Part three: How to recycle 3-D resin printed supports

[@Mr.GoodBarr_Makes]

If it weren’t for how unfriendly uncrued resin is I’d say leave it, looks cool as heck in the model pockets

[@thericepotato5847]

Wouldn't it be better to cure then drill?

[@polygongames2102]

The uncured resin will Crack the model over time if left in. The home should have been added digitally before printing

[@Mr.GoodBarr_Makes]

@@polygongames2102 learn something new everyday! Thanks for the knowledge

[@Pseud0nymTXT]

question, why not blast the entire thing with uv to cure the uncured resin?

[@Izzy-cp8yt]

​@@Pseud0nymTXT it's possible the resin is too thick for the uv to penatrate that far. With my uv craft resin, too much pigment inhibits deep curing because the light can't reach it the center.

[@nibiruisnear3963]

let the drill bit do the work in the future. hold the drill straight and don’t push down, just give slight downward pressure to avoid cracking. great videos btw

[@jacobpeterson8270]

You can do that and go in reverse so the drill bit doesn’t auto feed and crack the plastic.

[@InvisibleAvenger]

A glass & tile bit may also be a good alternative to a standard drill bit

[@Monkeyman12534]

Or he could leave a drain hole in the model

[@TomCee53]

Brad point bits might work week, if you have them.

[@ItzaJerm]

@@Monkeyman12534 this was my thought my slicer program has a automatic hole puncher button lol and it makes wicked awesome drain holes and will give you the plug piece to print to plug the hole later

[@jacksoncarter6352]

For brittle materials you want to use high speed and very little pressure, this way the bit won't bite deep and tear out chunks

[@manjeetgill1]

There is a method where you place the object on sand to help dissipate the vibrations. Try that

[@handlesrtwitterdontbelivethem]

of skin

[@joshbarr118]

You can cut glass if you submerse it in water, i imagine other brittle things will work

[@Bazzdiver]

You can also modify your cutting edge of the drill bit for more of a scraping then cutting. Google for „drill bit brass angle“ to see pictures

[@MozkarLozada]

This is great thsnk you guys

[@B143DP]

When slicing the model, just add a drain hole and print the matching plug. Makes it so you get VERY limited amounts of resin stuck inside to begin with and then you can just plug it after its cleaned and cured. The print can crack and rarely explode when it is sealed in this manor because of the off-gassing that occurs with reason, it not having a place to escape causes these cracks and in very rare situations a little explosion of the model flying apart.

[@DannyEastes]

He says in the video that he forgot to do that

[@B143DP]

@@DannyEastes Yeah but I was further expanding upon it so people who are getting into the hobby and what not can be more well informed and explain the reasons why it occurs.

[@williamdunn4811]

I have worked in aviation for 10 years with a great deal of work with resin materials. Here are some tips to help keep the resin fracturing like that next time. Use high rpm and little to no pressure. You essentially want the drill bit to sand the material down instead of cutting. Add water as a cutting lubricant to help keep heat down.

[@HF-cx4wl]

cool tip!

[@100GTAGUY]

A 60° pointed bit for plastics/resins would also help quite a bit too.

[@George-MCX10R]

Better yet he could have used a glass drill bit instead of a standard twist bit.

[@williamdunn4811]

@@George-MCX10R We use PCD (Diamond coating) cutters for composite materials that have carbon fiber reinforced epoxy. There is carbide which works well also. A normal highspeed steel drill bit can work for small projects but yes having the right drill bit for the job makes a lot more sense.

[@swordguy8]

When I started out, an old mechanic I worked with said to start the hole in forward, then switch the drill into reverse and let the heat do the work. I've done it ever since and I think it works great.

[@AkhmenHotep]

I would recommend adding drainage holes to your model in your slicer so you can avoid having to drill in when it is half full of resin, less chance of getting small particulate matter in your resin when you put it back in the bottle

[@megaxecutioner2613]

Yes!!! That's what I was looking for.

