Accident Waiting To Happen!- How Half Of Your Brakes May Be Non-Functional And You Don't Know It

When a front brake hose clogs or collapses, it's a fairly obvious thing. Easy to diagnose and correct. But, when the problem hose is in the rear, you may not detect any issues with it until you really need to have all four wheels hauling you down to a stop.
Here's how we accidentally found that the rear brakes were completely non functional on our 67 Charger, and how a brake hose that appears to be completely intact and pliable may be totally choking off half of your cars braking system.
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[@Joe-mad]

Cut the line in half and blow, continue to do so until you find the clog. Let’s see what caused the clog.

[@DanEBoyd]

X2!!

[@daddysbrokegarage]

Usually just rubber breaking down. Sucks line closed internally

[@forrestcowan448]

They deteriorate from inside

[@NubsWithGuns]

It's a brake line,replace it and don't be ridiculous. Also a friend would like to know what brake fluid tastes like.

[@donthompson2188]

I agree, my rear brake hose allowed me to bleed the brakes but under pressure the hose closed off preventing the rear brakes from working.

[@Broken_Yugo]

Check the hardlines too, every inch, any barkey scaly corrosion and they're really due for replacement. One of those things people tend to ignore until they have a blowout and about eat it in some panic stop. Don't fuck around with brake plumbing.

[@NubsWithGuns]

I see a few weirdos in the comments pondering how to "fix" it instead, braniacs aren't they?

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Its called intergranular-exfoliation corrosion

[@ripstitchupholstery]

You had a line loc and didn't know it 😁thanks Tony

[@natevanlandingham1945]

I personally believe it's good preventative maintenance to change those lines out every 2-3 decades at least😂🤣!

[@jimbosc]

Agree - needs to be on the 20-30 year maintenance interval

[@mediumjumbo7484]

How about 61 years 😂😂😂

[@natevanlandingham1945]

@@mediumjumbo7484 I'd have to say I would of replaced them at least once in that time!🤣

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

Yeah, once those brake hoses get to be about 20 years old I don't trust them anymore. I've seen a couple of them get bubbles in the side of the hose and start pulling to one side.

[@mediumjumbo7484]

@@natevanlandingham1945 Yea. I just got this old chevy and UTG story is the same as mine. Someone had replaced the front one at some point, but the back one was like coal on the outside 😵‍💫😵‍💫😵‍💫

[@MPRiley-rb6lj]

By the sounds in the background the birds have chosen Uncle Tony as their new Princess. Considering their options I concur. Good choice.

[@gcaprice406]

Brake hose failures are far more common than people realize. Used to stress this at the parts store I worked at, but would usually be the last thing the customer replaced after firing the parts cannon at the rest of the brake system.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

I inspect them each time I do repairs. I had 1 with a potential split on outer casing so replaced it

[@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism]

It's not common at all. They last for many years. Decades in most cases.

[@daviduglem3213]

0:35 I can already see that this is going to be valuable information. Most people don't think about the rubber if it's still looks fine on the outside. Thanks, Tony.

[@Driven_Dragon]

Happened to me. Drove me crazy! I swapped out 2 new calipers before I figured it out. Rubber brake line looked perfect on the outside too.

[@jayski8987]

Is that a 66 or 67 Charger? My old man had a 67 with a 440 4 barrel when I was little. I used to ride in the back under the rear glass. So much for safety back in the 70’s

[@raiderjohnthemadbomber8666]

Arguably the best advice you've ever given! Thanks Uncle Tony.

[@TheJoefussGarage]

So, thanks for sharing, 🙏 the minutia of owning, caring for, old cars.. It's these segments we hope will get guys and gals attention.. I replaced all four wheel cylinders, shoes rubber lines and added a dual master cylinder on my 65 Mustang coupe, in 1987.. I've changed the rear wheel cylinders and shoes once in between.. That 1987 Master cylinder failed, on a card and coffee run last summer. I just added Wilwood Front disc kit two weeks ago.. That AutoZone master cylinder from August 2023, was leaking out the back, when I put my new disc master cylinder on !!! So, nothing is fool proof.. Hell my 1987 front rubber lines, practically snapped like twigs when I pulled them off.. Scary, 😨 that complacency, can wreck us, and or kill us if we're not vigilant... Remember, "we," are the inspection station !!!! Safety begins and ends with us.... God bless you Tony. Again, thanks for sharing you pain..

