Recommended Whole House Surge Protectors: Expert Tips from James Adams

[@multiplexor5920]

This guy is great! I loved when he called us out for glazing over!

[@Robnord1]

Thank you for *not* shilling for the company selling the device _EMP Shield_ . So many discussing the topic of surges and surge protection do endorse the over priced and misrepresented product for the ad dollars. You keep it real and recommend devices that have a decent reputation and represent a good value. 👍👍

[@abrelectric]

Thank you! I needed to hear that :)

[@Dfk429S9fo3]

But the EMP Shield features Military Certified Testing. It's gotta be good.

[@ChaplainDaveSparks]

In fairness … _EMP Shield_ is *SUPPOSEDLY* designed to protect against _electro magnetic pulses,_ which *MIGHT* be worse than lightning in that they might last longer, have a higher frequency component, etc. That said, there really is no *OBJECTIVE* rating to prove that. They were designed by an engineer who took his *BEST GUESS* as to the expected threat. For example, an EMP could result from a nuclear detonation, but it would be dependent upon the megaton yield, altitude, type of device, distance from ground zero, etc. It could also result from a _coronal mass ejection_ from the sun. Unfortunately, the last really significant one, the _Carrington Event_ occurred in the 19th century and no one had the proper instrumentation in place to really measure it.

[@Robnord1]

@@ChaplainDaveSparks I agree completely about not knowing what magnitude EMP or CME may be headed our way. If a surge suppressor is wanted on a main panel, folks like GE, Siemens, Leviton, etc. make units and they're half the price or less than the EMP Shield product. Furthermore the EMP Shield would be useless on a vehicle. Shame on them for fear mongering and making wild claims for high profits.

[@NickMcC]

I love the way you teach! Other people could have definitely made this boring content, but you made it fun! Thanks!

[@abrelectric]

Thank you!

[@stevemelton3619]

Fyi the siemans boltmaster spec is for a 6 inch cable run also. For longer cable runs to your panel, twist the wires uniformly as far as you can in addition to keeping the power cable from unit to panel. By twisting the wires. Doing this decreases the impedance giving you a much better spec than would be with not twisting the wire. I do not know what cable length other surge protectors spec is written

[@abrelectric]

Thank you!

[@diySolarPowerFunWithRay]

Thanks, great discussion. I understand how it can handle the spikes but what about handling the dips? How does it handle that?

[@abrelectric]

It doesn't. Ideally, you could install a line conditioner or UPS to handle the easy dips/peaks. Vs spikes etc

[@freeheeler09]

During our huge, 2023 California snowstorms, in addition to being snowbound by three feet of Sierra Cement and out of power for ten days, we lost a few grand in breakers and appliances. We redid our panel with whole house surge protectors in addition to the new breakers.

[@abrelectric]

Which surge protectors did you use?

[@stevenmerlock9971]

I do a layered protocol. Lightning arrestors on inputs. Leibert surge at the mains coming into the house. Natural gas, diesel /generator connected to a Schneider 220 power conditioner. Critical electronics use cyber power pure sinewave UPS.

[@csimet]

Nice overview. I was taught you need several levels of protection, where possible. Install a whole-house surge protector at *any* power panel (including sub-panels) and make sure your individual devices are on typical homeowner purchasable/installable protection power plug strips (buy quality ones that also provide coax and phone protection, where needed). For my sensitive computer equipment, I also have a smaller quality UPS off my surge strip that protects and provides power in the case of brownouts (keeps the device up). I personally have an in-panel Eaton BRNSURGE, but I also live in an area not prone to regular lightning. As you said, nothing is going to protect you from a direct strike... but may help.

[@SavedByFaithInJesus]

These where the answers I was looking for.

[@adamplummer2190]

Hope your not plugging a UPS into a surge. Many ups have built in surge protection. The more plugs you have, the more potential issues with overload you have and voltage drop.

[@lzh3131]

No apologies needed, you’re providing very informative and valuable information. I live on the gulf coast & the grid issue. This is a no brained. Thank you this video is very much appreciated.😊

[@TheParot161]

Thank you for covering the “then what.” I just had an Eaton installed and to the electrician’s credit they told me right up front that they are not reusable.

[@george5120]

I hear that whole-house surge protector warranties are void if not installed by a licensed electrician. But the licensed electrician, who I spoke to, didn't know what a whole-house surge protector is. And he never heard of my Siemens FS140 model. So, I installed it myself and did fine.

[@harveypaxton1232]

As a service electrician I routinely find the DP breaker feeding the surge protection device is tripped. The devices need to be mounted so the customer can check the status LEDs regularly.

[@rockhead11]

Excellent presentation, thank you! We were a little confused but you explained what we needed to know perfectly.

[@abrelectric]

Awesome!

[@Lloydski]

Keep in mind now that there is nothing out there that will stop a direct lightning strike. There is nothing in this world to this date that could harness a bolt of lightning.They are working on it. Fact. One bolt of lightning has enough energy to power New York City for one week. These are for surges and spikes only and are required by code to be installed into new services. Best advice here is to install surge power strips a each 120 volt plug in point. (ie) TV Computers ect... Very good vid ABR..

[@E150GT]

If only we had a flux capacitor

[@chrisspy1226]

Good advice to read the fine print "All three of the removable IModule™ units must be replaced every three years to maintain the connected equipment warranty." Eaton warranty is 5yrs so that needs replacing too. TV loses coverage if coax surge protector not installed. Thanks for the vid!

[@abrelectric]

Good point! The warranty or the manufacturer insurance won't mean anything if you don't know their terms and process to file a claim. Is there such a thing as a bulletproof SPD, if anything happens, you're covered? Period....

[@chrisspy1226]

@@abrelectric Lloyd's of London or self insure with personal savings. Out of bounds conditions need to be written to keep insurance affordable.

[@Lttlwing16_]

Eaton voids your warranty if you don't have receipts. Who has receipts for their appliances that came with their house 😬 NOT ME!

[@lzh3131]

@@Lttlwing16_ I have to. Hurricane issues…they want all the paper. Receipts & Credit Card Statements.

