10 Reasons Why A Mini Split Flare May Be Leaking Refrigerant!

[@acservicetechchannel]

The E-Book and Paperback at our Website: www.acservicetech.com/the-book The Paperback at Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support the Channel- www.patreon.com/acservicetech Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool - amzn.to/2OBxGlM Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool with Set Depth - amzn.to/2QIKsQH Yellow Jacket Torques Wrench - amzn.to/2NRR68Q Nylog - amzn.to/2MLJcch Ridgid Tubing Cutter - amzn.to/2DnjjR1 Wolverine Tube Reamer - amzn.to/2QGLyMV Nitrogen Regulator- amzn.to/2bXdR5f Uniweld NitroVue Flow Regulator- amzn.to/2GnsaAo Uniweld Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Air Acetylene Torch setup- amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods- amzn.to/2gVLyLc Uniweld Cap-N-Hook and #2 Tip Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup- amzn.to/2STp3Fe Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup #1 &#2 Tip- amzn.to/2SRm3JF #2 Tip for Oxy Acetylene Torch- amzn.to/2SPDaeD Cap-N-Hook Tip for Oxy Acetylene Setup- amzn.to/2MbhpUk Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector - amzn.to/2ckWACn 25 Valve Cores - amzn.to/2L37UJU 25 ¼” Brass Port Caps with rubber O-rings - amzn.to/2GIOdD2 Brass Valve Core Tool which holds 3 valve cores - amzn.to/2GFEbm2 Valve Core Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2GHiLoD Locking Cap Universal Lock/Unlock Tool - amzn.to/2GGAoVp Locking caps - amzn.to/2GFXZ8A Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Yellow Jacket Sealright 90 Coupler- amzn.to/2LsU1V7 Yellow Jacket 1pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2uXdF18 Yellow Jacket 3pk Compact Ball Valve- amzn.to/2AiKfQe Thumb Screw Valve Core Depressor with Backseat- amzn.to/2mR0sCL UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq Digital Refrigerant Scale amzn.to/2b9oXYl Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2nFYKVe Accutrak VPE-GN Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2Zy4IZP FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Ultrasonic Leak Detector with Headphones- amzn.to/2B2cRO3 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech

[@jonnassilva6553]

it is possible to translate the e-book into Brazilian Portuguese ?

[@SpecialKthx]

throw rocks at me but in 10 years, I havent debur a flair, never used a torque wrench, oil only on 1/2 and up, and I tight them alot, probly the double of what they recommend seriously, and in around 300 units per year, I get around 1% leak, maybe by doing that I could lower that to 0 :) also I dont understand why they sell the flairing tool with the stopper, the stopper stop the 1/4 too early and thats the main reason why we have installer going for 10% leak ratio just by using this flairing tool!

[@MRM-wp4gr]

@@SpecialKthx Are you referring to the flaring tool that he recommends in this video? The Yellow Jacket 60295 Flaring

[@SpecialKthx]

@@MRM-wp4gr the yellow jacket 60295 flaring tool is the one I use everyday, it is my favorite one. The one with the stopper is the 60278, it is my least favorite one, it does nice looking flare but they are too thin, mostly because there is a stopper too help as a measurement, but the problem is that it is the same stopper for all size and 1/4 tubing usually makes small flares because of this. On the other hand, the 60295 has no stopper and you need to eyeball just like at 10:30 ,so you can let say have 1/8in out for 1/4 tubing and 1/16 for 1/2 tubing. Also the 60295 has a clutch that make you stop flaring, so you don't have to guess that part! The 60278 doesn't have a clutch. Also I'm pretty sure my method make bigger flares and probably takes more force to be sealed tight, I don't use a torque wrench and they are probably over tighten by a lot. Unless you strip a 2 or 3 way valve you are fine because if you do, you will hate yourself!

[@pg_usa]

Hack: use little compressor oil when you make the flair... Reduce the problems

[@victoryfirst2878]

This is one of the most comprehensive discussions on the subject matter I have ever seen on KZbin. Well done fella for sure.

[@gkk2001]

You are providing a fantastic resource for the DIY crowd. And that is probably a lot of people today. I had a mini split installed by an HVAC contractor and it cost me $3500. I know they need to make a living but the new units on the market with the right tools and know how, I figure the total install cost drops to

[@shanefrank3281]

I got 2 quotes and one was $6000 + the cost of running the electrical outlet. The other was $5500 and wanted to put the outdoor unit outside a bedroom window.