[@tomstrum6259]

Very helpful Safely tip for our 50+ yr road Antiques .....Could Bite & unexpectedly Extend critical braking Distance at the Worst possible time !!...Amazing a brake Hose would Bleed OK but Completely clog & Not pass Any fluid at near 1000 psi Braking pressure !! You should cut Line Open & Show the mechanics of this effect....

[@Grumpy-sy7wr]

6:15 I had that exact case on my rears. Pedal had enough pressure to sneak fluid through, but the return springs couldn't push it back fast enough. Tough going at stop lights getting rolling again.

[@brucejones7389]

I just did the brakes on my 69 Thunderbird...I will check this out...Thanks for the video UT!!!

[@outlawbillionairez9780]

I suspect the inner liner leaked onto the reinforcing fibers, which swelled over time. Water in the system can do this too.

[@herbslusher4409]

Great advice , Uncle Tony. Every restoror heed this.

[@rickhaile2190]

Wow! Never heard of this issue before. You're lucky you did'nt have to make an emergency stop!

[@enigmasvids9615]

Been there, done that Tony. Rubber hydraulic brake lines definitely have a use by date.

[@animoetprudentia2865]

If I may weigh in on the topic: rear proportioning valve. I rebuilt the front brakes on my Dad's 50' F1, new master cylinder etc. Pulled the hubs on the rear and the hardware looked almost new. Cool! I thought. Went to bleed them and no fluid (mighty vac pump). Tried the driver's side, no fluid. Removed the factory brass proportioning valve and it was clogged with a hardened mixture of fluid and debris. Soon after I found a receipt in the glovebox for a rear brake job done by a local shop, hence the new hardware and wheel cylinders, but they never bled them! Those cylinders were bone dry, the valve had been clogged for who knows how long, and they ignored it! Always inspect the work you pay for, or you may not live to regret it.

[@davidbisnette7673]

Wheel choice on your 66 charger is on the money, good info in the brake hose

[@timothyarnott3584]

Hey Tony, Tim here, YES, i've seen this many times in my shop.....i HATE hearing the park stop ratchet away......drives me nuts (short drive).....we change hoses usually wether it looks lime they're ok or not.....cant waste time, time is $!!!......another SUPER great UTG vid, lettin the layman know this can be an issue....PIRICELESS info.......btw, I LOVE THE TORQUE THRUSTS!!!!!....SO CORRECT, JUST AWESOME!!!!!!....i'm a tad biased twds TQ Thrust wheels on a muscle car.....SO GLAD they weren't Keystone Classics........awful lookin wheel.....ur TQ Thrusts look proper!!!!....PEACE to you sir!!

[@paulking6404]

GREAT stuff Tony! I'm working on out '75 CJ5 and going over it as it's sat for at LEAST 10 years. While doing a safety check on it BEFORE my wife uses it around town, I saw those very same soft break hoses rotten to the core. Breaks have worked fine, NO issues felt. Gotta look deeper then the break pads and wheel cylinders

[@thewholls7176]

Good job uncle Tony I once had the same issue but it was caused by using clamps on the rubber brake hose in order to stop the fluid coming out, and because the hoses were about 15 years old they internally delaminated on one side and that had the effect of acting as a one-way check valve yet externally the hose looked normal. Might be handy to warn people about the dangers of crimping off old brake hoses….

[@petesmitt]

Never clamp or crimp brake hoses.. always plug them.

[@thewholls7176]

@@petesmitt agreed - and the high performance braided lines cant be crimped due to their construction- so that should be a hint its a bad idea as well - but unfortunately crimping lines is how i was trained……

[@NITROUSnBIASPLYS]

That's a factory line lock

[@ianspeckmaier9565]

LMAO

[@dquad]

Disc brakes actually do have a form of return spring. The piston seal is square section on them, so it twists when you press the brakes. When you let go it twists back and pulls the piston away slightly.

