Thanks for your thoughtful question. Nicely done. Yes, you can do what you are asking about but I'd like to add updated information. I'll start with the KK Cleaner & Degreaser. After several more machines, I have learned I can use a weaker solution of the KK to water with good results. I have come to learn that the stronger the solution and the longer the solution is left on the metal, the more chances of creating rust. I spoke with a cousin who is a chemist and he advised me about this. The chemicals are stronger than we realize and that affects the metal. For general cleaning, I use a 15 to 20% solution now. For very bad areas I'll use up to a 50% solution. I have had machines with those gears so impacted with dried grease and crud that I had to use the 100% solution but then I rinse it off immediately. I have moved my pre-treatment and wash areas closer together for that reason, usually side-by-side. I use a beat-up old sewing cabinet right next to the shower/tub area so I can quickly rinse off areas soon after I get them clean. Using this method has mostly eliminated any flash rusting. The elliptical on the main arm shaft that the forked feed connection rides on sometimes shows a small amount of rust and I think that metal may be a little "softer" or porous is the reason. If I have a couple of spots that still have dried gunk after the complete wash I can see them easily with all the other gunk washed away spot clean those areas quickly. It still remains important to QUICKLY and COMPLETELY dry the machine as soon as possible once clean. Then oil it right away for best results. I usually remove many more parts than in this video and when I reinstall them and adjust them I may come across a tiny spot of gunk or rust and can usually just use a Q-tip for removing them. I made this video b/c I had many requests from folks who could not or did not want to remove all the parts I do. You can remove all the parts you are comfortable with and clean them separately before (or after) the main body/machine. I have videos for the other parts in the Playlist for the 401A ( a few) kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO and the Playlist for model 403A ( many part removal videos here) kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg The 403A is the sister to the 401A with fewer parts as you may know, but many of the main parts are the same and can guide you for removing them from the 401A. I suggest you download this FREE PDF copy of the Service Manual for these models if you do not have it: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf it is 43 pages of remove, replace, and adjustment instructions and I often refer to these when I am working on a machine. I hope this info will be helpful, and thanks for keeping the machine in service. Good Luck. I pinned your question to the top for others to see first ⭐⭐

If everything else is done correctly I can think of three possibilities. 1. The Needle Bar is not at the correct height. 2. The timing has been lost. 3. The top gear (plastic) on the Vertical Shaft is broken. I have 23 videos for this model in a Playlist here: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p One of the videos is about the Needle Bar so you can check the height of it and re-set it if needed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6K8ZmamnJ1-i8U One of the videos is about checking and setting the Needle Point to Hook Point Timing so the bobbin thread is picked up: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p36ykmiHhZxkl9U I do not have a video for replacing the broken gear. The Service Manual has instructions for replacing it but it is a real project. Something like 12 steps to remove it, the 12 steps to put the parts back in place. A new gear is only $10 but the labor is extensive. An easy way to test the gear is to open the bobbin slide plate, and watch the Hook while turning the handwheel counterclockwise (toward you) The hook is the metal ring around the bobbin case and bobbin that grabs the needle thread to wrap it around the bobbin thread. If the hook does not move it can not do that and you will never make a stitch. Sometimes the teeth on the gear start breaking off first and you see skipped stitches and then the gear cracks in half and you can not sew. If you have a bad gear come back and tell us and we can lead you to the manual and replacement gear if you want to replace it. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.

Thank you and I appreciate you watching my channel.

@ I’m now thinking about a singer industrial walking foot 16-188. I ended up with 3 -401’s 2 completely restored and sewing smoothly! I’m a 70 YO retired Plumber with big fat fingers! And some of the tiny screws are a challenge! I bet you were fun to work with! Thanks again