[@pepetravel74]

😳 that’s a lot of money for a mini split installed, I charge 600 $ for installed only

[@muhammadsufyanbinhafiz6451]

Wait, what ? you charge 600 USD for installed per unit only ? Here in my country there is contractor charging only 53 USD, so cheap for 2 hours works. @@pepetravel74

[@zeejimi4044]

In Europe it is strictly forbidden for a DIYer to install an aircon, and the fine for doing so can be up tp €50000 (more in dollars). As shown in this video, it is important to get the flaring done properly so that the refrigerant doesn’t leak out into our atmosphere, and the procedure requires some skill and practice. Installers are taking advantage of this situation, and ripping-off their customers with huge costs for just a few hours of work.

[@vertihvost7675]

I use window units and cannot be happier that I don’t have to deal with anyone!!!

[@KpxUrz5745]

Sirs: I have watched thousands of videos including quite a few on the topic of HVAC, and this one ranks as probably the best video I've ever seen on this topic. I greatly appreciate the careful details of the prepared script, which describes all steps with crystal clarity. And, the clarity of each step of video filming is equally impressive. I will rewatch this multiple times to perfect these techniques for my own purposes, even though I am not working in this industry. Really superb work, gentlemen!

[@beentheredonethatoriginals5673]

Great video, I broke the copper connector by not properly supporting it with a wrench while tightening it. The break was on the inside so I didn't see it until I released the refrigerant. What a bad day that was. Supporting the connection with a solid grip is very important.

[@SihAza]

True that haste often makes bigger problems. We all have war stories which haunt us.

[@anthonyjames4478]

Boy, do I like videos that just get right to it: describe the problem and then the solution without telling us about a great vacation you just took. Nicely done and learned some important things about connecting flared ends that I had not considered. Thank you!

[@jpenn727]

I’m not an HVAC person and never will be, but I find your videos great and I’ve learned a lot about the techniques used to fix issues. Thanks you so much.

[@nickdawa8062]

One of the most helpful and informative videos on KZbin about pipe flaring troubleshooting!

[@rodgraff1782]

I used to always put a thin coat of blue leak lock on my flare faces, even if I had a perfect flare. This was before nylog. I never had a leaky flare joint. One of the most critical parts of making a good flare, is properly preparing the tubing. After cutting, the burr needs to be removed completely. I filed the end of the pipe so it was perfect, with absolutely no burr or crush, like a tubing cutter will leave. I used a ridged eccentric flare tool with a clutch. It is also good to ad a drop of oil behind the flare nut, so the nut dose t grab and twist the pipe when your tightening down. I also used the right long length heavy duty refrigerant flare nuts.

[@gyenisattila1069]

Nagyon részletes és kiváló oktató anyag, iskolai oktatáson nem hallunk ilyesmit ezzel a részletességgel.... nagy köszönet!

[@johnnycryo9638]

You nailed it this time ;This procedure was my last alternative ,finally resolve the Issue after Hundreds of Dollars on my Transfusion line problems.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Johnny!

[@woodway11]

Just watched you videos on flaring soft copper tubing. After cutting the tube, you used a pipe reaming tool to clean up the inside burr of the tube. I've tried that tool several times and as well as the other reaming tool with squiggly end , both leave small pieces of tubing inside the tube after use which must be tapped out of the tube prior to assembly. You talked about in your video! I experimented with the use of a pair of needle nose pliers (closed) to smooth out the inner edge of the cut, they seem to work significantly better and are just as quick too. In addition, the use the closed pliers doesn't leave copper shavings inside the tube. Twisting the closed needle nose pliers inside the tube easily burnishes off the burr (bends the little burr over) and leaves a clean inner tube as well. Try this out for yourself and see what you think !

[@johnpugh5747]

Used this method myself for years, never fails

[@qomco]

They just threw me in as an installer with 2 months hvac experience. My first job 3 heads with a branch box. Thank you for the training Im not getting on the job

[@cooperbybee4308]

Ya, I went through a similar "sink or swim" at my first hvac job. Apprenticeship doesn't mean what it used to. Thank God for KZbin mentors like this.

[@AdamHuishStreaming]

where are you at now @qomco ? did you make it?

