A MUST HAVE for all Boat Owners - [Misc. Monday]

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One thing every boat should have is a bilge pump switch!
Here is a quick installation video of our Blue Guard Solid State Bilge Switch.
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[@johntripp2028]

Now all you need to do is install your number two bilge pump. Yes two are a must.

[@Rudder2]

I use Water Witch 230 - 12V. I love it! It's solid state and the only maintenance is every 6 months I clean the plates off with a greenie weenie. It's been the best thing I ever did. The only thins is when the plates get dirty the pump will run extra long till they dry the bilge gunk off. It's not a problem other than extra wear on the pump as it runs dry till the plates dry. When the plates are clean it functions awesome! I love the thing and I'm happy I want new age with the bilge pump switch!

[@gmanwaseverywhere2104]

Smart and resourceful, Dan. You are a true Swiss Army knife captain.

[@CheersWarren]

You don't know how good you have it. 😁 We had wood boats in the 60's and 70's , no electric pumps, no auto switches just a manual pump and hopefully some eyeballs on the waterline by the local boatman in case the boot strip disappeared and they pump it out for you and hope they call. ( that's why the manual pump is accessible from the cotpit .....). When you get to the boat for a weekend sail or race the first thing you do is pump out manually and count the number of strokes to empty the bilge. Simple! No 'Apps' for the pump either! ...... Oh....if you see rainbow colors on the water you know you have an oil or fuel leak!....cheers Warren

[@GordLamb]

Looks like a pretty solid system. When I redid my bilge pumping setup a few years ago, I went with two Water Witches (also solid state), one down low (6" water level) and one just above it (8"). The first triggers the main remote diaphragm bilge pump, and the second triggers an ear piercing high water alarm. A few inches above that, I built a platform with an emergency high-flow centrifugal pump (~4000GPH), separate discharge port way above the waterline (shared with a manual hand pump), and traditional float switch. The only thing I worry about with those solid-state sensors is contamination gumming them up. So far, so good.. but I do feel better knowing there's a redundant float switch driving the emergency pump. I'm surprised no one's come up with an ultrasonic pump switch, similar to the Maretron tank level monitors.

[@Jmmondeau]

Yes to your comment about the no moving part switches gumming up. My new float-less bilge pump has failed twice (I keep replacing it every 3 or so years) and the one with the Rule Float has never failed. Hmmmm. So much for modern electronics. But I keep one of each just the same.

[@scottmaschino1927]

@@Jmmondeau Just a thought, and asking because I truly am not sure. Do you clean the solid state one? Would flushing it out good with fresh water every month or two help it to not gum up?

[@Jmmondeau]

Scott Maschino I clean it regularly every two months with a tooth brush and tube brush. But cleaning it doesn't seem to alter its operations. I don't know why. It's not a hard job and I sleep better that way knowing I have back ups and a system that I inspect regularly.

[@jimanderson2518]

Well I'll have to say ..plane and simple that sytem although pretty and cute ,has trouble written all over it . As I do this type of work on a industrial level we use a very simular but much simplified system using pressure . If there's water at the sensor ,it pumps.You dont have to program it, set it , talk to it, tell it how long or short, it just pumps . Very important you know when water is pissing in and your switch desides..."well I think I've run long enough" ..ooops guess I f$#&k up the programming . Splish splash just taking a bath🛁 Great stuff guys keep it coming ⛵⛵⛵⛵⚓😘

[@ruaraidhmcdonald-walker9524]

Top tip, even has an oil detector built-in!! (NB Dan, for those of us binge watching all your steps from the beginning in season playlists, these Monday tips get missed out by KZbin, just found them now!) Cool main isolator and switchboard btw. Not seen that before during all the battery and install vids. Is there a step or misc video on the overall electrical system?

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

In the junction box, either spray all those screw with Fluid Film or apply some silicon dielectric grease. A small amount of that same grease on the tabs in the main control/display panel is also a goof idea.

[@c00lhand2469]

I like that system a lot more than my little counter. So much more modern.

[@fxpthl]

Welcome back kids. Looks like that trip was well worth the experience. Shame on you for going so long without an automatic switch/pump! Now you Can feel safe when away from Uma.

