Adjusting the Electric Choke Correctly on a Holley Carburetor

[@SmackeysGarage]

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[@billyhernandez7540]

Have a 600 Holly carb new.. for some reason after choke is cooled down choke plate stays Open halfway what can I do brother

[@grindsoul]

Thanks for this video. I have a Edelbrock carb but it seems to be the same procedure. I had an engine swap done in August, and the electric choke was probably set for those warmer temps. Now that its 30F here in NYC, the car stalls on start and I have to feather the pedal to keep her alive for what seems like forever. Hopefully by following your steps I can adjust my electric choke a notch or two over and get her to hold the fast idle again on these very cold days.

[@SmackeysGarage]

No problem DMAC of Queens. The steps are generally the same. I have to do mine twice a year, in the cold, and in the summer. It takes some time to get the adjustment right since you have to wait until the engine completely cools back down to try again. Let me know how it goes!

[@SmackeysGarage]

It worked? Glad to hear!

[@MatureMindedgamers]

Thank you, this helped me a ton.

[@SmackeysGarage]

Glad to hear!

[@johnbaxter85]

Thank you, great instruction. My engine takes about 8-10 hits to start!!, does that mean I should rotate the choke counter-clockwise???

[@SmackeysGarage]

Kind of depends. After you pump the gas, how does the choke look on the car? Is there a small gap?

[@MKOMKONNNN]

forgot the little cam that steps up the idle ? and how to use the choke properly like on a cold engine pump the pedal once and start don't pump the pedal till its warmed up

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Nice! Short video covering the important parts without all the rambling I tend to do in my videos. :) Your editing is getting better too. Multiple angles while keeping the dialog going as you explain.

[@SmackeysGarage]

Thanks! I've been trying different things and seeing how it works out. I enjoy the longer videos you do on your channel and I appreciate the feedback! This video felt like one that should be short and to the point for someone looking how to adjust the choke.

[@DS-bi3fz]

Hi - thanks for the topic! I think it would be really helpful to describe a few symptoms, because people can't actually see if the choke is coming off too soon or too late. I only know what I have to do to the gas pedal to keep a cold (35 degrees) engine running until it finally settles into curb idle. Example: I can can get the engine to fire, but immediately have to keep jabbing the gas pedal, so my choke is probably (which one) never completely shut? open before it should be??? isn't opening soon enough??? If I can hold the pedal to keep the idle high and smooth, but notice that after a few moments, the rpms slowly drop on their own and the engine dies unless I jab the pedal, my choke is probably open before it should be? isn't opening soon enough? I don't have the stove tubes connected, or the exhaust manifold riser connected to the air cleaner, so I'm going to switch to an electric choke cap for my Holley 735 4150 type. The car is a rebuilt classic that only sees cold temps the first few days after it comes out of winter storage in April.

[@SmackeysGarage]

Hey D S. You're right a good description of how to know to move the choke to come off earlier or later would make sense. I should have included that in this video, but I will be sure to include it if I do another on this topic! If you have to keep jabbing the throttle, you'll be adding more fuel, so the car would be running lean which would mean the choke has either come completely off or has come off too early. When you put your new Holley choke on, follow the instructions on how to set it up initially. I used a pencil to set the location of the choke plate originally but you could just as well put it in the center and then adjust as necessary. There should be lines on it you can line it up with.

[@DS-bi3fz]