[@qomco]

​@@AdamHuishStreaming​@AdamHuishStreaming yes I have continued in the trade. Currently working for a midsized commercial company doing service, vrf piping, installing controls, commissioning equipment etc. Looking to get more into the controls side in the next few years

[@Katana_00]

Good to know DIYers may be more competent than certified HVAC techs.

[@aking9756]

@@Katana_00they’re not. There’s a reason people need schooling.

[@richr5971]

Really appreciate you making this video, very professional and informative.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@acoustic4037]

I've been using the spin flare and spin swage for years. Perfect flares and perfect wages in less than 10 seconds every time once you get proficient at it. No need to do it any other way. No leaks no disappointments. However nylog is also a requirement, I like it better than plain oil. Even if you forget the nut, it is so simple to just cut it and make another flare it makes you smile that you can fix the mistake in seconds. Usually that happens because it's hot and been a long day.

[@soleilsoleil8287]

Hi can you please share what spin flare and swage sets brand is good hx

[@peterhodgkins6985]

The eccentric flare tool that the presenter likes is the ONLY way to go! We used those on industrial equipment with the 37.5 degree flare of heavy stainless tubing. Nothing will do a better job, and you'll very seldom find a split flare with that tool. Also, don't forget to set your torque wrench to its 'zero' setting after use to keep it in calibration. Great information Craig!!

[@DW-vl2wi]

Yeah right. Spin Tool takes 2 seconds to flare.

[@acservicetechchannel]

As long as the flare looks good in the end, we all have our own tools we prefer, thanks!

[@Thinking.Man.]

I have a mini split install next week. This is a great refresher for my flare joints. Thank you!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Best of luck!

[@JDT738126]

How did it go? Is your system leaking?

[@neomatrix2722]

What a great video I actually have installed my own propane fridge and stove and was successful in making only three flares however this video is really fine tuning the process and I have learned a tremendous amount thank you good sir for an excellent top-notch 11 out of 10 video

[@mikar3601]

Great video! Thanks for your tip about using lubricant oil on the flaring head. Also to add to the comments on what tool various folks prefer, I use the Hilmor orbital flare tool and it makes a perfect flare for me every single time.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Awesome, thanks Michael!

[@AngelsM213]

Here in Arizona we are starting to install and cut in a lot of mini splits anywhere from single systems to multi tap high end systems. Very good video

[@qomco]

New Mexico too..we cant keep up with the demand

[@mosfet500]

Thanks for the video. I've installed three of these now and I triple vacuum them. One thing different, I use as few connections as possible. I don't use the 1/4" shut off to the CPS gauge, I run it directly off the 5/16" with the valve removal tool. After my third evacuation I slightly open the removal connection and also open the valve just slightly on the mini to clear out the valve removal connection then I shut the valve removal connection and put the valve in (the CPS is still in the system). I then remove every thing and test the core for leakage after opening the mini valves all the way. I get the vacuum down to 120 this way.

[@P8qzxnxfP85xZ2H3wDRV]

Thank you very much for this video. I'm just here to learn about making a high quality seal with a copper pipe and this was very educational. I've spent forever on Google and it was really hard to find solid information. This type of connection is especially interesting, because it doesn't use a gasket, but it's not good for frequent disassembly. I guess the leak-rate is quite high too, because I'm not seeing this used in high-vacuum fittings.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Yeah i think manufacturers just use it because its a cheap fitting assembly but it needs to get torqued properly, thanks!

[@Thomas-wn7cl]

I like your mini split videos. Excellent

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Thomas!

[@mikar3601]

I recently had a 3/8" suction line on a mini split leak at the flare joint on the condenser and I couldn't figure out why it was leaking. My flare was perfect every time, reamed and flared with my orbital flare tool multiple times, but it kept leaking. I finally changed the nut for the one that came with the unit, instead of the one that came with the line set, and tightened it down: PROBLEM SOLVED. There is absolutely a science behind how those flare joint nuts are constructed and using the correct nut to help make the seal perfect.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Absolutely as well as the required foot pound torque value, thanks!

[@eliasloepp2356]

I'm on a job right now where we're installing 4 or more split units a week and this was a big problem for us. Once we realized that was the issue we started having a lot less problems with leaks. So yes, this is definitely the case in alot of situations. Use the flare nuts that come with the unit if you can.

[@UltraHydrophobiccoat]

Thank you for the video. Can you do a video on how to correctly charge a mini split? Although I have purchased your book but it will be nice to see you show us in the video. Thank you

[@acservicetechchannel]

The problem is that the manufacturers don't provide data for that on inverter type compressors and they want us to use the total weight method for charging. I do have a video on adding refrigerant based on line set length, thanks!

