Adjusting PSU Voltage and Stepper VREF Voltages

[@pauls7409]

SRSLY, I keep coming back to this video for the voltage number. Got an X/Y/Z shift? This is the first thing I check. Bookmarking now. I've had the pleasure of talking to Tim on the phone, we were both having bad days and we agreed that email was not the best way to communicate. I can tell you that this company, and it's owners, love their customers. Great guy, great products, great company. Since that call I've been a full-on supporter and advocate for TH3D Studios. Plus, you're supporting a small American based business. Great video, helpful as always.

[@TH3DStudio]

Thank you so much Paul for taking the time to leave the comment. I appreciate your support and understanding. I wish we could do 100% phone support here if it wasn't so expensive. I think a lot gets lost in translation over email and that's what leads to things coming across incorrectly. Thank you again and I hope you have a great day.

[@alzeal]

my x, y, and Z from the factory were set to 0.56, I was getting shifting on the Y axis. I upped the voltages to x 0.73, y 0.83, and z 0.73. Issues have disappeared. Very happy now.

[@jdcamc]

Here I am, back, again, today!! Tim's tutorials are always a great help!! Thanks, again, Tim!!

[@PiNPOiNT2K]

Does the extruder Vref need to be adjusted if using a BMG extruder due to the unique gear ratio?

[@Kris2340k]

Note your steppers need to be enabled (which they are not if you just turn it on) If the control box is open instead of jankily turning it upside down, plug in the usb and open cura and move each axis to enable it.

[@tranceonline]

I could be wrong but isn't more current needed when in parallel and more voltage when in series?

[@linnes56]

This fixed my layer shifting! I had a Y layer shift at a specific height every time, my CR-10 V2 Y motor was set to 1.4 volts, so I increased it to 1.8, and it stopped shifting.

[@TH3DStudio]

Nice work!

[@sandlinjames]

Thank you. I have been looking all over for a non-engineer guide on how to check my voltages. This has helped greatly.

[@TH3DStudio]

Glad it helped

[@yoerim360]

what is needed for the ender 5 + extruder motor? as it seems to be on a strike here out of the box :(

[@TH3DStudio]

Depends on the driver that is on the board. This would be a great thing to post in our communities about. They are available for you to get help with your 3D printer. Check them out here: community.th3dstudio.com/

[@yoerim360]

@@TH3DStudio is a ceramic screwdriver needed? according to creality vref for the extruder on e5+ should be around 1.38-1.40v so i can go ahead and get it set correctly

[@Akbar_Friendly_in_Cherno]

Any way to find the Max Rated Current of the Creality stock 42-40 and 42- 34 motors? I could only find one aftermarket site specing them at 1.5A. This would work out to something like this for TMC2208: TMC 2208 VREF equation: VREF= (RMS current x 2.5) / 1.77 RMS = Max rated current / 1.41 RMS = 1.5A / 1.41 RMS = 1.063 VREF = (1.063 x 2.5) / 1.77 VREF = 1.5014 with recommended 10% safety margin: VREF = 1.33 Thoughts?

[@Ladariderful]

Hello, I've never adjusted PSU voltage on my printer but after seeing this video I checked it and my PSU shows 12,51V. Since I'm not powering my bed from the PSU but directly from 230V, can I lower the voltage down to exactly 12V or would that be too little for another components?

[@mikegustafson6679]

Great video and explanation... What should the voltages be on an Ender 5 plus? My Z is now over heating after I converted to direct drive... do you think the voltage could be the issue? Thanks in advance!

[@godslayer5564]

Thanks for this. My X and Y were 0.8V from the factory, I lowered it to 0.75V and I'll see how it does. The Z was already 1V. While the extruder drivers were both at 0.65V and I increased them to 0.85V.

[@leofortey7561]

Can you give a follow-up? How did it run with lower voltage? Did you return to stock?

[@master-gbig1140]

I have a CR 10. It will print the first test line on the left side of the print bed. Then half of the circle frame border around where the parts are to be printed and nothing else after that. So, as soon after I hit (Stop Print), and "Move Axes-Y up", I can purge the Extruder with no problem. "It just won't maintain heat enough to print parts". And it's totally dishonest about temperature readings. It shows the temperature I want, but that's not the temperature I get. I figure it's the power supply, what do you think?

[@TH3DStudio]

Are you sure its not a bed level issue? If you extrude manually with the nozzle at temp will it flow out of the nozzle?

