A trick everybody (but me) knows!

[@antontaylor4530]

AvE: "We could just make our own repository of fantastical gizmos, gadgets and sundries, and download it for free" Thingiverse.com: "Am I a joke to you?" Everyone else on earth: "Yes, you are a total joke to us."

[@blanknone5408]

Don’t forget about Physables on TPB as well.

[@DragongeekAndCo]

Thingiverse's search is terrible

[@MillerMachineWorks]

You said it, organization sells and McMaster has spent decades creating a system of such so we can find our oddities. problem with the printed bushings is they end up with flat spots real quick

[@rianmach9043]

Grabcad>>>. Thing I verse hate the splodeybits

[@byroboy]

@@MillerMachineWorks in the right application bushings can last decades. Not so much 3d printed ones though.

[@Mostlyharmless1985]

“You wouldn’t download a car!” Give me a few more years...

[@snoopdogie187]

You can probably already download all the 3d printing files of each piece of a car. It just might take time to find them. Most area already probably on McMaster also.

[@NovaNinja_]

"You wouldn't download a bear" *JUST YOU FUCKING WAIT*

[@joshuahuman1]

NovaNinja they are devoloping bio printers for organs nothing says they can’t print other things

[@daemonelectricity]

You wouldn't download a safety goat.

[@jeromyrehling6043]

My exact thoughts 😂😂😂😂

[@rossfudd256]

Four packs! But at least they're the same price!

[@darkwinter6028]

It’s probably not the model; 3D printers need an adjustment to compensate for hole diameter shrinkage. There’s a setting for it in every slicer that I’ve used...

[@dadbodthirsttrap]

I came down to the doobly doo to mention the same thing.

[@SKelly326]

Also I typically print threads vertically, they'll come out a bit cleaner. Offsetting the thread face by .1mm also helps give a little clearance

[@KevinPetersonmoonismyhome]

I like to print the threads then run the tap through. The tap only removes a little material, the wall thickness keeps a consistent thickness, and the threads are nice and smooth from the tap.

[@nrs91]

you can do test prints to check dimensional accuracy and adjust your extrusion rate to ensure accurate prints... though Prusa Mk3S seems pretty accurate off the bat using PLA prusament

[@didgitalpunk]

@@squidcaps4308 dunno wich 3D printer you're living under, my stock Cetus 3D works with threads all the way to M3 with a 0.4 nozzle. Threads come out clean and useable right out the print bed.

[@Satchel456]

As an engineer I LOVE McMaster because of their models. You know how much time I save at work when I'm designing something and I can download the parts from the vendor???

[@padraicmcguire108]

Crackmaster Carr sells to industrial giants who arent going to put such parts in anything they build for production. They offer it as an option because it does help with prototyping etc. A few jackwads using this to avoid spending $20 is not gonna cost them anything, they were never customers in the first place!

[@DeliriumTremensTWU]

Yep, I use it to test stuff before buying it. It's nice to test it in assembly and then print it out before buying.

[@hawtpotato90210]

I'm sure the real customers do do this to be sure the parts they order 100 of will fit. This is classic feature vs bug.

[@BlueCollarBachelor]

@@hawtpotato90210 This exactly. We print something in a few hours to check fitment, then order the stuff and have it the next morning.

[@johngaudi8546]

So really AvE just gave them a bunch more leads for free. It may not be a huge Revenue stream but hey free money is free money. And on the ones they don't convert into actual orders doesn't really matter because like the first commenter said was never going to be a customer anyhow.

[@volundrfrey896]

Yeah it's there for the same reason as the engineering drawings, just for the modern age where no one wants to pay an expensive engineer to rebuild the object in cad.

[@RobbySauce]

you wouldn't download a car, would you?

[@camerontb3554]

Omg robby your here

[@TheTurinturumbar]

Hell yes I would.

[@xpkareem]

Pretty sure I would.

[@MichaelBabcock]

Why not?

[@bo0tsy1]

They are 3d printing houses, JDpower will have to adjust safety rankings for 3d printed cars made of nerf, my car weighs 2 lbs, but the battery weighs 500.

