A very small, but important job!

[@Peter_Vidgeon]

I had exactly the same job to do many years ago. I made an 'L' shaped melamine cover, just like you did, but stuck matching tiles to the kitchen walls onto it, blending the joints to the tiles on the walls. The unit became quite heavy and did not need any fixings at all. It has stayed put for over twenty years, but can be slid out of the way if needed.

[@NAFO_Badger_Brigade]

Yeah - this is the best option

[@samrix5793]

Reminds me of DIY in the 80s melamine, plastic blocks and magnet catches

[@Rob.Coleman]

Happy memories watching my Dad do exactly this 🙂.

[@tomodges]

Seems mad to make something removable to then silicone it in?

[@FreqyBiker]

Great idea with the magnets, but who's the winklespanner who thought running a water pipe between two mains socket/switches was a good idea? Rrrrrridiculous

[@marissakeynes2532]

Maybe that was his only option.

[@K.F.L]

​@marissakeynes2532 Its not the only option

[@billferrol4202]

To stop the break out with the jigsaw use it upside down - that reverses the tear out side. It takes a bit of practise to get it right. Or you could buy a blade that cuts on the down stroke. Also liquid paper (tippex) over the tear out somewhat blends in with the melamine.

[@ironpirate8]

Maybe you could silicone a small quadrant trim onto the tiles each side, so that the boxing could tuck in behind them and still attach to the magnets in order to be removable?

[@jeremywhilde]

Would have added a double socket to the boxing in to bring it out to the surface and a short fly lead with a 13 amp plug to plug in to the original socket behind, then use a plastic back box with longer screws from the front double socket to the back box or use a metal back box. To prevent chip-out on the melamine use masking tape and cut through the melamine with a Stanley knife along your finished cut line, then cut a couple of mm away from the finished cut line and sand or plane down to the line.

[@AidanWilliamson]

I was wondering if you could do this under code, effectively just a mini extension cable.

[@BlueVelvetBear]

Please make a video of your melamine magic skills to teach us all great master 🙏 🙌

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

I would box in all the pipes as one, and relocate those switches and receptacles to the outside of that box...

[@WarrensRandomAndWeirdVideos]

Sometimes that’s not possiblr

[@jdt1459sja]

More work and more money if jou want it to be perfect !!😊

[@WarrensRandomAndWeirdVideos]

@@jdt1459sja with the time he had he did the best he could tbf

[@TheLukemcdaniel]

@@jdt1459sja I strongly dislike the idea of half-assing anything. I'd much prefer to whole-ass it.

[@garybrown5500]

Me too. Would've got a base unit end panel to match doors or tiled. Just would niggle with my mind, which is why everything takes me so bloody long!

[@rickyard11]

Should have used a melamine jigsaw blade (ultra fine and cuts on the down motion)

[@cedarstuff]

Thanks, didn't know those existed.

[@neilcolbert]

Starrett do blades which cut down at the top and up at the bottom so pretty good finish both sides of the material. Sorry I can't remember the name of them but I've found them really useful 👍

[@waynelewis5656]

​@@cedarstuff'proper' DIY 😅

[@alexkane5608]

The job looks good as it is. I think I would use some white plastic trim over the ends because, if you then add the silicone bead, pulling the cover off to gain access to the socket will not be possible.

[@MrAmps]

What I like about the most is simply that there is no such thing as a quick job. Everything in that video from start to finish rings true for me. Cheers.

[@al2425-d5t]

Given the positioning of everything you were in a no win situation. As a personal alternative I think I would have boxed in the pipes to the left and put a piece of that white plastic pipe wrap on the lone water pipe so you could have left access to the sockets. Maybe that wouuld not be acceptable to the owner though. For other jobs I like the idea of the hot glue simply as a way to locate the join bits prior to screwing them into wood or something. Great channel, with good tips and techniques. Thanks

[@stephenjlangford2451]

Could you fit a socket front to your boxing & simply connect to the socket behind via a flex and 13amp plug, obviously checking building & electrical regs. Nice job though, the simple ones are the best👍👍

[@stephenjames6534]

Great video Stuart, I recently did the same for a friend with a black quartz worktop with mirror flecks like your one. I brought a small piece of shower panel in gloss black with mirror flecks and virtually did what you did, I used a tile trim in chrome for the edges. It honestly looked like part of the worktop and cheap to make. Keep up the great videos.

