Why a Condensate Trap is Needed on an Air Conditioner! Up Close View!

[@acservicetechchannel]

-My Paperback, E-Book, Workbook, Quick Reference Cards: www.acservicetech.com/store -E-Book: play.google.com/store and search "AC Service Tech" -My Paperback and Quick Cards: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech -Support the Channel: www.patreon.com/acservicetech -Tool List: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech -Facebook posts every other day! facebook.com/acservicetech -Our Articles: www.acservicetech.com/articles -Our Quizzes: www.acservicetech.com/quizzes Related Videos: HVAC Installation Basics for Condensate Safety Switches: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIvPZICGnrGqiNE Fast and Easy Clean Out of Condensate Lines on an Air Conditioner! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXLHXpWpobGMgKs Condensate Drain Traps & Lines Cleaned on AC and Gas Furnace! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nabJZId7iMdmjJI Condensate Pump Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Problems! kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2i6n4erf9BgmJo Checking the Charge Tools: Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq Digital Refrigerant Scale amzn.to/2b9oXYl Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh FieldpieceSMAN380V Digital Manifold Set - amzn.to/2yqzBX6 FieldpieceSMAN480V Digital Manifold Set - amzn.to/2ytvGZL Fieldpiece SDP2 Digital Psychrometer - amzn.to/2nniMVR Testo 549 - amzn.to/2X0jJVj Testo 550 - amzn.to/3bIQvhS Testo 557 - amzn.to/2ylgeyw Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ Electrical Diagnosis Tools: UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V Vacuum Tools: JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump - amzn.to/2nqbvo8 CPS 4 CFM Vacuum Pump - amzn.to/2DxgPwY 1/4" Appion Valve Core Removal Tool - amzn.to/2uYr8WL 5/16" Appion Valve Core Removal Tool - amzn.to/2JHmfbP Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose - amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose - amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" 3’ hose - amzn.to/2umtcod Appion 1/4" by 1/4" and 3/8” hose - amzn.to/2Zyxzx9 Uniweld 1/4" by 1/4" 2’ hose - amzn.to/2GFov1Y CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge - amzn.to/2v1nM3O JB Vacuum Pump Oil - amzn.to/2mGrlXy Flaring Tools: Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool - amzn.to/2OBxGlM Spin Flaring Bits 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4"- amzn.to/31BCs8Z Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool with Set Depth - amzn.to/2QIKsQH Yellow Jacket Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2NRR68Q Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn Nylog - amzn.to/2MLJcch Ridgid Tubing Cutter - amzn.to/2DnjjR1 Wolverine Tube Reamer - amzn.to/2QGLyMV Swaging Tools: Manual Copper Tube Swage/Expander- amzn.to/2WRPa1M Spin Swaging Bits 1/4" to 7/8" for the Drill- amzn.to/2YQwwqS Uniweld Hydraulic Swaging Tool- amzn.to/2MlrI8m Uniweld Swage and Flare Kit- amzn.to/2T55jyn Uniweld Hammer Swage kit- amzn.to/2CzWMMU Uniweld 3/4" Hammer Swage- amzn.to/2CzXsSs Uniweld 7/8" Hammer Swage- amzn.to/2Mja5WE Uniweld Multi-Size Hammer Swage- amzn.to/2T3Cx1b Brazing Tools: Air Acetylene Torch setup - amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods - amzn.to/2gVLyLc Ameriflame Oxy Acetylene Torch Setup #1 &#2 Tip - amzn.to/2SRm3JF 40cu B Tank to 10cu MC Tank Acetylene Tank Fitting - amzn.to/2GxZZPi Nitrogen Regulator - amzn.to/2bXdR5f Uniweld NitroVue Flow Regulator - amzn.to/2GnsaAo Uniweld Nitrogen Flow Meter - amzn.to/2brvoBg Stay Brite #8 Silver Bearing Solder and Flux - amzn.to/2XIDJsY Aluminum Braze Rods - amzn.to/2IGNMu Refrigerant Leak Detection Tool: Accutrak VPE Ultrasonic Leak Detector amzn.to/2nFYKVe Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal.