@@SmackeysGarage hi - Here's an update to my comment based on info in a really good Hemmings article called "The Lost Art of Choke Adjustment." I connected a remote starter so I could watch what is going on. This is not info on what the specific adjustments are, this is just a different way to describe what each choke function does and when. Choke Event 1. Prior to turning the key, tap the gas pedal, which provides a squirt of gas and sets the only two parts of the choke adjustment that matter at this moment: the butterfly goes completely closed/no gap, and the throttle linkage catches on the high part of the fast idle cam. Turn the key. Engine should fire. If it doesn't, NONE of the other choke adjustments have anything to do with it. Choke Event 2. If the engine fires and starts, the engine vaccuum will immediately cause the choke pull off to crack the butterfly open a very small amount, overcoming the tension of the choke spring NO MATTER WHERE YOU HAVE SET THE CHOKE SPRING, as long as the butterfly was initially gapless. Engine should run at high idle. If it doesn't, the only things in play are the size of the pull off gap (approx 1/16-1/8") and the need to be at high-idle. Choke spring setting has nothing to do with it yet. #3 Now finally, the choke spring setting matters. At some point, the engine has to come off high idle to curb idle. This is the magical combination when engine warms and the butterfly opens in harmony. The moment you touch the gas pedal, even slightly, the throttle will slip off the high idle cam, and if your butterfly is too slow or too fast, the engine won't run perfectly. Now you are finally at the point of messing around with the choke spring adjustment to change how long it takes for the butterfly to open enough for curb idle. I am doing mine while it is 39 degress out, and I can have an actually cold carb...

[@roadrunningsquare6293]

I know this video old but I have a new Holly 750 and was confused why it was smoking from the choke adjuster and the truck ran terrible, I have everything else set correctly but when I went to adjust the choke everything went sideways

[@SmackeysGarage]

That's really weird. The Holley choke shouldn't have changed. It's a simple system. Bimetal wound coil that heats up and opens when electricity is attached. Sounds like your spring is shorted somehow internally. Would be worth taking the cover off and looking.

[@sevian3066]

I have a holley warrior on a Ford 302. On a cold start, it starts right up and idles at ~600 then after 30 seconds or so it starts to idle rough. Then after a couple minutes it goes up to the idle of ~900 until I am ready to drive and tap the gas to bring the idle back down. How would you suggest to fix the rough idle?

[@SmackeysGarage]

What’s it have for a choke on it? Almost sounds like it’s getting through a lot of fuel maybe from over pumping it before the high idle can clear it out.

[@dchvz4253]

If the cap needs to be adjusted to increase or decrease the time for the plate to open, is it done while the plate is in the normal open position or when it’s closed after throttle?

[@SmackeysGarage]

It shouldn't matter when you adjust it since it always resets when the heating element is ambient temperwture. For myself, I always do it while the engine is cold and choke is closed.

[@rosemcbirney5123]

After setting the choke I’ve run the engine and it opens fully when going cold does it start to shut but not fully until I press the accelerator I hope this makes sense

[@SmackeysGarage]

That does make sense. You push the accelerator once to set the choke fully closed on next startup. If i understand what you are saying correctly, that is also how mine works.

[@rosemcbirney5123]

@@SmackeysGarage cheers for that

[@ElAlskid]

good video , i have a different problem , its not when it opens / closes its that it closes all the way when i first hit throttle and that is to much choke to start it. I have to rotate cam so it pops open some before i start it

[@SmackeysGarage]

Hey did you ever figure it out? You might have to rotate the adjustment a little more.

[@ElAlskid]

@@SmackeysGarageYes , thank you that is just what I did was rotate it a little more

[@SmackeysGarage]

@ElAlskid ok great

[@jjcc868]

my choke plate is stuck open, wont open/close unless i open the throttle, sometimes the truck runs good even with choke open at all times. What is possible fix. Holley 600 electric choke

[@SmackeysGarage]

I’d do a check of the linkage to see if anything is bent. Is this an electric choke you added on or one that came on the carb?

[@jjcc868]

@@SmackeysGarage

[@jjcc868]

@@SmackeysGarage Yes i played with the linkage and it came loose and is workin fine thank you. Also when i start it up cold it will start to flood run rich unless i rev it up high and warm it up for a few minutes then it runs perfect other wise it will die, could this be a fast idle screw issue.

