Induction Heating of Seized Bolts

5kW TOCCOtron AC induction heating power source with light weight hand held transformer used to apply fast focused flameless electromagnetic heat to seized head studs, thus greatly reducing the amount of torque required to remove them. Heating the stud causes it to elongate because its diameter is constrained by the cold engine block. The elongation of the stud reduces its diameter breaking corrosive bonds. Additional heat is applied to the outside of the engine block in the threaded area to expand the threaded area further separating the corrosive bonds. This technology is also ideal for shrink fitting of bearings and gears, removing pressed in valve seats, brazing/soldering of fluid lines and electrical connectors as well as curing and removing of coatings and sealants.

[@TralfazConstruction]

The hardest rust-frozen bolt or nut to remove will _always_ be the most inconveniently located. Think about it.

[@RuinedPrelude]

You my friend are a wise man... The algorithm brought me to you

[@patriciomunoz2830]

Facts

[@MotorClassics]

In addition to the description it works because of the difference in contraction rates after heating caused by the corrosion acting like an insulator for heat penetrating the housing...that difference cracks the corrosive bond.

[@daltonsequipment4419]

Yeah I would never spot heat a block to the point of glowing.

[@bradbeining3341]

Dalton’s Equipment neither would I. Don't care what they say .

[@ralphsgunchannel3978]

It’s not his he don’t care

[@FatNFurious]

Maybe he just wanted the bolt and the block is going for scrap...

[@patriciomunoz2830]

Probably just for demo purposes

[@johnlormin9086]

Yes, the purpose of getting it glowing is to show how fast and hot this smaller system can heat these areas. Heating it to glow is for demonstration purposes. It is also very controllable and turning off the heat is instantaneous.

[@thatoldbob7956]

Before taking off heated nuts I clean the thread in front of the nut because the nut still could ruin the thread on the way down Very good tool Bob

[@trillrifaxegrindor4411]

nice but irrelevant,these studs will be pitched into the trash once they cool

[@Alex-us2vw]

They removed a stud, so cleaning threads for a nut is irrelevant.

[@fuzzy19111]

I can tell me and this tool would be great friends.

[@vstrom9586]

I have never seen this done like that-- a great idea

[@joandar1]

Great tool! I must admit though I will have to wait until I win the Lottery before I can afford the $15,000 US to buy one. I will just have to battle away with the Oxy for now. John, Australia. PS It will be closer to 20K by the time it gets here and the Govt has its bit!!

[@erik61801]

you can make something like that using premium components for maybe 1.5-2k

[@TralfazConstruction]

@@erik61801 In my place of employment, circa 1985-1992, we used opposing-field, wide aperture, liquid-cooled induction heaters in a bilaminate extrusion process line. After exiting the ultrasonic washer/dryer the roll formed strip would pass through an inline glue station before heading into the induction heater. The metal temperature would rise from ambient temperature to 400° instantly. Were there any mishaps, for example the strip galling or binding in the PVC extrusion die, the metal would 'crack-up' in the induction heater and there'd be a fire. We had CO2 extinguishers on hand in that event. It was incumbent on the operators (2) or troubleshooter to hit the panic button to stop the process in its tracks.

[@MattL.-KE0SAW]

Going to try this exact process to remove galvanicly corroded toyota engine mount bolt!

[@NoferTrunions]

Was that a stud with a nut or a bolt with stud coming out of the top of the bolt head? IF it was a stud, would you remove the head and then use the heater on the stud close to the block deck? - or still heat the block?

[@thewilddinkus8026]

I bought a small $1 submersion heater and im hoping I can use it like this

[@mriguy3202]

no it will not. the coil kinda looks the same but it's completely different. you need a dedicated induction heater

[@patriciomunoz2830]

This is kinda the same but way more powerful

[@loopie007]

Not sure that all that heating will not change the hardness of the bolt or engine block. P.S. Always pull with a wrench, don't push. Your knuckles will thank you.

[@chucktaylor9713]

Idiot

[@frothywalrus]

That was amazing.

[@suprigitar4133]

Amazing tools

[@andrewgibson1991]

So satisfying

[@miltonhernandez5893]

One question that coil that is being used can heat what’s in side of it and also flat surfaces?

[@adammorrison75]

yes. it actually is more intense in the center ID of the inductor. We can also design and build custom inductors to heat almost any geometry. We can actually 3D print copper inductors/coils.

[@adammorrison75]

correct.

[@YoungQDezzy]

I have 96 maxima that's doing this and I'm getting the water pump fix but they can't get to it do to this. Would this work for me?

[@jimvogiatzis1384]

cool but he is using a small drive like 3/8 --i would use 1/2 drive to take it out-but great tool

[@adammorrison75]

Thanks Jim, We actually used a short 3/8" drive socket wrench to further demonstrate the great reduction in required torque to remove a seized bolt.

[@trillrifaxegrindor4411]

and you would also break the stud off, very annoying and ineffective.