[@TR-rz1xt]

Shower panel (or end bath panel) was my thought, no reason (other than time/access now) that it can't still be done using the white melamine as a base - just clad it with trim as you suggest will hide rough edges.

[@retiree1033]

I think I would have put all those electricals, including the fused switches on fly leads using Wego's or something similar and cut holes for new back boxes in the melamine.

[@waynelewis5656]

This is exactly how it should be done. What a shit job he did. 'Proper' DIY?? 😅

[@HeavyMechY]

Im so glad, To see a video with the difficulties of these jobs. Great job.

[@adroniga]

Hello mate! Just a quick pro tip that I've got from my father in law who's been a carpenter for 25+ years and installed many kitchen appliances: when cutting melamine if you don't want it to chip like that just put some paper tape over the line you're supposed to be cutting and then remove it once you're done. The difference is amazing, I've tried it myself a couple of times now. Cheers, Adrian!

[@caskwith]

I've seen several videos of people testing this and if anything putting tape on the line made the cut worse as it pulls off any weak bits..

[@worrun1505]

I always use masking tape when cutting similar materials, correct

[@BALLOOROOM]

I'd add when used with the correct blade, masking tape is good but it can't work miracles.

[@alpachino468]

Yeah, we all know this, but just remember he was working away from home, so it's likely he didn't bring any tape with him...

[@adroniga]

​@@caskwith I've tried it myself at least 3 times both with a jigsaw and a circular saw and it worked wonders!

[@ArchEdge]

Love difficult small projects. Great video Stuart. Heres one you’ll love… you can buy jigsaw blades that cut on the downstroke, for jobs that need the good side facing up! 😊

[@marks-0-0]

A well thought through and perfect job well done. The only thing I'd add to it is to make up a small socket extension with a surface mount back box and glue it just outside the cover above those fused switches.

[@P.Roach85]

Nice job buddy. Thanks for the upload. Sometimes a small job can be more troublesome than a large one & it's most probably made a huge difference to someone!

[@Heisse_Huette_Cologne]

I recommend Bosch EXPERT Wood 2-side clean T 308 BO blades for such jobs. They preventing the surface splintering quite good. Furthermore you would get better results using the Jigsaw upside down. And this task is easier done by using a Barrel Jigsaw. Or you can make good use of a Multitool in this case. I like watching your Videos, keep up your good work👍

[@sdelbari]

That has given me idea on how to box the ugly pipes in my bathroom, thanks 🙏

[@XL-5117]

I can watch you all day working. My dad used these magnetic catches as well when he worked. That took me back a bit. He always thought out of the box when thinking of solutions for situations like you!

[@DaveGDesigns]

Nice video as always Stuart and a great use of the magnetic catches. This might be a silly question but with the catches making it easy to remove the panel if you want to use the sockets doesn't adding a bead of silicone cancel out the removability of the panel?

[@Marktb363]

Great point! 🙂

[@antomac]

Attach some clingfilm to the wall first (hold it in place with masking tape etc). Then apply your bead of silicone etc., wait for it to cure and then peel away the clingfilm... Hey presto a nice fillet of sealant bonded to the Melamine but not bonded to the tiles! .. The only downside is waiting for the sealant to cure before you can finish the job..

[@harisfrq]

@@antomacthat is genius mate , thank you for that tip

[@oompje]

I used magnets to hold the footboard of my kitchen cupboards. Instead of silicone, I used a white silicon-like U-shaped strip with a lip, that resembles silicone on the edge of the boards. It connects to the wall perfectly closing the gap without sticking to any surface. I would have placed two wallplugs into the board and connected them with a cable and plugs to the existing wallplugs. No big job and easy to remove or put back the board. Nice video!

[@chrissheppard4891]

I had this exact same problem with the type of tile and how I got around it was, I got some white sponge draft excluder and stuck it to the two ends of the boards, that way when i offered up the box section the sponge took the same shape as the profile of the tiles and ended up with a really nice finish. 🙂

[@ianrobson5563]

I had an almost identical situation a few years back to pipes that were there before we moved in. I have just left it free standing, the only difference being I was able to source a piece of MDF almost identical to the wall units. With some kitchen items in front of it, it is not obvious at all. Great work, love watching your videos.