[@MrGarret1985]

Awesome video, great job. Greetings from Argentina

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thank you very much!

[@YTsux24-7]

That torque wrench set is a must have item at a decent price. They're necessary to tighten the electrical connections on steam humidifier tanks as well. Great lesson Craig!

[@patmatt975]

I have the electronic torque wrench that vibrates when the desired torque is set. I think the manual torque wrench would be better.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot Pat and Tom, yeah I prefer the manual torque wrench!

[@SlightReturn666]

no question that you should use a torque wrench. the system has to seal against hundreds of psi in heat pump mode, and the copper tubing is quite fragile. Don't just try to guess!!

[@robertbrennan9015]

I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos. Now, what is the sweet spot on for the 410 pressure, 120 psi?

[@acservicetechchannel]

look up the video we did, (acservicetech r-22 and r-410a operating pressures)

[@caillecaille]

what a great video, can't get any better way of describing it.

[@ionutscinteianu]

Nylog isn't available in Europe. Is there any replacement oil for applying on the flares before tightening?

[@charlieromeo7663]

Good work. Proper torque on the flare fittings is of major importance. I would add the torque wrenches made for this work are NOT designed for use in both directions. In the field techs can get crossed up and be forced to tighten a fitting from the backside of it i.e., standing behind the fitting where tightening the fitting now is in the CCW from their point of view. In this case the wrench must be used such that the MFR label is facing away from the operator. Intuitive to some, but not everyone. I have spoken with YellowJacket engineering about this and they indicated the instruction sheet would be revised to reflect this information.

[@throttlebottle5906]

there's nothing better when flaring to discover the nut laying off to the side instead of on the tubing, more so when it looks perfectly flared....

[@acservicetechchannel]

Ha ha yup for sure!

[@spartans2288622886]

Its like a right of passage for a Tech .. We all must sacrifice a perfect flare to the HVAC Gods..lol

[@resetcoder]

I really had fun installing my first mini split for myself, here in Europe, where we have 10mm pipes instead of 3/8", but I could buy nut only in 3/8", in every shop, which does not fit. I had to drill it to 10mm and pray to be a good fit. It is a dream for a beginner.

[@thermolux2267]

it's true ... the same sometimes happens with a heat shrink tube that you forget to put on perfectly soldered wires

[@throttlebottle5906]

@@thermolux2267 I can confirm that happens all too often, having done electrical and electronics since a kid. there's no way I can recount the times forgotten, LOL.

[@alandust2188]

What size torque wrench am I gonna need for the line-set compression fittings that have a 1/4" and 1/2" refrigerant lines? AND, Metric or SAE?

[@craigrobinson4161]

Another great video Craig. Went to check pressure in my mini split unit. When I hooked up gauge to service port I got a really low reading of only 25psi. without the unit running. When I turn the unit on, in cooling mode, line pressure pressure quickly decreased into the vacuum side of gauge. I turned unit off. Pressure quickly rose back up to 25psi and remained stable. Is there a Leak or a clog? or just really low on 410A?? Im leaning towards a clog. And how that would be troubleshooted. Thoughts? Thanks,The other Craig

[@RineboBohead]

I learn so many things after every one of your videos!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot for your comments! I appreciate them!

[@danialothman]

this video is a masterclass

[@rondail5675]

Very good how-to, tools, problems, do's&don't's

[@balokurd17]

9:42 even if it's downwards, you'll always have some small copper shavings stuck inside. That's why a nitrogen test is so important, not to mention it helps with h2o removal, but also dust.

[@markryan9364]

Those flare connections were always an issue...... great video !

[@acservicetechchannel]

Yeah, its crazy, thanks Mark!

[@klrmoto]

Why would you not want to use oil between the b-nut and the flare too? Would that help keep the b-nut from twisting the lineset tube?

[@jimthvac100]

I seen some instructions that came with pioneer mini splits that say not to put oil on before torqueing the flare nut. Because it may get the nut get to tight.

[@jeffreywhitlatch1409]

I always choose to eliminate fittings whenever possible. I know some people and warranties don't approve. But I don't want any problems ever. So I cut the fitting out and braise them together, there will never be a problem there. I always thought fittings were supposed to be outlawed. But they're not.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Ha ha yeah it is nice to braze them. Some manufacturers will still take them for warranty though, thanks!

