A Look Inside the Motor of a Singer Model 301A

[@johnrusso947]

Andy, I wanted to shed some light on the motor bearings. They are actually a powdered bronze metal bearing. They are made by mixing metal powers together and compressing it into a briquette. The briquette is then sintered in a furnace. The sintering process molecularly bonds the powered metal blend together into a hardened part. The great thing about powdered metal bearings is that you can blend different metal powders together for good wear resistance characteristics. The other great thing is that there are tiny microscopic voids created by the metal powder particles when they are compacted together. The bearings are dipped into oil and the oil is drawn up into the bearing voids. When the bearing heats up, the oil is drawn towards the surface and lubricates the shaft. When it cools the oil is drawn back in. These are sometimes called oilless bearings because they don’t need to be lubricated often. I worked for Pitney Bowes in the Postage Meter manufacturing we used a lot of these bronze bearings. We actually had a Powdered Metal department that made all sorts of bearings and odd shaped parts that were easy to form with powder instead of machining them. When you have it apart for cleaning, it’s probably best not to use alcohol the clean these as you’ll pull some of the oil out. You should probably just clean with an oiled q-tip. This will clean any residue from the bearing and let it drink in some oil. Then you can just wipe off any excess oil so it doesn’t migrate into the motor. Hope this helps explain something about these bearings. I very much enjoy your videos. Always a great job. Keep up the great work.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you, John. You sure made my day! I researched powdered metal, bronze bearings and so forth. So interesting. I was told I could put a little grease in the lower bearing, but cleaning with oil and leaving an oil residue would seem the way to go. The top motor bearing is the one that causes the most problems. I can actually buy a new bearing for $3 but have been told I would need a strong hydraulic press to remove the old and insert the new. An OSMG from Singer told me to put one or two drops of 30WT oil on top of the top bearing and it would "Re-lubricate", but only a couple of small drops to avoid the oil running down on the motor when heated. I've never done it, but maybe I'll try. I have a 404 motor that I cleaned with Krud Kutter the first time I used it. Cleaned up no nice, but really "screamed" when I put it back it the machine. YIKES! Luckily, I bought a half dozen motors a few years back so I just swapped the motor out. Now I want to look through storage for the old motor and try to lubricate the top bearing, haha. You are very kind to share this knowledge with us. I'll pin your comment to the top and if I ever film a motor again I will explain what you have shared. Thanks for watching my channel, John. Take Care.

[@darylyoungman5227]

John R., and Andy- At this point I can only confirm Mr. Russo's great comment. I worked with the "oilless" powdered metal bearings exactly like he describes when I was at Sangamo Electric many years ago. As soon as you extracted the bearing from the 301A motor housing on your video I recognized what you were working with. Thanks to both of you for this good work, and now I will get back to mi 301A!

[@carolemagnusson5044]

Andy, thank you for this video; I learned new information about motors, and I have an experience I thought you might like to know. The motor from my 404 was making an uncomfortable growling noise. I put 2 drops of 30 weight motor oil in the upper bearing even though that bearing sounded smooth. I put in new carbons, I used a seater stick to seat the carbons-nothing worked to get rid of the growling noise. Then after watching this video, I put 1-2 small drops of Triflow oil in the groove in the side of the bronze bearing held by the retainer spring that you show in this video. I did not take the motor apart, just took the motor out the machine and removed the two cover caps to the carbons area. I used a toothpick and carefully put small drops of oil in that groove. It cleared up the noise! I’m going to run the machine to work that oil in. So perhaps occasionally this bearing does need to be oiled. I used oil (not grease) on the recommendation of your viewer comment, John Russo, so thanks to him, too.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you for the confirmation of John's recommendation. I just replied to a viewer with a similar growling noise on his 500A and he had done all the things you mentioned. I explained about John's comment and suggested he try it and hope he writes back with good news. I think he will be doing so after I read this comment about your success. I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience, Carole.