[@chrislaw3329]

If you go to bodies->right click the body->save as stl you don't have to wait for the cloud

[@blubb7711]

Yep, found this out just a couple of days ago and it saved me hours of my life already!

[@PORTERAZAZO]

I was about to give the same tip. ;)

[@DavidMoreno-od9dh]

That is what we like to call a "Pro Move".

[@sprusedgoose162]

or just click the 3d print button

[@davemarm]

@@DavidMoreno-od9dh Pro Tip and only the tip

[@The_Gallowglass]

Dolphin slayer. That joke was made on porpoise. :D

[@chloedemeter5473]

Gonna catch 6 bottlenoses at once with that thing just watch.

[@superusermode]

Pro Tip: a keg is just a bigger beer can.

[@JasonW.]

Cheap beer is cheap beer, but a half gallon into a keg and you no longer can tell or care

[@Alexander_l322]

Jason W half a gallon? You fucking light weight

[@TurningGuns]

Or a beer can is just a smaller keg.

[@johnwestenberger3860]

Also qualifies as a Bro Tip

[@nunjasozusagen]

"Is it any good?" - I don't know, but there's a LOT of it!

[@LazerLord10]

Why did my brain never think of combining McMaster models and 3D printing. I've been doing both for years.

[@joedell71]

Grainger and MSC do it as well. You just have to look for the tab on the page and it brings up the model

[@aprecision4013]

the only downside is that they model all the threads on all the fasteners. You do an assembly with their downloaded parts and you have 50 fasteners you can watch your graphics card launch into a low earth orbit

[@Turbochargedtwelve]

That’s what shrinkwrapping is for

[@Love2Destroy]

the ol GPU china syndrome

[@Rowynn71]

if you can edit one of the real CAD software formats (IPT, SLDPRT, etc) download that and just turn the thread feature off

[@j1d22]

it's just a matter of time before someone makes a lower poly version or a compatible version and uploads it to thingiverse

[@Motorcross520]

If you can get ahold of Inventor, Autodesk has a content center library that has the majority of bolts, nuts, and structural shapes for the choosing. And none of their parts have the threads cut. It's more of a texture on the threaded surface. Makes it a little easier on older hardware.

[@securi-t]

Pro tip: You can import McMaster-Carr parts directly in Fusion without using their website.

[@ulrichs.3228]

Don't let BigClive find out you got his disco beer!

[@sambunka3085]

No browser needed! Fusion360-->Insert-->Insert Mcmaster Carr Component

[@RevampedOutdoors]

Yup, make sure you go to part details and do 3d step file it will insert as a new component

[@IbraheemMoizoos]

The Pilly foam is an enginerding design to allow you know when the contents are warm enough to consume.

[@stonecraft745]

"Confusion 360" almost pissed myself😂

[@zolof911]

Is it not true?

[@FroggyMosh]

@@zolof911 >> Came in. Made a 360 degrees turn and walked away. In a sense the meme actually works here.

[@jeremydumoit4487]

Also, that's the filthiest 3D printer I've ever seen

[@duminicad]

he's a filthy old man, what can I say?

[@Ki113dbysw0rd]

iffin' your bench is clean, y'ain't workin on nothin!

[@chadsimmons6347]

Looked like the cat used it for a litter box

[@ts3dprints732]

You haven't seen mine. That shit gets everywhere.

[@HE-162]

I’m firmly convinced that anyone whose 3D printer doesn’t look like a rats next that fell off a truck A) doesn’t print quality B) doesn’t use their printer. I’m not sure how either of mine are still working but they print excellent parts and they make me lots of money !

