Thanks for this information. I just purchased a Flea Bay Mitutoyo, and (fingers crossed), I believe I bought the genuine article. Based on most of the clues from this video, at least the photos of what the seller was selling, appear to be real. I will do a follow up once I get my caliper. This type of of video is great, and I hope roots out the deceit of these counterfeits.

P.S., being you know a lot about what to look for when asking for a firmware update, would you be willing to e-mail me your updated firmware to make this better for me. I am curious if they fix firmware accordingly and everyone may not get the same results!! Please and thank you!! DEv

I just bought one of these printers!! Thank you for your amazing review!! +1 DEv

If you use Fusion 360 I highly recommend the Gridfinity Plugin, makes life so much easier to design your bases to whatever size with the option to account for 'filler'. Give it a shot, very handy!

I think you need to upgrade your printer. Perhaps a Bambu or PRUSA.

I tried a sample print in an X1 that my company has; spaghetti on the first try… but fine after that

I added the 30 dollar x1 heated chamber mod.. and used the Bambu asa-cf. super flat, but i was mindful of those chamber temps. No parts i printed were smaller than 9 flat inches squared and fairly thick with high gyroid infill

I am sure you already plan to address this in a future video, but just in case... Since your DRO is located such that it is quite easy to touch with the hand (as opposed to being located well above waist height), you might want to make it a bit harder to zero an axis position. Right now it looks like a single touch is all it takes to zero an axis, and since it is waist-high, it would be pretty easy to accidentally brush the touchscreen in some way and wipe out a bunch of alignment work. Maybe an additional physical button that could be hit with your thumb while hitting the touchscreen with another finger? As always, thanks for the high quality work that gives all of us a target to build to.

Thanks, I've been considering buying my first printer. My only experience has been with an Ender 3 that my daughter has. A frustrating contraption! I'm retired and a hobby machinist.

Great stuff and thanks for sharing and wow, that motor is spendy….

I think I was just your 160.000 sub :D Awesome content and incredibly detailed research. This is what the community needs!

The diference is not in the accuracy in thousands, it's in the quality of the product. I had one, like from the HF, suddenly and completely randomly would give me an error by 6-7 millimeters or even above centimeter sometimes. Rest of the time works just well. But once every 10-15 measurements it will do something crazy. The bad thing is you can't always tell do the some sizes and hard to eyeballing it. Ofc I trashed it. It's the worst tool you can have, because you don't know what and when to expect from it.

Abs are easily glued, easily welded.

I feel this rubbery surface might wear out faster than PEI, just a hunch tho, no evidence, only just got it

Ask ChatGPT general programming questions -- get general programming answers, and sometimes the answers are correct? No thanks, I'll stick with Google. "AI" is a monumental boondoggle.

16:32 AKA minimum lot charge applies 😉

I wanna try this so bad but... I don't know how to dry it. I'm gonna buy an air fryer I guess.

Sometimes... brute force is the answer! Muahahahahaha

Any reason why you didn't go with something like: if (voltage > 1 && voltage < 3 ) { return 0; } else if (voltage > 3 && voltage < 5) { return 1; } else if (voltage > 5 && voltage < 7 ) { return 2; } else if (voltage > 7 && voltage < 9 ) { return 3; } else { return Optional<int>();} Just curious on your thought process is all.

Hit zero a bunch of times.

Thanks for the in-depth review. I'll be putting the $1400 towards an additional XIC I think.

THANK YOU FOR THE QUALITY OF THE REVIEW. I can use your review for my engineering choices!

Im I the only one in the planet who still uses a glass build plate?😂😂😂 Im thinking in getting a different one. Any recomendations?

My only attempt at a delta was an Anycubic Predator. It was huge, but I never was able to dial in acceptable prints.

Even what printing PC on my p1s, if I max the bed temp and nozzle temp, the motors overheat (or what I think is happening) and I get a horrible grinding sound. Pausing and letting it cool fixes that, but there is major step loss. Any suggestions?

How do you have such smooth view movements in Fusion? Whenever you rotate your view around the sketch/body its so consistent. I can't find how to do that, I just use the mouse and middle click currently.

