Acorn to Arabella - Journey of a Wooden Boat - Episode 87: Epoxy Tests

[@treborsol]

As a glider technician: When glueing wooden spars in glider wings we also used resorcinol glue. The trick was to spread the force by using a thick sheet of rubber between the wood and the clamps. When the wood shrinks a bit this can easiliy be compensated by the rubber while maintaining the clamping force.

[@jannepeltonen2036]

I was thinking of something similar. Glad to know someone has actual experience to show it works :)

[@gunsmoke6230]

Robert Los how long have you been a latent homosexual?

[@2212db]

@@gunsmoke6230 how long have you been a latent twat?

[@JoshuaZangari]

This seems like the 3 dollar solution to my million dollar idea of sprung clamp heads.... Dammit. Lol. J/K, When I thought of putting springs my I immediately realized that stall matts would probably be a cheaper and more effective solution.

[@billgiles3261]

I guess if the graving piece and recess were held in the warming box overnight it would have been “pre-shrunk” and not subject to the loosening that was experienced.

[@Laz_Arus]

I was glued to this episode 😉

[@ferky123]

Couldn't put it down.

[@9thfromthestar]

Stick around for more!

[@petergroves9343]

Groans!!! 🤨🤨

[@Mahalo_83]

We could really bond over this

[@jamesnichols9753]

As a young boy we would go by a farm on our way to my uncle's house. In the big old barn I could see the bone of a wooden ship being built. This was in the late 50's, early 60's and I watched a lot because I almost l lived with my uncle. I would walk down to the farmhouse to watch the men work on the boat that took almost all of the barn up. I was then move to northern Michigan and the next time I went to my uncle's the barn was gone and also the boat. I never knew what happen or where the boat went but it ahold of me to this very day. Your doing good work to show me and I hope young kids what comes from hard work with wood. Thank you.

[@kilianruess1156]

I know I am late with this, but anyways: I love the new intro! How you brought back the melody, and how you worked it into a new masterpiece of lovely harmony. And the visuals and everything, it is really great to see how this evolves along with the boat getting its shape. Thanks Ben!

[@msullivan1]

(Ben is awesome btw)

[@uitgeverijbetelgeuze5963]

You guys are great! Every week Friday I look out for your new adventures. Now there is an easy way to defeating crimp when clamping. Make a caul of the right size and make a curve on the side that is to the joint that is to be glued. Clamping the caul straight out wil act as a spring and keep the clamps fixed. Keep on going!

[@jonmassey8124]

Kudos to JamesTown for sending competition products as well as their own. Was very happy to see the tests were so successful for them and you

[@jacobanderson843]

This is like saying, "thanks west marine for sending multicaulk instead of life caulk:. they sell, and profit from both. it's all about profit.

[@douglasgodfrey6514]

Never thought watching and waiting for glue to dry could be that interesting

[@harmlessprankster8417]

Way better than watching paint dry.

[@ericericson3131]

@@harmlessprankster8417 if you have to have the right circumstances, even watching paint dry will be interesting

[@harmlessprankster8417]

@@ericericson3131 depends how good the drugs are.

[@bullettube9863]

An old wood workers tip I once used was to put a valve spring under the clamp. This transmitted the clamping force and if the wood shrank the spring kept the clamp under constant force. You have to be careful though, too much force and the adhesive gets squeezed out. Another trick was to use softer wood under the clamps, the wood compresses and if the wood shrinks it will expand keeping the clamping force constant. Your biggest problem is temperature control for the large planks. The only other solution to the one you're using, is to heat the entire enclosure which would require a tight seal and insulation to keep the heat in, plus the problem of producing the heat to begin with, and the cost of doing so. I remember helping a co-worker replace planks on a damaged boat and we had to stop as soon as the temps went below 50 degrees. The planks we were replacing were a lot smaller than what you're using, and we were also using the old formaldehyde base glue which no one uses anymore. There are better adhesives on the market now which set regardless of moisture content. tannin content, and are not as temperature sensitive.

