Actually flawed, yet still desirable: LEGO Crocodile Locomotive in review! 10277

[@JANGBRiCKS]

See my easy *fixes* for derailing issues & unsightly cab gaps at kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYSuop-tjauHrrc In stock at MSRP/RRP as of the time of this upload at amzn.to/2ZEH8v8 (Affiliate link -- if you make a purchase I may get a tiny commission to help keep the channels going) Yes a *momentary visual glitch exists* near the beginning which everyone sees; the glitch is not there in my source project file and cannot be fixed now. As always, all comments are moderated per the policy linked in the video description. Spam like "first" is removed before anyone sees it to keep the focus on real discussion!

[@stupstickman]

ok

[@wakspacific6928]

Are you going to make the loco shorter so it could go around bends?

[@seantreacy6190]

Try and shorten the length of the wheel position as it will be more stable as when you look at where it is positioned on the tracks it has an awkward time on getting to stay there

[@ujo5682]

Ok

[@awes0men0b0dy9]

That’s to bad about the wheel base I was going so ask for this for Christmas (I’m 12) but now if it does not go on the track no I wont ask for it :(. Jang what do u think about the new technic Bell Boeing MV 22 Osprey? I thought is was pretty cool :) have a good day Jang

[@dankerthanclanker]

@JANGBRiCKS at 9:29 the term you were looking for is "Flange". Though we'll often refer to them as "blind wheels". Just looking at the set and the ball connectors I was a little concerned with the build and it's ability to stay on the rails, as often lack of weight can be an issue with model train derailments.

[@DZstudios.]

Jang small rant is really funny!

[@gdlpe05]

Good morning Jang

[@noob.168]

I really respect your accurate explanation regarding the cab controls and dials.

[@TamiyaPhilippW]

11:00 you may can add a spring (from a ballpoint) on each front end to push down the front wheels at the track.

[@Bercyable]

Well, through all your reviews...the cadence and timbre of your voice seems to inspire one with a sense of absolute credulity. The honest impressions and suggestions to alleviate or remedy certain possible negatives are something that are no found on most other reviews. Decided to get two of these before retirement. Thanks for all you reviews.

[@Nikioko]

12:01: Oh look, it still has the old DB logo with the Antiqua letters. I had the old 7720 and 7710 as well as the 7745. My favourite was the 7740 but that was EoL by that time so I didn't have it.

[@Panzer-535]

3:35 that's not a just a "fake wheel", it's on the real locomotive. this is why it's called a 6/8. 8 wheels, but 6 touch the rails. the "fake wheel" is the actual powered axle on the real locomotive. the rods transfers power from the driving axle to the wheels on tails.

[@JANGBRiCKS]

That's completely incorrect. The real train is 1-C-C-1. All 12 of its large wheels are flanged, driven and very much in contact with the rails.

[@christophernearing3774]

Really appreciate the Emerald Night comparison! Thanks

[@TinkeringJohn]

At 7:08, there are 12 of those pieces used, not 7. There are 3 on each of the 4 corners of the center section of the locomotive. The set comes with 13 of them.

[@deadtrim9500]

Oh wow this is the first I’ve ever seen your face in, *years!* ....Like I mean back sense 2012! Your voice will always be a memory in my head

[@SolihullTrainspotter]

I’ve come back to this channel from about a 1 year break and it’s such a pleasure t sour use to see jangbricks face in the videos now from just having his hands in view!

[@jeffflank2193]

Thanks Jang Happy J 4 🤠

[@weekendrailroader]

Railway wheels that built without the lip/flange are often referred to as "blind" wheels. Many full size steam locomotives had blind drive wheels to help them take curves more easily.

[@koolbrix]

Great to hear your thoughts JANG! Thanks for sharing!

[@danielhg1487]

Any train design with a single axle after an articulation presents issues, the 8 axle locomotives I made: dd40x and dd35 work perfectly with 2 axles-articulation-2 axles in a bogie, but if you make the bogie with single axle-articulation-2 axles-articulation-1 axle presents issues, with this locomotive you should pair the axles that are closer, small-big, big-big, big big, big-small and all of them with all wheels flanged, you should get 4 big flanged wheels more and make a great arrengment, not easy but thats where you can show off a design.