[@lzh3131]

@@chrisspy1226 American Home Shield has always done me right.

[@ciliap]

Back to lead length.... vs. Breaker location: What is more important: Example...is it better to get the lead closer to the actual breaker but it be at the bottom vs recommended top. Or is it better to have the breaker first in line after the service.... but with a longer lead leading out to the FS140.

[@abrelectric]

The manufacturer instructions will hold sway: the FS140 only requires the leads be short and close to the 2 pole 20 supply breaker.

[@iberiuspolonius8591]

Great video, I'm wondering if I would need separate protectors for my central AC and furnace

[@abrelectric]

Iberius - firstly, I love your name! Chocked full of history. Yes, I would not only rely on a central SPD, since the furnace and condenser units are not crazy expensive and easy to install. Also, remember, stray current has many, although less likely, paths into your house. Thank you!

[@iberiuspolonius8591]

@@abrelectric thank you. See you're a history buff too, lol

[@abrelectric]

@Iberius Polonius love Latin and Greek- read The Gallic Wars in high-school.

[@iberiuspolonius8591]

@@abrelectric that was some impressive education then. I know Spanish, that's about it. But I'm a big fan of Julius too.

[@looloo6322]

This helps, just had my well hit by lightning, blew out my well pump control box, $2600. I'm getting a type 1 , two type 2s and a few type 3s.Yes I am in a high lightning area, top of mountain.

[@wesleyi]

This, as all the others have commented, was really helpful! I also learned about the Intermatic smart guard from you. So thank you for your content. I’d love to hear your updated thoughts on the Intermatic products, given it’s been about 3yrs since this video posted and maybe more importantly because Intermatic now has the 2280 line. (Apologies if you’ve already covered this but I somehow missed it but also thank you in advance!)

[@patrickhayes-foley6390]

Agree with csimet: great overview. And good for pointing out the difference between surges and spikes; I find even in technical articles these are conflated. According to my HV textbook, spikes (impulses) are high amplitude but extremely fast (micro-nano seconds ), whereas surges are usually 2-3x the supply voltage but for much longer duration than spikes. Interesting that the US is (or has by now?) made surge protection at db level mandatory. The more I research power system irregularities, the more I think this is a good idea. My protection level is also 2-stage: fat arrestors at the db and individual lighter-duty devices at the sockets of sensitive equipment. Because we (in South Africa) have been exposed to controlled blackouts for years now, the socket devices also delay connecting the equipment to the supply when power resumes.

[@abrelectric]

Yes! 'Conflated' is correct. I wrestle with the same particular issues, in making them tangible-measurable: i.e. is a certain transient super fast? Is it large in over-all surge amps, but slower? Yes, the US has adopted the 2020 NEC, which requires surge protection. Unfortunately, it gives very few parameters as to what should be installed, beyond bring Type 1 or Type 2.

[@patrickhayes-foley6390]

@@abrelectric It's very difficult to define the amplitude, duration and energy content (power x time) of a random transient. A statistical approach is taken. The energy content is the one aspect that enables a comparison between their effects, and this is related to the integral of the waveform, basically the area under the curve. However, I would think that a high amplitude but extremely short (so lowish energy) impulse can still damage semiconductors. The field has borrowed the concept of a set of standardised impulse waveforms from HV engineering (1.2/50 microseconds, etc), where 1.2 is the risetime and 50 roughly the duration. This allows for standard testing and specifying of transient voltage suppressors. The impulse waveform is unidirection; it doesn't oscillate. A representative indoor waveform is a 5kHz-500kHz oscillating waveform, each peak being 60% smaller than the previous. The transient resonates with the indoor circuitry. A representative outdoor waveform is generally one of the standard impulses, higher energy than indoor transients. I suppose these are the types occuring as a result of a power system switch or induced from far -off lightning. Most of the above was gleaned from a 1994 Harris Semiconductor transient voltage suppression devices databook. Still an extremely good reference. I think that after decades of development, MOVs can catch and adequately suppress the fastest and highest energy transients adequately, apart from, as you say, direct lightning. One of the interesting observations in the book is that (even at that time) measured surges would be reduced from their original value if the meter was unknowingly connected across installed transient voltage suppression devices. So it's very possible that after a while the sheer number of MOVs (especially type1), as a result of the new regulations, will have a combined dampening effect, at least locally, on power system surges, basically reinforcing each other (paralleled MOVs share energy dissipation).

[@abrelectric]

Patrick, good data thank you

[@GoldenCalf777]

Your Awesome at explaining this subject. Keep them video loaded,, Thanks Coach!

[@carmenmolina4497]

awesome I'm going with the Eaton. Thanks for link and the information

[@gcg9056]

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="230">3:50</a> I looked away at the western that was on and got busted!!! lol

[@milkywayandbeyond]

Hi, the distinction between SCCR and surge amps still isn’t quite clear.

[@abrelectric]

SCCR- Short Circuit Current Rating. The suitability of an SPD for use on an AC power circuit that is capable of delivering not more than a declared rms symmetrical current at a declared voltage during a short circuit condition. SCCR is not the same as AIC (Amp Interrupting Capacity). SCCR is the amount of “available” current that the SPD can be subjected to and safely disconnect from the power source under short circuit conditions. The amount of current “interrupted” by the SPD is typically significantly less than the “available” current.

[@abrelectric]

www.ecmweb.com/power-quality-reliability/article/20900951/understanding-surge-protective-device-ratings

[@abrelectric]

Cousin Eddie made a great point about the rating of surge protectors, measured by joules (sounds like 'jewels'). A joule is a measurement of energy. In this case, how much energy a surge protector can absorb before failing. The standard Square D QO plug in breaker unit is rated at 960 Joules. The Cutler Hammer Ultra is rated at 2,820 joules.

