A very small, but important job!

In this video I attend to a small but important job in an apartment somewhere in Essex!
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[@samrix5793]

Reminds me of DIY in the 80s melamine, plastic blocks and magnet catches

[@Rob.Coleman]

Happy memories watching my Dad do exactly this 🙂.

[@FreqyBiker]

Great idea with the magnets, but who's the winklespanner who thought running a water pipe between two mains socket/switches was a good idea? Rrrrrridiculous

[@marissakeynes2532]

Maybe that was his only option.

[@K.F.L]

​@marissakeynes2532 Its not the only option

[@ironpirate8]

Maybe you could silicone a small quadrant trim onto the tiles each side, so that the boxing could tuck in behind them and still attach to the magnets in order to be removable?

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

I would box in all the pipes as one, and relocate those switches and receptacles to the outside of that box...

[@WarrensRandomAndWeirdVideos]

Sometimes that’s not possiblr

[@jdt1459sja]

More work and more money if jou want it to be perfect !!😊

[@WarrensRandomAndWeirdVideos]

@@jdt1459sja with the time he had he did the best he could tbf

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

@@jdt1459sja I strongly dislike the idea of half-assing anything. I'd much prefer to whole-ass it.

[@matsuz100]

Poor job, better off painting the pipes than that bodge.

[@Peter_Vidgeon]

I had exactly the same job to do many years ago. I made an 'L' shaped melamine cover, just like you did, but stuck matching tiles to the kitchen walls onto it, blending the joints to the tiles on the walls. The unit became quite heavy and did not need any fixings at all. It has stayed put for over twenty years, but can be slid out of the way if needed.

[@NAFO_Badger_Brigade]

Yeah - this is the best option

[@MrAmps]

What I like about the most is simply that there is no such thing as a quick job. Everything in that video from start to finish rings true for me. Cheers.

[@jeremywhilde]

Would have added a double socket to the boxing in to bring it out to the surface and a short fly lead with a 13 amp plug to plug in to the original socket behind, then use a plastic back box with longer screws from the front double socket to the back box or use a metal back box. To prevent chip-out on the melamine use masking tape and cut through the melamine with a Stanley knife along your finished cut line, then cut a couple of mm away from the finished cut line and sand or plane down to the line.

[@AidanWilliamson]

I was wondering if you could do this under code, effectively just a mini extension cable.

[@gracebateman777]

Please make a video of your melamine magic skills to teach us all great master 🙏 🙌

[@user-co4xt7bi7p]

Given the positioning of everything you were in a no win situation. As a personal alternative I think I would have boxed in the pipes to the left and put a piece of that white plastic pipe wrap on the lone water pipe so you could have left access to the sockets. Maybe that wouuld not be acceptable to the owner though. For other jobs I like the idea of the hot glue simply as a way to locate the join bits prior to screwing them into wood or something. Great channel, with good tips and techniques. Thanks

[@HeavyMechY]

Im so glad, To see a video with the difficulties of these jobs. Great job.

[@rickyard11]

Should have used a melamine jigsaw blade (ultra fine and cuts on the down motion)

[@cedarstuff]

Thanks, didn't know those existed.

[@neilcolbert]

Starrett do blades which cut down at the top and up at the bottom so pretty good finish both sides of the material. Sorry I can't remember the name of them but I've found them really useful 👍

[@alexkane5608]

The job looks good as it is. I think I would use some white plastic trim over the ends because, if you then add the silicone bead, pulling the cover off to gain access to the socket will not be possible.

[@retiree1033]

I think I would have put all those electricals, including the fused switches on fly leads using Wego's or something similar and cut holes for new back boxes in the melamine.

[@billferrol4202]

To stop the break out with the jigsaw use it upside down - that reverses the tear out side. It takes a bit of practise to get it right. Or you could buy a blade that cuts on the down stroke. Also liquid paper (tippex) over the tear out somewhat blends in with the melamine.

[@P.Roach85]

Nice job buddy. Thanks for the upload. Sometimes a small job can be more troublesome than a large one & it's most probably made a huge difference to someone!