[@clifficus]

That glue testing is crazy, had I not seen it with my own eyes, I wouldn’t have believed that a glue joint could take that kinda pressure, amazing 👍😃

[@macman6107]

This was another great episode, yes I am way behind where things are in the world right now on the build, but the glue test was a real eye opener. I really loved the but at the end giving time for the volunteers to tell a bit about their story. Fantastic story this has been so far, even my wife is now really enjoying the build process and there is no chance of her ever standing next to a boat letalone build one. On to the next episode I go. I forgot one last thing. It deeply concerns me with regards the lack of eye protection, especially with the glue tests. We're all invincible until we're not.

[@K.E.L-117]

This was a brilliant example of how far our chemical and material sciences have come.

[@edsautter51]

Just thinking out side the box but I see when you put the plank up brought this to my mind. The scarf joint was vertical but the gaving pieces were horizontal. When you bend the plank into place the long plank has enough length to take the bend and the scarf joint bend looks to be minimal and because the glue joint is vertical the joint is trying to pull the seam apart. However the graving piece, which looks to be 18" to 20" long can't take the bend, and at that point the glue shears off sideways. Because one way the joint is pulling against the glue joint and the other is in shear. My theory is that one holds better than the other and is causing your failure. This is only a theory and not tested. Glad you have found a work around so far. Time will tell if this works too. Thanks for the videos and allowing us to be part of your build. I look forward to seeing the progress. Can't wait till she is up and sailing.

[@cliveclapham6451]

Ed, was thinking the same thing.

[@edsautter51]

Agree they should have pinned this at the least or made it tongue and groove. That would add to the strength of the joint.

[@itsnotmeitshim]

I scrolled down the comments looking for this and ed, I think you hit the nail on the head.

[@davidc6510]

Great study on your adhesive problem. Thanks guys and good luck...look forward to seeing more progress on Arabella! Special shout out to all your volunteers that have helped out on building Arabella! Woot you guys are awesome!

[@robertmeadows895]

I am no boat builder but 50+ years ago I helped to build one ! Cascamite was used, we did very many glue tests was always the mahogany that shattered ! Thank you for all your videos !!

[@glastronjohn1]

Nice test. I haven't used Thixo, but I used 20 gallons of West Systems replacing the stringers, frames and sole of our 24' power boat. All biax glass with a mixture of fillers. Strong as hell, just don't mix too much at once. It'll go off in a fuming, toxic mess. Those mixing tubes are too much trouble. Just get some paper bowls and mix by hand. When the leftover epoxy in the bowl is cured up hard, you'll know when your joint is ready. At work we build skins and panels using prepreg, metal infused carbon fiber, vacuum bagged and cured in autoclaves. Parts for the F-35 fighter. Those parts are literally bulletproof. Thanks for sharing. Dig your project.

[@jacksonms212]

Seeing how far you guys have come since pouring the keel ... well no words mate !

[@brianmifsud4531]

Shrinking lumber leading to loose clamping..... my first thought when you were faced with that problem with the resorcinol glue was to spring load your clamps... by choosing the right durometer and thickness of rubber sheet, you could preload the clamps with enough "overkill" that when the wood shrinks, you'd still have enough clamping force for joint success. The other thing you might consider is to put a pan of water in the bottom of your heating box to keep the humidity UP. The heat from the lamps is driving the water out of the wood in the low humidity COLD air, which seems to be the root cause of the shrinkage. Wonderful build. Thanks for documenting this.

[@RobertFay]

*Precision scientific load testing that even i can understand. ||| I am sure your trials and tribulations, and the understanding you have gathered from them will serve others very well... so thank you.*

[@keatoncampbell820]

Here's a neat idea: since you're losing clamping pressure due to shrinkage, try combating the shrinkage directly. Leave a wet paper towel or maybe a cup of water in the heater box. That may keep the plank from losing as much moisture, or perhaps if its not due to moisture loss, the addition of moisture might swell it enough to keep the pressure on. Just a thought, keep up the great work!

[@dpratt776]

I dont comment nearly enough, thank you both for capturing your journey and the fantastic detail you go to that helps all other boat builders out there. Your build along with Tally Ho are two of the best shows of there type bar none. Well done guys.