[@chrisralston3027]

I appreciate your video, well done. However IMO the most significant spec of an SPD besides the surge current rating is the "Nominal Discharge Current Rating, or (In) rating": SPDs are marked with a Nominal Discharge Current Rating that is verified to ensure that the SPD is fully operational when subjected to 15 surges at the marked level. Nominal Discharge Current Ratings include 20 kA, 10 kA, 5 kA and 3 kA, and depends on the “Type” of SPD. We have had great success with DITEK's DTK-120/240HD, which unlike the Ultra, utilizes TPMOV's as the main surge component, whereas the Ultra uses older MOV technology. Big difference as TPMOV's are comprised of a voltage clamping device and a disconnecting apparatus that monitors the status of the metal oxide disc, making the TPMOV a fail-safe device. In the event of an overvoltage breakdown, the metal oxide disc is securely disconnected from the system power by an arc shield, meaning the SPD can't just sit there and melt due to a sustained over voltage or over current event. www.diteksurgeprotection.com/products/ac-power-protection/residential-power-protection/49-dtk-120-240hd?ic=1

[@Imwright720]

I have one on the main panel, each computer and both a/c units. Hopefully I’m good.

[@abrelectric]

Sounds like it! Keep an eye on the normal life expectancy (warranty) of each unit. Also, if you're using landlines or coax. You can put a surgery protector on those as well, since they can also be a path for current into the building

[@NasaRacer]

Thoughts on using the Intermatic as a Type 1 before the main breaker and without circuit breaker? It is an approved configuration. That is how I plan to install it.

[@abrelectric]

Which model are you going to install?

[@abrelectric]

Chris, after some thought, my only concern is how you connect the SPD to feeders without double lugging.

[@mitchw6693]

Don't understand the need for a breaker feeding the surge suppressor... seems that defeats the purpose when the breaker trips, as it must certainly do with a surge ??? Please explain...

[@abrelectric]

Mitch, an internal surge from a short circuit or circuit overload, will trip a breaker, like it's supposed to. However, a surge, or spike, from an external event (lightning for example), is both much faster and larger, and will blow right past the breaker. The breaker is typically required by the manufacturer of a type 2 SPD. A type 1 SPD can be installed without a breaker.

[@ChaplainDaveSparks]

Let me see if I understand this: _SCCR_ is how many amps it can absorb *AND SURVIVE,* _Surge Amps_ is how many amps it can absorb, even if it destroys the device?

[@mypanicbutton9194]

We have a main panel and a sub panel for appliances that can be powered by a backup generator (manual cutover). Do you have to install a separate surge protector for the sub panel as well?

[@abrelectric]

No, if the subpanel is powered from a feed breaker in the main panel with the SPD. However, if you did add an SPD in the sub, it would add another layer of protection.

[@benwah1854]

Sir... You mentioned the old Federal Pacific breaker boxes. I know what you are referring to, but could you *please* make a video about them? I don't think the general public knows too much about them and how flat-out dangerous they can be.

[@abrelectric]

I think we can :)

[@normferguson2769]

There are lots of FP commercial panels out there. The ones that are prone to failure are the Stab-loc panels.

[@ChaplainDaveSparks]

My situation is this - I don’t own my home and have no access nor permission to modify the electrical panel. I know that modern surge protection methodology is *STAGED* with a beefy unit at the panel, then smaller units to protect specific equipment on branch circuits. How beefy of a unit would it be advantageous to buy if its attachment to the main panel was, in essence, via ~ 30-50 feet of 12 or 14 AWG Romex? IOW, plugged into an outlet…

[@googleaccountuser6976]

Thanks. I have been researching a little. I had to call the electric company a few weeks ago...my power was surging up and down (lights, fan). They said they would look into it. Nothing else since than, but now my washer, dryer both about three years old, 70" tv (less than one year old) and security cameras (six months old) are all suddenly not working?!?! Suggestions appreciated!

[@abrelectric]

Did your Electric company get back to you? Many times, a utility wiring issue, at power pole, transformer, etc can cause problems in your house. Once they say their end is clear, you may to have an electrician out to nail down if there's a wiring issue or if all those items you mentioned are toast.

[@googleaccountuser6976]

@@abrelectric they came out and told me to get an electrician. He is supposed to come soon. Thanks

[@dhughes77365]

​@@abrelectric does the surge protector prevent this problem? I have had voltage rolls from normal 122v then drops to 100v back up to 129v and will do it all day.

[@abrelectric]

@dhughes77365 Holy crud! No, it won't fix that. You can install a power conditioner to help smooth out the peaks/valleys. And call your utility company to fix that.

[@googleaccountuser6976]

Its been a year, ive lost two more 70” tvs, and a freezer since posting this.

[@eugeneking4844]

Good video how ever why you did install one on your video

[@abrelectric]

@@eugeneking4844 I have done several SPD videos

[@09ThunderOne]

Can you make another video supplementing this that discusses clamping and let through voltage? I am not sure how the Eaton Ultra unit is on this. It says 600V but I thought closer to 330V was better, unless I am misunderstanding something.

[@abrelectric]

It is better, but harder to find with the higher surge current rating.

[@jankuehl4207]

Surge protection: Best wiring practice? If an appliance (Dishwasher) requires 13.5 Amps or less. Is it best to use the minimum code: 15A, 14Awg circuit and wire, or to upgrade (Future Proof) to 20A,12Awg circuit and wire. If a surge should occur does the 15A or 20A circuit provide more protection to the Dishwasher? Does the smaller 15A circuit provide better Appliance protection by limiting the current and amperage from breaker to Device/

[@abrelectric]

Depends on the surge: they vary in both amplitude and speed. The extra resistance provided by the smaller gauge wire is more of a mathematical fact than any real protection. The other factor in this scenario is the resilience of the circuit board electronics in the dishwasher.

[@stevenhilton2712]

Do you have any experience with Siemens first surge SPD or Siemens BoltShield QSPD? Any opinions on them would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the information in the video.

[@abrelectric]

Wow! The specs on both of those are impressive. I don't have any experience having installed those; however, both the surge amps and joules ratings are amazing.

[@1vw4me]

Siemens is basically the best right now.

[@Jaimejjb]

@@abrelectric what's the joule rating of the Siemens FirstSurge? I have been looking for that detail with no luck so far

[@jon4715]

Thanks for the heads up on this

[@MrSadlerd3]

HEPD80 says you can do a direct bus connection, no breaker. Any pros/cons to this install method vs adding a breaker?

