Acorn to Arabella - Journey of a Wooden Boat - Episode 66: Installing Pocket Keel Bolts

Now that we have all the floors fabricated and the majority installed, there are 4 more very important ones to focus on. The ones that tie the ballast keel to the keel timber. These four floors in the middle of the vessel will hold the bolts that capture the 4.5 ton keel and keep it connected to the center line.
We will be installing these very important bolts using a keyhole slot method instead of drilling all the way through to the bottom of the ballast keel. This will allow us to have access to the nuts and washers in the future, if needed, without having to dig a hole under the keel or jacking the entire vessel up.
To cut the keyhole slots, we drill into the lead and chisel and carve out a pocket large enough to accept the nuts and washers before tightening the whole thing down. Not the easiest of tasks!
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Acorn to Arabella is a boat building project taking place in Granby, Massachusetts. Steve and Alix started as amateur boat builders building their own 38' wooden boat in their backyard: designer William Atkin's Ingrid with a Stormy Petrel's gaff rig. These videos follow the journey from tree felling, to lumber milling, to lofting, to the lead keel pour and beyond-sharing details of the woodworking, carpentry, metal smithing, tool building, and tool maintenance that wooden boats command. This ultimate DIY project will continue well past launch, when they will travel and learn to cruise aboard the boat that they've built. Just kidding about all that, this channel is about a Siberian Laika named Akiva.
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[@AcornToArabella]

Thanks for all the suggestions regarding drill manufacturers and drilling technique! We will absolutely keep it in mind if/when we purchase a new drill and we will work to improve our drilling technique going forward. Thanks again for all the recommendations and ways to improve upon our skills!

[@stevenhorne5089]

You may need it again in the future. I've got a 3hp, soft start router made by Craftsman. Now I know that Craftsman doesn't made the tools themselves so they may be made by another Mfr. The router is 3hp, soft start, variable speed, and plunging. Mine is about 20 years old and not made anymore, but it's still in perfect condition. I used it for a long time cutting very thick acrylic. It has a lot of similarities with lead. I will happily send it to you to use. If it breaks, it breaks. When you're done with it, you can send it back.

[@leowuli8381]

Check out the German Company "Fein". The Morse-tapered two handed Drill is the thing I'd use there.

[@easternWashington.]

If you can find one an old shopmate 520 will drill almost anything

[@Murphyslawfarm]

Check out the German Company "Metabo"

[@liamkelly8684]

Eibenstock do great drills

[@peterconnors1229]

Hilti has been in my chest since the 80’s with no failures !! Thank you for great content. Made my cancer fight fly by with your videos!!

[@thenextstepp]

We have always used old school Milwaukee Hole Hawgs for drilling large timber and Hilti powder actuated guns for installing our temporary bracing to concrete. Neither one ever failed us unless a careless worker dropped it from a lift or something. Here's hoping you're kicking cancers ass!!! I have been fighting a nerve condition for some time so I rely on videos like this as well... Stay strong man.

[@peterconnors1229]

TheNextStepp wow thank you for reading! I never think anyone does! Lol

[@cf6282]

Hang in there Peter! It will take awhile until this boat is done. Lot’s of things to enjoy.

[@peterconnors1229]

C F I was too sick to visit last month. Sooo upset....If I’m in the area, may I stop by?

[@dougmacleod1942]

I must agree with you on the Hilti, we uses Hilti for work and, so far, never fail.

[@christopherneelyakagoattmo6078]

Who knew that taking a Router to lead was like trying to machine rough, bubbly concrete? Every Machinist ever. The VOIDS, MAN.

[@christopherneelyakagoattmo6078]

20:46 you looked in the slot, like: "I think that is working." No you don't. It's working a number on that tool. You need something high torque, like a stubby end mill.

[@ericjohnson_72]

Having worked with thick hard woods and metals I was worried you were not clearing your hole enough. To be blunt guys, I think it was your drilling technique at the time of the failure of the first drill. Milwaukee makes great tools, I've worked with huge 100+ year old oak beams and they never failed. If you want to go another route, Bosch, Hitachi, or Makita are good just to name a couple. Thank you for all the extra work sharing the build with us.

