Comparing 5 Different Subfloor Systems and What They Cost

[@unboxerman12]

This channel has been invaluable as a new homeowner. Even with good diy skills having so much info presented so efficiently in one place is amazing.

[@mldowning]

Agreed, I always come here first before embarking on my nearly daily trip to Lowes

[@1193bobmcc]

😅

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Great to hear! We always try to provide an objective opinion and many solutions to the same problem as possible. Cheers!

[@JustNel]

I'm not even a home owner and i have watched for a few years now

[@DrDrogen]

I want to say how much I appreciate your no bullshit, straight to the meat videos. I'm happy to not listen to stupid rock music or other bs and it's all info no fluff. Keep up the good work.

[@albertm8576]

Jeff I don’t think there’s anyone out there as knowledgeable and willing to help us all out the way you do. Love your channel and keep up the great work!

[@danielm4849]

I love this channel so much. We bought a house in southern BC (Nelson), built in 1973, and it's a pretty humid house, even in the winter. I'm doing our basement right now and have gone with the Barricade Thermal Armor HDF panels. They actually cost pretty much the same as the other Barricade products per unit (at our Rona here in town) but are larger so it worked out cheaper. About 1400 for 650sqft after tax. I chose this as it offered the best R-Value and being an old house with just baseboard heat, we're trying to make it as warm as possible in the basement for family and friends to come and stay as that's where the guest suite is. There are some foundation issues as it's build on a very wet hill, so the foam board right on the floor wasn't an option for us. But this video definitely explained in 5 minutes what it took me about 2 hours of reading online to ascertain! Thanks so much for all the videos and content, it really does help all us so, so much!

[@jeffcustrin5797]

I have the dmx one step with laminate 12mm flooring on top .Works great floor is warm and quiet .Old house new foundation with poly under slab. Keep up the great videos !

[@jemiller4x4v8]

When I gutted my basement a few years ago down to concrete walls and floor, I went with 1" XPS foam boards on the walls and in the rim joist and DMX dimple mat on the floor. Laid down Vinyl planks directly over the dimple mat. I haven't had a single issue with my basement that was built in 1970. I am located in the midwest and go through all 4 seasons. I also put in a new sump pit during this time since the old one was not done right. Kuddos to your channel and the knowledge from my dad. Saved a ton of money doing it myself.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

well done my man! just keep an eye on grading over time to make sure you don't have water running down the foundation wall. Cheers!

[@GTOjoe6.0]

I'm currently in the same boat you're in now. I was looking at using 1" XPS but everywhere I look online everyone recommends using 2" XPS. The problem is 2" XPS foam is sold out everywhere currently. I take it the 1" XPS is enough to provide the necessary vapor barrier I need? also in the midwest. St. Louis, MO suburbs

[@jemiller4x4v8]

@@GTOjoe6.0 From my research, the 1" would give me enough to be a vapor retarder. 2" would have given me a moisture barrier. I installed it so any moisture that did get on the inside would run down the wall and under my dimple map. I only ran the glue vertical when putting up the foam boards. I did tape plastic on a few spots to test for moisture before installing. I also have excellent grading away from my house and relieve any hydro pressure with my new sump pit I installed. FYI...I just checked Menards and they have a ton of 2" in stock.

[@GTOjoe6.0]

@Jake Miller I'd like to go with the 2" polyiso by johns manville. I didn't see any online, what menards did you check? I live near the Menards in saint peters, mo

[@snowwhite2709]

We're in southern Ontario. Ripping out an old wood subfloor that needs to come out. The basement, when we redo it, will be redone with laminate throughout, besides the bathroom which we may tile or use vinyl flooring. We wish to have a barrier from the cold concrete below, and protection in the event of moisture or a touch of water, which we're not aware of having any water problem. If you recommend something, like to know if you need to attach with tapcons, we prefer no to, however if it's the best option we would. Prefer no clicking when you walk, but heard you can put something under the plastic underlay, DMX, bubble product etc, so it doesn't click. Thanks

[@Slakk6396]

You are hands down the BEST DIY instructor on youtube, I love how you break things down and basically explain the end from the beginning. Just a quick question, when it comes to adding a bedroom/bathroom to a basement, how do you deal with a finite height while also maintaining a good sound absorption?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

insulate the cavities and then uncouple the ceiling with resilient channel or sound board like sonopan! Cheers!

[@nicolasgill9907]

Hi Jeff, I'm a huge fan! I'm planning a full basement reno in my 1950's home. I live in Salmo, BC so I'm looking for a flooring solution that takes into consideration moisture and thermal ... and what makes it even more challenging is I'm also dealing with a relatively low clearance ceiling so need to keep the subfloor as thin as possibly without sacrificing comfort as this will be a rental suite. Thanks for your help and giving us the confidence to tackle these projects alone :)

[@stevek3627]

Jeff great video and oh so timely. We have a room that used to be half of a two car garage now turned bedroom. The house was built in 1989 and the area we want to cover is approx 15'x16'. Not concerned about moisture but really need thermal. Wife wants wall to wall carpet. Suggestions? Thanks for all you do! Great channel

[@moonwolf3378]

You forgot price range for the blue dimple DMX OneStep. It’s about .78 cents per sf. at HD. I used it for my basement grow room thx to ur older video. Now iM using it for the rest of the basement as it worked just fine. Plus I don’t want to lose inches in an already low ceiling environment. Thank you for the new fresh update and the info u squeeze into every vid. We live in MA. I’m a wife of a great man that is not handy. We speak Spanish. We call you El Canadiense. Whenever my husband wants to argue w me about how to do an HI task, I just say El Canadiense said and he complies. 😂

[@ianfawcett5265]

😂😂😂

[@adamhowe8058]

Foundation poured 1909. Will be fully waterproofed with an interior drain tile, sump pump, battery backup, and DMX drainage board on the walls from grade level all the way down directly into the drain tile. We live in chicago so freeze/thaw cycles are a problem. There are cracks in the basement floor and it’s not level. We also have floor drains but a one-way check valve on the sewer line so backups are no longer a concern. What do you suggest: regular DMX with OSB, DMX 1-step with OSB, or foam board with OSB? The ground gets COLD here in the winter so thermal break would be awesome but don’t want to discount moisture management if DMX. We plan to build interior walls on top of the floor, whatever we choose.