[@bearsey26]

I have a big block 65 Fury wagon, I replaced all the hard lines (and everything else) in copper and used braided flexi’s. The brakes are manual drums and I upgraded to a twin master cylinder, the brakes are now brilliant, the 11x3” drums on the front haul it up very well, with 10x2.5” drums on the rear, I also fitted a regulated pipe manifold as well, to give more braking power to the front brakes, it stops on a dime with much less fade due to the braided flexi’s, well worth the investment!

[@sydrider6023]

Unbelievably high quality tutorial! A big big thank you UTG!

[@cumulusvapes7]

Moral of the story..... Uncle Tony is an old hose blower from waaaay back? 😂

[@keithroute8906]

Glad you found that and not the hard way. Life safety part for sure that you would not expect to clog and totally fail.

[@ManuelPerez-ip4bb]

Early brake fluid had a different additives package to the fluids made now and also differences in between manufacturers too and the rubber inside swells to the point it constricts.

[@DanEBoyd]

Another fun fact: I've read in a couple of places that the piston boot on the caliper is (or is a major player in) what causes the piston to retract! I theorize that some hydraulic suction occurs when the pedal is released, and that that also imparts some retraction force on the caliper piston.

[@michaelstrafello7346]

No not the boot the square cut seal on the piston does a little retracting the seal turns diagonally when the brakes are applied then returns to flat after pedal is released

[@howardkeil1526]

And I suspect that as your foot and the master cylinder retracts it pulls back somewhat until the port in a master cylinder is open and no longer blocked by the Piston seal

[@111000100101001]

I can confidently concur that the square cut piston seal is what retracts the piston!

[@charlesbraun9636]

Thanks Uncle Tony for the safety tip it will go on my things too do list.

[@turnertruckandtractor]

All great info. Happened to my brother's 1970 Chevy C10. Those rubber lines swell and narrow internally. Engines gets all the glamour and the brakes get no respect.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Rolling these old cars out of fields, barns & sheds I've come across this a bit, even after I've replaced the rubber lines. I found that the old brake fluid in the old steel lines is where the "gunk" likes to hide and after using the brakes again it works it's way into the new rubber lines where it has a chance to stop and clog it. Now I bite the bullet and just replace all the "hard-lines" to save from doing it all 6 months to a year later. As for the Master Cylinder's in this.... that's usually the 1st thing I replace in order to upgrade them to a dual line (I've never trusted the old singles). Good Video UTG as always guys!

[@throttlebottle5906]

you should anyway, because the lines can rust from inside out too, one bump or hard pedal step and whoosh no brakes.

[@KenFlemingTSL]

Yes Tony. I had the same with the exception it wore the pads out. The springs took much longer to retract. Visually great. Thanks for the tip on gravity bleed. I as well had someone pumping the brakes when I bled originally

[@jasonboyce9650]

Great for brake stands!

[@jaba512]

This happend to me once! The brake hoses had crud in them, they worked like a one way valve

[@ele_112]

Man thanks for posting, i’m working on the rear brakes changed the cylinders all the assembly’s left the brake pads since they’re like new, now i’m going the checks the hose

[@mrozboss]

I just replaced mine on my 69 valiant pacer they were that blocked they were ballooning under brake at first I thought I had a ceased piston until we could see them expanding under pressure when I cut them open the hose passage had completely collapsed inside and the fluid had been soaking through the hose as I'm guessing the rubber had perished and fluid had nowhere to go scary thought on a simple part that I overlooked when servicing my brakes aswell because I change fluid every 12 months as I live in a tropical area and moisture contamination is real here glad you done a video on this it will save people and old cars a lot of pain if not checked thankyou Tony

[@mikepoint4717]

I’m working on my 99 Sonoma project, when I get to that point Uncle I’ll most definitely check them 💯. Cheers 🇨🇦

[@mikekokomomike]

I have heard the liner can tear and create a one way valve by a flap.

[@nofotomojo]

Almost near subject. I purchased a 2000 F250 a few years ago. When going over it I found the brakes needed replacing. The pedal just didnt feel firm like new but it was 18 years old. Put new pads and rotors and bled brakes. No change in pedal but did stop better. I recalled when I owned another older car that had a blistered brake hose. Had my wife pump the brakes and I could feel the hose "pulse" with pedal actuation. I changed all four hoses on the F250 and nice firm pedal. Just something to check. Thanks for your informative videos.