[@taylorsutherland9447]

Agreed!

[@robd7365]

Excellent video as always

[@michaeljohnson1006]

I read something interesting regarding Torque Wrench's if you apply lube to the threads you can over torque the bolts a lot of car manufacturers give dry thread specks!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Absolutely, I never understood why someone would add lubricant onto a thread that you don't want to loosen over time. I would love to share that article with some techs if you have a link for it!

[@1slkss]

Depends on the application but many critical torque specs are actually measured with a lubricated surface. Very few are actually spec’d as “dry” and those will be clearly identified as such in any literature. Without lubrication you are measuring the resistance force not the actual clamping load. You need to refer to the manual for your application. In this particular instance a small bit of lube on the back side of the flare itself would have given a more acute clamping torque measurement. In reality most techs will just torque till it’s good n’ tight and call it a day.

[@artificialintelligence734]

I just rebuilt a Big Block Chevy and a Jeep engine. Both service manuals specified to oil threads before torquing.

[@beachbum4691]

Ticked and subscribed with the greatest respect, but really not my area. There really is a world of difference that separates "just doing the job", from doing the job knowing "what you're doing;" and why you're doing it that way". "Ouch", simple techniques that don't work; made wonderfully and invisibly sophisticated so that they actually do work........ :)

[@mosfet500]

Thanks for another great video, I've sure learned a lot from you. Why don't I see installers checking the high side on mini's only the 1/4" blue side?

[@osmith5086]

how many mini systems have you seen with a gauge tap on the high side? That's why.

[@mikeygee4564]

Great info and very helpful for my mini split install. Thank you

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@oby-1607]

Really well detailed instructions. Enjoyed it. Thanks.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rogersmith8593]

Excellent, informative instructional videos.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@charliebaucom1310]

Thanks Craig - can you identify a source for the good quality, heavy duty flare nuts? Lots of manufacturers out there but difficult to determine if they are good quality. Perhaps you should add it to your tool list. Thanks.

[@mematyi]

Hi! Great video and definitely a huge help for a beginner. I always use Nylog but I came across a problem. I could not figure out of your videos but isn't spinning the tube on the flare face a problem? When I torque down the nuts, the tubing tends to stick to the nut and twists compared to the standing flare seat. I tried to lube the back of the flared tubing, and the problem got better, but still intact.

[@johnvgig]

Does your book specifically mention how to pressure test a multi zone mini split? I’m unclear as to whether the zones are internally connected or totally independent.

[@Dan-hd3cs]

Manufacturer instructions

[@johnvgig]

@@Dan-hd3cs godd reply, but the manusl, Mr. Cool is useless.

[@jspinosa50]

What I do is swedge it and silver solder it, particularly if the connection is in the evaporator such as a Mitsubishi split unit. You'll never have to worry if there's a leak there.

[@abdalqadr1]

Greetings for you from Iraq 🤗

[@MJ-iy4fb]

Excellent video!!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thank you very much!

[@ronaldhoffeld814]

I have a new mini split system. I was going to just pump it down without doing a pressure test. Would passing a vacuum test imply leakless joints? Or does the flare joint operate differently under pressure.

[@Froggability]

Ronald Hoffeld. Yes and no. If your skilled there no need for a pressure test. Use torque wrench. Does a vac work in place of pressure test = "sort of". However a vac is effectively a test at negative 15 psi,. Not that effective. And 9 times out of 10 a rising vac is your gear, not a leak. Proper vac is 300psi + nitrogen

[@정구용-v8x]

If no-brazing fitting which can be used for connecting service valve is released, do you have a intention of purchasing them? how much is proper to purchase.

[@vhj5803]

Great video once again!!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Vincent!

[@ohm3142]

I got your book and it is very good!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Polar Berry!

[@petesingh292]

Thanks for a early reply and well explained

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot Pete!

[@tomkaraitiana6136]

Good one bro. Helpful information especially the flareing tools. Thank you

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thank you for watching!!

[@AviArjvlogs]

I have been in field from last 3 years, now I decide to get apprentice, sir, can you suggest a right course for my betterment, thank you

[@quantensprung3102]

Thanks to you, now i know to do it right. Thanks a lot. 👍👍🙂

[@brianreip411]

What is poe oil? Can you use nylock on the flaring tool to lube it while you make the flare?