[@josephpaulson4479]

I used your old system of the big roll of DMX with OSB on top to finish my basement. Worked great. Thanks for all your videos!

[@khgma]

It's been a year, how has the DMX and then OSB work out? I am thinking DMX 1 step then OSB sealed with tite bond tape then paint

[@simmonslucas]

Dude, your videos always quickly explain products and rationalize the processes. We are building a new home slab on grade, and we just want the thermal break. I was looking at products that were more complicated than I needed. Thanks!

[@NomenclaturalMan]

What an excellent channel, I have learned so much in regards to DIY. Back when Covid first hit in 2020, I watched your channel to learn how to build a deck, and after about a month straight of hardwork, I remodeled our entire deck and added a staircase that I am damn proud of for a first major DIY build. Here I am on one heck of a building kick again, learning all I can from you folks!

[@jasc2989]

Amazing video.. deciding between this just last week, for Cottage in Kawarthas, Canada, floors were spongy from high water levels (flood/ lock systems) Pulled off all old floor was In this order top down Vinyl floor/plywood/ clear plastic sheet 1x1's and silverfoam like durofoam in video.. then concrete pad n bedrock under that.. Out problem rose with plastic water barrier right underplywood.. The plastic vapor sheet,( held all the water/ not allowing it to drain down.. ) This video is awesome.. We are now going with blue/ black dimple stuff on concrete/silver foam from already having them, brand-new plywood n then lvl.. Definitely love your videos/ information.. Not long over drawn perfect direct all you need and nothing more!!! Amazing Tempo/ information Thank you again!! E & J

[@andrewwong7912]

Hey Jeff! I watched a ton of your previous videos on flooring and just finished the living room in my basement (1969). I decided to go with the DMX over the DRICORE not only because I was worried about water and moisture but also the cost. The difference in price between the "regular" DRICORE and the DMX was a difference of 500$ in my area for a 300 sqft space. My basement has a slope going towards the drain and when I measured the distances, it fell within the range without filing (1/2"inch over 4ft). Therefore technically I would not have fill gaps etc. If I were to do this project again I would most likely invest more so that I could have my entire subfloor as level as it can be. I am seeing the results of placing my 7mm rigid vinyl flooring over the DMX as well as trying to align all of the baseboards and quarter rounds. Compared to the other products, there is no way to level DMX than to use self leveler or just fill with concrete. DRICORE sells plastic shims that will level each sheet as you progress and I assume with the Durofoam you can shave off and add pieces to fix this problem as well? Also with DMX they advertised a lot that there would be a great difference in temperature when compared to the DRICORE, I would have to say that this is false. My floors are not ice cold but they are not as warm as I thought they would be either. Keep up the great videos they have been a lot of help for me!!! P.S I am about to put in door frames that are not prehung, could you possibly make a video in the future on how to put them up starting from scratch! :D

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I will consider that. Cheers!

[@SaahilSethy]

@ Andrew Wong I have the scenario in basement as you had. I have option for Dricore and DMX, which system do you still prefer ? Your advise will be appreciated since you have gone through this !

[@andrewwong7912]

@@SaahilSethy if you have water problems I think Jeff still suggests using the DMX but if not I would do dricore so that the floor is as level as can be. He recently posted another video with the foam as a subfloor it looks decent as well!

[@SaahilSethy]

@@andrewwong7912 Thanks Andrew

[@dawnpatton-valentine3234]

I absolutely love all of your videos! All of the details really help to do it myself. I have a lot of experience doing different remodeling projects over the years. KZbin has been a place to get knowledge in the last few years. I recently discovered your videos and now I am able to get very clear steps on multiple different projects. Thank you so much!❤

[@FITXnHUGS]

When I did the subfloor in my basement, I went with the foundation membrane, with the foil backed foam, then 5/8" osb on top. Sure it's a little thick, but no worst then the 2×4 and osb that was ripped up. With the cold Canadian winters it was a great investment.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

great solution, water management and thermal break. Cheers!

[@aujla23]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY hi, can you put laminate directly on the foundation membrane foam sheets?

[@qinglinluan754]

for your foil-backed foam, which side does the foil face? we are considering doing so for our old garage, which is 5 inches below grade. has issues of both moistures coming up and inside down. Also, how did you anchor the OSB to the foam? Thank you

[@jk-zm2fs]

I live in Canada too, in a 50 yr old townhouse. For the basement poured concrete floor, I am thinking of putting the foundation wrap with 4x8 tongue and groove plywood, not OSB, and using a minimal amount of tapcons. At the joints of the foundation wrap, use that red tape to seal it. Use construction adhesive on top of the wrap to connect to the plywood. Comments? I really don't like OSB because of the off-gassing and the breakdown with moisture.

[@FITXnHUGS]

@jk-zm2fs Chances are the adhesive won't stick to the foundation wrap. I ended up having to redo the subfloor due to a sump pump failure, and when I was pulling it up, the adhesive didn't stay stuck to it. The new subfloor, I used the same foundation wrap, foam, T&G osb, and tapcons. I put about 6 tapcons per 4'×8' sheet and found that held everything in place nicely. If you go too close to the edge, you will end up with the center of the sheets bowing. Anything smaller than 24" I used a single row in the middle. No adhesive.