[@jollyharami816]

Good berthed sher thankyou gues ok

[@milotorres6894]

That covers everything ,nice share , practical demo on point.,, Clean out cap for vent.,👍💪🤔🙏🖖✌️

[@lionelearlen9931]

I've seen a lot of discussion on whether a positive pressure evaporator (like one on top of an upflow furnace) needs a trap or not. While it doesn't cause the drain issue like a negative pressure, it does eliminate air leakage. Please share your opinion on this. I am a HS HVAC teacher and I'd love to know your thoughts.

[@BobSmith-rg4rh]

Any reason it the pvc needs to be glued?

[@peterhodgkins6985]

No matter how many times this is explained verbally, the phenomenon of negative pressure is not usually well understood to most until they see it in real time. This is a terrific demonstration!

[@thejohnbeck]

I still don't get it. I see that it works but no clue why. Thanks for saying negative pressure so I know what to search for!

[@nikolaoslouvros3618]

@@thejohnbeck lol first its funny seeing such a recent comment to an older video, right in line to what I was thinking as well. But I found the answer. When the system is running and sealed, and the fan in the system is moving air, it is on the input side (in this setup). Meaning its a vacuum, or under negative pressure. The drain is like a straw, so while the fan is on, the drain is sucking in air. (I wrongly assumed in the video that "system running" was focusing more on the temperature of the evap coil since he focused on it). When the fan stops, there's no sucking, and the pressure inside that area and outside are equal so the water is free to move via gravity. The trap on the drain needs to be filled with water or it doesn't work, because the weight of the water is more heavy than the sucking vacuum of the blower motor in that small area, so air cannot come up inside, so the water can move under gravitational forces, without being pulled back into the pan. Real world example. You get a fresh frosty milkshake from wendy's and go to suck on the straw. It's too thick but you kinda try again, but as you give up, the negative pressure in the straw makes your spit backwash into the straw.

[@jonathanchang6253]

@@nikolaoslouvros3618 the spit explanation did it for me

[@KaiserXionTV]

I still don't get it =(

[@KaiserXionTV]

No ok. I get it. It's just sucking air in through the drain line. The P trap basically plugs it so it's harder for air to be sucked in that way.

[@Steven_Falcon]

My Carrier Infinity runs all day long here in FL and your video carefully explains why my pan holds water and I get the “stinky sock” smell. Thank you for the video.

[@edlauren9434]

I am HVAC contractor with ~10 years of experience. I think that this video is the best explanation why do you install that p-trap on the condensate line so far. :) Thank you!

[@glenm5034]

WHAT DO YOU CHARGE?

[@terryzak1742]

When we moved into our new house in North Florida about 8-years ago, we soon started to have filter failures from moisture. This was happening every 1-2 months, and at times the failed/wet filter media would get blown up into the underside of the coils. It was quite maddening. After considerable research, I found a similar video and installed the clear trap you've shown in your video. After that, no more issues. I'm a bit confused why something so critical can be missed by the Building Inspector, and the private Home Inspector that I contracted to check the house out before we purchased it. You've done the best job explaining why the trap is needed, that I've ever seen. Great work!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot Terry!

[@brucebartman36]

Ha ha ha. Inspectors. That's a good one. They nitpick little things that don't mean a bit of difference, but anything important they forgot to mention in inspector school. Here's 10 pages of bullcrap that needs to be fixed. Give me my check.

[@Hoyerlift101]

Again, well done! Getting this point across to installers that are trying to “just get the job done “is critical. No excuses for not having a trap installed.

[@luislujan8715]

Thank you !!!! I felt dumb when I first saw a video of someone really cocky because he did understand it. I wasnt dumber i just had to take the time to educate myself. I hope when I go to school my teachers are as good as you.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks so much Luis and make sure to check out the video I just published on does a minisplit need a condensate trap. I get into more detail there, thanks!

