Comparing 5 Different Subfloor Systems and What They Cost

There are many kinds of subfloor technology, and they all serve a different purpose. Today I'm discussing what options are available on the market as well as a unique DIY system I created that is cheaper than Dricore! Flooring tools 👉🏼 🇺🇸geni.us/r3RwSh (Amazon) 🇨🇦geni.us/xTgvkhD (Amazon)
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[@unboxerman12]

This channel has been invaluable as a new homeowner. Even with good diy skills having so much info presented so efficiently in one place is amazing.

[@mldowning]

Agreed, I always come here first before embarking on my nearly daily trip to Lowes

[@1193bobmcc]

😅

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Great to hear! We always try to provide an objective opinion and many solutions to the same problem as possible. Cheers!

[@JustNel]

I'm not even a home owner and i have watched for a few years now

[@DrDrogen]

I want to say how much I appreciate your no bullshit, straight to the meat videos. I'm happy to not listen to stupid rock music or other bs and it's all info no fluff. Keep up the good work.

[@albertm8576]

Jeff I don’t think there’s anyone out there as knowledgeable and willing to help us all out the way you do. Love your channel and keep up the great work!

[@NomenclaturalMan]

What an excellent channel, I have learned so much in regards to DIY. Back when Covid first hit in 2020, I watched your channel to learn how to build a deck, and after about a month straight of hardwork, I remodeled our entire deck and added a staircase that I am damn proud of for a first major DIY build. Here I am on one heck of a building kick again, learning all I can from you folks!

[@simmonslucas]

Dude, your videos always quickly explain products and rationalize the processes. We are building a new home slab on grade, and we just want the thermal break. I was looking at products that were more complicated than I needed. Thanks!

[@jeffcustrin5797]

I have the dmx one step with laminate 12mm flooring on top .Works great floor is warm and quiet .Old house new foundation with poly under slab. Keep up the great videos !

[@moonwolf3378]

You forgot price range for the blue dimple DMX OneStep. It’s about .78 cents per sf. at HD. I used it for my basement grow room thx to ur older video. Now iM using it for the rest of the basement as it worked just fine. Plus I don’t want to lose inches in an already low ceiling environment. Thank you for the new fresh update and the info u squeeze into every vid. We live in MA. I’m a wife of a great man that is not handy. We speak Spanish. We call you El Canadiense. Whenever my husband wants to argue w me about how to do an HI task, I just say El Canadiense said and he complies. 😂

[@josephpaulson4479]

I used your old system of the big roll of DMX with OSB on top to finish my basement. Worked great. Thanks for all your videos!

[@marksimon8393]

Great job at explaining thermal options for older and new houses. I lifted my house and built all new, and is using 4 x 8 thermal sheets for my vapour barrier.

[@jemiller4x4v8]

When I gutted my basement a few years ago down to concrete walls and floor, I went with 1" XPS foam boards on the walls and in the rim joist and DMX dimple mat on the floor. Laid down Vinyl planks directly over the dimple mat. I haven't had a single issue with my basement that was built in 1970. I am located in the midwest and go through all 4 seasons. I also put in a new sump pit during this time since the old one was not done right. Kuddos to your channel and the knowledge from my dad. Saved a ton of money doing it myself.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

well done my man! just keep an eye on grading over time to make sure you don't have water running down the foundation wall. Cheers!

[@GTOjoe6.0]

I'm currently in the same boat you're in now. I was looking at using 1" XPS but everywhere I look online everyone recommends using 2" XPS. The problem is 2" XPS foam is sold out everywhere currently. I take it the 1" XPS is enough to provide the necessary vapor barrier I need? also in the midwest. St. Louis, MO suburbs

[@jemiller4x4v8]

@@GTOjoe6.0 From my research, the 1" would give me enough to be a vapor retarder. 2" would have given me a moisture barrier. I installed it so any moisture that did get on the inside would run down the wall and under my dimple map. I only ran the glue vertical when putting up the foam boards. I did tape plastic on a few spots to test for moisture before installing. I also have excellent grading away from my house and relieve any hydro pressure with my new sump pit I installed. FYI...I just checked Menards and they have a ton of 2" in stock.

[@GTOjoe6.0]

@Jake Miller I'd like to go with the 2" polyiso by johns manville. I didn't see any online, what menards did you check? I live near the Menards in saint peters, mo

[@snowwhite2709]

We're in southern Ontario. Ripping out an old wood subfloor that needs to come out. The basement, when we redo it, will be redone with laminate throughout, besides the bathroom which we may tile or use vinyl flooring. We wish to have a barrier from the cold concrete below, and protection in the event of moisture or a touch of water, which we're not aware of having any water problem. If you recommend something, like to know if you need to attach with tapcons, we prefer no to, however if it's the best option we would. Prefer no clicking when you walk, but heard you can put something under the plastic underlay, DMX, bubble product etc, so it doesn't click. Thanks

[@andrewwong7912]

Hey Jeff! I watched a ton of your previous videos on flooring and just finished the living room in my basement (1969). I decided to go with the DMX over the DRICORE not only because I was worried about water and moisture but also the cost. The difference in price between the "regular" DRICORE and the DMX was a difference of 500$ in my area for a 300 sqft space. My basement has a slope going towards the drain and when I measured the distances, it fell within the range without filing (1/2"inch over 4ft). Therefore technically I would not have fill gaps etc. If I were to do this project again I would most likely invest more so that I could have my entire subfloor as level as it can be. I am seeing the results of placing my 7mm rigid vinyl flooring over the DMX as well as trying to align all of the baseboards and quarter rounds. Compared to the other products, there is no way to level DMX than to use self leveler or just fill with concrete. DRICORE sells plastic shims that will level each sheet as you progress and I assume with the Durofoam you can shave off and add pieces to fix this problem as well? Also with DMX they advertised a lot that there would be a great difference in temperature when compared to the DRICORE, I would have to say that this is false. My floors are not ice cold but they are not as warm as I thought they would be either. Keep up the great videos they have been a lot of help for me!!! P.S I am about to put in door frames that are not prehung, could you possibly make a video in the future on how to put them up starting from scratch! :D

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I will consider that. Cheers!

