Above the clouds - A journey to the highest hut in Europe, Unguided

When someone got airlifted out of the hut at 2AM, we knew this place is no joke.
For years I wanted to visit Capanna Margherita, famous for being the highest mountain hut in the Alps, perched atop a 4,554-meter mountain, Signalkuppe - part of the Monte Rosa group of mountains.
If you include our acclimatization climb, this journey took us 3 days to reach.
We decided to take an ambitious route to Capanna Margherita, traversing 3 peaks over 4,000 high. Corno Nero, Ludwigshoeh and Parrotspitze.
Staying at this hut isn't for the faint-hearted (literally).
Even with all the days we had adjusting to the altitude, we still didn't acclimatize properly and struggled badly the night we were there.
Even with all its ups and downs, I still count this as one of the most incredible locations I ever visited in the Alps to date
My links:
► Patreon - / traintosummit
► Instagram - / traintosummit
► Our gear - www.lighterpac...

[@TraintoSummit]

Want to see what gear we use in the Alps? Check out www.lighterpack.com/r/h1g8ty

[@kenjiroyoshizawa8498]

Just wanted to say I recently discovered your channel and love your content! From the extremes you both go through, the commentary, POV and drone footage...amazing stuff. Keep it up and looking forward to the next one! Seriously underrated channel :)

[@TraintoSummit]

Thank you for your comment and for following our journey. It makes us really happy when people enjoy the videos 🙏

[@MD.79]

A proper and gradual acclimatization is the main ingredient to avoid AMS that in many cases can be very dangerous!

[@keangwooichoo6138]

I heard there are pills for attitude sickness

[@Cptnbond]

I agree about the importance of height acclimatization. Many years ago, I spent two weeks ascending multiple peaks and sleeping low for two weeks in the Saas-Fee area. After that, we went to Chamonix and Mt Blanc - we felt pretty good during the climb there, but many folks came and struggled enormously to reach the peak at 4809 meters. It's much more enjoyable when you are fit. Cheers.

[@TraintoSummit]

I completely agree😅Aside from acclimatising properly, one of the things I learned works best is to wake up early and go slow. Thanks for watching!

[@nick050387]

Hey, Enjoying video, great content! Just question simple really. Not really I am any mountaineering expert but in any scenario how this rope between two of you stopping fall? I mean she goes you go and other way around..? Just trying to understand how you can stop a fall of 80kg x 2 or 3 due to fall impact. I really trying to get some info not being bully. Or this is just for mind comfort and reality is one go both go? Again wonderful video!

[@TraintoSummit]

No worries, I'm happy to explain. It's the tension in the rope and the distance between climbers that's the trick for stopping a fall. If you have 10 meters (or more) between 2 climbers and the rope is kept fairly tight between you as one climber falls in a crevasse, the other one can then act as the anchor by getting low, moving their bodyweight back, jamming the crampons and the ice axe in and stopping the other person's fall, as long as there is tension on the rope. There's no sock on the system as the person falls, thus making it fairly easy to stop. We practice this in crevasse rescue by actually jumping down a slope and it works like a charm. The problem is if the rope is loose on the ground. If that happens then you're screwed due to the shock load on the system. Another helpful thing is to tie knots in the rope, this can help by having the knot stop in the lip of the crevasse as the person falls, essentially stopping the fall. It is harder though to perform a rescue after with the knots on the rope (but not impossible). The last thing I'll add is that this system is for crossing glaciers. When you see us on a ridge and I'm holding coils and the rope is at a short distance between us, that is a different technique for stopping a slip (usually the more experienced climber takes this role) - this is a mountaineering technique when you have to move fast and are not protecting every single section. This technique doesn't always work but it's a good precaution. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!

[@bensumw]

Surprised you guys didn't summit Zumsteinspitze which is a 4K neighbour peak of Signalkuppe on your way down the next morning as that is very common.

[@DennisDinges]

Has anyone investigated why no one is attempting to climb the east side of Monte Rosa from Macugnaga? Is it that undoable?

[@wishdarkstalkaz4050]

Just by chance stumbled on your channel...absolutely amazing. New subscriber added & you are giving me inspiration for my own future adventures...thank you. ATB .Wish.

[@TraintoSummit]

Thank you and best of luck in your adventures 🙏

[@hanzlahnisar1373]

Absolutely amazing. How did you book the huts?

[@MehrSpaamSpaHabenHaben]

As always: Beautiful Coverage!

[@chillbryan]

Hey big fan of your video! Do u have a link of the route u used? I would like to do the same hike as you guys. Thanks!

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks for watching. The route is detailed in the guidebook: 4000 m peaks of the Alps. Normal and classic routes by Marco Romelli and Valentino Ciridini. Definitely recommend that guidebook for info. I also used Alltrails as a GPS guide, the route name is: Parrotspitze - Punta Gnifetti - Zumsteinspitze. I used that GPS file just as a guide since you never know the state of the glacier. Hope this helps!

