A triple calendar chronograph has how many parts?!

Today we're working on Tony's watch, a Montrose triple calendar chronograph from the 1950s with a Valjoux 72c movement inside. It belonged to his father, who used to wear it all the time, but at some point many, many years ago it stopped working. Can we fix it?
Join Stian for a full service and repair of this beautiful old watch, with a few digressions as we go along!
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Tools and resources for watchmaking as a hobby:
bit.ly/43yQRmw Watchmaking books
bit.ly/3N3rlz3 Watchmaker’s loupe
bit.ly/43vOcu4 Watchmaker tweezers
bit.ly/3Nm0lfc Moebius lubricants
bit.ly/43ITWjM Screwdrivers
bit.ly/468B8wq Case opener
bit.ly/468Bfbk Rodico
bit.ly/3J8mX0u Polywatch
bit.ly/42wAZQf Presto tools
bit.ly/3J6UND7 Bergeon tools
bit.ly/3X21iwL Horotec tools
bit.ly/3X2xiAU Chinese made watchmaking tools
bit.ly/3qFqgWk Digital microscope
bit.ly/3CkZt4f Ultrasonic cleaner
bit.ly/3qAAPtX Ultrasonic cleaning solution
bit.ly/43V9HEr Denture cleaning tablet
bit.ly/3X1rpUl Chinese “Horia style” jeweling tool
bit.ly/3P5EQR7 Demagnetizer
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[@sylvesterfigi]

Stian, I've commented on other video's in the past on how I am truly in awe of your dedication to the craft of watch restoration and repair. I wouldn't be the first to mention how you skillfully manipulate the intricate workings of a chronograph. It was pure coincidence that a came across your channel several months ago and was instantly convinced that you'd be the person I could entrust my dad's watch restoration with. I had tried for the longest time to find someone locally to do this, but to no avail. So I very much appreciate your willingness to take this on and, after having seen the "before and after" ... very grateful for your work ethic and skills. It will be a proud moment (and emotional one...) once I put my dad's watch on my wrist and hear the "heart" beat again. Not having children of my own, I will be passing this along eventually to my nephew who I know will appreciate this legacy from his grandfather. I will be sure to share the link to the video with him, so that he can understand and know what it took to get it into a condition which will eventually allow him to proudly wear it. Stian, thank you again ...with much respect and admiration - Tony.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks Tony, that's very nice to hear:) I hope the watch will serve your and in due time your nephew as well as it served your father 😊

[@johncollier608]

And the rest of Stian's subscribers appreciate you letting the episode be made. Thank you.

[@valdachef]

Well ware

[@neilbrucker5985]

I'm not crying you're crying.

[@joseajavier]

⁰⁰😊 52:43

[@christopherfinch163]

I'm the customer in Atlanta. Thanks to Rick Hoover's tireless work on my dad's watch and your video it will run again. Thanks so much for this video.

[@macgibbon]

I'm a little confused as to what the blued hand displays, is it the date?

[@macgibbon]

@Glenn Watson That's why I was finding it confusing - only thing I could see it pointed to was the seconds markers but that didn't help at all. Cheers.

[@mrmagoo.3678]

@Glenn Watson 04:44 the markers are there just veeerrry faintly.. you can make a 6 out just to the right of the 2'nd hour marker

[@R.Daneel]

@@mrmagoo.3678 They are faint! The "27 28 29" by his thumb near hour 11 is a bit easier to see than the 6. Nothing to be done, of course. I can't imagine any attempt to fix the issue would end in anything but disaster.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

That is a magnificent timepiece. It is fantastic to see the process of its return to function. I own a LeCoultre with Valjoux 72, so was especially interested in seeing this enhanced function 72C. Magnificent!

[@thisoldwatch9944]

Your videos could be 2hrs long I’d still watch them all the way through… nice work!!

[@hbsdfort9556]

Very complicated mechanism.But you did it with very skillfully.Thank you for this video.

