A BETTER Way To Shoot In Manual (Street Photography)

[@GeorgeRazoare]

I’m not a photographer, I don’t have time, working 6 days a week, but when I go outdoor with my son, or when I see something from my car, I stop and I take a snap for instagram with my iPhone. Few years ago, I started to watch youtubers teaching us how to make good photos. After a while I noticed I lose my time because most of the big names are playing the same song, ending showing off how good they are. Except you. Your videos are straight to the point, clear information, nothing going bla bla. Thank You for that. George.

[@jonwood4709]

Totally agree with you George

[@m4rcin847]

Finally an honest human being. Most of iPhone users calling themselves a master photographers while automatics doing everythyng for them. Thats not how it works. Cheers dude.

Exactly what I think. I've just discovered Roman's channel, and this is what I like. Humble, yet very informative. New subscriber.

[@rockstardonut777]

Definitely agree with you, use high ISO with high shutter speed. If the noise is a real issue, it can typically be fixed in post. Focus and shutter speed can’t.

[@JanneRanta]

How I setup my fuji is that I use aperture priority and auto-iso. Fuji has a great auto-iso setting. Being able to set the lowest shutter speed and max iso basically makes it good for any type of photography. In addition I then have my exposure compensation on my right hand thumb wheel. I'd say this is far superior mode than manual for control and speed.

[@redders6600]

This is exactly what I came to the comments to say. The auto iso settings are excellent.

[@nathanday01]

You’re a great KZbinr. I love that you came from contribution and waited until the end to ask for likes and subscriptions. By the time I made it there I had already done both and that’s the way it should work. We should not hear anymore about the algorithm and smashing like buttons.

[@kazimustakim1648]

The triangle - ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, most photographers, make it confusing to understand, but man, you straight-forwardly solved almost everything. Very true. I have started doing this with my fuji xt3 recently. I wasn't sure if I was doing right or wrong, as you have experience, you made it very clear that I can follow these rules and not mess up with almost everything with the settings while taking a shot. Thanks for this video. I really needed it as a confirmation I am not doing wrong. I always shoot in manual since the beginning, but thousands of times, I have messed it up and missed shots...

[@3vvvvv3]

Thank you so much. I’ve been watching many of your videos, and in every single one you’ve made me understand the basics way more than I could in class.

[@Versillio]

I think I have learnt more from watching three of your videos than from a month of daily KZbin-versity!! Thank you

[@BenLovell80]

The only 'pros' that really ALWAYS shoot in manual are studio photographers or others using flash. I would say aperture priority or shutter priority are used by most others depending on whether they care more about controlling depth of field or motion blur respectively. Auto ISO with cameras with decent high ISO performance has made this a far easier way to shoot. The Fuji user interface, with manual physical controls for shutter speed, aperture and ISO, make shooting manual far simpler than most other systems.

[@BrunoChalifour]

Not really. As Roman mentions it when the lighting conditions do not change or vary much or are difficult, manual mode is in fact faster and more accurate (if the photographer is capable of accurate metering). Still, many pros have used film and manual cameras for years and are still using their digital cameras in manual mode most of the time, myself included. As for Fuji simplicity for use in manual mode, I have used Fuji, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Leica and Hasselblad in manual mode I have not found anyone superior to any other. Cameras with an Electronic Viewfinder are a nice plus though (all the above-mentioned brand have that in their bag now).

[@alicksasylum]

Coming from a film background that was the main reason I went with Fuji. I like using manual dials because I am a tactile person. Touch screens on cameras have there uses and I will sometimes engage on my XT20.

[@jimmylee7422]

I shoot manual with everything, just a control freak i think

[@magnuschristensson9980]

There are some other pros as well, that depending on what camera and shooting style as well

[@BrunoChalifour]

@@magnuschristensson9980 Absolurely.

[@truebro77]

Honestly the detail you go into mate here without overwhelming the most basic of photographer is astounding. I watch you because you're a fuji guy, but I love the way you talk as well and explain things. You shot very similarly to the way I do. Keep up the good work bud. Think you might be quite close to me too I'm in Gloucestershire!

[@evanstheframe]

Subscribed a couple of weeks ago after finding your channel. Love the fact you give your real world views on how to do things. This video is amazing, I struggle trying to get the right exposure triangle fiddling with all three parameters. This method makes so much sense and gives you freedom to take the shot, also if you know your ss dial you don’t even need to look, it’s just a click or so away from what you’re looking for. Great advice, many thanks Roman.