[@tolbaszy8067]

The good sense you are sharing is very refreshing, and, hopefully contagious!

[@robertkendall1037]

Why am I up at 4am? Must be Friday and my favorite boat building video is up!!!

[@beelwillis4025]

I've owned HILTI and Makita. In commercial construction, they are the only brands that have NEVER let me down.

[@timothygunckel7162]

You need one of those old 1950's metal cased drills. Those were real beast that would break your arm if the bit got stuck

[@GrangerGangster]

I don’t have time to read all the comments to see if I will be the only one posting this, so I apologize if it’s a repeat, BUT I appreciate your transparency on stuff that goes wrong. You could have totally edited out that whole bit bit, but you left it in there. That’s pretty awesome. Ok, now back to the video!

[@johnsisk5914]

Glass half full. I love the positive attitude y'all bring to your project. Thank you for sharing this experience with us.

[@sandjenterprises4980]

Sage wisdom about dealing with adversity. If something breaks, you have a problem. If you rage about it, now you have two problems.

[@bobuk5722]

Hi. My late Dad "The man who never made a mistake never made anything". Pontious Pilate in the film Ben Hur "We progress through error". Kudos for showing the errors and, even more importantly, the recovery actions. BobUK.

[@robertgardner7470]

What surprised me was the fact that he used the same method to break the second drill chuck.

[@davidross2920]

​@@robertgardner7470 Always try to learn from your mistakes.

[@carlwhite8225]

I like the cool under fire method, fix it and move on. You guys will live to be old like me with that mindset, love the channel.

[@billhamilton2366]

Steve... when you are drilling holes you need to clear the drill way more often ......Take this info from an old time machinist. And use verso or water as a lubricant coolant when drilling lead.I would recommend Makita drills... I've never had one fail ...ever. You could make a small metal ramp /funnel and fill those pockets in with freshly melted lead you have collected instead of making wooden plugs. I know you want future access but in your lifetime what do you think the odds of that are? You guys are building an unusually fantastic boat.

[@milkshakes6850]

+1 for Makita

[@roberson644]

Also, the drill he is using is not designed for such a big drill bit...even though it does fit.

[@jonmassey8124]

+ another 1 for Makita

[@pikethree]

Makita +1

[@alexhamon9261]

On a long enough timeline almost every timber in Arabella need replacement, it might not be their job to replace the centerline timbers in like 50+ years, but whoever's job it is wont have to chisel and route through lead to get the keel back on . Wood plugs are simple to make, they'll swell to a watertight fit, and you can make them from a type of wood that would be them the last thing to rot if you wanted.

[@NikkiN777]

Really enjoying binge watching the series. It's a good thing you guys are skinny!

[@jordanbritten8031]

That jig for finding the ends of the bolts was pretty cool!

[@rogerdavies6226]

I have been binge watching while folding laundry

[@MonkeyWithAKnife]

Id say HILTI for the big corded drills and Hitachi for the cordless ones. Always a pleasure to watch you calmly work and deal with obstacles. Cheers from Denmark 😊

[@Cheggley45]

Hilti drills/hammer drills and bits are the best and most durable power tools I have ever used. Though, I have several Milwaukee tools that have worked well for me, go figure? I have been watching your videos since the beginning. Very enjoyable. Can’t wait ‘til you get this in the water!

[@jovangrbic97]

As far as the broken drills go, the chuck and mounting bolt are fine, you just snapped the retention, anti-unscrewing bolt, should even be a fairly standard thread and bolt length. Just replace that with a steel one and it will be good as new! Your just need to undo the stuck part in the drill side, either with a screw remover tool, a left handed drill bit, or just tap it for a left handed bolt and undo it. Would be a pity to junk those drill for such a minor failure.

[@richardbell673]

That's exactly what it looks like to me. Everything is fine except for the fixing screw. That happens when the drill fetches up in reverse. Can happen to any brand. Easy fix.

[@court2379]

Agreed. They used a threaded on chuck so it really can only take heavy loads in the forward direction. When running backwards all the load is carried by the small retention screw. Other chucks use a taper and friction to carry the load, and sometimes a screw just like that one to make sure it stays seated on the taper. They won't care which direction it is loaded.