[@jimvogiatzis1384]

yes good answer adam

[@TralfazConstruction]

@@adammorrison75 I understand that and it illustrates your point. I would prefer the beefier/longer half-inch drive ratchet which, for me, provides better and more metered control. The ratchet which you are using almost disappears in your hand. It's just a preference to me.

[@rosewhite---]

I don't think the explanation above is correct as you say the stud only elongates which reduces its diameter. how can it elongate when it is locked solidly in a circular wedge? I think the loosening occurs because the heating increases the diameter of the bolt and crushes the corrosion to release it?

[@adammorrison75]

The bolt attempts to grow radially, but it can't because it is constrained by the cooler surrounding material, which does not expand. The only way the bolt can move is axially, which causes it to temporarily stretch. When it cools, the diameter is ever so slightly smaller than the original.

[@hampuslytz5393]

@@adammorrison75 I actually never heard of this before, very interesting! Does that mean that you could heat and cool bolts to a lesser degree than the temps in this video, bu repeat tje process several times to get the same effect? (Slightly shrinking stud diameter)

[@johnpatrickmatthewsmusic]

I'm not buying the explanation, the heat itself is breaking the corrosive bond not the expansion of the nut itself. Rust is an oxide whether its aluminum or iron, when you heat either one to a certain temperature it weakens the rust. This is caused by the removal of the oxygen when temps get high enough but iron oxide weakens when heat is applied at 150 - 200C. Going to the point where it glows is unnecessary. Plus you heat it up then apply a bit of paraffin and it will wick into the threads very easily.

[@marks6663]

@@adammorrison75 If the bolt is expanding because of the heat, it can get longer without having to shrink in diameter. It would only shrink in diameter if you stretched it while it was cool. What is releasing the bolt is the expansion at the microscopic level which is breaking corrosion bonds.

[@griffon3275]

smart guy not only has the proper tool but using a short handle ratchet that he cannot possibly generate enough torque to snap a bolt off with.. too many times I see a guy with 1/2 drive socket and a reducer and 1 inch breaker bar with a 10 foot cheater pipe on it to remove stubborn bolts instead of working smart and using heat ..

[@lobsturf7797]

What with a popular mechanic telling them to! I'm not naming names..xD

[@jimmylight4866]

I have busted more than one nut with mah 10' cheetah pipe! Iffin you know whata I mean Verne.

[@casekocsk]

How do you know when it's already reached 650C?

[@adammorrison75]

Due to our 100 years of experience heating metals, most of our process engineers can determine the steel/iron temperature simply by looking at the color. Testing has also been conducted in which the heated components have been instrumented with thermocouples to measure and record the temperatures during the heating process.

[@erik61801]

touch it.

[@stevesimone1104]

Don't forget to mill that head flat again since you just warped it.

[@vstrom9586]

Mr. negative

[@darylbabz5451]

Awesome!

[@723lion]

omg he used his bare hand

[@Scotty_K]

You will warp the head if you carry on doing that

[@Elaba_]

This can warp the block and head.

[@GetMoreMellow]

It's good for removing hemorrhoids.

[@immrnoidall]

does anyone here remember the times we had to actually go down to a library to find out how to fix things or find out about new tools like this?

[@chrisdidomizio4958]

I used to go to the public library and order books(they didn't have much). The ones I couldn't get, my mom would get them from the city (Toronto). Learning took so much time based on how you interpreted it and you couldn't get the pages dirty. Stilll read in the operations/parts/service manual on the heavy equipment and I used Microfiche when I worked on aircraft(2008). Still love to read-I even read all the comments.

[@immrnoidall]

i have a chiltons book for every vehicle i had back then . look up "fix brakes", and would say something super basic like, "replace old parts with new ones",and have a cartoon picture. lol

[@brandonruhl4525]

Looked everywhere and somehow i cannot find this thing or where to purchase it. guess i’m using the good old torch

[@adammorrison75]

I can assist in quoting and selling you a system. You can also visit www.ajaxtocco.com to request a quote.

[@saulmarroquin4064]

Asi pues siiii diria el tornillo😆😆

[@lanhgia8975]

Wowww

[@markocynamon5921]

A torch works just as well and I don't like getting the block red hot.... It might weaken the steel perhaps ?

[@jasonfujioka8766]

I bet if that engine ever ceases it will be right there where he heated it. That was way too much heat. Metal gets weak with heat.

[@johnlormin9086]

The purpose of getting it glowing is merely for demonstration purposes to show how fast and hot this smaller system can heat these areas. This system is also very controllable and turning off the heat is instantaneous.

[@joebender3662]

How much current does it draw?

[@adammorrison75]

The induction heater used in the video is an Ajax TOCCO Magnethermic 5kW TOCCOtron AC, It is powered from a 230V, 400V or 460V 3-phase source. It draws 10 amps from a 460V 3-phase input at full rated output. It is a very powerful and efficient machine.

[@GetMoreMellow]

@@adammorrison75 The street lighting suddenly goes weak

[@eddiekulp1241]

Induction heat treating is the same just larger

[@sham1234567891]

Hi! Where can I buy this unit and how much is it? Thanks.

