A New Method of Installing Floor Insulation

[@marioma9175]

I used chicken wire to hold the insulation. Bend them to a U shape (4"x15" or whatever x4") to fit each bay. Stape to the floor joists at the 4" area. You don't even have to work under the joists. Cheap too.

[@tomfisher3117]

Blessings to you! I worked for modular home manufacturers for the last 30 years. We used to use garden netting. It costs $32.16 for about 1400 sq. ft. and does a good job. I hope this was helpful to you. God is GOOD!

[@aaronvallejo8220]

I dug out my crawlspace one bucket at a time over a few winters to achieve 2 feet or wiggle room. I then installed R29 batts of insulation and held in place with tinfoil foam board using large washers and screws. I then spray foamed every seam, cut and taped it all with aluminium tape. My 1910 house is now greatly more comfortable and now even renewably powered with electric heated floor slabs.

[@joeygunzilla6878]

Dedication at it's finest 😁👍 cheers 🍻

[@jonfrancis5816]

I enjoyed seeing Scripture and hearing your testimony. May the Lord Jesus Christ bless you!

[@eliasbelloso6136]

I watch this on time...thank you!!! My house needs all the flooring to be replaced and i will be using this method like i said thank you!! God bless

[@MrESage]

Bless you dear sir. And thank you very much for sharing this! Me and my wife have been brainstorming and got stumped on this part. We’re also tired and looked to you tube for answers. Thanks again.

[@jaybrown4857]

Thank you very much for house wrap tip. God bless.

[@watchmanonthewallcouk6498]

Praise God !! Great idea .. I also constantly pray for guidance whilst working especially working on my own when an extra hand is required .. the Lord has always inspired me and led me like this. Bless you sir Our God is a good good God Put your trust in him and you will have PEACE

[@4444colin]

Thank you. I am doing the exact same thing on my floor. I was going to Skip insulation due to critters under the house. I thought plywood from under the joists. Painful application. I will try this one out.👍

[@MrMichaeldsullivan]

I know it’s a pain but I would have used staples and put hardware cloth under that house wrap so no mice get into it and you’re done with it. And from past jobs, I would use one whole piece of pex without cuts in it so no chance of a leak.

[@russelllindley9269]

I am going to try to do this from under my house and I’m worried about the critters like you were. I’ve never heard of hardware cloth. Will I need to do the wrap also after using the hardware cloth?

[@wooski9022]

Damn I wish I had watched this video a few months ago.... I had to tear down and rebuild a 12x26 kitchen addition on the back of a home and we are finishing up with the drywall and trim now, but this is a good method. Menard’s has a 4x100 roll of insulation fabric which is basically just landscape fabric from the looks of it, but I would use blow in cellulose since it’s much cheaper than batts. I’ll be sure to remember this next time though, thanks for the video and tip!

[@diycurious6471]

Its a bit late but insulation only works properly when all 6 surfaces are touching framing or osb etc. as you have not filled the cavity, air will circulate ( convection ) in the space and so will much reduce the R value, filling the cavity reduces air movement and thus allows the fibre glass to work up to spec. Its like down or most other products it works by trapping small pockets of air/ gas. Also ridged expanded polystyrene Would work better as it would form a thermal bridge, the foam board should be glued and screewed to the frae to stop air infiltration. Assuming there is a path for humidity to move upward through the floor there should be no mold issues

[@brendascally116]

I've been trying to solve a problem of my own. Seems like I could channel the plumbing lines in the polystyrene board and cover with another shallow styrene board and cover with a trap door so in that one spot we could access plumbing to make any repairs. We don't have enough room to crawl around underneath. Now to keep the rodents out.

[@savardconstruction]

Nice tips!

[@anzbatman2297]

Praise Jesus! Cheers bro

[@ebox008]

Real nice. Please remember even if the insulation is faced it has to be able to breathe. Also you can get chicken wire cut it in 6 inch strips and staple them to the bottom of the wood 1 foot a part.

[@savardconstruction]

See my reply below about breathability issue.

[@DoYouDJ]

Good place to put a moisture sensor near all those pex connectors. Looks good. Also I heard a great tip about mice eating pex for desert. Save up chili pepper packets from pizza delivery and mix in water bottle sprayer, this will need to be applied to pipes and prevents em from eating thru, most likely looking for water.

[@savardconstruction]

Thanks for the input

[@savardconstruction]

Thanks for the input.

[@wacandthewalnuts]

Great idea.

[@grolfe3210]

Bad idea. The sheet does not allow any air flow to the timbers. You create a warm space above the insulation that can get condensation in that then has nowhere to go. Use an air permeable membrane, like the stuff they sell to put under roof tiles. put it higher, half way up the beam so that it is up touching the floor timber then it will not have a hot void.