[@Benjamin0119]

Jang ended up just putting removing the rubber bands and that fixed it? Do you have any pictures or videos of those engines? I saw the MOCs on your channel and they look pretty awesome.

[@diegoheredia9106]

Please make a video on how to fix the gap

[@trevordevis1971]

Finally got my hands on this. Fixed the gap issue, and also fixed what was a major problem for me - the drivers from the electric motors (the discs between the wheels of the drive units) should turn at wheel speed, not be stationary. Have yet to run it, hopefully my track is flat enough to avoid the derailing issues Jang experienced.

[@kiko_meeko]

My wife and I just finished building this set and we too had an extra 28192 reddish-brown slope piece. Its such a large extra piece i had to revisit your video to make sure it was meant to be an extra. Perhaps lego is including more than indicated in the instructions. I won't complain.

[@NCXDesigns]

the proper term for a wheel that doesn't "touch" is flangeless. Lionel has done this with their trains for years and the first time we saw this on a Lego train was the Emerald Night. It allows for tighter turns, the wheel without the flange does touch the rails but it doesn't hug the rails like the wheels with the flange does. as far as the derailments, there isn't enough weight on the lead truck.

[@astralflick]

This looks very cool, great review jang

[@shawnd-v1660]

Pantographs are the poles on the train and catenary are the wires above the train

[@mickeli7155]

It is kinda funny, how I grow up as an Märklin boy, and now as Im nearing 60, im in to Lego train set. The boy inside you, never goes away.

[@febbbm2002]

Gnaj would love this set!

[@michaelminton1224]

The overhead is a pantagraph while the overhead wires is a catenary line.

[@gloriaborger5760]

Very cool. Thank you jang!

[@thevaultdweller4709]

Was waiting for this review before I purchased it! Certainly will pick it up now

[@benjaminhaugen5759]

Great review bought this Tuesday and still haven’t built it but great job

[@BrokenIET]

5:03 Most likely, throttle/gears on the left, and a handbrake on the right.

[@chillpeter9067]

Great video

[@dynamosaurusimperious6341]

Awesome,design.

[@jaihmate4236]

Thanks for such an honest review mate. Please, please make a video about modifying this and fixing the problems you have and put it on your city Chanel, thanks mate

[@arduous1914]

Happy Fourth of July I love trains and LEGO so your videos are the perfect combination!

[@museumtallerlij5571]

I have the Emerald Night, and I really didn't expect the crocodile to be bigger than that steam engine!

[@Snuifduif198]

11:24 sadly its 109,99 in the Netherlands

[@luisemoralesfalcon4716]

Happy 4th Jang and thanks for the review.

[@klotz__]

Maybe you can try to add weight to the noses. That could help keeping them on the rails.

[@Dgjserffft]

Aww I was really looking forward to putting it on my track

[@MayoHosko]

With all it’s problems like the oversized looking pantographs I love this locomotive. All for more LEGO trains and I can’t wait for the next cargo train

[@ajvanmarle]

I've seen the actual locomotive in real life in Switzerland. It's an absolute beast. A pity this model doesn't work better.

[@jacobstudios9567]

I’m totally planning to get this!

[@LukeLovesTrains-Mr.RailYard]

Cool electric locomotive. one of the most famous in the world.

[@skiiipawbs]

Put the blind wheel at the end of each truck

[@alexls1923]

I think I know of the reason why this locomotive derails in turns, it’s the ball joints that connect the cab to the two ends of the engine. From my experience (although rather limited) with making miniature trains for the roller coaster tracks, using one ball joint (or one joint in general) to connect the cars together always ends in derailment in the turns no matter the length of the wheelbase. You need two joints to prevent this like they do with real trains.

[@alexls1923]

I made my miniature trains have two studs between the wheels on each car with the smallest train wheels and I have two cars that connect to the locomotive since having one car kept derailing and the second car added weight to prevent it from derailing. I have another train that is much larger with actual trucks on the locomotive and car and that’s the train that I have two ball joints that connect them to prevent derailment. It’s hard to describe it in a comment but it works.

[@victorchico7768]

So are we just gonna ignore this guys some what calming voice?