[@bbrown5887]

Brilliant. I noticed last year when I happenned to look inside my furnace that the condensor pan was completely full and not draining. I could tell there was negative pressure so I openenned the filter area and sure enough it drained immediately. The system was installed by the previous homeonwer so I have no idea of the experience of the originall installer but they clearly didn’t understand this issue. Great explanation and video.

[@jmc6940]

Im always amazed at what i dont know! Im not in the hvac industry but i appreciate the science involved in your field. Your a great instructor!

[@Jesus-bs5fl]

I have been doing HVAC 8 years and never had such a good example of condensate traps.

[@thomasianross]

Literally could not understand why my furnace was filling up with water until I watched this video. Thank you so much you saved me an expensive service call.

[@dr2944]

Thank you very much for clueing me in. That solved the problem of condensate build up in the bottom of my A/C unit. I cut a hole in the piping for easy trap cleaning; I did not realize it receives an internal negative air pressure. I thought it only trapped debris. HAGO; Thanks again!

[@borshardsd]

And I thought traps were for catching wedding bands only. You guy's are a class act. Ty for sharing. Definitely looking into your E book.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Awesome, thanks!!

[@UNITED2009100]

During home inspections I would talk about the vacuum effect when there is no trap. If the unit is in the garage or close to where there might b some chemicals, fumes can be sucked up into the air flow going to the home and if that happens because there is no trap at the condensate line no one will know where the Oder is coming from. So the trap here is rather important!

[@MAGAMAN]

Wouldn't the Trap as he has it here, be more likely to suck in the chemical smells? It is sucking in air right where the AC unit is.

[@Achabab]

I like this man, every time see his video learn new things. Thank you so much for all the videos. You are good teacher :)

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad to help Latif!

[@milotorres6894]

Next level cool deal.👍✌️🙏

[@Jachyyaty]

This is the best video I found to fix the problem I have with my air handle thank you so much

[@ntwadumela_]

Very informative. As a plumber this broadens my knowledge. Thanks

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@natm1320]

Wow! This is what is wrong with my AC! The person who installed my AC kept saying he had no idea what was wrong with my system and HE INSTALLED it. Thanks! Hopefully my hubby can fix it.

[@biblebloopers946]

Good video. And this ONLY applies when the blower motor is on the supply side of the evaporator causing a negative pressure which sucks air into the condensate pan from the drain. When the blower motor is on the return side of the evap coil, you will have a positive pressure pushing air out of the drain hole and you won't need a p-trap for this

[@Vlican]

great point! i was left wondering why my system continues to perform fine without a trap, but you've answered it!

[@povoljan13]

You still need it, that's air loss going out of the condensate line.

[@i8ntnuts]

Same here. Works fine. I lose very little air with my design

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

I was wondering why there is a trap on my system. You learn new stuff every day

[@Helpfulsuggestions]

This was the best visual example I’ve ever seen thank you so much.

[@YSPDJapan]

Thank you for posting. My apartment AC unit was leajing water all over the drip pan,and the EZ trap was bone dry. After watching your video, I opened the trap and filled the curve with water - hopefully this fixes the issue.

[@stephaniejenkins8221]

I just had my unit serviced. Guy at ACE told me I needed a trap (retired HVAC) guy who serviced unit did not install one. I have an identically appearing unit as the one pictured. Anyways guy called days later and now he said he “forgot to install” and is coming back to place one. Just trying to understand the process and this video was awesome! Thanks

[@DOLRED]

Never realized while the air flowing through the evap is on its way to the cold outlets, it will pull air back through the drain tubing---perfectly logical. The back pull would be untreated air as well. We had our system changed in 2015 and they installed a trap. I thought it was silly. Now I know!!! Thanks for making the video.

[@davidlopan6649]

Great demonstration. But this only happens with the coil before the blower. When the coil is after the blower air comes out of the drain pipe and you need a trap to stop the air from escaping. I learned a lot from your channel thanks for the tips!