[@brendascally116]

I love it when God reveals things to us. This is an amazing work around. I am trying to do a similar thing but I am concerned because we have a pier and beam shallow foundation of about 12 inches (less in most other spots). Trying to insulate for a colder climate, use a vapor barrier and keep the rodents out. Not quite sure how to do all this from above. If we close up the foundation by pinning the ledge and pouring a footing, we no longer have access for any plumbing repairs for the kitchen as there isn't enough room for a crawl space. Looking for ideas.

[@damonphalin6023]

Using screen works great. Holds up insulation and keeps bugs and mice out.

[@patrickortiz2898]

Should have made a larger crawl space

[@grassroots9304]

Giving credit to the Lord: amen and well done. Acts 12:23.

[@user-ro2po4zl6o]

Love the idea

[@jamespriddy8275]

I’m not a believer. But I’m pretty good at innovation. Don’t mind knowing that figuring things out is what brought on the Industrial Revolution. Our scientists do it every day. I was raised like you guys but I also spent years observing, getting the same results with many repeated ideas, and then drawing conclusions. I studied not to reinforce my early beliefs, but to find truth no matter where it led. Didn’t have any idea I would become atheist. That’s not a bad word. My morals didn’t change, I didn’t go looking to commit sins, and I sure didn’t start plotting against believers. I simply no longer believed. I’ve never cheated on my wife, love my dogs, and aim a good neighbor. Unless a conversation leads that way, they never know I’m not a believer. I hope you guys can learn that we atheists are exactly like you. Some good, some choosing to do bad things. We just no longer feel guilty all the time. That was a heavy load. I just stopped in to get ideas and build on my experience. Thanks. Good ideas.

[@savardconstruction]

@jamespriddy8275 appreciate the comments. Not intended in a bad way, just curious what you use as the standard in order to determine what are "good" things and what are "bad" things? And why does it matter if one does good or bad? Is death the end of everything?

[@jamespriddy8275]

@@savardconstruction bad things are those which are harmful to the well being of others. We all know inherently if our action and words are harmful to others. It’s not a difficult concept. Some just choose to be more selfish or downright evil….just like believers.

[@savardconstruction]

@jamespriddy8275 it's admirable to follow the principle of Love. In that way, you are a believer, a believer in love as a way of life. In case you didn't know, the Bible says that all the law and teachings are fulfilled in this one word - to love your neighbor as yourself.

[@jeffcole1914]

Thank you for your testimony he deserves our praise

[@wilsontaborda6104]

What I was looking for, thank you

[@savardconstruction]

You're welcome, glad it helped

[@miltonguzman5779]

That’s a great idea. Thank you for the tip

[@Kalixadam9977]

My favourite part of the video is that you start out by saying you credit every good idea to the Lord I can’t agree with you more brother

[@loduke3905]

I instructed my contractors to use hardware cloth and tyvek, they of course did not and cheaped out by doing only tyvek. I was not aware until just recently when I saw 👀 my insulation hanging down. I had to stick my phone under the house and make a video to even see it as my clearance is only 6 inches (don’t even get me started on that). After spending $500-600 on brand new R30….Guess what? Critters sure enough have pulled parts of it down, made themselves a home and now I’m having to take out the subfloor and redo this whole mess! USE HARDWARE CLOTH! It’s easy to do it from the top! You can still do the tyvek and that will help work as a barrier that also will allow the insulation to breathe. Or just use rigid foam! Either way, please do not do this without something protecting it from being pulled down! You’ll regret it, more than you even know.

[@kamalalove6083]

Great tip. Thanks for sharing this. Sorry to hear about your struggle and I will follow your advice. Mine is about 12” so no one can crawl under 😞

[@ssdresearch001]

Brilliant!

[@paulettepier5526]

THANKS SO MUCH !! Now what I want to know is..is the house wrap animal proof?? I am building a porch & part of it I'm in hopes to be a utility room...problem with my old utility room, I just put chicken wire & the fiberglass insulation under the floor and critters have gotten under & bedded or torn it all up. The space is like this..too close to crawl under, (and my water line to washer busted..) so I am moving utility room to sunny side (which will be porch...and that will be quite a bit higher from ground..allowing a good 'crawl space'....I am doing this on my own...with our LORD JESUS' help with wisdom & strength. Thanks again & I sure hope u get this message..i need to know if it's 'critter' proof...

[@savardconstruction]

Don't know if this is too late, but an animal could eventually tear through the housewrap though it is rather tough and may keep them from seeing the insulation (especially if you tape the joints with Tyvek tape). Best advice would be to try and seal the skirting around the house to keep critters from being able to get under the house.

