@@macho4x4warlock98 Thank you, I appreciate that generous comment. Just trying to keep it real and do good work.

@@JohnnieBravo1 Thanks Jonnie. Having a dad that owned a Pontiac dealership would come in second to having Hueh Heffner as a dad😁 This will be a dream come true for me. Thanks for sticking with me through the build and good luck on your editing project.

@@RonWatson-b6u Thanks Ron. I always want to be several videos ahead but that rarely happens. You guys see the work usually days after I do it. Yes I will be staying Pontiac power plant. I have a 400 and a 428 but will probably use the 400. LS motors are really nice but just aren't for me. So many LS swaps at the car shows it is getting overdone for me plus I love the torque of the Pontiac engines.

Thank you, I try my best and try and be real on the channel. I feel good about how it is all going.

Thank you Michael. I wish I had gotten more done in a year and a half like we all do but I feel good about the progress so far.

Thank you so much for that Robert, it is why I started the channel. I always say "If that guy can do it I can too" Maybe not as good but pretty darn good. You are doing wonderful work on Pops and come spring time you will be going strong as you build up your confidence and skill level.

Thank you Randal. I am very thankful for everything I have.

Thank you Ken, still using the wife's account I see 😁 I am happy I have been of some help to you on your projects.

Thank you Rodney. I will be changing gears from all that grinding and welding to sanding. I kind of miss it but I don't at the same time. First holiday without my buddy. He was at my side so long and seeing him in so many clips putting this together was a little sad.

Thank you, I plan on making it a great day. Lots more to do but feel good about what we have accomplished.

Thank you so much. Going through all the clips putting this together made me miss Jake even more. He was a good dog.

Thank you. Do the dogs get stuffing too or just turkey?

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication It's just me and my Basset Hounds Joseph and Mary. They will be getting fried chicken and the trimmings for dinner. Mary is a little picky on her vegetables but Joseph will eat anything that has any possibility of being food. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.

Thanks Doug, same to you and yours. You have some really good news to be thankful for this year. Onward and upward!

Thanks Robert Yes we are very lucky here as far as weather goes. Been raining for 3 days which is needed but is sucky. Many shops do it exactly like you are, get the metal prepped and in epoxy and then do patch panels and sheet metal work. On the old cars and trucks bending hinges was often the "adjustment" method. Kind of scary but it does work when other methods do not. Nothing more satisfying as a nice closing door.

I didn’t know that bending the hinges was an “accepted” method of adjustment. I may need to put some heat on two of these to get last bit of adjusting done. I’m also glad to hear that other guys are doing things the way I was forced to do them. I’m working alone with only my KZbin advisors to help out! Appreciate the great info.

@@robertmazzei2412 The hinge adjustment is in the service manual. They employ 2x4s for hood adjustment and bending door hinges, just kept it simple back then.

@@robertmazzei2412 I replied to you on this but it didn't post... It is in the service manual on adjusting the doors. They have 2x4's under the hood and pushing the hood down for adjustment and all kinds of old school "acceptable methods". Of course those are more of a last resort kind of thing but you have to do what you have to do. Back in 49 if the doors closed and stayed closed it was good enough but of course we want way better than that.

@@trahar6257 I definitely need to get one. Never used one before. Which one do you recommend?

@ All the cheap ones are just a piece of stainless with a flange and hole in middle which do work but are never flat so it bounces and not easy to control. Pro shaper sells them with a backing plate that probably helps but I’ve never used one. The best ones I’ve seen in shops but are very hard to find almost looked like hardend steel with some other metal bonded to it looking almost like a clutch on like the last inch of the disc. A company called sunchaser makes a $200 dollar stainless one that the edge is rippled I’m sure would work good. Nothing beats them for exactly what you’re doing here

@@trahar6257 Thank you so much I appreciate the help. I will look for one and put it on my Christmas list.

Thanks Paul. Luckily I have way more patience than when I was a youngster.

