Aermacchi Engine Mods // Paul Brodie's Shop

[@ptz0n]

You're looking happier and stronger every week. Great to see that you're doing better. Always a pleasure to watch your work. Best from Sweden.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Erik. I still have Big Chemo (one day..) and stem cell transplant coming up..

[@slideman.]

"loosing a case!" ....That's good machinist humor ! great video with great details , Thanks!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Vlad. Hope to see you in the springtime!

[@mcjok88]

Thoroughly enjoyed watching you fool around. Solving problems.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes I do like to fool around and solve problems. Thanks for watching!

[@bobbyclobber9725]

Did you ever hear of a CMA racer from the 60's named Hanje ? He raced a 350 arremacchi with artificial legs ...every race was push start from the grid and I was amazed that he managed.

[@paulbrodie]

I have never heard of a racer named Hanje. That is truly amazing that he could race with artificial legs...

[@fordfan3179]

I watch A LOT of engine rebuilding stuff. I rode a couple Aeromachi bikes back in the 70s. Your attention to detail and expertise really makes your channel fun to watch.

[@hartmutschubert7355]

There is a guy that makes this primary gears living 5 miles away from me. He has a one man company where he produces small Brass parts with 50 year old automation machines. Those old 'pre cnc' automation milling machines are very interesting stuff.

[@opieshomeshop]

I've always used copper coat spray on gaskets because it goes on thin and doesn't squish and it seals really well. When you need to take it apart, it comes right off with the gasket and generally IF there is any cleanup, a rag with some brake clean or alcohol cleans it up really good. When I used to race my 70 and half camaro, we were always going through several sets of valve cover gaskets on a weekend and that bill added up fast so when we started copper coating, we could take the valve cover gaskets off between races and reuse them because the copper coat would seal up so good and we could go 3 months before needing to replace the gaskets. The gaskets always came off in one piece with no damage and went back on and seal again and again and again. We used it on exhaust gaskets and then ended all the issues with those and we used it lightly on head gaskets and never had a leak or issue. Trans pan gaskts, rear dif gasket. The only place it never worked was the carb gasket. The gas would dispel the copper coat and then the gasket would leak. We realized the carb gaskets were made to absorb the gas and they swell up to form a seal and the copper coat would prevent that swelling because it blocked the Absorbtion of the gas. The copper coat is tacky so it will hold when assembling components.

[@paulbrodie]

Sounds like good stuff. I did buy some several years ago. I wonder where I put it?

[@burningcoppergarage]

The outside the box thinking and sorta brute force solution of cutting the spacer for the clutch basket/gear and just tig welding it in place is exactly the kind of tricks and tips I followed your channel to learn. Glad to see you’re doing well and still working on the bikes! ❤

[@Paul-FrancisB]

Good morning Paul and Mitch from the UK 😁 time for a coffee ☕

[@paulbrodie]

Good Morning Paul. Yes, coffee sounds good!

[@jessicamosleyshewman9641]

First thing I bought with my very first check runn8ng a jack hammer when i was 15 years old.was some proflo clip on a crtt replica tail piece and a glass front fender from moto italia. I was 6 year's old when we started fixing the 65H. We got it running and I got to ride it 30 year's later. I don't talk to my dad anymore. This makes me feel like my dad and I are in the shop working on the sprint again.

[@paulbrodie]

That's too bad you don't talk to your Dad anymore...

[@retromechanicalengineer]

Thanks for bringing us this festival of Italian loveliness. You are truly talented Paul and it's a pleasure to watch you work. You are looking well and that is a real blessing. Shout out to Mitch for getting the camera shots too. Best wishes, Dean.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Dean. Very nice comments...

[@kevinjohnston4512]

Remember always think positive. Love watching this channel.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Kevin!

[@tristanbuckoke9121]

I love watching you work and your thought process. I'm so happy your are back to posting content. Your looking great mate. Take care

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Tristan...

[@matthewsmith6486]

It's like watching Michelangelo chiseling out a beautiful woman from a block of granite! Genius!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Matthew. Very kind!

[@matthewsmith6486]

@@paulbrodie Thank you!

[@throttledavidson1241]

How great to see you back at it!Your shaper than you tungsten in a whole different level. Thank you sir for your wisdom and passion of the good almighty 2 wheeler.Regards Gentlemen!Miller Time.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you very much!

[@GodfathersAdventures]

Looking and sounding better everyday. !!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Michael....

[@garysmith9772]

Truly a world-class machinist/mechanic. I can’t say I’ve ever seen another man with these skills. Thanks Gary

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Gary. Very kind!

