Adjust the V Slot Wheels on your 3D Printer for Better Prints!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

You're definitely on a roll with this video.

[@BV3D]

This comment definitely has a bearing on the subject. 😉

[@GreenAppelPie]

I’d like to add roll your carriage manually all the way to the stops to check for smoothness; a couple of times I’ve found gunk of the v-groove that I had no idea how it got there.

[@khisanthxanadu2192]

The explanation on how the hole in the eccentric nut is off center and is the reason why turning it makes a difference, was just great! Now it makes sense as I had previously thought it was tightening or loosening. Thanks!

[@williamwiese9963]

As a new Ender3 owner, you have just got another subscriber. Great videos thank you!!

[@ideazon4046]

The best video I have seen explaining the v-wheels. Thanks!

[@themountain59]

Thats a detail often gets forgotten! 👍

[@tegaidayt]

This is a must watch. So many videos going through step by step maintenance and never mention this rather important step. My prints are solid, but ended tightening a few things!

[@donvee1419]

Love his hair! Bryans a straight up rock star. I wanna see him head bang heavy with those awesome locks while beltin out an insane solo on a 3d printed electric guitar.

[@DarrenGerbrandt]

When you first said eccentric nuts, I thought hey just like Brian 😁 Nicely explained.

[@josephpk4878]

If your turning the eccentric nut with ease, you should tighten the bolt/nylon lock nut assembly until there's a decent amount of pressure to prevent it from loosening and getting wobbly again.

[@briantaylor4559]

There were so many dad jokes and puns and i enjoyed every single one of them. I personally have had issues with the wheels on the z axis. ill tighten the nut on either side and i find, it affect the tightness on the opposite side. i haven't really found a good system for fixing the z axis tension, just alot of back and forth on both sides until its good.

[@MatthewNelson104]

This video explains the eccentric nut and how these V-slot wheels operate better then others I have seen! thanks for this awesome video!

[@JdiJoey]

I like that when you showed the wobble you intentionally went really slow and shook it, but when you tightened it you were extremely fast and didn’t even attempt to shake it to show how tight it became.

[@thunder1949]

I can't tell you how you made my day!!! I have messed around with trying to stop the wobble for days. I'm new to this and it was really frustrating. After watching your video, was up and running in a snap. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@MrSpazbomb]

Just the video I needed. I could find plenty of places online that would tell me to adjust my wheels and tell me how, but no one would tell me what an adjusted wheel was supposed to be like. I get the same with belts. Dozens of people telling me to make them "tight" but you'd think with all the engineers out there someone would quantify what "tight" means.

[@phigri33d]

Thanks Bryan! I have been printing since February 2022. I started with an Artillery SW X2 new from Amazon. I have since increased it to 4 different machines. The latest being a used SW X2. I have been watching your channel for the last 3 months or so and really enjoy your knowledge and presentations. I was having issues with the print quality of the used SW X2, I thought I had done all the checks but missed the eccentric nut on my X axis which is way loose. Thank you for taking me back to the basics and you sound like Casey Kasem to me.

[@jbt9033]

Bro THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! This is the third video I’ve watched today. Literally anytime I need help you have a video on it. I couldn’t do it without man keep it up

[@jeromeweaver809]

I got to thank you for how the V Slot Wheels works. I was trying to figure out why one side of my bed was slightly higher than the other. It turned out that when I changed the wheels, I turned the adjustment nuts (right side print bed) the wrong way, not in the holes. I spent two days trying to figure this out until I watched this video. Thank you!

[@WhimsyCottage]

As a beginner almost none of the setup video's mention the v slot wheels or they don't show and explain properly how and why you are doing this, thanks for the great explanation!

[@BV3D]

Glad it helped! 😊

[@jtnix]

Thanks for the basic explanation with obvious visual confirmation. 👍 And the 'wheel good time' joke got you my sub.