[@dougmyers6013]

Use the sensor pump that comes on and off without a flip or other sensor, 2 pumps for redundancy. Used them for years without failure, anytime you feel the need to check operational activity, put your finger on the sensor hold it there a couple seconds the pump activates, shuts off after check less than $100

[@kevbjork1]

Well I hope that thing works well for you and I hope you will report back to us later how well it works over time. I have tried several different brands of all in one bilge pumps and have had failures wit all of them I have gone back to float switch set ups and have found them much more reliable. Maybe others can put their 2 cents in.

[@asraharrison]

I am new to sailing, don't own a boat yet... but the biggest horrors for me are seacocks and bilge pump reliability! My biggest single fear I have is a boat that sinks because of some mundane failure. This bilge sensor seems like a VERY desirable asset. Thanks for sharing.

[@SailingUma]

I hear ya. We sleep much better at night away from the boat now, knowing all the TH are new and done right, and our bilge pump finally works.

[@wjhann4836]

First: from a charterer: Not the seacocks, but the through holes are the most crucial part. Not only the switch - also the pumps should be considered. - Many are simply to small - what is a 60l pump worth? IMHO it should transport more than a big seacock can bring in. - also some very famous pumps have very little inputs - a leave may even block them. Others look like Dan's switch - inlets all around. That would not so easy blocked. And: Last but not least (I really SELDOM see it): a good and waterproof electrical hookup for switch and pump.

[@STONEDARTphotos]

OMG! Please everyone, never sleep below deck on a boat without an auto bilge pump. Mel Fisher.

[@bubbasinclair6514]

Thanks for this video. I have been changing out broken and defective float switches in my boat for decades. They are terrible, even though I always bought the 'best' brand available. They definitely do not 'Rule'. This float switch may be the answer. Please let us know in a year or two how it is doing.

[@archie764]

I use the wet socks method very reliable

[@z_actual]

The only criticism I would have is it seems rather large The advantage of the Rule switches for the two pumps I have installed is they have quite a small footprint in a tight space that has to accommodate with the pump On the downside they dont trigger until theres a few inches of fluid in the bilge but the pumps are capable of better than that I would not rely on just one pump or switch

[@SailingUma]

You can mount it on it's side too.

[@Jmmondeau]

I agree to not rely on only one pump or switch. I have two also. One is modern traditional (the on off switch is built into the pump and no moving parts) and the second has a float. Both are always on automatic.

[@z_actual]

Kinda what I do. My pumps are dispersed so that one of 900gph capacity is forward, the other deeper in a very deep bilge at 2999gph, both have switches and both on separate circuits. All I have is Auto and Off

[@z_actual]

Mal, trash the switch My own finding is Rule switches seem to need to come up quite high to trigger (as I mentioned). I periodically test them because Im annoyingly fastidious about a clean and dry as I can bilge and Im often mopping it out. If mine where to become questionable I would junk it. My bilge is so deep it takes a 4ft mop to get to the bottom from the cabin sole, I cant reach it by hand laying on the cabin floor.

[@z_actual]

ok Jean my keyboard died and its a 2000 gph pump not 2999 ! Sorry for the inconvenience

[@Steil-o]

I really like these tech-videos....nice work

[@TGSamantha091]

oil/fuel detection also helpful since they are flammable and pump motors and flammable mats don't mix (usually) =)~

[@onthebeaches]

Good vid Dan! Yeah..I was thinking the same thing about never leaving your boat so the manual would be fine. I like everything about this unit. THANK! PEACE OUT! Ü

[@johntripp2028]

Never leave your boat. How is that. Is that possible.

[@onthebeaches]

John Tripp + Interesting comment because I'm always thinking about those thru hulls failing. Well, actually the thru hull doesn't fail as much as the hose breaking letting in massive amount of H2O! So, how does one rig their thru hulls to automatically turn off when the engine stops or to remotely turn them off before leaving your vessel. I'm curious what percentage of boats that sink are cause by faulty thru hulls?