[@MichaelVolkhardt]

Danke!

[@snapsbyfox]

Thank you!!!

[@Dayhaus]

This is an awesome video thank you, I’ve been getting frustrated trying to get the shot and adjusting all 3 settings to get the iso as low as possible and I would always miss the shot.. by taking two out of the equation by using the shutter speed makes so much sense! Thank you!

[@stephcharz9082]

I always using manual lens whether Voigtlander,Nikkor and new TTArtisan, don't be worried about manual focus, modern bodies can really help you out and it is a great experience. Be sure to enable focus peaking on high, that way the camera will highlight what's in focus.

[@caskraker]

This video is about exposure, not focussing.

[@ohchristonastick]

This has to be one of the most informative and helpful tutorials I've seen. Thank you for this, and keep up the good work.

[@wildinourways]

I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to making these videos. Thank you so much. I’m new to Fuji and to street photography. It’s so reassuring and comforting to hear you talk about both! Thank you again for producing these very helpful videos.

[@samlllkks]

Great tips indeed, especially the final one on changing exposure according to ambient light.

[@charlescarlson1290]

Thanks for the useful guide and tips. It highlights some of the great features of Fuji cameras.

[@steveconnors3233]

Thanks heaps Roman I love your work It’s always very enlightening and of course entertaining Great advice and especially liked the video as I have an XT-4 which I love 😊

[@stasweitze]

This was very useful. You gave some practical information and advices I was allways missing. The method you presented helps me a lot and gives me a good starting point to practice and learn more. Thank you!

[@hurleygreen927]

GREAT VIDEO! I'm a veteran shooting street photography in Manual Mode with my Nikon D750 DSLR and lately been shooting with manual focus lenses as a change of pace: Thanks for this info! HG- Chicago

[@kittyclerico18]

Wow. This really simplifies something that I have found mystifying! Thanks so much.

[@MikeWoffy]

I’m a person that has dabbled in photography for many years, but just recently started trying to get better. These videos from Roman have been great for me, giving me both inspiration and real world technical know-how. If you’re ever in Southern California and doing workshops, I’d really like to join in. Thanks!

[@reverton77]

Thanks man... Your videos are very easy to understand. Help me a lot.

[@christopherwelch5568]

In 1991 I took a photography class in college as an elective and it changed my life, in the sense that I learned how to use a manual SLR camera, develop film and make prints. I borrowed my Dad's Minolta SRT101. I ruined film, made every rookie mistake you could make. But my takeaway was how the camera worked and how to correctly expose negatives. Thanks to learning it old school, I can use a modern digital camera exactly the same way... because all of those old school features come on new cameras still. I say that to say this- if you are serious about photography it is worth your time to learn how to shoot film on an old SLR. A film camera on ebay is a thousand dollars cheaper than a new DSLR and it will make you an expert.

[@BrunoChalifour]

Yes and then you have to pay for film and processing, or better... learn buy and learn darkroom. It is a different ball-game. One can be serious and stick with digital without any problem these days there many advantages (except the original price of equipment although these days the difference is getting smaller and you get better lenses. Yesterday's lens resolution (for film) is far under today's lenses' resolution which are designed for high sensor resolution. Owning or even using tool whatever the field does not suddenly make anyone into an expert. Work does be it with film or digital.

[@geofftonks8960]

Brilliant mate, another top-grade informative and useful post. Jeez, you're good

[@alala86]

Hi Roman! Really enjoyed the video, thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge.

[@markbarkntrunk102]

Brilliant Roman, thanks for the information it has helped me no end

[@erichstocker8358]

I come from the old manual world where there was no automation either exposure or focus. I appreciate these new automated additions to photography. When automated exposure was added, I started using aperture priority and I still do. I can set exposure compensation if necessary. I look to ensure that the shutter speed is one that is appropriate. However, there are times when I switch to manual. What is important what mode you use (as you pointed out). What is important is that you understand what is being done. Of course, I still shoot with a lot of film cameras that don't have meters built in (Leica M4-P, Contax IIa) I enjoy these but I don't shoot my digital cameras as it they only had the features of 1950s/70s film cameras. That would be silly

[@xhawathy5311]

Thank you very much, really helpful. Not only your system but also your inspirational photos. 👍

[@charliejg]

I kind of do what you've explained here so well. The thing that gets me sometimes is that fact that my only Fuji AF lens is currently the 18-55mm which has a variable aperture over the focal length range. So, sometimes I am not quick enough to catch that aperture change and mess up a shot. Thanks again for a great instructional video!