[@Smedleydog1]

This is a good reminder, I haven't checked my wheel adjustment for about 6 months.

[@boballen6911]

Thanx Bryan! I never knew that adjustment existed. Fixed my problem in about 5 minutes.

[@highmetal3630]

I've been printing on my CR10 for the last month looking like there's an earthquake going on. I just tightened everything, so my extruder doesn't shake off the x axis. Can't wait to see the improvement. lol Thanks for putting out this information.

[@Oldguard1776]

Thank you! It was the middle nut that I needed to adjust. On mily Ender 5 s1, I had to put an Allen wrench on the front and lossen the lock nut at the back, 7mm I think, but just a bit so you can move the middle nut you see in the thumbnail above. Then tighten down the lock nut on the back of the carriage while holding the bolt at the front with an Allen wrench. It's a pain when it's the bottom right wheel, yes two bottom wheels on the Ender 5. This video helped solve my prob.

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

very cool, taking the mystery out of all these confusing parts, thank you

[@nobodylovescrows9801]

and suddenly, one year later, a bearded man changes my printing life

[@claytonpurcell1582]

Thx this helped alot, i was worried that i had to buy new wheels but i just adjust it and it was fixed.

[@chibidoragon]

Awesome info, need to go and buy size 10 wrench first thing tomorrow

[@HyperGamma]

Just what I needed and in a simple to understand quick video! Thanks as always!

[@chriskober1]

Can you do a video on installing and setting up Klipper on a 3V2

[@ronm6585]

Wheelie good info. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻

[@BV3D]

Haha! You bet! 😀

[@rinusnel1695]

Thanks Bryan for all the tips. Love your channel. Keep up with the amazing clips and all of the best, Regards from South Africa, Cape Town.

[@Leroys_Stuff]

One of the most important steps next to bed leveling

[@zigma182]

You beautiful bearded man! I did not realise the screw hole was not centred in the nut, so I can adjust it!

[@supergobblin1]

amazing video, well narrated, truly professional

[@JusThyTipp]

Crazy coincidence I was just having this issue a week ago couldn't figure out what was wrong or a video to help and eventually figure out on my own that this was the problem

[@TechieSewing]

Thanks! People often say to adjust them but rarely show the process... that's why mine are now "adjusted" with an Allen key so basically too loose in a different sense.

[@poland153]

great vid bryan, this helped me with my jerk issues 🤙

[@zuko9085]

This explains why I kept trying to tighten the wheels and they kept being loose again haha. Didn't realize how the tightening process works.

[@rexgoodheart3471]

Excellent video, dude!

[@karersio7062]

i had this issue with my ender 3 but i didnt know how to fix it and what is this issue even named. i tried to fix it for a couple of days but this short tutorial helped me. my v wheels vere too tight and i trought that when the nut was tight then the wheel was tight but i was wrong

[@donr2755]

😁 you made me smile and learn keep it up.

[@AndrewAHayes]

They are called V slots because if you continue the angle of each side it will show a V, the wheels are not the exact profile of the extrusion which is why you get some wear on the POM wheels (this has been physically tested) once this has worn to the profile of the V slot it wont wear any further

[@yuriycas1719]

They also wear out because of radius difference in contact area

[@yosyp5905]

POM wheels? is the wear a breaking in period, how does it affect the quality?

[@frankrowland63]

Thanks I never new about the offset nut thing on the wheel mount spent frustating day untill i saw your video

[@hajunom1392]

I was wondering if I did it right. Of course I didn't yoo tight. Thanks for sharing

[@jwc4520]

Ha need to send you a pic , sure you'll enjoy this print.

[@BV3D]

HI John, send it to [e-mail] 👍

[@DroneSkinz]

Question: once adjusted can it, and should it be locked in place? Thanks for the tutorial

[@BV3D]

Hi! They're usually not going to rotate on their own. The bolt that goes through the eccentric nut (and through the wheel) has a Nyloc nut on the other side, so it stays reasonably tight. You can tighten the bolt & Nyloc nut if it seems super easy to turn the eccentric nut, though. (That part of it all is typically pretty tight from the factory).