[@JCrook1028]

Funny how he says they never left the boat but have videos of leaving the boat for a week or more multiple times..

[@UweBehrendt]

Im going to enjoy this Monday series thanks

[@yachticus]

Philosophical comment here - you have your control panel really close to the deck level - in my experience when the muck hits the fan - to the extent possible I would want "ship sysystems - as distinct from hospitality systems" as high as I could get them - at least 6" higher that the actual water level - - that poor old control panel will die of corrosion in no time. Short work around - get a dehumidifier)

[@karlaharrington1]

New to sailboats, but studying for the future. How does the water get into the bilge in the first place? Isn't the boat watertight? What's leaking? Does every "leak" of water make it's way down to the bilge?

[@Planetdaz68]

There are dozens of sources of water in the bilge. From leaks (keel bolts, thru-holes) to leaky engine coolant or other internal plumbing, to fridge and freezer condensation, shower sumps, spills, rain coming in through an open window, anchor locker etc. The main thing is, if water comes in, get it back out.

[@SailingUma]

The main thing to avoid is leaks under the waterline. Everything leaks eventually, but keeping on top of them is just life on a boat. Currently our boat only leaks in two places. They chain plates, which we'll be rebedding soon, and the hole the chain goes down into the chain locker. It used to leak from everywhere, that's what we fixed in the Rio. We were pumping the bilge out 2-3 times a day on passage from Columbia to Guatemala.

[@Jmmondeau]

Now there is a bilge switch I could use. My shower go'es into the bilge hollow keel (15 gallons hollow) and I did not want it to cycle on till the keel is full so its not coming on and off constantly for every little bit of water. Now I can set it to drain the keel when its full and run till the keel is empty while having the switch mounted high in the keel. Thanks for this video. I was having to make my own delayed "off bilge switch" by using two bilge switches and relays and stuff.

[@GordLamb]

Just FYI, if you use bar soap, it'll leave scum that'll cause any bilge switch to fail, float or solid-state. It's definitely worth installing a dedicated shower sump box.

[@philrobson4287]

I’m surprised you didn’t just make your own 3 years ago with a cork, some ABS, and some wire.

[@Jfwr2010]

Good info...Thanks Dan!

[@craigme2583]

You guys got a CO2/CO alarm. Some one just died in Australia cos of monoxide...stay safe guys... Love yr work You never said how well the solid state fridge works for you?

[@CraigOverend]

That's sad, I just found the story, says the stove was left in the on position. I also read recently on cruisersforum about someone's lead acid battery setting off thier CO detector and waking them. The battery had boiled off all it's electrolyte. Even LiFePO4 batteries output CO and other gasses when they thermally runaway, so not having gas on a boat is no excuse for not having a CO detector. www.abc.net.au/news/2018-09-24/young-sailors-parents-warn-of-carbon-monoxide-dangers/10213000

[@SailingUma]

We don't because we no longer burn fuel onboard.

[@craigme2583]

@@SailingUma you cook with induction ? Did i see that install or was it Delos? I watch too many sailing Channels ha ha

[@wkw4095]

Good job! They were smart to send this to you.

[@faircompetition1203]

I love the panel , switch looks a little big .

[@owlnationlegal4228]

Tis prudent to use an analog switch as a backup since digital devices are notorious for failing when you need it.

[@lkm5462]

Why did you wait so long? Just going ashore for the afternoon could have been a disaster. Nice vid, thanks

[@JCrook1028]

Because sadly they still feel that bad things only happen to other people. I really hope they start taking safety a little more seriously.

[@cptstewartcannon2326]

Howdy, Dan and Kika! Correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't those current settings, cause issues, if the leak was a bad one? In a situation where you need the bulge pump continuously, would the pump shut off after one minute? Then would the anti sloshing timer cause a minute long delay before allowing the pump to restart? If a large thruhull or hose failed, would everything keep up? Great content. I learn something new every episode. Either about some far away place or a good way to repair/build something. Thumbs up guys!

