How to get the best Clear Resin 3D Prints

[@hitmanjls30]

"the difference between screwing around and science is writing it down" ~Adam Savage lol

[@mynamesmiked]

And don't forget failure is always an option LOL

[@goldenfox334]

If he actually did say this hes not wrong. Modern firearm gunpowder was discovered from some chemist spilling acids 😂😂

[@fucku2b]

sounds about right

[@darianmohammad4607]

i dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.

[@mandimoore4946]

Am I missing an eyebrow?

[@DaniGirl6]

For the yellowing, you are going to want to use more of a violet or purple to neutralize it to a black/gray/smoke tint. However, since the yellow is not actually being removed, the print would look a touch darker then something that is clear like glass or water. The blue you were using looked too cool so that is why it still looked blue or green even opposed to a "darker" clear. You'll need to mix in a very small amount of red, maybe dip a toothpick to give a touch. A drop would likely be too much. To make something clear, what I heard is painting resin with a very soft paint brush after curing partway, then curing the rest of the way would help a lot. You probably already know that because the layers are made by pixels which defuses light like frosted glass. Smoothing those pixels is what will make things clear, so filling the spaces the same material or material with the same light refraction properties. Clear coat probably does not match the refraction and so limits how clear you can get. However, you know for sure the resin it was printed from does match the refraction so it would work very well. I have even seen lens made using the resin painting method. (Be it, cheap lens quality, but hey good lenses require fine grinding.)

[@Binary_Omlet]

Would something like UV-resistant clear coat work better for long-term usage?

[@lordbinky]

​@@Binary_Omlet It will slow process. Yellowing occurs from oxygen before the resin is cured (setting a timer the first time you pop the top of your container) and once cured the yellowing comes mainly from heat and/or UV breaking down the polymer. A UV blocker will run interference and slow that breakdown but it's going to happen eventually, just pushing the end result of 3 months of UV exposure to 12 months for the same color. To further reduce yellowing you need a clear coat with UV blockers to uh.. block the UV and an additive called HALS (Hindered-Amine Light Stabilizers ) that handle the oxidation that causes yellowing. Unfortunately you are looking at automotive level clear coats or a specialized coating that probably require a 2 part mix or doesn't just come in a spray can. It adds something like 20% to the manufacturing cost for HALS on top of the UV blockers so if the manufacturer doesn't go out of their way to say they contain HALS or free radical inhibitors then it probably isn't in the clear coat.

[@Binary_Omlet]

@@lordbinky Thanks for the info! I didn't know that!

[@loveisdying]

I have had great luck making parts near glass clear by using the Micromesh system, I have seen it used for resin pen making and once you get your prints up to 12,000 they're just gorgeous. Another quick and dirty method for a quick clear look is coating the print in mineral oil, this can make them attract dust but if you rub it in well it can also fill in the surface imperfections for a very clear finish

[@geradodiaz9041]

My humble recommendation is to use Krylon Gloss UV-Resistant clear coat. No Yellowing.

[@RoninDoesStuff]

Hey Jesse, Odd Tinkering here on youtube uses a method to remove yellowing from UV contaminated parts (read: sun exposure) when he restores plastic parts. Would this work with over-cured resins that have the yellowing? Would love to see a video on this, thanks!

[@JR-ey7fs]

But the question I can't find an answer to in any of Uncle Jessy's videos is: where can I buy or how can I make that amazing neon green color?????? I'm looking for options on how to make neon colors in 3d resin and that green is amazing! Please, if anyone knows it...

[@straydragur]

uncle jessy i need yourhelp i bought a brand new saturn and it will not print. i will go down start the first layer and then it shuts off comepletely then it turns on and reboots. ive tried re leveling re homing clean new fep and dumped and got all new resin. everything is elegoo brand. please help ive had this printer since march 4th and it has never worked not a single print off this thing. what can i do! please please help me

[@briancaldwell9038]

Back when I used to build aircraft model kits the trick to get a crystal clear canopy was to use Future Floor Polish on them. It's a clear, self leveling acrylic that worked really well. I imaging a clear gloss spray paint would be the same, but thought I would throw that out there.

[@WardenOfTerra]

Spray paints dry as the particles go through the air. It's not the same as dipping something into a gloss varnish.

[@TheMidnightSmith]

I also found sanding helps keep it clear. Problem is the pixel resolution leaves "stairs" on the print surfaces, small enought we can't see, but big enough to refract light and make it look not clear. The clear coat helps bridge these rough edges and let the light scatter less. Try a super low layer height, like 0.01. It makes a big difference. And you really really need to tune in the clear stuff layer cure time, any bit of over exposure makes it harder to get it clear. I've done a lot of experimenting, and it's super tough to nail it lol.

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah I forgot to mention everything was a .05 but for sure could test that out at .01 and see. Glad to hear someone else has been monkeying around with this!