[@clintonsmith9931]

Had a 69 Bug with disc front brakes. Down a few months for refer. No brakes all hoses closed completely. Outside looked almost new. Always replace flexible lines on older car. Amazing how good it will stop.

[@bluemule3891]

Hey Tony, when we get our hands on an old muscle car, two things are a must. Replacement of all of the brake lines, hardware, shoes, pads, master cylinder, proportioning valve etc. The hard lines might be over 50Yrs Old, well passed their serviceable life. Steel lines can have insidious corrosion that is happening from the inside, and cannot be detected from the outside, all it takes is one panic stop, and the line blows out. The same with rubber lines, just a bit of contaminant can cause the inner part of the line to swell, and plug, we do realize that rubber brake lines have numerous layers right, I hope we know this. So the inside can swell or collapse and there is no external evidence. Also the complete front end should be replaced, meaning Pittman arm, tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings etc. If someone wants to do this kind of work right, we have to make the car safe before we make it fast. I have had cars where the previous owner replaced the brakes, and I stripped them out and still replaced everything, trust no one. For those who are thinking about building a car, "I cannot stress enough" that old parts need to be replaced before you make the car go fast, make it safe, make it safe, make it safe. Also, if you don't have the money to do it right, don't do it, you could kill yourself, or more importantly an INNOCENT bystander. Never ever "rig" the safety stuff to save money, or have the point of view "even though these parts are 50 yrs old they are still better than the new parts you buy today", this thinking is false, the old parts have a service life due to corrosion, chemical breakdown etc. It is not made from unobtanium. So again please, if anyone out there is going to build a car, for your sake, make sure it is safe first. Again even though someone may have replaced a part in the distant past, I personally do not trust it, and I value my life and limb more than saving a few bucks. Blue Mule

[@Ecosse57]

some good basic tech advice we all can benefit from. thanks man.

[@JohnMcClain-p9t]

I've replaced many rubber brake lines with teflon lines, since the eighties and teflon became common for motorcycles. I use teflon for oil lines on Harley's as well, some have lasted more than twenty years. It's nice to apply the brakes and actually stop, almost imperative!

[@martinjay5906]

Great tip Tone, thanks for sharing.

[@smcdonough5916]

Perfect timing. Your video helped me find this exact problem on my newly acquired 59 Impala. Thanks!

[@Hedonistic0Frog]

Changing the brake lines gives you a much better pedal feel as well so it's worth it on old cars. A rear brake line was clogged on my 1984 300SD and I didnt realize it until I tried to bleed it, so I changed all four since they're so cheap.

[@I88-4-88I]

Tony is a cool guy! 😎

[@rseales]

Really good one Uncle Tony -- as usual.

[@tinkersspeedshop8401]

Great video tony. Now i want to fix my rear brakes even more.

[@davegallucci9327]

My 72 Elcamino has a hard petal. I've and idea about rear brake. It doesn't stop like it should Thanks Uncle Tony!

[@Wyowanderer]

Give us the rap on the importance of good components on the '66 and earlier single circuit systems... Thanks for the reminder, UT.

[@sumthinsumthingarage7913]

Thanks man. Gonna check mine tomorrow. Before the Power Tour.

[@anthonysantiago1999]

Pretty curious as to what was the clog. Debris from the lines etc.

[@joekr7226]

Nice find. Excited to see Uncle Charger hit the road 😉

[@raybrensike42]

Had that happen on my aging motorcycle. Everyone said to replace them with stainless braid. What happened was my rear brake went on, but it would not release. Deteriorated rubber. It happened the first few miles of a trip. Had to turn around and deal with it. I got it to release and then rode the whole trip using the front brake only.

[@NBSV1]

That’s the more common failure. It produces enough pressure to force flow when you hit the brakes. But, will hold some pressure when you release them. I’d suspect Tony’s hose failed internally to where a chunk got stuck and is able to block flow from applying the brakes.