[@SailingUma]

As soon as the switch contacts water the pump turns on. We have it set for 60 seconds which clears the bilge. If that lowered the water enough that the switch no longer contacted water, it would shut the pump off until the water rose again. The anti sloshing setting is low, med, high, off. So it's more to detect drops of water, not full submersion. If the water was rising faster than the pump could suck it out, then the entire switch would get covered and the high water alarm would go off. Hope that make sense.

[@cptstewartcannon2326]

Cool. So basically if it starts to get overwhelmed it will turn on continuously.

[@paulcollins9397]

I think the switch sensors can be mounted slightly higher than the “normal” low water in the bilge, allowing the timer to lower the water back to “normal”, leaving the switch dry & clean???

[@dalesmth1]

I I need to get one to play with, and see if I can integrate it with the Czone system i'm having installed this winter. I'm hauling out my FP 44 next month for a 100% NMEA 2K and Czone install.

[@jhudds67]

Looks like a nice set up

[@MarcAmengual]

Cool device

[@phygital1]

This is my next project and exactly what I’m looking for. However there’s no description on how to order it... Did you see them at the London Boat Show? Are they VERY new on the market?

[@gary5831]

I would put a strain relief to hold the cable coming out out of the bilge control panel. DONT let the cable just hang off the back of the connectors.

[@jordanevans7544]

You didn’t mention the great thing about an analog float switch is that you can keep spare parts with you and fix it immediately. With solid state, if it burns out you’re pretty much screwed. This is the reason the Navy uses analog vs solid state on many of their systems to this very day.

[@SailingUma]

The manual override bypasses the solid state switch. So the pump still works, you just have to check for water every few days for any abnormal amount. We didn’t have an automatic switch for the first 3 years. It we lived on the boat, so it was never unattended.

[@jordanevans7544]

Sailing Uma good deal. Stay safe and smarter than me as usual! Lol

[@GPSJayDog22]

Nice :-) Thank you for sharing this information with us. Looks like another great product. I have three Rule floats (From West Marine so, not so cheap LOL.) type in my boat. One for the shower/galley drain sump and two in the engine compartment. There is a large stringer running between the engines thus the need for two. This new device looks great for me due to me being a toy and early adopter of really cool stuff. Love the connectivity and panels. Great job Buddy :-) Jay

[@ysesq]

looks awesome. wonder if you can get it built into a pump.

[@solarfunction1847]

I couldn't find one on amazon & the link to the company that makes them doesn't sell direct to you. I'll just settle with this 2 stage setup that I have. Just 2 float switches at different heights, the lowest to a small 6w 0.5 amp 5L/min pump at the bottom & the higher float switch if the smaller pump is overwhelmed by more water onto a 10 amp 233L/min pump. The large pump will most likely never get used much but anything up to 6 liters per min water ingress is a huge problem in itself.

[@BastienKoert]

Interesting little device, thanks!

[@jcregal3456]

A years time has passed since the installation of the Keco eco cooler. I have been waiting for an online review but what I really want to know is does the cooler plug up with marine growth? And of course, based on your experience, would you do it again or pick another path to follow? Is it worth the money?

[@SailingUma]

We'll be doing an in depth vid soon. But since you asked....We're switching to a compressor type.

[@johntripp2028]

Have you looked at the Indel Marine fridges.

[@waughthogwaugh3078]

Was just about to ask the same question...cheers

[@robertgarbe6348]

Crap I bought one and sent it to Coast Life. I hope they didn't waste their time installing it.

[@jcregal3456]

Robert, that was extremely kind, I follow Coast Life as well, they are a very nice and hard working family. I wanted to get one for my son living on the hook in Fla but I was concerned it wouldn't stand up to the marine growth living in the warm southern waters.

[@kimfucku8074]

Nice, there is always something to improve on a boat!

[@led8541]

Im glad to see you finally got one Great video smashed the thumbs up

[@MonkPetite]

Fancy system ... but you liv on it so it’s a must.. I like it a lot .. But where is that link to the website ?

[@SailingUma]

In the video description.

[@finesvandama9769]

Hey guys thanks for the great videos but where can I buy this switch? I'm in Miami?

[@annewinning5151]

Always informative and well explained

[@robertjones-zy7ym]

welcome dan and kika ..live free sail hard

[@williambunting803]

I’m going to get one. It looks good.