[@jovangrbic97]

Just a small correction, the retention screw is reverse threaded, the mounting shaft bolt normally threaded. To remove the stuck bit tap with normal right handed thread, and tighten in a normal screw until it loosens. Or turning clockwise with a "special" screw removal bit, as they are usually counter clockwise threading!

[@richardbell673]

@@jovangrbic97 ....what John said.

[@wyattroncin941]

The retainer screw is left handed itself. You want a right hand bit to drill it out, otherwise you're just tightening it.

[@shopstuff5]

I like that "take it easy attitude" Steven. Hold on to that, cause you're going to need it in the near future!

[@SomeHomies]

I really like the length, style and pace of the videos. Very well made!

[@dandexinventor]

hole hog with clutch (mine is DeWalt updated with clutch when they came out)...has served me well for over 30 years and router mortising with a 1/2 x 5" spiral bit. I know this is "a day late" but oh well. You guys are intriguing me every video with your challenges and adventures both now and anticipated. My job has similar stuff to keep me thinking on my toes, but your prize is also very worth while. What a story you are writing!

[@LadyDewBuild]

I would agree with everyone else on Hilti tools. Clearing the hole more often would also help. As always excellent videos, excellent work, supreme boat!

[@alexhamon9261]

I really like that yall are building Arabella like you'll be the ones taking her back apart in 20+ years for a refit. The wood plugs in the keel will swell if they go in dry, and only fall out if Arabella is out of the water long enough to dry. The shim idea will work fine and could of saved time in the careful shaping of the floors by carving the high spots it makes contact until nearly seamless fit. Glued laminations compressed with those floors will hold until the wood it's bolted to until it's rotten.

[@patmancrowley8509]

I recommend the Bosch Bulldog. I've used it drilling concrete floors and walls and it was a walk-in-the-park for that heavy work.

[@johnbeirne7251]

John Beirne I am sorry if this is the 45th comment on the drilling wood for the keel bolts. We have done a ton of long hole boring for various different purposes on the Square Rig ship Friendship of Salem. I have gotten lots of ship boring bits stuck deep in the holes. FINALLY I have learned to frequently clear the holes of chips, especially when the bit is cutting well. hope this helps, not piss you off. Keep up the great work, lot's of us on Friendship are following you guys and appreciate your work.

[@d6joe]

When drilling and machining soft metals, use a product like “aqua cut”, “anchor lube”, or “tap magic” to lube the bit. It helps keep the lead from being so sticky/gummy to the bits.

[@UriahGiles]

I didn't read all 1000+ comments but why has nobody mentioned a Milwaukee Hole Hawg for drilling all of the large diameter and deeper holes? That's exactly the type of drill you guys should be using, a 1/2" drill, not those little drills you have now! You can't expect a tool to do a job it's not designed for, and then be upset with it when it fails. I've been using Milwaukee tools for over 20 years and had very few problems. Some of their newer products need to be designed a bit better though, but overall they make great tools. I've watched you guys since the 1st video and enjoyed watching your progress. You're going to have a beautiful bluewater worthy sailboat for many years to come once you guys are finished with her. Screw the people who ask why there isn't more drama and arguing! You're not filming a reality TV show!

[@jimwilliams1536]

I think Milwaukee need to show you guys some love. For posterity and such.

[@herbertpeck8170]

DITTO! Milwaukee should arrive at your location with a trruck full of tools! FREEEEE!

[@cf6282]

That really is a great thought. Just needs a Milwaukee professional to see this channel and realize they could help out and get a lot of free publicity. Would imagine they may help out with professional assistance too.

[@jamespowerish]

Id nearly say to steer clear of Milwaukee altogether. Their gear is not heavy duty. Anyway job is done now.