[@liyuanshi2377]

Great point. This something missed in the video

[@zachwilson7864]

how would a trap stop the air from escaping if there wasn't water in it first

[@NativeBowhunter1965]

I will be buying your book, workbook and charts very soon. I’m a maintenance man in an apartment complex and I’m finding your videos invaluable.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thank you very much! We do try to provide information, methods, and procedures in layman's terms so that they are easily understandable, thanks!

[@MrChipBryant]

Very good. Thank you for your service to the industry!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot Chip!

[@gabriel3527able]

I don't like ptrap dust build up in it

[@randolphrod9679]

thank you, one of the best explanation. very professional

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sujithsurendran7672]

@@acservicetechchannel could you tell me why water in the drain tray or pan starts flowing out when the pvc pipe system with water filled trap is attached?

[@thaitichi]

@@sujithsurendran7672 Yeah, how exactly does the trap with water counteract the negative pressure of the flowing air?

[@edwinjewell5359]

Your a dynamic instructor in all facets of AC Thank You.

[@acservicetechchannel]

I appreciate that!

[@potentialhvac6074]

I've serviced a package unit witch had a zone board installed (left) inside the blower cabint wich burned out twice .I was ther on the second call, Noticed it was a little damp and the zone board had moister on it, and that they had short 4" pvc pipe off the drain pan. I added a p-trap, installed new zone board called back a month later to make sure clients system was working. Problem solved . Many techs even some hvac business iv talked to think these ptraps are unnecessary but I beg to differ .NICE DEMO CRAIG!

[@todossantosmusic9070]

Great visual for evaporators on the negative pressure side of the blower. You should explain that not all are on the negative side. An explanation of where to put the vent would also be helpful. In my neck of the woods most residential evaps are on the positive side of the blower.

[@TanTan-ch3vq]

You are right

[@ryanrega3899]

My exact thought. The plus side of adding a trap on a push coil is you don’t lose some of the efficiency of air being leaked out of the drain, but it’s not critical to have one as it is on a pull coil.

[@David-mo2zq]

Keep in mind this is for an air handler and not a coil on top of a furnace. The coil on top of the furnace has positive pressure so you dont need a trap.

[@timzalusky]

That makes sense why my unit doesn't have a condensate trap

[@cgeorge6786]

Trap will keep cool air from escaping though right?

[@christopherhaak9824]

The Delta p is small, very little air escapes. You can test this just by running the fan or furnace and very little air comes out of the drain hole, even less if you have a drain hose on it.

[@woodstream6137]

Best ever demonstration! I don't think mine is linked into a trap but it I think the broken humidifier and furnace are linked into the line too. Furnace is under ac unit and has some sort of black box cleanout

[@Honestandtruth007]

WOW 😮👍😅 I'm glad i Stumbled on this video 👍 Thank you Teacher Craig. That's Why I Always follow his videos teachings ❤️

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thank you for watching!

[@christian81846]

Very happy you made this one

[@acservicetechchannel]

Hope you enjoyed it!

[@bcespedes80]

You are amazing, I lear a lot from you !! Keep it up the good teaching!! Best!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thank you! Will do!

[@seaneyo]

thanks!!! I cleaned out a gross gelatinous mold glob from my trap but didn't realize that I needed to repopulate the trap with fresh water.

[@foolishcreations2259]

Ahhh makes sense. The blower creates a Venturi effect on the trap drawing air in when not primed. Thanks.

[@shanefrank3281]

This is a great demonstration. But isn't negative pressure only a thing on draw-through units (aka negative pressure system)? If it is a blow-through or positive pressure system, isn't there positive pressure where the coils are?

[@RichMusco]

Great video! There should also be a vent pipe on the left (output) side of the trap you show in the beginning of the video. I remove the red cap on the trap and put the tube there.

