A Very Thorough Pirate Shirt Tutorial [CC]

All of my machine sewn 18th century shirt advice, after having made 40+ of the things.
I would have put "18th century shirt" in the title, but I figure more people are likely to search for pirate shirt, poet shirt, vampire shirt, etc., and I want to help people who are unfamiliar with rectangular construction!
Timestamps:
00:00:00 - Intro
00:01:42 - Measurements & Cutting
00:13:54 - Front slit & Patch
00:22:46 - Shoulders & Collar
00:33:25 - Sleeves
00:36:08 - Patreon Interruption
00:36:50 - Sides & Hems
00:48:03 - Wristbands
00:53:44 - Buttons & Buttonholes
1:04:25 - Fabric, thread, ruffle material
1:09:26 - Ruffles
1:22:33 - Outro (& outfit montage)
Blog posts with written instructions, and links to some hand sewing resources:
vincentbriggs....
(I'll also update it to add any little things I forgot to mention there, or that I think require more clarification.)
My favourite Canadian source for shirt linen:
www.purelinene...
My shirts pinterest board:
www.pinterest....
Hand sewn buttonhole video:
• How to Hand Sew Button...
Fabric covered button video:
• 18th Century Cloth Cov...
Sleeve links/sleeve buttons video:
• 18th Century Sleeve Li...
Video that helped me learn how to use my narrow hem foot:
• Using A Vintage Singer...
(More links to various things on the blog.)
Tag me in the social medias if you make a shirt, I would love to see it!
Instagram
/ vincentbriggs1780
Facebook
www.facebook.c...
Blogger
vincentbriggs....
Spoonflower:
www.spoonflowe...
Redbubble:
www.redbubble....
Ko-fi
ko-fi.com/vinc...
Patreon:
/ pterribledinosaurdrawings
Tumblr
/ vincentbriggs
Pinterest
www.pinterest....
Music from Epidemicsound.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Edit: Ok NOW it does have a pedal, because I bought one and added it, and it's working again. So I was wrong about the motor, it was the contacts after all. Very annoyed at the repair guy, because I did specifically ask him about the contacts, and he said he looked in there and they were fine. ~ no there's nothing wrong with my machine's foot pedal, it doesn't have one! It just has a knee lever! I think the problem is in the potted motor, and unfortunately the repair guy hadn't seen one before.

[@ruthnelson2144]

@vincentbriggs1780 Your machine is definitely an old guy. I'm told they are fairly simple mechanically speaking. You might try searching the internet for a rebuilt motor for that model. It shouldn't be too hard to put in. It would be worth the effort because even in its current condition it is and always will be better than the "newer" one in your video.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

@@ruthnelson2144 Yes, there's lots of information on repairing old Singers on the internet! I've found some posts about refurbishing potted motors, so I may try that. I've borrowed another Singer for the moment. The newer one isn't that much newer, and it's a really good model! Very ugly, but very well built. It's a Pfaff 360, and I think is from the 1960's. (which would make it only about 20 years younger than my Singer) I got the Pfaff at an estate sale for 25 bucks, with plenty of feet and spare bobbins, and it looks like it's barely been used. It turns out one of the common problems with those ones is that there's a protective waxy finish to keep the insides from rusting and it hardens and jams up the insides over the years. I've got most of it unstuck, but there's still something not right with the side to side motion, and it's now only doing a tiny awful zig zag. I haven't touched it in a few weeks, but I found the service manual on the internet archive, and hopefully can get my engineer father to help with it. (And once it's back to working order I'll have a machine that can do zigzag! I've never had that!)

[@lindahanke]

@@vincentbriggs1780 whether it’s a foot pedal or the knee lever motor the problem is in there. I fixed mine that had the same problem.

[@tigerwalton545]

Sewist me: Oh, this is a really detailed and informative instructional, with lots of super helpful tidbits😀 Goth me: Steal that red voile vampire shirt and run away really fast! 🧛

[@WitchOracle]

It is truly magnificent!