@@dennisslattery499 I've never worked on industrial machines, but with your background, I think you'd enjoy the size and power of them. Here is a breakdown of the Model 16 machines ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-16-sewing-machines.html An illustrated parts manual: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/industrial-manuals/singer-model-16-188-sewing-machine-manual.pdf and the general model 16 instruction manual ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/industrial-manuals/singer-class-16-sewing-machine-manual.pdf I worked for a Bell System Telephone company. After the first two years of my five-year apprenticeship, I was moved into Residential installation. My first job was installing party five of an eight-party phone line on Gila RIver Reservation. The poles were square, the wires were bare steel. I had to put a vacuum tube in the phone and rewire it to ring for party No. 5. It was a small adobe house with 18-inch thick walls and the owner asked me to mount the wall phone on the side of her refrigerator. I would not have been fun to work with that day but I probably would have turned your ears red with my language. For most of my career, I worked with electro-mechanical western electric phone systems. The new transistor-style phones, and ended with maintaining part of the 911 system in a central office. Lots of new technology kept the job interesting,

@ what a pleasure to get this trove of information. I started an electrical apprenticeship in 1974, about the third year I found that I had a form of dyslexia and kept getting my wires crossed! It became problematic with 3 phase high voltage installations. So The Plumbers & Pipefitters accepted me with all my time and training. I became a master Plumber, licensed med gas installer, and journey pipe fitter. I am from Michigan, but during hard times I started working at our nuclear power plants, and military construction projects, thus traveling around the Northern states, from cost to cost. I so much appreciate all the work you have put into your videos! God Bless

While my career was in Phoenix Metro area you traveled all over the north of our country that must have been an exciting time with everything you learned the work you did and everything you saw I enjoy hearing about these type of careers in detail because I have no idea about them but I know that there are many highly skilled people doing this work day in and day out so I appreciate hearing about it maybe if you get into the industrial machines you could make a couple videos yourself and see if you liked it take care of yourself and be well

@@haint7709 thanks for the very nice comment I appreciate it and I'm glad if the video helped at all

Never heard of the Singer Model 1950. If you mean 15-91, (The one in my videos kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo ) the shafts are pinned together at the factory, so timing can not change or go out. Only if the shafts are bent for some reason did they have a kit with new shafts that used screws, and after replacing the bent shafts, there is a procedure to reset timing. The only times I have had a 15-91 that skipped stitching was because the needle bar had been pushed up a bit, and resetting the needle bar fixed it. You can get a free copy of the Adjusters Manual for Model 15-90 here: archive.org/details/singer-15-91-adjusters-manual-en/page/20/mode/2up It explains how to replace the shafts on page 23 and how to adjust the NB on page 24. If you actually meant to say model 1950 I could not find any information about it.

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for getting back to me. the motor in the back is rectangular and has a plate on it. i can send you a picture if you are interested. So my machine is very similar to the one on the video above, but it isnt the one I have.

@@catvaganay3237 Singer made many machines in 1950 but never made a Model 1950, sorry. Where does it say on the machine that it is a 1950? If you are looking at a plate attached to the motor and it has "1950" on it that is probably the model or type of the motor, NOT the model number of the machine. Most old black Singer household models of sewing machines have a SERIAL NUMBER on the machine. It is often at the base of the UPRIGHT, (the vertical body between the sewing surface of the base) and the upper horizontal arm. It should stand out and be easy to read. it is normally one or two letters followed by six or more numbers. In the above video @13:30 my pointer is on the bobbin winder spindle and under my pointer, behind the spindle, on the surface of the bed, is a plate with the serial number. You can keep telling me it is a "1950" model but that won't really be helpful.

Let's try to keep the comments together in one chain by just replying to the previous comment instead of always making a new comment. Thank you. In my opinion, you must have the positioning bracket in place to sew. That is why Singer made it. I'm still confused by you saying there is no hook. I guess it is what you are calling a part of the position bracket? In your very first comment, you wanted to send me pictures and I replied with an email address but you never did send any. I'll try again. You can send pictures to [email protected]

@@GaryCraigen if you have the thread already between the tension disc yes you can adjust the tension but if you raise the presser foot it will not released tension on the thread like if you want to pull the fabric out from under and cut the thread after sewing so it's a real pita without having that part working some people have glued a thin piece of metal or wood very thin across there if the little bar is only cracked of you were told me last week used a small soldering iron to kind of melt it back together and that worked for her but you won't enjoy sewing until it's fixed or replaced

@@moeytoo You're very welcome I'm glad if the video is helpful and thank you for getting that machine and getting it back into service and sewing I appreciate your comment

@@andytubesewing1953Andy, I really need someone to do some videos on the white 763,764, or preferably the 769. Any chance you have any of those? I’m especially perplexed by the wiring on my 769. She has a kind of plug I’ve never seen before.