[@abrelectric]

How do you do a direct bus connection? Usually that means double lugging the spd leads under the feeders.

[@MrSadlerd3]

@@abrelectric in the hepd80 instructions it has a diagram of connecting the black leads directly to the two screws under the main feed leads.

[@abrelectric]

@@MrSadlerd3 the only Pro is that you save spaces in the panel.

[@1doylelawson]

Great video. Thank you for taking the time in putting this together and sharing it. I do have a question. I have 400amps of service. Outdoors, I have two, 200a panels. One half (200a) is dedicated to my home's 100a sub panel (this panel is located inside my laundry room), my shop (60a) and pool (30a) and (the other 200a outside half is dedicated to my four hvac units). The first 200a half of my service has a 50a generator interlock kit installed. Is there any SPD devices that can protect with the interlock kit in place as it cannot be moved down due to the interlock kit needing to be integrated with the main 200a power breaker? Your advice and expertise is greatly appreciated !

[@abrelectric]

Doyle, SPD breaker can be located anywhere in your main panel. A lot of folks are of the opinion that the SPD has to be close to the main breaker. However, that's not what many manufacturers require in their installation instructions. Does that answer your question?

[@1doylelawson]

@@abrelectric Yes, it does. Thanks once again and especially for the quick response.

[@alambe7275]

Hello, thank you for your video on surge protectors for your home. I do have a question we have a GE panel breaker in our garage. How do you determine which or what type of whole home surge protector we need for that particular panel? Again, it is a GE panel

[@SolarEnima]

Thank you for this James! It looks like this video was made about two years ago. Since then, I think Eaton has come out with the 'Plug-In' BRPSURGE and BRNSURGE Type 2 SPD Surge Protectors. What do you think of these?

[@johnwhite2576]

I think the are great why? No need to worry about wires, wiring or pigtails/length put it in top slot on panel and you are maintaining shortest path possible. When it is sacrificed in a storm/surge, many DIY homeowners can pop a new one in. With better ratings than Intermatic surge guard.

[@danielreverter7453]

Fantastic video!! What's your opinion on the Square D HEPD80 when comparing it to the Eaton Ultra?

[@abrelectric]

The HEPD80 has a higher joules rating (3300 vs 2820), but lower surge amps (Eaton at 108,000 and HEPD at 80,000). I believe the Ultra has a limited lifetime warranty vs 5 years. It's a solid SPD for the price.

[@danielreverter7453]

@@abrelectric Thank you so much for responding! So then what's more important, the joules or surge amp ratings?

[@danielreverter7453]

@@abrelectric Thank you so much for responding! So what is more important, the joules or surge amps?

[@abrelectric]

@@danielreverter7453 both :). I would put preference on joules, as it measures the total energy that the protective device can absorb.

[@danielreverter7453]

@@abrelectric Thank you so much!!

[@leongcrumblin1523]

hello I am installed a intermatic surge protector outside on my disconnect for my ac compressor, will it also protected my house panel as well. ?

[@abrelectric]

Based on the install instructions for most of these units, no. You should install one at your main panel as well.

[@modquad18]

Dang it, I’ve got one vacant SP slot available in my SquareD panel 😫

[@spuddy_bud]

I have a main panelboard which includes the meter and the main disconnect for 200 amps. This box has room for only 8 breakers but also has pass-thru lugs at the bottom of the box. These pass-thru lugs carry power (200 amps) to a subpanel. The main panelboard as well as the subpanel are Square D. Do I install the whole house surge protector in the main panelboard or the subpanel or both. Please advise.

[@abrelectric]

Minimum at the main panel.

[@P0LSKI]

Excellent video! Thanks! You mention to "Move on..." with a 10Ka SCCR, yet you recommend the Smart Guard which is only 10Ka SCCR. What gives?

[@abrelectric]

The beauty of the Smart Guard is the replaceable modules, not its level of protection. It's an issue of what's a priority for the home owner

[@P0LSKI]

@@abrelectric I see. Thanks for the prompt response. I wouldn't think that this is something that a homeowner would have to do very often--monitor your home's circuit breaker panels. Seems like more peace of mind by going with a much higher SCCR.

[@scottymagillacutty]

I have a panel outside that has a few breakers for outside lighting as well as a 150 amp breaker that supplies power to a panel in the house. That outside panel has room for extra breakers but the panel inside my house with all of the breakers for everything inside the house has no room for a double pole breaker. Will I be protected if I instal the surge protector on the outside panel that supplies the inside panel?

[@abrelectric]

If you install it at the main breaker panel outside, everything downstream should be protected

[@j3506]

Would it provide 2x the protection if I were to install this on a panel 30ft away from the house that connects directly to the transformer/smartmeter, and then also on a panel that's attached to the outside of my house which is where that original panel I mentioned connects to the house? I live in a high lightning prone area and want to decrease my chances as best as possible.

[@abrelectric]

2x? I don't know, but it will provide another layer of protection

[@gman3725]

Any disadvantage to using a breaker style whole home surge protector? Like a QSA2020SPD

[@abrelectric]

If you just need basic surge protection, no disadvantage: they're inexpensive and easy to install. The QSA2020 has space saver tandem breakers added so you're not losing spaces. If you want a higher level of protection, then go with a stand alone spd, like Siemens, Eaton, etc

[@mikemalone6103]

One thing… if I get a surge that doesn’t exceed the surge protectors rating, will it still require replacement? Secondly, will I still need point of use protection devices for let’s say the fridge and AC?

[@abrelectric]

Most manufacturers have indicator lights or audible alarm (FS140) when the unit is damaged. Otherwise, I would replacement with an eye on the warranty. Point of use SPDs add another layer, after the main panel spd. It's not a bad idea and doesn't add that much to the cost.

[@meeponinthbit3466]

The warranty sounds like a joke on the Eaton: 3. Failure due to direct lightning strikes and temporary over-voltage are not covered. Any thoughts/feedback on that? Over-voltage is a surge.... WTF, right?