[@chillbryan]

@@TraintoSummit Thanks for the response. What was your startpoint?

[@TraintoSummit]

@@chillbryan The three peaks traverse

[@mariusbogdan8917]

LOL. in 3 days I will try to make Zumstein - Dufour - Nordend. The highest I wa at Grossglockner with 1 night before at the Hut located at 3400., but I was okay. We will stay 1 night at Gnifetti and 2 nights at Margherita. I never had altitude sickness and hope that pill will resolve it. I found your channel 1 hour ago and already love it.

[@TraintoSummit]

@@mariusbogdan8917 That sounds like an awesome day out! Distracție plăcută 👊🏻

[@laurabooth1252]

great video, we followed u guys i think a few days later (13.7) and were the only group to reach margherita hut that day (storms). it was nice having the hut so quiet (basically empty) as the altitude up there is tough. great filming of Parrotspitze 😊 also to see the view! we had clouds and lots of lightning the whole nt.

[@TraintoSummit]

I would absolutely love to be at that hut during a lightning storm, that sounds epic (from within the safety of the hut😅) I'm glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

[@laurabooth1252]

@@TraintoSummit true, it was pretty epic :)

[@SimoneIngaramo]

if you call that a hotel you a have completely messed up perception of the mountains

[@vitaliypidhirskyy]

WOW! guys! you are FANTASTIC! i wish i you all the best and beautifull summits! Its a crime, that your channel has so few subscribers and views - so i subscribe, and will watch all your videos!

[@TraintoSummit]

I'm glad you're enjoying the videos - thanks for the support!

[@alexshraib]

All the respect! Difficult route and great video! Which date you did it? I am planning to be here during the second half of August and wanted to ask how much snow is going to be above 3000 meters?

[@TraintoSummit]

We did it last year around mid-June. There will always be snow there even in mid August, just the quality of it is not great due to the heat .. Have your crevasse rescue with you and be careful with the snow bridges. Thanks for watching the video!

[@Roberto123valdez]

Wow nice adventure mate! The Ecuadorian Andes are waiting for you!

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks Roberto! Funnily enough, we actually had planned a trip to Ecuador this year, Antisana and Chimborazo were the goals (guided this time). In the end, the flights and total cost got out of hand sadly so we had to postpone it. Both Viv and I are coming there with the first chance we get 🙌

[@pakkhumwan377]

I always wanted to go to Capanna Margherita. Thanks for posting this! To any solo mountaineer out there like myself, can I join your team in the summer of 2024? :P

[@TraintoSummit]

Thank you for watching and for commenting! The 'Alpinism for beginners' page on Facebook is a great place to find a mountaineering buddy 😉

[@rizon72]

I see something like this and the first thing which comes to mind is how do they keep it supplied?

[@365tage9]

Nice video. In your videos, if you give informations about your preparation (like finding trails, accommodation arrangements in between of your videos) that can spice up as a whole.

[@TraintoSummit]

Great tip, I'll think about how I can include this more. Thanks for watching!

[@rinohals]

What an amazing climb and stay. No sleep and exhausted ok. But man, what an experience. I so envy you guys. Thanks for bringing me with you.

[@TraintoSummit]

It was a beautiful trip. Thanks for watching Rino!

[@marcellodigiorgi9634]

Can u pls repeate what the guide suggested you guys to do before climbing Capanna Margherita? not clear what your girl says at 22:29. thanks

[@TraintoSummit]

Viv's hard to understand sometimes 😂 The guide suggested to spend 2 nignts at the Gnifetti hut acclimatising. Thanks for watching!

[@katiirabbi]

Where are your sunglasses from?? They are so cool looking and i love that they wrap all the way around

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks for watching! The brand is Vallon

[@torome1812]

Non è un hotel

[@HolgerGruenewald]

Very nice pictures. I did a similar tour from Rifugio Mantova to Zumsteinspitze, the neighbour summit to Capanna Margherita.

[@paulfidler3710]

Great advice about staying at Gnifetti (sorry about the spelling) twice. Perhaps doing one of the peaks then coming back!

[@kastanjainen]

Looks beautiful!

[@maritagardener6199]

Proud of you two! Your energy and enthusiasm to reach the summits despite not having good night sleep is amazing 🤩

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks Marita. The Italian hut breakfasts powered Viv throughout the trip😂

[@TraintoSummit]

18:43 Margherita's ghost?

[@thomask5434]

How to they get food up there for so many people? By helicopter every day? If you need two days on foot? or is there a street that nobody tells us about and nobody uses because it destroys the illusion? Anyway. Great video!

[@davemacleod9623]

very amusing....

[@torome1812]

Non è un hotel

[@TraintoSummit]

But that clickbait 😍

[@hwntwww]

same with me in the Cabane de Bertol, no sleep, nausea, headache

[@HolgerGruenewald]

Right. Cabane de Bertol is a nightmare, the tour up there from Cabane des Vignettes brought me to my Limits. But the next day, the Tour to Tete Blanche was fantastic.

