A Pirate Shirt Tutorial that ACTUALLY makes sense | Free Patten + Gusset Instructions

Do just NEED one of those gloriously poofy sleeve white linen shirts? A poet shirt, a pirate shirt and an 18th century shirt? I'm here to help. These eighteenth century mens shirts are so irresistible and look good on everyone, just saying. From history bounding to reenactment, steampunk to cosplay these shirts are so versatile. Have fun sewing!!
xoxo
Ora (they/them)
Free Pattern!
ko-fi.com/s/9056d1ffba
💕tag me on Instagram @ora_lin with your shirt!💕
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Materials:
2 yards light-mid weight white linen (you may need more depending on the size, I recommend getting 3 yards if you're unsure)
Basting needles I use: amzn.to/3a1Or5n
Sewing machine:
1951 Singer 201-2
Buy me a coffee! ko-fi.com/oralin/
Instagram: @ora_lin
00:00 intro
00:52 Fit/Pattering
1:30 main body
3:16 collar
3:51 sleeves
5:33 shoulder reinforcement
6:09 neck gussets
7:30 under arm gussets
9:20 Thread pull. Is it necessary?
10:35 Lets Start Sewing!
10:52 hem the front slit
11:37 Setting in the neck gussets
13:51 attaching the collar
15:39 inserting the sleeve gussets
18:14 attaching the cuffs
21:34 setting the sleeves
25:23 buttons and buttonholes
26:43 final thoughts
27:08 Reveal!
For business inquiries only
[e-mail]
Camera: Panasonic g85 with kit lens amzn.to/3sZqgNy
Editor: Davinci resolve
All music from epidemic sound www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
*restrictions may (and definitely do) apply. But hopefully this video met your expectations.

[@jirup]

The trick to getting neat machine gathers is, 1. make sure you have used the longest stitch length available, 2. sew two rows of gathering stitches about 1/4" or 6mm apart, starting as close as possible to the same place, 3. after pulling on the treads to gather up the fabric, stroke the gathers with a pin to get them to lay neatly, 4. attach the collar (or cuff) in between the two rows of gathering stitches, 5. remove the lower gathering stitch that shows below the collar (or cuff).

[@Ora_Lin]

You’re absolutely right idk why the idea of doing two rows of gathering stitches for this completely skipped my mind.

[@nany____]

When using thin fabrics like cotton muslin you can do literally the opposite too! Set the machine to the smallest stitch and highest thread tension, it creates ruching and ruffles super easily, you just need to test beforehand how each sewing machine performs and how it looks on the chosen fabric

[@joannaalston469]

you can also comb the gathers to get them to lay straight!

[@catmcjune9811]

Idk if anyone will ever see this, but I have some thoughts on how to find the size of the arm hole. I attempted to make a shirt that had an arm hole the size I would for a set in sleeve shirt--which is a bit looser an arm hole than what Ora Lin first did--but it was too small. I think the reason it was too small was because of the dropped shoulder. If you are concerned about how to find the correct size of the arm hole--then measure on your fabric the DIAGONAL distance between the end of the should seam on the neck to the bottom of the arm hole. This is the place on your shirt that your hole arm will have to get through and is about where your arm pit will be sitting with the dropped shoulder. I hope this helps, if anyone sees it!

[@WaterNai]

@@catmcjune9811 What an excellent suggestion!

[@LittleIrishVampire]

My friend and I are following this tutorial right now and are SHOCKED at how easy it is all coming together! Especially since neither of us have EVER sewn anything before! You explain things so well and make everything accessible and simple. This tutorial allowed for our pirate dreams to come true!

[@InThisEssayIWill...]

First one I've seen that actually addresses my sloped neck! I hadn't seen anyone use neck gussets before! That's inspired! Anybody else hate purses, backpacks or anything else that is 'suposed' to slay up on your shoulders but is forever slipping off 😭😅

[@lynn858]

Keeping purse straps from sliding off your shoulder: On coats, or some dress shirts, the shoulder strap detail with a snap or button - that can be used to hold a purse strap in place. The origin is military, they're to attach the epaulette - the decorative shoulder bit, which shows rank on a dress uniform. That shoulder strap thing... it's also called an epaulette. They're also just a nice visual detail, and can be used to give the visual impression of different shoulder shape and size.