[@GreenAppelPie]

I’ve always seen locknut used on these, but just wear and tear makes for the occasional need for adjusting

[@JulianiLuckeey]

@@BV3D That's right but you still need to adjust the excentric nut by rotating the way that you are tightening the bolt. This way you make sure you are not losening the connection!

[@HakanOnurDerici]

Super practical explanation. But in addition to those x axis and y axis rollers you should have included the rollers on the z axis as well!

[@yosyp5905]

same procedure

[@mjsoukup]

Over time my slot wheels got loose on my ender 3 and started impacting my print quality. This process is 100% how I tightened them all.

[@BenEBrady]

Another excellent and clearly articulated video from the BV3D channel.

[@ultima8250]

Hey Brian, after watching your review I decided on a Sidewinder X2. Is there any way to fix the flat spots on some of the wheels, or do I just have to replace them? My printer's wheels came locked down tight and nearly all the wheels on the Y-Carriage and X-Carriage feel like they have flat spots even when loose. Any solution?

[@BV3D]

I think the flat spots eventually work their way out; in other words, once the wheel isn't being pressed super hard against the aluminum extrusion, the part that was flat will go back to its regular shape. But it can take a long time. I haven't tested to see HOW long, but that's an interesting question. I would maybe give it a week after having been adjusted to a more normal tension and see if they've gotten better.

[@ultima8250]

@@BV3D Alrighty thanks, will try!

[@moodydad]

i was just talking to my coworker about how my bed is wobbly. found this video and viola! no more wobbly bed!

[@manski209]

Great tip, thanks for sharing.

[@gladiatormechs5574]

so how often do you think that you have to replace the wheels as suppose to just making the tightening adjustments .?

[@LordByronMacintosh]

wonderful video thanks, really appreciate the tips !

[@Silverado21]

I really need to try and print that Mando Helmet.

[@TeoHarlan]

concise and informative, great job! Worth a subscribe.

[@organfan1968]

Great advice! What about that rubber boot on the hot end. Is it needed? Mine was damaged and I’ve left it off for the time being. Seems to still print ok. Just wondering. Thanks.

[@BV3D]

That thing is a silicone sock that fits on the heater block. It's two main uses are providing a little bit of thermal insulation to help the hot end maintain its temperature, and also to help keep filament from getting too gooped up on the heater block. They're pretty cheap, you can get like a 5-pack (or larger) on Amazon for under ten bucks. Searching for "silicone sock ender 3" or whatever printer you've got will probably turn up several. 👍

[@organfan1968]

Thanks! Your video was such a help assembling my Voxelab Aquila X2! Keep up the great work!

[@freedomofmotion]

Great presentation style.

[@jw200]

4:18 You forgot to say that there must not be any binding when you move bed forward/backward. If you feel even slightest binding, then fix it. Very often the wheels have flat spots. And need replacing to brand new. Even brand new wheels are bad sometimes. So better to buy 20-30 of them in sets, take good ones and throw away old ones or use them for other projects

[@OnyxLee]

Thanks for this great tip. Will the different angles cause the track to be not exactly perpendicular to the “dolly”?

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

No, as it pulls the entire bed closer or futher away using tension. A to loose nut can cause your bed to swivel, as demonstrated in this video. So a correctly tensioned nut will give a straight and smooth movement.

[@createinvent]

Thanks! I assume you need to lock it down with the other nut and screw after you're done?

[@WhamBamSystems]

who you calling an eccentric nut, buddy? great explanations Bryan!

[@dylanmaxard5822]

Could you please make a video of the replacement of these wheels for the ender 3v2 and proper recalibration? I have had mine super tight not knowing any better and have ran the wheels for a long time like this…

[@thinkdunson]

so if the wheels develop flat spots, is there any recourse but to replace them? thanks boss.