[@petersain5666]

Dude you getting better like wine. On point

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Peter :)

[@tryphontournesol427]

Who needs vice grip when you have tape grip :) Nice job!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you!

[@GreggMax]

@@paulbrodie Yes that is a tiny example of the little tips that appear in your videos almost by chance. I (we) see them and absorb them. That's why I watch all your videos, even if I'm not terribly interested in the purported subject (I'm not a mountain biker but I watched all your bicycle videos!). I cannot thank you enough, and the presentation by Mitch is lightyears ahead of most "how to" youtube efforts.

[@paulbrodie]

@@GreggMax Thank you Gregg. Appreciate your comments. Mitch and I do make a good team!

[@tomfortson5147]

Wow Paul, you are truly amazing! I so appreciate watching you think through these problems, and develop elegant solutions. So nice!!!!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Tom. Appreciate your comments!

[@philipcoupland8521]

Paul, thank you for the video. I had a similar problem with the clutch hub nut on a Honda dry clutch conversion that I made. My solution was to turn down some of the face of the nut, leaving part of it as a sort of threaded sleeve, that fitted into a recess bored in the hub. Obviously a compromise but I felt it was better to have the full length of thread engaged.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Philip. I think I can machine a little off the inside of the outer clutch basket and that will allow me to thread the nut down further. Always learning!

[@lucaalbers]

great to see you doing better, me and my dad love to see you work at your shop. Best wishes from The Netherlands, Luca.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Luca. Greetings to The Netherlands!

[@raynyhus2026]

Nice to see you in the shop again. Take care and heal up.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Ray.

[@raynyhus2026]

@paul brodie were both in the cancer recovery stages. I'm healing up from Myxofibro sarcoma, the drs cut out my lower bicep and 3 months of radiation. Now were starting on the Multiple Myeloma in my blood attacking my bone marrow. I'm lucky in that we caught them early and will defeat it.

[@paulbrodie]

@@raynyhus2026 Ray, good luck in your recovery too.

[@stephenwilliams926]

The metric boys and girls are scratching their heads with all this imperial talk lol. Nice vid.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Stephen :)

[@georgestewart1325]

Feeling the tension during the setting up of the boring tool makes for good watching. Fantastic channel. Thanks for sharing Paul.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you George! 😊

[@nightster6378]

Its great to watch these engineering/motorcycle videos with you working to perfection figuring out how to solve the problems you encounter, they are a pleasure to watch. As some have said you're definately looking brighter and healthier even though you will be having more treatment soon. Thank you.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for watching!

[@pari_pari]

Nice to see you back at work. It is as relaxing and inspiring as a massage. Best regards from Germany

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Olaf. Greetings to Germany! 😉

[@robertholcomb6200]

Mitch and Paul...Paul and Mitch! What a perfect pair to bring us all this information! Thank you both for sharing! Can't wait for the next video.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Robert! Next video is scheduled for filming very soon... Engine assembly :)

[@caesarillion]

I got lost on the seal. It didn't have one originally or it's land was way too small for reliability? Great show. Thanks Paul.

[@paulbrodie]

If we are talking about the oil seal for the camshaft.... The original bearings and seal fit a 15mm camshaft. I replaced it with a 17mm camshaft, so the bearing and seal had to be replaced. The 17mm seal had a larger OD so the side case had to be modified to fit... Make sense?

[@antonisplat]

Dear Paul, thank you very much for continuing the videos with Aermacchi's engine. As soon as you finish, I will start assembling my own engine. Be well!

[@paulbrodie]

Very good, our next video planned is engine assembly!

[@jiyushugi1085]

Nice work. Nothing like aftermarket parts to teach you how much thought and engineering went into the original bits.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks! 👍

[@ludditeneaderthal]

I love watching the "Brodie maniacal math" of your custom work Paul. Top shelf quality, both your assembly, and the Mitch and Paul video effort. So glad to see you looking both happy and healthy as you whip the machine into compliance with your vision! Keep it up, I'm hoping for a few decades more of seeing you work, lol

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you very much. Appreciate your comments.

[@alexdieudonne1924]

Looking much better Paul.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Alex. Yes, the motor is looking good!

[@tiffinthyme5822]

Hello Paul, great to see you setting up the engine, a real game of patience. Even better to see you looking so very well. Keep up the the good work! Thank you Kevin.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Kevin.Yes, Aermacchi race motors never go together fast when so many details have to be checked. Appreciate your comments!

[@yodasbff3395]

Another interesting video. 👍 If I remember right, 50 years ago when I put the cases together, I used a pipe, a plate, and a bolt screwed into the in of the crankshaft to pull the cases together. Although you did sand down the crankshaft, I always feared messing up the flywheel alignment by hammering it on the way you did.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, if I "hammered" the cases together it could affect the alignment of the flywheels. However, those were gentle taps on a piece of wood, so no worries! Thanks for watching!