[@manuelcarrera306]

Great comment bro

[@uploader755]

@@UncleJessy Definitely late to the party for this video but it's definitely worth trying Zona paper! It's a ridiculously fine sandpaper process that brings almost mirror shine to epoxy resin stuff, so would be good to see it on photopolymer as well

[@chriswills418]

Ooo starting to doable with clear resins gonna have to try this

[@AndrewAHayes]

I remember seeing someone letting his clear prints drip for longer than usual and then removing the supports and then curing without any cleaning and they stayed crystal clear

[@NoraFulcanelli]

Thats what I do

[@kapalaka]

@@NoraFulcanelli How many seconds per layer to cure would you recommend? I suspect I'm over-exposing my clear resin or something, it comes off so brown even from the plate.

[@Cakemagic1]

​@@kapalakaVery dependent on what resin and what printer you use. And even with 2 identical printers, one could have a stronger display than other. Especially if you're working with a monochrome screen. My colleague said that if you're working with transparent resin, you'll even need to reduce the UV light strength of your display if you're using a monochrome screen, because it's too powerful and scatters the light too much in the clear resin.

[@NoraFulcanelli]

@@kapalaka the recommended ammount the suppliers suggest. i don't do a lot of post uv curing as it increases brittleness, unless i need it to be stiff. If im doing minis very little uv curing, if you drop them the can break easier. Most of my yellowing is from post uv curing. And the print time is different from opaque resins, learned that the hard way.

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

That’s what I do.

[@UncleJessy]

For real! If you have a better method... LEMMI KNOW! I want to try out some other options with another followup to this! ResinLapse - The easiest way to create Resin 3D Printed Time lapses -www.etsy.com/listing/970847090/resinlapse-resin-3d-printer-timelapses

[@23chaos23]

The whole water curing thing a is a big fad, ive gone into detail in a discord I hang out in about why its just a waste of time. there is a couple videos kicking around on YT, one where the guy sights a research paper on "photo-initiator oxidation in photo polymer resin". But he completely misconstrues the results of the research paper. I am tempted to do a video on this subject over on my Resin engineer channel. The best results you will get on clear is to test out the Anti-aliasing options in your slicer.

[@rookmorrigan8379]

My best results Are from using a brush on gloss clear coat than a spray clear coat. I was using Elegoo's Water washable clear blue resin, which I would wash with Simple green, and then rinse with warm water as I removed the supports. I don't see any evidence of yellowing on my prints either. Though I used Elegoo's mercury for curing as well.

[@ImaginationToForm]

Can you try Monocure 3D ResinAway ? It's suppose to help keep prints clear.

[@FadedHero636]

Try wet sanding with Zona paper.

[@volntn2000]

I have had EXCELLENT results after curing by spraying on Krylon Crystal Clear Glaze. I did a Terminator bust in Elegoo translucent green and sprayed it with the glaze and it was perfect.

[@HungryHungryArtist12]

After the 1k/2k grit, try wet sanding with Zona Paper. Dice makers wet sand with Zona to give their masters a crystal clear finish.

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to look that up now!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for the tip! Ordering now!

[@dogmilker360]

you could potential try dipping prints in Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss, its a clear high gloss acrylic finish that lots on molders uses on clear parts like airplane canopy's or even airbrushed as a lacquer for more slight satin finish, might work on 3d print

[@squatchhammer7215]

Cool. I was looking for a way to make a clear lense for a dial.

[@pyramidsinegypt]

After curing, I stuff my prints in the oven, put it to around 60 degrees celcius and turn the oven on. By the time the oven hits 60, clear prints will have become more clear and any yellowing is pretty much undone completely.

[@Brakzillaa]

Instead of rustoleum clear, I recommend picking up a 2k clear. Rustoleum and other store brand aerosol, use air dry, so they lose shine as they cure. 2k is chemically cleared, The same we use on automotives, so the shine you see when you spray, is the shine you get when its cured.

[@johnellis6911]

KBS Diamond clear is a phenomenal clear if you want a wet look.

[@OrcaBrigade]

@@johnellis6911 I replied to op, in the event they don't see it, could I get your feed back to ensure I pulled up precisely the correct one(s)?

[@miricoleciona]

Hey for the visor you can try zona paper to polish. It’s what we use to polish dice and it turns clear resin ice transparent.

[@3DJapan]

When I made my hourglass with Sirayatech Blu for one of my videos I brushed on Polycrylic. I found the spray version left little dots on the print from the droplets leaving a textured finish while brushing it on left it more glass like. I also did 2 coats. The tricky part is that if the print is hollow you have to get both sides. With a pourable coating you can just pour some inside the model, swish it around, then pour it out.