[@master-gbig1140]

@@TH3DStudio Yes it does extrude manually, but; I figured out what the problem was. Inside the power supply are these two ceramic rings with copper wire wrapped around them. There is a loose hanging sensor with two black wires connected to it with a clear high-temperature silicon sleeve around it. It was hanging at a 30° angle to the opening of the two ceramic rings. Because it wasn't fully inside the ceramic rings, It would relay a false temperature reading for the Thermister. Once I shoved it all the way in between the two ceramic rings everything started working just fine again. I just finished getting three great prints. Thank you for getting back to me, I like and subscribe to your channel because you're the greatest!

[@willywgb]

Hi Tim I have an Ender 3 with a 24 Vdc Power Supply. Obviously the Drivers Reference Voltage on Controll Board should be set to the same values as a 12Vdc Power Supply. But what should the output of the 24Vdc Power Supply be set to? Thanks for your Videos and help with my question. Cheers Willy

[@TH3DStudio]

The Ender 3 is fine at 24V, it heats quick at that setting.

[@ABritinthPhilippines]

Where's the link to the plastic screwdriver.

[@henryb33]

Awesome video! My extruder motor gets really hot and shuts down after some minutes printing, will this solve this issue? Are this numbers the same for a cr10 v3? Thanks in advance.

[@TH3DStudio]

yeah it will. Just back off the VREF by about 0.2V and see if it still extrudes correctly and runs cooler. If it looses steps go back up by 0.1V.

[@DarylKLR650]

Thanks a ton ! Was having issues trying to get dual z kit working on my Ender 3 Pro , this fixed my main problem ( but now screen clicking by itself every now and then ) . By the way you can also hold the volt meter lead to the screwdriver while setting the potentiometer ( way faster ! )

[@TH3DStudio]

Sounds like this would be relevant to fix the LCD issue: support.th3dstudio.com/hc/product-information/3rd-party-control-boards/skr-e3-mini-skr-e3-turbo-creality-v4-2-2-and-v4-2-7-lcd-emi-issue/

[@sgymnasteg]

So I'm following along using this video to adjust voltages on my ANYCUBIC Mega X stepper drivers and I have the black lead connected to the ground port on my power supply while probing the pluses next to the drivers and mine is reading -001 to -005, which can't be right. The multi-meter is on the 2000 setting like your instructions say and I moved all my axises a tiny bit to enable them with the printer still turned on while I'm doing this and I'm still getting these weird readings. What am I doing wrong?

[@TH3DStudio]

try other settings on your meter and make sure you are on DC voltage, not AC.

[@bedkeepstrying]

Great video! I'm getting a bit confused though because putting the multimeter right in the center of the screw gives me normal voltage(760) but touching anywhere else on the screw gives me double voltage. I have them all set checking the center but my prints have been garbage since adjusting them.

[@garrettslobey9204]

so should z and e be the same voltage if they are wired in parallel?

[@loganbarboza4248]

Will this also help with the motors over heating?

[@TH3DStudio]

If motors are overheating, lower the VREF be 0.1V until that motor stops overheating but you also do not lose steps on that axis.

[@shabancio]

if i have replaced the standard extruder with a bmg i should adjust the extruder motor voltage? to what voltage?

[@TH3DStudio]

You should see what Bondtech recommends in their installation materials and set it to that.

[@shabancio]

@@TH3DStudio its a bmg clone. are they the same?

[@lifeisgood070]

Just did this. I also had Y-Axis layer shifts every 10-20th print. CR-10S Original ---> new PSU Voltage: Original_ 11.9v New_ 13.35v Z-Motor(dual): Original_ 0.95v New_ 1.1v X-Motor: Original_ 0.72v New_ 0.85v Y-Motor: Original_ 0.75v New_ 0.91v Extruder-Motor: Original_ 0.7v New_ 0.91v Also, you can use a metal screwdriver like Wera and just touch the metal part with the multi-meter. This way you can read the adjustments and adjust at the same time. I think my printer is behaving a little funky now though. I'll have to monitor. Edit2: I think I have EMF Interference. I have wrapped the ribbon wires in Aluminum foil and electrical tape and moved other wires farther away from the PSU. Testing. yeah... you DEFINITELY have to shield the ribbon cables and move the other cables away from the psu on the CR-10S once you go above 12.something. Retarded PSUs. On the plus side prints are way faster now. It's like I added a supercharger. The motors are sooo responsive. Only time will tell if they overheat now.