[@DisposableExtraNumber1138]

Hey Ave, that "thred shrinkage" tends to happen when the model is created by the designer. This happened to me several times before I got the process down to achieving damn near perfect fit threds. The designer, when making the model will forget (or not be aware) about the printer's "nozzle diameter. If you got a 0.4mm printer nozzle, that shoots out hot schmooo along a path, the schmooo is gonna go 0.2mm to one side of the nozzle's path and 0.2mm to the other side. Ergo if the model has a 12mm hole path to follow, the inner and outer walls are going to be 11.6mm and 12.4mm respectively. That being said, you could always "scale up" the model by a few percent in the Slicer App to accommodate for the error in design. Hope this helps! Now, release the schmooo!!

[@acromatfpv894]

@Indosarnia *Swing*..and a miss.

[@somanayr]

I bet this actually isn’t too bad for them - you print the part, and then if you want to do a production run later your design already includes their part!

[@samhouston1288]

Yeah, that seems like a pretty good deal. 3D printing is mainly for prototyping. You probably want the real deal to be made out of metal, and even if you do need a plastic part, 3D printers aren't made for mass production.

[@kissa02]

I honestly don't purchase machine legoblocks like that unless i can get a cad file of it in a reasonable way.

[@Scrogan]

Yeah, they’d make fuck-all from one-off purchases anyhow.

[@imshanedulong]

They'll never close this loophole. For the reason you stated, and the fact that the CAD models are one of the main reasons people use McMaster-Carr. Engineers rely on that. They get rid of that, they're just a more expensive Fastenal.

[@bur1t0]

Also, they're selling shit made out of metal.

[@Psychlist1972]

The Dad in me kept yelling "Close the damn fridge!"

[@dr0zdo]

this McMaster 3D model importing thing is officially supported, its even directly available in Fusion 360 in Insert -> insert McMaster-Carr compnent :)

[@solcrusher]

Nothing bothers me more than not having CAD models for parts directly available on the web. Many connector manufacturers require you to ask your sales rep for a model....

[@Sykotik_]

"You wouldn't download a Pulley!"

[@brandenhennnessee1032]

I've always called the "dolphin slayer" a turtle necklace.

[@TheBrewjo]

I hadn't seen those things since the early 90's here in Australia, they've been banned. However exploring exotic imports like Pabst Blue Ribbon recently I had enough to build a drift net to catch an entire pod of dolphins...

[@jaybloggs8699]

@@TheBrewjo as they should be.. BANNED

[@JeffSlover]

It's funny that you mentioned that they buggered the thread pitch. I was just thinking that they would be evil geniuses if they were to intentionally efff up the files to download from their website to keep the honest people honest, or at least make the rest of us work a little harder for it.

[@jd52wtf]

haha.... The second you said 3D printing then opened up McMaster Carr I knew right where this was going. Been doing this for years.

[@mountain177]

I'm gonna have to try this now!!

[@TehSquare]

I figure that they keep it open since producing parts at scale with the same mechanical properties isn't something 3D printing can match quite yet. However, if you're looking for a replacement part, or aren't sure if something will fit or work the way you think, why not print it out and test fit it?

[@halifaxmax5039]

That's what I was thinking. "It could work, maybe!? Heck lets print it, if it fits we'll order a few". Easy business, safer than asking the tech support guy cause he don't know jack, and far fewer returns to process.

[@phrostbit3n]

Especially prototyping -- having free trials of all their parts for guys to fuck around with only makes them money

[@FireCat005]

The mechanical properties are the big one, I once designed and had printed a set of center caps for some wheels because I didn't like the ones that were sold for them and they were $26ea extra. Lost 7 of them before I eventually gave up on using them.

[@fhqwhgads1670]

BMW 3-D prints lots of parts. Those on-line orthodontist setups? 3D Printing at scale. -the 3D printers they use just don't use the same additive process that your home gamer 3D printers use.

[@TehSquare]

@@fhqwhgads1670 Yep but laser sintering or other metal printing techniques, ceramic printing, and plastic sintering isn't quite affordable for home gamers yer.

[@noahhastings6145]

"Would you download a Crackmaster Carr?" If I could print it, yes.

[@IRRob.]