[@mmckinley345]

Safty Squints - Got debris in my eye doing something very similar and with wood, they can't use a magnet to get it out like metal. Ask me how I know(hint I am not a doctor) but he sure had fun looking in my eyeball. When things like that explode your reaction is never fast enough. I know this kind of thing is fun but = Stay safe my friend you don't want to get your eye patch before you even get the boat on the water and pretend you are a pirate. Great info, great video, great job ramping up the video quality and production. You guys should be on PBS.

[@gregmirr]

I worked as a Construction Quality control inspector , your destructive testing of the Res glue versus the Epoxy was very impressive and once again you guys are keeping the build to a very high level of quality assurance . Ararbella will no doubt be fit for what the ocean throws at her ..well done guys

[@cameronboyce4695]

It's great to see that you all have found a solution to your gluing problem. Cant wait to see Arabella as she starts getting her planking and starts to look like the finished product.

[@brucebeglin7240]

Forget the red glue. Use straight West system with 205 or 206 ( fast or slow) When gluing oak rough up the gluing surfaces with sand paper first unless they were just cut. Have built numerous woods boats with West. Glued oak, ash, mahogany, cedar, cypress, sepele, okume, etc etc. never a failure. My advice. Bruce Beglin Windemere Boats Oxford, MD

[@georgefricke1373]

Bruce Beglin ;

[@EddieTheGrouch]

Glad you got the glue problem solved. I was thinking that in the future, if needed, you could place a Belleville spring washer (they can be stacked) between the clamp and wood to maintain pressure as the clamp expands and the wood contracts or as a way to ensure even pressure between all the clamps. Better yet, replace the cheapo swivel foot on the clamps with stout Bellevilles.

[@yonatanbenavraham6598]

A true test would have been to test Resorcinol against Epoxy. In my own experience Resorcinol works good with Red Oak but Epoxy works better with White Oak. I laminated a forty five foot main upper floor support timber in a house out of 2"X12's" to make the timber 12"X12"X 45'. After many destructive tests the Resorcinol worked better and was less expensive than the epoxy on Douglas Fir. When scarf joining marine grade plywood I only recommend epoxy mainly west systems. Keep up the outstanding work brothers, I watch each new episode with great anticipation. Thank you!

[@FIAWOLpi]

I'm so happy you found the solution, I didn't quite realize how much this mattered to me. Great work.

[@atthebrink74]

Your destruction tests on those graving pieces was pretty cool. I built an 18 foot technical poling skiff (super shallow water fishing machine!), stitch and glue. I've been running her for 5 years now with no issues. That epoxy is amazing stuff! Good luck with Arabella. Enjoy the build time, it's half the fun. You guys should be building a little tender skiff at the same time. The skiff would be something that folks could tackle in their own back yard.

[@juncusbufonius]

Well done guys. It must have been a frustrating few weeks. Onward and upward. Oh, it was nice to hear someone saying "faffing" on a US channel.

[@frederickhansen7108]

I'm so glad you guys figured out the glue situation, now you an us can move forward with the build!!

[@GregorShapiro]

I would test by twisting the graving piece boards. I think that the more complex strain from twisting would be more revealing.

[@billgiles3261]

I love the mixture of artistry, technology and science. Perfectly presented as well. It make my Fridays worthwhile. When Arabella is launched I hope that we can continue to follow her adventures.

[@sportsrevisited9699]

this was exactly what i was hoping to see. seeing the wood break before the seam did makes an indelible impression on a person. it's counter intuitive, at least for me, to feel a seam could be stronger than the material itself.

[@darrylmcleman6456]

Thumbs up on the epoxy.I have just finished putting new wood in fiberglass runabout and no issues with epoxy.Cheers from Canada

[@samcavoulas8437]

What's up guys. Been watching since the start. If the epoxy doesnt work how you want you could always attach a temp controller to a fan and place it in your hot box. Set the temp and when it gets to hot the temp controller will kick the fan on.

[@SuperRaymondh]

the tests on those oak chunks were very cool. You guys are doing fantastic work, and I'd love to come volunteer in the summer.

[@alecmackay89]

I jumped when that first Thixo test piece broke! xD man that blue masking tape is really holding everything together nicely

[@calebreutener870]

It's the best kept secret, blue masking tape is the strongest adhesive known to man.

[@ianboddy4368]

@@calebreutener870 Only if you leave it on longer than they recommend.