Glad you liked it. Why would I pull the trigger and wave the gun around like I was spraying a control coat? Just wasteful and puts more epoxy on the ground instead of the panel.

All respect and sincerity, not just trying to poop on your birthday cake. If you have a 4' panel why wouldn't you just do it in one pass? You wouldn't use more paint as you wouldn't have double coverage in the middle where you have to rewet it.

@@wolfhobbies No worries. I was focused on coverage of the epoxy not speed. The area I sprayed first I wanted a little more build because it needs it. Spraying epoxy or urethane or any heavy bodied material coverage and build is what I focus on. Just saw an Eastwood video of a guy using a roller on a fender laying down urethane primer I think. It did the trick and he blocked it out but I think I will stick to a spray gun even with my rookie skills. 😁

Thank you David, I appreciate the generous comment. There are so many way better than I am but I do my best and try and do things right instead of just enough and cover it up. I have been planning this build in my head for over 30 years so taking my time now is the smart move.

That is who I took the car to, Metal Works in Eugene. Bo and his crew were awesome to work with and did a wonderful job on my GTO. It was a long haul but Bo worked with me and even let me leave my trailer in their yard while I went off to visit a good friend in Idaho while I was waiting for the process to be completed. Give him a call and see how far out they are. I had to wait about 12 weeks before they could get me in. You won't regret getting the car dipped, best decision I made on the whole project.

Thanks Ray and yes it feels good getting everything protected. Just started raining here last night so just in time! Yes the surface conditioning tool works great for a lot of uses. I haven't done much paint removal with it but for metal prep it works awesome.

@@T3glider The only time I fuss over bugs or dirt is on the base coat/clear coat but you should always tack off before spraying, just blowing off never removes all the dust which could lead to reduced adhesion.

@@chriskappes9170 Thanks Chris. I have been doing this a long time so I eventually figured out some pretty good ways for part holding. How is your project going?

Gracias, Jack. Sí, es un gran logro. Me alegro de haberlo logrado. I only speak pequeña of Spanish, have to use Google translate 😁

Thanks Charlie. Pretty big step, now it's time to get dusty.

Thanks Ron. I certainly hope Ruby comes out super straight, if not I will just keep redoing her until she is. I talked to the paint rep about using the epoxy all the way to the top and spraying the base coat right on the epoxy. His recommendation is there is no better way since the epoxy is more stable and adheres to itself better than anything else. Cost is usually the factor since it is more expensive than polyester or urethanes. The older epoxies didn't sand or fill all that well but the stuff I am using does both very well. What do you think of that kit? I am planning out the wiring right now and will have several relays in my setup so I am looking around and very open to suggestions.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Hi Mark, I guess I may have old info on epoxies. I've heard everything from a 7-day window to it has to be sanded again. As I mentioned, I just got started on the wiring install. These wiring kits are designed car specific, however they include a new fuse block (had to open the stock hole slightly) with modern style fuses and are engineered to accept all the most popular updates. They prewire some of the main assemblies, so they just plug into the harness. Such as the dash, it can be wired on the bench and then plugged into the harness. They're set up for HEI ignition, one wire alternator and have an accessory connection for multiple extra circuits. They come with a new ignition and headlight switch and plenty of extra wire length for custom routing. So far, the instructions seem pretty good, and I think it's going to work out great.

@@RonWatson-b6u Things change frequently in the auto paint industry so it is easy to fall behind. The epoxy I am using says it can be recoated up to so many days but I NEVER do anything like that anymore. There were systems that were wet on wet meaning you sprayed them, waited till they flashed and then sprayed the color on top. The timing is critical and it is to easy to introduce flaws. The epoxy will be sanded to 600 or 800 hundred before the base coat is applied with plenty of time to outgas in-between. Allowing your material to outgas and shrink is key to a perfect final finish. Thanks for the info.