You can also go - Insert>MCmaster-Carr component from inside fusion and get the part that way

[@joshhand9766]

I have been doing this for 3d assemblies using parts from them, but I never thought of printing them. I don’t think I could print 1-64 screws or spring ball plungers, but your thumbnail gave me an idea. Lemme splain: I print parts used in assemblies that I used to machine... now I print most of it, and I never thought of nesting another part inside that wouldn’t interfere with my tolerances... gonna try it.

[@bobbobbington1132]

I doubt that McMaster will ever kill the 3d models. They are extraordinarily useful for engineers doing prototyping and even production runs. They help sell parts. Personally, when I'm prototyping stuff I only use off the shelf that I can get a model of, just because it saves so much time.

[@Manofcube]

If you need a timing pulley, there's a big OpenSCAD file on thingiverse that allows you to configure and export any possible kind of a timing pulley. Including special features for 3d printing like embedding nuts so your grub screw has something to bite on. www.thingiverse.com/thing:16627 (Also, don't use the thingiverse "customizer" its slow. just get OpenSCAD and edit the file manually, it's all commented)

[@ZappyOh]

Brilliant! Thanks.

[@AlexKall]

Thank you!

[@boobrowsky]

and thats why we love internet- its open, not corps clouds and huricanes of patents

[@EmyrDerfel]

If you're into code-generated models, IceSL is like OpenSCAD, but with built-in printer simulation and gcode generation, with a library of printer and filament profiles you can tweak, various infill and support algorithms. The scripting language is based on Lua, but it's pretty close to OpenSCAD's syntax.

[@Motorcross520]

From working as a drafter/designer at a small manufacturer, McMaster is a godsend. We save time drawing, and they usually end up selling us a part for cheaper than if we tried to make it. Until you can get decent metal parts out of the hot snot CNC, McM isn't losing any real business.

[@randomname00001]

"You wouldn't download a car" HA WATCH ME

[@heyallenify]

Agreed! I'm also printing parts for my car, to avoid paying the Stealer for 'em!

[@charlescarabott7692]

But it be a plastic car right?

[@OTE_TheMissile]

I'm a CAD tech at a place that makes motorcycle accessories. I have an entire library of hardware models from McMaster-Carr that go into all of my Assemblies. Saves me so much time not having to draw my own hardware and makes my assembly prints look *awesome*. McMaster-Carr is truly the cock-for-dolly for homegamers and small job operations like ours

[@eCitizen1]

If this blows our mind, then wait until you get your hands on a Sintered Metal 3D Printer. Which is even better than printing a wax form for pouring hot metal. No shrinkage.

[@bedlamite42]

5:13 You mean like thingiverse?

[@Sherwin657]

Like thingiverse but something that works properly

[@henryokeeffe5835]

Every single part I've ever found on thingiverse will either not print on my printer properly, does not do what it's supposed to do, or is for decoration purposes.

[@tymekuzarczyk6021]

@@Sherwin657 so you mean grabcad

[@norass411]

Just wait til he finds DEFCAD...

[@dk-bw4gk]

Grabcad, PartSelect, cbliss.com, the manufacturer... damn near anywhere these days.

[@AaronCook83]

Having those models available brings them business too. I (my work) bought a lot of parts simply because I could design around their existing model before getting the part in my hand. With a lot of "affordable" alternatives not being exactly the same, I can already point my finger if it doesn't fit. It was definitely the part, or the welding, maybe the machine shop. Probably not the laser, but more likely the laser than me. Thaaat's it.

[@dean117]

You don't have to set your own repository up. Grabcad exists! It's a community powered library of CAD files for free download. Not quite as nicely searchable by dimension as Crackster Carr.

[@roberthopwood3758]

There's also part community. Loads of parts suppliers. b2b.partcommunity.com/3d-cad-models?cwid=8293

[@MarinusMakesStuff]

Hey AvE, for bushings you can print with PLA. PLA has a low friction coefficient, but lower than ABS plastique. I suggest you try it out some time. Make sure the point of contact is small enough to minimize friction, but large enough to minimize fast wear.

