Adam Ondra #53: Spray Wall - An Essential Part Of Training

[@jwest8330]

A big shoutout to the directors/editors of this video here! I think the way you made it possible to actually understand the boulders by highlighting them 1. with the color and 2. with the circles was genius! I've seen many videos where watching people climb on these walls is just boring because you don't get the feel for that boulder. Really cool!

[@maximedelmas]

Can't agree more ! :)

[@BenHawkins18]

Agreed, wonderful editing

[@zcxzcx321]

Yea these edits were seriously well done. Simple but so damn effective

[@nikki_parsons]

it was excellent editing

[@AB-fh9zh]

Yes. Adam's passion and the spot on editing make these videos an absolute joy to watch.

[@3stooges0]

4:14 Future crusher enters bottom left

[@kevin.fischer]

Completely agree on the spray wall. Best and most fun way to train for climbing. And most gyms don't have them...

[@MPHshoots]

It’s so frustrating. I wish my gym would set one up

[@Sn1per9CZE]

@@MPHshoots TBH, spray walls can only cover a part of the climber spectrum (mostly 7A - 8C climbers), which usually isn't really beginner/intermediate-friendly.

[@MateiloverMateilover]

@fI1cker Because he isn't a beginner?

[@S___________D]

@fI1cker He's the best climber in the world and the first one to ever climb 5.15d (9C). They say there's no stupid questions, well, yours it is.

[@S___________D]

@fI1cker He's been climbing since he was 3yo, so, for 27 years sheesh.

[@bobtheslayer313]

That was some great editing highlighting the holds on the spray wall. Thank you for that.

[@ollie-d]

My gym lost its spray wall for a bit when they added it to the rotation, but now it's back to its torturous 60 degree glory

[@spennyb123]

I can't believe I've watched 53 of these. It is the only thing on KZbin that I have post notifications on for and religiously watch every week. Adam is such an extraordinary human and it is inspiring to watch his grit and commitment.

[@AdamOndra]

Thanks for that! We appreciate that! 👍(AOTeam)

[@kingc3409]

The guy at the front 0:14 represents the fans of Adam when he suddenly starts screaming xD

[@ankhseram7228]

Ahah 😉

[@vojtechslaby950]

YOU think? he is actually a good lad and very strong - not just an any fan...

[@scytaletleilax]

He was not ready 🤣🤣🤣

[@MrThidious]

I love this Ondra series

[@trigeektk]

The animations to show each problem are awesome!

[@ma-cg2vj]

2:41 lmao

[@definitelynotclickbait8283]

:'DDD

[@Cellkist]

waaaaah

[@vt2788]

I heard a sheep-sort of sound :D mee-eh

[@JaysEpiphany]

Lol

[@xfluto4806]

Thank you Adam so much for these videos

[@franskmand1995]

loved the part where you show the route, and the circle disappear after you get to the holds. perfect !!!

[@michelechernega1782]

The graphics you added make all the difference, thank you! Makes it easy to follow along, as well as make us feel as if we almost could try to climb route ourselves, ha.

[@ejl74]

I love watching this while I climb on my homewall. It gives me so many cool ideas for new movement.

[@frankheiser2775]

Favourite video in the series so far! super cool with the "augmented reality" boulder beta on the wall. Keep it up

[@thedukeminecraft]

The editing is so well done. Showcasing the problems and highlighting the holds so its super clear! I love it! Thank you very much to the editors for the amazing work and Adam for the expert climbing!

[@michaelhoughton9926]

I really appreciate the use of the little circles it was a very elegant, unobtrusive and intuitive way to keep us from getting lost in the sea of holds.

[@paulwilliam6180]

Started climbing in 2002 with a 45 spray wall. Best indoor style. Creative, fun, and very social. I love how you’re advocating for it Adam!

[@altcineva4188]

Thanks for sharing your amazing training tips and your vision. These “for free” series are unique and very inspirational.