[@peterengel7885]

It is even better than duck tape.

[@Phantomthecat]

This episode was like watching glue dry... oh, wait... Great episode, good to see this will get you guys back on track. 👍

[@thomasarussellsr]

Glad you found a fix for the graving pieces, but also glad you didn't knock the boat over. Suggestion, double check your center line on the frames and moulds since you twisted that grubbing a bit. That last failure definitely warranted a slo-mo, thanks for including that in the video. Now, back to work with what we have discovered about the epoxy. Might I suggest keeping the tubes warm until your ready to use them? Also, you'd likely get an even better longer life hold with some roughness to the plank and graving piece. Maybe even just some dimples drilled in both sides for a more mechanical hold rather than just smooth with a chemical only hold? Just a thought, I've seen it done both ways.

[@Studio-gp4nk]

Guys I’ve been watching since day 1. Viewing you testing the scarf joints on this episode I noted the quantity of wood chips on the ground. Fire fire Fire is your enemy but your housekeeping needs attention. If I didn’t live in the UK I’d happily be your labourer and volunteer to clean up. Food for fire or food for thought. Great show 11/10

[@jovangrbic97]

May I recommend machining up a spare Delrin prop liner and any of the other 'exotic' parts you are making, who knows where you'll be in the future, and what tooling and know how will be available. Costs very little to make a duplicate or two, and and items that could be considered to wear, will be worth gold when having to be replaced!

[@scottwatson5767]

I think if I were to build a wooden boat and need to glue joints up, I would be using the epoxy glue for reasons shown here! I never would have thought it would hold up to those kind of pressures. Amazing. Think I would rethink the whole resourcinol glue situation!!!

[@loonatticat]

I really enjoy when you take the time to test unknowns and verify the best course of action instead of just plowing forward with full faith in your correctness. The corrosion tests on different fasteners was particularly fascinating.

[@Termenoil]

Exploding blocks of wood are always fun haha. Great episode!

[@jamesbrewer3020]

Glad to see the progress with the glue problems. Hope all keeps going well.

[@markmcginn8012]

Excellent materials and adhesives testing process. Well done A2A team!

[@tolbaszy8067]

Very useful video! Those heater boxes are clever! Thanks!

[@BillB23]

From the get-go I've liked how you soldier (or is it sailor?) on through the inevitable difficulties. That Jamestown supports you and others without demanding limelight speaks volumes. I eagerly await your next installment. BTW, I've seen several channels using TotalBoat products in non-marine applications. Keep on keepin' on! I can't wait until I can wish you fair winds and following seas.

[@paulorchard7960]

Never used thexo, your test has certainly proved the product to me! Have used West System products may times and have never had a product fail. Each as good as the other is what i see from this. Great to see the testing, proving samples takes away guess work!

[@Deftonesdsm]

Love your guys' scientific approach to all this. Keep it up

[@luuk341]

Dang Jamestown! That is some top notch epoxy you have sent these guys. And though I agree that the epoxies are MORE than strong enough for the graving pieces, and you have tested them as best you could I believe. I would have been interested in seeing which one of the epoxies is the strongest, though that would require more equipment to test. Anyway, I am happy to see that Arabella is on her way to getting more planking! Keep up the good work!

[@kenolson3064]

I have always used West System's products, the demonstrations of the different competitors epoxies have sold me.

[@GrantWyness]

I nearly spat my teeth out when I watched this - formaldehyde glue is so old-school - I have spent many years (UK) repairing old joints that have used this glue. Wooden speed boats literally blow apart as the glue ages. This type of glue is inherently brittle. I was amused (kindly) you were actually mixing the stuff in cold conditions. Formaldehyde glue has to be kept at stable temps for storage and for mixing, not just drying/curing. Epoxy has none of the brittle failings, neither does PU glue. Epoxy can be used with a variety of ad-mixes to enhance tricky joints or a fillet situation (remember it hates heat). PU glue has been holding high performance boats, and structural laminated beams together for years now. Laminated beams are under many tonnes of stress and have to be guaranteed for life. PU glue is 100% sea-waterproof/acid-proof (nice Kung-Foo against the tannin in timber) and is moisture curing. This means your timbers don’t have to be moisture critical - no other glue boasts this. Even epoxy has to have low moisture to grip properly. PU like Formaldehyde is not gap filling and needs pressure - PU does expand, but it’s not structural. PM me if you want the full workflow for this application. I would kindly suggest re-doing the lower planks. A bust scarf-joint below the waterline is a bummer. All the best and I mean that! Please stop with the ancient tech, it’s killing me...