[@geoffb2855]

Boom!! #3. You're videos are always amazing. You're so clear and concise about the details. Love it! Thank you.

[@HiFlyer371]

I'm in Omaha and did my basement 4th bedroom and bath in Dricore almost 15 years ago. I hate cold basements so I also lined the cinderblock walls with 2 inch pink foamboard, then a 2X4 stud wall insolated with fiberglass bats. People are amazed at how warm the downstairs apartment is.

[@baxt1412]

What a small world - Omaha DIYer here too!

[@canadude6401]

I only wish more people did foam board or foam insulation, it is a game changer for basements. I am in the finishing stages of my 2004 basement is as warm as the main level, and I know the difference was immediately felt after the spray foam application in the rim joists and the walls. I added batt as well to the partially empty 2x4 cavities and re-used the pink fiberglass into the rim joists. I could lay ice on the floor and the basement would be just as warm. I want with DMX 1 step, and the thermal break alone does a good job. There really is nowhere for the heat to escape!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@WintzWorld]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Can I build my 2x4 walls on top of the DMX step 1? If I insulate the walls with pink batt insulation do I need an air gap of 1" or is foam board a better option first and then batt? Great videos Jeff!

[@melissamatos1664]

hello hi flyer, im also redoing my basement, i have no water issues. im more concerned with moisture. my question is if i use foamboard on the cinder block walls and then bat insolation my stud walls, should i be worried about condensation behind my walls? im thinking if i use non backing insulation, and including the air space between the wall and foam should be enough to keep things dry back there. thoughts? JEFF, you are THE BEST, thank you for everything you do!

[@malikrahman8562]

12:14 I We have a sunken room in our home that floods about 6 inches through a sliding glass door in conditions like the current California rainstorms when street drains are clogged. Obviously any padded or floating flooring would not be suitable and ceramic tiles run risk of cracks if the subfloor slab develops cracks or settling. What would be the best option for us? How do we protect the walls of that room inside and out?

[@twincitiesberrycompany8723]

Great explanations of the options! I'm going with the insul armor for my 110 yr old house's basement, in Minnesota because: - Thermal barrier (r value of 4.1) - Water/vapor management built right in - Thinner than combining durofoam + dimples - Easiest to get into my narrow basement ( I had to cut my 8x4 drywall in half to get them into the basement space it was awful) It is a little more expensive, but actually in the US, they just announced a 30% tax credit for home insulation modifications; save those receipts!

[@aliciadonohue9001]

Your videos are so informative and inspiring. Thank you. Our North Idaho home is 1954 “per records” and our cracked basement wall, rotted window frames and the lack of gutters created a huge water problem that destroyed the nice existing pergo floor. We have had all of the issues resolved and are now looking to replace the flooring. The previous subfloor was simply 2 layers of plywood. We currently have a rough and ugly concrete floor. We are going to do the moisture test with the plastic bag tomorrow to determine if we need the dimpled roll.

[@jmcguire56]

10 years ago we finished half the basement. I installed a Dri Core sub floor on my own and then had wall to wall carpeting installed. A few years later the hot water heater sprung a leak and the water travelled UNDER the floor to another side of the basement (its an old house with nothing level). The Dri Core subfloor saved my bacon.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

well played. Cheers!

[@ZhefeiLi]

Do you still need to remove the floor to let it dry out? I have a ripped up floor right now and considering what to put back down

[@jmcguire56]

@@ZhefeiLi nope. Left the floor as is since the water never touched the OSB side. I did put some fans down to blow air under the floor to dry the floor out.

[@davidrobins4025]

Another excellent video on how to do sub flooring. I'm in a new home and have yet do do the flooring for my lower level living. This is a tremendous help Thank You.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful! Cheers you got this!

[@michaelzwatty4172]

I watch your videos all the time, THANK YOU! As it turns out, I’m currently in the process of finishing my basement in the United States. I’ve never had water issues in my basement but it was built in 1989 and we live on a hill. What kind of subfloor options would you recommend?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

that depends on geography. northern climate get a thermal break. in the south perhaps just the dmx 2 in 1 for a little sound control. Cheers!

[@sixchaulks]

First of all. You are just awesome. Love these videos. My house was built 1984 Floor is in basement Concrete We are having the walls in the room sealed professionally. Wall leaks. We just bought the house. We just had a ton of rain before new years. Had to pull up old laminate flooring with just a regular cushion underlay. It stunk with mildew. So bad. By this video my options are the blue dimple underlay or the OSB square with plastic. For some reason my vinyl plank that is waterproof, 6.5 mm thick says to not use a dimple underlay. Infact it says no underlay at all. This is also a room we are converting to a kitchen. Thoughts

[@christopherrockel2676]

Planning for a big enough window in your basement to get any of these products in is a fantastic tip. Thanks Jeff 🙂

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

You bet! besides, natural light ion a basement is a great idea. Cheers!

[@mv80401]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I self-installed a Euro style tilt and turn window 48x48 for that very reason, plus much safer egress than this existing slider, and better insulation.

[@elqortbi]

Careful! The purple insulamor is so thick that if will give you trouble to install reducer. You will have to make custom reducers

[@mnoble247]

Just wanted to say thanks. Just did DMX dimple board and 7/16 OSB on basement slab. I like the fact with DMX I can tape and get a continuous vapor barrier, easy to install and cost effective.

[@coypotts23]

Don't have a basement, still watched just to learn. Many moons ago you did a Q&A talking about how to source products through a wholesaler. Several large projects in my house were made possible because of this information and sweat equity.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Love a good deal. Happy to hear that info saved you money. Cheers!