[@ukexbreakdownman]

well done solved a difficult problem had the same problem myself where new boiler was fitted

[@andrewbrinkman9732]

How you going to remove box ,if you silicon down the edge

[@strummer6642]

If you're a landlord you want this kind of job doing cheaply as well as quickly so ideal for a handyman. The guy's clearly not a plumber, but moving the cold feed across is relatively simple especially as it rises through the vent, just need to bend/shape the pipe in the cupboard. The double socket can be moved to the right of the fused switches and tap into the same supply. Triple boxes are available so no mess.

[@cbs1710]

Not sure if this would work, but: Maybe you could put a transparent packing tape where the silicone bead would touch the tile on both sides; apply the white silicone, mould it, and wait for it to dry fully; then cut the tape along the line and carefully remove the cover. Then, remove the remains of the tape from the tiles, and (optionally/possibly from the newly formed silicone edging). Thus, silicon edge would nicely conform to he contours, cover the chip-out on the melamine, and cover would still be removable per need. I am not sure if silicone would adhere to the packing tape, so an alternative tape might be needed (paper masking tape, maybe?) for it to work.

[@Crazy_Dave]

Cracking idea and maybe use cling film as the isolation medium which would be easier to remove.

[@idi0tdetectioninprogress]

It doesn`t appear he had that sort of timeframe to let silicone cure, it`s a one strike visit by the looks of things. Could have glued a trim bead to the melamine face to cover any chip out, then it would all be removable as one piece. It may have helped if someone could have sent him some pictures/measurements of the job beforehand. Not much else he could have done here.

[@phillsutton2246]

Try treating yourself to a set of down cut jigsaw blades they are great for cutting melamine and worktops gives a much cleaner cut.

[@chandrasekhargrenze9211]

That's what I needed, for have to do exactly this job to do in the kitchen to come of my son's new home. And You confirmed my idea to use magnets. I'm happy to see You doing it and working it out, so it is less complicated for me and a real help! Thank You very much! Greetings from Germany^^

[@johnduncan231]

Must confess never found those particular magnetic catches very strong. Used them for a stair gate to prevent my puppies going upstairs, gate kept popping open. Got some from ebay literally 10 time's stronger ¼ of the footprint.

[@843thebear]

It's the type of job which a customer would assume takes only an hour to do, but in reality might take the bast part of the day.

[@samuelbeckett4632]

When cutting melamine & a crisp clean edge is absolutely imperative, I usually change out the blade (circular or jig) for a new one with a higher tooth count. Run a line of tape over the intended cut line to help prevent a chipped edge, or use a 'sharp' stanley blade to score through the melamine coating on the forward facing cut lines, then cut a fraction shy of the line. Perform a test cut to establish characteristics of the saw if you're not sure. As mentioned, the underside 'up-cut' will always give the cleanest cut, so plan accordingly. TBH, if the pre-scribe/cut gap isn't too big, I'd just run the silicone fillet & hide the gap; one less cut & it won't prevent panel removal when needed.

[@45graham45]

What sort of tape? Would scribe with a Stanley knife through the tape?

[@kevinhackett2449]

I think if you painted the pipes a colour to match the tiles it would blend the pipes in it would hide them in my opinion

[@stevenrichardson7882]

With silicon around the edges you’ll loose access to the double socket? I use tape on the boards before cutting as it gives you a cleaner cut.

[@ian_morg]

Nice job! I used the same method when I boxed in our gas meter in our hallway. I battoned around the meter then clad it in pallet wood and used the same catches for the front so it looks like a solid box but you can lift it off in an emergency or when the plumber comes to service the boiler.

[@Gman4633]

I have a similar job to do at home and this has given me something to consider - very easy access for maintenance 👍🏽

[@TheOldBlackCrow]

I was thinking to extend the outlet out with a diy extension cord so it's accessible without having to move the box all the time... 🤷‍♂️

[@Amped-JDS]

Time to watch some videos on how you cut a scribe with a jigsaw. Cut from underneath gives a far better cut but you will struggle with the old school jigsaw. A down cut blade will also sort the chipping out.