[@emmawelch]

I CANNOT thank you enough for talking through the underarm gussets and various ways to finish them. I've finished one hand stitched shift and the gussets are pulling apart a bit because I wasn't sure how to finish them and made some messy choices lol so THANK YOU

[@simonfraser3332]

why are enby's always the coolest people! like that hair. impeccable!!

[@melissel5648]

Just hoping back on here to say that after one and a half year, I have finally finished my shirt following this tutorial. It's the first item of clothing I managed to finish entierly and I'm so happy and proud, thank you for such a detailled and well-made tutorial !! (It might seem like a long time, I know, but as a complete beginner, a perfectionnist who did it 100% by hand and most of all, a severly disabled person when it comes to making stuff... For me it's a huge accomplissement)

[@memorysjournal]

Thanks for the neck and arm gusset discussion! I really like how you compared your previous makes to give a better idea of what happens to the shirt when you adjust these.

[@Ora_Lin]

you're welcome! Im glad I waited for a second shirt to make a tutorial

[@shannonc.5837]

thank you so much for this video!! ever since i saw bernadette banner’s pirate shirt video, i’ve wanted to make one, but haven’t gotten around to it yet. this video will be so useful once i do end up making it! i can’t wait to live out my best regency poet life :)

[@Ora_Lin]

Yesss do it

[@SherbetLollipop]

Thank you for this video. I've been wondering how to achieve this look as a plus size person while still achievibg the same look and ease as a straight size person. I've only ever seen a standard cutting guide. This makes sense, thank you!

[@Ora_Lin]

You’re welcome❤️

[@heatherblair1973]

Absolutely agree with this!

[@janalovespaper]

Ora Lin, you're not only a beautiful seamstress, you're a beautiful model. Thank you so much for taking your time to make this video and the pattern guide. I'm going to ATTEMPT this in a 12 month size for my grandbaby. IF, I can make it work, I'll send a picture so you can see for yourself what a fantastic video you made. It makes me feel like I can actually do this and I haven't done many clothes.

[@kellybrooke1753]

Thank you for going in depth into the neck gussets. I have some vague historical costuming experience so I started off using 18th century instructions, found them too confusing so I went to Bernadette Banner's video. Got stumped with the neck gussets and finally found yours. Your video has helped me get through the shirt so much faster. Lock-down project completed!

[@LittleIrishVampire]

As a Gender Fluid maker who has picked up this project as my first foray into historical fashion I found this video WILDLY useful. A ton of great information, clear instructions and visual explanations, and holy moly I actually understand gussets

[@Ora_Lin]

I’m so happy to hear that!!

[@lauralake7430]

Came here to say this

[@Ora_Lin]

1. Link the the pattern is in the description box ^ 2. Comment or message me on Instagram @ora_lin with any questions you may have! 3. Happy sewing!

[@sewwithmsjones1196]

I have been teaching sewing for 25+ years. You did a beautiful job explaining the process! I have been entirely hand-sewing my Mr. Darcy/Pirate shirt around doing other sewing projects, so it has taken a while.

[@Ora_Lin]

Thank you! And yes! This is a great hand sewing project for keeping in the back burner

[@jackiejames4551]

I have no intention of ever making one of these shirts, but you made it look so easy, that I might change my mind. Thank you, I'll add it to the list.😊

[@Ora_Lin]

Hehe

[@oliveocean96]

Ora, thanks so much for putting this together. I tried doing this shirt at the beginning of the lockdown and information was SCARCE and difficult to understand. This is by far the best guide out there, thanks for breaking it down for us beginners. Subscribed!!!

[@beeb6730]

I just found you this year through cosy and im so glad I did. Thank you so much for this tutorial it is so helpful. Ive modified clothes but only made light wear costumes from scratch and this was broken down enough that ii feel like ii could actually make myself a useable shirt. Thanks also for such great explanations about how to adjust each measurement, as an afab nonbinary person who is on the line between plus size and straight size clothes AND uses a wheelchair, clothes aren't made with my body in mind so knowing how to adjust this pattern is so so helpful. ❤️

[@Ora_Lin]

wow that means a lot ❤️

[@lucasmcinnis5045]

Gosh this is so helpful, I've been wanting to make one of these for a while, but trying to find my measurements, and then construction, every step felt like a challenge. Thank you so much for going so in-depth.