[@adroniga]

Hello mate! Just a quick pro tip that I've got from my father in law who's been a carpenter for 25+ years and installed many kitchen appliances: when cutting melamine if you don't want it to chip like that just put some paper tape over the line you're supposed to be cutting and then remove it once you're done. The difference is amazing, I've tried it myself a couple of times now. Cheers, Adrian!

[@caskwith]

I've seen several videos of people testing this and if anything putting tape on the line made the cut worse as it pulls off any weak bits..

[@worrun1505]

I always use masking tape when cutting similar materials, correct

[@BALLOOROOM]

I'd add when used with the correct blade, masking tape is good but it can't work miracles.

[@alpachino468]

Yeah, we all know this, but just remember he was working away from home, so it's likely he didn't bring any tape with him...

[@adroniga]

​@@caskwith I've tried it myself at least 3 times both with a jigsaw and a circular saw and it worked wonders!

[@843thebear]

It's the type of job which a customer would assume takes only an hour to do, but in reality might take the bast part of the day.

[@stephenjames6534]

Great video Stuart, I recently did the same for a friend with a black quartz worktop with mirror flecks like your one. I brought a small piece of shower panel in gloss black with mirror flecks and virtually did what you did, I used a tile trim in chrome for the edges. It honestly looked like part of the worktop and cheap to make. Keep up the great videos.

[@TR-rz1xt]

Shower panel (or end bath panel) was my thought, no reason (other than time/access now) that it can't still be done using the white melamine as a base - just clad it with trim as you suggest will hide rough edges.

[@marks-0-0]

A well thought through and perfect job well done. The only thing I'd add to it is to make up a small socket extension with a surface mount back box and glue it just outside the cover above those fused switches.

[@RB-xg2vz]

That boiler install is shocking….cant believe the owner signed that off….

[@johannes.f.r.]

What's wrong with that? Seems quite tidy. All straoght pipes down. The last one couldn't go on the left, it would obscure the socket or come out further from the wall. This is the sort of stuff that happens when you put a boiler in a place it wasn't designed to go.

[@moo7137]

Believe me, this is a neat installation by British standards.

[@mattylindsayblackburn1877]

What would you of done differently?

[@jbaidley]

Welcome to rental houses in the UK! The only thing the average landlord cares about is "How cheap can you do it?".

[@smoggydrones5664]

@@moo7137I know gas needs special care and cannot be touched by a DIYer but surely the cabinet was butchered and the pipes should not have been left like that. If had to box the pipes in he would have done a better job with the pipes

[@stephenjlangford2451]

Could you fit a socket front to your boxing & simply connect to the socket behind via a flex and 13amp plug, obviously checking building & electrical regs. Nice job though, the simple ones are the best👍👍

[@XL-5117]

I can watch you all day working. My dad used these magnetic catches as well when he worked. That took me back a bit. He always thought out of the box when thinking of solutions for situations like you!

[@ArchEdge]

Love difficult small projects. Great video Stuart. Heres one you’ll love… you can buy jigsaw blades that cut on the downstroke, for jobs that need the good side facing up! 😊

[@ian_morg]

Nice job! I used the same method when I boxed in our gas meter in our hallway. I battoned around the meter then clad it in pallet wood and used the same catches for the front so it looks like a solid box but you can lift it off in an emergency or when the plumber comes to service the boiler.

[@chandrasekhargrenze9211]

That's what I needed, for have to do exactly this job to do in the kitchen to come of my son's new home. And You confirmed my idea to use magnets. I'm happy to see You doing it and working it out, so it is less complicated for me and a real help! Thank You very much! Greetings from Germany^^

[@ianrobson5563]

I had an almost identical situation a few years back to pipes that were there before we moved in. I have just left it free standing, the only difference being I was able to source a piece of MDF almost identical to the wall units. With some kitchen items in front of it, it is not obvious at all. Great work, love watching your videos.

[@philtebble4390]

Great job Stuart 👏

[@johnryder8464]

Its the small jobs that I struggle with so many thanks for the advice!