[@LukeRockCimber]

Every time I reset my home wall I watch this! Such a timeless episode!

[@LFSJack]

Impressive how strong Rishat is! 5:55

[@thiagowaldhelm]

Oooh this is probably my favourite indoor bouldering video so far. Perfect editing with highlighting the holds for each boulder problem. Awesome! 🍻🍻

[@letterZach]

So glad he is training with Rishat, a speed specialist ! I hope Rishat gains all the experience he needs to crush at the Olympics!! 🤩

[@plastikboyz364]

Thank you for this, now I can use this as another piece of evidence why my home gym should add a spray wall lmao. Also awesome editing I really liked how easy it made each boulder easy to follow

[@weekendbikingwarrior360]

like a cellar in Sheffield from 1993, Noice... one of the few training concepts we got right first time!

[@RingoStarr_]

2:40 Adam the baby

[@JL-pc2eh]

I like it that they dont cut out his screams :)

[@michaeloconnor9581]

Such a wonderfully made video!

[@themeatpopsicle]

Rishat is going to be a real contender at the Olympics. Mark my words.

[@dlln.1353]

I think he's the most well-rounded of all the speed climbing specialists. So if he manages a top spot in speed, then I wouldn't be surprised at all to see him on the podium.

[@trezapoioiuy]

@@dlln.1353 Yeah, most speed climbers are too specialized, in fact they're the ones who'd benefit the most if there were separate medals.

[@jorgeloredo9603]

I agree with you! I think Michael Mawen too, he was a speed specialist that has been competing in bouldering a lot lately and doing extremely good

[@themeatpopsicle]

@@jorgeloredo9603 i got them mixed up too, Bassa is the speed specialist, Mickael is the all-rounder

[@loujetlag]

Beautiful vid, thanks, Adam! I hope our gym owners hear you!

[@BlocBusters]

really liked the visualization of holds on the spray wall ;)

[@ChancellorMarko]

its scary Adam is still getting better!

[@ilyanikitin6248]

wow i didnt know how valuable these are, i have one at my gym and its digital, the holds for the route are highlighted with leds and you can control the incline of the wall with a remote control. Def going to try this.

[@clintmayes4782]

This is all the gyms in Japan and I love it

[@EzAvABlink]

Thankfully I feel like tools like the Kilter board are striving to bring the splash board back into prominence. Also I feel like the splash board at my gym is going to see plenty of use now that this video is up!

[@jonasbaldauf7384]

I am just lovin the new intro

[@bepowerification]

2:41 Adam seems so young there. like.. 2 :D

[@SKEPGFX]

That editing is insane. I want more of these in handfulls lol

[@philippgothert7286]

Thank you for the words at the end! I think this will help, because people do what you say😂

[@porrasm]

I really should climb on these more, especially when my gyms have high quality spray walls.

[@PotHat]

Thanks Adam

[@tanguylehoux4270]

we have a spray wall in my gym its a very usefull tool for bouldering and doing endurance circuits /loop

[@tiamat87]

so true more spray walls, please

[@odgie9915]

Just goes to show. Even from what appears to be chaotic, flow and elegance is hiding somewhere.

[@adampataki4319]

Wow! That move!!!!

[@SuperKneehow]

editor of this video is a god

[@DonPrus]

Will you make some moonboard sessions?

[@skyblue2290]

boulder 4 looked insane!

[@julija9096]

Our gym is just spray wall and coaches show us boulders and I think that this is great way to get better becouse they know what every single one can do and they try to push our limits

[@pavelbelik6174]

Such cool boulder problems!!

[@drglobule8a]

the ability to set up problems just by pointing at the holds is indeed awesome. I miss my old gym for that.

[@LostinYTblackhole]

The only gyms near me are geared towards making the most money as possible. I use to be an employee at one of them for the free climbing lo, they just had us push all the programs and camps for kids that they had to offer and try to make people who can’t even climb V1s- V3s rent shoes and chalk. Not to mention the 5+ birthdays we had per day.