[@ashkanaliyar6247]

Jesus that Oni mask looks insane !😍😍😍 absolutely jaw dropping💎👌💎

[@wkblauwster]

i found when experimenting with anycubic standard green (translucent) resin that it is the alcohol that dull the shine of the resin. like it is attacking the surface of the resin. so my technique was to very quickly dunk the print in alcohol for a second and then thoroughly clean it in normal water. then let it dry and cure. gave me amazing results that made the resin look just as transparent and colored as in the bottle

[@mikecameron7875]

I found that recently cured prints tend to dull gloss clear coat. Waiting hours for the prints to fully off-gas and stabilize seems to yield better results. Also, try 2K clear coat, as I think the lack of solvents (catalytic curing), seems to help keep the prints clear.

[@FlyingWoookie]

The red living armor is really cool ✨ and so is the mask 👹 I didn’t realize how much finesse was involved in clear prints!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks! Yeah i'm slightly obsessed with that Living Armor statue from Loot-Studios

[@SirJamesIGamerfuzion]

@@UncleJessy lol I actually just printed him him last night he is amazing looking also I’m new to resin printing I have yet to buy any clear resins yet

[@JustCallMeMeghan]

My resin crafting butt said "YES!" when I read the title, but apparently missed the "3D prints" part. 🤣 Still watched, cause I haven't spent nearly enough on resin and molds. Now I need to buy a 3D printer. 🤭

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

I would think that the clean/clear/cure method would end up in an uncured/undercured part, as most clearcoats contain UV blockers by design.

[@learnilluminatedrealitystu5571]

This is my thought as well

[@care-o-sene]

try using Pledge Floor polish on the miniatures! either airbushing it on, or even just dipping them in it and then shaking off the excess.

[@kvg4790]

PSA: Don’t buy IPA more concentrated than 70/30. It is extremely hygroscopic and rapidly absorbs H2O from the air. 70/30 is the equilibrium point, and that’s what you’ll end up with after a day (maybe shorter if it’s really humid) unless you keep it sealed in the bottle it came in. For work, I investigated a case of cardiac catheter failures that was linked to this. The SOP called for 99% IPA applied to a wipe and used to clean the devices prior to lubricious coating. There were a handful of devices (not for human use at that point) which essentially fell apart in the final lot of OQ/PQ testing (really final tests period). Turns out that they’d keep the 99% IPA in a squeeze bottle with a small spout (maybe 1.5mm ID nozzle) that was never sealed. The amount used for each device was quite small, so the bottle would be filled every couple of weeks. That minuscule area exposed to the atmosphere, and the air sucked into the bottle after a squeeze, was enough for the IPA to absorb H2O and dilute down to 70%. Except that the bottle ran out at some point and fresh 99% IPA was put in and used on those 5 devices, which caused chemical stress cracking in the polymer shafts.

[@scaleaddiction]

8 days ago I printed rc headlight lens on my channel with clear resin and sprayed clear coat without washing it, it came out amazing

[@fusionor]

How you prevent the print from being sticky? I find clear resin to be much more sticky if I don't clean with IPA. Did you cure after the clear coat?

[@UncleJessy]

Nice man! I forgot to mention that when I directly sprayed without cleaning my prints were super sticky after. What sort of Clear Coat did you use?

[@scaleaddiction]

@@UncleJessy I used automobile clear coat that comes with hardener and mixed 2 by 1 and 1 thinner, it looks like a glass, I got so may hate comments, telling me its resin molded lol

[@scaleaddiction]

@@fusionor yes after print didn't wash it, just put it under sun light and then wet sanded it and clear coat it

[@tastybrew]

Scale Addiction,,, love your videos

[@havocdogg]

I like the Oni mask. I wonder if in the future you might try clear coating only parts of the model and keeping other parts more opaque for some contrast. Also I wonder if you could lightup something like the ONI mask with leds, kinda purge mask style

[@UncleJessy]

You could easily tape off parts and only clear coat the unmasked areas... and I'm right there with you about adding some LEDs to this prop ;)

[@hightde13]

If you follow up on more sanding testing I would like to recommend also trying micro mesh pads and Zona Paper.

[@UncleJessy]

I just ordered some! Really excited to test that out!!

[@hightde13]

@@UncleJessy I've not had a chance to try more than 2 brands of print resin but I've found with Casting and Craft resin the harder the cured resin the better it will sand and polish. Not sure that has much effect on 3d prints as I don't know how much hardness varies. Looking forward to what you find out!

[@FineClonier]

Don’t get the pads, they don’t hold up. Get the cloth backed micro-mesh. Much better product and very long lasting when wet sanding.

[@plasticarcade]

This is actually a really good idea as well

[@grahamsilverthorn6967]

Hey Jessie. Any idea where or how I can get my hands on that living armour stl. I've been looking around and it seems like the stl. Is no longer available.

[@Paulbesmano]

Hi, where did you get the file for oni mask? TIA

[@esurfrider7687]

I don’t think post processing is nearly as important as which clear resin brand you are using, kind of think you should do another video with 5-10 different clear resin brands. Having worked with epoxy for a long time, the brand makes a huge difference!