[@meeponinthbit3466]

Well nevermind... You already addressed this for us. :) Think I'll go FS140 instead. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWq8pYSLqp2AnsU

[@rboren10]

I'm planning to install the Eaton ultra on my panel, but am also considering installing the intermatic AG3000 surge protector on my outside AC unit after most of the parts on my outside unit went out possibly due to a power surge. I'm just wondering if that is necessary or if the Eaton ultra will offer plenty of protection?

[@abrelectric]

Both is a great idea. The extra layer won't hurt at all

[@hangngoaigiare]

i think change our panel mandatory surge protector too. My question for you is do we have to use the breaker type surge protector if we can use any brand of surge protector ? what is consider a whole house one? listing?

[@abrelectric]

You can use any kind of whole house surge protector: Eaton Ultra, Siemens F140 are good examples and give you better protection than the breaker style units.

[@masterchiefmasterchieflopez]

Thank you

[@mack9107]

What is your solution on installing the CHULTRA inside a panel that is in a finished? I.E. sheet rocked around the panel. I just recently installed the BRNSURGE to my panel. The problem with the CHULTRA from a finished stand point there is no where to mount that unit to keep an eye on the light indicator. Main reason my I went with the BRNSURGE.

[@abrelectric]

Eaton has a flush mount plate for the Ultra. I typically install it under the panel through a 1/2" ko with a rigid coupling and chase nipple

[@mack9107]

@@abrelectric I may look into that once the one I have now goes out. What is the part number for that plate? Also my box is recessed in the wall as well so is there another solution or would the wall have to be ripped out to install parts?

[@abrelectric]

@@mack9107 Cutler Hammer CHSPFMKIT Flushmount Kit.

[@kristanlucas5144]

Excellent video. We have lost 4 refrigerators in the last 5 years, and we just found out about whole house surge protectors. Given our losses so far, we want to buy the absolute best whole house surge protector without money being a concern. What do you suggest is the absolute best? We're desperate. The power here is terrible with frequent offs and ons, so we need to act as fast as possible. Also, we have 2 electrical panels. Should we get 2 surge protectors? I think that we don't have room in the boxes, but an electrician is coming out today to see what we have to do. He's not overly familiar with whole house surge protectors, so I'd very much appreciate your input.

[@abrelectric]

My top 2 favorites are the Siemens FS140 and the Eaton Ultra. My nod goes to the FS140 for higher protection level and longer warranty. I have a good supply of the FS140 if end up going that way. If each of your panels has its own main breaker, each should have its own protector. I have a few installation videos that may be helpful to your electrician. The directions are fairly simple. Also, consider changing the plugs behind the refrigerators to surge plugs, to add another layer of protection. Thank you for asking, and thank you for watching our channel!

[@dutchleussink156]

Thank You Sir 👍

[@lawrenceanderson6167]

Not a bad video, but gee, it was so blurry, I could not read the whiteboard. I could not read the naME OF THE FIRST surge protector and you have listed a different one

[@JohnSmith-uz3dt]

Is there such a thing as oversizing a surge protector for home use?

[@abrelectric]

I don't think so. However, the low-end let through voltage may an issue. At what point does the surge protector do its job? How much voltage will it let through first?

[@diggler64]

I just had a power failure in my neighbourhood (caused by wind) and when it came back 6 Apple 20 watts power bricks (homepods/ipad) and two zigbee plugs (home automation) were dead. Now if I install one of these devices will it self destruct to protect my equipment or only redirect/eliminate the surge ? (if it self destruct there is a break even point I need to consider ... considering how rare these events are for me)

[@davegill3958]

My electrician is putting in a EATON CHSPT2ULTRA surge protector. He says that it is the replacement for the Cutter & Hammer model you suggest. Is that correct? Also he plans to put it at the bottom of the panel so as to not to have to move all the other breakers. Will it be less effective at the bottom?

[@abrelectric]

The Eaton Ultra will work in any panel - so, yes. It will be fine at the bottom of the panel, he just needs to follow the installation guidelines for keeping the wires short and as straight as possible.

[@clownwrld7]

what about a room i have the power outlets will spike randomly, or somehow the electricy seems to come out. ill hear a noise (like a crack noise) and i will feel the shock when im laying down. Very annoying. I plugged in a surge protector to two different areas. It was working the first couple days and now they seem to have already burnt out and not stopping me from getting shocked.

[@loduke3905]