[@Florreking]

Yeah I dont understand it either

[@Wayoutthere]

Mystery to me as well.. It has been rapidly overtaken by epoxy glues, even like 30 years ago

[@GrantWyness]

OKuusava - I agree. The old stuff was an unfinished science. Today, the admixtures and chemistry has solved the old UV and seawater-exposure issues. PU is still my first choice.

[@johno6861]

I would never put a scarf joint under water, no matter what you glued it up with. Except if you were sheeting over the whole hull. I could never sleep at night without worrying about it.

[@RobertFay]

*"I would kindly suggest re-doing the lower planks. A bust scarf-joint below the waterline is a bummer. All the best and I mean that!" Truly supportive encouragement for what seems to be good reasons, all of which you have drawn from the wisdom of your considerable experience so clearly and nicely detailed here. Kudos to you, Sir, for the selfless sharing of your knowledge.*

[@robertmecalis7189]

Nice to see you guys do the research and development on those glue joints had me concerned for a while.

[@todddunn945]

Glad to see you guys finally trying epoxy. Those glue lines are certainly stronger than the wood.

[@MAndersenbamboorods]

Well that makes me happy I use west marine for gluing the handles on my knives. I knew this Channel would help me with something Thank you

[@antonoat]

Obviously a labour of love for folks who have a different idea of what real fun is, lol. Good luck guys.

[@AcornToArabella]

Some of it is indeed type II fun. But the feeling of accomplishment and the return on investment down the road is SO worth it. We’ll be able to cruise the world having adventures on our own boat! To us, that is a no brained! (But yes, we’re likely crazy haha)

[@antonoat]

@@AcornToArabella Please don't misunderstand me, I was not being critical in any way, I think what you are all achieving is on another level brilliant and so worthwhile. Cheers from the UK.

[@spdrcr1010]

Perfect videos for my Friday morning coffee breaks, been watching since the lead pour. Its awesome when projects start showing their final shape!

[@themerrigans2734]

So glad you guys figured out the glue issue, plus it made for a great video.

[@starchaser2489]

Very nice work guys. Your choice of using Epoxy is my field of expertise for the last 40 years. I build X-Planes. The only thing you did wrong was using a graduation container. That will not work. You need a digital scale to get the proper amounts of part's A & B. Make your measurements in grams. Find your mixing amounts on your choice of epoxy. Now make a chart starting with 100 grams of part A, we always started at no less than 100 grams. If you start under 100 grams the chances are you will run the risk of not getting this perfect. So we had the mixing chart go to 300 grams total. And when your finished using a cup and or a brush, never throw it in a garbage can, it will exotherm and start a fire. Also the smoke it makes is cyanide, so do have adequate ventilation or you will get a RIPPING HEADACHE. Here is a example of the chart. Grams part A Part B Total amount 100 25 125 105 30 135 and so on. Use a good digital scale to weigh each cup full, never use the same cup twice. I built the B-2 prototype and others. You still deserve a Thumbs up from me... ────────────────────░███░ ───────────────────░█░░░█░ ──────────────────░█░░░░░█░ ─────────────────░█░░░░░█░ ──────────░░░───░█░░░░░░█░ ─────────░███░──░█░░░░░█░ ───────░██░░░██░█░░░░░█░ ──────░█░░█░░░░██░░░░░█░ ────░██░░█░░░░░░█░░░░█░ ───░█░░░█░░░░░░░██░░░█░ ──░█░░░░█░░░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──░█░░░░░█░░░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──░█░░█░░░█░░░░░░░░█░░█░ ─░█░░░█░░░░██░░░░░░█░░█░ ─░█░░░░█░░░░░██░░░█░░░█░ ─░█░█░░░█░░░░░░███░░░░█░ ░█░░░█░░░██░░░░░█░░░░░█░ ░█░░░░█░░░░█████░░░░░█░ ░█░░░░░█░░░░░░░█░░░░░█░ ░█░█░░░░██░░░░█░░░░░█░ ─░█░█░░░░░████░░░░██░ ─░█░░█░░░░░░░█░░██░█░ ──░█░░██░░░██░░█░░░█░ ───░██░░███░░██░█░░█░ ────░██░░░███░░░█░░░█░ ──────░███░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░█░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░░░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░░░░░░█░ ──────░█░░░░░░░░░░░░░█░

[@adydearden5657]

Chuffed your sorted the glue out, it will be good to see some planks going on.. Love the show...