[@Macacihna]

I know I'm two years late but this is so helpful, thank you!

[@ahreum1598]

this feels weird to be commenting 2 years after the making of this video but i found it after attempting to make my own pattern for the first time and it did not go well in my paper and mini mock up. video is great to follow. so well explained that after watching twice, and following along once. i was able to adjust the sizing from the first shirt and make a really good one out of a gauze fabric completely on my own no help or following the video. it was explained so well that i even was able to find areas where i could sort of wing it to make it easier for myself. i made the shirt in a total of 3 working hours (1 for measurements and cutting with much stress and 2 for sewing) i get so many compliments on it. this was the 4th item ive made and the first where i did not use a pattern or a premade fabric for the item. i am just so excited to have found this video.

[@pammellasantana]

I'll be doing one of these after I finish the coat I'm currently doing. I made a couple of those already in different ways and my success rate is about fifty/fifty on how well they fit. To have everything broken down and explained like this really helped me to understand what I got right and wrong the other shirts I made before! 😊😊

[@Ora_Lin]

glad I could help!

[@megofyore]

I am blind and I understood your instructions perfectly! ☺️ I am making one of these. There’s only one little detail that isn’t yet totally clear. When attaching the under-arm gusset, do you fold it over itself, like you do with the neck gusset, or does the other half get attached to the body in the side seam? Thank you so much for making this video! 🙏🏼

[@Ora_Lin]

The other half gets attached to the body in the side seam. Happy sewing!

[@alxh3727]

So clear, so detailed, perfect sound and shots... thank you so much!

[@pv6450]

Thank you for taking the time to share so many details. Your explanations are awesome.

[@faitparchristine]

This is such a great tutorial!! Thank you for making this ❤️

[@christenagervais7303]

Fantastic tutorial! I was so confused and now I know what to do! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

[@MajaPlejada]

this is absolutely fantastic tutorial, so many things make so much more sense now. Thank you!

[@Avi2Nyan]

Thanks so much for making and sharing this! Love how you explain why you do certain things and how you both include instructions for hand sewing as well as machine sewing!

[@bmorgan7559]

This tutorial is excellent! So clear and I love that you included time stamps!!

[@nevem5010]

This is so thorough and instructive, thank you! I'm saving it to come back to 👍.

[@samanthasanford2742]

the gusset/armseye section was sooo helpful! thanks so much!

[@artsyfox7445]

Thank you so much for this tutorial! I’ve been looking everywhere for a good pattern, and this video just popped up on my fyp! Thank you again :)

[@lemmetalkaboutthis]

Am currently making a shirt like this, and so far this video is _very_ helpful

[@understatedchuckle]

Gold! I want to make one of these in the near future and I will DEFINITELY be rewatching this video then. (Likely with note-taking!)

[@raevynwoods9403]

Thank you for going so in-depth about the whole process, it was super interesting and I think it will be very helpful when I will (finally) make a shirt like this for myself. You looked amazing in the reveal footage! (And those suspenders are veryy cool)

[@Ora_Lin]

That you so much! Happy sewing!

[@karinkeeble1993]

Very clear. Can’t wait to get started!

[@localdummy3768]

Thank you so, so, sO much for this video! This is the most detailed tutorial I've seen yet and it is really helpful! I'm so excited to get started on my own!!

[@cd2street]

WOW some of the clearest explanations I have ever seen! Awesome, thank you :)

[@eliotatlas9713]

what an excellent video and tutorial! i've made a few shirts of my own already, but this really helped me figure out how to tweak the pattern i have to make it fit me properly :D

[@petraspickus9930]

seriously- thank you! this video really helped me! it was my first time actually sewing and the shirt I made was actually really good. your comments and suggestions also were really helpful. again- thank you!

[@nyisharandall1493]

Beautiful!!! You explained it so well, I love the way you modeled the shirt too! You are so talented.