[@susanpilling8849]

Thank you for a thorough video. As a maker of handsewn, 17th-century shirts, I found this very interesting. Your calm voice and quiet wit are a delight. I'm almost 70, so a bit old fashioned, and I find so many others annoyingly loud and fast talking. I'm happy to wait for your content and although I know KZbin is pushing for 'shorts' the longer form is much more to my taste. I am ver envious of your nails! 👏👏👏

[@quicksilvertears921]

I wanted to mention how much I love this long content. The short stuff makes my ADHD brain get over stimulated. This helps me to focus and understand the construction better.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Thank you! I never aim for any particular length, the videos just end up however long they need to be to fit all the information in with decent pacing.

[@caspenbee]

Thank GOD for you, homie. My chaos-beginner sewing has NOT been cutting it (or rather, I have been cutting it, and then trying to sew it and realizing I already messed up on several points). I want to live the dream you're living with your amazing wardrobe; starting out is very intimidating! So thanks!! Also your jokes are super funny 😂

[@grinninggoat5369]

Your videos make me wierdly wish that historic sewing was an international spectator sport with a jumbotron for close ups! "Peanuts! Popcorn! Hot Dogs... Get your commemorative thimbles here!!"

[@ladyjusticesusan]

I’ve been sewing for over 50 years and I love your meticulous nature so much. I don’t like the people who crank out sewing just to make a video. Their seams and construction are amateurish and don’t meet my old fashioned standards. You are very much appreciated for your details and all that you do. You also explain well and are a joy to watch. Thank you so much for who you are and doing what you do so well.

[@brandyolin5979]

I am so grateful for your channel. I came for the sewing, I've stayed for the peace your content brings. Somehow, it's not just your excellent meticulous work, it's the inferred permission to live my life in my own terms that I treasure. I have a short list of creators who are so comfortably themselves that I feel immediately empowered to be myself, and this channel is on that list. Thank you so much!❤

[@vincentbriggs1780]

A grand compliment! Thank you so much!!

[@GarnLeg]

I whole heartedly agree.

[@becauseimafan]

Ooh well said! Agreed!!

[@kathymarshall220]

Your videos are what my neurodivergent infodumps want to be when they grow up 💖

[@unrightist]

Right? ❤

[@GM-qq1wi]

We love a thorough king. I'm adding this to a watch later play list so I can watch again when I finally get around to ordering some fabric.

[@OctopusOwl]

Am halfway through and it's a legit great step by step. The shirts made like this last forever too.

[@cherylowilley6007]

And, so many excellent tips: waxing the ends of threads before sinking, cross-over top-stitching at top of sleeve slit to arm felled seam, taking a few machine stitches in another part of the garment before starting the actual seam (to avoid the machine eating the threads), etc etc etc

[@hrani]

Oh, trimming and folding of the seam allowance into the little triangles is BRILLIANT. I've been sewing for 25 years, went to school for it, and this was the first time I saw that. It makes so much sense.

[@AnidHarker]

thank you for showing exactly how the front openings will tear, somehow I was imagining something different at that place

[@DUNG30NDUCK]

the Front Slit & Patch section - if I could facepalm hard enough to send myself into the stratosphere I would. I have always had problems with the inner corner of slits like that and have always chastised myself for not manipulating the fabric well enough to avoid the inner V corner being slightly raw, even with a patch. I had never considered doing the button hole stitching detail. The urge to rush to my table and start cutting a shirt just to do this is quite immense. Oh my god.

[@margaritagerman]

Your sense of humor, wry whimsy, is enchanting. Even though i am a grandma if 60 years, i still covet both your wardrobe and sewing skill. I push the like button before i even start watching your videos. I dont always watch immediately, i must plan the time. I despise watching in bits and pieces. It seems i almost always lose some important tidbit if it is in pieces. You are a treasure. I so enjoy and learn from your videos. Ahh, did i mention how delightful is your humor?