[@annotten7413]

They are using to small of a drill for what they are doing - it’s not the drill, it is the proper use of what you are doing

[@jimplacko9092]

Guys, I've had the same problem with new "quality" tools ..... Years ago, the motto used to be "when in doubt, go stout" !! I have some all metal, corded (110 volt) Drills that were my Dad's (I'm 64, so you know how old these are !! ) they are heavy, sometimes cumbersome, but they don't quit !! Thor, Doremeyer & Yes, Black & Decker !!! are some that I have ..... I've seen these at garage sales, Flea markets etc. I know you really don't have time to go on a garage sale adventure, but the many followers may see my comment and if they are out and about, they (myself included) will keep our eyes peeled....So far You're craftsman ship and dealing with the "what could go wrong" moments , are impressive, along with you're positive attitude !!! Hopefully, someone out here can find you a old, "monster " drill !!! Jim

[@MermaidSystem]

I recommend Bosch Blau or Hilti. Both are a little bit expansive, but these are tough. and nearly impossible to break. Both are tools for Professionals

[@FromThePrairies]

Was going to say the same thing. Bosch may be more readily available.

[@jodyshields7409]

JetGirl I 100 percent agree with your recommendation. As the saying goes "you get what you pay for" will never let you down...

[@JC-ny3kf]

Bosch, except jig saws, has a pretty horrid reputation at least in the USA. Do you have a specific drill you're recommending?

[@louwilliams8528]

I second the vote for Hilti. They make true commercial quality tools. Gearing is metal. Most others have gone to plastic. Get one of their impact driver drills, you can switch between straight drilling and impact drilling.

[@michaelvangundy226]

That squeaky sound when drilling is the bit needing lubricant. If you are worried about getting oil on the wood then use Teflon.

[@bvalt1]

I'm a serial tool killer, all of my cordless tools are Bosch, batteries last forever and the torque is phenomenal. for Corded I would suggest Hilti. I'm a 30+ year custom home builder, and I am really rough on tools, those are the only two brands that have ever survived me, along with Dewalt for saws, these are my best suggestions.

[@stanbartoszewski2266]

Buy a hole hawg there made for drilling holes like that it’s a slow speed high torque drill ironically made by Milwaukee

[@jaywelder877]

But hold on tight!!!! I've seen grown 300lb men of solid muscle get their butts whooped and broken by hole hogs!!!

[@scottjones5455]

That hole hawg will break your arm if you aren't careful, the torque on those things is unreal. Had one throw me off a ladder early on in my career. Great drill though and the right drill for this application.

[@JCSenor]

absolutely love this series, im a young doctor and my work life is relentless, these videos give me peace of mind on my few days off, so thank you for that.

[@stevekersten5515]

Great video yet again! Metabo and my Porter Cable have been used for many years. Still keep on ticking!

[@netpackrat]

Unfortunately since Porter Cable was bought by Stanley Black&Decker they are now just another relabeled Chinese crap brand. My PC 3/8 drill from 20 years ago will probably run until the end of time, but the new ones are just another box store brand. 8^(

[@lemagreengreen]

That jig to find out where to drill the hole is great. Nice simple solution, no measuring required!

[@GMC.Sprint]

On the drills, it just looks like the chuck locking screw that broke off. If should be able to back that screw out and replace it. Also, I own and love a Milwaukee drill like yours. Mine it's 10 years old though and may be from before Ryobi purchased Milwaukee.

[@quadmasta]

Notice it only broke when he was trying to run the drill backwards. The chuck is left-hand thread so ALL of the force of that gigantic bit being bound was put on the shank of the retainer bolt.

[@lancedaniels]

ThAnks for the shot of the nut attached to the keel bolt😀

[@MidnightAmratha]

Try the bosch, they may be a bit harder to get hold of but they have the german oomph that you may need

[@garyfairbrother5532]

I had serious doubts about the bolts and nuts lining up in the lead keel. I should have known better!!! You guys have performed some magic there (but you did reveal how the trick is done). “Well done” I should say.

[@steveadams99708]

I have an old - I think it's half-inch - Milwaukee electric drill that I used on construction for many years and it is still working! Heavy and clunky compared to those things you keep breaking but does the job! There is enough torque to take you for a ride if you get careless and stick the bit!

[@VeraPinkLynn]

I can recommend power tools from Bosch. One of my drills is almost 22 years old and in daily use. Until now I just have to fix the cord one time and put some grease into it. But of curse there are also other good quality companies like Makita, Hilti, Festo, ….

[@darrylmcleman6456]

My take on your drilling is in line with the other comments.Necessary to back the drill bit out frequently to clear the shavings. Enjoying the vids.

[@gordon9671]

Metabo makes industrial quality tools.