[@lauraoergel6003]

The sleeve and gussets explanation was brilliant!!!

[@Ghostinasuit]

This was such a life saver!! I made a Shirt for my friend and now I’m making my own!

[@laylatafarojl7133]

Truly an amazing tutorial, thank you for it

[@sissia67]

Dear Ora Lin, thanks for all the explanations! It is so helpful. You are so nice and so ☀️. It is really a pleasure to listen 🙏🏼

[@MonsterMaker]

I have been struggling with trying to understand following Bernadette's video and have been horribly fumbling my way through machine sewing a shirt last night for 6 hours and have to learn through trial and error and the pattern just wasnt working for me so thank you so much for making a tutorial that goes into detail and makes more sense to me! I love the reveal and think I'm just going to start again!

[@Ora_Lin]

I’m sorry you had to deal with that but I’m glad i could help make things more clear! Good luck with your shirt!

[@audreygilmore7408]

thank you so much for this, it was so helpful! I'll be following this carefully tonight

[@tweevasquid]

i’ve been trying to find a tutorial to make a pirate shirt but i didn’t understand any of them - this is such a helpful video!! thank you so much 💗

[@gabydegraaf8567]

OMG this is so helpful, now I can finally sew my, very tall, husband his own pirate shirt. Thank you very much for this well explained tutorial 😊

[@custard_paradox]

thank you so much for this tutorial it makes so much more sense than the paid mccalls pattern i first bought will be subbing

[@barbiedesoto7054]

Tha k you for this great video! It’s so helpful! I’m making this for my husband’s Captain Hook costume but totally planning to steal it after that and wear it all the time.

[@elieyayaya9936]

LOVE this tutorial! thanks!

[@jolenecochran]

I just finished my own shirt based on your video and it has fulfulled all my comfy, poofy-sleeved, pirate dreams. I SO appreciate how well laid out the video is and how thorough your explanations are. This was so easy to follow and also to reference throughout the project. Thank you!!

[@Kate-py4mg]

I recently made this shirt for my Halloween outfit, it being the second piece of garment I've ever sewn. It's far from perfect, but I absolutely love how it came out! I was only able to make it thanks to your thorough instructions. Thank you so much!

[@carmenm.4091]

The slits on the bottom of the shirt are there to be able to put the ends easier between your legs, cause it also functions as under pants. Under breeches existed also but were less common. That’s also the reason why most shirts were knee length. 😊

[@skirtedgalleons]

Excellent tutorial, some very helpful points. Thank you!

[@jacquelinecebuliak5112]

wow, BEAUTIFUL job!!!

[@mjap-l4447]

Came for the shirt pattern, staying for the great descriptions and pretty cats. Thank you!

[@lylademange]

Thank you so much for your tutorial and patern 😍

[@ariverdreaming]

This is super clear and helpful! About to try my own

[@SuperStrawberryful]

This is super helpful! I'm sure the other tutorials are good but yours really helps to break it down for us. I think the other tutorials might be for people who are more experienced is historical garments and already kinda know what they're doing

[@M3gzL3gz]

I just wanted to say a big thank you for this video - I made my own with this and will 100% be making one again (my measurements were a bit off/too big but hey the VIBES were still good)

[@AndersWatches]

Amazing video, you’ve explained everything so well, even making the gussets simple. Thank you! I’m so confused by all the other tutorials 😅

[@KelwynAyla]

Bless you for that armscye explanation!

[@youruncleolaf4694]

i watched both bernadettes and halflings videos, and both were great, but this one has the best visual explanations. i've started making this myself (i chose to thread pull because im incompetent so i've cut out most of the bits now, will be up to sewing probably tomorrow) i was feeling so lost on some of this but this video has been so helpful

[@julieheath6335]

Very clear and useful tut!

[@mckayflint3539]

This worked so amazingly well!!

[@Ora_Lin]

happy to hear it!

[@kingscorn]

Thank you for this very helpful video. I am inspired to try this!

[@magdagopaul5225]

Thank you Ora!!! This is going to be my first historical piece thank you for the clear instructions! I am so excited!!

[@Ora_Lin]

You’re welcome! Happy to hear it

[@alissaimregeis]

thank you for this video! i really appreciate the way you talk through the measurement and intentions for fit and function for individual bodies. also the breakdown of parts of planning a shirt.