[@SaahilSethy]

@ Andrew Wong I have the scenario in basement as you had. I have option for Dricore and DMX, which system do you still prefer ? Your advise will be appreciated since you have gone through this !

[@andrewwong7912]

@@SaahilSethy if you have water problems I think Jeff still suggests using the DMX but if not I would do dricore so that the floor is as level as can be. He recently posted another video with the foam as a subfloor it looks decent as well!

[@SaahilSethy]

@@andrewwong7912 Thanks Andrew

[@dawnpatton-valentine3234]

I absolutely love all of your videos! All of the details really help to do it myself. I have a lot of experience doing different remodeling projects over the years. KZbin has been a place to get knowledge in the last few years. I recently discovered your videos and now I am able to get very clear steps on multiple different projects. Thank you so much!❤

[@danielm4849]

I love this channel so much. We bought a house in southern BC (Nelson), built in 1973, and it's a pretty humid house, even in the winter. I'm doing our basement right now and have gone with the Barricade Thermal Armor HDF panels. They actually cost pretty much the same as the other Barricade products per unit (at our Rona here in town) but are larger so it worked out cheaper. About 1400 for 650sqft after tax. I chose this as it offered the best R-Value and being an old house with just baseboard heat, we're trying to make it as warm as possible in the basement for family and friends to come and stay as that's where the guest suite is. There are some foundation issues as it's build on a very wet hill, so the foam board right on the floor wasn't an option for us. But this video definitely explained in 5 minutes what it took me about 2 hours of reading online to ascertain! Thanks so much for all the videos and content, it really does help all us so, so much!

[@christopherrockel2676]

Planning for a big enough window in your basement to get any of these products in is a fantastic tip. Thanks Jeff 🙂

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

You bet! besides, natural light ion a basement is a great idea. Cheers!

[@mv80401]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I self-installed a Euro style tilt and turn window 48x48 for that very reason, plus much safer egress than this existing slider, and better insulation.

[@elqortbi]

Careful! The purple insulamor is so thick that if will give you trouble to install reducer. You will have to make custom reducers

[@alexvancampenhout7984]

Another stellar video, Jeff! Thank you! Question - we have a house built in 1970, no moisture issues thankfully, but our existing floor is carpet (pad on top of concrete) and the floor is so cold. The challenge we have with choosing a subfloor is that our floor is not very level (significantly sloped towards the floor drains). leveling is possible, however I'm not versed in raising the floor drain and I'm afraid it could open a can of worms. Any suggestions?

[@mariodegrazia7497]

I have been watching you for a while. I just wanted to lyk that you helped me so much. You have such a common sense way of explaining everything. Thank you!!

[@hommefrancais]

Jeff as always thank you for providing all these available materials to work with. As a French who moved to the US after doing bits of building/renovation (just as a laborer or flipping family owned houses) in France and Australia, I bought my first house in Georgia where the weather is very different from any places I have lived (especially Montreal). But I did trust the inspector and got sold a flipper house with little to no care about insulation. Drafts through power sockets, around windows and frames, doors, no vapor barrier in the non encapsulated crawlspace, r30 blown in attic with probably no air sealing and the ceiling or the attic has no insulation at all. This house looks brand new but besides insulation, floors are uneven, walls and rooms arent square and I can even see some screw and joint tape slowly popping off..... I know it sounds like a lot, so what would be your priority as a homeowner?

[@FITXnHUGS]

When I did the subfloor in my basement, I went with the foundation membrane, with the foil backed foam, then 5/8" osb on top. Sure it's a little thick, but no worst then the 2×4 and osb that was ripped up. With the cold Canadian winters it was a great investment.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

great solution, water management and thermal break. Cheers!

[@aujla23]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY hi, can you put laminate directly on the foundation membrane foam sheets?

[@qinglinluan754]

for your foil-backed foam, which side does the foil face? we are considering doing so for our old garage, which is 5 inches below grade. has issues of both moistures coming up and inside down. Also, how did you anchor the OSB to the foam? Thank you

[@jk-zm2fs]

I live in Canada too, in a 50 yr old townhouse. For the basement poured concrete floor, I am thinking of putting the foundation wrap with 4x8 tongue and groove plywood, not OSB, and using a minimal amount of tapcons. At the joints of the foundation wrap, use that red tape to seal it. Use construction adhesive on top of the wrap to connect to the plywood. Comments? I really don't like OSB because of the off-gassing and the breakdown with moisture.

[@FITXnHUGS]

@jk-zm2fs Chances are the adhesive won't stick to the foundation wrap. I ended up having to redo the subfloor due to a sump pump failure, and when I was pulling it up, the adhesive didn't stay stuck to it. The new subfloor, I used the same foundation wrap, foam, T&G osb, and tapcons. I put about 6 tapcons per 4'×8' sheet and found that held everything in place nicely. If you go too close to the edge, you will end up with the center of the sheets bowing. Anything smaller than 24" I used a single row in the middle. No adhesive.

[@twincitiesberrycompany8723]

Great explanations of the options! I'm going with the insul armor for my 110 yr old house's basement, in Minnesota because: - Thermal barrier (r value of 4.1) - Water/vapor management built right in - Thinner than combining durofoam + dimples - Easiest to get into my narrow basement ( I had to cut my 8x4 drywall in half to get them into the basement space it was awful) It is a little more expensive, but actually in the US, they just announced a 30% tax credit for home insulation modifications; save those receipts!

[@davidball4349]

Perfect video for what I need. Great explanation for my basement finishing needs. Your videos are a great help. I recently bought an older house just south of Buffalo on Lake Erie and I believe that I'm dealing with moisture management and thermal issues. Got to keep the basement warm if I'm going to work down there!

[@permaculture3]

Wish I had seen your videos before I did the basement. I put down Pergo Outlast thinking if the washing machine flooded I’m ok. Turns out my 1945 house in Oregon gets water on the same side as the washing machine. Only during heavy rain or occasional snow. I need something to allow water flow and supports the dead weight of the washer and dryer. Thank you for all of your amazing videos. You helped me over the last 4 years remodel the entire house. Just wish o found your channel sooner.