[@MrJules2U]

Bosch for drills. German built still represents excellent quality, in general. This project is a dream build. I can only imagine the satisfaction all the milestones would bring to you and everyone who is invested in this journey. 👍

[@owensales627]

I like the Mikita HP 10-30. I've used mine 25 years and still going strong!

[@luclatinette]

It's so hard not being able to binge this whole series until Arabella is done, but I think it's a good exercise in patience to not be able to.

[@timcorso6337]

You should bounce the drill bit up and down occasionally so that it can clear the chips and not jam in the keel. I don't think your drilling technique is very kind to the drills especially in deep pocket holes. In addition you should be using an SDS drill, they are much more heavy duty and more applicable for the type of drilling you are doing. Again you broke the drill bit in the keel because you didn't withdraw the bit to allow it to clear the swarf

[@user-oj4xh8cg2l]

yep, at a certain age of 30+ it takes longer to learn from ones mistakes...

[@piledriver141]

Used Milwaukee drills exclusively building bulkhead/ sea walls. Agree with the guy above. Yank back every 2" clear the hole. We drill about 120 holes a day through 10 to 12 inch butt wood piles 13/16" bit. 1 guy 1 drill

[@rsluggy6485]

What he said. If you clear chips way more often than you think you need to, you will be much happier with the hole, the life of the drill bit and the ease of the job :)

[@karlkoziks1432]

love your comment, they are using autofeed drillbit, they should switch to drills ment for steel.

[@Beef4Dinner22]

Autofeed drill bits work well for starting holes accurately and for shallower holes, but i agree that switching after the first inch or two so that they can clear the hole is what they should be doing, especially for such a deep hole in a harder wood.

[@SteelDoesMyWill]

I've been pretty happy with my Milwaukee 18V cordless tools, but thanks for the heads up on that garbage corded drill. My big 1/2" chuck corded drill is a Makita hammer drill. Haven't put it to the test beyond 3/8" concrete anchors but I've always had good performance from Makita. I see lots of folks saying Hilti for heavy duty corded power tools so I'll keep that in mind. My Milwaukee cordless tools have been beast, I think I have about 7 or 8 in 12 and 18 V, pretty priceless for boat building. The cordless angle grinder and the the oscillating tool are probably the star performers.

[@guido1534]

That beard is looking good my brother. Keep it going! Great video by the way!

[@jimburig7064]

Another enjoyable chapter. Fabrication bringing the mediums of metal and wood together is very interesting. It can not be rushed, and with a cool head.

[@psal8715]

I've only had bad times with Milwaukee drills. Weirdly anything else they have made that i've uses has been nothing but good. I would recommend Hilti, i've had the best luck with them.

[@PCStuart1]

Hi guys, my drill suggestion is AEG. I have had mine for 35 years, I am a aircraft tradesman, I use it for all my personal home reno's and metal work as my go to drill. Mine is German made. As a hammer drill it's awesome too. I have also used it on racing cars chrome-moly, titanium, aluminium, bronze and boiler plate steel alloy. I don't know about the newer models though. Another point, Milwarkee (spelling sorry) as written below is now made in China, no tradesman I know buys that brand now. Also, blow the dust out of the drill once in a while, that will make the brushes last longer. There are other good brands too. Good job guys.

[@bartpijpers3844]

Hilti. The most expensive but also the best.

[@papajj3]

Thanx so much Guys for quickly responding and pointing me in the right direction to the A2A you tube website. I started binging right away and am now caught up. As a Retired NAVY sailor I'm thrilled to be watching your progress. Now if you ever want to build an aircraft carrier, I'm your go to source. Thanx again!!

[@totalutternutter]

The milwaukee drill failure looks like only the left hand threaded chuck locking screw snapped, maybe designed as sacrificial to protect the motor from burning out

[@rodneygowland551]

You should be able to remove the Broken screw from inside the chuck. If you can remove the rest from the drill then just screw the chuck back on and replace the locking screw. Drill fixed😋

[@bh8146]

I was thinking the same thing. A designed failure point to save the drill. Replace the screw and you still have a functioning tool.

[@denisohbrien]

more like they are just not designed to be punished in reverse.. if it were me I'd just red locktite the chuck on.