[@Gman4633]

I have a similar job to do at home and this has given me something to consider - very easy access for maintenance 👍🏽

[@TheOldBlackCrow]

I was thinking to extend the outlet out with a diy extension cord so it's accessible without having to move the box all the time... 🤷‍♂️

[@sdelbari]

That has given me idea on how to box the ugly pipes in my bathroom, thanks 🙏

[@oompje]

I used magnets to hold the footboard of my kitchen cupboards. Instead of silicone, I used a white silicon-like U-shaped strip with a lip, that resembles silicone on the edge of the boards. It connects to the wall perfectly closing the gap without sticking to any surface. I would have placed two wallplugs into the board and connected them with a cable and plugs to the existing wallplugs. No big job and easy to remove or put back the board. Nice video!

[@ukexbreakdownman]

well done solved a difficult problem had the same problem myself where new boiler was fitted

[@artursmihelsons415]

Great job! Looks 100% better than naked pipes. 👍 Love mounting idea with furniture magnets.. In place of silicon, I, probably, just file edges a little bit, to get away from bigger grooves, making it smoother and paint these edges white.. 😂

[@harisfrq]

I loved how this covered all the little niggles of a install seeming to be so simple but to do a clean and proper job it takes attention to detail which is well highlighted in this video

[@mr.b.4048]

Whenever I am doing a job away from home as a DIYer, I have a list in my garage for a To Go box for additional tools not in my toolbox (clamps, gaffer tape + +) and a To Go compartment box for those little extras (wall plugs, PTFE tape + +]. Works for me as I then have everything that I can think about needing for the job.

[@Chimp_No_1]

Very helpful ! Thanks !

[@user-iw3qt2cx2m]

To get a better matching colour you can use the thin vinyl click floor tiles glued over a cheaper box built from plywood/osb, maybe need a piece of trim for exposed corners. Tiles are easier to cut, and cover any area. Used this technique to box in pipes in kitchen and to build a custom fit bath panel.

[@samuelbeckett4632]

When cutting melamine & a crisp clean edge is absolutely imperative, I usually change out the blade (circular or jig) for a new one with a higher tooth count. Run a line of tape over the intended cut line to help prevent a chipped edge, or use a 'sharp' stanley blade to score through the melamine coating on the forward facing cut lines, then cut a fraction shy of the line. Perform a test cut to establish characteristics of the saw if you're not sure. As mentioned, the underside 'up-cut' will always give the cleanest cut, so plan accordingly. TBH, if the pre-scribe/cut gap isn't too big, I'd just run the silicone fillet & hide the gap; one less cut & it won't prevent panel removal when needed.

[@andyc972]

Welcome back to Essex Stuart, I know precisely where that is, we used to dirt track through the woods around there as kids in the 70s ! What a bodge job that installation was, particularly placing the water pipe between the two electrical fittings, no excuse for that. Of course this wasn't up to your usual standards Stuart, but nonetheless an interesting thing to show and you worked a solution on the fly with little time or equipment so what can realistically be expected. I think I know the sale you are referring to, I also bought the Workmate from there as a gift for my Daughter who is just starting on her DIY journey so have also directed her to your excellent Channel .

[@chocothemagnificent1019]

A clever fitting of materials :)

[@marcusregan4815]

Like the saw track that you made up.

[@jayc1140]

Loved that video mate

[@strummer6642]

If you're a landlord you want this kind of job doing cheaply as well as quickly so ideal for a handyman. The guy's clearly not a plumber, but moving the cold feed across is relatively simple especially as it rises through the vent, just need to bend/shape the pipe in the cupboard. The double socket can be moved to the right of the fused switches and tap into the same supply. Triple boxes are available so no mess.

[@cbs1710]

Not sure if this would work, but: Maybe you could put a transparent packing tape where the silicone bead would touch the tile on both sides; apply the white silicone, mould it, and wait for it to dry fully; then cut the tape along the line and carefully remove the cover. Then, remove the remains of the tape from the tiles, and (optionally/possibly from the newly formed silicone edging). Thus, silicon edge would nicely conform to he contours, cover the chip-out on the melamine, and cover would still be removable per need. I am not sure if silicone would adhere to the packing tape, so an alternative tape might be needed (paper masking tape, maybe?) for it to work.

[@Crazy_Dave]

Cracking idea and maybe use cling film as the isolation medium which would be easier to remove.