[@MJ-iy4fb]

Occasionally I see condensate tubing left unglued, I suspect to allow for easy cleaning. What are you thoughts on not gluing a couple strategically selected fittings?

[@martinlavoie4002]

Got you’re book last year and it’s nice to have. I didn’t not know about the trap for the drain on the coil. Good stiff

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot Martin!

[@stevefoster258]

Never too old to learn! Thanks

[@acservicetechchannel]

You got that right!

[@stevenmoomey2115]

Some Carrier AC’s have a built in trap in the Drain Pan, so you need to look and/or check the units literature. It you can’t see directly thru the opening to the drain pan, or from inside the drain pan to the pipe. Then check the literature.

[@workingshlub8861]

good idea to put a union or slip compression fitting near the between trap and the unit ...easier to clean out the slime and crud ..

[@diesfastest6667]

Unions in condensate lines aren’t necessary,a simple tee with a cap or a modern float switch has what you need to disassemble without any problems to clean………or best thing I’ve found after over 20years of doing it is a simple shop vac,connect it outside and it will suck all the bs out and then put the cleaning tabs in the evaporator coil pan and your g2g……..or your nitrogen tank with a simple Freon line hose will blow everything out from the inside out.

[@ryand2767]

Simple, but excellent demonstration!!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad you liked it!

[@bobbyb9718]

Thanks for sharing. Something this smart and inexpensive seems like it should be a standard.

[@jochute]

I often see one of the p trap risers uncapped. In your video you have both of them capped. Can you please elaborate. Thank you for great videos.

[@dencioz55555]

Thank you for the explanantion. I’m glad I put the ez trap on my new AC last month.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Absolutely, nice cleanouts!

[@jollyharami816]

Thankyou gues

[@hediervarelamedina987]

Excellent video, one question is it essential to leave a PVC T with ventilation after the water trap, because in the video after the trap I don't see anything similar. I appreciate your kindness. May God bless you and thank you for sharing the knowledge.

[@TheSawyer10702]

Wondered why the condensation was not drawing whilst on! This is a great channel to learn! I have learned so much since I found this channel .thanks .

[@theairconditioningguy]

I love how clear your explanations are. Great channel!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot The Air Conditioning Guy!

[@ab-nt9hb]

Thanks for such grt explaination, it's very rare that we can see a demo, which you have provided. Requesting if you'll can also provide the maths related to p trap..or thump rule... thanking you.

[@acservicetechchannel]

A B, the higher the static pressure in the system, the more need for a trap there is. You can't go wrong with a deep U trap but in most cases a p-trap will suffice. The biggest thing is making sure that a PM includes the cleaning of the trap or that the building owner is aware to clean the trap one to two times a year, thanks!

[@ab-nt9hb]

@@acservicetechchannel thanks alot

[@abdorakeebnaji1527]

Very Valuable Information that I was looking for I bought your AC book And I learned A lot, I can't wait Tell I see your book on Furnaces trouble shooting Specially on high efficiencies. On the market.

[@greaseman93]

thanks for that demo! I recently encountered this at work.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad I could help!

[@redshot_8897]

Great explanation, very informative. Great video. Thanks for making.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@MaMa-qh4dy]

Excellent explanation, as always. Thank you Craig. Stay safe!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks a lot Ma ma!

[@jamalbadhafari]

Thanks

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad to help Jamal!

[@YTsux24-7]

Have you ever seen a blocked drain line affect a TXV Craig? I was on a call once where the evap coil kept frosting over until the abnormally long, mostly flat, drain line was blown clear. The very moment the drain cleared the frosting stopped.

[@acservicetechchannel]

Frosting would only occur if the sat temp of the vapor line was below 32 degrees. Even if the bulb was submerged in the water, the temp of the water would not restrict the flow of the refrigerant into the evap coil. Very odd. I feel like I am missing some other part or detail, odd, thanks Tom!