[@f1remandg]

Fantastic! What a lesson to learn, preparation and observation of the place moment and time! It’s full marks from me and I think that’s a full house! DG New Forest UK

[@markhallada7437]

Being relatively new to this discipline I found this advice very helpful.

[@suthidah.6363]

Like how you explained with the scenario makes it easier to understand. I've got my first camera less than a week ago. Now trying to understand the manual settings. Been waiting few videos but still a bit confused. Your video makes me understand clearly also sounds very practical. I just need to go out there a try now. Thank you 🙏🏽 pls keep up the good work

[@Jyotiprakash3]

Even though I know almost everything about settings on my camera, still got to learn how to not miss a shot. Great videos. Subbed for lifetime. Love From India ❤️

[@stuartsilverman3797]

Excellent lesson. One alternative would be to use auto ISO with an 800 limit. That would take ISO off the table and keep the noise relatively under control. Then, only two settings to consider unless light is really dim. Roman, keep up the fine work.

[@cheesewheel]

Thats the way I've got mine set up. Ive got 3 different auto ISO ranges that I'll use depending on the light at the time

[@juliencamard8139]

Thanks for this video! Even after years of photography, I still often find myself unsure of what setting to change when I have to react quickly, although I know what those settings do. Having a quick way to react is a great idea! And setting up the camera as soon as the light changes is a great piece of advice, thanks!

[@ambientjapan4k]

I really resonate with your presentation style and would like to learn with you directly one day inshallah. Meanwhile, I've watched this video several times and going to give it a go. Thank you, you're a generous teacher

[@blutac318]

An excellent way of explaining this topic. I am looking forward to more ideas of your way of doing things. Thanks for this, Roman, it makes it a lot easier to remember!

[@jeremysemanhyia8456]

Great stuff as always Roman! Have no idea why I laughed so hard when you said “profusely”

[@OzzyCzech]

Thanks for your videos, they are the best in class!

[@elvenpath7]

Your videos are priceless ! Thank you !

[@Thrice_Greatest]

Excellent video Roman!

[@antonionunesdossantos5882]

great and clear explanation thank you

[@micahgabriel2072]

Great advise and thank you for the video on this subject.

[@fungkaka1886]

Thanks for your sharing from Hong Kong here !

[@matthewper35]

Just picked up a used XT-4. Thanks for the video! Will try this tip out today in Central Park :)

[@subrotomitra]

Thank you, Roman .. very astute and mature presentation.

[@steffen3112]

Thanks - very important advises you are giving here. Most useable :)

[@BIMLounge]

Thanks for the thorough review of manual settings. I don't like setting my ISO during the day and I'm always in A priority with AutoISO minimum shutter of 250 with exposure comp. That really makes me focus on the scene and enjoy photography. All manual in low light of course.

[@lpark8]

This makes sense. “High” ISO worries are overblown in my limited experience. Another great, practical video - thanks 😎

[@alexbadeu]

This is really good advice, thank you for explaining your approach, I think it is very intuitive.

[@abchappell01]

This is a wonderful presentation. Thank you so much.

[@carlslack7706]

on the x100v i find it quickest to leave the camera in aperture priority with shutter speed and iso in auto. If the camera is struggling to meter the scene properly to expose for the highlights i'll quickly just dial the exposure comp up or down slightly to suit the scene

[@ElusiveFrame]

Great points Roman! I had numerous issues when I was in manual and light changed quickly. The arrogance of manual mode got me. 😖 Now I try to keep an open mind and aperture priority rocks. After all, cameras are also there to work for you. 🤞

[@mydemon]

Fantastic video as always. Thank you!

[@erichstocker8358]

You are dead correct on the ISO issue. Noise really is not an issue there are some many tools for denoising in post.