[@billyhernandez7540]

Have a new carburetor 600 holly for some reason when choke is cooled up choke plate stays Open halfway.. what can i do brother

[@SmackeysGarage]

Does it reset after you push on the gas pedal? It will typically stay open a bit (maybe 1/2") until you push on the throttle and it should drop to mostly closed. You have to reset the choke on the next start by pressing on the gas pedal.

[@billyhernandez7540]

@@SmackeysGarage yes it does sir.. I move little bit the electric choke clock wise cuz takes more that a little while to open completely

[@JonnyBlazeTCB]

My choke resets every time I start engine even when it's hot. How do i fix this?

[@SmackeysGarage]

Rev the car and the carb will come off choke. Or do as I did and go to a manual choke

[@unicornsteaks6769]

I have a 4160 on a 350 Chevy. I find that after the engine is warm the idle seems to creep back up. Like I drive 10 miles. When I get there the idle might be normal or it might still want to idle at 1500. Does that indicate the choke opening late (turn the choke to the right?) It cranks and runs great. Get's terrible mileage and smells rich at idle.

[@SmackeysGarage]

When did it start operating that way? If the idle is still high, it could be the high idle cam but it sounds like it is either the carburetor (not the choke) isn't tuned correctly or you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

[@PsychoSainten]

So im having an issue with my holley before this problem it ran like a top it starts and does what it supposed to do fine but one day i was at a red light and when it turned green and i hit the gas the choke engaged completely and the rpm jumped way up and i had to hit the cam idle lever back down for it to go back to normal it seems like its stuck but cant find whats causing it i adjusted it a couple notches lean and no difference. Its recieving 12 volts when key is in the on position and has been shy of a year on the rebuild the only thing i can think of is the coil went bad, there was a short, or the wiper motor that its connected to is inadequate in supplying power (even though i checked and its fine) the carb wont kick down from the last notch it seems on the cam lever when i blip the throttle it kicks up and gets stuck and holds the throttle there unless i hold the cam lever down with my finger. What changed?

[@SmackeysGarage]

It sounds like something has bound on the high idle linkage. Have you had the carb off recently? I’d also like you said, remove the black lid off the choke and make sure that thermal spring isn’t broken at all. It’s very weird. Keep me posted on what you find. I’ll look at my Holley this weekend and fiddle with it some to see what can cause this

[@PsychoSainten]

@@SmackeysGarage pulled the cap off it looks pretty mint coil looks good while it was off i decided to take a look at the copper rod that goes into the coil. i push it up the choke acuates i push it back down (some catching there) and it drops the arm thats connected to the throttle the pushes the cam arm goes back down but the cam arm stays unless i push it back with my finger however with the cap back on and it adjusted 2 notches lean (didnt sound too good while warming up) it would open a little more than it did but now when you blip throttle the arm thats connected to the throttle that pushes the cam arm up is stuck up unless i push it down with my finger like its directly related to eachother when its stuck up it holds the throttle from going back to its resting place. I took my testing light to the leads on the choke cap and found with the negative lead off the positive as still recieving power is that incorrect? It also has power when it is connected this is all while the key is in the on position. Now that i think about when you put the choke cap back on how much does the coil need to be coiled? It semms like its catching on the inside and if i were to coil it a little more maybe it can overcome that resistance im not sure i installed it back on the way it was when i removed it.

[@PsychoSainten]

@@SmackeysGarage id also like to add before removing the cap but just adjusting it didnt have any correlation to the choke flap like ive seen on holley videos where they would adjust it and you can see the flap moving too. This makes me velieve that its currently incorrect and could be an inssue but didnt present itself until a year later?

[@SmackeysGarage]

Sounds like you’ve made some progress. Having the choke plate not move when the electric choke moves doesn’t sound right. It also doesn’t sound right that the coil barely fits in. I never had issues with it binding when putting together. If you want me to remove mine and take some pictures send me an email that you can find in the about me section. When you have the negative wire off, and are measuring voltage across the coil with no ground I would expect there to be no voltage drop across it (reading 0).