[@HiFlyer371]

I'm in Omaha and did my basement 4th bedroom and bath in Dricore almost 15 years ago. I hate cold basements so I also lined the cinderblock walls with 2 inch pink foamboard, then a 2X4 stud wall insolated with fiberglass bats. People are amazed at how warm the downstairs apartment is.

[@baxt1412]

What a small world - Omaha DIYer here too!

[@canadude6401]

I only wish more people did foam board or foam insulation, it is a game changer for basements. I am in the finishing stages of my 2004 basement is as warm as the main level, and I know the difference was immediately felt after the spray foam application in the rim joists and the walls. I added batt as well to the partially empty 2x4 cavities and re-used the pink fiberglass into the rim joists. I could lay ice on the floor and the basement would be just as warm. I want with DMX 1 step, and the thermal break alone does a good job. There really is nowhere for the heat to escape!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@WintzWorld]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Can I build my 2x4 walls on top of the DMX step 1? If I insulate the walls with pink batt insulation do I need an air gap of 1" or is foam board a better option first and then batt? Great videos Jeff!

[@melissamatos1664]

hello hi flyer, im also redoing my basement, i have no water issues. im more concerned with moisture. my question is if i use foamboard on the cinder block walls and then bat insolation my stud walls, should i be worried about condensation behind my walls? im thinking if i use non backing insulation, and including the air space between the wall and foam should be enough to keep things dry back there. thoughts? JEFF, you are THE BEST, thank you for everything you do!

[@coypotts23]

Don't have a basement, still watched just to learn. Many moons ago you did a Q&A talking about how to source products through a wholesaler. Several large projects in my house were made possible because of this information and sweat equity.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Love a good deal. Happy to hear that info saved you money. Cheers!

[@samslade739]

Thanks for your great advice. My house was built (in Georgia) in the mid 80s. Basement finished sometime later. Huge rainstorm, carpet soaked. I've removed the carpet and the lower foot of sheet rock. Looks like it has been wet inside the walls for a long time. Just never noticed it. Everything is dry now. I'll have to replace some of the studs. Still haven't decided what to put down on the floor. I do have a door if I decide to bring in full sheets. I'll keep watching. Again, Thanks for the amazing videos.

[@davidrobins4025]

Another excellent video on how to do sub flooring. I'm in a new home and have yet do do the flooring for my lower level living. This is a tremendous help Thank You.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful! Cheers you got this!

[@eptfo]

Great video. I’ve actually been looking into options like these. I’ll be building and finishing an office space inside a 40x40 garage we just had built. I was looking into the Dricore products to provide a thermal break. Garage slab does have a vapor barrier under it. Located in northern Wisconsin.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

thermal break is nice but for an office in your area I would consider installing a ditra mat with electric cable for a heat source. then you can add floor leveler and then vinyl flooring on top. you get a heated floor that will always be dry and a durable finish without too much height added. Cheers!

[@eptfo]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY what about if we intend on heating the office space with a mini split? Is the heated floor overkill then? Or is the mini split overkill. Office space is going to be 10x12

[@sammn5892]

Hi Jeff!! My dad and I love your DIY videos. We just finished renovating my bathroom thanks to your tiling and waterproofing tips. Last year we laid down lifeproof vinyl plank flooring, from homedepot, in my basement which has a concrete floor. In the room before there was carpet and i never noticed any water issues and we did not use an underlayment (since the plank already came with a pad). A few weeks ago I noticed crusty debri coming up between a few planks. I undid the whole floor and found puddles of water. the walls seem dry so I don't think its water intruding into the house. I live in an older home and live in an area that gets pretty cold in the winter. Trying to find the best subfloor to avoid moisture problems coming up from the concrete. I was thinking of going with the dricore but i would your thoughts/opinion. Thanks!!

[@nicolasgill9907]

Hi Jeff, I'm a huge fan! I'm planning a full basement reno in my 1950's home. I live in Salmo, BC so I'm looking for a flooring solution that takes into consideration moisture and thermal ... and what makes it even more challenging is I'm also dealing with a relatively low clearance ceiling so need to keep the subfloor as thin as possibly without sacrificing comfort as this will be a rental suite. Thanks for your help and giving us the confidence to tackle these projects alone :)

[@mattpedersen5366]

Jeff! Watching many of your videos as we work on our "new to us" home! Looking at working on the basement next and trying to determine best solutions. Here's some info and hope you can help! - Built in 1969 (Addition with additional basement space built in 1999) - Northern USA so dealing with some cooler temps - No water intrusion on the addition side (pulling drywall off the original basement in a few weeks) - Concrete slab with thin tiles on top (testing for asbestos in the next week) - LVP flooring will be going on top of whatever subfloor option. Additional: - Utility Room (Strip) separates the two living spaces so there is an AC drainage line that runs across the space that I would love to cover if possible

[@michaelzwatty4172]

I watch your videos all the time, THANK YOU! As it turns out, I’m currently in the process of finishing my basement in the United States. I’ve never had water issues in my basement but it was built in 1989 and we live on a hill. What kind of subfloor options would you recommend?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

that depends on geography. northern climate get a thermal break. in the south perhaps just the dmx 2 in 1 for a little sound control. Cheers!

[@jakeh8366]

Love the "there is no best" mindset. That's often the question with many things. There is no best. The question should always include the application, and desired outcome. For a 97 build in a northern climate, no issues to fix in terms of moisture (already have water management to under the slab and sump pump) seems like the dimple membrane is the best option. Also like that it's not super thick which would mess up step height and become a possible code violation.

[@muaddib7484]

Jeff you are by far the most honest and knowledgeable contractor I’ve ever seen. Thank you for helping guys like myself (new home owner ). I have a house in NJ built in 1943 . The flooring is concrete in basement. No moisture that im aware . My plan is to gut the whole basement and out down plank flooring . Should I go with the durofoam and moisture barrier combo even though I haven’t come across any moisture? Thanks In advance

[@najeebullahkhan7859]

I am a loyal viewer of your channel and have greatly benefited from the DIY projects you share. Your content has made life easier for countless Americans and Canadians, including myself. I have been following your channel for various DIY projects and I am currently in the process of finishing my basement in northern Georgia, USA. As I am on a limited budget, I would greatly appreciate your expert advice on the most suitable subfloor system for my project.l? Thank you for your time and for the invaluable knowledge you provide through your channel. Keep the good work up.