[@ahti29]

Project like this brings together great people like these volunteers in this episode.I should start building a boat to bring all this positive energy in my home👍

[@martin_mue]

I think with the graving pieces the additional problem is the shape. When the plank is bend the wedge shape levers the piece out. It is basically as if you would drive a wedge between the piece and the plank, there are forces applied on the joint in almost every direction.

[@corlissmedia2.0]

Martin Muehlhaeuser very good observation!

[@benjaminrhodes9611]

Good troubleshooting. Good testing. Great work guys!

[@GodOfBiscuits66]

Should have engaged your safety squints on those failure tests! I am very glad that you guys have found a solution and I am very impressed that you guys were able to deduce what happened. Very clever!

[@paulcopeland9035]

I am sure they did. The force of the break would certainly trigger the " squint " reaction!

[@court2379]

Ha, I commented about them using squint glasses the other day. I usually take more risks than I should on projects, but wearing glasses is effortless. You get an acrylic or epoxy shaving in your eye, and it will convert you. Hard to see (clear), sharp, and doesn't break down over time.

[@kosmoa.k.agizmokos7593]

Thanks for sharing your results with the epoxy adhesives, was absolutely brilliant watching their strength...seriously awesome to see the glue join hold up and the surrounding grain fail under your test, yeah just awesome!!

[@jackdotzman2908]

Excellent explanation on how you’re using the different types of glues, then sharing your test results, great viewing. The shout out to TotalBoat for sending you a sample of the West System was first class. Looks like the epoxies are the way.to go your applications. It’s interesting, after watching your test, how strong the bonding agents are that are available today. From Missouri

[@lafarm123]

That is real science boys! Experimenting, observing and concluding! Way to go. That was so cool.

[@cf6282]

Projet des six jours Real slid method! These guys are good!

[@bobuk5722]

Hi. Possibly the amount of shrinkage also depends on the grain orientation in the plank. The scarf joints are at right angles to those on the graving pieces. BobUK.

[@jeremykamel9655]

Nicely done on your destructive testing.

[@Chris.from.1950]

Good work, guys. Rational materials and process testing! Yeah!

[@oikkuoek]

Problem with that knot fix is, that the load is uneven between the glued pieces. When elongating a plank, the tension to the glue seam is perpendicular. It is trying to rip the seam apart to the direction the glue was designed to hold. On those knot fixes, the tension is horizontal. The plank twists while the fix piece tries to stay straight, and that is too much to ask for from about every glue available. I'd suggest poly-urethane glues, they have flexible qualities. Straight epoxy becomes fragile when cured.

[@mastheadmike]

Nearly 20 years out of college and an unused Naval Architecture degree, I feel like there is significant merit in a formal journal paper by a Maritime College or Webb Inst student on the strengths of glued joints for yacht construction. You guys have done great work with informal tests! I’d love to see some numbers on the forces applied á la Matthias Wandel’s channel.

[@dennisdownes9319]

Great video.....I'm glad you didn't tip over the boat! Hahahah. I have love Jamestown Distributors since they were in Jamestown RI. I loved how you gave some time to the people who have been helping you. Would love to see more! DD

[@dwel2928]

From my experience with epoxy: with hard wood like white oak, which has quite low porosity, you'll get maximum adhesion if you roughen the wood with coarse sandpaper first. Then coat each side with just mixed (and warm!) epoxy, helps penetration if the wood is warm too. Then thicken what's left with Cabosil (fumed silica), and maybe some wood dust, to the consistency of mayonnaise. Use it for the glue layer. Do not clamp too hard. Let set for 24 hrs minimum, longer if it's cold. Epoxy is way better as a glue when thickened. I used West for my first boat (30+ years ago), but MAS brand ever since. It seems to be more forgiving, and never blushes, nor flashes in the cup.

