Adding constant power to rear of 5th Gen 4Runner

In this video, I demonstrate how I installed a constant, controllable source of 12v power to the back of my 2020 4Runner TRD Pro.
Both of the factory AC and DC plugs that Toyota provides to the rear of the vehicle are only powered when the engine is running or if the vehicle is in accessory mode. I wanted a solution that allowed me to control when the power is on or off and also provides protection from accidental excessive discharge of my battery. I chose to wire my aftermarket rear power source to my Switch-Pros 9100 as it allows me to control when the power is on, either through the touchpad on my dash or using the Switch-Pros app on my phone. The Switch-Pros 9100 also has protection for accidental excessive battery discharge.
Parts used:
Blue Sea Systems 4366 Panel Acc H2O USB SCKT & VMETER: www.amazon.com/dp/B07PP1V3L5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
GS Power 100% Copper 10 AWG (American Wire Gauge) OFC Wire. 25 FT: www.amazon.com/dp/B0796JJHTQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Switch Pros SP-9100: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079B2FX1H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Finn Fab 5th Gen 4Runner Rear Window Molle Panels: yotamafia.com/product/5th-gen-4runner-power-grid/
*Begin Disclaimer*
This video is for demonstration purposes only. It is me demonstrating how I performed this modification. I make no warranties, nor do I take any responsibility for damage to your vehicle. Always seek advise or assistance from a trained professional.
*End Disclaimer*

[@InGratitudeIam]

That was really helpful and well done. One thing I found useful is to run a loop that dips below the insertion point before going through the grommet. That way, any water that runs down the wire ends up being directed below the insertion point rather than run down the wire through the grommet.

[@jordanfowler9698]

Great walkthrough. That 4Runner is cleaner than the day I picked mine up from the dealer!

[@sergios.2276]

That looks clean!! Awesome

[@FarNorthAdventure]

Dang, great explanation and walk through.

[@81GTUN4]

excellent video. thank you.

[@markouellette788]

Great Presentation!

[@steviehernandez158]

Great work 👏👍🏻👌💪

[@mikec5812]

Instead of hacking up the grommet in the engine compartment all you have to do is move over to the grommet closer to the fender and snip off the little rubber cone projection. It opens up a factory hole that will seal itself around the wire.

[@skoolynugenator1802]

When I ran the cord for my Auxbeam I just cut a slit in the grommet and fed it through. What’s wrong with that? It still seals up around it.

[@2AToday]

Awesome video!

[@electricryano]

Great video. Helped me figure out how to route to that same area. Like MikeC said that little unused grommet is made for diy additions. Also, I would loom any wires with corrugated or nylon weave split loom. Last thing, that 10Ga (35-40A) is probably over kill for two cig lighter outlets (10A each).

[@AZOverland2017]

Nice clean install. Wish you had shown a demo of how this unit works.

[@InGratitudeIam]

That's your job! :)))

[@stacyrobinson6142]

Thank you for the video, it is timely. Is there a way to not add a second panel, and connect constant power to the inverter and 12 volt socket?

[@PostFamilyPilgrimage]

There’s a relay you can pick up at O Riley’s auto that will allow you to have power to all outlets all the time. I like though that your setup is more fail proof… if I leave my fridge plugged in for days, I’d have a dead battery for sure!

[@joeblough4605]

Nice job, thanks. Do you have 2 batteries? if so, do you have a video of that install? And how long can you refrigerator run before the batteries disconnect from low voltage ?

[@cameronlyseng5033]

Great install video! I have a question in regard to wiring to the switch pro. It is my understanding that any accessories wired to the switch pro only work when the vehicle is running or in accessory mode. How do you achieve the constant power controlled by the switch at the rear when the vehicle is off, but also controlled by the switch pro panel/app when the vehicle is on?

[@theoverlanded]

You can configure some or all of the switches on the SP to be always on. The one switch where I control the accessories to the back is on one of the switches that I have so configured.

[@ChachiOhm]

Very well done video, man. Bad-ass setup. I really liked how you showed the whole wire run process including removing all the panels. That was very brave of you to do on video 😂, but it helps others (like me) learn what to watch out for!!! I am actually running an AC outlet to the FRONT of the car from the back and doing an in-motion harness on the inverter, so this video showed me just about everything I need to do and answered ALL my questions Any special notes on the door threshold panels? They seem to be very STUCK on there for me. Also, why did you run a separate black wire to the back and not just pickup a chassis ground? Just curious. Again, awesome video!!!

[@theoverlanded]

Regarding the threshold panels, some careful prying with a panel removal tool and getting my fingertips under it. Just don’t force it. Regarding the ground, yeah, could have saved myself some cable.

[@doberman118]

didnt you just show hooking up to the starter battery ? why not just plug in the 12v socket and use while driving ? or are you adding a second battery and dc dc charger ?

[@raphaeljube6645]

Nice review. Is there a reason you did t just run the power under the vehicle instead of running through the way you did? Thanks for the video

[@theoverlanded]

I am not a big fan of running wires underneath the vehicle, other than when necessary.

[@americanmade422]

Whyd you pick 10 Guage??

[@rafaelr5837]

There’s diagrams on the internet that tell you what gauge you need depending on the distance from the battery and how much draw you’ll have.

[@anthonyjohnston3033]

Did you already have a hole drilled behind the jbl speaker cover? Or is there another access point around the shelf? How long would you estimate this took you?

[@theoverlanded]

You can access behind the lower part of the JBL speaker cover plate from inside the wheel well once you take the cover off. I had to fish the wire behind the speaker plate since the speaker plate doesn’t come off unless you take apart much more than I wanted to. The job took a couple of hours.

[@anthonyjohnston3033]

@@theoverlanded Ah got it, I have an open shelf there, with no other openings it seems. Got the wheel well open using your method with the screws, looks like I need to drill a small hole from this point. Thanks for the video, it’s helpful and you had such a clean setup!

[@anthonyjohnston3033]

@@theoverlanded - For anyone who might have the same setup as me, I ran the power harness to the taillight and then drilled a small light through that cover. I did my best to then wrap it up and zip tie it behind the panel. It’s not as hidden, but that way if I ever decide to sell/remove the setup, I can easily and cheaply replace the cover (no permanent drilling).

[@ryanskeete]

@@anthonyjohnston3033 I would like to see your setup!