[@mikey7278]

Amazing stuff Paul! (and great filming Mitch). Your looking and sounding a lot better man 👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Mikey! Doing my best...

[@federext]

I just flight yesterday from buenos aires to Madrid watching downloaded PB's video! my best flight so far

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Fede!

[@digschopper9321]

I held my breath as you fixed the bearing bore. Whew!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, a nail biter! (for me too!)

[@rayfisher2160]

Bodie you are cool 😊, I would like some vice soft jaws like you. What is the Guage Brass you use? Thank you for responding to your fan base, other producers don't bother.

[@paulbrodie]

Hi Ray, well that did take me a while, but here I am responding. Thanks for watching! My brass soft jaws are 1/8" thick.. Hope this helps......

[@d6c10k4]

If it's thick enough I'd consider machining a little recess in the clutch drum so you have room for the lock washer and also get the nut a little farther down on the threads.

[@paulbrodie]

I will think about that. Thanks.

[@paulbrodie]

I think machining a recess will work very well. Thanks for your suggestion!

[@garethdavies3220]

Hi Paul, could you not remove the shim washer you made then add another plain clutch plate in the basket ? .Effectivly this would lower the basket , regain the threads lost but correct the engagement on the inner drive splines . Just a suggestion , I may have misunderstood the set up. Any way always facinating to follow your videos , I wish you well in your treatment and recovery.

[@paulbrodie]

@@garethdavies3220 Thanks Gareth. Someone else also suggested an extra clutch plate. That means running two friction plates together. Somehow I don't think that's a good idea.. But thanks for your suggestion!

[@criticalmass181]

As always, great video. The old bikes are a challenge, all the way. I recall some of the 'compromises' I used to do were absolutely insane....but I was young, and the Gods of speed were on my side, apparently. On a bright note...I finally have an excavation for my shed slab! I'm not going to try to fool myself that that's the end of my woes, but here's hoping!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Marty. Building a shop is a lot of work... All the Best!

[@frederickbowdler8169]

Fantastic patience and skills___ really enjoyed the video.Remember watching these being raced in the UK in late sixties .

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Frederick...

[@bake162]

Well done lads

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you!

[@bjarneolesen8949]

Hello Paul. Wonderful to see you back in the shop. And you look better and stronger. 👍💪 Good luck with your treatment. All the best from Denmark 🇩🇰

[@paulbrodie]

Hello Denmark. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@philmuskett265]

Brilliant, mate. I never fail to marvel at your knowledge and patience. A true gentleman.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Phil!

[@kellymcteer5076]

Thank you Paul and Mitch. I fun sidetrack into retro Italian single cylinders.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Kelly :)

[@brentpaul5173]

Great Presentation - the joys of building a race motor from a road motor - I am doing the same (Aermacchi 350) and appreciate the guided tour!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Brent. Assembly is next....

[@grumpymealey2441]

Great to see you back in the shop doing well

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Grumpy.

[@richardgoodwin8968]

Superb content as always Paul, Your a very clever guy and you make clear explanations. Top quality work.👌

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Richard!

[@Manandmachine772]

You are Looking Good Paul, enjoying the Italian bike tutorial. Very informative on these engines and your expertise is appreciated.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Carl.

[@Paddington60]

I have noticed several time when things are reassembled and assisted with some form of knocking stick the note changes as the fit nears where it is going in a similar fashion to a tap filling a bottle with a liquid. Wood or metal, the change in note seems to work the same. Thank you Paul and Mitch!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, the rate of vibration does change! Thanks for watching and commenting...

[@derekgee8504]

What a beautiful piece of machinery. Assembly is so precise thank you Paul

[@kiiiisu]

agreed!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Derek.

[@salvadorsepulveda6415]

A Man of detail. Continued prayers for Healing 🙏

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Salvador...

[@Peter57808]

There is another way to achieve the clutch spacer. Yamaha part 24-6591 (starter gear retention hardware) The design could be scaled up to suit your application and allow adjustment via different thicknesses of the half-moon spacers. Just my thoughts!

[@1crazypj]

Is that an XV (or 'STAR' for the 'new' ones) part number? I knew I had seen split spacers somewhere but couldn't remember where

[@Peter57808]

@@1crazypj for the old XS650, part is a reproduction supplied by Geoff's XS in Australia or Mikes XS in the US

[@1crazypj]

@@Peter57808 I've got three XS650's, (although only one is still a 650, the others are 800 cc) that must be where I saw it

[@kevinmcmanis7335]

YAAAAAAH! New Video!! Thanks Paul!!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Kevin.