[@mjremy2605]

I just took mine apart, the 301 motor to clean it on a machine I bought. 14:07 That spring clip bottom of housing that looks like a bow, must be pressed down and turned anti clockwise. You can use the outside slot to do it which is safer. That clip flies out when tension released and you lose it. Wear goggles. The 301 oils itself from that silver wick sticking out near the motor label. Inside the wick housing a woolen wick 3/16" thick and very short. The wick sits in the silver tube and you drop oil into the hole from outside. The oil travels up the wick to the porous bearing, and the felt pad behind the bearing and into the motor or where it is needed. Clever mechanism, and such perfect mechanics.

[@andytubesewing1953]

You do have some wonderful ideas and solutions. I look forward o when you start making videos to share them with the YT community.

[@nancyland5238]

Just finished removing, dissembling and clean out my 301's motor. I'm so glad that I watched your video and saw John Russo's comment. The entire inside on my motor was covered in a thick film of greasy carbon dust. Took several hours with Alcohol and Q-tips to get all the grime out. I took the lower bearing out. Yes that retainer spring that holds the bearing in place was a chore to remove for sure, but I got it out. Dug the little felt pad out and gave it a thorough wash with hot water and dawn dish soap, rinsed it out several times to make sure the detergent was all gone, and left it to dry completely. I had to replace the wick in the oil tube and was going to put grease into it, as everyone in my FB groups said that I have to use grease. But I thought that the hole on the side of that tube instead of on the top of it sent up red flags for me. So I searched thru so many videos. Then I happened upon this one. And read John's comment. So I just put the motor back together almost, (still waiting for new brushes to arrive.) With a new wick and I put a couple of drops of oil on the felt pad, rubbed one drop onto the bearing itself, and a few drops on the wick. I did not take the upper bearing out as I didn't have the tools needed for that job. The gear spun easily, but just for a better safe than sorry moment, I added the 2 drops of 30 weight oil to it. I spun the gear around many times to help it work it's way in, and realized how much easier it was to spin that gear right away. Thank you so much for your videos. You take the time to make sure people understand what you are doing and I am ever so grateful for that. And BTW, my motor looks brand new inside and out.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I really enjoyed reading your comment, Nancy. Nicely done to do a full rehab like that on your motor. I hope you found it rewarding like I did. You obviously know the value of your 301 so good on you for keeping it serviceable. I met John thru my YT channel and we started corresponding thru email. I found out he is a mechanical engineer and worked for years on office equipment. I asked him if he would tackle replacing the top bearing on a motor I had that was so bad it barely turned and sounded like a rock crusher. I shipped it to him and he developed a method and replaced that bearing with a high-quality brand new one. It's the quietest motor I've ever had or heard. He explained about that bottom bearing and how he refurbished and cleaned it. I'll be forever grated to him for sharing his knowledge. Thanks so much for watching my channel and happy sewing.

[@nancyland5238]

@@andytubesewing1953 I used sewing machine oil in that oil tube and on the wick and felt pad. Was that correct? Or should I have used the 30 weight oil for that? I just saw another video that used the 30 weight oil for that bearing. Do I have to take it back apart and change that?

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@nancyland5238 I guess it depends on how much oil you used. When oil gets on the motor it will slow it down noticeably and can cause some smoke. Maybe you can just run the machine in bobbin winder mode. Start slowly and let it warm up, then increase speed. If it is going to "throw" the oil it will do it at high speed. If the motor runs OK then use the machine normally. If it ever starts slowing down or shows some smoke then that's the time you know it needs cleaning. If you wonder about oil on the motor you can watch this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIOah6B3eJuYrLc

[@thereseclemens4461]

Hi again. Thanks for responding to my story of rescuing a 301a “Nikki”. She’s running but I think she’s sluggish and I might need to check out her motor. It smells like you might imagine after decades of neglect and disuse. Nikki has this motor with that wick/pin! So I guess she’s a 1951 model! Love your channel and videos! Thanks🪡🧵

[@andytubesewing1953]

Be sure to read the comments below from John Russo and Carole Magnusson (if you haven't already 😊) for some great information. Here is a multi-part series for restoring that motor; kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ and a newer way to clean the commutator and speed up the motor is shown in this video; kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqvUZaesbdahb5Y Only the best for Nikki, right? Take care.