@@moeytoo I never worked on that brand of machine. They are very hard to find service manuals for, but I did find this company selling a model 764 service manual for $10. I don't know if it would have the information you want www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/service-manual-white-764?srsltid=AfmBOopKAC84NFP-X9mh4CSjwDpZI05h4-DwQ_MWgqNiO98qfPGZ_6YG

@@ausnein7139 I'm glad you remembered me and this video very kind of you to take the time and leave such a nice comment happy sewing forever

Yes, I did reply to your original comment. The Bobbin Case Positioning Bracket complete (incld base and screws) is part no. 179595. It was used on models 327K, 328K, and 329K, You have to find a vintage one for sale from someone selling the parts of the machine, part by part. You may have to buy the whole hook and assoc, parts. I use eBay in the USA for most of my part buying. Here are some of the sellers I have used for years who part out machines. If you see they are selling parts from one of the mentioned models, but not the position bracket, you can ask them if they have one in stock they did not list yet. www.ebay.com/str/duanesec45bottlesmore?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 www.ebay.com/str/rootdiggersattic?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 www.ebay.com/str/jbauersbargains?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 www.ebay.com/str/1cheesehead?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=256418891765&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211&_ssn=hjplt www.ebay.com/str/vstrang1366?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211 Good Luck.

@@nonyabidness1623 thank you very much I just checked this video and see it has 25,000 views now I can't believe it but I am so happy so many people are interested in keeping the machines going I appreciate your kind comment and thanks for the blessing 🙏

I'll start with a link to my Playlist for model 503A and its 27 videos for maintenance and adjusting: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX You can bookmark that if needed. One of the videos is a lengthy tutorial for regular maintenance of the machine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZ-ViXdqeq5_fK8 You could scan through that video and compare your machine to mine to truly judge the condition of your machine. As far as needle position I DO NOT have a specific video for that, sorry. I have a video for the complete removal and replacing the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket that holds aligns, and moves (swings) the needle bar. You can look through that to get an idea of how things work concerning the NB. I'm not saying to remove yours but just to see how it all works. You can speed up the playback, of course: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmq9moqLh7V0Y7M There is a spring to the NBVB that makes it swing back during ZZ sewing. There is also a video specific to removing and replacing the NB if it comes to that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqWpk36Eoa2tqqs There are other parts that affect the NB, such as the Needle Bar Driving Arm that could need attention. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmrOg4V7nt2Hm6M At this point, you can easily understand why I try cleaning and lubrication before anything else. You could also just have a bent needle, or the needle is not inserted completely, or the needle plate is not seated correctly which affects the position of the needle. In the original Service Manual for the 500/503 on pages 12 -14 are instructions for Centering the Needle in the straight stitch needle plate (if you have one with just the small hole) it involves loosening a couple of screws on the Vibrating Bracket and moving the NB into the center of the hole then tightening the screws back up. You can download a FREE COPY in PDF of that manual here: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf So, best to check the easy things first, like a bent needle, and then be sure of proper lubrication before any adjusting work. Machines that sit for a long time have oil settle to low spots and get hard. Very hard like varnish, that prevents normal movement of parts. Your shop squirted oil all over everything that can temporarily get things going but if there are globs of dried oil floating around they are bound to interfere with normal movement until they get soft and break down from the new oil, WD40, or heat from say a hairdryer. Thanks so much for watching my channel, and good luck.

you are wonderful! Thank you for the great info! I was able to oil some spots you talk about xxand get it to move - it’s all working fine now!

@@sleblanc3704 OK, great that you are in the "swing" of things again. Enjoy that beautiful machine and happy sewing.

Very welcome. You sure picked a winner. I sold my 237 and regret it. My playlist has 20 more videos if you find it needs any work kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Happy sewing and take care.