[@SihAza]

Tricky to get the largest flare which the nut will still slip over. You have to learn how much the tubing protrudes from the flare tool, and insure it grabs so the tube doesn't slip back when forcing the cone. With cheap flare tools, best to replace the wing nut with a nut you can wrench tighten. First tighten the nut closest to the tube so the other nut has more leverage. If you form a bad flare, you can cut the tubing close by placing the flare-end in that slot on a tubing cutter rollers (its purpose). 45 deg SAE flares are for automotive, HVAC, and plumbing. 37 deg flares are used in aerospace and military.

[@abdalqadr1]

Thanks for your time

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks Abdalqadr!

[@patcupolo9274]

I worked on oil burner Long Island ny, did away with compression, went with only flares, always thought a/c techs always brazed their copper lines

[@acservicetechchannel]

Minisplits come with flared connections so even when we braze, there is at least some flares on the unit such as at the outdoor unit, thanks!

[@jspinosa50]

I always do where I can. It's a lifetime leakproof guarantee.

[@jackmuller3799]

Just had Mini Split systems put in and they are not performing - leaking refrigerant. This was very helpful . I can now tell the installer where to look. He seemed baffled.

[@LichaelMewis]

Get a better installer.

[@pebbIe5]

Can I use a tiny bit of PAG 46 oil to lubricate the flare when tightening for a heat hump R410A system?

[@vahagnmelikyan2906]

Can I flare it to compressor lines, or I have to braze the compressor connections?

[@kirill_gusev]

I have two questions: 1.your book mentioned method when flare nut is tightened and then loose and retighten again with added force. If installation manual shows 2 values like this: 13.0- 18.0 ft-lbs does it mean 13 is a first and then 18 ? - My line set is 1/4 and 3/8 pipes and I believe I used the same (lower) torque for both of them on indoor unit, so basically 3/8 in under-torqued. I already insulated connections and mounted the unit when I realized that. Is it OK to leave it as is or I'm setting myself for leak? Thanks a lot!

[@Silky_boi]

What are your thoughts on the SPIN Flaring drill bits? I've been using them for the past couple months. So far no call backs but only time will tell of its reliability. Thank you for your awesome videos.

[@acservicetechchannel]

I would like to do a video on them soon. I really prefer my eccentric flaring tool over them because of how nice the flare is when complete, thanks!

[@skippysvr4586]

I always cut that connection out and brazed on solid couplings. Have had multiple call backs on connection inside the wall leaking. Extreme source of problems.

[@usmcvet0313]

@@skippysvr4586 That makes a lot of sense.

[@robertlyman9789]

Do people use the flare,tight fittings that come with the unit?purple things?

[@WTC7]

Have you seen Steve Lav use the spin flaring bit to install mini splits? He doesn't do deburring with those bits.

[@kennyd7452]

You beat me to it, I was going to ask the same question. That tool seems to make good flares very quickly and easily.

[@acservicetechchannel]

I will be doing a comparison video soon using the spin vs the eccentric flaring tools soon, thanks!

[@williamskelton6751]

How about oil on the BACKSIDE of the flare to reduce fretting and get a truer compression of the joint.

[@togger2151]

What is your opinion of the different flare seals on the market?

[@jimbas777]

hi, is it okay if we put some 'thin rubber ring' in between the flared pipe and the connector when tightening the nut? would it effects when high-pressure applied? just wondering

[@miguelloza4454]

Great video what’s the part number to buy the flaring tool

[@acservicetechchannel]

I have the tool linked toward the top at www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech

[@InTheMannerOfLove]

What is POE oil? Are you referring to Polyol Ester Oil?

[@scoobtoober2975]

My used gauge set valve seats are contaminated with copper bits. Please vacuum or carefully swab the shavings out. Lint free swab are available somewhere.

[@jaredhanson9758]

Very helpful and thorough

[@jaimemendoza5739]

Very informative, Thank you.

[@SuperSpecialty]

Shouldn’t the lubricant also be applied to the back of the the flair where the nut will be contacting the flair?

[@scottbrown748]

Thanks for the video, learnt a lot from your videos. Once you release the refrigerant into the line and spray the joints and there's no bubbles, does that mean there is 100% no leaks?