[@tiuclaudio]

Long live the good old school spray walls

[@tadeassrobar3527]

Record the video With magnus midtbø please 😀

[@andywml]

Epic!

[@karenesmonde-white2363]

Great video! What music did you use?

[@antonhardegg3168]

What a nice video!

[@MyThazy]

Anyone know the name of the song at 2:46?

[@kickimeijer5271]

I wish we had this ” old” style of climbing in Stockholm today. The indoor climbing has changed so its not as good for training. Today its really only one place out of 6 places. And I mean training for everybody. What happenend? Will we see smaller places with only training, like Kilter, Moon etc?Thanks Adam for you input, maybe you and only names like you can change it🙏.

[@OneDerscoreOneder]

this is fantastic

[@drewharris7785]

Stating the obvious but oh my, the muscles on this man!

[@kunx104]

just started with these crazy spray walls and its really fun to do but also tiring as hell

[@tobiaszkedzierski5723]

Great montage :D

[@chooseacareer]

Hey Adam! thanks for all the great quality videos! any special tips on the type of holds to put on a spray wall?

[@foihdzas]

Agreed! we have a small spray wall, where the holds never change, and its below other routes. Not inspiring at all. Here's hoping gym owners listen :)

[@pavelbelik6174]

Rishad looks really strong!

[@stefan.h.666]

You are very welcome at Exxpozed Climbing

[@Supwiyaman]

Can I come here, looks sick

[@ApetitBuoN]

Lokalblok v Praze na Andělu ... to je oldschool bouldrovka pouze se spray wally :D

[@Xfonk]

Nice!: D

[@charliexoxox]

i replayed 3:50 onwards at 0.5 speed probably 10 times to figure out what the heck is going on… still haven’t figured it out

[@LukeRockCimber]

Anyone know what the angle of the wall at 2:54 is?

[@celestinstampfli3379]

Adam the G.O.A.T

[@DonPrus]

Great video!

[@spielkiste_podcast]

We have a spray wall at my home gym but it's so steep and the holds are mostly so bad that it doesn't make much sense to train there without a certain amount of power and technique. Thats pretty unfortunate.

[@sanderwerelds364]

Whats the angle of the main wall ? Thak u so much.

[@DirtyPoul]

As a beginner, I don't like spray walls unless I have an experienced climber to give me problems. Otherwise, it's just too daunting for a beginner like me to even know where to begin with route designs. It's really difficult to know roughly how difficult the problem will be when you're a beginner.

[@Frodoswaggns]

STOKT app, your gym might have problems already set on it via that app!

[@elwiz81]

wdychanie magnezji jest bardzo szkodliwe

[@paulliptrot3098]

Hi adam, I am in the process of building a home wall. Possible may turn into a spray wall type wall. Space is a limiting factor. The only space available is in my loft. To maximise the length of the wall and to make the build simpler the angle (on one side at least) will have to be 60°. Do you think this is too steep for a home wall? I am concerned that the angle will limit its usefulness. I do have plans in the distant future to add a 45° or 25° on the other side of the loft but the pitch of the roof will result in this side being a lot shorter (I.e 2.5m ish) and cost is also a factor. I am currently climbing V3 to V05 and struggle to fit more than 1 gym session a week in due to work/family commitments. So the idea of the build is to increase this to two or even three a week. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

[@raymondfoo9045]

How does spray wall compared to moonboard or tension board regarding the effectiveness of training?

[@felix3821]

sick !

[@olivierdlc1833]

Old gym are the best to get strong physically.

[@benedictionkupo]

great video :)

[@erispe]

I didn’t quite get why these walls are better for training. Is it because you have more problems to do than on a normal wall? Also I wouldn’t be able to find any routes on one lol.

[@WuschelofDespair]

I didn’t find the part where he explains why the spray wall is so good. Why is it better to climb a route with 1000 other holds around than climbing the same route with no other holds around?