[@FlickiChicki]

I found a cheap 10 meter cut of charcoal linen that needed a home. I believe I need a vampire pirate shirt now. As the printed crimson red linen will become also. And the purple bird print linen.

[@beyondapolloslyre]

Last year, I used the Burnley and Trowbridge work shirt tutorial to make my own shirt, but I tried to convert it myself into machine sewn. It was the first thing I ever sewed, so it took a long time and many iterations to come out right. I should make another with this tutorial as it makes so much more sense. I could always use more 18th century shirts

[@iansmith2013]

Oh, Vincent, that transition to "vampire" was hilarious 😂 Going back to watching.

[@ilikebigbooks]

I think you read my mind. I was looking at pirate shirt videos the other night.

[@gailchavis8938]

My mother was taught to sew by Edith Head's (famous Hollywood film designer) assistant. And mom taught me. So I learned the classic and correct sewing methods. I really appreciate what you are all about, admire your knowledge, and skill, and patience and attention to detail. Thank you for entertaining us, and sharing your immense experience! I'll wait for quality videos, over quantity. Curious about your shoes and stockings.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Wow, that's so cool! I'm not very familiar with old Hollywood but I have definitely heard of Edith Head, and I saw her in a Columbo episode. Most of my stockings are from Sock Dreams, and the shoes are from American Duchess, though I bought them some years ago and they don't appear to have that style available at the moment. (Also, thank you! I do wish I was a bit faster at making these, but I'm not fussed at all about upload schedules. Though it would be nice to make something shorter for the next one..)

[@becauseimafan]

​@@vincentbriggs1780 okay in case you wanted ideas for that, you could maybe show some repairs or alterations? Not that I mean for you to literally bring your work home, I swear! Especially if it was something that, say you had to do anyway, like picking up something from a mending pile 😁 (#2birds1stone?) or a follow up to a previous video answering questions you got? Loved this, I'm absolutely gonna make my own shirt for the first time this year with this tutorial!! I'm teaching myself sewing, by hand, only made a couple tiny bags, and a few minor repairs before. I love your videos (and your pterribledinosaurs ❤️) and now I'm gonna rewatch your patchwork dressing gown video 🤩

[@vincentbriggs1780]

@@becauseimafan I have a list of about 60 ideas written down, so I definitely don't need any more for a long time! I don't want to do a video on my boring alterations job, but I did just post a tutorial on tumblr for how I shorten jacket sleeves, because someone asked. Hooray! Best of luck on your shirt!

[@becauseimafan]

@@vincentbriggs1780 thank you! I'll definitely make a bunch of mistakes but I'm looking forward to it?? I'm going to learn so much! 😁 Oh yes I saw that post (I follow all your tumblrs heehee), your pics were so well done like it was easy to see details you were talking about on the very dark fabric! And even though I *don't* know how to do any of the sewing things, I am still able to understand everything you say in your videos and write in your posts! You're clear and precise and explain so well ❤️ (Also I hope you're enjoying all The Green around you now, and recover quickly from painting aches!!)

[@cherylowilley6007]

Oh, you are a master. Your wry whimsy is a delight.

[@cecikierk]

I watched all 1:29:02 of it. It's probably the most thorough video on making these types of shirts. I've always wondered how to finish the underarm gussets and you explained it very well.

[@shelleyaw123]

I’m just blown away!! So much information I’ve been trying to find FOREVER!!! There are some really good KZbin channels out there. But this video addresses many of the problems I’ve been trying to figure out how to overcome. Thank you.

[@Mongoly8]

Yay another video! Ironic that you're making an 18th century shirt, the project I'm working on right now while I watch is an 18th century shirt. I'm doing blackwork embroidered cuffs that have dragons on them this time around. It's taking forever but I can't wait to wear it and have some dragon friends on my wrists.

[@sophiehoward4877]

I have had so much trouble sitting down and focusing on things recently so the fact that I sat and watched this entire video in one sitting without any other distractions is amazing, great work!!!