@@AlexandersPappa I'm glad the video was helpful to you and I appreciate the nice comment happy sewing

Ouch. Very hard to find by itself now. If you have a model 221 the GIB is Part No. 45831 and should show that on your old one. I bought a couple here a few years back: singer-featherweight.com/products/gib-hook-singer-vintage-original You see how pricey they are now when in stock. You may need to buy the whole hook, IDK www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=singer+model+221+hook+gib&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313 Since model 301 is also mentioned in my video you may have that model. If so, the GIB Part No. of that model is 170160

🙏 Thank you 🙏 I appreciate your comment very much. You understand how I present my videos very well. I want people to understand the "why" so they can move from model to model and understand the workings of the parts. It was very intuitive of you to swap out the bobbin case. Logical and progressive troubleshooting skills. I can tell you did have fun with the machines and I hope you can do another one in the future. Thanks for saving them, and for making my day,

@@juhieanwar4430 😊

Nicely done. I appreciate the comment and thanks for keeping the machine in service.

@@andytubesewing1953 AND - then my straight stitch on the 328K was good but dropped so many stitches on zig zag. Argh! I had headache-producing issues with the needle bar height/timing marks and timing itself. This morning, with a clear head, I watched your video on timing slowly and carefully and, viola', perfect straight stitches and perfect zig zag with no dropped stitches. You are SUCH an amazing teacher and, once again, saved the day for me and got this vintage machine back in service! Thank you Andy!!

@@bsugarman1 It seems like it's always something, right? I'm glad you set it aside and came back to it later. I've done that frequently. If I'm stuck on a machine problem I'll usually restore the foot pedals as they are always neglected. I really appreciate your comments and attitude. Carry on, friend.

I'm happy to hear that! Happy sewing 😊

That's weird! 😲I've been trying to think what could cause this. Of course, you want to be sure the DDWW teeth are meshed with the work gear of the arm shaft. Like the DDWW must sit all the way down. All I can think of is the ECCENTRIC WORM WHEEL SHAFT got turned out of position somehow. Maybe when you removed or installed the Screw Stud. EWWS is what the Screw Stud screws into. The deal with it is that it is eccentric so you can adjust it to move the teeth of the DDWW closer or farther to or from the WORM GEAR on the Horizontal Arm Shaft. If it turned into the worm gear too much you get all kinds of weird binding while turning the arm shaft (handwheel) if it is turned too far from the work gear you get a very loose meshing and what they call backlash which to me is the DDWG teeth and the Worm Gear teeth being so far apart that the parts bang back and forth. When adjusting the EWWS you turn it clockwise. If one were to crank the screw stud down hard it may have resulted in turning the gears together hard enough to bind them somewhat. The EWWS is held in place by a set screw accessed on the front of the machine. That's all I can think of at this time without having the machine on my own bench to test. There is a diagram of this adjustment in the middle of page 158 of the Singer Form 20732 entitled "Singer Automatic Swing-Needle Machines of Class 401". It is considered the Service & Adjustment Manual for the machine. You can download a free PDF copy at this link: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Maybe you can look that over and see what you think.

@@andytubesewing1953 Well I'll be. It was the EWWS. I'd been staring at it for the better part of a day trying to work out how I could reposition it to stop the binding and was even trying to figure it out in the service manual myself. Then I read your comment. I looked where you said and was able to remove the EWWS set screw and eventually wiggle the whole EWWS out. I cleaned it, looked it over and saw the eccentric shape of it. I put it back in and just kind of rotated it until I got good meshing between the DDWW and worm gear, put the EWWS set screw in, and now I'm all good. I'm pretty sure I worked out what happened. After cleaning, I put the DDWW back in and noticed I was getting a little backlash. Not really knowing about the EWWS, I cranked down on the Screw Stud thinking that would help, and I'm pretty certain that moved the EWWS enough to really mess things up. So, I imagine the EWWS needed adjusting anyways, I just made it worse with binding instead of backlash. Thanks a lot! Now I can work through timing and final adjustments!