[@thereseclemens4461]

@@andytubesewing1953 Awesome! Thanks! I hadn't gotten to hese yet.

[@rhondamercado7527]

My 301A must have been made in the later time as I don’t see the lubricating piece on it. I was worried about that until I found this video today…of course thank you yet again Andy!

[@andytubesewing1953]

As far as I know, it was only the first year that the 301 was made that the motor had a silver lubrication to by the second year. The motor had eliminated the need for that. Some machines made in the second year did have a motor from the first year as there was a few left over. So I have seen second year 301 A's with a motor that has a silver lube tube to your delving pretty deep into the 301. I hope you're enjoying it. It's really a superb machine. Thanks for your nice comment

[@Ndnative3431]

Thank you Andy. I panicked when I went into the bottom of my machine to lubricate the motor only to find it didn’t have the tube like it shows in the operator manual. Thought it was lost and would need to be replaced but mine must be of the type that doesn’t have one. Shwew! Good to know!

[@andytubesewing1953]

OK, so no worries now and I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for commenting and stop by again when you can. Take Care.

[@daffycatbennett3555]

A very interesting video! Thanks for explaining everything so clearly!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome. I was actually disappointed that the tube is just stuck on the side of the housing like that with a short wick inside. No wonder they dropped it with later 301A and the 401 class and beyond.

[@GregoryLongs]

Inside the cover, I can see the bottom of the pins that hold the information plate. Probably using a small needle punch from underneath would remove the pins.

[@vanessataylor3961]

I have one 301 with a bit of a growl when it runs. I have a 404 with the same growl. Have not located it yet… someone in conversation said it might be a bearing. Is that in the motor. I haven’t taken the motors apart but going to try.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Well, the motor has two shaft bearings and the top one is a ball-bearing style bearing. If it is worn out it will growl. There are several bearings on the machine for the different shafts and both of the models you mention have steel gears that can growl if they have no grease (not oil, no oil on gears.) An easy way to test the top bearing on those PA-style motors is to put the machine in bobbin winding mode by turning the silver knob on the handwheel to the left while holding the handwheel from turning. Now when you run the motor it only turns the handwheel and none of the shafts on the machine. You can remove the top cover and see the top of the motor shaft with the pinion gear and handwheel gear. If you hear that growl with the motor running now it is most likely the top bearing of that motor. You can see the bearing in the end of the aluminum tube of the motor housing and the shaft will stick up right trough the center of that bearing. It is a tough bearing to replace but some have done it. A couple of videos on KZbin discuss it and probably online forums. I test it by putting just 2 drops of old fashion motor oil, like 30W or 40W on the bearing and run the motor slowly if the growling dissipates or disappears for a while you know it is a bad bearing. For the bearings on the shafts, there are several oil porta and the shafts (and entire machine) should be properly oiled and the steel gears greased. If that motor was quiet and you turn the knob back to make the machine sew and hear the growls you know it is bearings or gears in the machine and not the motor. Here is a playlist that shows how to work on the motor (not the bearing) kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ Here are a couple of playlists for working on model 301 kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO Here is a playlist for working on model 401 kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO Those 3 playlists contain 55 videos for the machines and should include oiling and greasing info and most of the parts.

[@sarahwilson1265]

Andy - I have recently rully restored a Singer 301, but it made a ‘groaning’ noise when I first got it and even with a replaced wormgear bearing, it continues to make that groaning noise - although, it doesn’t make that noise when the motor is run with the machine on its back. Having the motor out, I have discovered that the noise comes from a heavy vibration of the cylider of the commutator rubbing against the inside of the coil. It turns out, there is quite a bit of play in the shaft of the motor. Can you think of a way to remedy this?