[@iKidTutor]

i was exactly thinking the same. and you can even close the hole dependent on the size

[@poultrypants]

He said he forgot to

[@Infernoblade1010]

110x easier

[@gabbysparks3504]

Do yall people just not pay attention to the videos you watch or something? He literally said he forgot to, meaning that was his original intention.

[@Loucfr]

If I’m printing molds, I usually shell the model to 5mm and print it solid. Saves so much resin and doesn’t leave a mess.

[@quickcad2573]

Lots of mistakes but he sure learns a lot! Even answered a couple questions I've often wondered. Bravo!

[@crazy808ish]

Make a video where you throw away the supports. Even if you grab them back out of the trash later. It'll boost your user engagement for sure lol

[@abovewongart]

You're evil but genius

[@helghannationalist9798]

Dumping them into the ocean would probably gain more views tho

[@vikkstar01]

@@helghannationalist9798 how about feeding it directly to a fish

[@NotMe-ej9yz]

​@@vikkstar01 they wont be findin nothin but a body at 42 Wallaby Way, Sydney 💀

[@j45002]

That's what they do anyway. Might as well film it

[@gustavodossantos7339]

You could drill with a full submersion in water. Works with ceramics

[@bartthatcher5799]

Use an Acrylic drill bit. It has a pointy tip and is made to cut into hard plastic and shouldn't blow out as other drill bits do.

[@tyrantosaurex]

I've had you popup in my feed a few times, as my first exposure to 3-D resin printing and at that it being you recycling it creatively and following that up thoroughly with content I'm now absolutely enthralled.

[@sykelogik]

Use a 1/16 drill bit to start, and a larger size after to get all the fluids out. You'll never break your resin again

[@369ZIR]

Thank you. Someone that knows their shit. 😂😂😂 i read these other comments and it’s hilarious

[@gilapo27]

3d printing is one of the coolest hobies i've seen. I want to get a printer myself so i can craft perches for my bird

[@famulu3794]

Use a drill bit that are designed for drilling into acrylic in plastic. The pitch is more more of a point, and the cutter Edge scrapes rather than Diggs in like a wood drill does. Which is more aggressive and pulls the material away which is not what you want with plastic. You wanted to scrape the material away. Good luck

[@ZeranZeran]

translucent green is the most beautiful color on earth. Beautiful

[@doublehuman94]

Did the paintbrush at the end cure with all the resin in it or did you somehow save it?

[@snark894]

probably washed it out quickly

[@kalebpiper8107]

The light likely cured the resin, but he was just trying to reattach the broken corner.

[@Camromulus]

Eh it's a paintbrush, they're like $2.

[@ThePigeon5734]

@@snark894 I imagine so, yes

[@BunchyGearsGuy]

I use some scrap paintbrushes regularly to paint on resin like this, often times I just wipe the resin out of the brush with a paper towel as much as I can. Surprisingly it doesn't really cure in the bristles, been using the same brush for about 3 months now

[@Daniel-ou4fb]

Wear eye protection around that UV lamp.

[@e-du8xn]

so that your 3d product does not crack when you drill, just start drilling from the smallest drill and increase it gradually to the desired size is a good tactic when you drill Р.S. I don’t know if many people use it, but in Russia they often use it and this is the basis of the basics :)

[@BNIRc]

Use a pointed drill bit specifically for Plastics you won't get the cracking👍

[@seriftheskeleton1423]

A mask would look perfect in this transparent green- Lovely color!

[@abovewongart]

I've done it

[@ducksonarock]

Try using a drill bit for glass. I've never dried resin but it seems like it would work.

[@blakebaumeister3859]

if you've never done it, what would make it "seem" like it would work to you?

[@rcautoball]

​@@blakebaumeister3859 Because resin breaks like glass? It was just an idea. I certainly don't think it's a bad one.

