Accuracy Review - M1 Caliber REEKON Tools Calibration

The M1 Caliber Miter Saw Tool is a fast way to make repeat cuts on a miter cut saw. Calibration is a fast process and ensures that rotations of the wheel are properly converted to linear measurements.

[@ericspecullaas2841]

I live how repeatable this is. For someone who doesnt do a lot of cutting this would be perfect even for the once in a while jobs

[@REEKONTools]

really shines for repeat cuts!

[@user-jz4ss5ii8u]

just what we need, another gizmo to sloooooow us down...

[@christopherdekonstrukt444]

Need 6' of space on both sides of the saw to calibrate. My workshop where my mitre saw lives is only 10' wide so 60" on each side. Hopefully Reekon will release a newer version that doesn't require 6' of space on either end.👍

[@324bear]

Is there a discount code?

[@biggestcomplainer]

I’m wondering if this would work well when I have to cut alot of aluminum storefront excursions….. just wondering if the wheel would have anough traction.

[@REEKONTools]

yes! we have a lot of customers use for alumnium extrusions and it is even more accurate than with wood since aluminum is rarely warped

[@petergiles2642]

Will not debris built up on the wheel cause an under measurement?

[@REEKONTools]

yes it would, usually not much sticks with a vacuum running and its easy to wipe off but if the diameter changed then that could cause inaccuracy

[@lingmeng-vs8dd]

we're interested in your product, how to become your agent for selling them in China

[@hmtrimworks7148]

Why bother with the blade kerf off set… just bump your material to the left side of the blade, then when setting the calibration, line it with the right side of the blade 🤷 Wouldn’t that work?

[@REEKONTools]

slower and less safe than just touching off of starting again with each cut

[@hmtrimworks7148]

@@REEKONTools But if you start your calibration on the left side of the blade and end your calibration on the right side of the blade, the kerf is therefore automatically accounted for, so each cut would be correct without knowing the actual diameter of your kerf… •Additionally it would simplify the process and be more precise without the extra steps of figuring out your blade kerf and then programming it in

[@LDBecker]

Why NOT just set the blade kerf offset? It takes literally 30 seconds and is good until you reset the M!. Then you don't have to remember allow for the blade kerf. I just set up mine with the factory-listed blade kerf (2.5mm for my Festook Kapex 120 fine cut blade) and cuts are precisely correct. I use a zero-clearance insert on my Kapex and just align the workpiece to the kerf line on the zero-clearance insert that the blade made, zero the M1, and the results are perfect. Very cool...

[@arnoldtarbooz1420]

Inexpensive? $150 fir a jig that you can do without, is not inexpensive. An i Phobe costs $10.00 to make. They sell it for $1600... how much does this cost to make? And why sell for $150?