[@jmcguire56]

10 years ago we finished half the basement. I installed a Dri Core sub floor on my own and then had wall to wall carpeting installed. A few years later the hot water heater sprung a leak and the water travelled UNDER the floor to another side of the basement (its an old house with nothing level). The Dri Core subfloor saved my bacon.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

well played. Cheers!

[@ZhefeiLi]

Do you still need to remove the floor to let it dry out? I have a ripped up floor right now and considering what to put back down

[@jmcguire56]

@@ZhefeiLi nope. Left the floor as is since the water never touched the OSB side. I did put some fans down to blow air under the floor to dry the floor out.

[@WillyDrucker]

Another good one Jeff, informative. Which of these would you use if you're considering normal carpet? Underlayment thickness and ultimately ceiling height is a bigger concern.

[@hamesworth]

Following

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I would install the carpet direct on to the concrete. modern floors have a vapor barrier under the pad and the new carpets and underpads are made to almost eliminate the risk of mold and mildew build up. If it ism dry then just drop it and use a high quality pad with an average carpet for best results vs performance and cost. Cheers Willy!

[@WillyDrucker]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Interesting, good options. As usual, thanks.

[@grecko12345]

Great video. Good to hear about all these products in one spot. I live in a 1920s home in Portland or. It doesn’t get all that cold but it gets wet. I have a water table that I’m handling through a perimeter drain and sump pump but I think I’m going to go with a dimpled membrane sealed with tape and 5/4 osb subfloor. I’m loosing out on a thermal break but I don’t want another 3/4” on a subfloor and I’m not worried about frost or 10 degree weather. The basement stays 50-60 degrees all year round.

[@Werdna12345]

So glad this came before i made my decision on basement subfloor

[@eagl3ye]

The Insul Armor products look really cool, but they seem to be focused on DIY friendliness while skimping on performance. It doesn't make sense to me to have so many joints - it just multiplies the potential problems down the road. For an old basement, I like the dimpled membrane + foam board + OSB solution. It might be a thick assembly, but at least you know you're mitigating all three potential issues: air, water leakage, and human error.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@HanSolo1]

just what I was thinking to!! any problem with using proper plywood vs osb (besides price)?

[@TylerRockwood]

If there are small inconsistencies with the Dricore install and a panel has a gap, would Tuck Tape on the surface help to close the thermal break?

[@coyoteroams]

I would still be worried about moisture leaking into the OSB

[@tammygarrett6963]

thank you for the great advice, i have been try to make decisions on what to do for my condo, i will watch again, to make sure i understand everything before i make decisions, but just learning about the different options is fantastic for me😁🤗

[@GrantDing]

I've got a 60's house in Ottawa, block foundation. No leaks (yet) but obviously moisture coming through concrete every now and then. Walls are slightly finished, but floors are bare. Going to do a complete overhaul in a year or so, and want to future-proof as much as possible. We might build my wife an office down there, so I want it to be as comfortable as possible. Thanks for your videos, they're very, very helpful!

[@claudiorassouli1240]

Can you use a router and template out some groves into the DuroFoam?

[@tomtrevarrow4805]

This is exactly what I thought. Has anyone tried this?

[@BobPritchard]

I've used Dricore on several basements. It's worked well. Although I wish it were solid plastic vs. having an OSB layer which can soak up moisture and self destruct if immersed. I think one thing you missed is that cement is going to vent moisture into the building cavity. I cut openings every 15+ feet around the perimeter and then put Reggio registers into the openings. That allows breathing for the cement floor whether it's just vapor or if you get water. And I have had water come in from a wall leak and it was easy enough to use my shopvac to soak up the water. If I hadn't done that, the water might have got into the Dricore. I'd be concerned if you put a solid piece of foam against the floor. I think the floor is going to have some water vapor coming up from the cement and then it will condense against the foam and you'll have a wet floor underlayment that will never dry. Yes, it will be separated from the finished floor but I would be wary of mold and mildew. I enjoy your vids!

[@dmitry6472]

I would be wary of mold and mildew - I that would be the case stones under the slab should be all black from mold cause water present all the time there. Mold also needs organic matter as food, oxygen and temperature. So even if foam against the floor, but you prevent dust and oxygen access to it. It will just stay damp and mold shouldn't grow. This is my thought.

[@TheRealZambrano]

@@dmitry6472 I agree with you. Would putting down the DMX, then the 3/4 foam and then the OSB solve that problem?

[@TheRealZambrano]

I paused the video just before he mentioned it lol

[@swes2934]

Where do you live? Would it be suitable to put these Reggio registers in a basement in a cold winter climate? Edmonton Alberta

[@BobPritchard]

@@swes2934 I've used Dricore along with Reggio Registers in both Massachusetts and northern NH near the Canadian border. Has worked well in both locations.

[@Slakk6396]

You are hands down the BEST DIY instructor on youtube, I love how you break things down and basically explain the end from the beginning. Just a quick question, when it comes to adding a bedroom/bathroom to a basement, how do you deal with a finite height while also maintaining a good sound absorption?

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

insulate the cavities and then uncouple the ceiling with resilient channel or sound board like sonopan! Cheers!

[@jaybrewer3040]

I just found you and you're amazing! 10 seconds of seeing you and I know you're the real deal. Thank you good Sir!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

I really appreciate that. Cheers!

[@tebasak1]

You talked about this earlier but never finished the series. Since then I've dug out my basement floor (1k sqft.) and removed 37 yards of dirt by hand to lower the whole floor a foot. I've got draintile and 6mm poly down. Poured concrete. That dricore is $7 per item, $3.5/sqft so I'm leaning toward one-step and vinyl plank. House is '53. I'm curious about the one-step going under your new walls, when you secure your 2x4 walls to the floor it'll compress the one-step. (Directions say one-step first to 1/4" of basement wall and then 2x4 wall on top.) How can air move freely in your floor when your walls are pinching the one-step?