[@rowanferwerda4865]

It's the style of climbing. Not many circuit boulders are set in this straight foreward pull hard in a 45 degree overhang style. Gyms like to set nicer climbs with more flow and intricate moves and positions that require problem solving and beta finding, not just pull hard and go boulders. These circuit boulders are very fun to climb but don't make the best strength training. You might find a couple of these overhang straight on no tricks involved power problems in a gym if they even set in this style but not too many and maybe only a couple that are in your grade, on a spray wall you can think of hunderds.

[@aviadglove7]

would you say there is a certain level you need to be on to be able to train on this kind of wall? i mean i get that its a training tool, but can beginners use it as well? lets say someone who feel comfortable on V3/4?

[@nickbedford]

swaglord I found that I needed quite a bit of foundational finger and arm strength (8 months climbing so far plus recent campus/finger board training) before I was able to do anything on our gym's 30/45° spray wall. I'm only able to manage V1/2 problems but they feel a good bit tougher than the normal gym climbing. Kinda matches my outdoor bouldering experience so far. Before now, I would be baffled at how strong you needed to be even to hold onto some of the spray wall holds.

[@JohKemStYl3]

Spraywall is really really hard for me for some reason. It is nearly impossible to do several routes on one day.

[@leoingson]

For me, too - it seems to be about work capacity (tank is empty much faster if strength is involved), and getting used to spending that type of energy(system). Are you the skinny endurance type?

[@tathtath]

because you need to rest between attempts even up to 10 minutes

[@JohKemStYl3]

Bla Blum Yes I am the skinny endurance type. I can do maybe 2-3 routes on the spraywall and that is the whole training.

[@leoingson]

@@tathtath Yeah, generally that helps. Only a bit tho, if the intensity is too high (for most people it's ok).

[@leoingson]

​@@JohKemStYl3 I guess we have to slowly up the work capacity, and step by step introduce intensity to the body. Additional strength training should help. Search for "mid-5.13" in this article: www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-007-steve-bechtel-training-power-endurance-running-weight-loss/

[@JustSnowglow]

Nice Shaggy cosplay!

[@antoinearnaud1126]

What is the brand of the big red slopes?

[@ondrejstolicka317]

Jak bylo v Brně na závodech? A byl jsi druhý gratuluji

[@guilhermegomes1314]

(naive beginner question) how does one know which are the bolder problems on an spray wall? I was only able to understand what was going on because of the circle markings on the edit, but if I actually went to a spray wall how would I know what to try?

[@mariusjns]

You make your own problem. Endless possibilities

[@guilhermegomes1314]

@@mariusjns oh I see, thanks! I imagine this type of wall is not so good for beginners, right?

[@madelinepindell7870]

2:42 you’re welcome

[@ericconnor3728]

2:45 yay

[@1REEBOOK]

Why "Road to Tokyo" series got renamed to "Adam Ondra" ? :( Copyrights?

[@LucasWildTheeWildBoy]

What is the height of that spray wall? Seems like a really good height.

[@Friskmest]

He,s perfect body. 💪🏻💪🏻💪

[@izquiel2]

More spray wall please gym owners.

[@stijnraes6620]

How does a spray wall work? You choose a route? Or there are existing routes?

[@TravisNotSoBland]

Just use your imagination and create you own routes. I try and design them based on my weaknesses for example like pinches or big dynamic moves

[@TravisNotSoBland]

Good for recreating a project you're trying outside too

[@richarddoan9172]

Any idea what the angle of the wall is?

[@johnsimcox1139]

FINALLY A NEW INTRO The insanely over-dramatic intro music was so unfitting paired with the strange silhouette of you hopping down a little ledge with a backpack on. Idk why this bothered me so much but I'm glad you changed it HAHA.

[@ikbeneenleipo]

I was wondering, how do you determine which holds to use? Do you (or anyone else) have any tips?