[@wilhallman2890]

Here in Maine rats will chew into just about anything, so I'm using metal lath embedded in spray foam.

[@karlhungus545]

@@savardconstruction Yes, mice will chew through housewrap no problem. Roxul might work better as it apparently repels mice. I did my entire last house with Roxul, but they didn't have access to it in the walls obviously, so I would like to know if it actually does keep them out.

[@rb3158]

This will only work if you install vapour barrier under your subfloor. When cold air from below meets warm air from floor you will get condensation sitting on your house wrap causing mold.

[@kamalalove6083]

I’m turning a beach cottage into a four season house and I’m worried about the same thing: the Vapor barrier is super important! Isn’t the house wrap he’s using also a vapor barrier? Forgive me, I’m totally new to this. Your answer will help me. I need the subfloor replaced (I have a dirt crawl space and it’s only 16 inches deep). Thank you in advance

[@Blinky114]

It LOOKS beautiful. Nice and neat. However, what you've just done is place a vapor barrier under your insulation, thereby creating a perfect environment for mold, right between that house wrap and your subfloor. The lord works in mysterious ways.

[@paulettepier5526]

Mark Baker...so this is not a good idea?? even if off the ground more???

[@savardconstruction]

I'm certainly no expert on the matter, but I know that housewrap is specifically designed to be breathable from the inside (side with no writing) to the outside. If you think about a normal wall with gypsum on one side sealed and caulked and osb on the other side with housewrap and then siding sealed and caulked, this would also technically be insulation sandwiched between two vapor barriers (housewrap on the outside and paper facing of the insulation on the inside). My thoughts were that the breathability of the housewrap provides enough air circulation for the insulation to breathe just like there is enough air in normal walls to keep mold from growing.

[@ssdresearch001]

Lowe's house wrap is vapor permeable [1] with a perm rating of 12 [1]. So the Lord hath saved David from the mechanism of mold creation mentioned by Mark Baker. [1] www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers [2] www.lowes.com/pd/Lowe-s-3-ft-x-100-ft-House-Wrap/1000203329

[@cjones0867]

What a jerk comment

[@coleagnew1188]

Could have hammered nails and tied rope?

[@mikalrobinson8678]

So you are going to get a warm, moist area below the house wrap coming from the ground and dirt. I would have recommended first a vapor barrier on the soil, tight around edges. You could even apply a simple spray of diluted clorox first all around to knock down the spores. Lay down the barrier, and then apply this method-- with positive ventilation to keep that crawl space circulating dryer air. Real dilemma you have raised with no vapor barrier. Hmmm.

[@JohnDoe-zl6qw]

What if doing this over sealed concrete slab or concrete covered with plastic? Would it avoid the warm, moist area below the house wrap?

[@DerekTJ]

The joists should be outside the barrier.

[@frankstantonjr1153]

good idea

[@chargersfanonly1]

were you ever worried about moisture build up? also doesn't the insulation have to be tight to the underside of the floor plywood to have full effect?

[@savardconstruction]

In principle, there's really no difference between the floor application and the way insulation is sandwiched between sheathing and vapor barriers in typical wall. However, the crawlspace itself needs to be properly ventilated. Regarding being tight against plywood, i don't think so. There are many applications where an air space is a critical part of the insulation. In this case, I'm not sure if it adds any r-value, but as long as the insulation is fitted well, i don't believe not being tight against the floor will make any substantial difference.

[@chargersfanonly1]

@@savardconstruction Great, thanks dave! So you think tyvek is a better option than poly?

[@ssdresearch001]

Having an air space between the insulation and underside of the plywood can even be an advantage. One can create a radiant barrier by (1) using insulation with a radiant barrier foil on one side and (2) placing the insulation so that the foil faces the air space and underside of the plywood. More generally one should consider how super heated air would flow through air spaces in case of a fire, particularly inside a wall cavity.

[@ssdresearch001]

@@chargersfanonly1 Poly would not be vapor permeable unlike Tyvek or Lowe's House Wrap used by David

[@anonymousperson4363]

I too thank you for revealing this tip, but I was wondering about the UV exposure deteriorating the wrap.

[@JohnDoe-zl6qw]

There won't be UV exposure as this is an interior subfloor completely hidden from the sun.

[@grahamcole4240]

Why drill the beams for the pipework when there is a gap underneath where they could go?

[@savardconstruction]

They need to be above the insulation to prevent freezing 🥶

[@cubul32]

Hi David. I need to pick your brains about this. I wanna do the same. Aren't animals going to chew through the house wrap? Did you have any issues with this system so far?