[@manray8513]

Hey man, i want to mod my cr10s same as you, i still don’t understanda about shielding, which of ribbon cable that should be shield? And i should move which cable? Thanks

[@izitrix8016]

heyy man great video but probably need to add something some mainboard run on 24V so making sure first the psu is running at the proper voltage, main was dawn at 20.7 and it was the minimum I crank it up back to 24 and it should be ok now

[@TH3DStudio]

Check the AC input voltage switch as well. Most come set to 220/230V.

[@MJ-iw8hi]

For ender 3, which are the max vref we can set for xyz and E?

[@TH3DStudio]

E3 use 0.7 on X, 0.8 on Y, 0.8 on E and 0.9 on Z. Those should be good. Dont exceed 1.0.

[@MJ-iw8hi]

@@TH3DStudio Thanks for the note. It has been rather difficult to find the configurations of the 4 stepper motors. Do you happen to have them? eg. the max torque or current

[@minutemarvels247]

Hello , where do i get all the voltage references for the CR10-s5?

[@owca6666]

is cr-10s in series or parallel ? i set my voltage to 0.9 on Z as i cant find answer to the question.

[@inagerli]

Hi, my ender 5 plus is hole time moving on the left Z motor a little bit. i feel it when i level mauell, then the paper jams after some seconds the it loosens. And it then repeats itself over and over again. This happens after upgrade to a V2.2 Borad. You have an idea ?

[@TH3DStudio]

Could have a bad connection on the wire feeding the motor. If its "walking" that usually indicates that one of the coils is not getting proper power to hold position. One easy test would be to swap the 2 Z motor wires and see if the issue presents itself on the other motor then, if it does then the issue is the cable - if it doesn't then it may be the motor itself.

[@inagerli]

@@TH3DStudio thx ! Have found it. everytime when bed is heating , the distance between nozzel and bed is changing. Think thats normal.

[@inagerli]

Sorry, another question: do you know the pins of the z switch? Voltage, Signal and so on.

[@walterpolan8561]

If I add a second Z stepper in parallel what should the Vref be without damaging the driver chip?

[@TH3DStudio]

Just bump it up about 0.1V and see if you get lost steps. If you don't you're good, if you do then increase another 0.1v

[@walterpolan8561]

I'll give it a try. DO you know the max current of the chip?@@TH3DStudio

[@TH3DStudio]

I do not as I do not know what you have. Just follow the directions provided, it will work for most 3D printers on the market.

[@trialnterror]

Could you tell everyone what the proper VREF voltages are for X Y Z & E for an Ender 3?

[@TH3DStudio]

0.8, 0.9, 0.9, 0.9. You can try 1.0 on all. Basically if you run it too high the motor will just get warm. Nothing terrible. Better to be too high than too low.

[@garethwilliams2147]

mine were on 573 for x,y,z and 792 for e, ive cranked mine to 752 for xyz and e still same, motors are a little warmer to the touch but not too much to burn your hands

[@DreamC0mp]

@@TH3DStudio 2 Questions: 1. what are good VREFs for the New 1.1.5 Board with TCM2208 Drivers? 2. With a pancake Nema on the Extruder, what ist the best setting Thank you for helping

[@DadsterFlip]

I have a wire splitter for my dual z motor. Do I just need to up the voltage to .9?

[@TH3DStudio]

Depends on the drivers on your board. Check out our discord server here for getting things setup on your printer: Discord.TH3DStudio.com

[@chrisgrantham2648]

Amazing video thanks mate. Should the vref be the same for the 10s pro too? 7.5v X,Y and E then 9.5 for the dual Z? Also if I'm considering single Z screw would 7.5v be okay for a single Z

[@TH3DStudio]

I don't actually have the numbers for the Pro as they have different drivers. I'll reach out to Creality and see if they can provide us with the recommended VREF for that machine.

[@thuglifescorpion]

Any idea what the Vref should be for the 4.2.7 board with TMC2225 (?) drivers?

[@TH3DStudio]

See here: support.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/360055293652

[@chrisboring3170]

@@TH3DStudio I'm probably late to this, as the link is 404. For Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2 board a GD chipset, what are the proper values?

[@the-bu3lb]

what comes standard with the cr10s? series? also the carriage get loud grinding with at 100 % if I turn it down on the control screen to 70% its much more quiet I read it could be the motor its self if that's the case and I buy a new motor do I have to adjust in software or just follow this video you did? thanks the prints are smooth no missed lines or anything its just very loud when the carriage moves quick back and forth I did also install dampers on all 3 motors

[@jasondilly7955]

Hopefully you can answer me. My stepper motor has been skipping steps even after leveling/cleaning/exchanging nozzles. My question is: When adjusting voltages for E, can i use a metal screw driver to adjust ? Or does it have to be plastic? Sorry for my lack of knowledge lol

[@TH3DStudio]

Plastic or ceramic is safer but you can use metal. The only concern with using metal is that if you slip then you run the risk of shorting things out.