[@Thexscha]

A new video on the "essays that calm me down" list 🙌 excellent as always

[@annas2912]

You are the first person in years of looking that said what to do with the neck gussets and neck gathers. Thank you! FYI, as you guessed, the gutterman cotton thread you have (on the beige spools) is their hand quilting thread - it's quite hard and I think lightly waxed, and it's great for hand basting or sewing. They have a machine sewing cotton thread on more brown-tan spools that is very similar to their polyester - I prefer it because it's a little less sharp/rough. It comes in a ton of colors - I think all the same colors as their poly thread.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Good to know, thank you! I'll have a look in Fabricville next time I'm nearby, but I may have to order some thread online, my local one doesn't even carry Gütermann silk anymore.

[@ruthnelson2144]

It's a good technique to avoid bulk by hand tying end threads and then hiding them as you show BUT another method is to shrink your stitch length to almost nothing for the last 3 or 4 stitches and then cut the thread very close to the fabric surface. I promise it stays closed. This is especially easy with your antique Singer since it just involves moving the reverse level to "not quite" reverse. Also you can tug on the bobbin thread enough to pull the needle thread to the bottom and then firmly tug the needle thread only. It seriously locks those thread babies securely in place. Hope this makes sense. Love the videos.

[@elishagreen2954]

i love this guy!!the way he talks and the way he does his content. Just all of it! You rock Vincent ❤️❤️❤️

[@m.maclellan7147]

SO much good info in here ! I'm a baby sewist and have wanted to make a "pirate shirt" for a while. The problem is I have a physical job, so my neck, shoulders & arm measurements need to be custom! You have included enough information that I feel I can start! Thank you !

[@m.maclellan7147]

P.s. love your "spare" cloth to run your machine past where you need it. Fantastic!!!!

[@jamesingjamesingjamesing]

i will be rewatching this multiple times and finding excuses to tell everyone i know about it! thank you for making and sharing such incredible resources. looking forward to making shirts with confidence - and buying lace with glee, that cotton val looks perfect for antique doll clothes.

[@pchabanowich]

So cavalier, dashing, swank, insouciant, enchanting and artful! Bravo!

[@OctopusOwl]

Weird idea but, would you be interested in making a video about the different types of fabric your prints are available as and what you'd make with the various prints/fabrics? I think it'd generate interest in your prints, exucate people on possible projects and would be fun to see you use a dinosaur or rainbow beastie print to make a frock coat or accessory with!

[@cap4life1]

Every video from VB gets an instant like from me 👍

[@kaytiej8311]

This is incredibly detailed and thorough. Your skill level is always developing and l love how you're willing to learn from your mistakes but also not take anything to seriously; except basting of course!

[@KarmicKnits]

Those antique Singers are headstrong! Stubborn but wonderful beasties.

[@medieval_astronaut]

SUCH a good resource omg. I kept looking over at my pirate shirt (my First Big Sewing Project) and realizing how much easier and better it would’ve been if I’d seen this video first

[@thebraidedmane]

I love listening to your instructions! So pleasant. Loving the different nail colors too. I SO wish I had this video about five years back--I didn't know the correct terms for what I was looking for and was not impressed with what "poet shirt" and "ren faire shirt" turned up. I don't even have anything I need a shirt for right now but I'm tempted to make one just because.

[@ValeriePallaoro]

Wait!! because the KZbin algorithm doesn't know where to put you, my recommendations are off the charts!! And I'm so here for it. Thanks so very much!!!

[@SaturdaySewing]

Watching you sew is always a delight. Thank you for another excellent video.

[@jacobdoran9433]

This is fantastic. As an avid hand sewer I'll be waiting with baited breath and threaded needle for the hand sewn version.

[@lizzyrbits1283]

Just as i think to myself "hmmmm maybe a floaty historical shirt..." Lo, you appear! :)

[@ohnotagainplease]

That outfit montage was a delight!