[@salukikev]

I've found that the more water (including water washable resins) contacts printed clear resins the cloudier your resulting part is. I've tried to print optical parts before and one successful technique was to clean a part made with water washable resin inside a ziplock filled with mineral oil. The resulting part is transparent to this day.

[@retromodernart4426]

Sorry for the late question, but do you *clean* the part in the mineral oil, *cure* the part in the mineral oil, or both? Thanks for the info!

[@salukikev]

@@retromodernart4426 Its been a while but I generally spent some time giving it the "shake n' bake" treatment to try and rinse off the resin inside the bag with mineral oil inside. I think I figured why not cure it in there too and just threw the whole bag into the uv curing box. Not to oversell it- it's not crystal clear optical lens material, but its very notably better than parts that get clouded by contacting water. Actually now that I'm thinking of it, I'm not sure if I skipped the alcohol step or not.

[@retromodernart4426]

@@salukikev Very interesting, thanks!

[@jeremiahembs5343]

Another issue is you are cleaning your prints almost right away and in doing so you are removing the thick goo that would dry shiny and clear. Just let them drip dry and be exposed to a little light in the room before washing and you'll have a more smooth surface to start with. With FDM printers the secret is extra pressure at the start by having the distance between the nozzle and the build plate more tight than usual and using a slow print speed moving nozzle slowly over the surface and using a little more heat and a lower fan speed and having ironing option on and just slightly over extruding maybe 2 or 3 percent and using extremely low layer heights so the pressure and heat smooshes the layers together. I've gotten printed rupies to to look completely clear.

[@DanteNava]

Krylon Tripple Clear Glaze. I cure in water for just a minute or two. I also clean my stuff in Mean Green, I haven't used alcohol since it started getting difficult to get. Clear coat fills in the tiny scratches.

[@thatroodeguy91]

Bought myself a CR10S about 2 months ago, but watching your videos is REALLY making me want my 2nd printer to be a resin printer. Love the amount of time you spent on these tests and how thorough you were. Great content.

[@UncleJessy]

Oh man congrats on the CR10S! I hope you're printing some helmets on that beast. The CR-10 line continues to be one of my go to printers for FDM prints. But yeah... resin... its a slipper slope haha

[@thatroodeguy91]

@@UncleJessy but of course! Iron man helmet and a Predator mask as requested from my son. Between you 3DPN and FranklyBuilt, I had to pull the trigger on a printer haha

[@joegibes]

Resin printing is easy and great! Only one motor and movement axis compared to 3+extruder for filament. Easier to troubleshoot and get good quality prints! There's good uses for both but with resin printers so cheap I say go for it!

[@oscarreyes4511]

Use distilled water next time. The clear prints gets that haze from absorbing the minerals in the water

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah going to try that out for sure! Thanks!

[@jasonMontalvo1]

Mean green or another degreaser works. Figured out soon that alcohol is used to clean resin for a reason. No bueno

[@gaetanfoisy6415]

My clear prints always look bad if I don't let the isopropyl alcohol dry completely before curing them under tap water. It always takes longer than I expect, but if they are 100% dry, then they are perfect. It's gotten to the point where I'll wash my parts and let them dry for a few hours before curing.

[@KevinVanderbeken]

I tried this today and it still came out yellowed. :(

[@MasterRisto]

What Printer did you print that oni mask on? It looks like it would be too big for a Saturn.

[@Ionizem]

i have seen good results applying thinned UV resin with an air brush,

[@designersmind3140]

Great video. I'd be wary of clear coating before curing as a lot of clear coats are UV protective, so they will block the curing and leave your part under-cured

[@bengamzeletova5543]

I tried printing something flat on a wham bam plate and it awesome you can print very detailed figure without support the base

[@bengamzeletova5543]

And no ruin it with spatula

[@UncleJessy]

Awesome right?! Love those whambam flexplates

[@hollywoodhobie]

I keep telling you, once you get the process down you need to test visors and eye inserts. Maybe make the entire mando helmet smokey clear and masking off everything you want to stay clear and painting the rest.

[@UncleJessy]

A fully transparent Mando helmet would be wild to see

[@markroberts6022]

try switching resin brands, Anycubic's Clear is a lot better then Elegoo's Clear(and I'm a diehard Elegoo user)!

[@KevinVanderbeken]

Interesting. I'm printing anycubic clear now. It still goes drastically yellow with a 2min cure, however after a week on the shelf it's gone back to white... super fascinating and i'm experimenting to see if i can replicate.

[@chaucer44]

use AUTOMOTIVE 2K CLEAR. It will blow your mind. Throw that rattle can clear in the trashcan.

[@thra-x1855]

apparently denatured alcohol doesnt cause frosting

[@bigfard]

I just got my first bottle of translucent resin so this video came out at the perfect time haha I'm excited to try these methods out!!