[@joshua7551]

Sir, I would like to introduce you to the thing-i-verse. It's this wonderful universe of shit that you don't need but if you Wade through the shot for long enough, you might find what you're looking for

[@LailaKumaki]

3D printed bushings would be really convenient. Whenever you can't seem to get a fastener into a hole you can print a bushing to put on it.

[@M3t4lstorm]

"You wouldn't download a car" ... hold my beer

[@glennllewellyn7369]

A quick thumb twiddle always helps. Thankyou for reminding me of a by-gone past time. Wife has noticed I’m more happier lately too...the beer has nothing to do with it I swear.

[@TheRandomDave]

Cousin Eddie: "I bet you could use a cool one, eh?" Clark: "Now you're talkin"

[@malloott]

IGUS actually makes filament for bushings based on their bushing plastics and that works stunningly well

[@DHMFSSIHTA]

I rebuilt a punch press at the plant where they make those JerkFace9000 cans, among plenty others with their "the name makes it taste better" labels. The crusty old fart as maintenance floor supervisor/designated forklift sitter practically had a Busch IV drip. The irony will never be lost on me.

[@plc268]

3d printing threads has been fairly accurate for me. Sometimes you'll need to run a bolt through to clean up the threads because 3d printing is basically just layering gobs of plastic on top each other over and over. Also, if not accounted for, parts printed in ABS shrinks as it cools. A common practice to combat the shrinkage is to scale the model being printing in x/y to 101-102%. Print something, check your dimensions, and adjust from there.

[@Finchers62]

Don't try and export the part as an STL, it takes forever. Right click on the part in the browser tree and hit "Save as STL". It is much much faster as it is not faffing with the servers.

[@nicholashacking381]

Thanks, I didn't know that. Mind you, I don't understand CAD; I don't have a 3-D printer; we don't have McMaster-Carr in the UK. But it's always good to learn.

[@johnhanes5021]

They always give it away for free until they get you hooked.

[@MrTurboturbine]

McMaster's terms of service already forbids 3d printing their CAD modles...

[@big_red_joe]

Finally a use for the McMasturbate website from down under, thank you sir

[@poopandfartjokes]

Catalogs used to impress me with double D models. Now they’ve upgraded to 3D models. The mind boggles.

[@CurtPottorff]

Another tip about 3d printed parts: Don't print threads. You are better off adding extra 100% fill material to the OD/ID of the thread, and running a tap through it. Bonus points for an even better part is to use Heat-Set inserts so you have metal to metal contact for the threads! Just make the part with a hole just a bit smaller than the threaded insert!

[@peterparsons7141]

My life is nearing total fulfillment,, every thing that we saw on start trek(the real one with Kirk) has now come to be,,, from trio riders, to replicators,, multilingual speech translators.. and so on... where to from here captain!

[@GeoFry3]

Yup, most useful thing I learned in Mech Engineering school as an old dude. Saved a bundle on 80/20 brackets

[@mrdumbfellow927]

"Do a little bit of the gypsy switch" ......aaaaannnddddd. demonetized! :)

[@laytongoad275]

Good lord your channel is bright sunshine in these dark days. Making cool shit and putting on the internets has never been so important to keep us blue collar types sane for another day godspeed ave keep em coming.

[@hobbes409]

If you go to File->3D Print and then select the component or body that you want to convert, it tells you how many triangles in the mesh and lets you select low, medium or high with additional controls over refinement. You can also send directly to your 3D print utility of choice. There's also no wait for cloud conversion.

[@LanceThumping]

There are some models out there for 3D printed bearings that take into account the tendency of hot plastic to stick together and leave enough space between the rolling elements and the casing. They are rather sloppy but they work.

[@AlexKall]

Several big manufacturers do that, some you need an account to access it, others don't. The models are also simplified, although in this case they are already very simple in design but more complex parts are "shrink wrapped" and all inside features go away so it makes it hard to replicate them. They do also often make simplified features which will not matter for the engineer using the part in their machine but will make it harder to just manufacture and copy the part. Forgot the name of one of the largest sites for this with many big manufacturers but I'll see if I can try to remember it.