[@Ora_Lin]

Yay!

[@glorygloryholeallelujah]

*SQUEEEE!! THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO!!* I’ve been looking for patterns of this type of shirt for a few weeks, because I want to try making a 1700’s-esque nightshirt for my bro in law’s Christmas gift!!

[@liadanducky]

This is brilliant! Especially the neck gusset I’ve been struggling! Lol!

[@coreygilles847]

Thanks so much for this helpful video!

[@TheJDMforum]

Thank you very much a very helpful video and thank you for the free template!

[@RuthDoblo]

Fantastic tutorial! So much good info, definitely going to make one pronto

[@KaityBower]

The lighting in this video was so engaging I loved it

[@Ora_Lin]

Thank you😊

[@lauralake7430]

Thank you so much! I am going to try this again, having fluffed it following a different youtube

[@ByGollyMissHolly]

This is so comprehensive! Having made one of these shirts before it is oddly complicated for just a shirt, bravo!

[@Ora_Lin]

Thanks!

[@MischievousAngel7]

You are amazing, this really helped me!

[@gotica568]

Thank you so much, now I know how to approach my project :)

[@icemmag12]

You look so so good with the short hair!

[@sherryvanrijn5453]

Outstanding! Thank you so much!!

[@SnappyDragon]

i'll just be dying over how cool your reveal sequences always are 😵

[@Ora_Lin]

😛

[@yeoldepirate783]

great video,, I dig the old Singer,,, I dig that, those older machines were very pretty

[@BelindaTN]

Great job. I love it!

[@_kilimili_]

Thank youuuuu! this was very helpful!

[@gwen2015]

This is amazingly perfect for what I want for a pirate cosplay! I tried finding traditional sewing patterns and the closest I found was simplicity 3519 (discontinued), but even it didn't really look right. Thanks for the detailed explanation on cutting the pieces. As a female that weightlifts, it is always difficult altering mainstream patterns to fit my shoulders/back so this was a nice change to get it right from the get go!

[@karenkettering1725]

Just thank you!

[@yeoldepirate783]

Thank you for the free Pattern, This is a first for me !

[@caci9409]

omg thank you! i was looking into neck gussets a while ago and also couldnt find much about them, but they way you explained how they should be sized makes so much more sense than i could make of it! also learned my traps are barely visable lol

[@Ora_Lin]

Glad you found the video helpful!

[@paloma_hill]

this was so helpful, thank you!

[@danhurl1349]

You are an angel and my neurodivergent brain found this so helpful thank you thank you thank you

[@rebeccawright9508]

I'm so glad I found this video! I have a Ren Faire next weekend and need two shirts. This is the first tutorial that I've found that explains each step in depth!

[@Ora_Lin]

you're welcome!

[@this.is.kay.26]

Just finished making a wearable pirate shirt mock-up, and I really wish I’d had this video before starting all that! Oh well - this will be super helpful for mock-up #2 and the final shirt! Thanks for making this 💜

[@Ora_Lin]

yay! glad to hear it

[@haakdraakje]

Lovely shirt! Thanks for the tutorial!

[@Ora_Lin]

You're welcome!

[@feed8647]

Thank you for this tutorial, I just made my first hand sewn blouse! Sometimes you do not realise you need something until you see someone else sewing it :D

[@feed8647]

And now at the end of the tutorial I noticed I forgot to set in the shoulder reinforcements -_-

[@cinemaocd1752]

This video couldn't be more perfect for my situation. A while back I made an 18th century shirt for myself, but it is so large that it is a lot of work to fit it under my waistcoat an get it all into my trousers. I definitely need to modernize the fit a bit for my liking! The great thing about my original shirt is you don't really see any of my terrible sewing on the underarm gussets. LOL

[@yieldforpeace]

This was so well explained 👌🏼 and turned out so great 😍😍

[@Ora_Lin]

I love to hear it!!

[@violaraviola]

Thank you! I am planning to make one and this was really helpful 🦜🧡

[@oeleos6730]

idk if I'll ever actually make this shirt but it looks so good !!! well done :)