[@ZerocoolsPropsandCollectibles]

Did you adjust the voltages and did it help? My ender 5 plus just started this it will print a print and randomly stop extruding and the bed temp and nozzle turn off. Any idea why it started doing this?

[@marqii9842]

Hi there, I am a novice when it comes to circuitry so bear with me. I have a 10s5 and Im having an issue with my heater cartridge not heating up enough and I keep getting a heating failed error read out. I believe I might have shorted out the heating cables while replacing an old cartridge. To check the power going to the heating cartridge where would I place my multimeter. Also any other suggested solutions are welcome. Thanks :)

[@TH3DStudio]

You would want to check the screw terminal where the hotend heater wires connect to. Tell the board to heat and then see if you are getting 12V out of the terminal.

[@t3chninja_official]

Can I get a little help on my new venture into 3D printing. I bought a RepRapGuru (Out-of-Business) i3 printer just to get into the 3D printing world off eBay for $95. I have it together and mostly working except I can't get the extruder to extrude when everything is heated up. The gears just slightly move when I go into the menu and manually tell it to extrude. I can hook up the X cable to the extruder and it moves the gears without any issues. I checked the E driver voltage and have it up to .91 and yet still no movement. I had to purchase new drivers as I ended up with 2 bad ones so I needed on and I purchase TCM2108 drivers(man are they quiet!) and a new cable as both were bad. Now I at least get slight movement out of the motor/gears but still can't get it to extrude. This I hope is my last hurdle before I can finally print something. Anyone have any tips? Maybe another bad cable or driver? I guess I can swap them around and see. Ugh so close! Yes I am aware this is not the best printer but I love to tinker as do most of us, so it's a good project for me to learn on. Thanks!

[@TH3DStudio]

Check out our communities for help with your printer :) They are all listed here: community.th3dstudio.com/

[@DonTito89]

How many volts can the CR-10S board put out? I'm probably going replace my X and Y stepper motors.

[@BreydonsRC]

I did this with a new psu that I installed in my CR10 S5. The original psu lasted 6 years. A thermistor on the psu had popped and killed the psu. I put the new psu in, followed this vid, and everything has ran great for 5 months. Today the same exact problem happened to the new psu. Is there anything that can be causing this thermistor to overheat and burn out? I noticed the side of the control box where the thermistor is was very hot when my printer died. I am in the middle of a big job with big parts, and really need help getting this S5 running again. Thanks for this awesome vid. I realize it's pretty old, but it's still very useful! I have dialed in 3 other printers using this.

[@TH3DStudio]

If you aren't using a good quality PSU they will fail. We carry Meanwell Brand ones in our shop and to this day for the 6+ years we've been printing we haven't had a single Meanwell fail. If you need a new one for the S5 this is what will be a drop-in replacement that we carry: www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10-psu-replacement-upgrade-mean-well/

[@BreydonsRC]

@@TH3DStudio they are the OEM Creality psu's. The original one lasted 6 years. Then the thermistor inside the power supply fried (TH1 on the psu board). I replaced it with another Creality psu. It ran for about 6 months and fried that same thermistor again in the new psu. I just installed a new psu today, and it fried it within an hour. I have been told to check for a short somewhere in the printer, but I don't really know what I am looking for. Any idea what can cause that thermistor to pop?

[@TH3DStudio]

@@BreydonsRC those stock PSUs are not reliable. Meanwell is the best replacement for them. We had repeat failues with the stock PSUs which is why we dont use them. I'd check for shorts and put a Meanwell in there once you are sure there are no shorts in the wiring. Use a multimeter to test the resistance across the bed heater lines and your hotend lines. Stay away from the creality and no-name PSUs out there.

[@hankb7725]

I was able to boost the voltage on my 24 volt Tronxy printer. I've been experiencing layer shifting for quite some time. Hopefully it won't happen again. However I was not able to change the voltage of the xyz steppers. Very strange. I turned them either way and always got the same reading of about .4 which seems low according to what you said. Any thoughts? I did a small test print afterward and it was fine though. If you can explain why I was not able to change the voltage I would appreciate it.

