A Fairly Complicated Modern Babbitt Bearing Pour - Rush Job!

[@MrChevelle83]

i sent that piece of bar stock!!! im glad to see it going to good use!!!

[@IsZomg]

That's a chonky bar very nice :)

[@chrismumford9206]

Was that induction hardened?

[@surlyogre1476]

On behalf of Keith and his customer(s); Thank you!

[@RinoaL]

That's cool to see how stuff like that has a life beyond when you give it to someone else.

[@levitated-pit]

a worthy donation.

[@GooseGosselin]

Thank you for sharing the failures along with the successes, love your work.

[@soldier715]

Nice work Keith, i appreciate you showed the original failure

[@donaldrhyne9417]

I like when you show the issues you run into

[@chrisquinn3751]

Tough Keith! I guess that one of life's laws is that things are most likely to go wrong when we are in a hurry. Well recovered though!

[@normmcrae1140]

When I saw how THIN that bearing shell was going to be - I PANICKED..... But I figured that the lathe would rip it out, not the mill! Glad you made it work! GREAT SOLUTION!

[@Kodas-Dad]

Some days you are the pigeon Some days you are the statue 😮 You handled it well......

[@pokerpig9069]

Now I want to find an excuse to pour my own babbitt! Really great to see a babbitt that failed. Was curious about their “stickiness”. Also, nice to see the resurrected train project coming back. I need to follow another mega project!

[@artshaw6962]

You made it clear; precision machining takes time. Rush jobs can easily turn unto failure.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Looks good. Bad bond just not a good thing. Well done on the redo. Thanks for sharing Keith.

[@CHICOB4261]

Wow! Keith this is what I love about your channel “the Good, the Bad & the Ugly” I wish you were taking on an apprentice I would apply (if I were 30 or 40 years younger 😂) thank you for the interesting content!

[@assessor1276]

Nice work Keith - you made a challenging job look easy!

[@strandedpirate6346]

Vintage Machinery - the babbitt bearing channel

[@chemcody5119]

Nicely done Keith.

[@davidhudson5452]

Good fix better than new

[@johncloar1692]

Nice job Keith.

[@walterplummer3808]

Good morning keith! Have a great week!

[@richardsurber8226]

Thanks for a fine video of the challenges in the shop

[@simonsallen]

I almost cried when I saw the Babbitt come loose, realising that you had to return to square one. I'm so sorry for you, but I know you will succeed.

[@user-oi8tg3dq7t]

Good morning Keith and greetings from the oldest town in Texas, Nacogdoches. Another interesting video and nice work.

[@stevenslater2669]

When that babbitt came loose, I flashed to Clark at Windy Hill Foundry and how he must feel after spending hours setting up a mold, only to have the casting look like a half-melted chocolate bar. Dump it out and start over…that’s the casting - and now we see it’s also the Babbitt-pouring - business.

[@talltimberswoodshop7552]

Well done, Keith!

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing.👍

[@mylesschlicher965]

Great work - a wonderful learning experience !

[@henrikjorgensen1614]

Exellent work Mr Babbit

[@shirleyraymond9703]

Better now than new ! Great work. Keep it going?

[@richardtaylor7199]

Great job.

[@PaulStaples-h2f]

Awsome video, paying attention to detail really does pay off, amazing to see you do the job properly. Great video Keith, have a great day.

[@alanchamberlin2384]

Thank you

[@mr.b2232]

Good job.👍😎

[@Randysshop]

If your going to have a problem it is still better to have it before it leaves the shop. That way you can fix it. IMO Thanks Keith

[@bobuncle6962]

You have just confirmed my brother's comment that human hands are the dumbest part of the body. Good thing you had gloves on when you tried to stop the first part from falling. I can not tell you how many times I have confirmed his statement as well. Great recovery

[@ddblairco]

great job Keith

[@llrustyengines]

Thanks for a fine video thank you for the interesting content!

[@melshea2276]

Happy Monday Keith!😊⚙️🛠🚂👍👍👍👍✌️

[@tomswindler64]

Very nice 😎😎😎👍👍👍

[@piperjohn_3]

From my armchair it seems It's like whoever engineered that modern part wasn't familiar with or just didn't want to use the age old tried and true babbitt grip engineering we have seen in your vintage machines. Those slick grooves and the direction they were cut in was a head scratcher. Your drilled dimples are probably bulletproof.