[@savardconstruction]

I did the job to help a friend, so I don't know how it has held up for him regarding critters. If you don't have skirting around the perimeter, one option is to staple hardware cloth as a repellent from vermin

[@cubul32]

@@savardconstruction yeah, will do the hardware cloth

[@CraneGuru]

But isn't that a moisture barrier ?? A moisture barrier is to be used under the floor itself, which allows the insulation to breath. (you never moisture barrier the outer edge (cold edge) of an insulated area) By putting moisture barrier on the bottom - you are inviting moisture to form and saturate your insulation. Might look neat and clean - but it's going to promote rotting / mold, along with inviting rodents to chew through it to enter the "plushy" insulation. This will work for a year or two before you notice molding and critter infestation . The proper way would have been to line the bottom with foam board all the way across. It would not only stop the moisture worries, but rodents tend to avoid foam board and as a triple advantage - - By covering the bottoms of the floor joists - you would be eliminating thermal bridge loss through the joists. Top off a great job with the foil lined "bubble wrap" between the top of your floor joists and the top floor covering. Bridging would be completely blocked and the foil lined bubble wrap serves as the moisture barrier which you SHOUL apply on the area facing the warmed / cooled area (not the outdoor area Noce Idea - Just too bad you created more headaches for yourself down the road

[@wilhallman2890]

It is a moisture barrier, but only one way really. It will allow any moisture to go out, but not in. So if someone spilled something on the floor, it could wick out.

[@joeygunzilla6878]

@@wilhallman2890 correct house wrap is a vapor permeable material and it "breathes" in one direction

[@joeygunzilla6878]

In your example.. Wouldn't you be creating a sort of locked in airtight stud bays? From what I understand is, airtight = no good. Also, In your scenario.. would you have batt or any other insulation in the stud bays between the 2 barriers as well? Thanks for any help, take care✌️😎

[@mannie912]

Question: why not use foam insulation between the joists?

[@savardconstruction]

You can use foam. The only challenge is every piece has to be cut to fit and does not flex much for minor discrepancies.

[@psiewert83]

Didn't realize it was within code to demolish a joist by drilling multiple holes through it.....

[@showme360]

How does the timber breath? Dry rot here we come... good lord!!

[@savardconstruction]

The same way walls do with insulation, sheathing, vapor wrap, and siding on the exterior as well as being covered by gypsum on the interior. Vapor wrap is air permeable.

[@CraneGuru]

Moisture barrier on the bottom is a recipe for disaster Not to mention - critters will chew through that in 20 seconds and nest in the fiberglass while chewong on your electrical lines / pipes. NEVER put moisture barrier on the exposed side of a project !! I use foam board all the way across - -Rodents don't seem to like chewing it and it eliminated the heat loss from bridging

[@robertsimmons1264]

No such thing as "dry rot". It starts with moisture.

[@CaptRico]

​@@CraneGuru So instead of vapor barrier your using foam board then the insulation material then the floor boards. But how do you secure the foam board in place ?

[@johncritch6812]

What about condensation

[@llahsramavt4097]

Good video. Thanks. Does the insulation have backing?

[@savardconstruction]

Sorry for the late reply, but yes and it alwys faces toward the gmheated side.

[@ricardourrutia3900]

Thanks bro

[@jasblick9984]

Great idea. God bless

[@1eyeMonkey]

Don’t you run the risk of the water lines leaking and the house wrap holding it in creating a mold issue?

[@bbrock460200]

House wrap is designed to let water escape, and air in. Should be ok.

[@deanjones7220]

Thanks Brother David. I was looking for a video just like this. I have the same type of set up with the shallow crawlspace. I was thinking of going with a thick foam board versus fiberglass batts. Would this work too? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. God bless you!!

[@savardconstruction]

Foam board would work well and would be even better against any possible moisture. Just more work to fit it between the joists, unless u were talking about stapling the foam board to the bottom of the joists.

[@deanjones7220]

@@savardconstruction Thanks! One more question; currently it looks like previously put roofing paper over the original heart pine tongue and groove subfloor, and laid plywood on top of it. I want to go back down to the original floor if it is level enough. When insulating, could I just run a vapor barrier over the dirt crawlspace, and call it good? Or should I use the wrap like you did to hold the foam board in place. My house is framed out of Barn wood, and I want it to be able to breathe well. Thanks!

[@savardconstruction]

@@deanjones7220 if u didn't use the wrap, what would hold the foam board? Would it just be friction fit? That may fall out over time through expansion and contraction. But if you find a way to secure the boards, I think vapor barrier on the dirt would be fine.