[@reg8848]

I tend to buy a decor end panel and use a track saw to cut to size (most providers have at least some old stock). I then use builders Velcro to put it together as often isolation valves are in that area. It can be dismantled easily and reused after.

[@thebushyone]

To follow a scribe line with a jigsaw when you need the scribe side to be neat with no chips, simply turn the jigsaw upside down and cut from underneath. You use the blade that sticks up through the wood as your guide. If that makes sense?

[@RB-xg2vz]

That boiler install is shocking….cant believe the owner signed that off….

[@johannes.f.r.]

What's wrong with that? Seems quite tidy. All straoght pipes down. The last one couldn't go on the left, it would obscure the socket or come out further from the wall. This is the sort of stuff that happens when you put a boiler in a place it wasn't designed to go.

[@moo7137]

Believe me, this is a neat installation by British standards.

[@mattylindsayblackburn1877]

What would you of done differently?

[@jbaidley]

Welcome to rental houses in the UK! The only thing the average landlord cares about is "How cheap can you do it?".

[@smoggydrones5664]

@@moo7137I know gas needs special care and cannot be touched by a DIYer but surely the cabinet was butchered and the pipes should not have been left like that. If had to box the pipes in he would have done a better job with the pipes

[@jimcollard]

Whats the point of the magnetic connectors as once you silicon the edges you won,t be able to pull it away from the wall, thus how can you use the 2 sockets ?

[@ashleyberry1116]

Once you put a bead of silicone around it it’s no longer moveable?

[@KBTibbs]

A nice, quick job in a strange circumstance. If you add a bead of caulk to the edges, how will you keep the ability to remove the box from the wall?

[@pzwolski]

Instead of caulking you can use silicone or plastic gaskets ending the melamine board. I would recommend kitchen plinth seals that usually close all gaps between the plinth blades and the kitchen floor.

[@unholyarmyofone]

But then aren't you back to the issue of having a straight edge against bumpy tile?

[@KevinRowe-v1h]

Surely adding the silicone beading stops access to the socket? Awkward job for sure.🤷‍♂️

[@The_Jupiter2_Mission]

How can you silicone all the joins if you want the whole piece to be removable to access the power points at any time?

[@harisfrq]

I loved how this covered all the little niggles of a install seeming to be so simple but to do a clean and proper job it takes attention to detail which is well highlighted in this video

[@shaunheafield2147]

I really liked the use of the hot glue. It was a good way to position the magnets and if you wanted to you could fix them permanently afterwards now that you have the perfect position

[@stephendavies6949]

Hi Stuart. Never underestimate the usefulness of showing us DIYers how to do "small" jobs. The skills/techniques used on 1 job can be used on others.

[@andypyne]

Lots of critics, but I really like the video and the winging-it solution. Imperfect tools and materials to perform an imperfect job that's 'good enough' is often what DIY is about 😂 With more time, money, better tools and materials, no doubt a better solution exists, but you have to work within the parameters you've got. Love it!

[@Retrobution]

You could buy some plinth strip that is used for, well, plinths (or kickboards) to hide the rough edges and the way the stips are design is like a water seal edge which could fit snug across the unever surface of the tile, just cut away some of the strip edge that sits on the socket

[@c.a.g.1977]

Clever solution, Stuart! Wonder if the hot glue will hold over time. If I may ask: putting on the caulk will tidy it up, but also fix it to the wall? Or have you got some other clever solution for that problem? (if so: please share!)

[@musthavechannel5262]

I once ran into such problem. Putting a strip of masking tape on the tile/wall will form the caulk nicely and the tape can then be cleaned off after caulk dries.

[@andrewbrinkman9732]

Thought the idea of magnetic fixings was to easy removal of box so why caulk or silicon bad edge

[@Raymond-Gibb]

Tippex is real handy for touching in white furniture board.

[@NoodlesR6]

Nice job! I would have fixed the smaller piece to the wall and counter top with white silicon. Then you have the magnets joining the the face to wall and melamine

[@mr.b.4048]

Whenever I am doing a job away from home as a DIYer, I have a list in my garage for a To Go box for additional tools not in my toolbox (clamps, gaffer tape + +) and a To Go compartment box for those little extras (wall plugs, PTFE tape + +]. Works for me as I then have everything that I can think about needing for the job.