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm puzzled why it does not groan when laid on its back, but the only similar problem I had with this type of PA motor was when the motor shaft was bent. I've no idea how it got bent, but the motor had definitely been worked on before. You don't mention if the "play" is more side-to-side or up and down. Did you notice the play before you replaced the upper motor bearing? The shaft rides on two bearings, of course. The upper one you evidently replaced, and the ball-shaped one in the base of the motor housing that the motor shaft sits in. I feel it would take an awful lot of wear on that lower bearing to have much play in it though. I had a couple of first-year 301 motors that had a wool disc at the bottom, like an oil wick. They (the wool pads) were in good shape but I wondered if the wool wore down or bunched up if it would affect the spinning of the shaft. Honestly, I can only say the motor shaft may be bent on your motor. That's all I can think of to cause what you are experiencing.

[@colleensims2531]

Andy, do you have a video showing how to rewire a potted motor for a Singer 201 series (US) machine? I need to do this and did not see one in your videos...Thanks in advance for your time and expertise

[@andytubesewing1953]

Sorry, Colleen. I don't work on the black Singer machines, but others do: kzbin.info/door/xnZmVDo4dXlfMltkuxZo2Q Thanks for asking and good luck.

[@fenrislegacy]

This evening I've removed the motor of my 301 and partly disassembled it. I haven't removed the clip & the bearing but I'm pretty sure there is a piece of black felt at the bottom of the cup. Here's a picture: i.imgur.com/ixYTONq.jpg PS: I've cleaned the inside of the bakelite cover, checked the brushes & cleaned the commutator a wee bit then reassembled the whole thing. Everything still works *thumbs up. :-)

[@andytubesewing1953]

Good job! I checked the picture and it certainly looks like some kind of "pad" is placed inside there. I have never seen that in any motor before. I'm wondering what it is made of as I believe it would have to be heat resistant. That shaft sure spins fast, with at least hundreds of RPM. Seems like it would get some heat generated. I also wonder if it lets the motor run a little quieter? Really interesting, Maxime. Thank you very much for sharing.

[@JebbAdams]

@@andytubesewing1953 I've removed & replaced 4 of these bearings. There weren't any objects in them except the bearing. They have 1 vertical slot in the side of the bearing. That slot is aligned vertical when the motor shaft is seated.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@JebbAdams Thanks for sharing this.🙏 I'd never seen anything inside either. I had wondered if a previous repairman had installed it. If only the machines could talk.

[@JebbAdams]

@@andytubesewing1953 Oh the stories we might hear! Lol!

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@JebbAdams Right on! That would make a best selling book 😀

[@michaelbean739]

Andy, can a pa motor run in the opposite direction. CW to CCW. THANKS MIKE.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I've never done it. I was told it could if the wires were switched at the core or field, but that was just a casual conversation. That changes the magnetic field and therefore the direction is what was mentioned. I do not know how to do it myself. On a PA motor, there is a fan and its fins are bent a certain way, so if the direction was reversed the fan would blow reversed also, I think. I'm sure you can google how to do it if that's something you're interested in it.

[@DFTBAandDS]

Hi, I have a PA style motor with the grease tube. I don't understand how it is possible to fill the tube with grease if the wick is in there! When I try to inject grease, it mostly comes right back out. I'd appreciate any comments, thank you.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Usually, if there is a wick it does not fill the whole space but leaves room for a SMALL AMOUNT of grease. There can be dried grease inside the tube preventing you from adding more, and the wick can be stiff with old dried grease also. There are various opinions as to removing all of that, from using a toothpick to using a hairdryer while running the motor full speed. Here is a nice article about the wick on a 221 motor to give you some ideas: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/learning-about-motor-felt-wicks They also have some motor lube they sell: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/motor-lubricant along with some results of testing several lubes. I also read years ago to put one (1) or two (2) drops of regular sewing machine oil into the tubes to soften up the old wicks after cleaning the top of the tube with a toothpick. Others say that the oil could ruin the motor! I personally do not believe it could and I show why in my video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rIOah6B3eJuYrLc You'll have to do a little more research and decide how you want to go about it. I will say that the consensus seems to be that you only put a very small amount of grease in the tube. BTW, 21 hours ago I responded to your other comment asking me about an email address. I have not heard from you as of this time. Best of luck and thanks for watching my channel.

[@DFTBAandDS]

@@andytubesewing1953 wow, thank you for such a detailed reply! I will look into it. Also, email just sent!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Welcome. I got your email and just replied. Best of Luck to you.