[@v6ileib]

Thats why its good to have yearly mandatory inspections. To make sure that car is not dangerous to you or other people. Brake stopping power is measured and it is tested that brake bias is within spec side to side and front to back.

[@scotcoon1186]

Pennsylvania they check the pad thickness and drum adjustments and send it back out.

[@_BYC]

i hate old rubber lines.. i just had to replace all 3 on our 80 Camaro. all 3 were clogged.

[@agostinodibella9939]

Great info Uncle Tony. It makes you wonder if you should change all these hoses after so many years because they can clog, or even leak, but that would be more obvious.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Dry rot

[@ianshaw8273]

Couldn't agree more, had break line split and a master go now I automatically tap for a brake check every time I go to stop

[@minnesotatomcat]

I had the same thing happen on an old jeep I had, front brake lines though. After you let off the pedal the brakes were real slow to let off and sometimes wouldn’t release. Thought it was the calipers but upon inspection the hose itself was get gummy and coming apart from the inside, if you squeezed the hose it would literally stick together, both front soft lines. Replaced the hoses and all was well. Mine looked fine on the outside too.

[@ericvitelli7113]

Me too, 2016 Wrangler. I hard braked and it swayed. smelled a caliper hung up. Replaced. New one got hot on test drive. Change rubber out. Glad I flushed it all out . 100000 miles.

[@heliarche]

I've had it happen that a flex line failed, nothing visually wrong, but it acted as a check valve and wouldn't let my drivers front caliper loose. I was chasing my tail for a while on that one until my Father told me about it happening to him. Good video! I better get out and check out some of my junk.

[@marc11467]

Going to check mine tonight. 👍 Love the Torque Thrust black rims! ❤ Same wheels I have on my 300 🌟

[@anthonyiannone7618]

take a thin wire and slide it the hose from each end till you find out where the clog is then cut the line open to see whats causing it.

[@gregambrose2566]

Just replaced my original brake hoses for my 1969 ford LTD. Only place I could find them was from Brake Hoses unlimited. Pricey but very good quality .

[@samhicks97]

Bit the bullet and upgraded to custom order steel braided brake hoses on my C body Chrysler few years back, hasn't failed, yet. slightly gives a firmer brake pedal feel with steel braided vs rubber.

[@594bolt]

When I did NY State vehicle inspections in the early '80's, MoPars were notorious for cracked front brake hoses.

[@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542]

Just about 3 years ago I put new heavier duty slave cylinders and shoes on the back of my 3/4 ton flatbed truck, along with new oil seals. I probably should have [and now will] replace both of those hoses. Since I plan on adding an extra spring and adding dualies to it, and the truck will also be hauling heavier loads, I know it is very important for those back wheels to have full stopping power. I also need to fully go over the brakes on my 1 ton flatbed which has not been driven in like 12 years before I put it back on the road.

[@RichieCat4223]

2:30 Is the hose clogged or did it internally collapse?

[@squirrley9]

I hope Tony doesn't forget that the front's have two of them.

[@ArthurSperotto]

So you have a permanent line-lock, perfect!!

[@johnkranyics281]

Just ordered sets for our 72 Vette and 74 Triumph TR6.

[@gcaprice406]

The birds chirping in the background is a nice touch. This would be a real relaxing video if Tony spoke a little softer, and grew a Bob Ross afro.

[@4speed3pedals]

One issue many people do not realize is how the brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs moisture. You may think because the system is sealed, it is not a problem. Moisture can enter through the porosity of the hose material, at fittings, at seals, the "rubber" wheel cylinder cups, and master cylinder lid gasket. Once it absorbs moisture, wheel cylinder leakage is one of the first things to develop. Adding brake fluid when replacing brakes is not enough and the system should be flushed and I believe 2 years is recommended. If you have an opaque master cylinder reservoir, you can see how it starts to turn yellow. It should be flushed out completely with new fluid.

[@DanEBoyd]

Excellent advice.

[@BigBeavrSlayer]

Very well said, and because it is hydroscopic it is also water soluble. Brake fluid all over from bleeding brakes? Save the brake clean, water hose and it's clean

[@indianaslim4971]

That was my secret weapon before I retired, had multiple customers tell the boss the brakes were better than ever or were like when the car was new....also, there's a pinhole in the top of the cap that allows air in so there isn't a vacuum in the master cylinder

[@JrGoonior]

Back in the 90’s my brothers 65 Coronet broke the rear hose. It still had the single master cylinder, he said all he could do is let slow to a stop.