[@webbo73]

nice little job - shame the two sockets had to be covered - is there such as a thing as a socket with plugs on the back that could have transferred the power from the wall sockets to a new set that you cut in to the melamine without having to do any wiring - like a passthrough sort of thing?

[@fireblaster9961]

Pretty slick idea using the magnets.....I personally wouldn’t have but my tools on the worktop without some protection and definitely wouldn’t have started hammering

[@7mag]

Thanks; very interesting vid.

[@Reprint001]

Measure and make, then fit. 18mm MRMDF painted black (if that was the owner's preference), button fix type 2's to fix it to the wall and black decorators caulk around it at the tiles and worktop which is far less permanent than silicone. It didn't look like a wet area so no need for silicone.

[@abeerkhan4702]

looking forward to summer, have you ever built / made a gazebo. I am looking at purchasing/ making a 2.5 x 3.5 mtr gazebo. Have you ever made such a video. Can you please let me know if you have or intend to do. Many thanks.

[@miroslav-kalapov]

Before doing silicone, I would try to just go over the rugged edge with white paint marker. I will still be visible but far less irritating to the eye - I think it will do the job.

[@ramsaysg]

plumber was a bogit and scarper merchant

[@jayseabie215]

Some years ago I fixed up a wooden (or at least fake wood) bath panel using exactly the same type of magnets. Still holding up now and easily removable!

[@GRUMP5B]

In the past I have used masking tape along the cut line (all side front and back etc) to minimise the blow out. It works to a fashion and is easily masked against the wall to be hidden by caulking.

[@AlanBell]

Good to show a job with compromises and constraints that you would rather were not there in the first place. Boilers now require a massive ventilation hole below them, so that is why the boiler cupboard doesn't have a bottom at all. Pipe placement was horrible, but dictated by the retrofitted boiler. All in all a reasonable bodge was required and implemented.

[@emdotdee]

Would using a Stanley knife to cut through the melamine first before making the proper cut help with chip out?

[@PaulFord-t9l]

To get a better matching colour you can use the thin vinyl click floor tiles glued over a cheaper box built from plywood/osb, maybe need a piece of trim for exposed corners. Tiles are easier to cut, and cover any area. Used this technique to box in pipes in kitchen and to build a custom fit bath panel.

[@owenrichardson1419]

So when you run the silicon you will stick the box to the tile surely, or is there a plan to have a floating bead?

[@andyc972]

Welcome back to Essex Stuart, I know precisely where that is, we used to dirt track through the woods around there as kids in the 70s ! What a bodge job that installation was, particularly placing the water pipe between the two electrical fittings, no excuse for that. Of course this wasn't up to your usual standards Stuart, but nonetheless an interesting thing to show and you worked a solution on the fly with little time or equipment so what can realistically be expected. I think I know the sale you are referring to, I also bought the Workmate from there as a gift for my Daughter who is just starting on her DIY journey so have also directed her to your excellent Channel .

[@martincleeves4238]

You can get jigsaw blades that cut on the downward stroke,which is nice!

[@steventrueman3493]

If you add a small bead of silicone to the ragged edges, wont that now effectively be glued to the wall? Useful tip with the magnetic catches though😁

[@dml1970]

For removing hot glue Isopropol Alcohol is excelent, just dip a small paint brush in the alcohol brush it onto the glue and soak it as much as possible, wait for about 30 seconds and it will peel away.

[@glenndaly3975]

Wife and I just laughed when we saw this as I am in the middle of something quite similar and the use of magnets. Wife thought I was crazy until she saw this. As much as in trying to cover pipes it means the removal of a laundry basket and to compensate, I am trying to create narrow depth shelving which will enclose the pipes but are easily removable to allow the boiler engineer in to service it and to get at the pipes. It will use a quick locking type clasp.

[@deepmystic6739]

Mate you need a fine saw blade, also when your using the Jigsaw, tape up the bit your cutting it will reduce tear out a lot as it's keep everything together

[@Neil-Hanson67]

As a handyman myself Stu , if i do work like this i generally wipe the tiles with alcohol just to remove any grease or dirt that can accumulate in these sort of areas seems to give really strong bond. i really like these types of videos you do at your friends apartments too, more please.