I had forgotten Autodesk bought Cadsoft, took me half the video wondering why that pcb designer looked so much like Eagle before realizing it was integrated into fusion. Great content as usual.

Hey, I'm sorry to bother you, but I am going to set up your els design on my M1099 lathe, I've already done the vfd, and I have 3-phase power in my shop so it's not the same one you used and I put a 3hp 3 phase motor on it, and now I have plenty of power and low-speed torque, just want to add the els, is there somewhere to find an accurate list of parts needed? I have looked online at your site, and on your eBay, I have several of the necessary items in my cart such as this interface, servo motor, etc, but would be very helpful to have an accurate accounting of what is needed to complete the project... Is there any chance you could point me in the right direction?

I agree with so many of the commenters; great educational content and teaching style! I was looking for this information and I just happened upon your channel; I subscribed and will look forward to more content.

Printable heatshrink tubing!? I didn't even know that existed. Must. have. some.

Click and drag for tangent is definitely not documented anywhere easy to see in the software. Amazing, that saves a lot of clicking

I cannot get bambu petg basic to stick to this at all.

fantastic review, thanks

I've been printing PETG ever since it first came out (I used print ABS :-( ). PETG 80c bed all day. I never use glue or have adhesion issues.

Love the dry humor. I've tried all the different shipping options from jl and even the slowest (cheapest) option still has them delivered to Nova Scotia within 10 business days or less.

Great interresting video... just a though: I don't like the simple pinheaders, except for prototyping. However, for a permanent installation i switch do JST connectors, since they hold in place for sure and are available in different sizes. Screw terminals feel like a waste of many at this place... great video, great commenters, with kind regards from Germany

Great review, thanks! I have to mention, I think they may have taken your advice. I got one a few weeks ago and haven't had a single issue with it other than the expected noise. I also noticed they've updated the software twice since I've had it. I got it with 2.0, then 2.01, and now 2.02, though it still reads 2.0 in the software. I'm glad expert users like you get into great detail, since it appears FLSUN may in fact be listening.

Wow, the amount of fault checking you designed into that thing made me think you were designing something for NASA.

With that kind of filament, you’ve really gotta dry it. Like… seriously dry it. I’d recommend buying a spool dryer, and trying the Bambu brand version of the same material. Quality of brands is also huge when it comes to carbon fiber stuff, and I’ve tried all the brands (even the one you did), and bambu worked so damn well. But maybe just drying would solve a lot of your issues. For anyone else coming to this video (just realized how old it was), when you’re making 3D printed parts for mechanical applications, bite the bullet and do a much higher infill so the parts have more strength. The part in this video has ~30 layers, which is nothing, so consider your layer heights as well. Good parts take a long time to print, but that’s sort of the point. That applies to all types of product manufacturing.

15:10 why not tapered edges?

Sir, I appreciate clear and informative video on the subject. Very well done! One question: factory Clear path motor curve is at 75 VCD. What voltage were you testing it at? If I missed it I apologize

Love efficiency and loved these tips thank you!

PCB Board rage! :P

i had my x1c for awhile now and still found this review very useful.

Video begins at 2:53

James, you may say you've not done Fusion PCB before but your video on designing a PCB as an ELS control faceplate has been my go-to for how to persuade Fusion to start a PCB design from a surface in 3D model. I'd say if you did a video on exactly what order to jump through the hoops in and a little depth on how to design your own components when you can't find anything suitable in the libraries, you'd have a winner. PCB from JLC (and no doubt the others) is so reasonably priced for small boards these days, it's more work (and money) to not do it. With slower shipping, the price comes down to a couple of bucks for that too...and the quality is leaps and bounds of what I could contemplate trying to hack together myself.

I am prepared to become a Tech Priest and have to chant catechism to the LLM machine spirit instead of writing code directly.

I'm relatively new to your channel and have been watching old videos to catch up. The videos suddenly switch from your PM940 to PM935 without explanation. Is there a video I missed?

in order to check concentricity you should use a dowel pin instead of a screw

love the swastika quilt!