[@avejst]

Wow, Great test and retest! Love that your share your expriences with all of us :-)

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for checking it out and will be doing more followup as I'm sure there are still better ways to do this

[@thedesigns9570]

I clean, dip my prints in polycrylic, amd lightly blow off excess with compressed air. The polycrylic seems to have some uv protection because it took 2 years for one of my prints to yellow sitting on a window sill.

[@sindrejl]

Hey Jessy! There is one thing you forgot to test: Dont clean at all, only cure. That can make a bit more messy print regarding uncleaned resin hanging around - but I get totally translucent prints with that method! :)

[@Josh_reilly]

Definitely going to try this, thanks!

[@UglyButUseful]

I tried not cleaning and it still yellowed and just ended up looking really gross on the outside because of all the extra resin not washed off. It did however stop it from clouding as much

[@cedricg.9260]

Cost is Loosing details.

[@Arty014]

Is there any food safe resin in the market?

[@UncleJessy]

Not that I'm aware of. I believe you would need to mold and cast to do that

[@thedadgeek4793]

Use distilled water so the minerals in the water don’t bond to the print. Just like your faucet the minerals build up from the water not being pure.

[@UncleJessy]

Awesome! Thanks for the tip. I will pick some up and give that a try!

[@KevinVanderbeken]

​@@UncleJessy @Geekzwholift - I've read this comment before and tried this repeatedly recently. Anycubic basic clear. Clear after printing, clouded (because the texture is exposed) but still white after cleaning in 99% IPA, and then a 2min cure in anycubic wash and cure 2.0 in demineralised water (yes, i know that's not distilled...but no minerals. The difference in distilled would be less organics like bacteria if they're in there, opposed to demineralised). That last step has a drastic yellowing. I covered it with clear picture varnish and put it on the shelf for now. This is where it gets interesting!! ...after a week of having the print on my shelf, that part has now gone back to white instead of yellow! I've printed another set just today to repeat the process exactly to see if NOT applying that clear varnish allows it to turn back to white within a week. If it also goes back to white instead of yellow then some of the chemical processes are having an evaporation or oxidisation process and the part is going back to white for some reason. Totally interesting and i hope you do a follow up video to show what these parts look like over time on the shelf.

[@Reality2Robots]

I just did a test last week with first cleaning off all the excess resin with IPA after printing, let dry thoroughly and then with a fine paint brush paint thin clear layers of fresh clear resin on the print. Let it then dry before applying a second coat of clear resin. Then let that dry for about an hour. It doesn’t need to be totally dry. Then run it for about 2-4 minutes under a UV curing light. The results were pretty good actually. To see my results you can check out my Instagram “nixon_files” post about it last week.

[@masscollector4511]

I bet if you use higher grit sand paper like you said, will definitely make it better on that visor. Start with 180/220 and have at least two more progressions after with higher grits. The more you have, the better outcome. I work for a mfg company that makes wood veneered panels, and while I know wood and resin are totally different, I am assuming the process and results may be similar.

[@mikecameron7875]

Has anyone noticed straight lines of bubbles when printing thick pieces in clear? Usually at the center mass of suction on the print. I left the resin for a while after printing so bubbles all pop, and upped my delay time so the resin can flow back under the plate. Could it possibly be cavitation in the liquid due to excessive vacuum forces, or is cavitation more a result of speed alone (i.e. mantis shrimp).

[@layer3dinnovations998]

I have noticed this in relatively thin parts (2-3 mm walls) I have been trying to make using Elegoo Clear resins (both ABS-like and standard). It is like a tiny column of air bubbles, starting partway through the print. I had the vat clear of any visible bubbles before trying to print. I have tried filling the vat more and using a slower retract speed, but got a near identical result. This consistency makes me think the bubbles are forming due to some kind of chemical off-gassing or cavitation, rather than just getting entrained from the motion of the build plate/part in and out of the vat. I am now trying a few different orientations and locations on the build plate to see if I can fix it. Super frustrating! Let me know if you found a solution!

[@Hybroid]

You guys fixed it?

you can use Tamiya Polishing compound on the Mandalorian visor and it`ll become even more crystal clear.

[@joshuabtindall2861]

Truth About Dwellings

[@TheGathumpus]

Saw somebody somewhere who heated the clear prints with a heat gun for a few minutes and they cleared a bit more

[@jonroberts5239]

A bit late to the video but I didn't see anyone else mention this... I find that IPA causes a lot of my issues with translucent prints, causing that cloudy/frosted look. Due to this, I wash with Mean Green (have never noticed an issue with color) in my ultrasonic cleaner, then cure in water for just a few minutes. In this process the water actually removes the stickiness, while if I air-cure them they remain sticky even when over-cured. Final step is to clear-coat with Krylon Crystal Clear, usually needs 2 coats. When printing in the colorless resin I usually don't cure for more than a minute or two before spraying them.

[@EBrichardson]

Does anyone know if you have to print figures/statues completely solid in transparent resin or can you hollow them? Also, for hollow what about internal supports?