[@jimgoodman1845]

You made bending the balance spring so easy. Thanx4sharing.

[@rickhoover6479]

Stian ... Thank you so much for this video. I have been working on a late 40's/early 50's Wyler with a 72c for a customer ... he in Atlanta, GA and myself in Bedford, PA and we simultaneously watched your video. It was a real bonus to have him see the process and ask questions while viewing your service of this gorgeous watch. The Valjoux 72c is such a complex, yet well designed movement that has held up well over the past 70 years. We thank you for your channel and the work you do for the community of vintage watch lovers. EDIT: Thanks for the 'fix' on the center chrono wheel replacement. We hadn't been able to sort the issue of the premature minute count upon activation. Now there's a solution'

[@ronmartin3755]

As a 78 year old retired Master Watch Maker, I really love watching you work on watches. I see the tools of the trade have come a long way since I started my career in 1966. I was just 21 years old then. Can you actually make parts? I used to make balance and or pivot stems when I had a watch that I couldn't find the replacement part for. I never made any wheels or screws or annthinng other than pivot stems for different watches but always told myself I would try one day. I never did! I still have my old tools. I have an old Watchcraft lathe and a staking kit along with oilers, tweezers and other tools. None of my three sons want any of this stuff so I am giving it all to a watch school close to where I live. I think you do fabulous work and your English Accent is very nice to my ears. I have subscribed and will give a bit of money to your Patreon account. I just found you on KZbin a week ago and really enjoy watching your videos. please keep up the good work and your channel.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Ron, thanks so much for your comment, that's very nice to hear :) I'm also sorry to hear none of your sons are picking up the trade, that's a real shame. Yes, I do make parts also, I'm right now busy making parts for a Breguet chronograph to make it a flyback 😊 That's a challenge for sure but it's also a lot to fun and rewarding as I'm sure you know very well. I hope to one day be able to call myself a master watchmaker but that's still a few years away.

[@adrianbirkett594]

Ah that's just class!, you know your way around a chronograph for sure. Beautiful watch, well done Stian.

[@marionchase-kleeves8311]

Salvador Dahli and V Van Gough images come to mind. What a work of art! The brushes may be harder but same effect... Breathless!

[@mrmagoo.3678]

Beautiful old watch.. that movement is gorgeous

[@popecosh307]

I’m blown away at your skill and depth of knowledge….hats off

[@quinninstrumets8259]

“Big ass spring”, now you’re talking my language. Nice trick to make sure I’m paying attention! Thanks for another interesting complete overhaul video

[@VintageWatchServices]

😁👍

[@ysceifiog]

One of the best vids on this topic..excellent narrative and camera work.

[@ralphferrara5152]

I enjoy watching your videos. Very interesting and informative. I like the way you explain everything. 👍

[@mattylad388]

Thank you so much. I haven't fixed a watch...or even owned one. Haha! You're channel is so relaxing and informative and has eased my anxiety immeasurably. Thanks again.

[@samnova450]

Nice chronograph well done.😊

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thank you 😁

[@boydsargeant7496]

Surely is a beauty Stian! I’ve missed your videos, great to see you again. Your voice sounds a bit cold, I should know, I have a cold!

[@pipodorologio1648]

it's a joy every time to watch your expertise in the videos....learning a lot form these, thanks for sharing.

[@alanpreston3111]

Watch compost 🤔🤔🤔.. an interesting concept 🤔🤔. Great work again Stian👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🙏🏻

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks! 😁 👍

[@coetroy]

Stunning watch and thank you for being so informative about everything you're doing during the service. Great job all around.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thank you kindly!

[@user-wh6qb1jb1d]

Takk, Stian! Bra jobb med både klokke og video! Tusen takk!

[@VintageWatchServices]

😊👍

[@Pacsuper7]

Stian, the surgery on the spring, Im in awe of your skills! Thanks for sharing!

[@Valleedbrume]

Beautiful time piece.Great restoration.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thank you very much!