[@miro_scheib]

Nice video. I shot in manual for several yesrs but now i mostly shoot in aputure priority. But only with minimum and maximum set shutter speeds and minimum and maximum iso. Only if i need motion blur or have a fast scene where i want to freeze motion i will change to manual (or for astro or on my manual lenses) The rest i dial in with aputurecorrecting dial and watch to the histogram.:)🔥 so i can expose for highlights too..

[@kevinhumphries763]

Great informative video. Thanks for your honesty 👍

[@joeltunnah]

Cartier-Bresson shot at 1/125 all the time, and opened or closed the aperture based on the light. It’s all about eliminating extra things to think about, same with shooting (mainly) one focal length.

[@ally3728]

Great advice best I've heard ..

[@alexanderrecchia2327]

I use either manual and aperture priority the first one when I take a sort of meditation photography and I want to focus on the action to take photos

[@ClaudePatrao]

Since I am old and my muscle memory is not so good I have set my manual focus ring to change the ISO. This way I have only to turn the manual focus ring to get the the proper exposure after setting the shutter speed and aperture initially. I tried auto ISO but the scene gets dark when in bright light and vice versa and one has to lock the exposure and then compose. Now I compose first and then turn the manual focus ring ever so slightly to set the exposure. This method has given me many keepers.

[@shlomoeshet8525]

I find all of your advices very useful and not just for street photography. Personally, I am going to focus more on shutter speed which unfortunately too often turns out to be too low. Great video! Thanks.

[@snapsbyfox]

Cheers!

[@daveericson8447]

When I first got my Fuji I learnt using manual exposure. I have used aperture priority but always seem to go back to manual with auto iso. I will try these settings as I like the flexibility the higher iso gives you .

[@jamessepulveda189]

Great info. Never thought about this. What about having iso on auto?

[@Yizzlesquasm]

This is very useful. The best I've seen. Thanks mate 😎

[@DanielSuran]

So extremely well explained! You have true teaching skills 👌🏼👌🏼 Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@snapsbyfox]

Cheers!

[@cmmates885]

With regards to iso i have a compact point and shoot camera with a sensor smaller than a normal apsc crop sensor (and use a film camera) and even at iso 800 the noise/grain is barely noticable. You are always better off having a higher iso to gain leverage of shutter speed. A blurry photo is worse than a grainy photo 9 out of 10 times. Also manual focus using zone focusing is ideal for most fast paced photography situations.

[@nachogeekts]

This is why I like to use manual with auto iso. It means I can adjust the shutter and aperture to my preferred setting, and then let the camera choose whatever iso it needs. I have the max iso capped at 1600 as after this point my camera introduces too much grain.

[@ChapitZulkefli]

Thank you. Great tips.

[@miguelgomes6849]

Happy to see some Lisbon footage 😁 Keep the good work my friend 👍

[@mariobnc1995]

I always use manual exposure on my Fuji films I set a fixed aperture to a safety time based on what I have to photograph and then I use the ISO fair to compensate the exposure. And on the Fuji xt5 it's fine to do this since the dials are softer

[@MichaelVolkhardt]

Thank you. I always tried to keep shutter fixed at, say, 500 and control the exposure through ISO only (for the ease of turning only one dial). Always had problems with this approach. Had to raise ISO in dark areas to 6400, and ISO 160 was not low enough in very bright areas. So I ended up turning two dials most of the time (ISO and shutter). Your Method works much better. No problem with ISO 500 as default.

[@arcanics1971]

I use an older camera and so the ISO is noiser earlier- and of course I'm a different photographer. So the settings I use are quite different. But the logic is exactly the same and so I agree pretty much with everything here. I learned the Sunny 16 method first, and that's a handy guide if you're baffled, but I had to abandon it eventually for a similar system to the one stated (but as said slightly different due to camera difference and my own style.)

[@sumandebroy8968]

Very very useful tips. Thanks a lot 👍

[@jeffolson4731]

I shoot mostly wildlife now. I use a lot of auto ISO while I control the aperture and shutter speed. Most newer cameras can go to a surprisingly high ISO before it really becomes an issue. I don't mind some noise and if it is too much I can try to clean it up in post.

[@drwaldemarsmith]

I do this too for street photography. In Auto ISO the camera will a good job of always choosing the lowest ISO that gives you proper exposure given your other settings. This alllows me to concnetrate on shutter speed and aperture to get the look I want. I have had good luck using Topaz DeNoise AI to clean up very grainy shots. It works like magic. So I don't worry about high ISO any more.

