A Redneck's Guide to Vcarve Inlays: The SEQUEL!

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[@mikedurkee7296]

You sir are a teacher at heart... I'm a retired teacher so I believe I know what I speak of. Watched a couple of your other videos and I need to let you know there is a ton of great information in them AND presented in a manner that is clear, concise, and accurate. Thank you! now off to binge watch some more. Keep up the great work!

[@circleofowls]

I don't think I've seen this workflow anywhere else but it's critical to getting the perfect fit. I really appreciate the tip.

[@EdAgers110]

Thank you for this EXTREMELY valuable information regarding inlays. You have become my #1 resource for inlay knowledge on KZbin. In addition, your videos are just plain fun and mesmerizing to watch, especially your 3-part series about chess pieces, storage boxes, and chessboard. Your craftsmanship is top tier!! Keep it coming because it will, at the very LEAST, make the rest of us try to be better

[@MandSWoodworks]

Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for watching!!

[@StubbsMom]

Thank you! I'm new at CNC and haven't worked my way up to doing inlays yet, but your explanation applies to other things that I have worked on and now I have the knowledge that I can use to go back and fix some designs to make them better, and I'll be able to use as I go forward. You explain things really well and I will be watching your other videos now. Thanks again!

[@martingaydarov]

Thank you very much for the valuable information. To speed up the process of adjusting the image, you could use the Fillet tool in Vectric and just input your tool tip radius and with a single click fix all corners.

[@MandSWoodworks]

@@martingaydarov I've tried the fillet tool with mixed results. It doesn't trim just the area you are wanting to manipulate but a large portion of the vector and if you have enough tight angles like in my example in the video, it'll change it so much that it doesn't keep the original shape. I know my way is more tedious, but you stay in control and not lose a lot of detail. Thank you for the compliment and thank you for watching!

[@williesims7224]

Scott, I just watched your video, and although it is out of my field of expertise, I think you did another great job explaining a very complicated procedure.

[@MandSWoodworks]

Thank you sir!

[@kyleheine]

Always great info- could you please do a Vcarve video on a simple inlay setup? This explanation on vector cleanup is so valuable. It would be extremely helpful to us “hobbyist’s” to see how you create your tool paths, depths, etc. I have learned so much advanced techniques from your videos I’d really like to see the setup. I’m kinda stuck on simple things like- is it a Vcarve tool path for the inlay and a pocket for the plug, does the bit follow inside the line on the inlay and outside on the plug, what depths, etc. I’ve spent a lot of time creating a beautiful cutting board in Vcarve using the info on your videos but I’m stuck with actually creating the tool paths for it and eager to see this thing come to life!!!

[@MandSWoodworks]

I do plan on showing how I create my toolpaths in a future video so stay tuned! Thank you for watching!

[@MandSWoodworks]

And to answer you other question, don't create a separate pocket toolpath. Use the Vcarve toolpath for the pocket and the inlay. Use the clearing option and use a normal endmill to clear the pockets and then use the engraving bit to come behind for cleanup and to cut the proper angle in the walls of the pocket.

[@stevecox552]

That is so awesome!!! Thank you very much!!! learned a lot right there,,,, keep those kind of videos coming,,,, along with your great work.

[@Samadhiworks]

I was happy to see a new video from you! Love your style. Thank you for the knowledge.

[@3d-cnc245]

Well done explanation! 👏

[@s.peters947]

Thanks for sharing, would the Fillet tool work instead of creating all the circles?

[@MandSWoodworks]

I've never had good luck using the fillet tool. It's never consistently rounded off the corners. In some cases it shortened the length of the vector way too far. Thank you for watching!

[@tommcnally2803]

Scott, Thank you, your videos and Onefinity FB Group blog posts are wicked helpful (I read each one and each comment section)! I've done various test cuts and am getting very close but seems harder to insert than what your videos depict. Not sure if YT comments section is the place for a couple questions or if messaging through the FB Group is more appropriate but the few questions I have are: Are you still using the parameters as used in your previous video "Redneck's Guide..." (.0 Start with .25 Flat; .27 Start with .01 Flat)? In previous posts you've mentioned updating the TBN Bit to be an 'Engraver' in VCARVE... I added a brand new tool and entered the geometry for my bit as it was originally listed in the tool library but used the drop down menu and used the 'engraving' option instead of tapered ball nose. Is this what you are recommending here? Also, on setting up the clearance instead of inserting a cutting circles is it the same to go through with the fillet at the known diameter?