[@deanjones7220]

@@savardconstruction Thanks!

[@robertsimmons1264]

@@savardconstruction use ledgers along the bottom of the joists to hold the foam board.

[@jwall62]

So, 3 years later , how has this held up? Have you looked for critters under there?

[@savardconstruction]

I helped a friend with this who lives an hour away. Some time after, he was having moisture buildup under his house, and called me, but that was because he covered all the vents underneath the house with insulation for the cold. As soon as we uncovered those and it could breathe again, things were good. Besides that, haven't been there in a few years. No calls makes me think it's doing fine.

[@CraneGuru]

The moisture build up came from wrapping moisture barrier under the floor which trapped moisture in. This project is all 100%, ass backwards Guaranteed you had critters chew through that moisture barrier and set up camp in the cushy fiberglass

[@ezequielprado3259]

Hey David I am currently replacing insulation and subfloor to a mobile home. Would you also recommend this method on my mobile home project ?

[@savardconstruction]

If it were mine and it was too hard to access from below, I would. Just make sure the crawl space is vented around the perimeter just like soffits need to have ventilation as well

[@Pallidus_Rider]

KZbin recommended this video

[@terrisebring1151]

Won't the critters still get up under your floor?

[@savardconstruction]

In this case, the house had skirting around it. But you could use hardware cloth as some suggested if you want to more fully protect it.

[@anthonycraig274]

Oh god! I couldn’t get past the first 5 seconds.

[@j7juan463]

So? Is this a good idea? Or bad? Because I'm working on my mobile home and the old insulation is just a mess.... And my plan is to put Plastic on the bottom that way I keep them nice and good looking....

[@j7juan463]

But? Is it okay to do it like this?

[@ssdresearch001]

Plastic would likely not be vapor permeable and could cause a problem like the one mentioned above by Mark Baker. However, if you use a vapor permeable membrane like the Lowe's House Wrap used by David, then you should be OK.

[@BeljicaPeak]

I used 1/2" hardware cloth for a bathroom floor. Bent the long edges up a couple of inches and fastened between the joists to hold up the insulation and keep the rodents out. We have a rodent problem in our cold desert Orchard Country and there is dirt around skirting and under house, with numerous gaps, mostly impossible to seal without a lot of time and work. I was able to cut & bend hardware cloth around drains and supply lines. Then dropped insulation on top. No crawling under. It might be too expensive or time-consuming for a larger space. I do like the house wrap idea and will do that on the other bathroom then hardware cloth on top to keep the furry things out.

[@Inspectorzinn2]

​@@ssdresearch001 spray foam is a non permeable vapor barrier but it's touted to be the best and nobody has issue with vapor buildup. I still don't get why people panic when plastic is involved. If you seal the bottom with plastic and the top with plastic, it's essentially airtight, water isn't going to spontaneously appear there. Vapor barriers seem to be the least understood and most debated topic, yet appear to be very important. The only thing I've seen a consensus on is that spray foam is the best lol.

[@Inspectorzinn2]

@@BeljicaPeak I really like that idea!

[@karolkupec2044]

And when you get water leak all your insulation including wood will be destroyed. Praise the lord, let’s instal hard styrofoam insulation above the water lines. God bless you all

[@savardconstruction]

The wood is pressure treated so a leak will not ruin it, and insulation can be dried out if it gets wet. But Styrofoam does have some advantages though it is more expensive and harder to install. Thanks for the comment 👍

[@cristianoyarzun713]

Do you mean The Lord of the rings?

[@mazinga5159]

Use chicken mesh 😂

[@omegaman7241]

horrible... need ridged insulation. if you get water in it you have to rip it all up

[@fenderstrat6519]

You don’t want insulation under your floor: just good poly

[@birdguy05761]

Great vid, hate the Jesus stuff

[@savardconstruction]

@@birdguy05761 glad you liked it.

[@juniperman]

Unless you are going to give the house to the poor you are not “ striving to fallow the example of Christ " it’s a slimy cheesy thing to do and a direct violation of the third commandment.

[@savardconstruction]

Not sure if you consider yourself a believer, but you should consider what it means to exhort others instead of condemning. The house was not my house to give away, it was done to help a friend fix some problems at a very reasonable wage compared to other contractors. Paul followed the example of Christ and yet still made tents to help support his ministry. The Word does not call him a blasphemer for doing that. We can and should invite Him to be a part of every act and service we do.

[@juniperman]

@@savardconstruction and by the way I’m a licensed building contractor that why it enrages me when pseudo " believers " like you and Jim Bakker use the lords name for self promotion

[@rumsiker]

Brain washed by lord house