[@blakebaumeister3859]

@@rcautoball well it’s not like glass, and it is a bad idea. A much better idea is to simply model in a hole before you print it.

[@rcautoball]

@@blakebaumeister3859 Lol. Okay, dude.

[@ethanclark4797]

You draining the uncured resin from the print reminded me I once got a 3D printed d&d mini off Etsy, the guy didn't drain the uncured resin from the inside and because I didn't know much about 3D printing at the time I thought it would be fine, the one particularly hot day it burst or something in my bag.

[@thebonapettit9828]

Any slicer has options to add drain holes to the model, even print the cap for it for you to plug it when printed after draining it.

[@sax7760]

Drill it in water to prevent breakage. Works with ceremic and glass, so it might work with resin, too. It has something to do with water tension or some crap like that.

[@namewithheld7835]

This is a video about What NOT TO DO and how your print should NOT look like.

[@raylenn4444]

I doubt your claims.

[@BlueFox61]

Armchair expert

[@TheAceTroubleshooter]

Right because someone with little to no knowledge is gonna know that... Its usefull information if you dont want to just toss away the print after a mistake like not adding a drain hole... Or how to fix a broken part.

[@bobograndman]

@@BlueFox61lmao that implies this is some high skill Labour or something. It’s not. 3d printing is extremely accessible and as someone with experience 3d printing for nearly a decade, they’re right this print has a lot of mistakes.

[@BlueFox61]

@@bobograndman the jokes write themselves. Here is your armchair expert medal too 💺🛠🥉

[@Antassium]

I've fixed resin prints that way. Works surprisingly well!

[@rexor400]

My dude you can add holes to hollow prints so you won't have to drill into it 😂

[@netorinetorare]

exactly, this is a very bad approach ngl and some ppl who might be interested to resin printing might think that this is the norm *edit, not to mention how parallel to the surface the model is

[@naomitibbetts9293]

He said he forgot to put a drain hole

[@t2wave]

Well, he did say he forgot to put a hole to drain it. Persumably he adds one normally.

[@RScottMelton]

I have found that a step bit works much better than a high-speed twist drill when trying to avoid cracking or splitting in hard plastics.

[@creeperboy1858]

In case anyone is interested: Part 1: kzbin.infou8ZV5JMglAI?feature=share Part 2: kzbin.infoLO_MExzwmzM?feature=share Part 3: kzbin.infoLaGAbh4-Wfw?feature=share Part 4: kzbin.infoPmCTQ1AvHQg?feature=share Part 5: kzbin.info-_Sne6PkQFk?feature=share Part 6: kzbin.infoHfhk336xkRU?feature=share

[@carson2889]

This guy needs to just make full length videos at this point. 6 part short is absurd

[@sanpepsiman1277]

God bless you

[@bozscaggzz7475]

I recommend using drill bits that are made for plastics. They have a very pointed angle at the tip. That will help avoid cracks and chipping.

[@rickeykoga2312]

I literally got a 3D resin printer because of your videos! Love your stuff and its been soooo fun

[@ThePiedcool]

Always use a pilot hole when drilling ! Tint bit first then bigger bit ! Hope this helps for other drilling ventures ! Reduce all the dangers of drilling and get a cleaner straighter hole

[@369ZIR]

Tip, use a smaller drill bit to create a small “pilot hole”. Then use gradually work up to your preferred size. It will not crack every time. On any material.

[@100GTAGUY]

So a fun lil tip, theres a variety of drill bits made specifically for drilling plastics and resins. Now im quite rusty on the nomenclature of drill bit designs, but they have a more acute tip angle and different fluted channels which puts less stress on the parts to limit heat and deformation. Once you try one and trust the tool to do the work, its like drilling cool butter.

[@MarekBury]

Pro tip. When drilling in half-empty objects from plastic or reisin, when you are close to drilling into the infill, switch to reverse gear to get into it gently.