[@JayCraziii]

The frosting happens because your A/C is constantly pulling moisture out of the air and returning it to that evaporator pan and if the water can’t drain the moisture doesn’t collect in the evaporator pan and then causes it to freeze because all excess moisture is not transferring

[@josephwallis6402]

In this application the air is being pulled through the evap coil rather than being pushed. Does the same apply when the air is pushed over the coil rather than pulled?

[@NotMrSpielberg]

Does all A/C require a trap? My A/C never had one. My vertical A/C unit flow sequence is 1) Filter on bottom, 2) Blower, 3) Furnace, 4) Drain tube/pan/evap coils.

[@nvlvdave]

Love the visual demo - AWESOME!

[@abdorakeebnaji1527]

Can you please make some Videos about Wireless thermostats And Smart Venting Dampers when we do a multi zones thermostats...thank you

[@beautybyhammerllc]

Well done !!! This video is a great industry tool

[@stoneyj1a1]

What is the other plug for? I have water dripping out of the plug but very little coming out of the water line tubing. No trap either.

[@kongtaing5206]

You are very GOOD, thank you! Very well explain, great teacher; you're truly know this stuff, wow.

[@csealand]

Best video on ac

[@acservicetechchannel]

Wow, thanks

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

1:55 Not sure what contraption or devices you are using but my system drains while its running, i pulled that pipe off the hole and it drained just fine, there was NO SUCTION back into that hole at all ever.

[@jeffpeterson1331]

Depends on which side of the blower the drain is on.

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

@@jeffpeterson1331 is the fan not always above the condenser coil ?

[@jeffpeterson1331]

@@ACommenterOnKZbin no. A furnace with a case coil as an example. The blower is before the evap which puts the drain on the pressure side. You wouldn't "need" a trap but its a good idea as it prevents air that you paid to condition from being blown outside. But the water will drain just fine without it.

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

The evaporator on my system is after the fan so no p-trap is necessary. But it does drain into the sanitary sewer so there is a p-trap where the tube drains into the sanitary sewer.

[@Phyrexius69]

isnt the trap only required when the evap coil is on the negative side?

[@acservicetechchannel]

Yes but a trap would stop low temp air from leaving the system and the building to go negative pressure while the system is running by blowing the low temp air outside. Also a trap will stop any gases in the area from making its way into the system especially if the drain is hooked to the septic line, thanks!

[@Blitzkrieg.u812]

NEVER EVER attach hard condensate pipes to a septic vent(can create disease or sickness) use a condensate pump with the 3/8 poly tube in the septic vent... always install a trap in the positive or negative side of the ac... (basic ac 101)

[@whitewigglesworth]

The trap is not "required" on a positive pressure system. Any system where the blower is pushing air across the evaporator is a positive pressure system. If the evaporator is being pulled on by the blower, thats where your negative pressure situation comes in to play. The drawbacks of having a trap on a positive pressure system outweigh its benefits as the amount of cold air loss through a 3\4" pipe are insignificant and the traps will eventually plug up and cause an overflow/shutdown scenario. Should you be concerned about a positive pressure system allowing odors from your drain, there is a fundamental flaw there... The unit is pushing air out of the drain pipe. If you ever do have a smell being picked up and drawn into the ductwork when the blower is off you should consult a plumber about why that drain is so gross to begin with.

[@whiteowlone]

@@whitewigglesworth this is what happens on my system with the trap. The drain plugs every year. I now blow it out before the season. I was wondering if I should eliminate it. My evaporator is on the positive side. I thought the trap was there because they ran the drain to the septic pump cover in the basement to stop the gases. I rerouted the drain and installed an ejector pump but left the trap. I hate that it plugs every year.

[@whitewigglesworth]

@@whiteowlone Take it out and straight pipe it. PVC is cheap and youll be happier.

[@SeanBaker]

Your videos are always so good.

[@acservicetechchannel]

I appreciate that!

