce friction, i really like that style not only because its more accurate but also because it doesnt have any moving parts to wear out. here a genuine question, y would u use or prefer the roller style over the rail??

[@Applesupnorth]

You have ALLLLL the cool tools :D You sir are an expert DIY'er 😍😍😍

[@russ-techindustries]

Could you do a review of the Bambu X-1?

[@VagiPeti]

Dear James, thanks for the awesome content as always. Can you please give a link for that 3D printer you were using in this video? Thanks in advance.

[@sundarAKintelart]

Very nice. The ceramic bearings part used can be improved by using disc (carbide cutting) used in pipe cutters.(or something like that). I think I will reduce friction between the arbor and the flat bearings used. For the flat rod rail used in the second attempt, again instead of rod a triangular piece of HSS or such would be better, in my opinion. Good work. Lot to learn from you.

[@erueka6]

Woah that 3d modeling software was trippy as hell when its on a 2d plane I've never seen something like that in such detail why is this not a more well known prevalent software for neophyte or average Windows users.

[@jhawker2895]

Thanks for sharing .... Stay Safe and Well ...

[@miszcz310]

Did you consider air bearings (probably with vacuum pretensioning). Even something as low tech as Ben was showing?

[@johnnylong8821]

Great idea James, I'm going to try a similar design, any idea how long it takes to print a part that size?