[@XYZ-Drafting_and_Designs]

Great channel. Lots of knowledge. I love how you talk about building science as well. Thanks

[@WillyDrucker]

Another good one Jeff, informative. Which of these would you use if you're considering normal carpet? Underlayment thickness and ultimately ceiling height is a bigger concern.

[@hamesworth]

Following

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I would install the carpet direct on to the concrete. modern floors have a vapor barrier under the pad and the new carpets and underpads are made to almost eliminate the risk of mold and mildew build up. If it ism dry then just drop it and use a high quality pad with an average carpet for best results vs performance and cost. Cheers Willy!

[@WillyDrucker]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Interesting, good options. As usual, thanks.

[@johnhowgego5903]

Great work. I have a 1969 northern Ontario bungalow and finishing it. I’m looking for thermal break on the floor. Was looking at dmx but I want warmth on my floor too. Northern Ontario remember. I have some effervescent white powder marks from concrete sweat in some areas. No water seepage concern as I am elevated and downspouts away from house.

[@alexvancampenhout]

Another stellar video, Jeff! Thank you! Question - we have a house built in 1970, no moisture issues thankfully, but our existing floor is carpet (pad on top of concrete) and the floor is so cold. The challenge we have with choosing a subfloor is that our floor is not very level (significantly sloped towards the floor drains). leveling is possible, however I'm not versed in raising the floor drain and I'm afraid it could open a can of worms. Any suggestions?

[@permaculture3]

Wish I had seen your videos before I did the basement. I put down Pergo Outlast thinking if the washing machine flooded I’m ok. Turns out my 1945 house in Oregon gets water on the same side as the washing machine. Only during heavy rain or occasional snow. I need something to allow water flow and supports the dead weight of the washer and dryer. Thank you for all of your amazing videos. You helped me over the last 4 years remodel the entire house. Just wish o found your channel sooner.

[@TylerRockwood]

If there are small inconsistencies with the Dricore install and a panel has a gap, would Tuck Tape on the surface help to close the thermal break?

[@coyoteroams]

I would still be worried about moisture leaking into the OSB

[@GrantDing]

I've got a 60's house in Ottawa, block foundation. No leaks (yet) but obviously moisture coming through concrete every now and then. Walls are slightly finished, but floors are bare. Going to do a complete overhaul in a year or so, and want to future-proof as much as possible. We might build my wife an office down there, so I want it to be as comfortable as possible. Thanks for your videos, they're very, very helpful!

[@sammn5892]

Hi Jeff!! My dad and I love your DIY videos. We just finished renovating my bathroom thanks to your tiling and waterproofing tips. Last year we laid down lifeproof vinyl plank flooring, from homedepot, in my basement which has a concrete floor. In the room before there was carpet and i never noticed any water issues and we did not use an underlayment (since the plank already came with a pad). A few weeks ago I noticed crusty debri coming up between a few planks. I undid the whole floor and found puddles of water. the walls seem dry so I don't think its water intruding into the house. I live in an older home and live in an area that gets pretty cold in the winter. Trying to find the best subfloor to avoid moisture problems coming up from the concrete. I was thinking of going with the dricore but i would your thoughts/opinion. Thanks!!

[@doughboy914]

Great video! 1year as Homeowner. Had major renovation project at the beginning. Contractor cut corners while renovating basement. He put LVP on bare concrete in upstate NY 1971 Built split level home. To the untrained eye, I had no cracks in the basement. Some cracks in the Garage next door. A year later we have 2 weeks of consistent rain and at the very end I had a very low amount of moisture seep through middle of basement floor. No water coming from walls or broken pipe. Basically water sitting in the middle of the floor. Water height did not go above the bottom of a shoe. VERY shallow. Basement waterproofing companies say I may need a sump pump system and for now just watch it. Now I’m starting to think I just need a good underlayment. I’m here in the comment section, thoughts?

[@eagl3ye]

The Insul Armor products look really cool, but they seem to be focused on DIY friendliness while skimping on performance. It doesn't make sense to me to have so many joints - it just multiplies the potential problems down the road. For an old basement, I like the dimpled membrane + foam board + OSB solution. It might be a thick assembly, but at least you know you're mitigating all three potential issues: air, water leakage, and human error.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@HanSolo1]

just what I was thinking to!! any problem with using proper plywood vs osb (besides price)?

[@jaybrewer3040]

I just found you and you're amazing! 10 seconds of seeing you and I know you're the real deal. Thank you good Sir!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I really appreciate that. Cheers!

[@BobPritchard]

I've used Dricore on several basements. It's worked well. Although I wish it were solid plastic vs. having an OSB layer which can soak up moisture and self destruct if immersed. I think one thing you missed is that cement is going to vent moisture into the building cavity. I cut openings every 15+ feet around the perimeter and then put Reggio registers into the openings. That allows breathing for the cement floor whether it's just vapor or if you get water. And I have had water come in from a wall leak and it was easy enough to use my shopvac to soak up the water. If I hadn't done that, the water might have got into the Dricore. I'd be concerned if you put a solid piece of foam against the floor. I think the floor is going to have some water vapor coming up from the cement and then it will condense against the foam and you'll have a wet floor underlayment that will never dry. Yes, it will be separated from the finished floor but I would be wary of mold and mildew. I enjoy your vids!

[@dmitry6472]

I would be wary of mold and mildew - I that would be the case stones under the slab should be all black from mold cause water present all the time there. Mold also needs organic matter as food, oxygen and temperature. So even if foam against the floor, but you prevent dust and oxygen access to it. It will just stay damp and mold shouldn't grow. This is my thought.

[@TheRealZambrano]

@@dmitry6472 I agree with you. Would putting down the DMX, then the 3/4 foam and then the OSB solve that problem?