[@mikefurlong8025]

I wonder how hard would it be to rig up a couple of G clamps with a Belleville washer stack on the business end to maintain a sprung clamping load as the wood shrinks? It would also be good to confirm your theory of Resorcinol failure by lack of clamping load by doing two parallel tests, one with regular clamps, and one with sprung clamps, and confirm that the one with regular clamps fails under considerably less load. Fascinating build. Will be following.

[@jannepeltonen2036]

If at first you don't succeed... Awesome to show these learning processes, too! Thank you!

[@h2energynow]

Awesome to see other people help out, and learn a great deal about building.

[@tl4ever262]

Hi Guy's.Thomas here.I've been watching your adventure from the week you poured the lead ballast. You two are really great at the art of boat building.Many years of learning.Could you do a short video of whats going on behind the lens. Your camera work is very nice and fluid. Fan4ever.If you film i'll follow...Ps It's the weekend so im going to binge watch your streams.Pease and Prosperity to you and your kin.

[@jerryglen986]

You gentlemen are really professional.

[@radamus210]

Those epoxy tests were pretty incredible- I'd say those worked just fine!

[@spudthegreaterusa8386]

Im going to venture a speculation that when you finally get to the point of launch you'll have over million subscribers and then we can all follow you on your voyages and watch you do repairs and see what your experiences in building Arabella have prepared you for out on the sea. Looking forward to those days gents....

[@Ayns.L14A]

You always make my friday's that little bit better thanks guy's.

[@johntripp2028]

That was a great test. Flex was definitely not a good as Gflex or Thixo. By a long shot. Don't forget leverage. From the point the jacking force is applied to the first clamp was your lever. compare that to from the point of jacking force to the glue line. That is where the Flex failed. I think you have found your solution. I think I'm going to go buy some Thixo. You have added to the knowledge base for all of us woodworkers. Thanks

[@cobra035]

Fantastic job solving the problem! Now Geter done boys! I love your videos.

[@martinpiggins5772]

Maybe strip out 3 of the bulbs in the heat boxes that way the ambient temperature will build gradually and you shouldn’t experience the shrinking?🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿👍

[@madispoldsaar]

Great to see that you found the solution and you can continue!

[@michaelowen2076]

For thixo , I use a caulk-gun by Newborn, they have much higher thrust-ratio than a regular gun. A bit more expensive, but worth every penny. Keep up the great work. Mike

[@stevbrkr]

Are you sure it is the planks shrinking with the heat? It could well be that the clamps are expanding. I would preheat the clamps to a higher temperature than anticipated in the heat box. That way the will "cool" slightly and clamp with more force. Edit. As you took them out of the heat box those clamps are loose. I would boil them in water prior to putting them on or warm them with some gas and re-tighten.

[@aquacruisedb]

Very good point

[@chosena91]

spitballing it without knowing the exact dimensions of the clamp, the temperature difference and the material the clamp is made of, its body only expands by a millimeter probably, and given the screw of the clamp is made out of a quite similar steel it would expand by some amount as well even diminishing the reduction in clamping force due to the clamp body expaning im not saying the clamp doesnt expand, but its nothing that giving the clamp an extra quarter turn initially wouldnt compensate easily as example number, a 500mm clamp body would expand roughly .3mm given a 40k temperature difference(40f to 100f like they mentioned in the previous video)

[@HarmanRobotics]

Could also preheat the wood and clamps together so that they are at the right temperature, then glue.

[@EITURKEY1]

amazing demo of how well modern glues work.....

[@meetim6271]

11:20 "happy with that one, it broke underneath the cribbing, not where the scarf was" To be fair, the point in contact with the cribbing was the point of maximum bending moment, the scarf joint was not subject to the same moment. if you REALLY want to test your scarf joint, flip the joint upside down so the fine edge of the joint is on the bottom near the cribbing, so its in tension, not compression.

[@stevee4621]

It could be the clamps expanding as they warm up as they are steel - try pre heating them before clamping - they may even shrink a little if you get them nice and toasty before they are applied and counteract the wood shrinkage.