[@cemx86]

At 30:39 - Keith lets go of the handle of his big Wilton vice and it goes CLUNK". Doesn't seem like much of a big deal, but Wilton vices always come with thick rubber washers at either end of their heavy steel handles. Why? First, to prevent damage to the screw end and handle over time. Second, to prevent getting your finger pinched as the end of the heavy handle slams down on the screw end. Easy to retrofit with washers you can find at the hardware store. Enjoy, John

[@petegraham1458]

Good fix sorry you had to do it twice!

[@stumccabe]

Thanks for the video. That was a surprising failure and I couldn't tell whether the Babbitt hadn't bonded to the tin or the tin hadn't bonded to the steel - my guess is the tin not bonding with the steel because bonding a tin alloy to tin is always going to work! Maybe that particular grade of steel requires a different flux than the flux contained in Tintite.

[@timf6916]

Nice, now you know

[@tomjewett5839]

Kinda makes you wonder why they wouldn't drill those holes in every Babbitt casting .

[@hectorpascal]

Makes you wonder how the manufacturer was able to get the babbitt to stick to the steel originally! 😄

[@stevem268]

it seems funny to me to see a boring head spinning, i use mine in the tailstock of my wood lathe to bore out precise holes with the workpiece in the headstock chuck!

[@jimfiles3307]

Good morning Keith, I was concerned pouring onto existing foreign babbit, probably impregnated with oils. It’s a good thing that it failed now, so you can work your magic and do a perfect job. I enjoyed how you machined an oil galley for the oil to spread out. Good thinking. Happy Holidays to you and your family.

[@studiochefson3573]

👏

[@Ervan-l9v]

A second pair of hands would have been useful on this project. Resourceful job.

[@steveNCB7754]

Although the main bearing bore looking 'shiny' when you got it (pre-bored and 'threaded'), I wonder how much time had elapsed since they did it? Presumably, if an oxide layer was already forming on that steel bore, that might have compromised the tinning adhesion?

[@samuraidriver4x4]

The flux would eat any oxidation away no problem. The tin definitely bonded otherwise it would have just formed droplets and sagged to the bottom.

[@Dalewatterson-xz1gq]

The shell is very similar to an automotive crankshaft or large diesel engine insert bearing, should work fine as long as the oil pressure is high enough.

[@jimrobcoyle]

Hail the algorithm! 😊 #TallyHo

[@shoutykat]

That babbitt shows some wild colours as you pour it. Does it have bismuth or something as part of the alloy?

[@CothranMike]

More than likely it is a part of the alloy, might even have some Antimony. Wonderful colors even after it cools.

[@geneard639]

My Grandfather who threw wrenches at Steam Engines in the Navy brought home a book on how to fix them, my Uncle had it and one boring day I read it.... So the reason why you thread and tin steel and bronze is Babbitt/Bearing Lead will not directly adhere to it, not ever, the reason why you COARSE thread the bearing surface is because Babbitt/Bearing Lead will NOT ever adhere to the steel or bronze surface. Even tinned and with coarse threaded a steel or bronze surface the Babbitt/Bearing Lead can PEEL.... gosh golly gee.... I always wondered about those warnings and here we are.... This is the reason why the Navy moved away from Babbitt/Bearing Lead bearings and went to other bearing types. I think you need to ask what happened to the last Bearing.... I got a feeling it peeled out and ate the shaft. This is why the Navy moved hard away from material based bearing materials and to mechanical bearings.... only to find decades later some applications benefit from material based bearings like the elastomeric bearings in helicopter rotor heads.

[@kevinkohler5140]

Could you put the mandrel and the damning material in and then put the assembly in the oven?

[@Ervan-l9v]

Sorry about the failure but you still prevailed.

[@brettbuck7362]

Does there need to be some shims between the halves when you are boring it? Or does this application require it to be located exactly so you can’t tolerate shims?

[@gregorymacneil2836]

What is the brand of tinning compound you used? Great video

[@stumccabe]

Tintite.

[@CothranMike]

Nathan Trotter brand tintite

[@CothranMike]

@stumccabe that's like saying Kleenex, a common name for a lots of brands

[@SaschaFerda]

Wouldn't it make sense to turn the barrier ring with the alignment step as part of the mandrel on one end and only make the other side as a separate ring?