[@mikezuiderduin7602]

Nope. I think he sounds like Bob Ross! He is so calmly talking i'm waiting to 'give this train a friend'.

[@angusmarshall9909]

The inner part of a train wheel is called a flange

[@garrisonkunst3645]

Jang goes into train dad mode, "i'm not mad, just disappointed...." Engineer cap wilts visibly

[@davidlewis3969]

I'm sure you'll sort it Jang will be interesting to see what Alex Nunes makes of it

[@alexlisz4008]

8:20 scares me solo much what happens if it accidentally falls?? I would cry so hardd

[@NirateGoel]

The inside piece of the wheel is called the flange.

[@johnvocatura]

Perhaps a simple swap of the ball joint to a system that does not have vertical movement will help.

[@wilsonkelman986]

THE SONG IS BACK

[@4.99dollarchickenstripbask7]

If LEGO is now basing their trains off of real ones now, that's great! I'd hope to see a UP 4000-Class locomotive or a Santa Fe F-7 unit!

[@coleslegosandreviews4064]

Like all of the other LEGO trains I have played with, I wonder if I could drift it

[@klaesvellinga2931]

I have this set!!

[@awes0men0b0dy9]

Powered up is cool but power functions was somewhat better I feel cus I liked just flipping a switch or turning a dial now all of the stuff is mobile which is cool but I liked it more basic

[@lbricks7631]

I am learning so much about trains today. Thanks Jang!

[@WizardOfOss]

I think the first one (4551) wasn't so much inspired by the Swiss Crocodile, but mostly based on the German DRG E93/E94 or the related Austrian ÖBB 1020. Even though those were also commonly named Crocodile, they had nothing in common with the Swiss one. About this new one, I'd say they should had made it just for display, so they could have easily have fixed most of the flaws. I still intend to buy it though, and hope there will be more sets like this.

[@DeVirumEtMachina]

I just bought this. I'm building it right now :]

[@DeVirumEtMachina]

I like it. I like it a lot.

[@dmvideos7913]

This is the reason why I always wait for your review ! What in the world about the curves

[@therealblade116]

I remember watching your rc videos. Hopefully you found a place to use them

[@pepeaugustopinochet6184]

The first crocodile locomotive was based in the german class E94 / austrian class 1020

[@tijnvdlinden]

It is actually the second ce6/8 , the first locomotive in your video was based on the E94, a German locomotive.

[@zerohsu2552]

Hope you're ok! And fine a way to solve the problem

[@k-874]

Maybe it just needs weight around the very front and back so the wheels don't derail as much

[@flyingbeaver57]

The brown finish is very prototypical on many of the first group of Krokodils, built by Oerlikon between 1919 and 1929. They also run in a dark green livery, depending on the region and the build series (A, B, C, etc.). The design is over 100 years old (102 as of 2021), and quite a few were built. They've stood up well, and with regular maintenance have kept running on the Gotthard sub, and probably elsewhere. They're not doing daily mainline service (officially retired in 1985), but still can be seen doing yard switching some days and they're a favorite locomotive on railfan excursion trains. I've also seen them running as motive power behind snow blowers or snow plows. The raised plate on the top of each end is similar to the top side on the prototype - there's a great big cooling fan underneath that sounds like a jet engine spooling up.

[@TinkeringJohn]

I set up a square track on carpet and had no issues with derailing. I used the non-conductive track.

[@shameless2992]

Thanks on the vid man love trains and legos emeerald night is my favorite and i actually ended up buy 2 after people jacked the price up and i love them. Ik it doesnt stay on the tracks but its just so pretty and only 100 bucks so im going to buy it anyway

[@Scotts_Blocks]

I have wider radius turns cant wait to see how this handles them

[@roderos]

Just bought the city train with 50 euro discount just to motorize this. I love it

[@jimmyross2388]

Would still like to see this in your city! As like something in the background

[@Angrist17]

I bet it'd track better with ballast blocks or other weights near the noses.

[@inkdreams5113]

I want this set to moc into a small garratt.

[@mdctt9021]

I think this one is going to have a Emerald Night reputation in the future.

[@Jackmarmar]

Is that a modern Conductor Charlie?