[@Dutchy-1168]

Good idea 👍

[@SailingSquib]

That`s what I need, a App for my bige pumpe with sensors in it. I just use the sensors on my head, I put on the switch of the bilge pump, first sensor called ears dedect, if there is water in the bilge, the same sensor dedects when the bilge is empty. The othere two sensors called nose and eyes dedect, if there is oil or fuel in the bilge. But I think this system is to simple, it never fails, no money to earn.

[@SailingUma]

But if you're not on your boat that sensor no longer works ;)

[@SailingSquib]

When I am not on bord seacocks are closed, or the boat stands on land

[@sharkfood]

Is Hefty Suzan being refrigerated or how are you doing refrigeration now?

[@crafoo]

Is it common to use dielectric grease over terminal connections in marine wiring? I Know it helps in some aerospace products.

[@SailingUma]

Yes, but corrosionX works even better.

[@bartwesp4303]

nice job with this, including the disclosure. how about a short blurb about the fridge change. i noticed the new Dometic fridge/freezer in the galley update, how did the one you had end up working out (or not?)

[@SailingUma]

We'll be doing a video all about it soon enough.

[@richardhanson2235]

So if away from the boat ya get an alert on phone of high water in bilge? 😎

[@jameshoiby]

Not sure how that would work unless it had a TCP/IP connection (WiFi or wired) and a working internet gateway so the alert could get to your phone! That would be seriously cool, though.

[@SailingUma]

That's what they're working on next. In larger boats, with highfy setups, it's pretty common to have an on shore link to monitor your boat while away. Us lil cruising boats don't often get that fancy, but it's cool to see the tech moving forward.

[@richardhanson2235]

I’m sure the technology will be out there out there soon to make remote monitoring possible. My cheap diy home alarm system relies on home WiFi to send me any alert, but for if some reason WiFi goes down it switches to cellular backup.

[@charliechapman3899]

Siren marine has the cell signal and s able to monitor bilge pumps including counter and high water. As well as many other things. I got a system recently. It’s very affordable and easy to install.

[@bdjm8595]

This is a really cool bit of equipment, very useful episode !!!

[@steedharold]

I always wanted to know the temperature of the water in my bilge, lol. Appreciate the videos, thanks for doing them.

[@scottmaschino1927]

The first thing I thought of when he said it tracked the temp in the bilge was that the folks that store beer cans there was they would know if it's cold or not. Lol

[@SailingUma]

Yeah, in the Caribbean, bilge temp isn't really an issue. But in some parts of the world, fresh water freezing in there could cause some real problems.

[@steedharold]

Honestly though, if your bilge water is freezing, you've got other issues! Think Franklin Expedition. I like the beer cooler idea better.

[@scottmaschino1927]

Typically people think the bilge is all black, greasy, slimy, smelly, and just foul. I suppose at one point in time they may have been, when using tar abs other oily pastes as sealants and bedding compounds on wooden boats, but from what I've seen most are relatively clean. Clean enough to store canned foods or drinks. Dig em out, give a quick rinse and they are gtg. Depending on how bad you want a beer the rinse may be optional. If your bilge fits the old stereotype and is of modern construction, you likely have some other issue that needs addressing.

[@davidc6510]

Cool accessory. Thanks Cheers!

[@davecarroll5989]

Great info been needed a long time

[@57koop]

Dan Dan the handyman if you can’t do it nobody can!

[@WakeforMe]

At $166 that is pretty expensive. I found a much cheaper solution: Rule automatic pump. < $100 and the water detection is based on fluid resistance rather than a mechanical switch.

[@svpearlsailacapegeorgesail4758]

Bilge switch looks interesting... maybe too soon to buy? I cant find prices

[@SailingUma]

They're for sale. I think they just redid their website since they were for sale on amazon not too long ago. But I can't seem to find them right now. I think just the switch is about $150.

[@WakeforMe]

Sailing Uma My Google-Fu is pretty good and I can't find anything with a cursory search.