[@noodlefeather]

THANK YOU for this! I made my first pirate shirt a few months ago by following bernadette banner's video-as much as I love her stuff, that vid is better as entertainment than as a tutorial lol. the shirt came out functional but with many of the mistakes you mentioned, like the sleeve being a bit too long and going over the wrist bands instead of poofing up, and weak points everywhere. I'm not even done watching your vid but it fills me with confidence for my next one! the thorough explanations very much satisfy my autistic brain, I'll be sure to support you on patreon when I have a more stable income ^^

[@judithdomangue9995]

My goodness, you have nothing at all to feel bad about. I cannot express the delight I felt when I noticed that you had posted a video. I am always disarmed by your charm and intellect, and the work you do is unsurpassed by any I have ever seen. I will be watching this video again, and again, I’m sure. Thank you so much, you are a wonderful teacher and I appreciate your sharing where your purchases come from. The buttons are gorgeous. Everything is gorgeous!

[@technopoptart]

i almost never wanna watch a sewing video but when i do i come here first!

[@karinbaird2499]

Thank you for an amazingly detailed video lesson. I too have had electrical speed problems on one of my vintage Singers. Solved it by buying another one to use the foot pedal from. I put a hand crank on the one I de-electrified. I’m all set for the apocalypse now. Greetings from Sweden 💐

[@ImCarolB]

I enjoy your videos so much and have wished that you would post more often. However, because I do hand-sewn historic clothing, I fully understand that it takes up time, and I'm sure you have a life outside of sewing!

[@randywatts6969]

I find your videos very relaxing, even though I don’t sew (my mother taught me how to sew on buttons when I was 12, but that’s the extent of it)

[@rionsanura]

Oh, this is so patient and thorough. Also, I had no idea you had a spoonflower! I am wildly tempted.

[@BenStimpsonAuthor]

I'm glad you're adding more videos, we need more Vincent!

[@loyaultemelie7909]

Watching this while hand sewing a late 19th century corset (no I don't know why I did this to myself) and glad I'm not the only one who obsessively writes down the tiniest measurement details. I swear the first shift I made was two to three pages of diagrams and (bad) maths - and it too was oops all rectangles

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I use graph paper to map out my rectangles-and-gores dresses (essenially shifts made out of flannel),. usually because I'm trying to use every single scrap of a limited piece of fabric (I can make a whole dress with 2m of fabric now) and I can't do it just with straight math despite an engineering degree, so don't feel bad about needing to draw stuff out, it's just how some brains work. And if you write it ALL down, then you know what to change the next time, if something wasn't quite right, or if your body goes through some changes. I also leave myself notes on how things fit and things I'd change if I remade the garment. I keep it all in a three-ring binder, each project's pattern and design notes crammed into its own page protector.

[@adrianghandtchi1562]

I would say that this tutorial has come a really good time. I am slowly getting some things started for my pirate costume, and of course I love the work that you do for your historical pieces. The pairing a bunch of rectangles together to make this garment makes the crafting process a lot more comfortable for me to handle.

[@teapots_and]

this is great! i have a dream of making one of these for my future girlfriend if i get one haha (well, it's probably just cause i think my crush would make an amazing pirate/vampire) and this looks like a thorough and beautiful tutorial thank you! i'm saving it for the future:]

[@oddanneout]

Please do lifestyle videos (and by that I mean I want to watch you doing things). Anythings. ❤

[@drhelenloney1426]

I will admit I get very excited when you drop a new tutorial, I learn so much

[@tambriggs]

Thank you for the very easy to follow super cleat tutorial. I'm going to have to be a pirate now! Or a vampire!

[@dannsherstone1037]

I really look forward to your videos. I love to create smaller objects with natural fabrics entirely constructed with hand embroidery stitches. Your discussion here about thread was so important. I like to use mercerized crochet & tatting cotton threads; so many weights and colours! I too use bees wax to help get my thread through the needle as well as a conditioner and stabilizer. I am planning to upcycle some quality clothing and this shirt is very inspiring!