[@TheRealZambrano]

I paused the video just before he mentioned it lol

[@swes2934]

Where do you live? Would it be suitable to put these Reggio registers in a basement in a cold winter climate? Edmonton Alberta

[@BobPritchard]

@@swes2934 I've used Dricore along with Reggio Registers in both Massachusetts and northern NH near the Canadian border. Has worked well in both locations.

[@iqbhum]

Just did mine basement finish. All DIY. except electrical work n plumber. House is 6 year old have no water related issues. I used 4, 1x6x8 pressure treated lumber under every 3/4 4x8 TnG OSB to avoid defliction and secured it tapcon. Trust me, basement tempreatre raised to 7 Degree C. I put carpet with 10 mm underpad. Walking on it so smooth and warm. Eveyone love it. I am in procsss of to put HD lifeprof brand VP which has paddung underneath around staircase landing area and hallway to bathroom. My question is should it put 1/4 inch sureply sheet on top if osb for LV installation with Construction adhesive. ? I want to secure VP not floating. Thanks for your time.

[@jakeh8366]

Love the "there is no best" mindset. That's often the question with many things. There is no best. The question should always include the application, and desired outcome. For a 97 build in a northern climate, no issues to fix in terms of moisture (already have water management to under the slab and sump pump) seems like the dimple membrane is the best option. Also like that it's not super thick which would mess up step height and become a possible code violation.

[@marksimon8393]

Great job at explaining thermal options for older and new houses. I lifted my house and built all new, and is using 4 x 8 thermal sheets for my vapour barrier.

[@Oh_You_Touch_My_Tralala]

The last 5 videos I watched: "make sure to vacuum out that dust each time you drill" This guy: "dont vacuum out the dust" Love the consistency of info out here..

[@grecko12345]

Great video. Good to hear about all these products in one spot. I live in a 1920s home in Portland or. It doesn’t get all that cold but it gets wet. I have a water table that I’m handling through a perimeter drain and sump pump but I think I’m going to go with a dimpled membrane sealed with tape and 5/4 osb subfloor. I’m loosing out on a thermal break but I don’t want another 3/4” on a subfloor and I’m not worried about frost or 10 degree weather. The basement stays 50-60 degrees all year round.

[@Belizzle]

This is perfect timing for me. I've been trying to decide what subfloor to use for finishing my basement, so I'd love any thoughts on it! My basement is generally dry, but I live in a pretty wet area and have to rely on my sump-pump when there is any water at all. When the pump went out during heavy rain, water seeped in at the base of the walls, but all ran pretty perfectly to the drain, and we've never had water in the basement otherwise. So I am intending to use some sort of dimpled membrane to guard against a similar failure in the future, but I also only have 7 foot ceilings in my basement, so I don't want too much buildup on the height of the floor. We've also, I think, landed on carpeting the space, since it will primarily be a playroom for young kids. It's a 1991 build in Ohio.

[@kobayashi1972]

Great video! QUESTION : Could I build the wall directly on the DMX-1 Step product?

[@jmorv8866]

I'd love to see the non-caffeinated version of this video. :D

[@billsedutto8824]

First time?

[@jmorv8866]

@@billsedutto8824 Far from it. Jeff just seemed a little more caffeinated than usual

[@JustMe-pp1mp]

He does go pretty fast at times doesn't he? I usually adjust the playback speed as opposed to replaying the spot over and over. No matter what speed he talks at the informatin provided is spot on.

[@muaddib7484]

Jeff you are by far the most honest and knowledgeable contractor I’ve ever seen. Thank you for helping guys like myself (new home owner ). I have a house in NJ built in 1943 . The flooring is concrete in basement. No moisture that im aware . My plan is to gut the whole basement and out down plank flooring . Should I go with the durofoam and moisture barrier combo even though I haven’t come across any moisture? Thanks In advance

[@lgryn]

If only they built houses properly in the first place and insulated under the basement slab you wouldn't have to install a patch on top.

[@Sdcarney11]

Jeff, I’ve watched your videos for years and benefited more than I can say, so thank you! One question I’ve had and can’t seem to find anything or anyone that addresses is options or how to install flooring (subfloor, underpad, moisture/vapor barrier, type of actual floor, etc.) on top of an unfinished concrete garage/basement floor FOR A SAUNA. Even the prefabricated saunas (eg, Almost Heaven) require use of your existing floor (ie, flooring not provided). Given the increased/explosion in interest for saunas, cold plunges/tubs, etc., I think others would be interested and benefit from your thoughts/suggestions on this topic, and DIY saunas in general. Any thoughts/guidance? Regardless, thanks for all you do and keep up the great work.

[@electronate]

Jeff, my house is a 1910ish, in Portland OR, I get moisture infiltration via walls and floor during the heaviest of rains, as I am at the base of Mt Tabor. The house is elevated above the garage/basement. I was thinking of walling off the garage part and using the remaining space for better living...I get a "puddle" once or twice a year depending on storms...

[@DenisetCaro-kd3lf]

Love the simplicity Jeff - cheers from Ottawa !

[@hp6773]

Question…..going from carpet to lvp or spc ….which one should I go with which looks better and long lasting. Also I like to use the best under floor for moisture barrier & noise canceling. House built in 2008…in NC Thanks

[@patrickmcgill3610]

1960 walkout lower level in northern Indiana .. No water issues to speak of in the walls or the floor ... looking at putting something down to take away the cold in the winter... I'd prefer to put down engineered hardwood yet keep the height as low as possible. Thank you for your thoughts

[@donaldandmijung]

Jeff, We live in Atlanta in a split-level home on a slab. The lower level has floor moisture issue. Some of it is the grading but we've done all we can do with new gutters and corrugated pipes to unload most of the water in the ditch behind the house. However, whenever it rains hard we still have sticky moisture feet. Looking for best solution to try to end this issue and get rid these noisy humidifiers. Only concern is the door to the garage and the backyard if we raise the height of the floor. The interiors doors we can trim. Thanks for help and suggestions. Home was built in 2014.