[@TH3DStudio]

Changing the adjustment pot should show a change in the reading. Try moving them SLOW. They only have one turn in them until they go back to the start of the pot adjustment.

[@PaulBistrosch]

Wow, so easy...very good job, do you have tipps for the Ender 3 Pro? :)

[@wrxsubaru02]

I get all the same voltage on each potentiometer but when i move the axis, 2 of the motors are reading 18v and vibrating while the others are like 1.2v. Any idea whats going on with mine?

[@WoolaMartian]

I wish someone would make this exact video for the Ender 6 V4.3.1. I can't find these anywhere.

[@TH3DStudio]

The 4.3.1 should be the same as the 4.2.x with the TMC drivers www.th3dstudio.com/hc/product-information/3rd-party-control-boards/creality-boards/creality-v4-2-x-tmc-boards-recommended-vref/

[@momoslappy]

whats the benefit on the dual Z in series or parallel. I have a stock cr-10 and have a dual z kit coming so before I install I want to do it right. Im not sure how to go about wiring it in series. couldn't find any info. thanks for the vid man

[@thanhavictus]

Does it matter which negative your black end on the multimeter is screwed into?

[@TH3DStudio]

No. Any DC negative will work coming off the PSU.

[@rodsdaytona]

Real big help, as I'm about to change out stock motherboard on my CR-X to V2.2.

[@jefflove3049]

Great video on how to adjust voltage for the stepper motors.

[@alanartt3138]

Tim, Thanks for this very informative video, I have one question...on the CR-10S which has the dual sockets on the Motherboard, are they running in series or parallel and what should I expect to see as far as voltage goes?

[@TENIO30]

TH3D Studio for cr-10 s that brings dual Z what voltage do you recommend? What opposites 9.8?

[@3dmedicvince449]

Next time I see someone saying they're having issues I'll refer them to this video. Good information especially in a video for them to watch how to do it correctly.

[@MrElasky123]

Awesome vid, what should I set my ender 3 too. Thanks

[@TH3DStudio]

Depends on the board. Refer to the manufacturer documentation for your printer and board that you have in there for what VREF to set the drivers for each axis to.

[@eightdigitword]

will increasing the voltage output on a transformer not reduce the current it can supply? higher voltage = less current = bed heats slower?

[@TH3DStudio]

It will still output the same wattage total, but allow the heaters to pull more current. The 12V machines don't pull anywhere close to the max that the PSU can output.

[@luqmanhakiemsarry6180]

Hi my region is in Asia my PSU I have to turn it over 240v AC. How do I get the ampere readings for the A4988 driver?

[@ameer4ever]

I have cr10 mini which comes with 34mm stepper motors for the x and y. What's the ideal voltage for them? Thanks in advance

[@LockDots84]

If you're bumping up a 12V supply to ~13.5V what should the voltage be set to for a 24V supply?

[@TH3DStudio]

You can usually safely run about 25V on those. Don't go much higher.

[@LockDots84]

@@TH3DStudio Thanks Tim. What about the VREF voltages? All of mine on the creality silent board are about 1.2-1.3V in their stock state.

[@jness421]

What would be the settings for the CR-10s Pro please.

[@davey3765]

I believe their the same as the CR-10S (should be factory set perfectly) Z= 1.09 X & Y = .809 E= .809

[@cyberblade6669]

so my stepper motors are 10.4 volts how do I tune them to run on drv8825 drivers rumba motherboard

[@Filipcarmin]

It’s good for radio cb 13.8v ?

[@niklasgisselman]

Hi! I have a CR-X Pro with the new silent board (TMC2208 and sense resistor of 150mOhm). I get extruder misses and X misses. The Vref is set to 0.73 from factory for all axis, which I think is too low. It should be higher than the old board in my opinion. Does anyone know? I have asked creality tech support but they haven't replied to me. Thanks for a great tutorial!

[@TH3DStudio]

Turn it up by 0.1V and monitor the motor heat. Without getting technical if the motor is too hot to keep your hand on it without discomfort then you are OK. If the motor gets too warm to where you cannot keep your hand on it without it being uncomfortable then the VREF is too high. Those drivers are stuck in StealthChop mode which is not recommended by Trinamic for extruders. Since they slapped those drivers on a board designed for A4988s they run hot and you cannot pull them out of spreadcycle without doing surface mount soldering and complicated OTP to the driver to put it into spreadcycle mode.