[@wolfvonderr4487]

You deserve so many more followers and views; your content is excellent, and both your personalities and friendship/love is amazing to witness.

[@TraintoSummit]

Thank you for the kind words🙏 And thanks for watching!

[@paddymalley8077]

I remember 'acclimatising' in the Balmenhorn hut (couldn't afford the gneffiti)

[@TraintoSummit]

The Balmenhorn hut is a great idea and alternative!

[@annalovegrove5063]

So impressive guys - you wouldn’t catch me on that ridge 😅👏🏻👏🏻

[@TraintoSummit]

I saw the video of you climbing that cliff in Brazil, you could totally do that ridge Anna! 😂

[@robertomeneghetti6215]

I went with friends to the Capanna Margherita from the Rifugio Gnifetti, where we slept, and through the three mentioned peaks on the way back, forty years ago. There was much more snow as now, as I see!

[@TraintoSummit]

It's an amazing route and a very impressive hut! Sad that the snow levels changed from when you were there...

[@MarkSchrader80]

Great Video.👍 I spend a night there on 13.07.2023 on our 5-day Tour.

[@TraintoSummit]

It's an incredible location... Thanks for watching!

[@blueshadow3794]

Beautiful trip, i'm sorry you guys had a rough time with the altitude. I'm happy that you are ok!

[@TraintoSummit]

It was a great trip overall. Thanks for watching bro!

[@MJBold_1]

This is amazing and congrats for summiting! Absolutely love it and to see it in it's entirety. Planning to attempt it myself next year too.

[@TraintoSummit]

It's an amazing feat of engineering. The hut infrastructure in the Alps is just something else. I could make a whole KZbin channel on visiting mountain huts in the Alps 😂 Enjoy your trip there and thanks for watching!

[@david1clutterbuck]

What time of year did you go?

[@TraintoSummit]

We went end of June this year

[@cameliamariacristea4836]

Respect copii! Greu , cu probleme , dar ati reușit! Sunt mândră de voi!❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@TraintoSummit]

Mersi!

[@andrewgardener1668]

“Wouldn’t be a trip of ours without ‘strong’ ambition” - 😂 understatement of the year! Love what you guys do ❤

[@TraintoSummit]

So true😂 This whole year felt like a strong ambition. I don't know what that says about next year hahaha

[@GuiseppeWM]

Awesome vid man! How was the condition of the glaciers?

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks for watching! The glaciers were in a perfect condition. After falling last year in a crevasse when a snow bridge collapsed under me, I decided to only go to the Alps at the end of June - it gets way too hot in July & August

[@jiggzdee7017]

You Didn't join any tour group in this hike?

[@TraintoSummit]

No, we did the tour ourselves for this one

[@jiggzdee7017]

wow amazing.@@TraintoSummit

[@TraintoSummit]

@@jiggzdee7017 Thanks for watching!

[@AbigailGracex8]

Beautiful scenery!

[@moenchkoerper]

very well done in all matters. Cheers for taking us with you

[@TraintoSummit]

Thank you for watching!

[@madankhalingrai1013]

Wow 😮Great video 🫡✌️✌️

[@TraintoSummit]

Thank you!

[@keangwooichoo6138]

Three questions : 1) where and how to use toilets 2) is food airlifted to the cabin daily? 3) how to wash the plates

[@alessandro-zy3gz]

The toilet is a simple hole, no water for the guest, only bottle water or beer/wine. In the kitchen they have water for cooking and cleaning

[@keangwooichoo6138]

@@alessandro-zy3gz but the hole will fill up after 100 years of poop

[@baitz5870]

i love your guys cahnnel! can you maybe do a video showing us how to afford do these trips? maybe not this one but i am saying in general if i want to start out with the hobby and dont know how to find cheap flights/train rides and a place to stay.

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks for watching! I plan to make one next year that will cover the subject. We buy our flights in the beginning of the year for the summer period when the flights are cheap. We tend to not eat out or go to the pub on the weekends when we're back home, and all of our savings/money essentially is going into these trips. I find that if you prioritise your hobby and work hard, you can make it happen💪

[@baitz5870]

@@TraintoSummit Okay thanks.

[@TrekkingAndMeditation]

Great experience and great video! I hope to be able to go there next year!

[@TraintoSummit]

The trip is totally worth it. Thanks for watching!

[@GainysLife]

What Month did you went?

[@TraintoSummit]

End of June this year 😊 Thanks for watching 🙌🏼

[@lachlanbrown2045]

Love it, one of my fav ones so far. The first peak looked hectic coming down. Sounded like a brutal night at Margarita, but a good story!

[@TraintoSummit]

You'd of loved that hut bro. Still can't believe they managed to build that there!

[@kalimo336]

Awesome Video!

[@TraintoSummit]

Thanks for watching!