[@robertlandry8919]

Can you use the 401 motor in a 301. 400 series are much easier to get ahold of? I even found a 401 that already had parts removed. Thanks

[@andytubesewing1953]

QUICK ANSWER: I found 4 on eBay just now. This is the one I would buy, having bought from this seller and his price is lower: www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-VINTAGE-Sewing-Machine-301-301a-Motor-Working-Complete/174040935027?hash=item2885a5ea73:g:WSYAAOSwy05diOIJ:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!85282!US!-1 SHORT ANSWER: NO, you can't use the 401 motors in the 301A machines. LONG ANSWER: I look up the parts numbers and between the 401A and 301A and the parts numbers are all different for the lower and upper housings, the armature, the shafts, and the pinion gear. That tells me probably not able to work properly. (although it might "fit" in the space) You could always try it I suppose and see if it would work, but 301A motors are available. (if you are in the Americas, anyway.)

[@ronalddaub9740]

@@andytubesewing1953 do all 301as I have the bakalite main gear I was very shocked and depressed to see that. ? My motor is just like that.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@ronalddaub9740 Easy does it, Ronald. The gear on the handwheel is Textolite, a very different material than the gears on the shafts of the machines you have. No worries.

[@kam5876]

Hi Andy, your awesome video gave me the courage to open my 301 motor. It is extremely dirty inside. I have a 404 motor that I could use to replace it. Would this be a good idea? I read that the 301 sews faster than the 404. Would installing the 404 motor make my 301 slower even though the 404 is a more powerful motor? Thank you!

[@andytubesewing1953]

After working on the motors for both those models I don't think you could do that swap. The size and height may be different and the pinion gear, meaning the gear that mates with the handwheel gear, may be of a different size or "threading" also. The motor numbers on the bottom of the housing, like PA something. I feel sure they are different models. As far as faster or slower motor speeds, that depends a lot on the other parts in the machine like arm shafts, levers, part weights, and hook type also. I believe the 404 motor is actually the higher rated as far as amps. For me, I would just clean the existing motor and replace the carbon brushes if needed. I did a 5 video series about restoring a PA motor and you could watch those and see what you think about cleaning your 301 motor. kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ You can also watch another video of motor cleaning the uses a different um ... style to clean it up: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZ_akox4g8icebc Good Luck, KAM

[@kam5876]

Wow, thank you Andy, for your lightening fast reply! I wrote that comment, then followed the link at the end of this video and watched your series on restoring a PA motor while I did the work. I am so excited that I got the motor cleaned up and all back together with no parts left over! I came back and was very surprised that you already responded. You are the best teacher. I watched the video link that you sent of the other teacher a while back. I like that guy too but you are much better at showing in detail exactly how to disassemble and reassemble the parts. I don't have my 404 motor out yet but you're probably right that it could be a different size. I will check but will probably just re-install the original now that it is clean. I have one other question regarding a sewing machine that was completely frozen when I got it. I used a lot of Liquid Wrench, oil and heat before before it finally started t to move. Then I realized that the excess oil had soaked into the motor housing under the machine and got into the motor winding. Do you think I can clean it off with some alcohol or will the motor need to be replaced? It was working great but I stopped using it as soon as I realized that it was oily.

[@andytubesewing1953]

First, let me thank you for mentioning you followed the link at the end of the video. I have put links at the end of over 400 videos and you are the first person to mention them. I've always wondered if anyone even saw them. So I have heard over the years that if oil gets in the motor that you have to junk it. I have had oil get into the carbon brushes before and onto the commutator. I tossed the brushes and cleaned the motor as in my PA series, put new brushes in and the motor worked fine, no smoking or overheating. When I look at the motor parts I wonder why you could not just clean it with alcohol, or even Krud Kutter Degreaser. I mean if I was going to junk the motor because of the oil I would certainly experiment with cleaning it however I could. Used motors are not cheap, and no one is making them anymore. What will we do with these great machines when we can't get motors for them? Some people freak out when they see me take a machine in the shower and wash it with KK and a garden hose. It works and drying it very well then oiling it right away is the key. For the motor windings, I could wash it, and dry it right away but could not oil it afterward. BUT, is there something in/on that PA motor that is going to rust other than the screws? I would try decreasing it as mentioned, drying the heck out of it with a hair drying, low heat, and high volume. I would even try cleaning the carbons just to see if I could. My view is there is nothing to lose if I was going to throw it out anyway. It's your motor so it's your choice. Good Luck either way and thanks for watching my PA Motor series and saving your motor; nicely done, KAM