[@mriguy3202]

@51HankySpanky its only 5000 watts, and he only used it for a minute, so virtually nothing

[@truthkeeperfilms]

Meh, good way to warp and/or crack the block from heating it.

[@jimjackson4256]

So what is the use of heating the bolt and the block?

[@chucktaylor9713]

You must be stupid

[@nihonkokusai]

tool for sale?

[@gachuramosesmuturi4535]

For repairing a broken plastic tank

[@vamul1]

I bet billy mays would sell a thousand of these.

[@kauerodrigues7038]

Nossa muito bom

[@dcswings]

i wish i watched this video before i broke the bolt on my lower control arm

[@j0wt0ng]

@@Years-mv6wi how do you heat things up with bolt extractor?🤔

[@j0wt0ng]

@@Years-mv6wi wow, you disproved your own comment. I guess you got smarter in those 3 months (after you posted comment)

[@j0wt0ng]

@@Years-mv6wi by the way, bolt extractor is used for broken or rounded bolts. Those in video are only stuck, so bolt extractor would be last thing to use here..

[@erikcamacho575]

Wow

[@nicholaslandolina]

Wont this effect tje structural integrity

[@adammorrison75]

No. The temperature used is well below the metallurgical transformation temperatures of the metals being heated. However we would recommend replacing the head bolts with new after heating and removing them.

[@adammorrison75]

@Zeksteve correct, but the heat is necessary to break the corrosive bonds allowing the old head stud to be removed without breaking it and thus requiring are more costly and time consuming repair.

[@Marek19766]

easy, but you have professional tools :)

[@davidgruen7423]

There is a thing called breaker bar.

[@adammorrison75]

aptly named as they break bolts in half. Ha!

[@никники-о3ц]

Даэто просто охуенно! Мощность просто калосальна!

[@db2loud]

it might be cheaper to use then a torch but if you're good with the torch you should never need that especially after already being invested with a torch

[@Simomotard33]

I think you cam easily damage the head surface heating it so much

[@bluecar786]

Simone Cassino you're going to machine the block and head surface anyways! Geez you just don't think before making a stupid comment! I just cant stand how dumb that was! I need a walk and maybe a drink after that comment!

[@Elaba_]

@@bluecar786 Why would you resurface the head or block when it's still flat? Engines get opened because all of reasons.

[@OldSkoolF]

Nice... Wish it didn't cost 10k.

[@MrMalzers]

what if the block is aluminum?

[@adammorrison75]

Works the same. Induction will heat any kind of metal. It prefers to heat magnetic materials such as iron or steel. If we were to be heating to remove a head stud from an aluminum block, we would not heat the side of the block. We would just heat the head of the stud longer and allow the heat to conduct down the length of the stud. Aluminum expands at almost 2x the rate of steel, so the heat we put into the steel would also cause the aluminum to expand around it, which would also aid in releasing the stud.

[@donalexey]

Isn't it dangerous to heat block to red hot? Could it produce cracks?

[@BruceBusby]

Alexey Gerasimov yes, very dangerous to spot heat a cast iron or aluminum block. Induction heating the bold alone will definitely the job, differintal heating and cooling will break the bond on the bolt/nut/stud without heating the cast part.

[@adammorrison75]

Great question! Contrary to popular belief, induction heating can heat any electrically conductive material, including aluminum, copper, gold, silver, etc... The material does not have to be magnetic in order to be heated by induction. The process only takes longer (2-5X as long) when heating none magnetic materials such as aluminum. For this application heating of the engine block is not necessary, even for the cast iron block. It was just demonstrated to speed up the process. It is possible to get the same results by heating only the head bolt and allowing time for the heat to conduct all the way down the length of the bolt.

[@Chevyfan-tl2kw]

I got a broken glowplug i wonder if this would help

[@eabeyd6238]

please give me price

[@adammorrison75]

A system as shown in the video has a manufacturers suggested retail price (MSRP) of $15,000 USD (Exworks USA)

[@ryeckley7267]

Kewl

[@NooRAli-yu2oz]

Plz share tool link

[@навигатор54]

Сколько стоит девайс?

[@j0wt0ng]

What?

[@TheWhiteShadow2012]

На горячую нельзя снимать!!!

[@eabeyd6238]

please i need one heat give me price

[@GetMoreMellow]

It costs one engine block

[@davef.566]

That there fancy induck thingy e magig looks like my bar be qu fire starter thingy .the kid from home alone used same thingy to fry Joe pesshie's hand PS don't drink the cool aid or the yellow snow

[@darkshadowsx5949]

(comment with a bunch of random nonsense. ) hurkadurr

[@VictorRamirez-ou2xw]

Im not buying this Video

[@hampuslytz5393]

How so? It's simple physics?

[@speed7966]

so fake

[@whatyoumeanthirsty6132]

Use a real wrench...

[@rcnelson]

This is yuge!