[@Ashen.Elixer]

If you use a couple pieces of masking tape, it should help with cracking, in the future! Same gist with ceramic, too

[@Florinutzzzzz]

Key for a successful drilled hole in any material that is susceptible to cracks or chips is to start with the smallest bit and progress in steps to the biggest you need. Is more time consuming, yes, but that way you cannot fail

[@thomaslindroos1667]

For the drilling proces I would advice reversely. High rpm low torque to not shatter it. However be sure to use a "split point" drill because drilling a 5mm hole without a pilot hole needs some good pressure and thats what we want to avoid. It can be any cheapo split point dril bit. Game changer

[@revenger2111]

Tip for your drill's, using a stone very slightly dull the cutting edge's. It will make drilling a bit slower. But also stopg the drill from suddenly grapping the material als you pass through

[@AD12343]

if you have flat surfaces you want to print, you can try adding a tampered disc or square at the bottom instead of support (depending on the size of the object, use multiple tomake it easier to remove). make them as thick as the bottom layers add up to, afterward sand them down. i find this leaves a much crimper edge (assuming you want one on the supported side as well)

[@JingleStic]

Normally you add drain holes to the model before printing

[@perfectstranger1152]

To remove tearout run the drill at a higher RPM and do whatever you can to stabilize the setup, while still feeding slowly. Hope this helps.

[@Dan_Murphy]

You can make the holes in chitubox so you don’t need to drill them. When drilling resin you want high speed and no force. Let the drill do the work. You don’t want it to grab or you’ll get a shattered part. Dremels are well suited for the job.

[@sail4819]

Drill at the highest speed your machine can do, and go slow, no excessive pressure! It won't break!

[@pr0xZen]

If you drill in resins and plastics quite often, get a set of drill bits for acrylic. They're quite expensive but definitely worth it. If a set is out of your price range, buy good quality single ones in the sizes you need, when you need them. Good quality ones, at least above really small sizes which very easily break, will last you a lifetime if you treat them well and only use them on acrylics, resins and other plastics. Csrbon fibers and other extremely hard and abbrasive additives can dull them a bit, but good ones can be recut very many times. It's an otherwise uncommon cut profile with unforgiving precision requirements, so unless you're really a pro with pro grade equipment, it's best to leave that to qualified, experienced professionals. Doing just one has significant fixed cost overhead if you need to mail them out to get it fixed, so doing at least a few at a time is preferable. But then again, chopped fiber reinforced plastics are usually quite hardy and tough so you can usually avoid this whole recutting business by using more regular drill bits on those particular parts. Just go super light on the pressure with regular bits, and be patient, just let the bit scrape across the surface instead of digging in. That's kinda what proper "acrylic and plastic" drill bits actually to, but vastly more effective and precisely.

[@imsohungrysgt9458]

Crazy? I was crazy once. They locked me in a room. A rubber room. A rubber room with rats. And rags make me crazy. Crazy? I was crazy once

[@YuriFurry]

use a plastic spachelor on the build plate. The metal spachelor is usually harder than the build plate and scratches it. The scratches will slowly add up and destroy the build plate. A plastic spachelor is wofter than any metal. It is more work but your build plate will never break

[@liberity]

This chemical process called photopolymerization, and it's a chain growth polymerization process based on the resin's reaction to UV light

[@brosephchillaxatron5440]

Ive found that for more geometric/non "organic" shapes, its better to build directly off of the plate. Just gave to design a flared base so it doesnt pulled in to the messy goop. And have drain holes at hollow areas so it doesnt get sucked to hard. Hard sucking may cause all that work to go to waste as we know

[@error-un3fo]

When your drilling step up sizes like 2mm, 4mm, 6mm, you will be less likely to break it and you save your drill bits and you get to use the small bits you never get to use 😊

[@chanakasenbury7012]

Also, use some oil to lube up the drill point. It sounds like it would make it slip, but it helps. Or you can try rubbing bar soap onto your bit.