[@randyattwood]

Extraordinary. I'm not a watch person but I watched (!) all of this.

[@rbmwiv]

Wow awesome job of a very complicated movement.

[@denvernow7294]

Wow, Stian. You really worked extra hard for my Like this time. Good job man. I'm speechless at how many parts this had.

[@valdachef]

You're the only watchmaker that puts back in to the plate, clever, thank you.

[@eshwarrao7358]

Beautiful art work Stian! - Thanks for all the effort put in to explain how it works.. what a pretty watch it is... I think if i borrow the tweezers from you - you will pretty much be handicapped and not be able to fix any watches - lol - teasing. Tweezers happens to be your main tool as i see, next to little screwdivers.. very educactional - keep it up. thanks

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks! And stay away from my tweezers! 😂

[@bumboclat]

Wow. I watch a ton of these videos but this was something else. I have big respect for anyone who is able to work through this absolute maze of screws and levers. Stunning watch, what a shame that the date indicators are completely gone.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

They are exceptionally faded, but in some positions and light, a few of the numbers are just visible. I do agree though, if they were slightly more visible, it would be nice. Perhaps in another 50 years, in the next major service, new methods that do not yet exist can properly refinish the face.

[@pablofierros3312]

Awesome work on this chronograph. Thanks so much.

[@francispalmer9737]

Always a pleasure to watch and listen to you working on these watches. Thank you.

[@TheGreatTimSheridan]

wow tour de force. Really awesome watch. and rescue.

[@tiberiuvincze8288]

Hello, lucky owner and lucky service man of this watch, nice work , you changed your microphone? and =open hart surgery in moving truck jumping from a plane without a parachute= that is genial! always a pleasure to see you video!

[@wspaulding89]

Really glad I found your channel. I watch all kinds of repair channels, tools and appliances ect, so your work adds a new dimension with which to hyperfixate on. Thank you and cant wait for that VWS-2186 to arrive very excited.

[@VintageWatchServices]

😊👍

[@LambentOrt]

What a stunning watch 😍

[@tommern84]

This was a gorgeous watch. Absolutely lovely ♥️ fantastic work !

[@TheClockwise770]

It' still is

[@-triumphgt667]

Got half way through when you put it up first and thought I had fallen asleep! Missed the end!! LOL

[@gregcapella5941]

Great video,,,THANKS

[@dentalcare1]

Stunning watch.

[@Markusx26]

That is much more complicated than a Rolex. You have amazing skills and a good memory with that many parts and the order to put it back together.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thank you very much!

[@johnsrabe]

1. So cool Chris and Rick can collaborate with our hero in Switzerland! 2. Stian, I know it’s more of a pain for you, but a watch like this with a lot of problems makes a much better video! (My preference, anyway.) So thanks! 3. Pity all the day numbers disintegrated! But yes a lovely dial as is. 4. Amazon sells German nose hair snoods: Geholdendenoztrilhairbackensnoodenplatz.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks so much, Angelino! And do you have the link for the Geholdendenoztrilhairbackensnoodenplatz? I googled it but couldn't find one 😂

[@johnsrabe]

@@VintageWatchServices Looks like they’re on back herr order.

[@VintageWatchServices]

@@johnsrabe 😁👍

[@JochenVogel]

I can't believe I just watched more than an hour of someone fumbling about with tiny parts, that have the tendency to launch themselves into irretrievable orbits, and find this relaxing. That's probably because I know that it's only a video and I don't have to fix a chronograph by myself. I admire Your steady hands, Stian.

[@VintageWatchServices]

😂👍 Thanks, Jochen!

[@Gary-Seven-and-Isis-in-1968]

Fantastic job, well done.

[@DoktorChudilo]

11:37 my heart stopped for one second

[@VintageWatchServices]

😂👍 I assume it started again or are you writing this comment from the hospital bed? :)

[@followthetrawler]

Beautiful watch, hopefully it runs another 80 years

[@davidlondon5241]

Great comments and I wish my hands were that steady

[@alvinpillay9995]

Good cup of tea to go with another great video. Love a watch with lots of complications. Waiting for the next one.