[@SmackeysGarage]

If you send me an email I can send a video of mine comparing motion to yours.

[@blakenorman4822]

My choke is staying completley closed at first, doesnt it need to be cracked open at least a little to start? i should try rotating a notch clockwise too see if it helps? thanks

[@SmackeysGarage]

Is it a 2 or 4 barrel? If it is only covering 2 of the 4 barrels you could be ok. If it is completely cutting the air off on a 2 barrel, that would be a problem.

[@Herman-b4q]

The problem I have the red linkage won't drop down to disengage choke.

[@SmackeysGarage]

After you star the car the choke plate stays closed?

[@Herman-b4q]

@SmackeysGarage Yes I can't get it to idle down to 750ish rpm. Tried burping the peddle temp 170. But it won't drop that linkage or idle down. Choke is hooked to seliond pole closest to power out. If shut off, it has run on. Unless it's in gear. But if I manually move that linkage.

[@davidcimei3476]

Sir good morning I’m having issues achieving high idle on my Holley 750. I pump the pedal twice turned key waited key on wait about 30 seconds truck starts good then stalls out right, I’m guessing that flap is closed all the way. Need help please

[@SmackeysGarage]

If it is running for 30 seconds I'm guessing the choke is opening too fast, or your fast idle could be too low. If the choke was staying closed, I wouldn't expect it to start and stay running since the primaries would be completely cut off.

[@davidcimei3476]

Tomorrow morning I’m going to do a counterclockwise adjustment on the choke and I’ll see what it does

[@davidcimei3476]

My fast idle set about 1600 rpm and I smack the throttle and drops to approximately 850 so I believe that is dialed in

[@SmackeysGarage]

@@davidcimei3476 Cool. Let me know how you make it. Might be worth starting it with the hood open and air cleaner off to see what is actually happening to the choke blade.

[@davidcimei3476]

@@SmackeysGarage I set my high idle for a warm temperature start and went to 1600 with the choke plate fully opened and hit throttle and went to my curb idle speed of 850. This morning it was sluggish starting with a fully cold engine my question is when I rotate that choke plate do I need to hit the pedal before I rotate the choke cap

[@dickeymoore3662]

How long should the choke run before you pat the gas and knock it off on a cold start?

[@SmackeysGarage]

It really depends on the vehicle. A choke should stay on until the engine comes up to temperature enough so that the fuel is atomizing enough to keep the car running and not need the air choked off. An aluminum block 5.0 will take significantly less time than my iron blocked FE. I typically run it to ~160* and then take it off.

[@dickeymoore3662]

@@SmackeysGarage ok Thanks

[@250rtrxjunkie]

Nice video. Are all chokes the same? I'm going to purchase one, tx👍🏻

[@SmackeysGarage]

They are mostly similar. I'd stick with the Holley one on the Holley carb. The non-Holley one that is available doesn't have good marking to understand what position it is in. It operates the same, but is a slight bit harder to setup.

[@250rtrxjunkie]

@@SmackeysGarage 😊 Thanks

[@SmackeysGarage]

@@250rtrxjunkie No Problem!

[@DJCris301]

So if I’m having trouble starting up and idling I turn it counter clock wise?

[@SmackeysGarage]

Are you having trouble getting it to kick over at all or is it starting and then dying after a few seconds?

[@DJCris301]

@@SmackeysGarage starting then dying after a few seconds won’t hold a idle

[@SmackeysGarage]

Sounds like the choke is coming off to fast. I’ll have to look physically at my car tomorrow but I believe you want to rotate it so the choke stays on longerto get you to fast idle.

[@DJCris301]

@@SmackeysGarage okay awesome sound good, I noticed the choke flap (no sure what it’s actually called the thing the flaps open and close) was open part way isn’t it supposed to be fully closed? Also I noticed my choke is rotated all the way clockwise. Isn’t that not okay?

[@DJCris301]

@@SmackeysGarage got it idling now time to re seal the front diff