[@MrBoulanger87]

I also got an extra brown slope piece.

[@BulletNoseBetty]

Thank you for your honesty. It IS a great looking locomotive, but perhaps Lego will get the message that a "Version 2.0" is needed. On the other hand, they've definitely given their fans a good challenge.

[@TrainMaster04]

I know you have already made a video of fixing the derailing problem, but something you could do is maybe taking the blind drivers and swap them with the center unit drivers. This should fix the binding problem on curves because the locomotive should be able to move over the track with better ease. Also, the addition of two flanged wheels at both ends should improve the ability to be guided into the curves. Finally, the possible reason why it derails could be that the pilot trucks do not have enough weight on them to where it jumps off the track and causing the whole thing to derail. To get around that you could create a cavity, inside the fronts, and put small weights in it. Theoretically, that should allow the pilot trucks should be forced down and have a harder time jumping up from the track defects.

[@adamf2402]

Looks mad :)

[@Its_peachypuppp]

Surprisingly it’s only $99.99 +free shipping on amazon right now

[@cogs8465]

Actually those gaps between the main engine section and the front and rear trains is accurate to the real locomotive.

[@JANGBRiCKS]

No not at all. Look again. The real thing you wouldn't even know was articulated if you hadn't been told in advance or didn't examine its construction very carefully. There's *zero* gap as viewed from the side as the nose sections actually extend into the cab unit through sleeves.

[@evaspartan2282]

It seems like the ball joints in the noses could be allowing them to roll around turns due to a limit in weight, perhaps try adding a Lego Ballast piece into the noses (or under the noses if there's enough room) and see if the added weight allows noses to pitch properly?

[@cristiancadillacforlini7345]

Molto bello questo locomotore , mi piacciono molto i modelli

[@matsv201]

I saw this guy doing a moc ir crocodile. Just having two emerald night under carages. Worked great, because..... well emerald night work greate. It also replicates how crocodile actually works. Granted, he needed two medium motors to power all wheels

[@karlosbricks2413]

That spare part you mention isn't accidental. All sets have that as an extra piece.

[@GreatBrickLab]

Lego did a video With the designer on this set too. 👁

[@yellowcarpet265]

f in the chat for jangs hat

[@Vilhelm22]

Just to say if you check Bricklink for the powered up parts, under ‘parts’ rather than ‘sets’, you can save over 50% of the cost - in GBP you pay £25 instead of £70 for motor and hub together.

[@davejack82]

Still think it’ll look good in your train yard. It’s a shame about the derailment issues, I’m no train expert so wouldn’t know where to begin to fix it but as a stationary train think it looks great and can’t wait to get it

[@HelloThere72550]

Lego needs to make a train line base on real historical locomotives.

[@bustedsiderods8544]

If you want you could just take off the noses and add a coupler the center piece and model a boxcab shunter

[@yakacm]

Flange, lol, I know I'm a kid, 55 and it still makes me laugh. Flange is the part of the train wheel that Jang was looking for, or more precisely flange means, " first created the effect by slowing down tape by putting his finger on the part of the tape spool called the flange, I also assume as they were big kids too they probably liked the word for it's slang connotations too.

[@chimeracreations4532]

Dude you looked so sad when it kept derailing but I really like the review and the enthusiasm! Did you end up fixing it?

[@casperhansen826]

Sad that you could not make it work in your layout. I will buy that set anyway, I know I would regret it if I didn't. Great review, I could almost see the tears in your eyes.

[@dillpicklelegolocomotives8472]

The Wheels just jam for me

[@liamgossard526]

Is it just me or is Jang the bob ross of legos?

[@yerboichips6138]

Great review as always, Jang!

[@MrMewMan]

I got mine a few days ago and really like it. It adds quite a bit to my layout and has quite a bit of power using the Powered Up Large Technic Motor. I haven't had any derailment issues, but my layout is not as advanced as his.

[@PetersPieces]

When JANG is upset, should we call it Jangry?

[@laughingbulbasaur3291]

He seemed to be QUITE jangry with this set.

[@xenoponyyyyyy]

Hahahahaha yes

[@ujo5682]

Ok

[@roshasensi2220]

Maybe

[@_henryd_]

Yes! Lol