[@maangamandai]

''Open heart surgery in a moving truck while jumping out of a plane without a parachute'' LOL! Stian this sentence is so original that you should patent it.

[@deancase8951]

Wow the disk wheels in my mind had to watch the complications install a couple of times to understand the layout and operation. Crazy, great job and a beautiful watch.

[@andyoverall1951]

What a cool watch, and very complicated. You made the servicing look easy! Nice work.

[@Aco747lyte]

Stein, thank you so much for this video restoration of this astonishingly beautiful, (if indeed complicated) timepiece which Billie, my very talented teenage watchmaker daughter, is utterly fascinated with. We are so glad and grateful for finding your channel. Wishing you all the best, Wendi in the UK. 🌻

[@VintageWatchServices]

That's great to hear, Wendy :) All my best to you and Billie! Stian

[@HayesTech]

There are a lot of us that don't mind long videos. Especially when they are informative, such as this. It's the editing that gets old though...lol... I've had to edit a couple of mine that's went long and it isn't much fun.

[@jatco84]

Fascinating..simply fascinating.. Another great restoration Stian.. Love your commentary as you go along. And the fine tuning to get things right. Amazing work.. Thanks for the trip..!

[@marionchase-kleeves8311]

Better than most video programs. A calming affect

[@BraddBSmith]

Bravo! Excellent as usual, masterful!

[@benfoust7424]

Another great video with a gorgeous watch! Thank you for sharing!!

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching, Ben!

[@keithgarland3404]

Really enjoyable in depth service and repair of my favourite wrist watch movement, my other favourite on my wishlist would be a minute repeater pocket watch.

[@alanmckinnon6791]

Great video Stian, thanks for uploading. I'm totally with you on not touching dials; the watch is 70 years old and looks it. If the dial and hands were bright and shiny it would look simply wrong. And old watch is an old watch, if a buyer wants a watch that is immaculate and in the style of an old watch, plenty brands make watches like that. Great explanation on this one, I had wondered for ages why the hour counter on old chronos crept along and didn't jump, now I know!

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks so much, Alan! The dial looks awesome in my view, but I was really struggling with whether I should refinish the case or not. In the end and after discussing with Tony we decided to leave it as is, and I still think it's a beautiful watch :)

[@valdachef]

Amazing work

[@walther9161]

Amazing stuff and gorgeous watch. Enjoyed the info and narrative very much.

[@gromit1996]

I'm a bit of a chronograph junkie, so these are always great videos. I appreciate your comments on watchmaking as a hobby. I was trying to get into it again this summer, but that didn't work out so well, but maybe this winter I will "hulk-out" on working on some vintage Soviet watches I own. The most expensive part of that process is the lubrication oils and grease. There are all levels of tools, but you sort of have to have the correct oils to lubricate pivots and friction parts. Thanks for your work on this one and salvaging it for a happy customer.

[@MrLukealbanese]

Wow, that was hard work. Well done Stian!!

[@gori277]

Such a cool watch with plenty of history. Also loved watching how you went about solving the many issues it had, probably beyond repair for many. Good stuff!

[@joetrouble]

What a beautiful watch there,always impressed with your videos and work ! So many small pieces in that watch, and thanks for pointing out the issues as I hadn’t a clue as to what was wrong .

[@Strapplekiwi]

the cronographs takes the watchmaking to a hole other level in knowing what to do to fix the watch 🎉 ur making it so nice and the video is realy great 👍👍 good stuff 😊

[@clivesouthafrica2086]

Really splendid video. Engrossing and instructive. Great commentary. The watch looks great on the wrist.