[@MandSWoodworks]

Thank you for the kind words, Tom! To your questions... Parameters: I have changed them up a little bit, but not by much. After I made that video, I had to change out my Spindle due to a bearing failing. Once I installed the new Spindle, just for laughs I re-calibrated the Z stepper's travel and after a cutting a few inlays I discovered that I could back off the start depth to a more logical setting to match the depth of the pocket of the Base/Female cut. So now, I am currently using: Base/Female - 0.0" Start - 0.25" Flat Depth. Inlay, Male, Plug - 0.25" Start - 0.01" Flat Depth. Vectric Tool Settings: Yes, I show the TBN to be an Engraving bit in the TOOL TYPE drop down in the Tool Database settings. Regarding your last question 'Setting up the clearance...', I am sorry but I am not following. Can you word it differently?

[@tommcnally2803]

@ awesome thanks for replying. Still plugging away the tests. They’re coming out good just not getting the glue gap that is expected and wicked tight. Your sequel video from a couple months ago- you edit the drawing to provide greater clearance for the tbn by inserting circles and then trimming them. I was copying this method but realized you can use the fillet tool and specify the diameter. Just saves a few steps and time unless there’s a reason the fillet tool should not be used?

[@MandSWoodworks]

@@tommcnally2803 Oh!! I am following now... The fillet tool works in some situations, but not all. At least for me. The reason being is that if you watch closely when you use the Fillet tool, it doesn't change just the immediate area you are editing, but it changes a good bit of the vector for a fairly long distance and if you have several areas that are close together, like the example I used in the video, it will actually begin to change the shape of the vector image. So with that, I know my method is much more tedious, but it is definitely more accurate in that it only changes the exact area that you are working on. I hope this answered your questions. Thank you for watching!

[@braddoesitall]

Have you seen better cut quality when using your tapered ball nose bit versus a 15° V-bit? Your bit has a total included angle of 10.52°, so not a huge difference in the angle. The V-bits that small typically only have a single cutting flute, so that is one big difference. Also, do you use a V-carve engraving toolpath for the male plug?

[@MandSWoodworks]

No, cut quality has never been an issue for any of the bits I have used. Though they do get dull after extended use. It's important to understand that the narrow angled bits aren't true v-groove or vbits. The narrowest angle that I have found in a vbit is 30 degrees. The narrow angled bits that are tapered ball nose or engraving bits don't have an infinite tip like a vbit. They have a flat tip and behave differently than a Vbit does. I have seen some 15 degree bits called "V-Groove" but they have a flat tip on them and fail at inlays if you have them specified as a vbit in Vectric. I have them specified as engraving bits in my settings. If you know of a 15 degree that is a true vbit with an infinite tip, please share because I would be very interested to try it. Yes, I use the Vcarve toolpath for the base and inlay cuts. Thank you for watching!

[@wolfspawwoodworks]

This is the first vcarve inlay video that I have seen that shows how to make vectors suitable for vcarving. Great job! Do you have any advice about the minimum size of the plug (male) closed vectors that are islands? That is to say, they are only supported by their base.

[@MandSWoodworks]

I strive to match the depth of the inlay to the depth of the pocket so there is no glue gap, and the inlay seats to the floor of the pocket when gluing, for that very reason. But it's definitely not easy to do if you haven't done inlays before. I suggest that if you are just starting out to try and put your cuts in order so that any inlays that are an 'island' are cut last, and into another inlay so it has something to adhere to. Here is a link to a video where I talk about a zero glue gap and I show an example of it. It's one of the first videos I ever posted on KZbin, so forgive the horrible video. Ha! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmTamZ-Beaarj7s

[@kyleheine]

Great video- I’m curious how and why your vectors were “auto joining” after you closed the snippet tool? Were you doing that through multiple clicks and editing that out of the video or is there a setting for that?

[@MandSWoodworks]

What you are calling the snippet tool is actually called "Interactive Trim" in Vectric. When you open the trim tool, you will see a check box at the bottom of the menu, "Rejoin trimmed sectors automatically". Make sure that box is checked, and when you make a cut, when you close the trim tool the vectors will rejoin automatically. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!!