[@davidshaw9993]

As the chuck screw is a left-handed thread, the change from forward to reverse changed the force from the chuck's threads to the chuck screw's threads. Since the chuck screw is smaller and weaker than the chuck and since the bit was jammed as the chips were not cleared often enough, it sheared in two.

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@davidshaw9993 Indeed. The drill itself will work fine when that screw is extracted and replaced Extraction could be done using a conventional right-handed drill bit slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the screw, seeing it's a left-hand- threaded screw. It will need to be lined up, ideally thru an alignment bush made by a friend with a lathe. Use a decent quality drill bit, eg from somewhere which supplies toolmakers, not from a hardware store.

[@shanejennings7437]

I like ridgid tools I use all ridgid at my job and still going strong while other brands come and go great video can’t wait so see what’s comes next

[@arneernst2514]

Drill: Hilti or Fein. they're a bit harder on the wallet but you get excellent service, low maintenance cost and they don't break on you as easily as the Milwaukee does. way better quality. miles better

[@hkimsey]

I will probably never again see someone stick a plunge router into solid lead. Awesome!

[@greennixon00]

Look at Hilti tools. They are made for contractors and have used them for years

[@carlthor91]

I second Jared, I've used HILTI for +30 years. I will continue to use them. Cheers

[@franz357]

Yep ! And I don't know if it's still the case but a few years back the Hilti stuff I was buying back here in Europe was coming with a lifetime warranty, which made it real easy if anything broke to just get it replaced for free. Although I've never been able to brake any Hilti equipment ! :D

[@derekwalker5369]

I have seen a Hilti drill zip tied on and put into a bucket of water for and hour and still be running. Saw another thrown out a window of the 14th floor (more of an accident) and still survive with no problems.

[@kevint1910]

@@carlthor91 the dude has ZERO clue WTF he is doing and if he keeps ramming augers in to that hard wood till they bind up he is going to cause himself some serious problems , the drill did NOT break he sheared off a retaining screw when he reversed the drill with out freeing the bit first. the screw can be replaced with one from the parts list that came with the drill. Milwaukee makes the best drill on the market but that does not mean you get to be an idiot and abuse the equipment with out breaking something. quite frankly if he had been working for me and did that he would be fired for lack of basic common sense.

[@jamesmosley1549]

I think you’re being a bit harsh there Kevin. Is very easy to criticise others, but these guys are still learning on a daily basis. I’m amazed at how well they’ve done. Hats off to them for being honest and showing this

[@Positrack]

I was absolutely building a cringe while mentally willing you to clear the chips right before both of your drilling problems. Like others have said, ya' gotta clear the chips man. Not bagging on you or trying to pile on; you can do stuff with wood I can only aspire to. However, as a metal fab guy, I can speak to drilling technique with a fair bit of experience, and keeping the hole clear will make life way easier for you and your tools.

[@bertv1205]

Get a Hilti - they are awesome.

[@peterconnors1229]

Bert Vanderveen I just posted the same!! Well done.

[@aserta]

Get an older Makita, three generations back( that's as far as my own accord of quality goes). If it's not running ok, then just change the bearings, grease it, and put new brushes in. At one point i had like 20 (same class as the two MilkWalkies and DeWalt in your collection) that i have bought from the flea markets around me because people just can't be bothered to do such simple operations. I spread the love already last year. :( had i known you'd need some, i would sent some your way. Old Makita has never failed me in 30 some years now. Their armatures are top notch and the simple electronics inside were bullet proof. My own, i had stupidly left outside for an entire week (lost it in the yard) and despite the horrid, hellish screaming of rust breaking off from the inside, it still worked just fine.

[@stewartstewartstewart]

SDS Max is the friend you need, that and a bigger drill 🤓

[@llapmsp]

When and if you fix the Milwaukee drills, the chuck retention bolts are more than likely left hand thread, ( or at least the drills I have repaired were). I am really enjoying the videos and your craftsmanship is top notch.

[@user-lm4mm9og1y]

Wondering with vibration from your marine diesel is there a chance that the nuts in the lead keel could work loose? Perhaps they can be wedged in or locked? Have see all types of bolts/nuts work loose with diesel vibration... just a thought ... keep up the great work.