[@richd7916]

Wish I could find a quick way to adjust the bed on the ender neo max. seems like if the 3 fixed wheels are not lined up already, playing with the eccentrics will never end up with all 6 wheels adjusted. Know of a procedure to follow?

[@TheExtremeElementz]

When adjusting the extruder wheel shouldn’t you make sure the extruder is straight up and down before making those adjustments? If one roller is pitched higher or lower than the other it will cause the nozzle to not be plumb correct?

[@goob614]

You’re freaking awesome, thanks man!

[@utkuduman7231]

hi, thanks for your video. in my printer, the front of the bed is lower than the back, ender 3 v2, what can I do?

[@FilmFactry]

Weird Question. In my Ender 3 style printer. My X axis has 4 wheels. But one of the wheels has the nut and bolt attached reversed to the other 3? Is there a reason for that, or a mistake in the factory?

[@BV3D]

Hi, what is the make & model of your printer? I'm kind of curious about how that's set up.

[@craftsmanchris7]

Great video man. I am using Ender 3 S1 pro and I have an issue with the Z-axis V wheels. They are unbalanced. 2 can spin free and the other is too tight. can you please make a video on correctly adjusting the V wheels on the Z axis? Thanks

[@ArcanePath360]

If your Z axis ones are too tight it will affect your layers. Some will over extrude because of flat spots preventing the carriage moving up. Too loose and you will get the same effect. The Z axis ones are the most crucial to get right because the layer height needs far more precision for good quality. You have to be able to turn every wheel by hand, with a little force and see it slide against the V slot without making the carriage go up or down, but not move too freely.

[@theATF]

well my z axis came crazy right already and wont slide against . it's hard for me to bring the carriage up manually but the printer seems to be fine with it

[@ruk3d]

I've noticed that my X rail profile has some uneven surface where the third wheel touches it , is there any chance to fix that without changing the rail? Tried to fix it with this wheel adjustments but no luck

[@miccr2655]

Could you do I video of on the sovol sv05 cubic . Wheels on inside have nut but one on out side are to loose and have to tighten to tight to get them right I can't find a good middle 😊l

[@brandonniebur768]

Very informative and entertaining! I for one thoroughly enjoy your jokes!Seriously keep them coming! Third wheel....just great!! 😂

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

On point video, also on the advice ...

[@omergebes6105]

Just what I need, thanks

[@dodgyaz]

What is the sequence for beds with 6 Y axis wheels where the centre eccentric nut is on the opposite side to the others?

[@jasonhopper2130]

Excellent Thank you for this

[@hermannel1310]

I think I need some more explaining please . Adjusting the "z-axis moving kit" (Ender 3v2), one has 6 wheels to check. Now keeping in mind what you've said, "adjust the wheel until slight slip" (+/-), (only the two inside wheels can adjust), leaves one of the outside wheels somewhat loose (both sides). Adjusting the inside wheel until the outside wheel/s becomes tighter until "just slips", causes the inside wheels to push much harder against the vertical extrusions, as if the z-axis extrusions are to close for the assembled kit wheel spacing. . . . or am I missing something here? . . or wheel alignment of the two sections? How?🤔

[@teriyakipuppy]

What happens if tightening the eccentric nut still results in a wobble? I have experienced with my cr-10s

[@jcfpv3454]

Thank you Sir you have really helped me so much i greatly appreciate it

[@bowl1820]

In regard to the wheels on the Z-axis, What if the top wheel is looser than the bottom wheel? How do you make them equal tightness?

[@vikkidyer]

Hi were is the excentric nut on the ender 3 v3 ke please xx

[@BV3D]

Hi, it looks like the Ender-3 V3 KE uses smooth rods and linear bearings, instead of wheels and V-slot aluminum extrusions. So, no adjustment needed on that printer. 👍🏻

[@blewprent]

EXCELLENT video!!!!