[@davidhendricksgolfprofessi2321]

That folks is watchmaking on another level. Others here on teh tube are great at what they do but this is, as I said before, on another level. Well Done.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks a lot, David 😊

[@steveblackbird]

Wow!! that is one complex watch. Absolutely beautiful too!! My guess is the 72c was the precursor to the 7751. Wonderful watching this video and I really appreciate to taking the time to video all of it even though I'm sure it would prolong the actual service time by 10! Great that you included the fixes too. That hairspring really bundled up when you puffed on it I thought it was a goner! Another fantastic vid Stian!! Thank you!

[@endy_fx]

Thanks for getting Avril stuck in my head.

[@valdachef]

Amazing episode, I'm in love with this 72C, thank you.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

I have a LeCoultre Shark built with the Valjoux 72. It omits the day-date-moon function. I always wondered how they added these extra functions to the caliber. Amazing to see! Beautiful craft to execute a repair and fine-tune on such a complex and interesting time piece. Well done!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@petepure3387]

You get a "Like" just for the effort... Well done Sir. :)

[@davidcrandall4958]

The Breitling Navitimer Cosmanaute I owned in 1967 had 250 parts!

[@daves6259]

Your Right a Beautiful Watch ,Fantastic Work Sir ,Happy New year to you and your,

[@GS-nx2iq]

Taking experience and skill down into the minutia of mechanics, and handling (and respecting) cosmetics going in and then back out at this level is amazing. You are a true craftsman sir. What an enjoyable share. Thank you.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching!

[@griffn14]

Awesome work!! 👍👍👍

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thank you! 👍

[@neilbrucker5985]

Absolutely love your stuff sir. Keep it coming. Im Hoping to see a 1960s pre-daytona chronograph of one of these channels one day. It is one of the prettiest daila I have ever seen but this kind of reminds me of it in a way. Also please never stop smoking videos for the sake of out sanity please.

[@VintageWatchServices]

😊

[@Rotary_Phone]

I'd like to see you take apart, and put together a super complicated watch like the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime. You'd could probably even turn it into a multi-part series of videos...Like maybe 2 or 3 parts. That would be awesome.

[@VintageWatchServices]

That would be awesome indeed, but there aren't that many of those around 😁 I do have a couple of interesting complications coming up, so stay tuned!

[@martinlouden9005]

That's a very beautiful watch Stian. I have a Heuer with the valjoux 724 movement that I managed to buy very cheap (less than £30.00) I bought a new crystal and a hammer from a seller in Portugal and they cost me almost £100.00. I now need a pillar wheel and a minute recording jumper and, most importantly, the courage to service it. So this video is very useful to me and as always, very entertaining.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Wow, that could be a bargain, although with a low of effort finding parts 👍

[@marionchase-kleeves8311]

Machinery, beauty! Art! TIME

[@bullnose01]

Another really fascinating video, Stian. As for your hobby advice, I am exceedingly pleased to inform you that I successfully disassembled and re-assembled a manual Vostok this week. Only two pings, both screws that I was able to find, although I had almost given up on recovering the screw for the second pinion spring. That sucker is small. Unfortunately, I discovered I don't have the fine motor control to do a proper job of lubricating, expecially the shock fittings. Nevertheless, it was very gratifying. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@VintageWatchServices]

That is very, very cool to hear, Bullnose :) The fine motor control is to a degree learnable, and you can aid your hand by supporting it on the bench, by supporting your fingers with the other hand etc. Good luck with it!

[@MrBaxtrax]

For those just getting into this as a hobby another beginner friendly movement is ST36 "ETA 6497/6498 clones" from China. You can pick one up for next to nothing & it's pretty large and robust as well. My 1st teardown was a seagull ST36 it's an OK movement for 29.99, & although I won't make any claims regarding it's longevity and overall quality. but It's a good beginner movement that won't leave you sweating if you mess something up or a spring goes flying.