[@Jack-ny7kn]

I'm pretty sure McMaster Carr fully intended for people to do this since their step files are actually integrated with fusion. You also don't have to run a tap through 3d printed threads. Simply offset the faces by .002 each, or maybe by .004 if you're only printing one of the parts and the other threaded part is something machined. If you're printing both inside and outside threads, though, each face gets offset by .002, and they fit together so perfectly without any taps or dies.

[@Potatogambit]

3D printing has been great for my restoration of an old xl250. Some of the rubber bushings aren't available. Flexible filament to the rescue.

[@northmanlogging2769]

Reasonable facsimile of the part, is exactly what my first machine shop boss would say when starting a first part inspection RIP Mr. Berg you unforgiving A hole

[@MladenMijatov]

What I do to reform the thread is to start screwing the bolt in slightly and then warm it up a bit. Then screw it all the way through. That way no material is removed and threads become even better as plastic melts around the real stuff. Takes a bit getting use to, but it's great.

[@GnuReligion]

Pretty good trick. You need negative "horizontal expansion" (try -0.1) and/or calibrate your e-steps to print at the right size. Tweaking a 3d printer will consume all your free time though.

[@jacot1083]

Alcohol and ammunition, the original recipe for a bloody Mary.

[@finnice]

That over hanging knife in the later part of your composition is very reminiscent of 1600’s Dutch still life, from the likes of Pieter Claesz. Bravo👏

[@Mkz0r]

yea so a few things, it fused because your tolerances- You can infact lower tolerances in ur slicer so it doesn't fuse, Also same with the thread- If u make any 3d model because of the printernozzle overshoot(backlash) you must always add atleast 0.2mm To your parts- unless youve got one of those new firmwares with backlash compensation, very neat

[@mysliceoflife5420]

I am not sure what happened in this video. I only stayed to listen to his voice and his great euphemisms

[@holton345]

I am a McMasterbater, too. It can be a problem when the Mrs. invites fussbudgets over for tea.

[@orenda3696]

I see a lot of organisation potential here. You could print out custom toolbox / drawer inserts with built in rails for your loose bits. If you could scan your tools for a precise outline and incorporate that into the design, even better. It'd have to be made from the hard stuff for now though. It'll be more durable, but probably not as nice on the bits and tools as the foam. I know that 3D-printable foam already exists ("Digital Foam"), but it might take a while for it to trickle down to consumer level 3D printers. It'll be less durable than 3D printed plastic, but who cares if you can just keep printing replacements?

[@markjones2349]

Even if the files go away unless the geometry is super complex, a quick CAD sketch is usually super easy for things like that. But still this is freaking brilliant. Reason your but didn't fit properly is more than likely because your XYZE steps need calibrated. I calibrated my heavily modified Ender 3 Pro and my parts come out within .003" accuracy.

[@TheREALHelly]

....That damascus knife is gorgeous

[@Alex_Bessinger]

Yet another tip! When you're in Fusion under the design tab, if you click the tab labeled "insert" on the upper right, you'll see an option in the dropdown menu for McMaster Carr. It'll open up a tab right there in Fusion where you can browse the parts and insert them right into your design! I use it all the time for larger assemblies if/when I need to add in fasteners and/or other hardware.

[@Knasty_Droolz]

This makes it so easy to put purchased parts into my Solidworks assemblies. Can model up a vision station with all these parts and bada Bing my boss thinks I'm a fucking genius! Thanks Crackmaster Carl! Seriously though being able to grab these and throw them into models is a life saver

[@OverthePantsClayHJ]

You should play with PETG filament for parts like this. They even make your favorite glass fiber reinforced nylon filament now if you install a hardened steel or Ruby extruder and if your machine can get hot enough.

[@Brian_Boxtruck]

Nah, there's enough of us enginmanures designing McMaster into designs because the easy CAD

[@thatengineeringchannel4611]

I'm pretty sure that they won't remove the 3D models as it helps people integrate the parts that they sell into new designs and printing their parts can be useful for prototyping. However, it's still easier to buy the parts from them if you're manufacturing something so they won't be affected by this.