[@metalHead11211]

I just paint on a thin layer of clear resin with a small brush and then cure. works like a charm. awesome channel btw good stuff.

[@gabrielmarroquin7123]

I dont know how it would react with resin, but a way to deal with yellowing old game console is by submerging it in hydrogen peroxide and blasting it with uv for a while. It fixes the yellowing easily

[@OleBaconBeard]

Looks awesome! Just curious what size/dimensions did you print the menpo mask? Thanks!

[@UncleJessy]

I scale my masks to a 3D model of my head to make sure they fit

[@rabbidjeremy9193]

Man the Saturn is so great, I love it.

[@UncleJessy]

Such abadass little machine

[@garbage_person]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your Saturn? They're always sold out or price gouged whenever I look. Edit: nvm, I got one by pure chance while watching the amazon page.

[@rogg0224]

Where did you get it?

[@aaronb1138]

Clear / super blonde shellac lays up better on matte surfaces than a few layers of rattle can clear unless you upgrade to Spraymax 2K* catalyzed clear ($$) or put on several layers of conventional rattle can clear. I get near optical clear with 2 coats of ~1-1.5 lb cut shellac. Bonus, you can make the shellac on demand with IPA or denatured you already have on hand. And alcohol inks work with shellac to adjust color or even do multi / layered color translucent prints. One other coating for ultimate UV protection / anti-yellowing would be Sylvania's Headlight Restoration Essentials kit. That coating has lots of self-levelers for creating an optical grade finish on freshly sanded plastic plus tons of anti-yellowing UV inhibitors. For wet sanding, probably start at 600 or 1000 on resin prints unless you have layer lines or glitches from a print that came out not so great. Below 600 grit, it's sanding much rougher than where the surface started and really changing the shape and details more than smoothing the surface finish. *If you're going to spring for a can of Spraymax 2K clear, make sure you have enough stuff spray to use it all in one go. It's a catalyzed urethane, the same as automotive clear coats and once you pop the can, it has pretty much that day to be used. And it requires a VOC respirator -- more so than any resin, alcohol, or other solvent that you have handled. In fact, I would recommend swapping in fresh VOC filters with it.

[@jeremiahembs5343]

When sanding use a sanding sponge instead of just a sheet of paper and that'll make a lot of difference as it'll form around the object and won't miss as many sunken surfaces; skip over the rougher grades and just use the finer grades right away. Or use pumice on a sponge dipped in mineral oil or olive oil instead of a sanding sponge. Or just use a buffing machine set to the lowest speed and use a very soft loose sewn buffing wheel with white rouge used for silver and brass and plastic.

[@sanpilou]

Personal experience with water curing tells me that your prints were still wet with IPA when you put them in water. They have to be completely bone dry, otherwise you'll get this cloudy effect.

[@Extremehalofan16]

Thanks for making videos, I hope you keep making lots more, you make 3D printing fun again Uncle Jessy

[@UncleJessy]

Oh thank you so much for that comment! Really means a lot. I do try to make this as fun as I can while I share what I'm learning with everyone. Thanks for checking out my vidyas!

[@axellizear2309]

I’ve noticed whenever you print transparent pieces hollow they always come out cloudy because you can’t clear coat the inside

[@UncleJessy]

Thats very very true. I wonder if there would be a good way to pour clear coat into the print and swish it around

[@HenryCreations]

You can, you have to get some epoxy clear resin, and inject it, then rotocast it and pour the excess out into the next piece!

[@happynopes]

@@UncleJessy You can spray paint from rattle cans into a cup.

[@cmarcrum25]

@@UncleJessy Pouring works great, fills alot of the lines you can get to.

[@someonez_dad]

Not to too sure as we haven't tested it ourselves but a hobby trick is to use a pledge floor wax to make clear plastics more clear almost glass like but not sure if it'll react the same to resin.

[@Shinobubu]

have you tried just letting the parts drip the excess resin and cure it with out washing it? because the goopy layer is already molecularly smooth. clear coating just re-applies this go layer.

[@FrankGiuliani]

Is there a water washable red transparant resin? Or a water washable translucent/transparent resin where you can add some coloring to yourself? I'm looking for a coca cola color, the drink itself (not the bottle)

[@Chuckles_the_Jester]

i got a question, is it possible to do a solid resin print with clear resin, but has internal details? like a crystal with internal fractures or something

[@nonchip]

i found that _for some resins_ the prints seem way clearer since i started to run them under hot water after washing to soften the supports during removal, and then curing. maybe some of the "half washed away" outer layer gets washed off further during that process? (for other resins it just makes them goopy, fingerprinty and ruins the result, so i don't use those for prints that need support softening) a combination that works really well for its price/effort i found: 1:1 Elegoo ABSlike + "frenshion" (aliexpress fake brand as far as i can tell) cheapo fingernail gel resin, on the abslike's printing profile, washing in ancient dirty 99% IPA, washing/unsupporting under 60ish°C water (ouch), curing. have been printing structural components, miniatures, busts, etc with that, they all look and work pretty great even without a spray coat (though of course better with one). and as a bonus it's somewhere between just abslike and the expensive "tough flexy" resins in terms of hardness, so it's a bit more forgiving for tiny details in models you want to handle/drop.