[@aarthur2803]

But if you put a bead of silicone down the edges then surely it will no longer be easy to remove???

[@ianknight8176]

Why didn't you use a down cutting blade in the jigsaw to save the exposed edge?

[@figrollin]

id have been tempted to box around all of it (including the sockets), but then bring all the sockets out to the face of the "box" - providing there was enough slack on the wire.

[@tonkatoy200]

You can use a washer for scribing. Works brilliantly

[@DMUSA536]

Probably a 1,000 different ways to do this. I always watch so I can see different techniques that could be used in different applications. Also watching the difference between US and British, like your switches are down for on and ours are up. I’m impressed how you convert metric to inches.

[@artursmihelsons415]

Great job! Looks 100% better than naked pipes. 👍 Love mounting idea with furniture magnets.. In place of silicon, I, probably, just file edges a little bit, to get away from bigger grooves, making it smoother and paint these edges white.. 😂

[@chriseccles1454]

Box the group and white electrical trunking on the single pipe. Those are magnetic cabinet catches.I would have hot glued the plate too the wall. Scribe the underside of the melamine and mask tape or half depth cut from both sides. Iron on edge tape. Seems there's vent slots back of work top and your somewhat restricting any appliances

[@utubeifuwantto]

A couple of tips. Always wear a mask when cutting chipboard/mdf. Get a down-cut jigsaw blade to avoid the ragged edge. I like to the use of magnetic grips, a good video.

[@marlinstudio.]

Small plastic quadrant instead of a bead of silicone. The silicone will prevent easy removal of the cover? Quadrant will cover any undesired edges. Fixed to the removable cover and not the counter top will mean it can be removed with the cover.

[@johncolquhoun6416]

I had same problem and use a material Dibond which is used for cladding. You need to router a grove in it to fold it. One of they jobs thats a total pain in the arse.

[@andrewm6192]

Try masking tape on the cut surface to stop it chipping the surface!!!

[@MrJozza65]

You can get trim pieces for the bottom of kitchen cupboard plinths, which have a silicon seal on them. Perhaps try that, and it would seal up to the tiles, hide the tear out on the melamine cut edge, and be removable. I do dislike working with melamine, particularly the white stuff; it's so hard to get a decent finish on the cuts. Nice job considering how awkward the position of the pipes and power sockets and switches were.

[@DC-dp3hk]

Some abrasive paper on a block could be used to sand a 45deg bevel on the sawn edges. That would give a nice straight finish to the melamine finish and wouldn't catch the eye like the chipped edge of the melamine.

[@jamesstoker2807]

How about painting the cut edges of the boards just to tidy them up a bit ?

[@NAFO_Badger_Brigade]

This is what true handymen do - the fiddly little jobs thst make a difference! New clips are now available on the internet for removable panels such as this.

[@paulgreen9265]

If you silicone then renders the ease of taking it off with the magnets useless?

[@philtebble4390]

Great job Stuart 👏

[@marcusregan4815]

Like the saw track that you made up.

[@chocothemagnificent1019]

A clever fitting of materials :)

[@mburton5365]

Never tried it myself but would it have been possible to cut a V notch on the back of the board using a router at the 90 degree bend, heat it up with a heatgun, bend it the 90 degrees then reinforce the corner with those plastic blocks ? It would give it a seamless appearance. Can melamine be heated and bent ?

[@K.F.L]

Anyone know of you could use caulk over the ripped edges, sanded down flush with a lick of paint to finish off also adding strenth to the chalk? Or would it be too brittle?

[@DocteGaby]

You can get jigsaw blades that cut on the down stroke to keep the edge neater. Or do like bourbon moth and use your jigsaw upside down! 😮 I wonder if some painter's tape on the cut line might have helped a bit too, although melamine is a pig to cut at the best of times anyway. Anyway, that was an interesting and realistic problem to solve. Thanks for the video

[@JohnTheHandymanUK]

Stuart, you did a decent enough job all things considered, but you cut the side piece from the wrong side! If you'd cut from the other side you wouldn't have got all the tear out of the edges. Scribing the melamine with a blade helps too.