[@hughoneill9861]

Yup. A little Loctite on those nuts won't hurt.

[@plakor6133]

Lock washers?

[@49RRW]

I was thinking, why not thread some of your bronze stock to use instead of a nut and washer in the lead? Easier to thread the bolt (leave it long on the outside), it won't rotate so won't come undone also easier to fish out if it needs replacing.

[@petert3355]

Well they are going to use a wood plug on the slots, no reason why those plugs could not be shaped with a fork on the end to go either side of the nuts to wedge them in place.

[@curtislong4305]

Had the same experience drilling railroad ties with auger bits for rebar on a landscape construction job last year and we broke 2 of those Milwaukee drills in the exact same way before we went back to an older, albeit better built drill.

[@dolvaran]

Even a cheap SDS drill will last way longer than the stuff you are using.

[@stumax1000]

I built an oak timberframe barn. I burnt up a couple of drills and finally ended up with a bosch high torque low speed drill that woorked like a champ.

[@fetzlgebretzlchannel]

Try anything with a proven Quality sign: "made in Germany" when in comes to tools ;) Bosch for instance makes some really strong drills; but watch out for cheap commercial drills they sell as well. Heller is fine as well!

[@lanesteele240]

Felix Lührs That is what happened here. They got the cheap commercial grade Milwaukee and asked it to do a job it is not designed to do. They needed at least a 3/4 in low rpm drill for that part of the project. Those are 500-600 bucks. The drills they are using are 125-150 bucks.

[@kuro8845]

I'm from Germany, and if you want a really powerfull drill, you should use a Hilti drill, those are more Powerfull than Bosch drills i think, but you have to spend at least 400-500€

[@heathschwab]

This is deff a channel I will not fast forward cause I like to catch everything that happens. By the way turned out good even thou the holes was little bigger but awesome job bet other builders wish they did that. O that stuff you out under the brass and all what's that for to keep the wood from rotting. But another great vidoe now to weight week. I guess I'll weight. Lol. Thanks guys big thumbs up and full run time from me. God bless

[@clownrock9558]

If my memory serves me correct you should be able to fix the Milwaukee drills, theres a screw down the middle of the chuck and that should be replaceable.

[@dejorgensen10]

clownrock95 Or return it and get your money back.

[@Mtlmshr]

I congratulate you guys for taking the time to watching out for your health! In my career I unfortunately was never educated to the problems with lead or other problems like those. It has caused me many health issues. I now have lung issues as the result of not using protection. It was a different time, hell they were just beginning to realize that the lead in paint was an issue when I started my metal fabrication career!

[@Kazvon]

Milwaukee hasn't been the same since it got bought by TTi in Hong Kong.

[@jenniferwhite6089]

mmm sure Milwaukee tool break but I have not had to pay for any of the repairs I got with Milwaukee tools, on the other hand, Dewalt would sook you for the repair and fixing the garbage they sell sorry when they stop supporting the 28 volts and 36 volts tools leaving the tools lossless like DeWalt is know for

[@fwinckowski]

Once again all due respect I have been working with tools for a long time good portion of my adult life and really need to be on top of your drill not letting it do its own thing you know you want to position your body in place of the movement of the tool if it does snag so it doesn't get to make any real sudden jerky movements and hold it with all you got to minimize movement between the tool and the bit. P. S. Love the project and your diligence

[@musFuzZ]

when it comes to powerful drills, HILTI is in the "lead". pun intended...

[@pandiyanp5816]

Greatly appreciate your work. Good Luck !

[@devilsfaun4272]

You really need to clear the chips out when drilling wood that deep otherwise you’ll break more drills 😂

[@Taliesin6]

Some lube on the bit helps too, i just rub it with a candle. Works on hand saws and plane bottoms too, everywere metal rubs on wood!

[@dennisdownes9319]

Great job Guys! As an electrician who has used those larger auger bits a million times, I can tell you all the answers you need are below in the comments. We used to drill "upside down" a lot and use our pinker on the trigger. It seemed to be a better grip; especially when we hit nails. Those old New England Mill Floors would want to snap your wrist with the auger. Not sure where you bought it but many times now, the tools at Box Stores are not always the exact drill sold at other places; cheaper quality.