[@SailingUma]

Just talked to them and found out they pulled their amazon listings to favor more traditional distribution routes through marine installers and such. I'm sure if you send them an email they'll hook you up.

[@csranch2000]

I guess you can't get one of the bilge pump setups through an affiliate link? I am trying to find the price but their web sight is vague.

[@archiecoate3904]

You should have visited me in Southampton

[@niellangner3668]

I really like the tech videos!

[@ohiorides7626]

Sweet Hockey Puck ! :)

[@jaysparc]

How about stanchion, safety lines, jack lines and harnesses?

[@SailingUma]

Next on the list. At least the Rails are. We already have harnesses and jack lines.

[@lcdemack]

Excellent vid, thanx

[@adamwackerwood2039]

perfect thanks for posting

[@ricardobrown8746]

Wow can't believe you guys never put a bilge pump in uma, how did you ever leave the boat in comfort.

[@HDRider1601]

He said they had one it was just manual on/off.

[@johntripp2028]

Having a manual one is just like not having one. You do have to sleep. You do go to restaurants.

[@jacobosborne4194]

Don’t want to be rude but I think you wanted must and not muse. Love your videos.

[@SailingUma]

haha Oops. Fixed.

[@Beekeeping_Bro]

Is this bilge switch have to be installed horizontally only ? My bilge is narrow and deep .

[@TammyNorie]

I don't need one of these, but then my bilge pump is my arm! :)

[@curtthompson4503]

Does the alarm system have a small battery back up?

[@SailingUma]

No, but if that's something you're worried about, you could install a back up battery for the entire boat.

[@hwwelds9050]

Good info. Thanks. I like learning from other people's experience. :-)

[@panteleon1]

Who is your muse instead of Kika that you already have?

[@panteleon1]

Ok now you corrected the title and our comments have no sense

[@chiefcliff]

Did you direct wire pump to have power even if batteries "turned off" to rest of boat? Thinking of whether you turn off the boat main power when you leave and whether bilge would still have power...

[@SailingUma]

We don't ever shut the main battery switch off unless we're doing work on the system. We live full time and if we leave its for a day or two to explore somewhere, so the fridge and everything is still on. Even when we we're on the hard we left everything on to run fans and such while we were not living on the boat.

[@chiefcliff]

Makes sense.

[@seanmulligan1339]

Thanks dan i just have the automatic i would want it to keep pumping until its clear of water not for just a minute

[@SailingUma]

Thats why you can set the time. Depending on how high you mount the switch you can choose how long it runs the pump to allow plenty of time for it to clear.

[@seanmulligan1339]

I guess after its cycle if it detects water it will cycle again

[@czeslawpi]

A dictionary! :)

[@gustavbork4664]

must'' Btw.. Love your videoes

[@Krisgross1974]

What happen with your other fridge

[@corybrown994]

Well I just went to there web site then to dealer don't seam to be able to buy it. and they don't sell them on there web site.

[@leaveonlywake]

None of their dealers list the product or a price either. When I cannot find a product price online I tend to think that whatever it is that is being sold, is more than likely ridiculously expensive. Why hide the cost? At least show an MSRP on the manufacturers website, if for no other reason than so that people can budget without having to send/receive an email... Makes me think they want to capture my address for a mailing list. Yuck. Interesting device. Is it resistant to EMP? ;) j/k

[@TheCSRTech]

Yep, "UNAVAILABLE" on Amazon as well.

[@captainmarkgray8856]

Now put in a high water alarm to wake you from a sleep and leak alarms at every thru hull and you will be all set. I am amazed you did not even have a cheap float (better than zipola) for 3 yrs... One short trip ashore could have sunk your boat for the lack of a $20 switch. Bad, very bad... and lucky too :-)

[@SailingUma]

It definitely made us less complacent about checking for leaks on all TH daily. The new switch also has a high water alarm built in, and it is SUPER annoying!!

[@captainmarkgray8856]

All the better to wake you when at night in 20 ft seas when it is blowing and super noisy and you are asleep totally exhausted :-) A pleasant beep beep dong dong just would not save your lives! We love you two so take saving your ship and your lives as seriously as we all do :-) o---)

[@mrnickbig1]

YOU GOT RID OF THE MUSE!

