A Tour of Black Rocks with Johnny Dawes - Gaia, Angel's Share, No Handed climbs and the Hardest E1

A tour of the iconic Black Rocks, a personal favourite crag of climbing legend Johnny Dawes. Steeped in character, it's been home to the hardest route in the country on multiple occasions and Johnny's shares the stories of these and the first ascents he's developed there, such as Gaia (E8) and Angel's Share (E9)
Check out Johnny's website www.frictioneering.co.uk
Tor & Edge Climbing Clothing at www.tor-edge.com

[@HumSlow]

Quality. Could listen to Johnny chat about Crags and routes for years.

[@WellingtonIronman]

Jonny gives routes the BEST names.

[@dominicestebanrice7460]

That was really worthwhile; Johnny's always been a compelling story teller but he's also apparently a virtuoso improv cragging historian. Brilliant. Thanks. Looking forward to episode 'Burbage South'!

[@paulmitchell5349]

Me too........

[@monkeypeat]

Absolutely love this Johnny, great memories! Also, finally a bit of recognition for my pole skills. Ha ha ha ha, I remember you sending me up Velvet Silence as well, saying it was HVS or something and after managing it I looked it up later and nearly wet myself at the grade. Positive sandbagging. LOVE you man!

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Very groovy indeed Andy x

[@primus7776]

"Low Gravity Days" I like that. I'm 68, and it resonates!

[@stuart7403]

I'm only a humble scrambler and normally find climbing videos quite boring because of all the waffling about grades and equipment. However, I have found the three videos you have uploaded so far to be very interesting. I think these videos could well become a very valuable archive of climbing history because you're clearly more than qualified to recount the journey of establishing the routes rather than the usual dull tradition of stating the grade, year of first ascent, and the name of the person who first climbed it first. Thanks Johnny.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Really appreciate your support.

[@richardbradley1532]

Such a character. Brilliant

[@phillewis3108]

I just noticed these videos are all really new. It seems Johnny started putting videos just a few weeks before I thought, “Whatever became of Johnny Dawes”. Keep them coming. This stuff is doubloons: solid gold treasure.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Just doing what comes to mind. There is Lot more to come and not just somethings for sale.

[@niallgrimes3642]

Great Video, thank you. Johnny Dawes is such a great listener.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Cheers Grimer

[@niallgrimes3642]

@@johnnydawesofficial yer golden mate x

[@MeikleholmCottage]

Excellent work and great scenery

[@aledge6317]

Great video thanks 👍

[@middle-agedclimber]

What a treat this short film is. I think it is safe to say there is absolutely no rock comparable to sandstone.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Slate in some ways

[@chrisedwards2983]

Absolutely glorious Johnny. Loved every minute.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Thanks Chris

[@Skrellington]

Such a joy seeing this, love the insight from one of the greats.

[@lukeglaister81]

Class that was. Wish it was longer. 👍

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Bear that in mind

[@philipmcdonald5629]

Only just noticed your channel and enjoying it so much. I was listening to mr malcontent yesterday and thinking about climbing. I also need to eat less cashews

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Quite nice though, aren't they

[@derekryden6574]

In my 50+ years of climbing I've watched Johnny Dawes morph from a cocky little upstart into an amiable old dude in a tweed jacket - and he's still climbing about ten grades harder than me!

[@johnnydawesofficial]

I can't disagree with that.

[@lillale78]

Hi Johnny, just wanted to say how refreshing it is to see your videos... looking forward to the next ones. Nice to see you are keeping well too. Alessandro (from a long time ago in Brighton)

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Nice one Alessandro

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Thyroid is dodge but trying to sort it. Rock needs some love

[@lillale78]

If you ever come to the Lake District let me know!

[@johnnydawesofficial]

@@lillale78 will do.

[@lmnts-climbing3723]

Love this stuff!!

[@andycross2192]

Ww1w

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Ta

[@stonegrit]

Johnny in his mature age a squire . " a shield bearer or armor bearer of a knight. : a male attendant especially on a great personage. : a man who devotedly attends a lady : gallant." 😊❤️

[@andrewgilbertson5356]

Black Rocks a great spot

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Playful and uncompromising

[@robkennard1867]

Nice to see you making these videos John. I remember you staying in the loft space at the Snowdrop in Lewes(whatever happened to Ruben?), and the whole of the southern sandstone scene being lit up by your exploits for a short while. Loved your other video about comebacks and motivation- its a real struggle isnt it!?

[@johnnydawesofficial]

I am still in occasional contact with Reuben. They were great times. Its a dreadful shame how life whisks up our social life if we travel and follow our personal needs. I will just treasure the memories and the time on the crags too.

[@chrisharris749]

Absolute style icon!

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Bless

[@senorblondie]

Thanks for the tour and beta. 👊🏽 Tim Clifford always blew me away with what he could do. It was nice running in to him again in Squamish years ago. Such a humble crusher... Years ago my buddy John Wainwright told me a story, if I recall correctly, about you blowing out your finger by jumping up and cranking out a one arm on a crimp edge on some rafter in a club in Australia. Any truth to that??

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Would have remembered that? At the leadmill maybe

[@paulmitchell5349]

Nice Rock Umbrella ( chee dale.... ) . I did most of the Gaia moves on top rope in 1979. Fortunately I couldn't manage the move into the groove off the ledge ,in EBs. J D ( and Woodward ) put the grade up on the grit. There is indeed a next level project or 2 at Black Rocks. ,around 7C English.

[@johnnydawesofficial]

That was a find?

[@johnnydawesofficial]

It would be a nightmare in EB,'s on lead... Werr

[@rolandjung8297]

Respect

[@MartynThomas1]

@8:35 "The bears would jump on top of VW Beetles, because it popped the doors, which is really clever, because they'd then be able to eat the people inside".

[@thepsyentwist8452]

Out of interest sir do you still have the picture of yourself jumping through your hands atop nelsons column when you and jerry moffat were protesting for the inuit? All links to that seem to be dead

[@johnnydawesofficial]

It's in my book at least

[@julianmcgee5741]

Isn't that a huge lateral chip on the slopy mossy boulder? You can see the chisel/screwdriver marks. Who chipped that? Johnny?

[@johnnydawesofficial]

It's a great question. The story goes it was for an impromptu dwellings rain gathering. There are two holes in the side wall that also suggest that. No idea when it was done

[@lizarddronedude3617]

It's no wonder. what he has achieved with an analytical amind like this and memory

[@zoaxanthellae]

He looks like a wizard pretending to be a muggle

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Brilliant

[@ScotchGambino]

Rappel Indian face and tell the tale!

[@johnnydawesofficial]

Interesting idea

[@thepsyentwist8452]

I really wish I hadn't watched that on the tail end of ketamine

[@PadWolden]

I live 2 minutes away

[@robertwilliamson8711]

And no one says 'send'.

[@roylong4830]

Promo sm

[@lizarddronedude3617]

Y local drag just10 mins away om my little yam DT125 back, in73gBrie, regan sent me this link big head isherwood and myd ear friend