@@nickhill8859 So glad you worked it out. It is rare for that EWWS to move so I think someone played with it before you. They engineered a tricky little part there, haha. Thanks for keeping that machine in service and good luck.

@@kearaallbee5644 when you have a big rat's nest of thread on the bottom of the fabric that normally indicates you have very low or zero tension on the needle thread so the normal tension on the bobbin thread pulls a needle thread right down through the fabric and it gets caught on the hook over and over until it can't move the first thing to do is completely remove the needle thread and re-thread the needle all the way from the spool to the eye of the needle being sure you're using the method shown in the instruction manual a common problem is people forget that the presser foot must be up when threading the needle so the thread can pass between the tension discs in the tension unit if the thread does not pass between two of the discs then there is no tension on the thread maybe you could give that a try and let us know

Sorry, I don't know about the weights of leather. I just buy used belts at yard sales so I can test the machines I rehab. Using a leather needle and a walking foot can make it easier on the machine and create a slightly better-looking stitch. A leather crafter in Scottsdale told me to use the smallest size needle I could depending on the thread size. Thanks for watching. If you are interested in this model here is my Playlist of 20+ videos about it. kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p

It's not the timing"... is a perfect mantra to start your troubleshooting. Unless the needle will not bring up the bobbin thread at all timing is about the last thing I check. I appreciate your comment and pinned it to the top.

@@krisdevoecht very welcome and good luck

A couple of possible reasons. 1 - you are not locking the stitch lever by turning the chrome thumbnut on the end to the right. See page 17 of the Instruction Manual. If you need the manual a free PDF is available from ISMACS here: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-401-slant-o-matic-sewing-machine.pdf 2 - The Feed Regulator mounting Screw/Bolt is loose. The stitch lever actually controls a part called the Feed Regulator inside the Upright of the machine. There is a screw/bolt behind the handwheel to mount the feed regulator. If the bolt gets loose you get what is called "Regulator Creeping" where you see the stitch lever creeping up when the machine is in use. You remove the handwheel and tighten that bolt a bit and that fixes the creep. Not as hard as it sounds. Here are a couple of videos that can help you: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4LXeKqjhL6nn8U kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZ6rmGtse5xmfrs We have found when the regulator bolt is tightened properly we don't need to lock the stitch if we don't want to. Good Luck.

@@andytubesewing1953 Mine is a 401a and I tried locking down the stitch lever but I don't think the little indicator tab is for that purpose as the angle of the lever allow upward movement which increased the distance between the indicator tab and the plate. When the lever moves up, it moves the feed dogs. I took off the hand wheel as you suggested and the large screw was very tight screwed in. I backed it off with no change in the stitch lever problem. The lever is not loose. It moves very deliberately and stays in place when released but moves upward when sewing. I tried to remove the screw at the end of the lever but it will not budge. On your video that show a different model you showed the screw being left hand thread. I still can't get the stitch lever screw to come off. I though I had the presser foot pressure knob on top of the machine turned down to tight on the the feed dogs but with it all the way loose the stitch lever still moves up when sewing.. What do I know but I feel the problem is in the connection between the feed dogs and the stitch lever. Any other suggestions? Thanks for taking the time to reply to my problem. Do you have a patrion page for donations to your youtube videos?

