Adam Ondra vs Tomoa Narasaki | IFSC Meiringen 2019 Bouldering

IFSC Meiringen 2019 Boulder problems comparison. Adam Ondra vs Tomoa Narasaki.
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Title: Tonic
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[@thibaud1330]

Tomoa : dynos everything Adam : statics the dynos

[@stefans4562]

Tamoa has such a nice flow to his climbing. Usually when noone does a boulder I bet on him. He just does things differently.

[@coreyyong374]

adam got so happy when he saw the hand jam

[@RM-xr8lq]

1:30 can really see how height affects the moves (170/5'7" vs 186/6'1")

[@dojanglesclimb]

Tomoa climbs like a cat. Ondra climbs like an alien. 👽 👾

[@chrismiddleton398]

Excellent! Great way to view, in fact, I've been looking for just such. Subscribed!

[@DeFausti]

Nice video, great editing! I like Tomoa's smoothness, really slick

[@solehinkomando4266]

tomoa is dynamic style. its like ninja jumping & flying around. adam is static style. slowly progress every step and surely real techniques used for real mountain climb. of course you cannot jump like ninja in real outdoor climbing.

[@desputnikcommander]

even more impressive that Adam get's the dynamics as well

[@jamesneeson6785]

And Tomoa generally looks strong on slabs and other technical problems too. He’s also done the ‘jumping around like a ninja’ thing fairly successfully outdoors iirc Also worth noting that Adam is like 6 inches taller than Tomoa, which accounts for some of the difference in style on its own

[@21nGG]

Tomoa flashed a V14 outdoors jumping like a ninja so

[@chickenflair7977]

@@21nGG Adam flashed 9b+ and he 8b more than 2 grades lower

[@nathanielhansen7281]

8B+, but regardless that's not how that works

[@camjcasey]

Adam knew to use the crack on the last problem where Tomoa just went for the dyno to the volume. It pays to climb outside.

[@twariik8550]

Keif why are you so upset xD I mean adam ondra is climbing more often outside than tomoa ^_^ like it has nothing to do with the climbing habits/skills of cameron casey... btw Tomoa has a very unique style of climbing ^^ love it

[@Heyoutub]

Tomoa knew you had to handjam the crack. This technique just never appears in bouldering tournaments. And you don't want to hurt yourself trying it out desperately without the practice in it. Honestly, adding this technique without weighing that it is a free win for Ondra was a bit weird.

[@philippzimmerer1280]

@@Heyoutub that's an interesting interpretation. From what I saw after that world cup, pretty much everyone agreed that it's a legitimate technique and can come up in any competition at any time. The fact that it rarely does is more of a bias against jams, than setting it once in lord knows how long is "giving Ondra the win". Basically other climbers that focus more on competition haven't been training jams because they rarely have to do them, but maybe it's something they should still be capable of?

[@Mylada]

Climbing outside rarely involves cracks, but Ondra is such a complete climber that ofc he has done cracks outside

[@philippzimmerer1280]

@@Mylada that depends a lot on where and what kind of rock you climb...

[@grqv1ty]

Petition for an amine or manga based on this sport, narasaki could be the lead

[@Homo_neanderthal]

Amine

[@young-yo1mx]

great video!

[@GodmyX]

Awesome, thanks

[@2WheelsGood.01]

There is no comparison. Two totally different body types climbing in different ways that suits them. Static is not better than dynamic and vice versa. Its whatever suits the climber.

[@jeksewnoleeray1020]

That is the point of the comparison

[@bizmonkey007]

Tamoa is incredibly athletic, but Ondra just seems so much more skilled, precise, and efficient.

[@noamoz3968]

But efficiency is not necessary in bouldering... That's why Adam better in lead but not in bouldering

[@chickenflair7977]

@@noamoz3968 *in Parkour bouldering is Adam worse, in old schol way better

[@johnnguyen5681]

I'm not really sure about the efficient part, after tomoa is getting there faster and expending less energy overall.

[@davidbousi7845]

@@johnnguyen5681 he's not using less energy at all, that's why he can't do lead as good as Adam does. (among other reasons) his moves are high energy expenditure and more legs down, which is way harder on your stamina. He's more explosive and a better dynamic climber tho.

[@PV75445]

Depends on what you call skilled. Tomoa is much better in bouldering, Adam barely ever gets to finals these days. Precise? Tomoa is much better at slab climbing as well, but Adam is more composed on the lead wall. In terms of efficiency Id say the way Tomoa is doing it is beneficial to him since he has more power but less endurance. This helps with his climbing style - climbing boulders quickly rather than wasting stamina. On the other hand Ondra has good endurance so he just statics things - works for him for the most part. Its also his outdoor experience making him choose safer moves

[@spacejackson1612]

Adam Kneebar Ondra again😂😂

[@unknownunknown7878]

Tomoa is best in bouldering without a word

[@eSKAone-]

💟

[@dukeengine1339]

Adam Ondra tutta la vita

[@Tomwithnonumbers]

Ondra could static a waterfall. Insane technique

[@moak-787]

Tomoa is more impressive in his movement but Ondra is good too

[@desputnikcommander]

good too 😂😂😂 you are funny!

[@ArinaThomsen]

Both are amazing, but my God, it is so good to be tall!

[@auroravuitton90]

That's what I always say to my friends who are all at least half a foot taller than me 😅

[@ExtergeoDesigns]

There's a very good reason there's not that many climbers that are really tall, it can completely mess you up on harder boulders that force more strenuous positions.

[@SeaBear161]

Most pro climbers are actually average height to shorter than average.

[@bizmonkey007]

It certainly helps on reachy vertical routes

[@vojtechhadascok4081]

When you are tall it have some advantage but also disadvantage. Its up to trail.

[@franta2142]

Na děckych prolézačkách zdánlivě lepší Japonci ale zlato nosí Adam.

[@wolfgangi]

Honestly the Japanese dude is working with so much disadvantage and still beat Adam

[@prova5468]

Ondra is a bum .