[@magiccheeseball]

What about pre flared that came with the mimi split? I got a Pioneer with line set included

[@shemwayman1146]

VERY INFORMATIVE , THANK YOU

[@jlg8689]

Can ester automotive oil used in r134a be used in place of poe oil for this connection. I have to wait a couple of days to get the blue sealant and would like to use what i have if at all possible, thanks

[@boutroshalab2795]

Hi mate what do you think of blackmax flaring kit

[@Paxmax]

One feature is missing on all tube clamping devices; upon tightening it around a tube an automated voice should play "Is the nut on you clutz?" I'm torn on the "oil-on-flare-surface". I would rather have the flare bite and seal to the brass surface and use oil on nut side to make sure it doesn't grab and spin the tube. My reasoning is if you have movement on flare surface you risk smearing the copper, gouging it making an gas escape route. Conversly, if you have oil on flare surface you reduce the chance of smearing but you increase the chance of rotation. Either way I can't see much of a down side to lube on nut side unless you do tighten too hard, then you have the copper being easier squeezed and possibly thinning/cracking.

[@giavannivigliotti6174]

Lubricating the surface of the flare actually allows the flare to conform to the brass easier than otherwise. The lubrication allows the flare face to spin a bit. When it's "smearing" the surface of the copper is stretching, thus forming an inferior seal. You should be using a torque wrench anyway so it shouldn't be smearing much.

[@jrichbetancourt]

Very informative video thanks 👍🏼

[@SamuelBachorik-Mrtapo8-ApeX]

Hi what is the difference between nylog and leak lock ? Can I use leak lock same way ?

[@lfdab34]

Why not make a double flare? Would that be stronger?

[@bagelandapriusrv]

Interesting video! I just had a flare replaced due to leaking. Would it be fair to say that any issue with a flare is due to poor installation?

[@acservicetechchannel]

that is likely

[@davegeorge7094]

Brilliant, thank you!

[@sparks6666]

Freaking great video. Thanks.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad you liked it!

[@RobertKelley-q6z]

1/8' was too much for my Husky flare tool, the nut would not fit over it. Had to cut and re flare it with a 1/16', almost flush

[@proxybox]

Great Stuff! I followed your guides for pressure testing and I used a fieldpiece digital manifold gauge and held nitrogen pressure great for 24 hours. No leaks or bubbles with leak detector. However, when I vacuumed I can get down to 300 microns on my 3/8" line but once I valve it off with my Appion core remover tool it starts to rise. I'm so frustrated. I made meticulous flare joints with an eccentric tool and used Nylog on the cone, coated the front and back of the flare and torqued down with a digital wrench. I also checked the core remover to make sure it wasn't the cause of the leak. Any advice? Thanks.

[@eldoradoboy]

sorry this ios an old post but ill respond.. depending on how long the system was open or how humid it is even at 300 microns you can still be boiling off moisture which will cause your pressure to rise.. remember Vacuuming does 2 things.. it takes out the air but it also causes moisture that is liquid (sometimes in solution with oil) to boil off.. the lower the vacuum the more moisture you boil off.. but its a slow process.. this is much less likely with a new system that hasnt yet been charged with oil or where the refrigerant is still stored in the condensing unit.. but on a repair where the system was open for awhile or had been left in a zero charge state where its wicked a bunch of moisture it can take a LONG time to get vacuum to stabilize... your tools can also be a source of issue.. hard connections like brazes and flares dont care the direction of the pressure (unless you are flexing a joint just enough to cause a leak).. but soft seals like those in O-rings for gauge hoses.. nylon ball valves on hoses etc all are more designed for positive pressure than they are negative so its possible a gauge hose or such is sucking a little air because the O-ring is pressured in a different direction under vacuum.. I like to vacuum test with as little Toolage connected to the system as possible. i out much more credibility in the positive nitrogen test than I do in the vacuum test.. (I know that i will get flamed for that).. but the system is going to live its life under positive pressure (and if you live someplace where it gets cold enough that the refrigerant gets below 0 vapor pressure then its not gonna escape anyway even if a negative pressure test wasnt perfect... .. that said i like getting rid of as much moisture as possible..

[@gregrichard9192]

Great video. However a reamer or reaming tool is a tool used to enlarge a drilled hole to produce an accurate smooth finish. The tool you are using is a deburring tool.

[@popasodatastieable]

Will you have a digital version of your book?

[@acservicetechchannel]

Yes the ebook is already available at www.acservicetech.com/store thanks!

[@sajjadcheema622]

Thank you for a great video

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad you enjoyed it