[@niklasgisselman]

@@TH3DStudio Thanks! I got a response from Creality support the other day, and the settings on my board was incorrect from the factory. Here's what they should be: X:1.38-1.4V, Y:1.38-1.4V, Z:1.58-1.6V, E1:1.38-1.4V, E2:1.38-1.4V. The CR-X Pro silent TMC2208 boards has a 150mOhm sense resistor hence the rather high values compared to other boards.

[@R4ZI3L666]

does anyone know the recommended Vref voltages for ender 5 plus, board non silent V2.2 TMC 2225 ?

[@TH3DStudio]

Would be similar to the others. See here: support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/creality-v4-2-x-tmc-boards-recommended-vref/

[@murteza1286]

The v2.2 board which is being selled in th3dstudio.com has a note saying different vref values? It says X:0.8V, Y:0.9V, Z:1V, E:1V I guess we should use %90 of these: X:0.72, Y:0.81, Z:0.9, E:0.9

[@TH3DStudio]

The VREFs on the product page are the recommended ones. But slightly lower will still be OK for most machines. If you get step loss on an axis then you will want to increase the VREF for that axis that is getting the step loss.

[@TENIO30]

for cr-10 s that brings dual Z what voltage do you recommend? What opposites 9.8?

[@lifeisgood070]

1.1v to 0.970v (assuming parallel - default CR-10S)

[@skyrim4713]

What will cost your steper motors to get hot?

[@veldmaat]

Maybe a stupid question: when adjusting the Vref, do you have to connect the printer?

[@veldmaat]

TH3D Studio ok Thank you!

[@AlucardWoA]

I can't seem to see the reply you got, do you have to have the power connected when testing the vref?

[@d00m3dd00d]

You will want a load on the power supply close to what the printer will draw, especially for one of questionable Chinese origin. The power supply should supply a constant 12-14v (as noted, 12.5v-13.5v is a happy spot for the components) both with the machine idle and at full load. The entire purpose of the power supply is to hold an output voltage as steady as possible regardless of current draw + isolate the output from input voltage variations until current draw exceeds the rating of the power supply (remember Ohms law, power[watts] = current[amps] * voltage, or easily remembered as P=I*E). UL rated power supplies SHOULD be able to run without a load on them. If it plugs into your wall at home, you will want a UL label. This ensures the product was tested and meets quality requirements. Some power supplies can be damaged by running without a load. If you question a new power supply, you can use a 'dummy load' from automotive parts for a 12 to 24v system (I've seen some car parts take as high as 48v), a headlight is usually 35-90w and makes a decent load to test your PSU.. That being said, a new PSU can most likely be hooked up safely without it being out of range unless it is defective. Have a understanding of efficiency ratings and it will help answer some questions you may have en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus. For example, a Mean Well 350w power supply commonly found as a replacement on the CR-10 has an 83% rating, which isn't stellar but its probably better than most 12v supplies from China. They have good ripple isolation from the AC current. Once all adjustments in the video are complete, ensure voltage doesn't drop below 12v while the machine is operating. If it drops below 12v you may damage components over time depending on each components operating range. There will be the most fluctuation as the heated bed kicks on and off while it fills the circuit (the bed draws the most power). If it drops below 12v, your power supply is either faulty, has an inadequate power or efficiency rating for the requirements of the machine, or there is a hardware issue somewhere (shorting). A good way to keep an eye on this is building an automotive volt meter into your case. They're only a few dollars, many have USB ports as well,so you can power other devices like a Pi, webcam, LEDs, or whatever with it.

[@ConnerHall]

Ive been having consistent Y skipping problems and have not for the life of me been able to fix it. Ended up premptively replacing the motor with a similar one from Amazon. The review for the product said to change the vref from 7.whtever to 7. Testing the printer now, I hope to god this works. I tried tightening belts, wheels, grubs screws... At this point im put of options and it makes me sad :(

[@TH3DStudio]

Check here: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/y-layer-shifting-on-your-printer-most-common-on-machines-using-cura/

[@Declopse]

@@TH3DStudio Link doesn't work, dude

[@IMPRESIONES3DTU3D]

because in your comments under the video in no side you name the CR-10S, is it for another printer? or is it standard for creal with chip A4988?

[@joshmerritt5561]

Could this be what is causing my Ender 5 Plus extruder motor to move back and forth but not actually extrude?

[@TH3DStudio]

It's possible if its not set high enough. But more likely is that it could be a wiring issue or a bad stepper driver on the board.