[@samslade739]

Thanks for your great advice. My house was built (in Georgia) in the mid 80s. Basement finished sometime later. Huge rainstorm, carpet soaked. I've removed the carpet and the lower foot of sheet rock. Looks like it has been wet inside the walls for a long time. Just never noticed it. Everything is dry now. I'll have to replace some of the studs. Still haven't decided what to put down on the floor. I do have a door if I decide to bring in full sheets. I'll keep watching. Again, Thanks for the amazing videos.

[@czywrench24]

Jeff, I love the way you think. I would 100% recommend using some type of barrier between the slab and whatever flooring one might choose. My house is over 100 years old and the cement flooring in the basement is only 2-4" thick. It was sloped so as to channel any water to one particular spot. I used the 1-Step DMX as an underlayment, built runners so as to even out the floor, and put 3/4 plywood subflooring with deck screws. I also laid a bead of construction adhesive on top of the runners before laying down the plywood. In-between the runners I stuffed in rigid styrofoam. Now my basement has an actual vapor barrier, thermal barrier, is level and insulated. It stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Cheer!!!

[@playthebassorama]

Thanks for this. I've got a 100+ year old house and am looking to put the TV room down there. What did you do on the walls? Do you have an air gap to connect with the one between the subfloor and concrete?

[@aaronpops4108]

I have a 1950 house with a 575sq.ft. Basement. The 3 things I have to work around are insulation(house in Edmonton), vapor barrier, and ceiling height (mostly over 7' of height but beams and hvac at 6'7" to concrete). Plan is to use the 1 step dimple mat(only ~ 1/4" thick), floor leveler where needed, possibly 1/2" high density foam, and then flooring. I'd be using the thicker foundation dimple mat on the walls, 2" xps board, and then framing.

[@najeebullahkhan7859]

I am a loyal viewer of your channel and have greatly benefited from the DIY projects you share. Your content has made life easier for countless Americans and Canadians, including myself. I have been following your channel for various DIY projects and I am currently in the process of finishing my basement in northern Georgia, USA. As I am on a limited budget, I would greatly appreciate your expert advice on the most suitable subfloor system for my project.l? Thank you for your time and for the invaluable knowledge you provide through your channel. Keep the good work up.

[@hommefrancais]

Jeff as always thank you for providing all these available materials to work with. As a French who moved to the US after doing bits of building/renovation (just as a laborer or flipping family owned houses) in France and Australia, I bought my first house in Georgia where the weather is very different from any places I have lived (especially Montreal). But I did trust the inspector and got sold a flipper house with little to no care about insulation. Drafts through power sockets, around windows and frames, doors, no vapor barrier in the non encapsulated crawlspace, r30 blown in attic with probably no air sealing and the ceiling or the attic has no insulation at all. This house looks brand new but besides insulation, floors are uneven, walls and rooms arent square and I can even see some screw and joint tape slowly popping off..... I know it sounds like a lot, so what would be your priority as a homeowner?

[@Green__one]

Excellent video, and pretty much confirmed what I was already thinking. My house is 1973 in Canada (Calgary) and I am mostly looking to deal with the unfinished portion which is a crawl space. We use that a lot for storage, but I feel like the house would probably be warmer if we insulated the floor of it. (Walls are already insulated) I was trying to come up with any reason not to just put down sheets of rigid foam with sheets of OSB over top, and couldn't find one. I'd also like to extend it out into my furnace/laundry room. My only real catch is that I already (stupidly) put down carpet in the livable parts, with only a normal underlay, and no subfloor. So I'm not quite sure how to transition between the two, because I don't think I really want to rip up the carpet at this stage to do that part right.

[@blujeans9462]

This is excellent! I've put cameras in my vacation home basement for almost a year - trying to figure out if it water is coming in the basement or what. It's in the woods in PA so it is naturally high humidity - but I just couldn't figure out if, and how, water is coming in (my rubber mats were often times moist underneath, but the concrete was always bone dry - even after torrential rain storms). House was built pre 1990 - so that explains it!! Thank you! I feel much more confident considering finishing the basement someday with those water management squares.

[@brett1210]

Thank you for the valuable information. How do you deal with the tread height of the stairs after you raise the floor with a system like this?

[@Chris_the_Teach5626]

Thanks Jeff, our house was built in 1976. We are in Michigan. Has a sump pump. Have had no water issues as of yet(1.5 years). Want to finish a large portion of the basement. probably 1,000 square feet. Will probably do vinyl on top of whatever subfloor we use. Curious as to what we should use. I am nervous about well pump, water heater, water softner, things like that leaking at some point. Hopefully it never happens just if it does, I don't want that to turn into 10-20,000 in damage

[@mattpedersen5366]

Jeff! Watching many of your videos as we work on our "new to us" home! Looking at working on the basement next and trying to determine best solutions. Here's some info and hope you can help! - Built in 1969 (Addition with additional basement space built in 1999) - Northern USA so dealing with some cooler temps - No water intrusion on the addition side (pulling drywall off the original basement in a few weeks) - Concrete slab with thin tiles on top (testing for asbestos in the next week) - LVP flooring will be going on top of whatever subfloor option. Additional: - Utility Room (Strip) separates the two living spaces so there is an AC drainage line that runs across the space that I would love to cover if possible

[@davidball4349]

Perfect video for what I need. Great explanation for my basement finishing needs. Your videos are a great help. I recently bought an older house just south of Buffalo on Lake Erie and I believe that I'm dealing with moisture management and thermal issues. Got to keep the basement warm if I'm going to work down there!