Thanks Doug. I am using an old polisher that tends to smoke a lot when I am polishing a car but seems to work okay at higher speeds. It is just a cheap Harbor Freight one like this: www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-rotary-polishersander-70589.html The high speed wire wheels do just fine on the fastest speed but if you put them on a grinder they don't last long.

You are welcome Vince. It feels good to get over this hump and move forward that is for sure. Make sure you send pics of the car all put back together and done.

Absolutely the rotisserie is a game changer. You are really going to love not laying on your back doing all that work. Sounds like that car will outlast you for sure!

Thanks. The days are getting shorter so there was some urgency to get it all sprayed and the car rolled back inside so I pushed pretty hard. The orientation for me is what gives me best access or visibility with anything except color and clear. If you are spraying anything other than a solid color it is always best to position your parts the way the are installed just in case. Some of the newer colors are very finicky about which direction the light hits them.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication We got our first snow today. My primary color is "The Restoration Shop" Firethorn Red Pearl. The same as the engine pictures I sent you. Some have said my truck and parts need to be in the proper orientation when spraying the red base coat. My fenders and visor will be Jet Black. All my window and body trims, interior dash and bumpers are stainless steel. Original refurbished heavy chrome grill.

@@lazyhoundracing9621 You picked a tricky color. I am not familiar with that color, is it 2 or 3 stage on the color? Some have a base, then the red then the pearl. Either way yes have the doors, cab and bed oriented just like they will be installed. You might want to consider spraying the base coat on the doors installed on the cab then pull them to spray the clear. You can pre spray the jambs and door inside for good coverage let them flash off and install them to spray the outside of everything. You can do it all in pieces but the chances of the doors looking different than the cab where they meet are higher with colors like yours. Remind me when you get closer and we can discuss control coats and pre spraying at length. 74 here today, right after I spray the epoxy.... typical.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication It's just a base, clear. Supposedly chips can be touched up. I think your right about the doors and even the hood being on. Something about gravity and the metallic and pearl. There's no reason not to. I haven't decided if the interior should be red or black. I have an electric A/C compressor from down under with a hortazontal mount remote condenser and Spal fan. I have the "Old Air" inside kit. I can cool the truck down or keep it cool without starting it so black shouldn't be that bad. I'm a long way from that. We can get into it then. My goal this winter is the chassis. I bought a nice Rouge Fab bender with all the standard dies and their notcher. I'm using donor frame rails that I will mirror and use to box the frame. I already filled the over 100 holes in them. My plan is to interlock them, cut the top and bottom and weld them together. I think it will give me a factory look. Sorry so long winded.

@@lazyhoundracing9621 No worries. A lot of the new colors don't match well when you try and dab in a chip, they want to be sprayed to match. On super heavy metallics we used to bond the car body so static wouldn't build up and cause the flake to stand up. That was a long time ago and I am sure the flake used now is not susceptible to such things. I need to get to work on my chassis as well. Have to have something to put the body on so I can block out correctly. Sounds like a nice winter project.

@@robertmazzei2412 Thanks Robert. I am almost caught up to you on getting everything into epoxy, should be very soon. I miss summer already...

@@Syzygist Thanks. The factory stops are used that stops the window when manually cranking it up and down. Limit switches could be installed but they really aren't needed as long as you don't lay on the switch when the window runs up against the factory stops.

@@Slidesidecustoms Right at 4 minutes in I installed the springs onto the arms. I hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else.

@ It was easy enough fully lifting the hood. Your instructions were fantastic tho! Thank you.

You are very welcome, I hope it was of some help to you.

@@raymondantonio4145 Thanks Ray. The inside was stripped really well when it was dipped. Prep was all by hand inside. Came out pretty good all in all.

Ah yes forgot that they were dipped! I should be able to the inside of my doors pretty well hand sanded and scuffed the best I can before I epoxy mine, fortunately my doors were very clean and virtually no surface rust at all. Thanks again for the video Mark, I learn more and more every time!