[@joedixon8804]

Definitely every air handler needs a trap, but in some cases ac and furnace don't require. But it's good practice to just use one

[@michaellalanae7228]

It helps keep out bugs also add for some vacuum relief it needs to be cleaned per season

[@errorerror1337]

Awesome video and appreciate the demonstration! Is there any residential case when a condensate trap may not be needed?

[@mptr1783]

so if youre not sure if you have a positive or negative pressure system, installing a p-trap would work on either one, correct? Positive would just blow the water out while running, while a negative needs the p-trap to allow water to drain while running. Do you recommend a vent AFTER the p-trap in both situations? And a T connection b4 the p-trap to allow for cleaning in the future?

[@ncvman]

I couldn’t see the top of the torso. Do you cap it or not?

[@ChinoGomez0524]

Very good video, i watched other video and i couldn't understand. Thos very well explained. 👏🏼👏🏼

[@jp1419]

If you were to added a condensate pump where would you run the discharge hose? To the p trap? After the p trap?

[@lordjaashin]

great video, Craig. i have a question regarding how you measure subcooling on ductless split ac? they don't have service valve that allows you to measure liquid line pressure. can you please make a video on how to measure subcooling on ductless split ac with r410a refrigerant? much thanks for your hard work and dedication making these videos.

[@anonymously1235]

You cant charge a mini split with your sub cooling or superheat. You must weigh it in.

[@lordjaashin]

@@anonymously1235 thats it? i mean its that easy?

[@--harry_]

I was told to never uses gauges on them unless trouble shooting a problem because of the min loss of refrigerant from the gauges can add up over time. We were told to check temp difference in and out of coils for checkups.

[@lordjaashin]

@@--harry_ what range of temperature difference between evaporator and condenser coil was considered healthy?

[@acservicetechchannel]

Harry and lordjaashin, I wrote a whole article with lots of pictures on charging mini-splits and troubleshooting. This article can be found at www.acservicetech.com/articles just pan down the page and you will see it, thanks!

[@Charles-in3zt]

At 1:47 of the video where you show it up close where it exits the pan I have a question. How did you disconnect it from the unit to show that view? Are you able to unscrew it from the unit with what looks like a collar or screw on cap. I thought with the PVC pipe glued together you wouldn't be able to just unscrew it. I am just not familiar with this but I need to access it from the unit side to see if I can clean out pluggage. When the unit was installed they didn't put any kind of a "T" or cleanout on it and I've heard you don't want to put any kind of pressure that goes toward the unit. I believe the pluggage is just a few inches downstream of where the condensate drain line comes out of the unit. The problem is it comes out and immediately down with a 90 degree elbow then across and inch then elbows up then another 90 across and out. It is all elbows with just a tiny bit of pipe between the next elbow. It comes out, down across, up, and out. Wish I could show a picture.

[@tntheatingandairllc]

Thanks again Craig for another great and knowledgeable video 👍👍

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad to help!

[@jefft2022]

Great video! I just bought a house with the upflow system with the filter at the bottom of the air handler like the one in the video. The question I have is I also have a return filter in the kitchen, do I need to replace both filters monthly or just the return filter in the kitchen? The filter at the bottom of the air handler wasn't there when I look after unclogging the trap.

[@Bobherry]

I am in HVACR school and I was just asking my teacher this same question the other day in class

[@acservicetechchannel]

Awesome, thanks HVAC with Greg!

[@DanBurgaud]

clear concise explanation... ps... not only blocks air, but also insects

[@MsFishingdog]

Great video. If you put the trap.on the outside were it exits the wall. Does the trap work the same or is it best to put it right there at airhandler.

[@eddman32]

works the same

[@throttlebottle5906]

in cold climates outdoor trap is freeze and break risk.

[@acservicetechchannel]

We usually put them inside near the air handler but as long as the trap is somewhere in the line, the condensate should flow, but always check your jobs before leaving, thanks!

[@other91solution50]

Additional information Another tips and ideas Thanks for sharing dude.🤔

[@acservicetechchannel]

Thanks other 91 solution!