[@GretatheEvilGremlin]

It doesn`t appear he had that sort of timeframe to let silicone cure, it`s a one strike visit by the looks of things. Could have glued a trim bead to the melamine face to cover any chip out, then it would all be removable as one piece. It may have helped if someone could have sent him some pictures/measurements of the job beforehand. Not much else he could have done here.

[@shaunheafield2147]

I really liked the use of the hot glue. It was a good way to position the magnets and if you wanted to you could fix them permanently afterwards now that you have the perfect position

[@shaun30-3-mg9zs]

Great job

[@jayseabie215]

Some years ago I fixed up a wooden (or at least fake wood) bath panel using exactly the same type of magnets. Still holding up now and easily removable!

[@stephendavies6949]

Hi Stuart. Never underestimate the usefulness of showing us DIYers how to do "small" jobs. The skills/techniques used on 1 job can be used on others.

[@andypyne]

Lots of critics, but I really like the video and the winging-it solution. Imperfect tools and materials to perform an imperfect job that's 'good enough' is often what DIY is about 😂 With more time, money, better tools and materials, no doubt a better solution exists, but you have to work within the parameters you've got. Love it!

[@reg8848]

I tend to buy a decor end panel and use a track saw to cut to size (most providers have at least some old stock). I then use builders Velcro to put it together as often isolation valves are in that area. It can be dismantled easily and reused after.

[@q9home1]

Great video🎉

[@andreashenning7094]

Excellent example of a real world solution to a real world problem, thanks! And what better way to start my breakfast than with a coffee and this video? Cheers from Sweden!

[@spatel3783]

thank you!

[@DMUSA536]

Probably a 1,000 different ways to do this. I always watch so I can see different techniques that could be used in different applications. Also watching the difference between US and British, like your switches are down for on and ours are up. I’m impressed how you convert metric to inches.

[@Neil-Hanson67]

As a handyman myself Stu , if i do work like this i generally wipe the tiles with alcohol just to remove any grease or dirt that can accumulate in these sort of areas seems to give really strong bond. i really like these types of videos you do at your friends apartments too, more please.

[@martincleeves4238]

You can get jigsaw blades that cut on the downward stroke,which is nice!

[@AlanBell]

Good to show a job with compromises and constraints that you would rather were not there in the first place. Boilers now require a massive ventilation hole below them, so that is why the boiler cupboard doesn't have a bottom at all. Pipe placement was horrible, but dictated by the retrofitted boiler. All in all a reasonable bodge was required and implemented.

[@pauldine4072]

The boiler installer did you dirty with that one. Especially that water pipe between the socket and switches. He also removed the entire bottom of the cupboard instead of making a couple of holes. The end result is tidy though - especially once it’s caulked in.

[@retiree1033]

They're not allowed to just cut holes for pipes. There has to be a certain area cut out for ventilation (yeah, I know, balanced flue and all that but regs is regs.

[@royhandley3133]

That's not a ventilation hole, it's a cupboard massacre!@@retiree1033

[@GRUMP5B]

In the past I have used masking tape along the cut line (all side front and back etc) to minimise the blow out. It works to a fashion and is easily masked against the wall to be hidden by caulking.

[@cybersteve1]

I think you did a great job considering all the obstacles in your way! I've seen kitchen and wardrobe fitters cutting their scribes by holding the jigsaw upside down underneath the workpiece. This way the blade cuts down into the wood or melamine, meaning less chip-out. Also they can see the blade and line much more clearly. However its a skill I've never managed to perfect!

[@LemiKillmister.]

Wooohoooo! An upload! 😃👍🏻

[@fireblaster9961]

Pretty slick idea using the magnets.....I personally wouldn’t have but my tools on the worktop without some protection and definitely wouldn’t have started hammering

[@findmeallways4422]

🎉and it's just what I needed to know at this point 😊

[@smoggydrones5664]

I often use 4mm thick plastic sheets you buy from a craft shop. They come in a vast assortment of colours and can be hot glued together and require very little tools to complete job

[@f1acha]

If I don't have the correct saw blade handy, I cut slightly oversize and use a fine file to tidy up the edges. Gives a nice clean edge and a couple of flat / round files take up very little space in the toolbox. Putting masking tape on the board before scribing can also help reduce chipping when you cut. Would love a follow up to hear how the hot glue has held on those tiles over time. Handy as a "semi"-permanent fix and easier to clean off the tiles than cured silicon.