[@davidsisson5976]

Well done

[@kyleheine]

I just bought a few Jerray detail ball nose bits including the one you’re using here. My issue is I cannot find the feeds and speed for these bits- the 3.92, 4.82 & 5.26. I’m hesitant because of their small tip size to use the “process of elimination” method and potentially break one. Can you help point me in the right direction on getting the parameters/specs for these bits? I don’t own any other Jerray bits and I can’t even find a website with any info other than buying them. Any help would be much appreciated.

[@MandSWoodworks]

In regards to doing inlays, you can throw the feeds and speeds chart out the window because normal recommended feed rates will be too harsh. When cutting inlays, I generally run 40ipm on the speed rate. And sometimes slower if I am cutting very dense hardwood. The speed you can run between 12k and 16k with no issues as long as the feed rate is slow. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!

[@dian3145]

Well thought out and presented. Because you would want some meat in the inlay, would you double the diameter of the tip of the bit? Thanks so much!

[@MandSWoodworks]

@@dian3145 It depends on how complicated and detailed the image is that you want to use as the inlay. If it has long narrow vectors that you would want to preserve, say like a vine on a flower, absolutely. Something I failed to mention is that in those areas where you bit doesn't cut very deep, they can easily be sanded away when you're finishing it. That's why I mentioned that in some instances, I will increase the diameter of the circles I use to edit to allow a deeper cut. Thank you for the compliment and thank you for watching!!

[@petebuehn7789]

Great explanation, Thanks for sharing. Curious why you don't us the fillet tool.

[@MandSWoodworks]

The fillet tool never worked very well for me. Most of the time it shortened the length of the span too far and changing the shape of it as well. The way I did it in the video is indeed tedious and time consuming but it insured that I only manipulate the exact part of the vector I wanted. Thank you for watching!

[@naturesliveedge9849]

@@MandSWoodworks That makes total sense, never thought of that. Investing time in good vectors always pays off. I appreciate your reply!!

[@timadams7274]

This answered a lot of reasons my inlays have failed so far. I have two stupid questions. 1) I see everyone doing end grain inlays. Is this just because they’re inlaying cutting boards and end grains are king in the cutting board world, or is it because end grain carves better for intricate inlay work? I don’t have the equipment for end grain glue ups, so I’m learning with face grain inlays. 2) How does one overcome the ‘fear’ of shoving a .010 TBN a quarter deep inch into a piece of hardwood in one full depth toolpath?

[@MandSWoodworks]

These aren't stupid questions, I assure you. 1. You are correct. End grain is King for 2 reasons: (1)- Because End Grain cutting boards are considered premium cutting boards because they are very knife friendly. A knife will dull very easily on Face grain, but will stay sharp by cutting on End Grain. (2) Yes, End Grain carving is tons more forgiving than cutting Face grain. You can't get smaller details in face grain without a lot of tear out. Once you have carved in End Grain, you'll see what I mean. It's night and day difference. 2. Again, End grain is more forgiving on the bit was well, especially on the deep plunges. You can still break a bit in a heartbeat if you push it too hard, but End Grain is easier on the bit. To be safe, I only run about 30 to 40ipm when doing an Inlay/Plug cut. Any faster and they will break, even in End Grain. I hope this answers your questions. Thank you for watching!

[@markperkins9437]

Good video!

[@MarkLindsayCNC]

Brilliant as usual!

[@MandSWoodworks]

Thanks buddy!

[@tallflyer]

Seems like someone at Vectric should watch this and automate this process. I’m curious about what aspects of the Vcarve Inaly tool path make you “not a fan?”

[@MandSWoodworks]

In general, it's the workflow of the toolpath. I like how it does the math for you and creates the negative/inlay/plug toolpaths for you instantly, but if you make a mistake in the settings, or even just change your mind and want to use different cut settings, you have to delete ALL the tool paths you created and start from scratch. Whereas if I use the old method, I can just edit the tool paths without having to delete them and start over. And finally, the most obvious complaint is that you can only use Vbits in the toolpaths. It is incredibly difficult to impossible to achieve deep and detailed inlays with a Vbit and you need to use a much smaller and narrower engraving bit or tapered ball nose to do it, and the Vcarve Inlay Toolpath will not allow you to use those bits. It has great potential, but needs a bit more thought put into it, imho. I hope this all made sense. Thank you for watching!

[@YvonLangevin]

Very good video , well done