[@waytooslow]

hmmm where does on find values for ender 3 - thnaks

[@TH3DStudio]

you can run the same just on Z run 0.7-0.8

[@trialnterror]

TH3D Studio what about the extruder VREF? (For Ender 3)

[@luxy7450]

@@trialnterror did you ever find this answer?

[@NuarStanger]

Tim, quick question. Do you have to have the control box connected to the stepper motors to adjust all the voltages? Or can I have the box simply connected to the outlet with all the wires hanging unconnected?

[@crazynanoman]

You need to enable the motors by jogging them slightly before taking readings.

[@masdemorf]

Great video. I will try it on my 3D printer. This might be the answer to my problems.

[@TH3DStudio]

If you still can't figure it out our Discord server is a great place to get help. Its at discord.th3dstudio.com

[@jorgeramos6392]

For a CR-10 what is adequate reading for the E, is .75 adequate as well

[@TH3DStudio]

0.8-0.9 is fine for the E.

[@MJ-iw8hi]

@@TH3DStudio I was thinking of seting it at 1.1 V for vref for the E. is it good?

[@scottfarrell1506]

A few questions: 1) Is the printer connected during this process? 2) How do I determine if my Z axis steppers are connected in serial or parallel? 3) Is there a preferred Z axis stepper connection? If so, how do I convert to that? Thank you for your time.

[@TH3DStudio]

1. No, not in our video but you can have the machine connected still. 2. Stock is parallel. 3. Series is less work on the driver but if the VREF is set higher then theres not a big difference at all.

[@scottfarrell1506]

Thank you for the help :)

[@BrunoOliveira-mv2pi]

Wich are the best vref for ender 3?

[@TH3DStudio]

0.8, 0.9, 0.8, 1.0

[@BrunoOliveira-mv2pi]

@@TH3DStudio thanks

[@l.shumkov7468]

@@TH3DStudio Hi, do you have the VREF for the silent board TMC2208 1.1.5 for the Ender 3 Pro ?

[@darylcjennings]

Thank you very much. Seems these should apply to a CR-10 Mini as the steppers are the same so I adjusted mine (was getting bad layer shifting on the Y Axis). Found they were stock at X(.597) Y(.595) Z(.589) and E(.757). Changed them to X(.725) Y(.897) Z(.724). Left E alone since I wasnt having any issues there. After doing so im 6 hours into printing a piece with no layer shifting on Y

[@neoc03]

Thanks for the video! This was incredibly useful information! I did this at the same time I was adding my resistor to the 2 and 5 pin to fix the temp issue. I have you guys to thank for that as well.

[@FunTechandMore]

neoc03 you mean a capacitor right?

[@TheKokomax]

This values should be the same with the V1.1.2 Board?

[@jakobvejle]

For allmost alle steppers drivers. but on the Cr-10 and Cr-10s not matter what Vx.x.x bord you mite have, just the same values

[@benomanyeggs3037]

Iam new for 3d printing ,my cr 10 smart pro x stepper motor is very hot and whenever it started to print my mains voltage is starting to blink but mains power is sufficient because Iam using stabilizer. could anyone help me plz

[@TH3DStudio]

Try lowering the VREF on the X driver. Too hot = too high of a VREF

[@benomanyeggs3037]

@@TH3DStudio Thank you, I wil try

[@FunTechandMore]

Does this require to adjust e steps afterwards?

[@jakobvejle]

No

[@charliedidio7421]

Thanks Tim I'll adjust mine right away.

[@holemajora598]

Hey buddy I found your video through Facebook and I’m happy I did!

[@holemajora598]

Also I just recently purchased the Creality Ender 4 Should my numbers be sitting about the same?

[@ronlan1984]

I get random Y layer shifts and if I switch the x and y cables the shift follows the cable can this still be a voltage issue

[@schelll3261]

That was SO helpful - thanks for the video!

[@dinosoarskill17]

Can this be changed in software?

[@TH3DStudio]

Not on these machines. Its physical.

[@dinosoarskill17]

@@TH3DStudio Thanks for response, also I was interested in upgrading to the newer style EZABL, what is the differences between the standard vs. pro probe? PS. thanks for sending lemonade nerds with my order. they're my favorite!

[@yugokarpov8531]

Thanks!!!

[@TH3DStudio]

Welcome!

[@stringfellowhawk4843]

Damn, this is a solid explanation. Thanks!! Do one for the Ender 3 pls!!

[@TH3DStudio]

Ender 3 is exactly the same except the PSU is 24V instead of 12V. The board is the same.

[@JasonRTBond]

@@TH3DStudio Would you suggest changing this as you did here or leave it at 24V?