[@dynamicdoggyduo]

"you don't wanna chip it, so go very, very slow-" **b r e a k s**

[@DidWeDoThat-]

One thing that will help with drilling as well would be securing your work. You can hold it by hand but it is alot easier to be gentle with a drill if you have your work secured in a vise or with some clamps to a table.

[@lionjezztv]

Basics with drills : do a pre-hole with a very tiny version of drill and then do the true hole with the size you want so it don't broke, it's a very basic tips

[@sparkywires]

For soft materials you can run a drill backwards so it doesn't break.

[@Renvil_]

BTW a good tip for drilling in fragile materials. Put on some tape on top before drilling. It will help the drill bit not snag on the outer lip of the hole as easily.

[@disownedgamer]

Drill it with the bit and resin underwater it removes all friction and reduces risk of cracking

[@brianaggson1074]

A plex drill bit would help a lot. Pretty cool stuff though!

[@Geequed]

Get a small vise and try a cobalt drill bit. Use coolant (water is fine). Drill a pilot hole with a very small drill first, then drill your hole. Let the drill work it's way into the material...don't apply any pressure at first...let it cut into the resin. There are alot of different drill tip angles and shapes. I've had the best success with steep sharpening angles and/or spur-point drill bits, depending on how big of a hole I'm drilling. Another tip, is to put a piece of tape over the pilot hole before drilling the final size..prevents the resin from cracking...and not s rubber tape or anything like that...painters tape or something similar. Good luck! 👍🏻

[@meusana3681]

Ok as a machinist. You can put a little piece of cloth under your drillbit, this keeps it from walking and it makes the hole ACTUALLY round...go watch a slowmo of a 2 flute drillbit, they walk in a triangle putting lateral force on the part.

[@CNNBlackmailSupport]

You should try a masonry bit or a tile bit. Not just bits that do masonry or tile, but the ones designed specifically for masonry or tile. The tile bits arent twisted down the entire length like regular bits. They have a very stable spin that reduces pressure if you arent applying 100% perfectly straight force. The tips are only a shallow half turn, so they function more like a router bit than a standard wood or metal drill bit. They work EXTREMELY well on things that can shatter easily. The masonry one has wings at the tip, so they probably aren't going to work very well, but it may surprise you.

[@mohammadrauf8360]

If you are using chitubox, there is a feature where you can add some holes in your mold or your model so you can drain the their remaining resin out of your model

[@maxavcin4462]

Pro tip: If you drill at the maximum speed you will minimize the chance of shattering.

[@AnRPGslime]

Such a pretty green color

[@michaelgray958]

another tip for drilling is start with a much smaller bit then move up to the size you want.

[@Vanchouu]

*"With a UV flashlight, i blast it"* Man, I'm having Dying Light nostalgy right now

[@andresfelipewieczorek4878]

To prevent chiping you need to drill on reverse and the heat does the job. Works on acrylic sheet too

[@Para-tc5uv]

For plastics and other brittles High Speed Slow Feed. And use a smaller drill bit as a guide hole

[@jakefromstatefarm8010]

You need something to clamp the piece down, the movement on top of the drill bit wobbling around will make it more likely to crack. Also there are bits for masonry/tile that would probably work a lot better on a hard resin like this (I would imagine”

[@Gallagher068]

I just use Chitubox Pro and it lets me add drain holes pre print, which is alot better for resin prints anyways as you add the holes in locations to allow the resin in the tank to flow without creating suction. it even saves the "plug" to perfectly fit back into the hole after the print. My Elegoo came with 1 year subscription for it but it's so good I might reup it when it runs out, or just buy another Elegoo printer....

[@Creamy_Bacon]

Great job on not chipping it 👍

[@gammaprysem]

May want to start making drainholes in the slicer

[@goodboneboy]

Heat up the resin just a bit with the heat gun before drilling it will make it less brittle and will reduce the chance of cracking and breaking

[@soilder570]

If a KZbin short needs more than 1 video, let alone 3, it shouldn't be a short anymore. Change my mind.