[@lyfandeth]

Don't trust the bilge switch. If it uses resistance or capacitance to sense water, like all the solid state fluid sensors, oil and dirt in the bilge eventually enchant them and they fail, just like the float switches. Nice that it has redundant circuits, but TEST IT every once in a while, complacency kills. Bilge pumps and switches are rarely faithful servants.

[@marcoantoniofederico7891]

TFSYM!

[@joeyroane5748]

when are you going to go sailing?

[@darkandlovelybrown6617]

Joey Roane wondering the same

[@justinnitsuj7041]

5:35 ...full disclosure the previous 5:35m was just a commercial...aha cool vid :/

[@tpp2001]

Get rid of the Romex wiring you have. Especially going to a bilge. It should never be used on a boat. If it also is solid it will fail over time. If the power being sent is restricted because of corrosion you'll still run but heat will increase and failure will occur. Ref Wiring: General CFR Sec. 183.425 Conductors General. Romex is a house wire. It is not approved or authorized for boat installation for a number of reasons.

[@cfeigel]

tpp2001. Thanks for posting that reference!

[@SailingUma]

It's not Romex. Looks similar, but it is proper tinned marine wire in a housing to keep it neat and tidy.

[@onthebeaches]

Yeah..you tell em Dan! You would never use Romex on a boat! How silly! Ü Ö

[@bobbobbinson1841]

Either way, im glad you brought it up. Because I, being a new small boat owner, dont know everything repair wise yet. Do's and Don't Are always helpfull to hear. Glad noone takes any offence to people politly offering possible helpfull suggestions.

[@tpp2001]

Very good. Glad to see you answered the question correctly. Tinning is not required but is a way to resist onset of corrosion other than just stranded copper. people who are putting out video's should be aware of the laws guiding electrical, water and sewage on all lengths of boats. In England and Europe having open ended connectors in the terminal box you showed is ill advised due to vibration of the boat . In the event that the screw comes loose the ring connector will not fail so easily but an open ended connector will. Plus the addition of heat shrink tubing should be added to each terminal to isolate the wire and terminal from penetration of contaminants at the crimp. Just good practice that all boat owners should follow to stay safe. simple things that get overlooked. As for the connection in the housing hopefully you didn't use an American favorite wire nut but instead a heat shrink butt connection for each wire from the device. Not trying to BYBs. But many will see your video and not understand some basics to maintain the safety integrity and reason behind it. Love your videos and the many different projects you accomplish.

[@6Sisu9]

Second

[@luckylevio]

👍🏻☀👍🏻☀👍🏻☀⛵

[@smokindauberdoo4204]

sounds expensive

[@raireva4689]

I got impression that your Southampton Boat Show experience was rather....how I can say ....underwhelming ?...

[@markjennings2315]

I'm torn between being pissed this is just a paid ad and being interested in the product.

[@574104]

First!

[@kimfucku8074]

you get a balloon 🎈 or two 🎈🎈

[@archie764]

so you replace a simple switch with a more complicated switch that simplifies your life Hmmmmm not so problem free

[@hansjensen7823]

Wow, so out of the box it failed. That could have caused a boat to be at the bottom of the sea if you hadn’t thoroughly tested and reconfigured it. Why the heck was the default programming set to run fir a second, instead of a minute or so. This product is a fail in my book.

[@SailingUma]

Why on earth would you instal a new product and not test it! Seems foolish. And no, it wouldn’t have sunk the boat, if water touches it, it turns on the pump, if water keeps touching it, it keeps running. The only difference is that when the water stopped coming in, you’d still have a few gallons left in the bilge.

[@paulspencer1130]

Please don’t become a salesman for your free items. Way too much detail on the bilge pump and it’s attributes.

[@georgesos]

I am probably the only one who thinks this is too complicated for a bilge pump (unless you have a 50 meters boat and your bilges arent accessible), Sorry but there s no way i d install all this crap on my boat.This is for boats that get abandoned in marinas and their owners visit them once a year to have a drink in the cockpit and leave.