[@Nessi-dances]

Oooo, lovely video! Thank you! My first attempt at an 18th century shirt went fine, but my brain would NOT let me machine sew it. I quite like the construction, and would like more for my daily wardrobe, so I will be attempting them with your method. Thanks again!💜

[@DUNG30NDUCK]

I would've watched this anyway but it was hard to look away with the teal linen on the screen, what a beautiful colour

[@seamrapt]

I have eagerly awaited this video (so much so I would check your channel every so often just to ensure I hadn't missed it...often rewatching older videos) and it does not disappoint. I am very glad to hear you advocate for attaching sleeves while flat; it is So much easier & now I won't feel like I'm taking a shortcut. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, creativity, attention to detail, passion & levity. I'm here for any and all you'd like to share (including as many glove - or whatever sewing - iterations as you'd care to film) & wish you well. Splendid. Thank you.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Thank you! I wish I hadn't mentioned publicly that I was working on a shirt video so early in the process, because this one took WAY longer than expected.

[@lexp6099]

Thank you for taking the time to put all this together. Love all your shirts, especially the turquoise and red ones, and LOVE your leather jacket and summer hat outfits!

[@sidewalkpirate23]

Eeeeeeep. I have been waiting for a new video! Thanks so much. Looove watching them while I sew or embroider.❤ (fellow handsewer here who wants to get into sewing clothes a bit more)

[@flikkeringlightz7472]

The vampire wibes are real~❤

[@stbananastein]

I just want to extend my heartfelt thanks for all thay you do. I have so many of your blog posts bookmarked, especially for making waistcoats

[@melanisticmandalorian]

I will never make one, but really enjoyed watching the tutorial of it. Well done, blouse-man.

[@mildgrooveon]

I am so Sooooooo thankful for this video. I mostly play around handstitching leather, and was lead here by your glove video a while ago. I love learning passively about sewing, and the relaxation this video offered me in a time of need is very appreciated.

[@bacon_sammich2845]

Your videos are excellent and so interesting and informative from both a historical and technical perspective, thank you for sharing such a delightful passion.

[@cynthiadugan858]

Thank you! Saving this one for a reference I can go back to every time I want to make a pirate shirt❤. I have been felling my seams all toward the gusset🤯. Can’t wait till the next shirt so I can try it the other way. Looks so much easier

[@cynthiadugan858]

Have you tried taking apart the foot pedal on your machine and cleaning it out real good? Yes, the tech who looked at it should have done that but don’t blindly trust that they did. As a person who strongly prefers sewing with vintage machines, I have learned the hard way that there are a lot of machine service/repair places that don’t want to mess with vintage so they will tell you that they couldn’t find/fix your problem… hoping you will buy a new one.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

There is no foot pedal, only a knee lever! The guy said he looked in there where the controls are, so I think the problem is the motor.

[@blaiseingram1253]

Fantastic and indeed thorough instructions. I love that you explain the reason for each step/ technique. Knowing the why often sheds more light on the how

[@unrightist]

"The bumpy variety of chest" ❤ and yes having made a shirt from Bernadette Banner's tutorial mixed with another creator who used a deeper neckline it definitely can get risque. I wore it out but with a (modern midbust) corset over the top. Would probably wear something under to go out in it otherwise. Or just let things be free lol.

[@centurycountess4949]

There is a variety of things I love about this video that was both helpful and fascinating, I'm going to try and narrow it down into categories so this comment isn't a novel (I've a bad habit of doing that lol) Firstly this is going to be an extra when i make future shirts for my 18th century character That I portray because seeing the process is much easier then reading the step by step and have no visual references except in writing. secondly I was very relieved when I saw the part about the gusset part because when I made my first 18th century shirt I thought I put the gusset in wrong but now I know I had it right. Thirdly a fun video to watch after a long day while working on one's own sewing project. (Mainly hand basting) which I agree is so much helpful especially in a preview of what the garment pieces looks like conjoined before running it through a machine or hand sewing. :) And lastly a non sewing related comment) I am loving the color changes with the nails, especially the style around 11 minutes in the yellow to black color looked cool.