[@DCriscOSU]

I know this is an old video, but I'm Woodworking/woodturning when we work with epoxy and we're trying to get a clear/gloss finish, we and up through the grid (220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1,000 without skipping grits), then move in to either micromesh pads, and then playoff Pulliam with a buffer (not everyone uses micromesh). Again, probably not viable for miniatures or highly detailed, but for that Mando visor in guessing you could get it near glass looking

[@thrrax]

I just print, wash in 99.98/9 IPA, then cure (direct sunlight for minis if possible, as I found that they get less frosty as opposed to UV lights from my Wash & Cure), then use a fixative varnish produced by Jovi (hard to get some nowadays).

[@cmarcrum25]

Clean, cure and sand, sand, wet sand, then clear coat Clean in 90% IPA Sand in multiple grits 320, 600 then 800. I took the idea from wood guys and got a King Author GUINEVERE sanding kit (save your Hands) Rust-Oleum Headlight Restoration Kit works great, 1200 wet sanding then buffing compound. (Hooks up to drill) Clear Coat in a 2 part automotive Clear, I use TRANSTAR Quick Clear and use spraygun. I get the interior buy pouring the extra clear and rotating to get a even coating.

[@nerdycatcos9077]

oh man Anyone know how to fix this type of issue? I have a clear resin print that I accidentally got 70% IPA on AFTER it was cured and gloss clear coated. It got dull so, without sanding it, I hit it with another coat of clear gloss. Didn't realize it would be hot out that day. Took it inside after work and now the "cloudiness" has lifted somewhat, but it's still "frosted/fogged over" Unlike my other clear print which I didn't get any IPA on.

[@KamronFultz]

sooooooo sanding miniatures... WHAT IF??? You bought a Vibratory Case Tumbler and filled it with very fine sand? Just curious.

[@AndrewAHayes]

That Mando visor would look great with black ink mixed with the resin!

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah it was smokey black resin and i think a little darker would look even better

[@GregAtlas]

@@UncleJessy I think I'd do the extra sanding and then polishing paste and then apply one way mirror film personally.

[@craigbeaulieu9967]

This might seem like common sense but looking for some kind of official response to this... On a solid, not hollowed print, will a clear UV resin fully cure all the way through? With a solid print using non transparent resin, even with a curing station the inside partially cured resin will eventually find a way to sweat out of the model (even primed and printed) so I'm hoping that if I print and cure a statue with clear resin, that the longevity of the painted piece is guaranteed... Any thoughts? Like I said it seems like a "no duh" question but hey, even the clearest of windows block UV light to a certain degree 😊 thanks in advance!

[@timsmith939]

Hobby lobby or I’m sure Amazon had little 2 inch by 2 inch square sanding foam pads near the model cars and airbrush paints. Wet sad up to about 600 with plain sand paper but then use these pads. They are really fine grit. I think they go from 1000 grit to 12000 grit! It takes time but especially for the visor you would want total transparency. You can also use a good quality clear coat and then do the sanding for the absolute best result! I was a hydro dipper and learned these techniques . I also made resin ink pens that spun on a lathe which made wet sanding way easier due to fast revolutions.

[@gixermike1]

Somebody must've already said this.. polishing is polishing. aluminium, Silver, gold orpaint... I use the same red rouge polish on my clear prints as I use on my Jewellery. Totally clear. short post cure beforehand. Get a couple of mops, get some compound.. it works a treat but obviously you are limited on the profiles and shapes that polish well... If someone said all this.. We can't all be wrong ;)

[@rodrigorevilla2604]

Hi, great video, thanks for sharing. Just curious about what kind of ink did you use? and I didn't understand about the clear step, is that the coating spray? Thank you though.

[@TimSimpson]

there are kits you can get for restoring car headlight clarity. it should be able to make your Mandalorian visor completely clear

[@benfala9984]

HOW CAN I GET THAT LIVING ARMOR FILE?!?! ITS SOO COOOOOOL! it looks like its not on loot studios anymore ): is there a way to get old files?

[@TheArtofWalls]

You don't need any extra product to get a 100% transparent glass-like result. Have you ever noticed how the pieces just printed look very transparent and then they get dull when you wash them? this is bacause the resin pieces are made of microscopic cubes the size of the LCD screen pixels. When the piece is cleaned, all the curved surfaces have jagged surface due to this. Since the cubes are microscopic you can't see them but they are the cause of the rugged finish. What you have to do is one of two things: ONE: don't wash the piece. Just drain it well and cure it as is. All the transparency of the just printed piece will be preserved because the liquid resin covers the rugged cubic surface of the piece so the addition results in a smooth surface. TWO: Wash the piece and then apply liquid resin as if it was a varnish with a brush. You can wash the brush with ISO alcohol, of course. The first method is good for pieces with no detail (I have printed lightsaber blades perfectly transparent this way and I'm sure you could print that Mando visor as transparent as a piece of polycarbonate) and the second method is better for detailed figures since you can control where and how much "varnish" to apply.