[@aaronpops4108]

Did you have to underpin the foundation footing after you dug down a foot? I've heard that underpinning is the best way to prevent the walls from pushing in after the flood is lowered.

[@tebasak1]

@@aaronpops4108 odd thing! My footings were not all the same depth, so yes, the places where the new floor was poured to the top of the footing were pinned.

[@skopinskizzle]

Thanks Jeff! Love the videos. They have been critical in helping me plan out my basement re-renovation. For my subfloor, I'm thinking of going with the dimpled membrane / 3/4 OSB on top of if it, as shown in your previous basement video. This is mainly b/c I want to manage moisture (early 90s ranch, NE Ohio, US) and frame the walls on top of the subfloor. Also, in the membrane/OSB approach, can you sandwich DuroFoam in there to get a thermal break (temporarilty ignoring the increased floor height). Finally, is TruFlor the OSB you recommend? Was looking at AdvanTech. Thanks in advance, you're doing a great public service through the channel!

[@aaronpops4108]

You can definitely put a layer of foam between membrane and osb. Just have to make sure the membrane is level and consider that the foam board reduces headroom.

[@patrickgroulx6714]

I am looking at doing the same in my newer home basement build. I want to use the delta MS dimpled membrane as it seems to be better quality than the DMX and comes in 8.5 ft widths (less seams). I was going to use the 5/8 osb then I saw a video for a similar subfloor using 5/8 spruce plywood. I read that the plywood is 8 times more resistant to swelling if it were to get wet than OSB. Plywood is more expensive but still comes out cheaper than the Drycore. After watching this video I am thinking of incorporating the Durofoam sanwitched in between but am concerned about floor height too especially with my first step.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

no worries combining the 3 layers. from a building science point of view. As far as tru floor vs advantech in a basement I would go with the lower cost. they are both designed to perform in exposed climate during construction and are already over engineered for a basement as is. Cheers!

[@qinglinluan754]

how would you anchor the OSB on top of the foam? Or no anchoring at all?

[@qinglinluan754]

Or, two layers of OSBs?

[@blujeans9462]

This is excellent! I've put cameras in my vacation home basement for almost a year - trying to figure out if it water is coming in the basement or what. It's in the woods in PA so it is naturally high humidity - but I just couldn't figure out if, and how, water is coming in (my rubber mats were often times moist underneath, but the concrete was always bone dry - even after torrential rain storms). House was built pre 1990 - so that explains it!! Thank you! I feel much more confident considering finishing the basement someday with those water management squares.

[@Green__one]

Excellent video, and pretty much confirmed what I was already thinking. My house is 1973 in Canada (Calgary) and I am mostly looking to deal with the unfinished portion which is a crawl space. We use that a lot for storage, but I feel like the house would probably be warmer if we insulated the floor of it. (Walls are already insulated) I was trying to come up with any reason not to just put down sheets of rigid foam with sheets of OSB over top, and couldn't find one. I'd also like to extend it out into my furnace/laundry room. My only real catch is that I already (stupidly) put down carpet in the livable parts, with only a normal underlay, and no subfloor. So I'm not quite sure how to transition between the two, because I don't think I really want to rip up the carpet at this stage to do that part right.

[@Belizzle]

This is perfect timing for me. I've been trying to decide what subfloor to use for finishing my basement, so I'd love any thoughts on it! My basement is generally dry, but I live in a pretty wet area and have to rely on my sump-pump when there is any water at all. When the pump went out during heavy rain, water seeped in at the base of the walls, but all ran pretty perfectly to the drain, and we've never had water in the basement otherwise. So I am intending to use some sort of dimpled membrane to guard against a similar failure in the future, but I also only have 7 foot ceilings in my basement, so I don't want too much buildup on the height of the floor. We've also, I think, landed on carpeting the space, since it will primarily be a playroom for young kids. It's a 1991 build in Ohio.

[@jmorv8866]

I'd love to see the non-caffeinated version of this video. :D

[@billsedutto8824]

First time?

[@jmorv8866]

@@billsedutto8824 Far from it. Jeff just seemed a little more caffeinated than usual

[@JustMe-pp1mp]

He does go pretty fast at times doesn't he? I usually adjust the playback speed as opposed to replaying the spot over and over. No matter what speed he talks at the informatin provided is spot on.

[@haydenrozalski8537]

love your videos, and thank you so much for saving me thousands by learning to do it myself

[@johnhowgego5903]

Great work. I have a 1969 northern Ontario bungalow and finishing it. I’m looking for thermal break on the floor. Was looking at dmx but I want warmth on my floor too. Northern Ontario remember. I have some effervescent white powder marks from concrete sweat in some areas. No water seepage concern as I am elevated and downspouts away from house.

[@Oh_You_Touch_My_Tralala]

The last 5 videos I watched: "make sure to vacuum out that dust each time you drill" This guy: "dont vacuum out the dust" Love the consistency of info out here..

[@mnoble247]

Just wanted to say thanks. Just did DMX dimple board and 7/16 OSB on basement slab. I like the fact with DMX I can tape and get a continuous vapor barrier, easy to install and cost effective.

[@doughboy914]

Great video! 1year as Homeowner. Had major renovation project at the beginning. Contractor cut corners while renovating basement. He put LVP on bare concrete in upstate NY 1971 Built split level home. To the untrained eye, I had no cracks in the basement. Some cracks in the Garage next door. A year later we have 2 weeks of consistent rain and at the very end I had a very low amount of moisture seep through middle of basement floor. No water coming from walls or broken pipe. Basically water sitting in the middle of the floor. Water height did not go above the bottom of a shoe. VERY shallow. Basement waterproofing companies say I may need a sump pump system and for now just watch it. Now I’m starting to think I just need a good underlayment. I’m here in the comment section, thoughts?

[@orthonormality]

Thank you for the content. It's so helpful. We are interested in finishing our basement but we are hesitant because of the height. Going to get a quote to lower the floor and underpin the footing to try to take care of insulation and moisture management prior to pouring the slab.