[@SodaBread-ie]

Got to love that right hand pipe where it goes through the ventilator grille, classic. Could have purchased a one piece boiler pipe casing from Pendock ltd. Liked & subscribed

[@davesheffield3620]

Pendock for me as well , far better looking for about £35 👍

[@Amped-JDS]

Time to watch some videos on how you cut a scribe with a jigsaw. Cut from underneath gives a far better cut but you will struggle with the old school jigsaw. A down cut blade will also sort the chipping out.

[@glenndaly3975]

Wife and I just laughed when we saw this as I am in the middle of something quite similar and the use of magnets. Wife thought I was crazy until she saw this. As much as in trying to cover pipes it means the removal of a laundry basket and to compensate, I am trying to create narrow depth shelving which will enclose the pipes but are easily removable to allow the boiler engineer in to service it and to get at the pipes. It will use a quick locking type clasp.

[@tonkatoy200]

You can use a washer for scribing. Works brilliantly

[@emmetworkshop2829]

I hate those "small" fiddly jobs! I use those catches quite a lot when they are out of the way. Just used to secure a rear cabinet panel that might need removing to access pipework in future. I sometimes use rare earth magnets epoxied in when more strength needed - just done the latter to secure a valance/pelmet box around a roller blind so it can be removed as needed. I quite often finish any mucky cuts with a bit of trim rather than caulking, if the panels really need removing.

[@plunder1956]

I like the magnets idea. But perhaps some kind of thinner material, that could be bent into shape, would create a more minimal box out.

[@tomodges]

Seems mad to make something removable to then silicone it in?

[@thebushyone]

To follow a scribe line with a jigsaw when you need the scribe side to be neat with no chips, simply turn the jigsaw upside down and cut from underneath. You use the blade that sticks up through the wood as your guide. If that makes sense?

[@kevinhackett2449]

I think if you painted the pipes a colour to match the tiles it would blend the pipes in it would hide them in my opinion

[@MrJozza65]

You can get trim pieces for the bottom of kitchen cupboard plinths, which have a silicon seal on them. Perhaps try that, and it would seal up to the tiles, hide the tear out on the melamine cut edge, and be removable. I do dislike working with melamine, particularly the white stuff; it's so hard to get a decent finish on the cuts. Nice job considering how awkward the position of the pipes and power sockets and switches were.

[@its_marc]

Good bodgeneering 👍

[@Retrobution]

You could buy some plinth strip that is used for, well, plinths (or kickboards) to hide the rough edges and the way the stips are design is like a water seal edge which could fit snug across the unever surface of the tile, just cut away some of the strip edge that sits on the socket

[@awantamta]

Nice job

[@DocteGaby]

You can get jigsaw blades that cut on the down stroke to keep the edge neater. Or do like bourbon moth and use your jigsaw upside down! 😮 I wonder if some painter's tape on the cut line might have helped a bit too, although melamine is a pig to cut at the best of times anyway. Anyway, that was an interesting and realistic problem to solve. Thanks for the video

[@chevyimp5857]

Real world jobbing full of compromises.. thanks for the video

[@utubeifuwantto]

A couple of tips. Always wear a mask when cutting chipboard/mdf. Get a down-cut jigsaw blade to avoid the ragged edge. I like to the use of magnetic grips, a good video.

[@graemeadamson7272]

Thanks for another good one . A chap once advised me to always take more tools than you actually will need , sound advice because karma is a swine ! I know it's a faff but it IS worth it , also never put your tools away when you think you've finished , there is always a little job that needed doing that you put off 🛠️ Cheers 👊

[@Raymond-Gibb]

Tippex is real handy for touching in white furniture board.

[@DaveGDesigns]

Nice video as always Stuart and a great use of the magnetic catches. This might be a silly question but with the catches making it easy to remove the panel if you want to use the sockets doesn't adding a bead of silicone cancel out the removability of the panel?