Great video but I must add a very import part to this…ALMOST ALL WHOLE HOME SURGE PROTECTORS MUST BE INSTALLED BY A CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN or their WARRANTY IS NULL AND VOID. Also, MORE IMPORTANTLY Amazon is considered a “THIRD PARTY SELLER” and unless they have authorization, they also are NOT A CERTIFIED RETAILER. This is the case for MANY (and I mean almost ALL) MAJOR BRANDS AND! they will NOT HONOR ANY WARRANTY CLAIM from them. I know we all like to use Amazon due to it’s convenience, the platform is easy and shipping is free BUT! there are ALOT of items sold on the platform that DO NOT HAVE AUTHORIZATION TO SELL THE BRANDS THAT THEY DO! Amazon gets away with this by being a platform for “Sellers” which is simply a “reseller” they are considered a 3rd party and because of that, they do NOT get the benefit’s as they are NOT an authorized seller or retailer. I can personally attest to this as a GSM for Home Depot, our Milwaukee brand is constantly being sold on Amazon (usually for the same price if not higher) the only company that is authorized to sell our products are… US. Meaning that a customer purchasing product’s through Amazon that are NOT A CERTIFIED RETAILER have basically purchased a product for the same price with absolutely NO QUALITY ASSURANCE AND ZERO WARRANTY. This happens ACROSS THE BOARD on soooooo many items and brands that it’s insane and further more that people aren’t outraged by it. It’s one thing when you’re buying a knock off item, some massed produced unknown cheap Chinese product that’s under $100, Amazon will MORE THAN LIKELY honor a warranty claim BUT! not when you’re talking about name brand tools, your electronics, cell phones, your home’s electric panel and so so much more. If you’re going to spend the money and are making a large purchase specifically on expensive item’s one’s that could possibly cause a fire, or cost several hundred dollars MAKE SURE YOUR ARE BUYING FROM THE RETAILER, READ THE FINE PRINT ON PRODUCT PAGES, ASK THE QUESTION AND SPEND THE EXTRA 5 MINUTES RESEARCHING THE BRAND AND WHAT THE WARRANTY STIPULATES. Check the CONSUMER PROTECTION BUREAU’S WEBSITE, CHECK OUT BBB, that should give you some insight into how the company will handle YOUR complications. Please note that most of these items being purchased on Amazon cost just as much if not more and provide you ZERO of the benefits you get from buying it from the actual store, also HD, LOWES, BEST BUY, TARGET and even Walmart have put the money into their online businesses as their shipping is free, usually very fast and you can return the same as Amazon “scheduling a UPS pick up at your home” or returning back to the store. Note: I use Amazon all the time and I think it’s a valuable service that has a place in the market, I am glad it’s around and I think it makes retailer’s have to up their game and invest better into it’s service as well as be innovative. But! I wish they would be more UPFRONT about what the platform is, the brands being listed that are not AUTHORIZED RETAILERS and instead are “resellers”. I really dislike the deceptiveness Amazon uses and they should be TRANSPARENT on how it will impact the customer when they want to use the warranty they paid for but aren’t able to because they weren’t aware they had purchased from a platform that uses resellers and is considered a THIRD PARTY. At the minimum there should be a note (clear to see) on the product page that states it’s a third party seller and not an authorized seller of whatever the brand is, that by purchasing the item via Amazon the item is NOT eligible for the MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY. Below is a simple example of what I mean, this was taken off the Eaton Home Surge Protector suggested from Amazon: I employ anyone to look at the BBB and CPB to see the complaints associated with what I am saying. Cheers 🤘🏻 * 1.0 out of 5 stars Manufacturer warranty is VOID Reviewed in the United States on September 14, 2020 Verified Purchase I spoke with EatonCare today regarding a defect warranty claim. I was told that Amazon is not an authorized retailer nor is any seller on Amazon and any warranty claim would not be granted. I recommend the Siemens surge protector, they will honor Amazon purchases.

[@abrelectric]

Great info. With any warranty, it's worth the time to read the Terms and Conditions for yourself.

[@jimmybeee5]

Hi, I have a 200 amp Residencial service. I also gave a 100 amp automatic transfer switch. All of our critical/sensitive loads are fed from the transfer switch. I recently acquired a square D 25kA surge protector. Do you recommend installing this this unit on the load side of the transfer switch?

[@abrelectric]

That's a good question. I recommend installing it in the main 200 amp panel. The critical loads will still be protected when on the 'utility' side of the transfer, as a normal subpanel.

[@bettiedonner]

Will a whole house surge suppressor provide coverage during an emp?

[@abrelectric]

No, they won't. There are devices on the market that claim to provide protection against EMP damage.

[@pronfl3112]

@@abrelectric What devices do you recommend for whole home EMP protection?

[@aayotechnology]

So what happens with these units if it goes above the designed sccr & amps with a spike, surge etc? Do your appliances get fried? And at what point do they trip? I’m guessing not that top rated number.

[@abrelectric]

Most home SPDs are one shot units - if the surge is large enough, it will kill the unit, and have to be replaced. Intermatic SmartGuard has replaceable modules, but not as high a rating. If the surge is large enough or fast enough, it may fry your appliances; however, it will likely kill the SPD while being deflected to ground. So, no tripping, per se. But an all or none scenario - it held or it didn't. Because there's no way of know the characteristics of each surge, you go for the best rating you can.

[@aayotechnology]

@@abrelectric ok, so the amp rating is just how much it can hold back before the dam breaks. The higher the better. I guess then my confusion is... what happens well below the maximum? Do they trip acting like a breaker and protecting the panel? Thank you

[@abrelectric]

@@aayotechnology hopefully, nothing happens, if the surge is well below the SPD max. Disaster averted:)

[@JuanGarcia-kv7yv]

Will one of these units stop a load popping sound when my ac kicks in that I hear when my sound system is on? I don’t want this to damage my expensive stereo equipment, I.e., the spike or popping that occurs when the HVAC system turns on. Any help is appreciated

[@abrelectric]

Juan, I don't believe a surge protector will help with this. My limited experience with sound systems, there is usually an issue with the ground. Also, an older motor (AC, refrigerator, etc) will often feed back into your ele trial system. A line conditioner on your stereo may help more. Happy hunting:)

[@SpiraSpiraSpira]

No. If you want to prevent this you can use an isolation transformer, either on the AC or on the sound system. If nothing else in your house responds poorly to when the compressor kicks on it would be cheaper to get the one on the sound system because you would need a large 240 volt isolation transformer for the AC system itself. You’re looking at $80-$150 for a isolation transformer for up to 250W of output which would be more than enough for most stereos (I dearly hope so.)

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

HOWdy AbreLectric, ... Thanks ... how about Midnite Solar brand - ie: MNSPD-600 600V SURGE PROTECTOR DEVICE ? ... 0 - 485 VAC /// clamp voltage @ 100amp 1290 volts /// 115 kA (full device) /// 57 kA (each section) /// Energy Absorption 4320 J /// Curiuos as it is LISTED as both an AC & DC Surge Protector Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...

[@abrelectric]

Alfred Neuman! I missed you...

[@abrelectric]

The specs look good. I don't have any experience with the MNSPD-600 otherwise.

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

@@abrelectric - I assume this brand is more common with Off-Grid & Hybrid Solar users = just Curious = thanks for your video COOP ...

[@tirivaenim]

How can I protect my AC input from the grid from brownouts? Is there a device that can do this automatically?

[@abrelectric]

From brownouts? A power conditioner for 240 volt 30 amp output? A generator with an automatic transfer switch? To be honest I've never considered this scenario.