[@BackyardClunkers77]

With these hoses on the fronts being clogged, with disc brakes- it will act like a sticky caliper issue. Obviously with some newer vehicles having independent rear suspension it would have the same symptoms as a sticky rear caliper on one side too.

[@elektro3000]

Also worth it to invest a couple bucks in an electronic tester that measures water content in brake fluid (you can check it from the reservoir). Back when I lived in Miami, I changed that fluid every year, and recommended others do the same! Dad lives in Arizona now, I think he can get away with leaving fluid in there for 5 years without it going bad...

[@CreationsVibration]

You know it's time to change high pressure brake lines by the smoke coming from the rotors

[@jamesblair9614]

I had the check valve scenario happen on my 70 340 Duster. After driving home from work at highway speed, when I parked, there was smoke coming out of the wheel, the bearing grease was like water and ran out around the grease cap, the boots on the caliper pistons melted close to the rotor, and there was a noticeable color change on hub casting. They would apply easily, but one wouldn’t release unless I cracked the bleader

[@rickstine7107]

Good stuff UT. I personally don't trust the new rubber lines so I always go straight to steel braided

[@rescuedandrestoredgarage]

Thats very good information, brother.

[@marcusmaddenov2451]

Good tip UT

[@GenasysMech]

I had such an issue on a front line, out of curiosity I ran a piece of bailing wire form each direction then dissected. The inner tube had collapsed. It wasn't at a high stress bending point either. All I can think is something breaking down chemically causing it to swell shut. Ever since, whenever I was doing brakes on a car 10 years or older it was an automatic change out of the hoses. Mid 70's corvettes seemed to always have this problem.

[@mattbauckman9907]

I had the opposite problem with my 66 Chevy. I stood real hard to energize the rears and they wouldn’t release. The hose got clogged on the hard breaking and held the pressure when I released.

[@mediumjumbo7484]

This same thing happened to me recently on my 62 Chevy truck. I put on new rear wheel cylinders ,which were like a piece of concrete. Then I go to bleed in the new hard lines and nope. Soft line was a log jamm . New one did the trick. Now the axle seals are leaking 😵‍💫😵‍💫😵‍💫

[@SoI_Badguy]

Yeah I already changed those on my 66 Coronet. That single pot brake system is scary and I imagine if one of those lines gave out all the brakes would go bye bye.

[@ThePaulv12]

It's pretty common man. What happens is the inner layers delaminate. As you found out, it usually happens after a brake fluid change. Also with drums, there's a residual line pressure vave at the master cylinder behind the brass ferrule in the discharge port. It's a little rubber cup and small light spring. This acts as a one way valve maintaining pedal pressure as you describe.

[@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism]

It's not common. It something that probably only happens once in 20 years of owning a car. I've had to replace many brake hoses over the years and I doubt I ever had to replace one on anything that wasn't at least 20 years old.

[@ThePaulv12]

@@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism Don't be that way. Just because you don't see something very often doesn't mean it isn't pretty common for some of us. For example, some commenters are qualified mechanics so we get to see things relatively regularly because we do it every day. Not all commenters on KZbin are armchair experts - occasionally you get the real deal LOL. It is true enough that 20 year old hoses are the ones likely to cause the issues. I would agree with that but it is the ones that look good on the outside that catch you out. I have never seen it on disc-disc hoses. I've seen it on 4 wheel drums and disc-drums quite a few times over the years - mostly on disc-drum hoses on the rubber hose from the body to the diff where UT had it. When it happens on the front the car pulls so it's easier to pick up.