[@1937Brett]

Hey reli need some help my x axies on the right side needs to be half a mm up to be level any ideas how I can do this

[@cathyomalley2772]

Thanks that's really helpful.

[@danialjavann8754]

Thank you for your complete guide I have a question I have a (Creality CR6-MAX) printer There are 12 wheels on the (Y) axis, which are separated by two rails My problem is that the bad heat plate moves back or forward too hard and this has caused the (Y) motor to overheat too early. Although I adjusted the wheels well, it still does not run smoothly Dear teacher, please guide me what should I do

[@Maf7631]

Do you tighten or loosen the non eccentric nuts??

[@Jasserv]

Great vid!

[@toad7000]

Great jokes, puns, and information.

[@QUIET151311]

Thank you again sir, great info as always.

[@dougkirk6842]

I have an ender 3 pro, ender v2, ender 3 max and a cr10 . All of them when I checked out the bed and roll it there was a distinct thump and roll a little more another thump. I marked the wheels and it was in one revolution. I pushed the bed with one finger lightly and when that thump happened the bed would stop. I thought the wheel had a flat spot or the rail had a dent or dip but couldn't find anything. replacing the wheels and it was gone. I can only think that some where the wheels were cranked down hard at one time and sitting in a warehouse and on a ship then in port they developed a flat spot or the bearings were damaged. I think they were only the eccentric nuts that were bad but I changed them all just because. Just a FYI.

[@geobum]

my extruder hits an obvious "stop" on the gantry track at the middle and toward end of both ends. is that supposed to happen. with a little extra force it breaks past the stop and rolls fine but the "stop" sensation i feel while trying to freely roll the extruder seems odd. i dont see other YTers mentioning it in their install videos and when they freely roll their extruder i get the impression theirs is not hitting these "stops" on the track. i looked at the wheels and they seem smooth (no obvious flat spots). any thoughts? first time 3d printing and i want to make sure it's adjusted correctly before i turn it on and try printing anything.

[@brynster101]

Great video as always. Could I ask you a question regarding the eccentric wheels on the bed. I'm new to the 3d printing world and I've just bought my first 3D printer. It has 6 wheels. It's an anacubinc kobra plus, but guess it's the same for most printers. I'm having an issue, should all 6 wheels be slightly gripping the runners as no matter how hard I try the centre wheel on the left keeps gripping really tight although it's as loose as I can get it. Adjusting the outer wheels the centre left still gets really tight. Any help or suggestions you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

[@alliefoster]

May I ask here if I can put jyersUI firmware on my ender 3?

[@itzikovadia851]

Thanks very helpful

[@madr8b]

Great video, I would like add you should check the rollers on the Z Axis as well. If they are too tight or too loose it will allow the Z to get cockeyed and Jam the Z Axis. Thanks for the video and all you do for us. Dan

[@Karaon]

awesome shirt man

[@Triptweeze]

Last night I had an issue while 3D printing. My printer started its usual routine to auto level with the sensor. Unfortunately the sensor decided that it was not going to do the one job that it has, sense the bed 😂. The printhead drives itself into the glass bed and I totally forget how to turn my printer off. After 3 years of using the same printer... I can't find the button. My printer sits there and continues to drive the head into the glass bed. Pop Pop Pop Pop. That's the only sound that I hear as the had continues it's madness. My senses came back to me and I found the power button. Now I have to check and make sure that everything is still in alignment. Everything looked good and I print a test print. Weird layer shifts started happening. It would be totally fine up until a certain point and then decide that it would just give up and shift. I spent so much time last night trying to figure out what the issue was. Never have I ever needed to adjust the eccentric nut on my printers. Well last night was an exception because that's exactly what was wrong. It drove the head so hard into the bed that it definitely moved that nut and caused the head to start wobbling. Proof that no matter how long you've been 3D printing, something will always fail when you least expect it. And your knowledge will always be tested. Thank you for this upload!