AC Vents and Speakers - GTO RestoMod (Ep 61)

[@douglashart5059]

Boy Mark I'm really impressed with your fabrication work. The vents and the speaker mount came out great!!

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Doug. Weather is starting to cool down a little. Any progress to report on the truck?

[@chriskappes9170]

Love fhese videos really look forward to them

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Chris, I really appreciate the nice comment.

[@joemartocci7907]

Awesome fab work

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Joe. I am still finding stuff I forgot about...

[@mattsteffee]

Nice job as always Mark. the Buick paint was delayed once or twice with little things missed. I feel your pain with the arm pit dingle berry, I grabbed the mig torch from my Son while showing him how to weld, and forgot to put on my gloves and had a hot one get on my gold wedding ring. Talk about a burning ring of fire. I now only were silicon rings.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Matt. I have a dingle berry still in my foot from helping my dad. Burned through my sneaker and down into my foot when he was using the cutting torch. I wasn't allowed to flinch or jump when one hit me so I toughed it out. Showed up on an x-ray once, told the doc "that's a dingle berry" I spent the next five minutes explaining what a dingle berry is to doctors and nurses. How is reassembly of the Buick coming?

[@lazyhoundracing9621]

My favorite dingle berries are the ones that go in your ear so you can hear them sizzle.

[@jackcirrito3458]

🤣😵‍💫🤣 ¡Great story! 1st job in high school was in welding job shop…..holding stuff was an art unto itself. Nice work Amigo.

[@mattsteffee]

@FoothillPaintandFabrication it's coming along, still have some cut and buff to do. The hood is on and the weatherstriping is on the doors so they're next. It's crazy hot here in Ok so I have to get out of the shop around 11 or 12.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@jackcirrito3458 Gracias Jack, I loved metal and auto shop in school.

[@bradjohnston2102]

Mark, the A/C vents are left & right. They are marked at the top screw hole dash side

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

Thanks Brad, I will look them over carefully and figure out which one goes where. Hopefully I didn't sand off the lettering all those years ago.

[@lazyhoundracing9621]

Great work Mark. It's hard to resist getting some paint on the old girl the little stuff will bite you in the rear if you don't get it done.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

I feel like I have been doing little stuff for 3 years! It eats up so much time with little to show for it. I am glad most of the work up front is done for sure. How is the frame coming along? Send me pics when you get a chance.

[@lazyhoundracing9621]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I have the smaller wheel just about ready to paint. Now I need to mock up the EPAS Performance electric power steering and the Howe 1;1.5 steering quickener before I can pull the cab. The steering quickener has about a 1/4" offset on the shaft ends so that's a bit of a challenge. I'm offsetting it upwards so it tucks up into the dash groove on my 53 3100. The quickener needs to go between the EPAS and the wheel.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@lazyhoundracing9621 That column goes down at a pretty steep angle factory, what column are you using?

[@lazyhoundracing9621]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Im using my original Column and steering box for a more original look. That's why I wanted the steering quickener and the smaller steering wheel. The EPAS unit I'm using is model specific and tucks up under the dash. I don't know if the rules require it but I think I'll put a section of collapsible shaft in it. I used the late 50's dished truck wheel so I could use the self cancelling turn signal mech and install the Dakota Digital cruise control handle on it.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@lazyhoundracing9621 Sounds like a cool set up. Did you have to rebuild the steering gearbox? Seems like it would be a little sloppy in the middle.

[@midnighttutor]

Hey could you give me your two cents on a body work question unrelated to this video? What do you do when you burn through the primer in small spots like size of quarter or couple inches of edge when you are doing final sanding with 400 grit? I think I could spend a hundred years re spot priming, sanding with 400 and burning through again, and again, etc. The panels are flat/smooth, used a long hard block with 80 and then 180 no issues...we are talking a few thousandths of deviation here. Any thoughts you have on how to break this cycle (or just ignore it -- I am putting on 2K sealer before base coat) would be most greatly appreciated! Thank you.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

No problem and it happens to all of us so don't beat yourself up. Do you use dry guide coat? I love the stuff for helping find low spots, sand scratches and to also let me know when I have thoroughly sanded an area so I don't over sand and burn through. If you are using it and have a few very small spots you may be able to apply the 2K sealer right over the area but it does depend on the sealer and what the data sheets say. Many will state you can apply over bare steel if it is very small like you mentioned. Adhesion is rarely a concern, rust is the biggest problem because paint does absorb moisture (even automotive paint) and that moisture could reach those areas. Another trick is to use a fine scotch brite pad (gray pad) to scuff those trouble areas that are flat and smooth but just need to be scuffed. If you haven't been using dry guide coat get some as it will make your project come out so much better. Did I answer your question?

[@midnighttutor]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thank you so much for these great suggestions. I do use guide coat, sometimes dry and sometimes spray on since the dry stuff will not stick to a new primer paint job, to get to 180 and everything is fine at that point. It is when I go to 400 that some spots appear. Should I skip 400 and go right to 600 in these spots? My concern is keeping everything flat at the same time.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@midnighttutor You can jump to 600 as long as you are able to sand out the orange peel from the primer. Dry guide coat will help with that. If it won't stick well scuff the area real quick with a scotch Brite pad. Are you using a sanding block or sanding pad? By hand or machine?

[@midnighttutor]

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thanks again! I will try that. Depending on whether the surface is totally flat or has some shape I use either a hard block, hard block with hook loop that gives it a little flex, or hook loop mirka DA 3mm orbit. I am using PPG VP2050 high build epoxy primer. In the past I just ignored these tiny burn throughs but on this project I really want to do the best job I can, restoring an 89 bronco that I bought new in 89.

[@FoothillPaintandFabrication]

@@midnighttutor Once I get the panel straight and flat and just need smooth for the base coat/clear coat a back off blocking and concentrate on just getting that super smooth surface. If you sand correctly with the correct fine grits you shouldn't be able to sand a wave or low spot in. Laying down a nice smooth primer surface helps a lot. Good luck