[@abovewongart]

KZbin is old AF

[@i3530ee]

@abovewongart if u want to drill plastic I would advice to use drill bits for wood. Far less chance to break parts. It has centering point and cutting edges pointed inward. And when u drilling with wood drill bit it sometimes can catch material right before going through material, to avoid that u can spin it backwards to get best result and avoid failure

[@BootlegHuman]

Try creating a small resovoir of water with some kind of putty and then let the drill do the work. Its maybe similar to rock and glass where drilling with water prevents cracking Like cutting glass with scissors underater doesnt shatter

[@wildfire4175]

You might want to use a step bit to avoid the drill bit catching as it goes through the other side

[@mauryamckendrick5446]

oh my God!!! I didn't think anybody here had the knowledge of these bits on plastic or resin. they are the only bit I have ever used that will cut plastic or resin with ease and not chunk it out like he did. everyone was saying go faster or less pressure use coolant al this stuff, just use a step drill and boom your done!!!

[@canceledczech457]

Run the drill backwards and no chipping, wont drill as fast but has been a trick to drill resin, plexi and fiberglass for a very long time

[@davidp886]

FYI, most "tough" resins aren't harder, they're softer. The "tough" claim is that it doesn't break as easily. This is done by giving it more flexibility before it breaks. Meaning it's less brittle and would be easier to drill, not harder.

[@AllIsTaken]

Usually, when you drill holes, you also start at a small diameter and then work it up to avoid risking damage. Also, dont add too much pressure if any when facing down, the weight of the drill is enough, too much pressure will cause it to break.

[@PickledPixiePie]

Drilling the hold with the bit under water should prevent the plastic from cracking.

[@George-MCX10R]

Every time I've drilled something fragile faster has always worked better for me. If it's going fast there is less chance of it binding. At least that has been the case for me drilling glass

[@goblinofsharksnacks]

If you put tape where you wanna drill it helps

[@spikeblack5755]

Kryptonite soap dish for Lex Luthor, excellent piece

[@iitstre_4550]

"Don't wanna chip it so go slow" Immediate agony lmao.

[@alonsoquesada1136]

Twist drill bits will grab and break plastics, use a step or forstner drill bits instead

[@ItIsMeTheGuy]

I don’t know if this method works with resin but Adam savage demonstrated how if you submerge a glass bottle in water and drill it, it won’t shatter or chip. Maybe if you submerge your print in ipa or water the same way you can prevent chipping. Again, not entirely sure if it works with resin but could be a fun experiment.

[@abovewongart]

Yo that sounds like a great idea. I guess it's time to fuck around and find out

[@ItIsMeTheGuy]

@@abovewongart Hope to see the experiments soon!

[@xwsio.7535]