[@ibbanez5451]

try print drip and cure, no IPA at all, youll spot something great. The poiint is IPA is cleaning everything uncured leaving 35um on sm4k and 50um on the other printers squares. Those squares bending light. The print and cured part will be freaking clear but blurred/will loose some details. In fact on prints like this batarang it will worh fine if you wait long enough to let most resin drip into vat. Just try :P Anyway in my opinion perfectly clear print is not actually to do unless you print something flat, literally lay on bed and print it (some kind of square) then after ipa cleaning in Z axis it will bee transparent as long as your bed isn't scratched too much

[@Duraltia]

I'd argue that yellowing is a problem with poor quality resin... I use Formlabs Clear Resin and I don't recall ir ever yellowing on me. Neither large, hollowed out, models ( like this IS Raven i.imgur.com/E91UZQN.jpg ) or tiny ones ( like some Head Ligh Glasses for a 1:16 Scale RC Tank i.imgur.com/lT2kzLk.jpg )

[@anna-lenakrause2420]

Loved the video! What kind of ink did you use?

[@ShadowOfADaemon]

the method i found that works best for me... 3 steps... step 1.. 99% ipa wash for ten to 20 ... step 2 mr clean wash ( 2 to 5 mins) ... step 3 cure in container of 99% ipa.... only use 99% ipa and not 70% as water induces cloudiness... don't let parts dry between steps ... go for one step to the next immediate step... curing in a liquide removes oxygen from the surface which when curing cause resin to yellow, i have found that water cause cloudiness so I only use ipa.. the higher the % the better

[@RitaBaumann]

the clearest I have gotten mine is by cleaning, curing, then coating with no-wipe gel (nail) polish top coat and curing again (gel polish has to be cured). I make mostly 1/6 miniatures and props. I got into resin 3d printing because it seemed to be so similar to gel nails. lol

[@Arucard47]

How do you prevent the clear resin from curing further after clear coat and initial cure? Does anyone use UV protectors?

[@nroman1977]

Go to 3000 grit wet sand followed by hand buffing with Meguires "Plastex" plastic polish and a micro fiber cloth by hand in a circular motion. Trust me.

[@jayarenner]

isn't the curing gassing off, and wouldn't that be stopped by the clear coat? so my question is has the clean/spray/cure version lost its toxicity as I would expect the clean/cure/spray to?

[@laam999]

Check out Rybonator here on KZbin. He mostly prints for dice but makes his resin (mostly casting resin) glass like. It may not work for you but definitely worth a try.

[@CdoGtheGreat]

Hey Unc J... try the tip someone in the comments said, quick dip in ipa then water. To add to that I suggest do not let it cure in any light until the clear coat is dry. I mean let the clear coat dry in the dark. Also try airbrushing a 2k polyurethane clear coat that is reduced thin enough to limit the amount of detail reduction. When all coats are dry , cure. ....lastly, please tell us what resins you used in this video. The greens I think it was 2 different ones are amazing, also that red figure after the clear was beautiful! I bet one of the green was syratech? Keep up the excellent work brother.

[@sinquality5608]

the steps of your sandpaper should be max a step of 100 difference otherwise the deep scratches will be still there from 200 and jump to 1000 will not take out the deep one steps should be something like 220 - 300 - 400 - 600 - 800 - 1000 - 1500 - 2000 - 2500 - 3000 but you dont have a rough surface so you could start with 600

[@raynereed6204]

Have you tried jedrek29t's method using the car polishing paste? He gets pretty clear results, than again im honestly just starting my resin printing adventure and subscribed to you and a few other resin crafters like nick zammeti and jedrek29t to learn from you guys so what do i know lol

[@frankcastle971]

I would like to see them cleaned and then dipped in lacquer like your recent video. I need to try this... I want to make an actually CLOAKED Predator

[@nickallain]

A few things I've found: - Automotive clearcoat is better - Print solid - If you're going to take your prints outside and don't want them to turn even more yellow, get yourself a car headlight restoration kit with UV protectant. It's usually kind of protectant that chemically bonds to plastic like a clearcoat that blocks UV light. - If you print a flat-ish surface, you can do the old wetsand polish thing where you keep doubling your standpaper grit. Once you hit 4000 grit, go ahead and clear coat.

[@metalbass5]

Were you using deionized water for the water cure? Mine don't seem to haze as much with it. Shorter cure time perhaps? I'm also using a mix of pure ethyl and isopropyl (alcohol fireplace fuel).