[@filepz629]

❤️‍🔥

[@leslietroyer452]

Can you comment on when to use a 3 point mic vs a two point. Working at a job where we did center less grinding we used 3 point mics for measuring the OD of the product. I see you use 2 point mics for OD and 3 point mics for ID. Does turning always produce even lobed parts - the grinder always (almost) gave parts with an odd number of lobes.

[@hobbiesrus]

There are two general ways to get the internal diameter. Calipers are "machine approximate" and are used when the measurement is not that critical or you are roughing down a part to get an idea of where you are. Internal diameters could be done two-point with calipers or with telescoping gages. Abom79 is a big fan of telescoping gages. The other, less common as they are much more expensive, are bore micrometers. Notice Keith had to switch to a different bore gage as he ran out of measurement. That was probably at least $500 in bore micrometers right there. Both telescoping gages and bore micrometers can give good results. It is just what you have, what you use or practice with, and what you are comfortable using.

[@leslietroyer452]

I think your missing the thrust of the question. Due to wear or the nature of the tool, machines often don’t cut perfectly round - drill & centerless grinders can produce shapes that are three, five…odd number of sides, that measure perfectly “round” using two point measuring devices (think wankel rotors). I would think even a reamed hole might inherit the lobes of a drilled hole. I’ve never heard a discussion on what mics should be used on various machines.

[@johndean1911]

Does babbitt contract as it cools?

[@nelsonvaliant1776]

Yes it contracts at a greater rate than the steel backing causing a shear at the interface. One way to change this is to remove from mandrels when hot and peen the babbit to expand it against the contraction. This was done to achieve a 100% bond on turbine bearings.

[@bman8030]

I'm wondering why it wasn't bored with shims for wear?

[@bigun447]

Now you can babbit 38 chevrolet rods.. 😉

[@texxasal]

Just as a simple request sir. Would it be possible to stabilize the audio to a single volume? It is a rather drastic difference between when the machines are running and when they are not. Thanks.

[@W4BIN]

Perhaps the inner surfaces needed to be acid etched before tinning? Ron W4BIN

[@steveparker8723]

Stuff happens.

[@charleskyler1928]

Bummer about the lift, next time we know.

[@P61guy61]

Excellent video. Learned something new. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@januszdelondres]

that made me jump, mind your hands.

[@dcrahn]

Tin it the proper way, tried and true old school.

[@phillipyannone3195]

Just before you tinned the bearing housings I was thinking to myself. Oooops I didn’t see you degrease the housings. 😢

[@robertlevine2152]

Keith, Did the customer discuss what kind of machine the bearing was used? The thickness of the bearing shell compared to the thickness of the babbit was fairly large. The temperatures of the shell, tin, and babbit might have contributed and their cooling rates might be a factor in the failure. Leaving the bearing in the vise or directly on the steel table, without insulation and a blanket may also have been an issue. How the bearing was cooled was not shown. Along the same lines, you gave the mandrel a good whack with a hammer to release it. Could this have loosened the bearing? In the past, you put on a nice coat of carbon using the torch. Is there a reason you didn't coat the mandrel with these bearings? Another question I would ask your customer is, "Is this the correct bearing material?" Depending on age the original bearing might have been a lead as opposed to a tin babbit. Bob

[@alfredneumann4692]

The title of the video appears here in German since some weeks. How can i switch it back into your original english version? Also your text under the video appears in German. I don't like this unwanted translations.

[@DarrellCatt]

always the rush jobs that give a guy issues ..lol..

[@danhei]

I know it is KZbin policy not to tell your viewers the total cost of a job you are working on. Since machinist work is far out of my life experience can you at least tell us how a shop would price out a job. Some jobs I have watched you complete, such as this one, does the customer get to keep the mandrill, set up can take a long time how do you charge for that time. Material cost is what material cost is. I retired from the leather business, you lay out a hide and pattern and cut it, easy. Cheers from 🇨🇦

[@dandavidson9543]

Not to complain....but, you tend to drag our tool after your cuts. I have been a long time viewer and have noticed it many times. Bad habit in my opinion. Watch all of your vids...good stuff!

[@fredmoult583]

I’m sure only when he’s going to take a measurement to set dro/base line prior to final cuts, so as not to disturb cross slide position.

[@cannon440]

No shims? You always use shims.

[@paulmorrow5905]

has this channel changed to the Babbit pour channel..