[@jkrudolf15]

Clamps sound like aluminum. Expansion. Maybe mic the wood width first. Shrinkage. Hmmm.

[@mojavejoel]

That is the first thing I thought of too.

[@martin_mue]

My thinking too. Also the clamps are black so they absorb more of the infrared heat from the light bulbs then the wood.

[@zoomzabba452]

@@jkrudolf15 good odds those are steel clamps. Aluminum ones have a lower load rate and a higher price.

[@harrymoyes5069]

@@shawn9356 Someone up thread gave the thermal coefficient of expansion of wood and steel, showing steel as the clear winner. However, the oak AtoA is using is nothing like fully seasoned (for very good reason, since they want to torture it into the shape of the hull), so as well as the differential thermal expansion to consider, there is the possibility of shrinkage of the oak drying in the heat, independent of thermal effects, possibly shrinking very significantly more than the clamp expansion with heat, and the effects are additive. Hence clamps literally falling off. The long term behavior of the epoxy/oak joint in water may not be as well established as a good resourcinol bond, but the graving pieces will be under the maximum stress during the plank installation, and the joint will be further forced together by the caulking of the planks, so I think the working load on the graving piece joint as part of the hull be minimal. So as long as the joint survives installation, and caulking, the likelihood of that joint failing in service, as long as the graving piece is butted up to a solid plank, not another graving piece on the next plank, is minimal.

[@zbomb33]

Always the best way to start the day, Boat building and a teaching moment as well! Keep up the good work fellas!

[@commonsense7754]

Been using West Systems G Flex for a number of timber bonding applications and it's the best I've found. Admittedly nothing as large as your boat. I find it penetrates just enough to harden the join area and is not particularly brittle unlike many I've tried. It's advertised as suitable for high impact, vibration and temperature and humidity changes. It does however benefit from consistent moderate temperatures (25-30 degrees C) both for mixing, cure time and consistent results. Your project may benefit from an epoxy like Thixo that will fill any small voids under light clamping pressure.

[@donr416]

Amazing results on the epoxy glues.

[@steveclark6190]

i'ved used a lot of resorcinal glue and what i did was weald car rocker springs onto the end of the clamps so as to keep presure on the joint- seems to work for me.

[@stevegem4155]

I tried to tell you about epoxy when you first had the failure with the resorcinol now I'm going to try to impart a little more knowledge to you. white oak is not a big fan of glue up even though you had some real good success. however when you cut your scarves or fit your graving pieces leave The Mating surfaces rough so the epoxies can get a good grip G Flex or thixol doesn't penetrate well ( especially in White Oak) for obvious reasons. Make a saw cut through one of those test pieces and look at it for yourself. For added insurance use a real low viscosity epoxy such as West system 105 resin and any hardener you pick( all West system epoxy are compatible so you can use them in any combination) wet out the joint, allow it to soak in (10 minutes) then put your G Flex on that will give you the best possible Bond in White Oak

[@David-hm9ic]

Great suggestion. WEST even recommends brushing some unaltered 105/hardener onto surfaces prior to applying epoxy with a thickener or other filler because the milled glass fibers, carbon fiber, Micro Light, etc. inhibit the glue soaking onto the wood.

[@Satorisails77]

Would it be practical to heat the surface of the wood, then make sure the epoxy is above 80 degrees before applying? I have had good success with penetration doing so. Just curious of your thoughts.

[@stevegem4155]

Lowering the viscosity of the glue is definitely in your favor however if this was an added step in the process I don't think I would go to the trouble

[@aaronpreston47]

Hey guys! Awesome work! If you want the epoxy to be easier to work with you can place the tubes/bottles in a warm water bath to make it flow easier. Keep up the good work.

[@markkmiecik9797]

I heartily recommend the use of eye protection when you do stuff like this. It's hard to build a boat when you can't see anything.

[@HLXanthus]

If the cause is too high temps in the heat boxes that you are essentially kiln drying the joints, why not add a thermostat to the boxes and keep them at a more consistent temp? And/or add a pan of water to the box to help keep hydrated. Or even add a light diffuser to break the directional heat from the bulbs? Got to say, these last few videos are legit. Nice to see you challenged by and overcoming these obstacles.