The L96 rifle, also known as the Accuracy International Arctic Warfare (AWP), is a bolt-action sniper rifle renowned for its exceptional accuracy, reliability, and modularity. Developed by British firearms manufacturer Accuracy International Ltd., the L96/AWP has become a benchmark for sniper rifles since its introduction in the 1980s. Design and Construction: The L96 is meticulously designed and constructed, utilizing advanced materials and engineering to ensure optimal performance. The rifle's chassis is primarily made from lightweight yet durable aluminum alloy, providing a rigid and stable platform. The stock is crafted from high-strength polymer composites, combining strength with ergonomics. This construction allows for a balance between weight reduction and robustness, making the rifle suitable for prolonged use in various environments and conditions. Barrel and Caliber: At the heart of the L96 lies its heavy, cold-hammer-forged barrel. The barrel, typically measuring around 26 inches (66 cm) in length, is crafted from high-quality steel to provide exceptional rigidity, heat dissipation, and consistency shot after shot. The barrel's length contributes to the rifle's accuracy and ensures optimal muzzle velocity for long-range shooting. The L96 is chambered in various calibers to meet the specific needs and preferences of users. While the .338 Lapua Magnum remains the most popular caliber, the rifle can be chambered in other cartridges such as .308 Winchester or .300 Winchester Magnum. Each caliber offers different ballistic characteristics, with the .338 Lapua Magnum providing extended effective range, exceptional accuracy, and superior penetration capabilities. Action and Magazine: The L96 features a meticulously engineered bolt-action system, which is renowned for its precision and reliability. The bolt itself incorporates a rotating bolt head with multiple lugs, ensuring a secure and consistent lockup during operation. The bolt can be effortlessly operated, providing a smooth and precise cycling experience. The L96 is designed for optimal compatibility with a detachable box magazine system. The standard magazine capacity is typically five rounds, although larger capacity magazines are available. The ease of magazine changes ensures quick reloads and minimal downtime during engagements. Stock and Ergonomics: The L96's stock is a masterpiece of design, providing exceptional ergonomics, customization options, and adaptability. The stock is adjustable in several key aspects to accommodate individual shooter preferences and various shooting positions. It allows for adjustments in length of pull, cheek height, and recoil pad position, ensuring a comfortable and personalized fit for each shooter. The stock's adjustability enhances stability, control, and accuracy, enabling shooters to maintain consistency and perform at their best during long-range engagements. Optics and Accessories: To fully exploit the L96's long-range capabilities, it is commonly equipped with high-quality telescopic sights or optic systems. The rifle's receiver is fitted with a MIL-STD-1913 Picatinny rail atop the action, allowing for the attachment of various optics, night vision devices, and other accessories. This rail system offers secure and repeatable optic mounting, ensuring consistent zero retention and enabling quick interchangeability of optics based on mission requirements or shooter preferences. Accuracy and Performance: The L96's reputation for outstanding accuracy is well-deserved, as it consistently achieves sub-MOA (Minute of Angle) precision. This means that the rifle can consistently group shots within 1 inch at 100 yards or 1 MOA at longer distances. The L96's exceptional accuracy is attributed to a combination of factors, including the high-quality barrel, precise bolt action, exceptional trigger system, and the overall attention to detail in manufacturing. With an effective range typically exceeding 1,000 meters, the L96 excels at engaging targets at extended distances with remarkable precision

[@loganvammiddlesworth393]

I felt that when he said alot of resin leaked out

[@pokemonkillerable]

Tip if ya dril again a bit of water helps to go trough with out chipping

[@Jq__176]

If you’re going to drill into it use a spray bottle with warm water or room temp as long as it’s not cold and spray the tip of the drill bit while drilling

[@abovewongart]

Lol tip*

[@johndoe1667]

Try using a step drill for plastic and resin. For some reason, it works much better for me than a regular helix bit.

[@317-Woodworker]

The breakoff issue could also be resolved if you use a small forstner bit or maybe a brad point bit. both bits have flutes around the edge that score the material as it advances...cutting and drilling. It makes for a smooth, accurate hole.

[@317-Woodworker]

you can get forstner bits down to 1/4" and brad bits down to 1/16. Also, you want high speed but slow progression. too slow means the drill bit can snag and tear the fibers of what ever material you are drilling(which is probably what happened).

[@ethansmith2191]

Try a dremel, you can get the smaller bits going way faster in hopes of it not catching and torqueing it enough to chip it.

[@SleepySeaUrchin]

Bro really got a green lantern creation in his hands

[@paolof.6899]

Warm before drilling to make it cut better and reduce shattering

[@laserclowns8402]

Not sure if you angled your print but if you did, you need to angle it more to get better self supporting and reduced sagging on the print face since you're using supports

[@aisyahazmi8835]

Keeping the liquid inside looks cool

[@626F62]

Don't go slow with the drill.. Go fast rpms on the drill but just super low pressure. So it still takes a while but less likely crack.

[@ChaosGamer93]

I felt the bad when it cracked when he was all hyped