[@kseattle79]

Thank you for your kindness

[@czywrench24]

Jeff, I love the way you think. I would 100% recommend using some type of barrier between the slab and whatever flooring one might choose. My house is over 100 years old and the cement flooring in the basement is only 2-4" thick. It was sloped so as to channel any water to one particular spot. I used the 1-Step DMX as an underlayment, built runners so as to even out the floor, and put 3/4 plywood subflooring with deck screws. I also laid a bead of construction adhesive on top of the runners before laying down the plywood. In-between the runners I stuffed in rigid styrofoam. Now my basement has an actual vapor barrier, thermal barrier, is level and insulated. It stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Cheer!!!

[@playthebassorama]

Thanks for this. I've got a 100+ year old house and am looking to put the TV room down there. What did you do on the walls? Do you have an air gap to connect with the one between the subfloor and concrete?

[@CiaranDoyle]

Hey Jeff - Thanks for all your great videos! I'm starting my basement reno for my 1950's house and of course vapor, water management, and temperature are all factors (fun I know!) Also, ceiling height is a concern as the ceiling varies from 6'8" to 7'2". Plan is to turn a chilly basement office into a not-so-chilly bedroom. Which approach would you recommend to balance height, cost and R value: Option 1. DMX + 1" rigid foam board + floating floor (10.5mm cork click together) = ~1.6" thick but decent R value (~R-5.5) Option 2. Dricore Insularmor (rigid panel w/ water mgt) + floating floor = ~1.4" thick and decent R value (~R-5) but pricey! Option 3. DMX + 19/32" plywood + floating floor (cork click together) = ~1.05" thick but low R value (~R-2.5) Option 4. DMX + 23/32" OSB + floating floor (cork click together) = ~1.25" thick but low R value (~R-2.6) Additional background: - I chose cork as it seems to have the best R value for my buck, but welcome alternatives (other than carpet or hardwood) - We have an egress window and french drains going in next month, so water mgt may not be as much of a concern as it's been historically - Plan is to put subfloor down then frame walls on top to minimize thermal breaks - We're in NY, so we "enjoy" all seasons and types of weather

[@georgephilis]

Thanks for revisiting the dricore gap issue - hmm, having second thoughts, although I'm not dealing with a basement, so I'm leaning towards the DMX + OSB sheets. Thanks a lot, enjoying your videos for years now!!!

[@daddydubs2024]

Perfect timing! I'm moving on to floors next week. I live in the Midwest in a 2007 home. No issues with flooding or moisture through the walls. Looking to save some money. Help me out Jeff, just like you always have in my past DIY projects!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

to save money you could always just drop your vinyl flooring on the concrete with an attached pad. It is just a basement. Cheers!

[@Sdcarney11]

Jeff, I’ve watched your videos for years and benefited more than I can say, so thank you! One question I’ve had and can’t seem to find anything or anyone that addresses is options or how to install flooring (subfloor, underpad, moisture/vapor barrier, type of actual floor, etc.) on top of an unfinished concrete garage/basement floor FOR A SAUNA. Even the prefabricated saunas (eg, Almost Heaven) require use of your existing floor (ie, flooring not provided). Given the increased/explosion in interest for saunas, cold plunges/tubs, etc., I think others would be interested and benefit from your thoughts/suggestions on this topic, and DIY saunas in general. Any thoughts/guidance? Regardless, thanks for all you do and keep up the great work.

[@flickboogers9325]

For my Karndean looselay flooring in my basement I just laid it right on my concrete. No humidity issues so didn't need a vapor barrier in the flooring has been awesome years later.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Nothing wrong with that either. Cheers!

[@Funktimusprime1]

Hello from New Brunswick! I love when you do these videos. I'm lifting an old house, pouring an all new foundation for a basement apartment. I was planning on doing the roll of dimple board with the DuroFoam on top, then laminate. The basement should be pretty waterproof considering it'll be brand new and have new drain tile. However, as it sits, the yard is a natural lake in the spring and a hockey rink in the summer. What do you think? Thanks!

[@JaredF235]

I love what you do with this channel. Your videos helped us out with our recent bathroom project. My wife and I live in a small 2nd floor condo unit with plywood subflooring that has separated and is sagging in various areas. For the most part we don't have a moisture problem, but we are looking for some good options to replace our subfloor/carpet with laminate flooring and a sound dampening underlayment. What recommendations would you have? Thanks!

[@jefferythornhill8735]

Jeff as always thank you for providing all these informative videos, I spent 2 years renovating my house before I decided to move back into town. A lot of your videos have helped. my current house does not have a subfloor system and is an older house so I need to worry about moisture management for subfloor just to be on the safe side. In my area (NL, Canada), I see 3 possible methods for subfloor. 1- tongue-n-grove plywood with plastic dimples, 2- Delta-FL floor underlayment with foam board on top before laminate flooring, or 3-Barricade Thermal Shield Subfloor Panel that allows laminate flooring directly on top. Any opinions on any of these 3 methods?? Would appreciate thoughts on these.

[@aaronnelson6126]

Jeff, your videos have been a huge help to me as I remodel my 1985 rambler here in Minnesota. My next project is finishing the poured concrete basement. I’ve watched your videos on subfloor options and wall construction. My question is should I apply a sealer to the interior concrete walls and floor before start any construction? If so what product, techniques, etc do you recommend? Love the channel! Thank you

[@ILLinois7024]

Have been such a help to me & can't begin to thank you enough & hello from Plano, ILLinois

[@jmac4313]

Followed your channel for years. When it was time to redo flooring in basement, we did geotextile fabric (good landscape fabric) to eliminate click of dimpled membrane over concrete, tuck taped, then folding 3 mm underlay, then 12 mm good quality laminate. Installed cold air return, too. What a difference in reducing moisture and better temperature comfort of basement (SW Ontario).

[@YellowBunchofBananas]

With the DMX product you shouldn't need the landscape fabric. You need it with something like Delta-FL because the dimples on that are hard plastic but with the DMX they are covered in foam and thus shouldn't click.