@@DennisKenneybees As explained in the manual, locking the lever allows you to move it upward (intended for reverse sewing) UNLESS you lock it in the bottom (longest stitch) location. I suggested that b/c your original comment stated "" stitch length lever to move from largest stitch length up on its own "". I understand that your model is a 401A. I have 600+ videos on my channel, but not one for working on the Stitch Length/Feed Regulator System of the 401A. The Feed Regulator System is the same on the 401A & 403A and I do have the video of the 403A and thought it would be helpful. I'm glad you check the mounting screw behind the handwheel. As it was tight we now know being out of adjustment is not the problem. If you ever want to remove the regulator I show that in the 403A video I gave you above and here is the link again kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZ6rmGtse5xmfrs You can remove the entire regulator without removing the lever if you wish to. If you'd like to remove the screw at the end of the lever it shows that beginning at 35:40 of the video. You also stated that "" I feel the problem is in the connection between the feed dogs and the stitch lever."" The same video shows the regulator and I explain a little bit about how it connects to the Feed Forked Connection that goes to the bottom of the machine and connects to parts that go over to the Feed Lifting Bar and Feed Dog. The Feed Regulator is the beginning of the controls and parts that regulate the movement of the Feed Dog. Feed Regulator = Feed Dog movement control or regulation, thus Feed Regulator is what Singer calls it. You can check out the condition of all those parts and see if any are damaged or out of adjustment if you like. I have found bent stitch length levers that caused very weird feed dog movement. I have found the Feed Dog out of adjustment from front to back that caused the Feed Lifting Bar holding the Feed Dog to strike the front or back of the throat casting and change the behavior of the feed dog and therefore the stitch lever. Usually, those parts are out of adjustment b/c someone was fooling with them in an attempt to "fix" things. I suggest you download a free copy of the original Service Manual from the Sewing Dude sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf It has 40+ pages containing almost every single adjustment possible on your 401A machine. There is a nice index you you'll be able to quickly find the different pages dealing with the feed system and feed dog. You can start at the Feed Regulator and work your way to the Feed Dog or start at the Dog and work towards the Regulator.

Other than user error there are a couple things that can cause that. If the Needle Bar got pushed up a little then the hook can't grab the thread. Check/reset needle bar height: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXrGonaVadZnesU If the NB height is good then you can check/reset the timing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2amqIl-bLesl6s Hope this helps get you back to sewing. Oh, by user error I mean wrong threading of the needle thread path, bent needle or needle inserted backward, etc.

Thank you! If you'd like more info about this model I have a 20+ video Playlist for it: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p Happy sewing, and I appreciate your comment.

Model 533 also uses a Class 66 bobbin case. so the adjusting method is the same. If you mean something else by "spec" let me know.

I'm glad you persisted! I almost did not make the video because I was wondering if anyone would be interested in this adjustment. With nearly 3K views and nice comments like yours, I feel justified in making it. Thank you, Jacob. I appreciate your comment and good luck going forward.

@@zane9419 thanks for commenting I'm not clear how a slant o matic gives a stitch that mimics hand sewing slant o matics have a rotary hook but so does say model 347 which is not a slant needle but to me they give the same stitches help me out please

@@CAKress222 model 327k takes original low shank presser feet that were used on dozens of models you can find original vintage feet on eBay and other online sellers sometimes you can find the whole kit in the original box for your particular model or another model you can also buy aftermarket brand new feet for these machines but in my opinion they don't hold the candle to the vintage original presser feet you can also find a buttonhole maker for that machine and attachment that replaces the presser foot and uses pattern cams to sew different size button holes automatically

Singer Handwheel for model 353/354 is part number 319555. Occasionally show up on eBay and other sites: www.ebay.com/itm/375029653462?_skw=singer+model+353&itmmeta=01JJJWKZWBQH34XNER9GV61D10&hash=item5751825fd6:g:a5QAAOSwQVhlQ93N&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnIWy23Ae%2FV81UTVXs5J5PlZEUAm%2BjWwBVz7W4ei4A0weUgap8YEm%2BnkS88B19m%2BWZIfYuRgHftVhe5N1TwEUQCcX1SOx6mkcNMmlB8EHvUllMhh6%2FNf4qcnCkmrvM47POZuB6h738fIOMDg54ZoHGcw38zVpeuyzpGJ05dG%2BScHRdbQDEvu9OYl1IEmAlDnQXRduAWB2ezwrZ089hyoopqMmsXcsZs9m%2Fj9d2458si18GRJ6tvsSZiCFGOtFVsVl2ue1wR2U6%2FzRlzUOeG9M02aVI4gZBsk7us2chz%2B%2FwNHQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6r-z9yUZQ (They sell quickly) Here is my handwheel video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5yzinuNetB0ZpY It is part of my 20+ video playlist here: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p