[@SpiraSpiraSpira]

You would need a uninterruptable home generator or battery system. If you’re just worried about intermittent brown outs a battery system is definitely the way to go as generators can be pricey. Tesla’s battery wall is an example of this type of product but there are many other companies that offer similar products. If you are only worried about one or two devices and not your whole system then the best solution is just an in-line UPS system (you plug the UPS into the wall and then your devices into the UPS) - generally they guarantee 20 minutes or so of power and are much less expensive than a whole home solution. I have one of these for my computers, wifi and cable modem, for example. The most expensive of these solutions would be an uninterruptable home generator powered by natural gas piped in from the utility so it has unlimited run time - hospitals use this type of setup and it can cost $50,000 or more. A desk based UPS is like $200.

[@tirivaenim]

@@SpiraSpiraSpira Thanks for the response. I guess it is the cheapest option that is always preferable with the quality to match. I think with UPSs over time one also needs to replace its battery. I have a small one who’s battery now needs replacement & Covid lockdowns and travel restrictions are not helping as it’s cheaper to actually travel & get it done than ordering the battery. Long story, I’m in Africa.

[@SpiraSpiraSpira]

@@tirivaenim Youre correct about the UPS batteries going over time. There is a youtuber that makes videos about taking 18650 cells salvaged from thrown away laptops and other electronics and making his own DIY home battery system. HBPowerwall I think is his name. If you had the ability to do some work yourself for Africa I would create a DIY PV solar system and battery backup. You can buy PV cells cheaply from China, and something similar to what HBPowerwall does for the battery component. I guess it would depend on how much space you have. In Africa you have a lot of sun so it would be a shame not to make use of it. The nice part about a DIY solar system is that you could expand it slowly over time buying bits here and there if you need to.

[@tirivaenim]

@@SpiraSpiraSpira challenge in most African countries is high import tariffs even for the cheapest of components which stifles innovation at most times. So people are eventually stuck with getting finished new products.

[@gielectric626]

Q: Do these newer surge protectors in homes protect the entire electrical system on the load side of the homes Hydro meter? Even if the panel it’s installed into is a sub panel, or fed from a splitter box and is in parallel with other panels, both fed from a common supply? What about protection of circuits with an AFCI or GFCI breakers or receptacles connected? Thanks for any help you might have.

[@abrelectric]

You asked several questions:) The location of the SPDs definitely affects how well they perform. Our assumption typically is that the surge/spike is coming from the utility lines. AFCI/GFCI are vulnerable because they operate using circuit boards and current transformers. I recommend layers of protection, from the main service to point of use.

[@gielectric626]

@@abrelectric thanks for your response. my understanding of sine wave is this: generated sine waves and the surges that may affect them, whether internal or external will affect everything that that sine wave sees simultaneously. AC is alternating and thus direction of the source of the surge , internal or external should not matter to an AC SPD. Since the load current does not go thru the SPD, how can the direction of the surge matter to the SPD, or what it’s protecting? I have to say I think that these devices do not work as the customers would like to believe. They are a cheap gimmick to provide contractors work and consumers with false hope…lol Thanks again for your answer and time.

[@gggromay]

do brakes not function as surge protection?

[@01waterwalker]

I'm looking at the IG2280-OM for my whole home coverage. However having trouble finding the IG120RSM20 Module Replacement for IG2280 Series. Do you have any recommendations for retailers for this item? Amazon does not carry the replacement models.

[@abrelectric]

Check with any Electric wholesale suppliers in your area who are Intermatic dealers. Is that the only module that will work with the IG2280?

[@billcowhig5739]

I am installing a 3-ton Bosch inverter driven heat pump in the very near future. They require surge protection for their inverter, etc., electronics, located just downstream of the disconnect, and recommended two specific models. Their "favorite" is ICM493, a Type 2CA SPD with SCCR of 10kA, VPR 6kV at 3kA 8/20 microsec. It has five MOVs, so 4 can go bad before you need to get ready to replace the SPD. I am wondering if you might have had any experience with these that you might be willing to share before I buy one?

[@abrelectric]

Bill, I've got nothing! No experience on this one. I can only agree that it's probably wise to go with their recommendation. That particular SPD has great reviews. Out of curiosity, what is the model # of that Bosch Inverter heat pump?

[@3aOpinion]

Thank you so much!!

[@gldf111]

Hi. I have a 200 amp main panel and another 200 amp sub panel next to it. Do I need 2 surge protectors or just 1 in the main panel.

[@abrelectric]

Is the 2d panel a true subpanel (fed out of the 1st with a breaker) or tapped from the meter?

[@gldf111]

It might be tapped. Not 100% sure. I have not looked inside yet. But Each panel has a 4 legged 200 amp main breaker on the top. It’s a Ge panel.

[@abrelectric]

@@gldf111 it's likely both 200a MBs are tapped from the meter, in which case you would need a surge protector in each.

[@gldf111]

Any ideals on hooking up a generator using the interlock kits?

[@abrelectric]

@@gldf111 Interlock kits are the simplest way to add back-up power to your house. The challenges can be: managing the loads yourself during operation (shutting off circuits that will overload the generator), having an easy start generator, having a generator with fuel that stores well long term, having a level spot for the generator to run with good ventilation.

[@jking3vy-pnw]

How much electric companies charge to install this in a home??

[@abrelectric]

It varies by state or region. In some locations, the utility company will install them.

[@abrelectric]

Also will depend on the unit, whether basic or high spec, type 1 or type 2

[@alannormand9384]

Soooo what we rear/hear from this lesson, that the garbage that enters our homes via the POWER COMPANY @ 22+ ct. per kwh is sometimes dirty spiley or surgey.. For what we pay to the (Eversource ) Provider THIS SOULD be there responsibility .. Why not premote this instead of the homeowner...!!! Make sence...of this. is...

[@brewerth]

I just had a circuit wired into my panel for a non-inverter portable generator. I know these are potentially dangerous to modern electronics. Would a surge protector like this safeguard my equipment?

[@abrelectric]

Yes. However, the quality of the generator will affect the quality of the power output, in terms of surge or sags. Also, quality surge strips at point of use will help add a layer of protection.