[@jmac4313]

@@YellowBunchofBananas I used the Delta, not DMX

[@YellowBunchofBananas]

@@jmac4313 Yeah the Delta needs the landscape fabric or it's click-click-click unless the subfloor is perfectly level.

[@Sean-Aviation]

excellent video! exactly what i was looking for. thanks

[@guillaumebergeron7622]

I just installed the dmx one step but the red one because they told me it was better for vinyl flooring in my 1970s house. We changed the french drains last year and wraped the foundation with a exterior membrane. We had issues with moisture when we first bought the house in 2020.

[@codemonkey21]

I always enjoy your videos. I do get occasional flooding in my basement (working on an exterior solution) of an inch or so. Legit had two floods in the first month I lived here. However my current finished floor is an ugly rubber interlocking tile that sites directly on the concrete. This works but I'm worried about mold under it over time. I've been running fans for almost a month with a dehumidifier. I've seen the dricore OSB panels in the big box stores but was always worried that OSB doesn't manage water well and would be a waste of money once they get ruined. The other Dricore foam panel seems like it might do the trick combined with a waterproof LVP on top. Never knew about it. This video was super helpful.

[@PolakMedic168]

Jeff, thank you for making these videos that are actually something a home owner can do! I have a fairly new home, under 10-years old. The whole house has an issue with how air tight it is, in fact some mold issues in the corners and windows all over the house. No actual wet spots on the basement floor... The question, what kind of barrier would you use in this situation, dimpled or the durofoam R-3 style in this video. I do have a door to the basement, no issue getting large sheets in. Also, unrelated to the flooring material, I need to hide a toilet flange in the basement floor, that was put in the middle of the room for some reason, any ideas on this? Maybe a future video?? Thank you for what you do! Hope you're doing well in the new year!

[@arielcohen7798]

Hey Jeff, My home was built in 1957. House came with a finished basement. Since we bought it, the basement flooded and I've had lots of work done to manage water coming into the house. I want to finish the basement myself. Beneath the house is clay and I think that is part of the reason water penetrates the concrete. Looking for a good subfloor to manage any future water issues.

[@Brian-tu7yn]

Thanks for all the information Jeff! I’m curious what the best choice would be for a new construction, dry, unfinished basement desiring carpeting.

[@rahamatbacchus4145]

Jeff, thanks for the info on DMX. It can be used for water/ moisture management in basement.

[@altarproperties8989]

I love your video. We had to solve a mold problem in our home that is requiring me to put in new flooring in our basement. Our house is 30 years old and we live in IA. We have had moisture in the basement, but the only time we get water is if the sump pump dies, and then its only a small amount around a crack. Here is what I did so far: I had the crack in the basement floor professionally patched, along with some other cracks. I fixed a grade problem in the front of the house. I also spray foamed the entire basement wall with closed cell foam. As I look at the underlayments, I see the problems you lay out in your video. They just don't have enough performance. Since I believe our sump pump and other things I did to mitigate water coming into the basement will prevent any water, we will just have high humidity I need to deal with. I don't beleive there is any vapor barrier or anything else under the concrete, and I am using vinyl plank flooring that has a pad attached. My goal: to be a thermal break and get the basement warmed up in the winter. Can I put vinyl plank directly on top of Duro Foam? (or foamular 250 if I buy from menards)? I'd rather not have to purchase OSB or plywood as well if I can avoid it. I like the idea of having 3/4 - 1" of foam insulation. If I cna use foam under vinyl plank I want to make sure its hard enough to support the joints in the vinyl plank. thank you so much for your help.

[@johng.4959]

Great info and Channel! Thanks for this!👍

[@williscarnegie5527]

Great video! Thanks for sharing

[@bmeyer4979]

You have saved me thousands over the yrs Jeff. I’m pulling out carpet in a basement that is finished and has playroom, gym and bedroom. It’s a 1930s build. I may have to level some of the floor but we are putting in a Shaw engineered hardwood tongue and groove. Probably need vapor barrier but what would be best?

[@mikejoseph3678]

Outstanding in your work

[@canadude6401]

I went with DMX 1-step (blue dimple stuff). I liked that it was lightweight, easy to roll out, easy to cut, and didn't take up much height. I saved lots of money and time versus what I was going to do....Delta FL with 5/8" plywood and anchoring with Tapcons. I used that saved money to have spray foam applied to the rim joists and walls. I also invested in adding air returns and re-routed some of the heat vents to floor level. The whole basement is super comfortable...in fact, it feels just as warm down there as the main level! The spray foam was the best thing we did and even though it wasn't cheap, it gave us a good bang for our buck. The DMX 1 Step on the floor gives me a thermal break and allows the concrete to breath effectively. Vinyl Plank flooring is going in this weekend directly on top. Can't wait!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@mattseverance8176]

How is the vinyl plank working out bring placed directly on the DMX 1 step? Any issues with the feel under your feet (movement of the vinyl?) thanks.

[@canadude6401]

@@mattseverance8176 It's held up very well for 2 months now. I went with a higher end 9mm vinyl plank. I didn't want a wavy look and I can't stand cheap products (5-7mm). Flooring isn't somewhere you skimp.

[@mattseverance8176]

@@canadude6401 thanks and I agree on not skimping on flooring.

[@EzekielGage]

This is awesome because we just got done walking around Floor and Decor Sunday . Having to rip all of the carpet and pad out of half of our basement due to animal pee. (Sister lived in my basement with her pets for a few years) Now I'm looking at putting in vinyl flooring and want some sort of underlayment so it's not like walking on ice as that's where my office is going to end up.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers!

[@bradpierce1770]

Thank you Jeff! Your channel & information have been so informative, best channel out there IMO. I am closing in a garage in Florida. The property was built in 1984. I confirmed with my own eyes that there is a thin layer of plastic under the concrete. Do you recommend that I use a subfloor system for water management & if so which one? No need for thermal break here. I will be putting down LVP. Do you recommend a rubber/foam backing or cork? Thank you again for taking the time to film all of these wonderful videos!!