[@matthewmctaff2022]

Outstanding video, simply outstanding. The best watchmaker I’ve seen so far. The most informative and best instruction of all the watch restoration channels I have watched in the last year. The close-up of the pallet fork jewel particularly impressive. Looks like a binge watch ahead for the rest of your videos. Many thanks for sharing your skills.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Wow, thanks! Welcome to the channel :)

[@ygrbooks]

Thank you Stian for another wonderful video on a beautiful and complex watch. It does seem extremely complicated and as a result rather fragile. Were it not for the sentimental value, a lot of people would probably shy away from having it serviced because of the costs involved, particularly here in Switzerland. Thank you also for the good advice on what watches to start with as a beginner. Most experts tell you to start with pocket watches because they are bigger. As you rightly point out, getting spare parts or donor movements for those can be extremely difficult.

[@VintageWatchServices]

👍

[@steveb5349]

Great work! I learn so much from watching you work.

[@alaindrolet_atlt_2019]

Absolutely fascinating to see you work on Chronograph and of course this calendar too ! I never work on that kind of complicated movement, so you have all my respect Stian ! Absolutely good job ! So happy to follow you on this channel !! ✨👌

[@franka9760]

Very complicated in its complications. And SO many parts! Impressive work, including the little adjustments made along the way. I wish I had your steady hands. I watched a video of Roger W Smith and his workshop on the Isle of Man. He said he makes everything except for crystals, jewels, mainsprings, and hairsprings. Just amazing. I'm using the Seagull watch and will let you know about its accuracy.

[@WristwatchMedic1953]

A great video on a beautiful watch. Very impressive trouble shooting. Thanks for the video.

[@georgegherghinescu]

Hello Stiam, I would like to add another option to start out with, small alarm clocks (you already mentioned pocket watches), for me the large parts where easier to handle when my dexterity was still just developing. Also it kept me motivated and having fun to see I am making progress and not struggling, taking on a complex watch when not yet ready can end up in long hours of frustration or worse in giving up.. like master yoda puts it very well: Unfortunate that you rush to face it, that incomplete was your training, that not ready for the burden where you :)

[@LucasGeniar]

As per usual very nice video. Love watching these.

[@fattern_]

Hei Stian. Takk for flott video. Har selv begynt å skru litt, men mest på lommeur som er min store lidenskap.

[@ysceifiog]

Can't stop thinking of scenes from the great Norwegian comedy Norsemen....

[@VintageWatchServices]

😁👍

[@brucebarlow6604]

Great work as always Stian. That big arse spring will be helpful getting the Swiss space program off the ground. No trouble in paradise double win. Take care and keep well from New Zealand 🇳🇿.

[@VintageWatchServices]

😁👍

[@unixnerd23]

Impressive!

[@billquillin1952]

Excellent!

[@coopoylozenge5964]

Fascinating.

[@catherinewhite2943]

It was quite the battle to get that one to co-operate!

[@deancollins8229]

Another great video !

[@garetkonigsfeld2]

Man if I had a watch with insides like the I would always have the back off just staring at it. Waht a pice of art. Thanks for sharing 👍.

[@mnpd3]

The watchmaker I used for many years is now retired. He'd work on any watch including old Electrics and Accutrons, but for reasons he never clarified he wouldn't as much as open the back of a mechanical chronograph.

[@amparocarvajal7759]

Lol this guy should start a political career, hiding problems with the gmt hand and saying the Chrono is fine Even tho the Upper sidr is slower

[@VintageWatchServices]

That's funny indeed, perhaps he just preferred electric watches?

[@VintageWatchServices]

There's no GMT hand in this movement and I'm not sure what you mean by the upper side being slower?

[@amparocarvajal7759]

@@VintageWatchServices i meant the black hand and i don't know if it si cuz of the edit but in the testing around 12 the hand were slower

[@VintageWatchServices]

@@amparocarvajal7759 The blued hand shows the date, buddy... And I still don't understand what you mean with your other comment 😆 Maybe make sure you know what you're talking about before talking 😉

[@spikefcast1892]

Always amazing work and video 👍👍👍👍

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks, Spike!

[@spikefcast1892]

Iam struggling with my wife for your Pie Pan VWS-1677…. She is tough 😤😤😤😢