[@juhiazha9600]

this is random but your voice and general vibe in your tutorials is so relaxing. thanks for making this video. i've made "pirate" shirts from morgan donner and bernadette banner's tutorials, so it would be cool to add another one to my roster!

[@elleneades9421]

This is fantastic. I've sewed several pirate shirts from various patterns and yours makes it clear and easy. So much detail. Thank you!

[@gatheringbaskethomestead9942]

I’ve been waiting for you to finish this video as your work is so meticulous. A little let down that it is machine sewn, since I only hand sew, and I’ve made seven of these. Completely by hand. Happy to hear you will be making another video at some point with hand stitching. I’ll still study this video because I love your work. Thanks for the hard work!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

As you said, no reason any of this can't be hand sewn, I have hate/hate relationship with most of my machines so I end up doing a lot of hand sewing. I sometimes do construction stitches on my shirts with the antique hand crank machine when I just need to get a project done but hand sewing is generally easier than arguing with any of my electric machines. I'm looking forward to some hand-felling soon...

[@mrsgingernoisette]

This is such a treat, I love your videos more than chocolate. Thank you for existing!

[@lydianoack4552]

Ah, perfect, exactly what I needed. I lucked on to a length of wild silk with bamboo print and was going for the "18th ct noble with a taste for the exotic" look.

[@hakudoushinumbernine]

THANK YOU! You have cemented my commitment to different colors and prints with showing the many you've made. It makes me feel okay with my choice. I fell innlove with 1500s mens shirts so i am all for this. Thank you!

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Yay!! Yes, you should sew what YOU want to sew! I love sometimes doing things to be historically accurate, and sometimes mashing the historical shapes and techniques together with inaccurate materials and decorations.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

"You can do whatever you want. Except sewing the heart patch without basting it. Don't do that. If you do that, it will turn out wonky and you'll get stabbed by lots of pins." I generally spend too much time arguing with most of my machines to bother with that, I'll just hand-sew it.... I do love the diamond idea though, it's like doing a facing just for the point of the cut. I'll have to try that the next time I'm trying to reinforce a slit... And seriously, I'm always asking myself why I don't automatically add armpit gussets in every single shirt or dress I make. They make the fit SO MUCH BETTER, and can even accommodate a bit of extra bumpy chest when the measurements lied again. I pretty much always mark my stitch lines, otherwise everything turns out wonky, I apparently have not got the skill to pin or sew stuff properly without the lines, so I don't put seam allowances on my patterns I generate. Seam allowance is negotiable and there's a lot of wiggle room, but stitch lines are important. That pin through the corners then leve it there till you get another pin in it, that's my preferred method these days for lining up my corners properly. I discovered with my tighter fitting (but still roomy) tunic shirts that the side slit at the hip has to go up to about two inches below where I bend, otherwise it catches on my thighs when I sit down. I'm not sure how that applies to being tucked into pants though... things to consider. I may draw an angry face on torn armpits from now on, thank you for that...

[@evapainter8692]

I THOROUGHLY enjoyed this video!

[@rufferstuff9148]

Lots of fiddly work, but the results are worth it. A beautiful shirt. The speed issue might mean the contacts in the foot pedal need to be cleaned. Not sure if the repair person thought to check that. Hope you are able to get it fixed. Thanks.

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Thank you! There is no pedal, the machine just has a knee lever, and I think the problem is in the motor.

[@rufferstuff9148]

@@vincentbriggs1780 The lever could be the issue then. As you press the control (foot pedal or knee lever) it sends increasing power to the motor making it run faster. There can be corrosion on the copper plates or soot on the graphite plates in the rheostat causing issues. There can be other issues, but that is where I would look first for a speed problem. Hope this helps. I have trouble explaining things sometimes and either give too little or too much information. Thanks again for the tutorial.