[@khgma]

I have an older damp basement floor that slopes to a middle floor drain. The floor is not obviously damp but does not pass the plastic test. I am considering the DMX-1 , then thin plywood or OSB (so that it will bend along with the slope easier) with tite bond tape to seal the seams, then paint the plywood floor to finish. 1. Over all, will this plan work? 2. Will Plywood or OSB work and which is best? 3. If sheet wood would work out ok, what thickness? 4. Any other suggestions? Thank you.

[@shopyard87]

Glad you sent this to your subscribers. I'm working on redoing my floors, about to remove the old flooring and subfloor. I got a old house built 1948, I live in Concord North Carolina, USA. I have original 2x4 studs between the walls with no insulation between them, but the walls has wood slacks instead of insulation attached to the 2x4's. I noticed that when I removed the sheet rock from the first bedroom. I have a crawl space under the floors, which subfloor system would work for me? It's very early in the morning right now, I will go back under the house to see if there's any openings between the foundation

[@jsimmons9094]

Great video. DMX increases floor temp by 7 degrees C. Worked well in my house. Much better than dricore

[@loserb85]

Hi Jeff, I'm repurposing my exterior garage as a rental in Ontario. My concrete floor does have a vapour barrier and 2" rigid insul. under the concrete. I'm using Luxury Vinyl Plank with a underlay attached to the plank, what else should I use? Or can I lay that right on the concrete? Thanks for everything you do, the only reason I started this project was because of your videos.

[@elementarypenguin9]

Looking to put something over old concrete floor in a laundry room that one had a small leak. 60/70's style home in Southern Ontario. What would you suggest that would be easiest?

[@canadude6401]

I went with DMX 1-step (blue dimple stuff). I liked that it was lightweight, easy to roll out, easy to cut, and didn't take up much height. I saved lots of money and time versus what I was going to do....Delta FL with 5/8" plywood and anchoring with Tapcons. I used that saved money to have spray foam applied to the rim joists and walls. I also invested in adding air returns and re-routed some of the heat vents to floor level. The whole basement is super comfortable...in fact, it feels just as warm down there as the main level! The spray foam was the best thing we did and even though it wasn't cheap, it gave us a good bang for our buck. The DMX 1 Step on the floor gives me a thermal break and allows the concrete to breath effectively. Vinyl Plank flooring is going in this weekend directly on top. Can't wait!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@mattseverance8176]

How is the vinyl plank working out bring placed directly on the DMX 1 step? Any issues with the feel under your feet (movement of the vinyl?) thanks.

[@canadude6401]

@@mattseverance8176 It's held up very well for 2 months now. I went with a higher end 9mm vinyl plank. I didn't want a wavy look and I can't stand cheap products (5-7mm). Flooring isn't somewhere you skimp.

[@mattseverance8176]

@@canadude6401 thanks and I agree on not skimping on flooring.

[@ruanddu]

@@canadude6401can I please ask which brand and model of flooring you went with? Also, is dmx 1 step still holding up?

[@dcq5381]

My question is as we built up the floor height what happens when we come to doors? To rooms or to outside in a garden style. How do you accommodate for the door swing when the floor now comes up?

[@daddydubs2024]

Perfect timing! I'm moving on to floors next week. I live in the Midwest in a 2007 home. No issues with flooding or moisture through the walls. Looking to save some money. Help me out Jeff, just like you always have in my past DIY projects!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

to save money you could always just drop your vinyl flooring on the concrete with an attached pad. It is just a basement. Cheers!

[@tammygarrett6963]

thank you for the great advice, i have been try to make decisions on what to do for my condo, i will watch again, to make sure i understand everything before i make decisions, but just learning about the different options is fantastic for me😁🤗

[@altarproperties8989]

I love your video. We had to solve a mold problem in our home that is requiring me to put in new flooring in our basement. Our house is 30 years old and we live in IA. We have had moisture in the basement, but the only time we get water is if the sump pump dies, and then its only a small amount around a crack. Here is what I did so far: I had the crack in the basement floor professionally patched, along with some other cracks. I fixed a grade problem in the front of the house. I also spray foamed the entire basement wall with closed cell foam. As I look at the underlayments, I see the problems you lay out in your video. They just don't have enough performance. Since I believe our sump pump and other things I did to mitigate water coming into the basement will prevent any water, we will just have high humidity I need to deal with. I don't beleive there is any vapor barrier or anything else under the concrete, and I am using vinyl plank flooring that has a pad attached. My goal: to be a thermal break and get the basement warmed up in the winter. Can I put vinyl plank directly on top of Duro Foam? (or foamular 250 if I buy from menards)? I'd rather not have to purchase OSB or plywood as well if I can avoid it. I like the idea of having 3/4 - 1" of foam insulation. If I cna use foam under vinyl plank I want to make sure its hard enough to support the joints in the vinyl plank. thank you so much for your help.

[@zmudakl]

Hi! What would you suggest for the following - 1. LOCATION - Century, WI 2. Slab unsealed with a 15mil vapor below it and no insulation. 3. It's a shop being turned into a shop house. 4. The walls are Insulated 5. The dirt work will grade the drainage away from the home

[@danieltimme2369]

The DMX 1-step says leave a 1/2 inch gap between wall and recommends that for the laminate for air flow as well. How much of a vertical gap do you leave from the baseboard to still allow airflow?