[@christopherborner1139]

Love the video, but one clarification. You only need a trap if the coil is on the negative pressure side of the fan. In the North, most of what we install are a gas furnace with the evaporator coil on top of the furnace. No trap is needed because the force of the blower is positive.

[@JayCraziii]

I’ve always puts traps because all the debris that will eventually get clogged will get clogged there and not in the wall or somewhere that is harder to get and then when it clogs a pipe cleaner and bleach is all you need 👏

[@andersjohansson5271]

This can happen on positive pressure units aswell, altough probably not as common. If the drainpan outlet is connected with a hose that is way thinner then the drainpan outlet pipe diameter, the velocity of the air passning makes drainage impossible, at least as long as fanspeed is high.

[@hvacguy11]

I didn’t know you had a workbook! I’m buying that!

[@acservicetechchannel]

Absolutely! We put 8 months of work into fine tuning those questions and they are the very ones I would like every tech to know pertaining to the book, thanks!

[@markfernandes2396]

i use a tablespoon of bleach once a month when I use my ac, but my unit is smaller 2t. but this is good info, good job.

[@azimmey]

Nice video. I just had a new ac system put in last summer and the condensate pump stopped pumping and went under the house to find the trap plugged up after only 1 year. I also found the goof balls didn’t seal the bottom of my supply plenum so 10 to 15 Percent of the cold air and hot air was going into my crawlspace. Very pissed off number one but also why would the trap be stopped up only after probably 10 or 11 months of total running time

[@vincentvincent2658]

i have a 4 tube water system a/c in the ceiling of the rooms where i work. the guy who installed them didnt use traps just copper line from the pan going 90 degree angles until it reached the drain. will say cutting off the 5 inches of condensate drain line copper and adding a pvc j or p trap adapter? it has no secondary line btw.

[@pawpawstew]

I've got a condensate drain going from my downstairs AC unit, behind my hot water heater, and draining directly into the tub of my laundry sink four feet away. No trap. Ive never had any issues and it's been running for three years in a high humidity area.

[@ShyRage1]

My question was, is the trap even needed really? I mean, once the unit is of it drains.

[@sman5877]

My coil is is under positive pressure from the furnace air flow . The airflow that comes out the drain at the coil i would say is significant to warrant a trap but by the time the air flow gets to the outside drain point ( about 30 feet away ) it is less air flow than a human breath. So i did not use a trap . That been 21 years with no stopped up drain pipe.

[@smile.behappy.andlive2063]

Thank you this detailed explanation 💎

[@LRBennettInc]

Just a great explanation thank you very much

[@acservicetechchannel]

Glad it was helpful!

[@jeffb6276]

It didnt make sense until i said "but why?" I understand the siphon aspect but i dont quite get where the vacuum comes from. Is there no other open orfice for air to replace the water displacement or is the water pan in an area where the air is pulling upward and the hole for the p trap, when off, is becoming a vent for the massive air displacement to take up more volume from? Both? Neither? Ty

[@Misled1]

What about dry vs wet climate? In AZ it is a dry heat, lol. My system has a fan rignt on top, but no trap, just an L, then a sharp downhill run on the roof. During the Monsoon season lots of water comes out and gurgling can be heard at the pipe exit. During the dry season, nothing comes out, logically because there is no moisture to take out of the air. I have seen no p-trap problems for 14 years, so it seems AZ climate is an exception to this rule? Thank you.

[@russellbarnes7732]

Okay so first time start up there are many instances where the traps are not prefilled but they don't overflow. Every residential and commercial product doesn't get pre-filled for the summer startup. I would assume at startup and an empty trap and the unit never shut off it would in fact overflow. Since it eventually cycles off whatever's in the pan winds up flowing into the trap that's how it gets filled.

[@matheusgianetti3522]

Always an excellent explanation!! Thank you!!

[@Gyrobobb]

Is this a draw-through system? Does the type of condensate trap shown work for a blow-through system as well?