[@throttlebottle5906]

@@ThePaulv12 I've had rust pinch off lines at the middle mounting brackets. some were 30 year old lines, some were about 3 years old! it's something in the road ice melt/salt/brine they've been using. Ohio rusty salt belt here. other thing I find often, when there's rubber protective sleeves over the metal end, the crimp portion rusted away, leaving the line stuck on the end by prayer, one good pedal step and they may blow right off. I stomped on the pedal before and blew some off while sitting in garage, as proof there was dangerous issues(with the owner watching). some vehicles I've seen all four hoses with the crimp area rusted off, that makes me look at all of the junk on the road around me, wondering who wont be stopping. 😬

[@JDWorkshop-wn9tt]

Interesting Safety tip! Thanks for sharing! I’m planning all new lines for my Valiant soon anyway but, I didn’t know about this.

[@DanEBoyd]

It's a major restriction if the master can't pump fluid through it. First time I dealt with this was when I was first starting out working on cars. '84 Buick Skylark with a sticking front caliper. Pulled the wheel and seen the rubber hose was split all the way around. Pulled it off and blowed through it and found my problem. The hose's inner liner was still unbreached and air/fluid-tight, but without the rubber to support it, it kinked. Some cars, particularly Ford Tempos, have a problem with the metal retaining brackets which tether the hose, developing corrosion which builds up and squeezes the hose, causing the check-valving effect, and not letting the calipers release. While a shop will be happy to sell you two new brake hoses, I was happier using a large flat screwdriver to pry open the bracket a little bit, where it curls around the hose. Problem fixed. If you're good, you can do it with the wheel still on...

[@MrOnemanop]

A few years ago, I had the opposite effect occur on my '68 Mustang. Driving in city traffic the rear drums locked up, and I had to wait 20-30 minutes for the pressure to release, and I could continue to (Gingerly) drive it, from Canada, across to Detroit, and go pick up my parts, and return 80 miles uneventfully back into Ontario. The hose got changed out (Last remaining original- car is from Las Vegas) and 15 years on, no repeat. The hose simply became so swollen, it trapped the fluid, and the return springs were unable to force the fluid to return.

[@TheGforcead]

Here in the south we have a little insect called a "Dirt Daubber", any round oraface is a perfect home for the dirt Dauber, they must not have them in NYC or Indiana? Tennessee has Dirt dabbers!!

[@mikerundell6517]

Thanks Tony😊

[@scottsmith1386]

One day in my '69 Satellite 4dr the steering wheel started pulling to the left. First thing i suspected was the brake hose. Sure enough, it was the problem problem

[@KRich408]

I drove a car I just purchased from Olympia WA to Vermont in the winter the snow was so bad I had to spend a night in a rest area near the WA Oregon border, when I got to Vermont I had no idea my back brakes didn't work?! Both brake cylinders were frozen, driving it over 3000 miles it felt fine? Even going down the mountain passes 10000 ft 😮 it had disks on the front Drums on the back. The last car I owned for 4 wheel drums was a 1970 Dodge Coronet 500, (I really miss that car 😢) it was the Chargers baby brother. And the only year with the split front bumper that looked like Eye's 👀

[@bobnuttall9203]

Yes, with age those hoses will deteriorate internally and close up. It would really make itself known to you during a hard or panic stop in the rain

[@Andrew-xf3wb]

Had this rear hose issue on my 72 El Camino. Bought 2 for $35 off Amazon. Brakes all the way around and been fine for over a year.

[@edc2221]

thank you.....

[@oldschool6345]

Split that line lengthwise - show the culprit - and make a short to reference this video in a shameless plug (lol), you've got my curiosity going whether its an actual clog or inner line melt down. That being said all of our parts are still under suspicion like the camshaft problems that have sprung up everywhere. A friend of mine owns a truck parts supply. Chinesium brake parts became a problem 10 -15 yrs ago (and you still have to be careful what you buy) for 1 ton and bigger trucks. 1 ton parts by themselves were a really big problem for a couple years. Everything from bad rubber, lining materials, and metals - to substituted parts that looked identical but had inferior sized bores, wrong cup sizes in bores etcetc.. it was a mess for a while. I'm confident some parts replaced had to have contributed to accidents (it was an almost for me and I got lucky) - but there's no way in hell to pull out a statistic on that. Thanks for sharing

[@samuelgoodman2825]

Been there,done that,almost learned the hard way.Before my 65 Dart GT console car goes back on the road all rubber lines will be replaced,brake and fuel.