[@kam5876]

Wow, I'm very surprised to be the first person to mention your link at the end of the video. I'm sure that many others must use them too. They probably just don't tell you about it. Thank you very much for your encouragement and instructions on cleaning the motor. I agree that it is much better to try to clean it than to throw it away. I am going to look for your videos on which parts to take off when cleaning machines in the shower. I have spent way too many hours cleaning dirty machines with Q tips. I am excited about the prospect of a faster way to accomplish that task. Be blessed!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Hi, KAM. I was so fed up with the Q-tip cleaning I had to try something. I got the idea after finding Krud Kutter Cleaner and Degreaser on the shelf at Home Depot one day. I took an old beat up Touch-n-sew and sprayed with full strength KK and hosed it off and blew it dry with my leaf blower. At full strength, the KK really dulled the white paint, but man was that machine clean. I next filmed the 404 restoration and showed how I do it: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI I also showed it in my "fanciful" series "Coco goes to the spa" about restoring a 301A: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI I usually dismantled most of the parts on a machine, but even when I don't, that Wash with KK, Rinse with a hose, dry with leaf blower method beats the Q-tip method hands down no comparison. I hope you'll try it sometime. No joke about you being the first either! 415 videos, 715,700+ views, 3,481,900+ minutes from 212 countries and territories and no one ever mentioned the ending page with the links. I always try to give meaningful ones for my viewers. Now I feel much better about it after you mention others may use and like the links and just did not think to mention it. Nice. Very Nice and thank you for that. Best of Luck, KAM, and thanks for watching my channel/

[@johnrusso947]

Andy, do you have any tips on testing if the std bearing at the pinion side of the motor has any issues?? Is it just feeling how smooth it is before you reassemble it?? Or do you have any other methods??

[@andytubesewing1953]

I do not, John. Only manually turning or connect to motor leads and run the motor. That bearing is the one I mention in your previous post. I have had a couple motors that are "rough" when you hold the motor and turn that pinon. Some have felt "gritty" like the first one I cleaned with Krud Kutter and now it's as dry as a bone and whines and screeches when running.

[@johnrusso947]

Andy, do you know where you could get a replacement bearing for the pinion side??

[@andytubesewing1953]

shop.sew-classic.com/Bearing-upper-sealed-motor-bearing-Singer-401-403-404-500-503-196630.htm If you are successful in replacing the bearing, please post a video of the procedure. I've had many viewers request it but have never replaced one myself. Good Luck.

[@johnrusso947]

Andy Thanks for the bearing source.

[@johnrusso947]

The site you sent me to shows the bearing but also shows a bearing retaining clip. I would have thought that if it was a pressed fit it wouldn’t have a retaining clip. I just bought a 501 motor and am going to take it apart per your very detailed and clear video. I don’t know how the pinion bearing will be. It’s hard to tell how smooth and free it is with the brushes in there. When I spin it? I feel what I think are the brushes. I ordered some bearings because I have 4 401a’s that need some refurbishing and want to make sure I have a bearing on hand if I need it. It will be interesting to see how hard it is to get that retaining clip off. Thanks again.

[@ronalddaub9740]

I was shocked to see a bakelite main gear running directly behind the name wheel on the main shaft I didn't think a 1951 or 52 used gears made out of vehicle light how do these hold up anyone know? I sure hope they're not like the plastic one s

[@andytubesewing1953]

Are you asking about the gear on the handwheel? If so it is made of Textolite and it is very durable. I've only heard of one that had damage. It's a totally different type of gear that the top gear of the verticle shaft on the later machines that cracked and broke over time.