[@ScottDLR]

No. This will only effect small, short term spikes - in the milliseconds range. It will not help with a dirty sine wave or surge that lasts a longer amount of time. It will do nothing for a direct lightening strike.

[@camarosspr]

Intermatic 2280 big brother

[@datsuntoyy]

Will a surge protector on an air conditioner protect the home from surges caused by the compressor starting or stopping? We have 2 a/c’s, both have DTK 120/240 cm+ on their fuse box. Thinking of installing a surge protector on the main as well. Siemens, Eaton or Square D.

[@abrelectric]

Surges can be tricky, both in their point of entry into the home and their speed. I would agree with installing a unit in your main panel as well. Be sure to look at the warranty and their claim process, as they vary between manufacturers.

[@mitchw6693]

Want to send you a couple photos of my panel... what address ?

[@abrelectric]

Mitch, what am I looking for?

[@dumpsterking88]

Do I need a surge protector for each of my (3) 200 amp panels and my (3) 100 amp subpanels? Or should I buy one "master" unit and install it upstream from my ATS?

[@abrelectric]

I recommend putting one at each 200 amp panel. Subpanels won't need them. However, on the other hand you could install one at the ATS, if you can install it and meet the manufacturer's requirements, in terms of a breaker.

[@jon4715]

@@abrelectric What if you have a source panel outside where power comes in, then a main house panel inside with a subpanel, and then another main panel next to the hvac units?

[@abrelectric]

@@jon4715 when you say main panel, I think you mean a panel with a main breaker, immediately after the utility meter. The panel is where you'll install your level 2 SPD. The subpanels down stream from the main panel aren't as effective locations for SPDs.

[@jon4715]

@@abrelectric Understood...I think. So the house panels with all my appliances and electronics (inside) and the hvac panels (ouside) are both technically subpanels for that panel where the power comes in with the large breakers. Do you place a SPD next to the panel next to the incoming power, or two separate SPD's next to the indoor panel and the hvac panel? Basically, do you want one as far upstream as possible, or do you want multiple ones on all of the larger panels (because there is so much power on the hvac panel alone)? Thank you, I know, kind of a funny question.

[@abrelectric]

@@jon4715 is the HVAC panel fed directly from the meter or the another panel ? BTW, many people do install an additional spd at the AC disconnect

[@sunvirdi]

Great advise, what kind of surge protector do I need if I need to protect commercial equipment costing 400-500k ( similar to Intermatic). Do I need to protect all phases l1, l2,l3.

[@abrelectric]

Yes, all 3 phases, at the service and at point of use.

[@sunvirdi]

@@abrelectriccan you recommend something.

[@abrelectric]

@@sunvirdi what is your voltage?

[@abrelectric]

@@sunvirdi ASI ASISP320-3P 3 Phase Surge Suppressor, 1449 4th Ed. DIN Rail Mount, Screw Clamp Terminals This is for 480/277v. Please go to the ASI website.

[@groundedinreal]

Good Video.

[@lilyrosedaisy2003]

What about Siemens fs140 products? Are they any good?

[@abrelectric]

Yes, they are! The FS140 is nearly always listed in the top 3 of comparisons. The audible warning is unique and handy.

[@jimpintchuk8058]

Nice job Thank you

[@vince6829]

Thanks for sharing

[@iberianlion1459]

Can they be used on 3 phase panel?

[@abrelectric]

No, you'll need a 3 phase surge protector. There are quite a few out there, just like with the singke phase residential versions we've been discussing

[@jaypruitt2110]

Can the intermattic be used on a outdoor panel?

[@abrelectric]

Yes, you need to order it with the outdoor enclosure

[@mihirpatel3754]

Do you recommend type 1 and type 2 surge protection for home?

[@abrelectric]

The 2020 NEC requires at least one - whether 1 or 2. Practically, both could provide another layer of protection, if they are designed to work together. By the same thinking, a Type 3 at point of use would add another layer as well. Ultimately, it depends on the value of what your protecting and what the threat really is.

[@mihirpatel3754]

@@abrelectric Thank you for the prompt response. I'm definitely getting the Eaton you recommended. But if I want to add extra layer of protection, which type 1 device would you recommend? I have a server rack with expensive equipments like audio equipments, network devices, etc.. Do I need to buy Q250 50-Amp Double Pole Type QP Circuit Breaker with the Eaton?

[@abrelectric]

@@mihirpatel3754 for the Ultra for the maximum protection, you need a 2 pole 50 amp breaker. In addition to Tupe 2, you can add a layer at point of use, whether in a high quality surge strip, or a durge receptacle. Type 1 may be limited by what your utlity company will alow to be installed at the meter socket.

[@mitchw6693]

I have couple photos to send with a question, need email

[@abrelectric]

Mitch, you can send your photos to [e-mail].

[@Apu_fahd]

God territory 👍

[@abrelectric]

Absolutely

[@JSLEnterprises]

Whole Home Surge Protectors DO NOT protect against DIRECT lightning strikes to your home/stack.

[@abrelectric]

I agree! I don't know of anything that can withstand a DIRECT hit from lightning.

[@jkbrown5496]

True, the protection from lightening is from nearby lightening that induces a current in the wiring, not a direct strike. As with any induced currents, such as from motors switching off, when the current runs into an open switch or a transistor, the voltage will rise due to the high resistance until it arcs over or blows the semiconductor. The surge protector provides a low resistance path between hot and neutral after the design voltage is reached. This allows the current a parallel path around the protected circuits where it dissipates due to wire and ground electrode resistance.

[@vince6829]

What about a lightning arrestor?

[@davidperry4013]

@@jkbrown5496A type 1 surge protection device normally sits on the meter base, the outside disconnect, or between the meter and meter socket will protect it but it would inevitably be destroyed in the process of protecting your electronics.

[@Bob-cx4ze]

​@@davidperry4013Sounds like a reasonable tradeoff.

[@ColdWarVet607]

"The amount of power released into your house from a lighting strike, who knows." God Knows, the Lighting Knows and if you are touching something metal, You'll Know Too!

[@abrelectric]

Knowing in a way you can't unlearn