[@radkagajdikova9118]

Sewing machine doesn't go slow anymore - personal experience - the machine is totally ok, it is the foot pedal that is worn/burned. Try to change the foot pedal if it helps. Also, thank you very much for the video and the blog post, just washing my fabric to try mi first shirt.

[@theresaanndiaz3179]

I was really happy to see a new video by you. I enjoy your projects so much.

[@jaxtelford807]

Brilliant!!!! Absolutely brilliant!!!!! And inspiring! Did I write that down? Nah, she'll be right! Oh! Hang on, what would pterrible dinosaur do? They'd check!!!!! Praise that I did! Thank you, Vincent. May your scrap ribbons never tangle and your fabric stash increase❤.

[@emilyweeksstudio]

i would love to watch the handsewn version of this as well!!!

[@spiral477]

Commenting before I watch so I don't forget

[@antoniocozzi6234]

Very very very well done, we learn from mistakes and from other people how to create and design clothing of the past which is more durable and made of natural fibre. Thankyou for this vlog, keep up the good work.

[@notsomething7561]

You're back!!!

[@vincentbriggs1780]

I never went anywhere, I'm just slow, and this one took a very long time!

[@maniwyatt6559]

I know it's alot of work and intensity to create a video but your instructions is very good maybe you would consider doing videos more often.

[@idasvenning3892]

Maybe don't pressure creators to push out more content, especially when they told you in the thing that the next one on this topic is still far away? I love Vincent's videos but they are obviously a lot of work and none of us know his situation better than he does.

[@emilylindstrom724]

This is an amazing video. I can't even comprehend how difficult it must have been to film most of this. Thank you for making it.

[@dragonbrat]

I cannot say how much I love your videos! I adore how much detail you go into, do you do historical restorations? It wouldn't surprise me if you do, you're so thorough.

[@evawsee8327]

YES! a new upload - and wow I instantly go crazy! YEEES! I needed this! Thank you!

[@OnServantsWings]

Thank you! I've been in 18th cent. shirts for the past year or so and love them. However, I had just a few things in their making that continued to be annoyingly tricky. This video pointed out every one of the. I look forward to my next shirt so I can incorporate this new information and avoid the weak spots.

[@EugeneHoverhand]

You might be interested in traditional Cluny lace in England. Places like those are slowly being lost. They still use the original historical machines which have patterns and finishes you can't get from modern lace.

[@TheMagnoliaWitch]

❤ ❤ ❤ Love an excellent shirt tutorial! (Also, not historically accurate, but I have found it very handy to baste or run gathering threads with water soluble thread so I don't have to worry about missing bits of it when I'm done stitching.)

[@vincentbriggs1780]

Water soluble thread??!! I had no idea such a thing existed!

[@kristinabathory8870]

Always a treat when you upload. Good to see you!

[@quicksilvertears921]

I love your videos so much. Your personality is playful and fun. I enjoyed watching your fashion show at the end. ❤❤❤

[@carriebtc]

I love the detailed work on what you do. Thank you for sharing the beautiful craftsmanship of your work. Looking forward to seeing more. Cheers

[@marieeaton-smith5168]

Wonderful video, thank you. There is an online vintage sewing machine group called Victorian Sweatshop Forum, and there are members in Canada. If you reach out to the forum, I am sure they will be delighted to help you to sort out the problems with both your machines. Your singer is really lovely and worth fixing; so many people love that Singer model, and I am sure they would help with your Pfaff too (I think yours is a Pfaff?).

[@elizabethpeters4805]

Great video. Thanks so much. I do a fair amount of hand basting prior to machine stitching as I find it makes for a much better finish.

[@hrani]

I hate dealing with pins so I hand baste everything going under the machine if I can't just hold it put while sewing!

[@elizabethpeters4805]

@@hrani hand basting is often much more accurate than using pins.