[@brandonbeebe1481]

I remember as a teenager going to Westec back in 2002 and seeing starch-based 3D prints of turbine blade prototypes, color coded for stresses. They were rough, grainy and would melt in the rain. Still, dad turns to me and says, "Son, there before you is the future. Know it well." At the rate my career is going, the first house I own will be 3D printed...

[@gruntslayer3524]

I learned this trick in my solidworks class last year! I went right home and printed some parts to make prototype of a vice I wanted for my bench. And you’re right the threads don’t seem to work straight from the website when you print them

[@blktalon93]

Love that knife on the bench. Very nice.

[@farmerjim-fat-man-do]

Fusion 360 has a McMaster Carr CAD file import tool. For us folk that use the software for fun and personal projects it sure makes life easier. Nobody got time to be drawing all that detail. I’m sure it helps with sales so I doubt they will be dropping access.

[@alexisentonfire]

pro tip, you can also export as obj, that slices better in the slicers

[@shanehanson6013]

Very nice to know. I doubt they would stop providing the CAD models as most the stuff they carry cannot be reproduced on a 3D printer. Like the bearings, and my most recent purchase of springs. I have bought various grades of felt from them, can't 3D print that. I was looking at pumps a few years back doubt that that would workout to print those. And even what you can print most of it would only be a temporary fix till the part you ordered arrives. A possible other use for 3D printing a part would be to make certain its the part you need, especially for something that has a more complex design and you need to be sure its an exact fit before ordering 20 of them (yes I have done that more than once).

[@jasonmorrison7120]

mcmaster gets way more business from me because of the CAD models. I could go buy stuff on amazon for cheaper but then i have to wait to receive it, measure it, model it, and then continue my assembly model. If i go to mcmaster and download the model of their expensive components, i get to finish my assembly model before ordering anything.

[@MrGraceo77]

Couple things to help your 3d printing. You can just print directly to a slicer like cura, so you don't have to wait for stl export on fusion. Also, take a look at octoprint. A raspberry pi add on to your printer so you don't have to bother with SD card!... just a thought.

[@fattony1218]

I recall a check box what says "I will not print stuff from the mcmaster catalog" lol

[@andrewedis9907]

It always cracks me up how small American/Canadian beer cans are compared to Britain.

[@jonathanorlando1294]

About 20 years ago I found a small pin that pictured a seagull with those plastic rings around its neck. It also had the words "Part Animal" printed on it. I still have that pin.

[@luckeycat_]

And we don't even have to play a week long game of email tag to get a vacuum packaged part file? SWEET!

[@porkyswelding]

showing off that grade 8 gold stash while people are suffering with chinesium, great job

[@peifferunsx]

Jebao pumps were well recommended in the reef aquarium hobby. I'm curious what your thoughts are. Please do a review!

[@tjuggernaut29]

pro tip, you can export right to an stl from the top ribbon. That way you dont have to save it to the cloud, and this way it's instant.

[@dhawthorne1634]

I don't see them shutting that down. It's not like you'll skip buying the part, the plastic one will only get you by until the real one arrives. People will do it either way, at least having it available brings traffic to their site with the opportunity to make a sale while the person is there. If they remove the feature, people will go to file-sharing sites and maybe find the metal version elsewhere.

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Thought that said free farts... Had an idea a while back about selling celebrity farts in a jar on ebay... I mean would you open the jar and say yep that's a Patrick Stuart fart if ever I smelt one!!! TFS, G :)

[@PoiSonSonic]

There is a Button called MAKE in Tools shelf. It lets you preprocess the thing to fit your printer

[@monstamastarc]

Another tip with fusion 360. At the top of your screen there's an insert button with a drop down where there is an insert McMaster Carr Option. That way you don't have to download and then open with fusion. Also, speed up stl exports by right clicking on the object in your tree and save as stl. It's a million times faster than export.

[@ChrisMassie_RVA]

In some municipalities, public libraries will let you print stuff for just the price of the filament.