[@WTFIsThisGuyDoing233]

"lol that little drill isn't going to get through that" Drill snaps

[@hanvyj2]

It's lead, it's not a hard material... I think they needed to clear the chips out more. But still, I've out cheaper drills through worse and not had such a catastrophic (and repeatable!) failure...

[@annotten7413]

They need a larger more heavy duty drill

[@jonathancomeau7277]

Milwaukee Fuel series are god's gift to battery power tools. Have used them in oilfield construction and personally own several, all of them have been amazing no complaints

[@ulenmarzjev4827]

Nice job as always.. as for tools, i would go for Makita brusheless 18 or 2x18V.

[@melkingrealestate]

Great job on the keel bolts

[@size1985]

I can recomend Bosch Professional (Blue), Hilti and Makita But i would buy something a little bigger that your old tool

[@IAmFromTheTop]

I second Bosch Professional range, and I know a lot of tradies who have old Hilti drills that seem impossible to kill. My number one tip regardless of the brand would be get the professional level drills, DIY/home handyman drills have always let me down.

[@sanjosejeff]

I agree Hilti is a quality product and they back their stuff. I use their rotohammers at work. I have a 10 year old Milwaukee right angle “hole hawg” drill that will literally break your arm before it would fail. The new hole hawgs have an inertia brake because of injury risk. They’re meant for bigger jobs than the drill you purchased.

[@shatteredbeam]

Makita all the way. Hilti is also amazing. Milkwaukee = "willF*ckye"

[@Maltorn]

Someone watches AvE

[@shatteredbeam]

@@Maltorn Yep, and gone through a couple different brands that broke :)

[@aserta]

Neat trick for stuff like that. You take a bag, cut a round hole, tape it with the hole wide open to the spot you want to drill, drill through the tape, carefully pinch the tape + bag and seal it off closed, easy to dispose in a melting pot (because the bag will evaporate and wood chips would burn).

[@SuperDd40]

Makita, Bosh, Hilti, Walter/Metabo .

[@michaelholopainen2822]

good suggestion, except for Bosh. It is ok for home user (green or blue), but for torturous use like that only Hilti / Makita are likely to survive.

[@sciloj]

Drilling jigs are extremely cheap and easy to modify to accommodate a longer drill bit. Saves drill bits and chucks. Pecking also helps quite a bit. As well as setting up an RPM limiter (if your drill has one). Using SDS shank bits and corresponding chucks is highly recommended for high-torque applications.

[@stuartstratford9543]

Hilti hitachi makita for cordless

[@stevejeffryes5086]

Wild idea: Attach a chuck to an impact wrench. The shaft of the impact is designed to withstand the shock load. You might also improve bit progress. But you might produce smaller lead chips.

[@steventummon6594]

No drill is designed to take a huge load in reverse you just snapping the screw that holds the Chuck on. All you have to do is put the chuck back on and put a new screw in it

[@mikecowan1471]

left hand screw

[@jfbeam]

I was laughing at that, too. Drill is stronger than the set screw.

[@CJR_GentArtist]

Very clever method of using the jig and square to find the vertical hole! Well done!

[@the-ok2ot]

go use HILTI power tools definitely the best. Hikoki Hitachi is very good as well !!!!!!!!!111

[@wolf06291980]

Hilti is definitely the way to go

[@neonexus1955]

Definitely Hilti !!!👍👍

[@timcavazos4199]

I agree Hitachi is a good quality tool 👍

[@JC-ny3kf]

Which specific Hilti drills are you recommending? The cordless Hilti are nothing special.

[@peterparsons7141]

I have a large corded Hitachi than I have run very hard, and hot, but it never “let the smoke out”. I think it could be pushed to the point of no return, but it cools quickly and keeps on. The Hilti are professional grade and pricey and will not let you down but 4 times the cost of the Good large Hitachi.

[@pappyjohn8142]

I have went from Dewalt and Milwaukee and 100% to Makita. Very happy with their quality

[@stevensrspcplusmc]

Your supposed to clean hole out as you go .. your asking to get the bit stuck or broke .. not Milwaukee’s fault.. you brake drills that way

[@floridaman5411]

Mikita hasn’t let me down. I also hear good things about Hilti