[@leomarcostasilva-us3mb]

amazing video !

[@etkayapar6058]

Was that erenjam at 7:21 :D

[@snapsbyfox]

yeah!

[@SonofChurchill]

Jump Two year old video. Solid Video thanks getting stuck here 12:17 changing all setting and not know what to do. Need put into practice not get mad or flusted

[@mikefoster6018]

Great stuff. For for me, with my X-T4, I always have aperture on manual. For the rest if there's plenty of light I'll usually let Auto ISO handle it - with my hopping between my 1, 2 lr 3 Auto ISO categories depending on how broadly fast I want the shutter speed to be. I have my front control dial set to Exposure Compensation that I have areally instant way to adjust exposure. Auto ISO is great at keeping ISO as low as possible and then speeding up the shutter speed once that ISO bottoms-out, which is exactly what I'd do anyway in full manual so I let the computer handle it. But, when the light gets lower, it makes more sense to take over the shutter speed manually. Or, sometimes, in low light I'll just set the ISO to something I can just about tolerate and see if that makes the shutter speed fast enough. Stuff like that.

[@necroon1]

Nice Video man!

[@zekirami]

Good vedio I like it. iam going to try that .yeas I sometimes try to change all setting then no time I do auto

[@jacobcarandang8618]

Setting a minimum shutter speed when you’re in aperture priority is also good so you can set it to like 1/50 or 1/100 to get most your shots sharp. Before that I was kind of hesitant letting the camera choose shutter speed for me.

[@ajphelps16]

This right here 👍🏿. Minimum shutter and a good aperture has given me the not out of my camera

[@BIMLounge]

That's it. Of course you will have to raise that shutter speed on certain scenes if you want to avoid motion blur, but the principle is the way to go and so liberating when I first learned it.

[@BrunoChalifour]

??? by definition if you are in Aperture priority, the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed not you. If your camera allows that (which I have not seen yet), hay, there's the rub as you may end up not being able to take your photograph unless you are also in automatic ISO mode. I must be missing something here.

[@BIMLounge]

@@BrunoChalifour Yes, aperture priority but with "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed". You control the aperture, the camera controls ISO and SS, but by setting a minimum (to avoid motion blur) the camera will prioritize the ISO adjustment over the shutter speed. Most modern cameras have that or there are workarounds. In that mode if still underexposed it will have to hit your max ISO setting (say 6400, 8000, etc...) before it starts going lower than the minimum shutter speed. At that point it's probably night time so I would just go manual so you can dial in the ISO yourself and save you some stops of noise. Otherwise during the day the A-AISO-MINSS is perfect for street: set the camera to F8, min SS at 250, forget about the camera and just focus on subjects.

[@Welshmanshots]

6:25 ah so anywhere in wales, the weather here is so backwards at times, it will be sunny for a hour in the morning and then lashing down rain in the afternoon I struggle to use manual in these conditions its why now I try and just use Av. The same now goes for video I don't bother changing the ISO everytime I leave the house or a dark room I just let it sit at Auto, I wish there was more people like you on youtube Roman I've been fooled by the pros to always use manual in any condition which I'm glad I learned this is not the case early in my career.

[@TheTravellersTale2021]

very informative... i am sold :)

[@mattg8888]

Good advice. Thank you. Basically all of the time I use my aperture ring, half of the time I will use the shutter speed dial and for ISO I mostly use auto ISO and just limit that to either 1600, 3200 or 6400 depending on the light...I should really change that behavior. Keep up the good work.

[@matthewbacon9646]

Lots of great insights, thank you. Digital is such a sticky wicket, too many choices plus the ability to shoot a huge amount of photos at no added cost and I'm suddenly wading through 60 photos of the same damn duck. For me, understanding workflow and planning a methodology is about being able to focus on composition and (hopefully) take less photos.

[@alkhalifaz]

Brilliant !

[@karimlahlou132]

So many good advice mate. I m from Paris. Hope to meet you one day. Gonna follow you on Twitter

[@HM.archive]

Great work,thanks for share,keep going.

[@wilhelmw3455]

Auto ISO can also very useful in many situations depending on what maximum ISO you find acceptable.