[@Gunner0352]

my ender 3 prints and all behaviors are normal except neither the power supply test or the vref test return anything other than OL on 2 different meters.......

[@immortalgamerz5599]

You running DC ?

[@techsavvyhero]

Thanks for the detailed explanation

[@geek65535]

I"ve checked the reference voltages on my CR-10, and my E stepper was at about 0.75v, which should be normal--but there are times when I can see the extruder skip steps as if the hotend was blocked. I have replaced my hotend with a Titan/V6/Volcano combo, and still get the same problem (even with a 1.2mm nozzle and definitely no blockage). I'm starting to suspect the stepper driver itself is bad. Are there any definite signs that would indicate the driver is bad (besides the issue I'm seeing)? If it is bad, or if I just wanted to put better stepper drivers on my system, is it possible to add external drivers? Or would I just need to replace the Melzi board entirely? Thanks! Paul

[@geek65535]

TH3D Studio True. But I was mentioning the large nozzle to illustrate the fact that I definitely didn't have a blockage. I was having the same problem with the stock hot end, and I still have the problem with the Volcano and a 0.4mm nozzle.

[@lifeisgood070]

Why not increase the extruder motor voltage to 0.9v?

[@geek65535]

lifeisgood070 I ended up bumping up the PSU voltage from about 12v to about 13.5v. That had the same effect, but helps my bed heat faster, too.

[@lifeisgood070]

Yes it does heat much much faster. Probably about 30% less time maybe 50-60% less time. Extruder heating is also take less time.

[@simonkim3496]

Did you ever find a fix to your extruder motor skipping? My printer is having the exact same issues and I have no idea what is causing the problem. It's been driving me nuts!!!

[@Wandafuldesigns]

What should the vref values be if it's the 240v power supply?

[@adamw2737]

Did you find the answer?

[@michelefusco773]

this video is valid even if the printer is in Italy?

[@TH3DStudio]

Yes, this is on the DC voltage site. That is universal no matter where you are in the world.

[@michelefusco773]

@@TH3DStudio Thank you 😀

[@nc2010vettef55]

Thanks Tim, for another useful video. I will be checking my CR-10 soon.

[@plebetopro5786]

Black is "Common", not Ground. Also, on that cheap meter, "2000m" is 2 V or 2,000 millivolts.

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

So, dc current flows toward common? Why not ac too? All black is common. Got it.

[@rhythmriceisanalien5]

So do i have to have my printer plugged in to test this? Or should i definitely unplug it? I feel like that would have been important to say

[@Fpvfreaky]

Rhythm Rice you need put it to run through or you won’t get your readings. But like he says be careful.

[@JoseGarcia-pt1iw]

Excellent professor, great explanation, very useful. Thank you for your time.

[@tommywikstrom9100]

"these CAN kill you" -puts finger over screws and pulls lid down. 0.0! Danger Will Robinsson!

[@TH3DStudio]

If you touch them yes. :P I are professional.

[@CrashPCcz]

TH3D Studio Hey. Thanks for nice tutorial. During my upgrades (silencing) I readjusted my Creality CR-10 S4 steppers halfway down to your recommended values. The extruder motor was running really hot at 1150, and it also was hot on touch. So went down to 840, and should be fine. Now XYZ cube is being printed, and all seems to be ideal. For the safery, what you did was really close with opening that lid. You might consider being more safe even if you know what you´re doing. The most secure thing is to think about the work like IT IS NOT ROUTINE. Most fatal injuries from electricity come from routine work. I was close, touching a heatsink with 600VDC potential from the industrial power supply. From that time, I behave very differently. One should, especially when he has a family... Thumbs up, thank you, and stay safe.

[@ster9765]

@@n1337s diffrent is spelled differently

[@Alexcide007]

What type of death are we talking about here? Painful, slow burned to a crisp or a quick zap fall over type?

[@centraloregonhomepros4506]

lol

[@craigtaco9875]

my meter doesn't have a 2000m setting . it only has a 200m. ??

[@TH3DStudio]

See if it has a 2V setting

[@murteza1286]

Or 2.5V

[@3DHP]

Thanks Timothy,Great Video..Helps a lot..

[@cutty02]

I find that if you increase the psu voltage too much it introduces lots of noise into the circuit

[@dinosoarskill17]

I checked mine (which is one of the quiet 1.1.4 creality quiet boards) it was set to about 1.2v at all the axis

[@dinosoarskill17]

Thank you, by the way

[@itsadanthing5]

THANK YOU