@@raymondantonio4145 You are very welcome Ray. All this extra prep and sealing will help keep dirt from flying out when you topcoat as well.

@@chriskappes9170 Thanks Chris. I gave something like that a thought but the epoxy is too thick. Automotive sealer is pretty thin and might work. It will probably ruin the seals in a garden spraying so work fast.

@@thebeardsgarage Thanks, we used those at the chrome shop when I worked there. When I was a teenager my dad had me trying to get a hold of a hoof bare armed on a difficult delivery. Never felt anything that slippery in my life. If I find the need again I will definitely pick some up, thanks for the reminder.

@ I saw in another one of your videos about you getting up early to fix fences, we are both farmer / mechanics! Great videos, binge watched today!

@@thebeardsgarage Thank you, I appreciate that. Finished working in the shop today, walked out after a storm blew through and another tree dropped a big branch on a section of fence again. It never ends does it?

Thanks Tim, I appreciate that.

I know the car will outlast me for sure. I have had it for over 40 years but there is no frame off resto in my tired old bodies future so I am pretty sure it will win this one.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I would love to get a full rebuild like we've been doing for our cars.

I agree for me this is perfect for the less important areas. I am using Napa/Martin Senior Tec/Base TP570 which is more expensive but seems to be a lot tighter, lays down well and builds and sands well. It has more of an epoxy smell as well. It also is a lot more glossy when dry than any other epoxy I have seen, not sure if that is a plus or not but that is what I have noticed. I will be using the Tec/Base all the way to final sand and apply the base coat right over it instead of using a urethane primer for blocking out. There are so many out there it can be difficult to pick but the paint rep recommended the Tec/Base to me and I am glad he did.

Thanks. I am hopeful it pays off in the end. How is the truck coming along? I haven't received any update pics lately.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I haven't gotten much done. I have been busy dealing with idiots getting our prototypes made. I'm trying to stay American on the manufacturing but I don't have 30 years to wait. I don't know what they are for I have to tell them how to do everything and it still takes them 3 tries before they believe me.

@@lazyhoundracing9621 Only 3 tries? 😁 Hang in there, persistence will rule the day.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication These are big firms that we pay well into the six digits. I tell them exactly what I want and how to do it and 3 months later they present something completely different that is way overcomplicated. They want to put wheels on a horse and then can't figure out why it won't go up a mountain trail.

@lazyhoundracing9621 I spent 30 years dealing with engineers, I feel your pain.

I hope I was of some help to you on your 66. All that work upfront save a lot of frustration later.

@ BTW, I’ve owned my GTO since 1991 when I was 20. 😊

@@Slingudwig I have you beat by a few years but not by much. I am glad we both held onto our GTO's and can make our youthful dreams come true after all this time.

Hi Henry. I did that with the trunk lid some videos back and it seemed to work pretty well but the shape of the inner panels and the size of the holes in the doors pointed me towards brushing/rolling. Hey anything we do is better than nothing and it is good to know I am not the only one going down the same path.

Thanks for the tip. Do you know how well paint adheres to silver brazing? Never used it before. Most of the "welding channels" do lap joints on the work bench on 1/8" or thicker under perfect conditions which really doesn't help us car guys in the real world does it? The phosphoric acid the car was dipped in really makes TIG welding tough when you can't get to the back side to clean.

Not sure if they make them for your car but here is a link: www.onepieceproducts.com/

Thanks Anthony. Takes 3 times longer to get anything done but it is worth it.

Send me pics of your build and I will showcase them at the end of a video when I get a chance. Make sure to send a link to your channel as well. The Speedokote build seems pretty good but I will be sticking with the epoxy I started with. Builds well and sands well. Glad to hear you got the 89 sprayed before winter got here. Now you have all those cold days to put it back together for Spring time unveiling! The nose on those cars is pretty cool.