[@victorlearned9438]

Wondering the same. I have a old 1940s house with a basement that was previously remodeled (incorrectly) with carpet that smells. I plan on slowly removing the carpet room by room and replacing with DMX 1-step and vinyl flooring but not sure if I need a gap. Granted I need to eventually fix all the walls and probably redo/add insulation (but first need to waterproof the foundation exterior...bleh)

[@MatthewE83]

If using the DMX One Step do you take that to the foundation walls and if so how do you go about framing out walls while still leaving the proper air gap between the concrete wall and the framed wall?

[@JoeyRam.]

Thanks for sharing so much knowledge. I have a house built in 2018, the basement floor (L shape 925 sq ft) is concrete and the walls are from Superior Walls (insulated precast concrete wall panels). Have humidifier and the furnace only have one return and one vent...yes it gets cold! What I want? Other than a decent heat; is to place a rubber flooring roll, like gyms. Either 1/4" or 1/2" thick. Another thing to mention is that the floor is not even. What is the best way to go with it? Thanks for your time.

[@bigpebble]

I live in a really quiet location so for my home theater I didn't want bass transmitted to the outside through the concrete slab, so I used Dricore R Plus with an 5/8" OSB topper for my subfloor as a sound break over concrete. I did screw the edges into the concrete to secure them as recommended by the mfr, but with the OSB on top I doubt it was really needed.

[@qtkaden]

Hi Jeff, what product would you suggest for my basement floor. I don't have any moisture issue or foundation cracks, but I'm trying to make the floor warmer and then put laminate flooring. Also, should I remove existing wood panelling and put drywall instead? Thank you.

[@nickswank7169]

When using the DRICORE Insul-Armor, would you lay down the foam boards, then build the wall framing above it similar to how you would with the DRICORE OSB panels? Or would you build the wall framing then bump the insul-armor up to the bottom plate?

[@SheltieChe]

Doing dri core R plus with cork floor on top. I checked for moisture with plastic sheet test, was no moisture. However house built 1991 with established bathroom lower lever and so called English basement style of lower level. It might be most expensive option but I like idea of insulation plus channels for occasional possible moisture dispersal.

[@haydenrozalski8537]

love your videos, and thank you so much for saving me thousands by learning to do it myself

[@arielcohen7798]

Hey Jeff, My home was built in 1957. House came with a finished basement. Since we bought it, the basement flooded and I've had lots of work done to manage water coming into the house. I want to finish the basement myself. Beneath the house is clay and I think that is part of the reason water penetrates the concrete. Looking for a good subfloor to manage any future water issues.

[@KennyCosway]

House is 70 years old in Toronto. Doing the entire basement top to bottom so we have a clean slate. we will install LVP. basement will include, gym, bedroom, full bathroom, tv room and laundry room.

[@EzekielGage]

This is awesome because we just got done walking around Floor and Decor Sunday . Having to rip all of the carpet and pad out of half of our basement due to animal pee. (Sister lived in my basement with her pets for a few years) Now I'm looking at putting in vinyl flooring and want some sort of underlayment so it's not like walking on ice as that's where my office is going to end up.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@alexalguire6733]

With Insul Armour can you follow your same technique shown in How Basements are built to get moisture to the exterior wall? More simply - can you do subfloor then wall with this product or do you have to go wall then sub?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

you can install walls on top of this, YES!

[@alexalguire6733]

@Home RenoVision DIY awesome thanks for the quick reply.

[@rahamatbacchus4145]

Jeff, thanks for the info on DMX. It can be used for water/ moisture management in basement.

[@Brian-tu7yn]

Thanks for all the information Jeff! I’m curious what the best choice would be for a new construction, dry, unfinished basement desiring carpeting.

[@BeaujackHorseman]

Own a home built in 2000, half the basement is finished and we’ve added an office downstairs. The floors were painted grey by the prior home owner. Don’t believe I have moisture issues but I’ll do the bag trick. My plan is to use vinyl tongue in groove planks. I’m leaning towards that green sheet for underlayment/vapor barrier (if I need it). What would you recommend in my case as someone who doesn’t suspect any moisture issues?

[@bmeyer4979]

You have saved me thousands over the yrs Jeff. I’m pulling out carpet in a basement that is finished and has playroom, gym and bedroom. It’s a 1930s build. I may have to level some of the floor but we are putting in a Shaw engineered hardwood tongue and groove. Probably need vapor barrier but what would be best?

[@orthonormality]

Thank you for the content. It's so helpful. We are interested in finishing our basement but we are hesitant because of the height. Going to get a quote to lower the floor and underpin the footing to try to take care of insulation and moisture management prior to pouring the slab.

[@annlouise8909]

Great video! I need to make subflooring purchase re. basement:water management vapour + climate. Our house southern ontario, late 50s bungalow, good elevation, We had nice laminate flooring placed on top of parquet (The Carpet Store advised this, to save me money) but then.... a year later, up popped the laminate in two spots.... we did our research and the house is healthy, in fact, darn good re foundation etc. (parquet is gone now, we will re-use the flooring) but now WHICH PRODUCT for below the laminate: Delta FL (Dorken Delta? Basic Delta?) Dricore? I need to make the right choice as pulling up again would give me such heartache (we also had nice pantry units made... all had to come up, yuck). Maybe you will not see this as 1 year after video posted. Cheers

[@BrandyHarper]

I am going to build a sleeper floor over a concrete/tiled covered porch (Closing it in). There is no vapor barrier, so I looking for a suggestion for Vapor and thermal, my build-up will be up to 3.5 inches so I have plenty of room to work with. Any suggestions?

[@deakyte5612]

I am going to try the blue DMX. I may try the black dimple exterior stuff in case of heavy furniture. I figure its probably got a higher crush value

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

they both have plenty of compression strength. no worries!

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Jeff excellent video , Have a small bathroom in basement, tiled floor, was planning to use the DMX over the tile, just was going to fill in the grout lines flush