[@alexjones4419]

Some cameras you can set an auto ISO rang

[@FlatWaterFilms]

Being a landscape photographer, I use aperture priority with auto ISO. I keep exposure one stop under and 'lock' it. Sometimes I change ISO manually and exposure. Using mostly 24-104mm lens, I tend to try shoot between 80 & 200. Got a few great water rapid shots today using 3 stops under with a tripod. Using the 5D IV and 'L' lens of course. The combo allows me some pretty high ISO's with still nice pictures if needed, like last week in a cave shooting with limited light and too lazy to remove the polarizing filter.. lol

[@veselinvasilev9362]

Thanks!

[@scotthansenmtbt4110]

I’ve learned to bump up my iso during the day, and my photos I feel have improved….I like iso 800 during the day, shooting wildflowers….

[@NL0Gwenster]

Good video, the only thing you forgot to take into account is that highlight centric metering modes exist (tho not on Fuji`s , which you seem to shoot) . So that helps you use either A or S priority in those high contrast scenes where you want the highlight parts metered correctly. That's been a life-saving metering mode ever since Nikon introduced it in late 2014. And it's sad that my X100V doesn't have it.

[@VangelisMatosMedina]

Interesting mode from Nikon, but it is easy to get away with A or S just using negative exposure compensation.

[@professionalpotato4764]

I keep my ISO mostly at 640 for a few reasons. DR400% preserves the highlights far better than base ISO, and it just makes life easier. Slight noise in the shadows doesn't bother me. Sometimes I use aperture priority with DR400 setting and just use the exposure comp dial. Just gotta be careful not to over/underexpose too much. I find there's only about +/- 1 stop of leeway when using the DR setting, especially with film simulation recipes.

[@BrunoChalifour]

That is the point you got right: "Just gotta be careful not to over/underexpose too much." Now saying that 640 ISO preserve highlights BETTER than base ISO is a hard tale to believe.

[@professionalpotato4764]

@@BrunoChalifour Just check out Pal2tech's video on it. DR400 preserves highlights far better than 160. Even in raw files. It's not without compromises, since the sensor is reading and storing dual gain output, so the shadows will be noisier. The way I see it, I'm just trading the shadow dynamic range to be used in the highlights. Edit: It also makes sense if you think about how F-log has a base of 640 iso. The highest possible dynamic range is actually not at base, but at 640.

[@professionalpotato4764]

@@BrunoChalifour kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJvNdJRtaL2rqbs

[@BrunoChalifour]

@@professionalpotato4764 DR400 cannot invent information that the sensor (and its raw format) did not see. It is simply impossible. If you want to trade the shadows for the highlights all it takes is to shift the exposure toward the highlights. All that DR400 does is "false" HDR (artificially lightening the shadows at the risk of exposing noise, and there is more noise at 640 iso than 160 that is why I choose 160 over 640 if the lighting conditions allow it). There is strictly no extension of DR (it is scientifically impossible unless, and this would also be artificial, artificial intelligence on the camera processor invented the missing information. In any case we are not speaking then of DR but of an image created by artificial intelligence from the raw image. Remember that 640 iso is just the information provided by the 160 iso sensor once boosted which does increase noise (especially visible in the shadows)... it is just a fact.

[@professionalpotato4764]

@@BrunoChalifour It doesn't invent or create information. It simply reads the highlights at 160 and shadows at 640. Similar to how the Canon C70 works. That's why I said it's a compromise. You won't get perfectly clean images. But does it have better highlight retention? Yes. Noise at 640 is perfectly treatable with noise reduction too. Yes you lose detail. Again, compromises. I don't do large prints, so the minor detail loss means nothing to me. Did you watch the video I linked?

[@iaincphotography6051]

All good stuff and using a mix and match for various situations. Though I must admit to using auto ISO base to 800 250th & 5.6 both of which can be altered quickly as you said.

[@karlratcliff1205]

Aperture priorit mode with auto iso and st the min shutter speed. All you need

[@havanejp]

May I ask at which focal length the shots at 6:55 were taken?

[@nicolasburgeff4022]

Great informative video as always, I used to shoot a lot in manual but I switched to AP, as to diminish the number of variables to change in case I had to be quick. Now I feel like I over-rely on it a tad too much, which I'm traing to change as to ascertain that I don't settle on it out of easiness/lazyness.

[@Boyerobert]

Thanks for the video ;-) 🇨🇦, liked and subscribed 😊