[@Marktb363]

Great point! 🙂

[@antomac]

Attach some clingfilm to the wall first (hold it in place with masking tape etc). Then apply your bead of silicone etc., wait for it to cure and then peel away the clingfilm... Hey presto a nice fillet of sealant bonded to the Melamine but not bonded to the tiles! .. The only downside is waiting for the sealant to cure before you can finish the job..

[@harisfrq]

@@antomacthat is genius mate , thank you for that tip

[@stephenmcgeown]

Stuart, a difficult situation to fix in a day and with limited tools and materials available. You probably did pretty much as good a job as you could have in the circumstances. Maybe it will be possible to come up with a more longer term solution, e.g. bringing out the electrical sockets etc to the front of the boxed in area, making it permanently attached to the wall - plus the inspection by an electrician to get it signed off - when a bigger window of time opens up.

[@lisahodges8299]

Looks like a possible Warm Front job, a grant to supply heating and insulation to those living in fuel poverty, the pipes exposed so that maintenance can be carried out easily. This is so that the occupied can be kept warm with the minimum of disruption to the installation and client. I think this grant finished a while ago and is likely to be difficult to get a similar grant. Birdy

[@Reprint001]

Measure and make, then fit. 18mm MRMDF painted black (if that was the owner's preference), button fix type 2's to fix it to the wall and black decorators caulk around it at the tiles and worktop which is far less permanent than silicone. It didn't look like a wet area so no need for silicone.

[@TejpekJxv]

This format is perfect. I am renting a few apartments by myself and would be very happy to see these videos more often to get the inpiration when I will be fixing something by myself.

[@thegreatpretender4197]

Your channel will be a godsend for immigrants and those wanting to save money on èmploying tradesmen Hats of to you.

[@NoodlesR6]

Nice job! I would have fixed the smaller piece to the wall and counter top with white silicon. Then you have the magnets joining the the face to wall and melamine

[@DC-dp3hk]

Some abrasive paper on a block could be used to sand a 45deg bevel on the sawn edges. That would give a nice straight finish to the melamine finish and wouldn't catch the eye like the chipped edge of the melamine.

[@woollysoxx]

isopropyl alcohol will break the bond of hot glue, just squirt some around joint and pry it off. Great video

[@phillsutton2246]

Try treating yourself to a set of down cut jigsaw blades they are great for cutting melamine and worktops gives a much cleaner cut.

[@deepmystic6739]

Mate you need a fine saw blade, also when your using the Jigsaw, tape up the bit your cutting it will reduce tear out a lot as it's keep everything together

[@thomaslundberg5588]

You could make a feature out of it by boxing it in permanently with an access door for the pipes and sockets. That way the owner could tile over the boxed part and make it look better. Other options I was thinking of are: 1. move pipe to adjacent wall so that boxing is only needed in the corner 2. box it in permanently but extend the wires for the double socket so it is mounted to the boxed section instead of wall behind I understand you are working in somebody else's property so your solution might not be the same as it would in your own house. Interesting to see you are a structural engineer/handyman now :)

[@miroslav-kalapov]

Before doing silicone, I would try to just go over the rugged edge with white paint marker. I will still be visible but far less irritating to the eye - I think it will do the job.

[@detroutspinners9933]

I think with a bit of silicone that’s about as good a job as you can do with that - the plumber really stitched you up there!

[@abeerkhan4702]

looking forward to summer, have you ever built / made a gazebo. I am looking at purchasing/ making a 2.5 x 3.5 mtr gazebo. Have you ever made such a video. Can you please let me know if you have or intend to do. Many thanks.

[@mugban6836]

B and Q on the way home to get some down cutting blades!!

[@webbo73]

nice little job - shame the two sockets had to be covered - is there such as a thing as a socket with plugs on the back that could have transferred the power from the wall sockets to a new set that you cut in to the melamine without having to do any wiring - like a passthrough sort of thing?

[@Norfolkonsea]

Had a new boiler fitted a few years back and wondered the best way to box it in, yay I've found it! Two major advantages, SWMBO will have to find something else to nag about and I get to buy a new toy, a hot melt glue gun. Everyone's a winner! 🤣

[@ramsaysg]

plumber was a bogit and scarper merchant