[@coreyburlock3594]

Thank you for all the basement suggestions. Because of your videos I remodeled my unfinished basement to a movie room. Water management was concern number 1. My location has a high water table. Concern #2 was Ceiling height. Your videos made the decision for me. Used dimpled membrane with "Advantech" osb then vinal plank flooring. Here in northern Maine Advantech osb is very popular due to its 50 yr water proof warranty. Advantech has been around for around 20 yrs. I would love for you to give some thoughts on Advantech, pros and cons vs standard osb that you normally talk about/ use. Thanks again.

[@kenkurtz9899]

Did you anchor the advantech with tapcons? I want to do this same system, but am unsure if I should anchor.

[@stevek3627]

Jeff great video and oh so timely. We have a room that used to be half of a two car garage now turned bedroom. The house was built in 1989 and the area we want to cover is approx 15'x16'. Not concerned about moisture but really need thermal. Wife wants wall to wall carpet. Suggestions? Thanks for all you do! Great channel

[@douglasbender1456]

That was really interesting. I live in a ranch style house just across the Ontario border in Hudson, Quebec. The house was built in 1956. We moved here in 1998 and haven’t had any water infiltration issues in the basement. The main part of the basement is about 700 square feet with a concrete floor. There’s a second section under the bedrooms where the floor is gravel. The main part of the basement is used as my workshop, the gravel area is used for storage. I’d like to put down a water management and thermal break solution particularly in the main section. We had our house evaluated under the Fed’s greener homes program. One of the recommendations was to insulate the basement floor (thermal break) to get a 3.5R value. Since the main section is used as my workshop, I don’t plan (or need) to put down nice flooring. Suggestions ?

[@twodeadmice3321]

I used DryBarrier, was easy and it's an all plastic. Used vinyl plank (which had thin pad built-in) on top. was a budget basement carpet replacement.

[@bwc1956]

Wish this video was available sooner. I'm in the process of finishing my basement on a 2 year old home and spent a lot of time and did a lot of research before putting in the subfloor. I used the DMX One Step and tuck taped all the joints as well as tuck taping the DMX to the wall vapour barrier. Where I wasn't finishing all the way to the foundation wall I put down a heavy bead of concrete sealer between the DMX and concrete. I then used spray foam around the concrete wall perimeter. On top of the DMX I put 1 1/16 inch Durafoam R5 then 5/8 inch OSB T&G. The DMX web site says to use 15 tap cons per 4x8 sheet of OSB to fasten it down. They also said to squeeze some concrete sealer into each hole drilled through the OSB/Durafoam/DMX to maintain the vapour barrier. I looked at the black house wrap that DMX makes that was mentioned in the video. It does cost a lot less than the One Step and is much wider resulting in less seams but One Step is made from virgin plastic and the house wrap is made using a lot of recycled plastic. The process and chemicals used when recycled material is used results in a significant amount of foul smelling off gazing which could be an issue for a lot of people. I do have a slight problem. My grandson, wanting to help and surprise me, did some of this subfloor for me when I was away for a few days and left some gaps between the OSB T&G sheets. I'll be using luxury vinyl for the floor. Is there a product you could recommend to fill in the gaps please? (There's enough that I'm concerned but not enough to warrent covering the whole floor with self leveling compound.)

[@barbarahenn-pander5872]

Man, you are the best teacher. Thank you so much. 😊 Our scenario is a mid 70’s, Vancouver Special, slab on grade. The main floor has tile throughout and the floor is freezing in winter. My questions are 1) should we first rip up the tile or just install over it (it’s level)? 2) should we somehow assess the foundation slab, retroactively vapour barrier under the slab, and then test for moisture on the floor before even considering flooring options? - assuming this is even possible! 3) do our floor system options change if we want some on demand in floor radiant heating (electric) under our engineered hardwood ( how to not mail through the electric wires)? Love all your videos. You are wonderful; and Canadian just adds to the perfection. Many thanks!!

[@aaronpops4108]

I have a 1950 house with a 575sq.ft. Basement. The 3 things I have to work around are insulation(house in Edmonton), vapor barrier, and ceiling height (mostly over 7' of height but beams and hvac at 6'7" to concrete). Plan is to use the 1 step dimple mat(only ~ 1/4" thick), floor leveler where needed, possibly 1/2" high density foam, and then flooring. I'd be using the thicker foundation dimple mat on the walls, 2" xps board, and then framing.

[@brett1210]

Thank you for the valuable information. How do you deal with the tread height of the stairs after you raise the floor with a system like this?

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Jeff I am using Drycore with foam insulation because of access , very easy but going to use the DMX on top of Tile floor in basement, so I am using both, great video

[@dalelock2290]

ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE VIDEO!!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Dale. I appreciate that!

[@AbadHameed]

Hey Jeff. Avid DIYer here and absolutely love the channel. Incredibly knowledgeable. I’m planning a basement reno for a house built in 2021 in Southern Ontario, Canada. Don’t have enough window room to bring in large sheets.. I’m even a bit concerned about bringing in OSB from inside the house due to tight corners.. what do you recommend for sub flooring? Reno is on a budget AND thinking to do a laminate or engineered hardwood finish.

[@Mika30041975]

Thank Jeff. I am planning to finish my basement. I will go with the durafoam.

[@RoryVanucchi]

Good info. I'm near Rangeley ME and Pittsburg NH a few hours south of Quebec city so cold winters. Thinking of making the walkout basement a little nicer so some good ideas, main think is the best insulation and a bit of moisture protection.

[@Ididerus]

really getting into your videos! I'm doing a shop right now and trying to figure out how to floor the "habitable" portion, bare concrete in a non-conditioned space. No moisture to worry about, but it is somewhat uneven and very cold in the winter. If that wasn't enough, it needs to be "temporary" so that I can tear it out when I vacate, so no leveling with grout or anything. I'll probably go with laminate, but I haven't gotten to those videos of yours yet. Thanks, Anthony

[@theapocilip]

perfect every time

[@bryantsell3316]

Thanks for the quality content! Been watching for years! You've inspired me with confidence to do things I would've never tried otherwise; thank you. Regarding the tapcon/plywood method: How many tapcons would you recommend per sheet with this method? Additionally would you recommend this method in conjunction with a hydronic in-floor radiant heating system? Thank you!