Congratulations! It is a strong sewing machine. Every 2 to 4 years Singer updated their models/ In this case the 347/348 replaced the 337/338. You are correct about the presser feet, and the pattern discs are also the same and interchangeable, What changed is the Hook Drive System. While the 338 used a Bell-Crank Hook that goes back and forth to grab the needle thread, the 348 went to a new Belt Driven Rotary Hook System. It uses two pulleys and a Timing Belt to run the hook in a rotary (circle) manner. Many Sewists believe that the belt driven rotary hook system is much quieter than the bell-crank "tick-tocking" back and forth for every stitch. When you open the bottom of the 348 you will see the pulleys and belt right away,

@@andytubesewing1953 oh thank you so much for this! I’ve just tested how it sews and it makes beautiful stitches! The owner said it was serviced in 2020 and has been used only once since or something. I should probably oil it do you think ?

@judy8798 absolutely you should oil it it's still a mechanical machine it doesn't have oil reservoirs for most of the parts so you put just a drop or two but it eventually dries or gets thrown off so if a machine has been sitting for any period of time light oiling certainly won't hurt it besides if you put some oil on and it starts dripping off the parts just wipe it up with an old rag I'm so happy for you to have gotten such a sweet machine

@@andytubesewing1953 thank you ! I think I got lucky! 😁

@@suewallace2512 thanks very much Sue I appreciate the comment.

@@GUCR44 thanks very much you'll be impressed by how well it works and how fast your motor will run I appreciate your comment

I appreciate you watching and good luck with the part-out.

Very welcome I'm glad you liked the video and it is a marvelous machine I wish you happy sewing

Wow, talk about the right place at the right time! What a treasure. I appreciate your watching and happy sewing.

Very welcome, Rose. It is not intuitive the way it works. I'm glad it helped out. Happy sewing, and I appreciate your comment.

Thanks for saving that machine! I can relate to the mouse factor. I appreciate your nice comment and won't be surprised if you find another machine to restore. I little addicting 😊 Here is my "mouse" machine, before and after kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmWkf2B8jJx3sKM kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4fVg3-BbL6NY8k Take care and be well.

@@andytubesewing1953 oh my. Poor machine 😯 Mouse appeared to stay on the bottom on mine and thankfully not much rust at all except at the stitch lever. Metal bracket took a blow and the lever was so badly rusted and weak that had to get a new one. I do have on hand the 66, and started working on it, but don't know how to get the enamel safely clean...But the sewing machine runs! I still need to check for adjustments and thread. Thanks, same to you!

I'm glad you made it that far then. It's one of my favorite parts to do.

Glad it worked out. You're welcome, and I appreciate your comment.

@@williamcannon2825 I'm glad you found the video I appreciate your comment and thanks for that machine that you are keeping in service

Hi, Sheri. Well, it is a mechanical machine so there will be clicking of some parts. Not sure about jumping. It is free and easy to upload a video "short" to your KZbin Channel if you want to show us something. Here is a video about the Needle Bar Driving Arm: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmrOg4V7nt2Hm6M A Lifter and Follower video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6WvpZ5oj96kpJo Those videos may give you more info on the workings of the parts. You can also download a Free copy of the Service Manual from the Sewing Dude at this link: sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf It contains 46 pages of adjustment, removal, and replacement information for most parts of the machine. sewingdude.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf

​@andytubesewing1953 thank you. I will take a look at your recommendations. I appreciate you and your wonderful videos. Be well.

@bluetuber501 Good luck to you

My understanding is you don't "install" the machine at all. The sewing "table" surfaces (two) fold down. One surface is lower than the other. You just set your machine on the lower surface with the front edge against the upper surface. That puts the height of your machine bed even with the upper surface, When sewing the fabric slides off the back of your machine and down about 3 inches onto the lower surface. As far as the machine goes you store it off to the side of the folded-up surfaces (tables) on the bottom floor of the cabinet when you close the doors. I have seen them on Craigslist for free if you haul it out of their house and take it away b/c it is very heavy. So, unlike the cabinets in my video, you do not hang the machine on any hinges.

Very welcome, and thanks for keeping the machine in service. My 403A Playlist has 25 more videos if you find any other problems along the way. kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Happy sewing and I appreciate your comment.