[@nickd698]

Great stuff Paul. Thanks heaps!

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Nick.

[@stanvess1848]

Paul as for the clutch hub nut. is potable ta mill the clutch hub out just enough for the nut ta fit flush with top of the spindle shaft to use the washer. looks ta mee there is enough material to do that. I built my first bike back in the early 60's as a teenager.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for the info. I think that Spellcheck has been having some fun with you.... I got the clutch hub nut issue figured out, and you will see my solution in our upcoming video. Engine assembly!

[@davidsnyder2000]

Regarding your response Paul to @Eric….my thoughts and prayers are with you Paul🙏 I so look forward to seeing you again in another teaching video. Much love and respect Paul❤️🙏🙂 Get well soon! And thanks to Mitch for all the awesome filming 👍😊

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks David. I am working on getting back to health and more videos...

[@Vikingman2024]

Wonderful video! I have bell alerts for many youtube sites, but your's is the one I always look for and go to first!! great job, plus you're looking great! I noticed that the crankcases don't need to be threaded as the crankcase bolts just go all the way through both sides with a stainless nylock nut on the other side, so you don't have to worry about stripping out the threads in the soft aluminum and fixing them with keenserts or Heli-Coil . Nice! Of course the locating pins hold the crankcases in the correct position. It looked like the second locating pin you tapped in went easier than the first, or am I just seeing things....lol. You said the clutch gear is German made, it looks like an aerospace gear with it's thin web and holes to lighten it that I saw at Lucas Western Gear plant near Park City (now called Triumph Gear), Utah many years ago. They made gears for the aerospace industry, fascinating! I bet it was expensive and it looks like it weighs maybe 40% of the original!! Thanks Paul!!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you William. Yes, the second dowel pin did tap in a little easier. Good eyes! All the 5 straight cut gears are German made. Very nice quality! They are not cheap, and now they are no longer available...

[@Troy-k7p]

Love the videos,I have a few,sure wish you could rebuild my 73 with your up grades. I have a 70 motor not sure if it’s a250 or 350, how can you tell.and keep making videos I learn something new every time

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you. If it is a 1970 motor, the serial number would end with H0, and it would be a 350. The last 250 was made in 1968... OK, we will keep making videos...

[@framolon3708]

Great! Here you are!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, I never truly disappear!

[@MegaTubescreamer]

Enjoyed it !! hell yes 😉😇 loved it, thanks dynamic duo, this is an oasis of sanity at the present time paul & mitch "keep on keepin on"guys,👍👍👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks William. Nice comments!

[@jonofalltradesmasterofnone832]

I’m in bed at 23:30 watching this tired but captivated, only word to describe this is, genius. Good to see you getting better and stronger. Quick question does the clutch nut spin to tighten or loosen?

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for watching. Not sure I understand your question. Does the clutch nut "spin"? It turns freely, but doesn't "spin". Partly due to the splines being a part of the thread, I suppose. You want the threads to be a close fit; this helps to prevent it from loosening.

[@jonsoons]

Have you considered reversing the order of the clutch plates so that the bottom plate meshes with the outer drum?

[@paulbrodie]

I have not considered reversing the order of the clutch plates. The clutch actually works very well, so I don't see a need to re-invent it. Thanks for watching.

[@jonsoons]

That would have solved your problem of the plate at the back of the clutch.

[@framolon3708]

Never stop to show us your great skills!

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Fra...

[@karlalton3170]

At least you saved the Case Paul and no mess ups 😂😂 great job buddy 😁😁🤘🤘

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Karl. I hate losing a case...

[@ccbproductsmulti-bendaustr3200]

It is a pleasure to watch you at work 👏👏👌 Cheers Chris

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Chris. Yes, I am having fun in my shop!

[@sarkisbenliyan1180]

Dear Mr. Brodie. This was a complex episode, at least for me. Thanks for that. I hope u are doing better. You certainly look stronger. Thanks for this week's entry! And I am looking forward for the next episode.

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Sarkis. Yes, there was a lot going on in that episode. The motor goes together next..

[@sidecarbod1441]

24:30 The bearing went in nicely but you could have warmed the casing up, it makes fitting bearings even easier.

[@paulbrodie]

Warming the case up might have destroyed the epoxy holding in the aluminum insert, so that would not be a good idea...

[@sidecarbod1441]

@@paulbrodie Ah, you are absolutely right!

[@WaxMeister]

Tres complicated Paul - twisted my brain - it's a multi-layered Italian sandwich.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, when I was younger and inexperienced, I might not have been able to figure this out.

[@Steven-rd3qn]

Many thanks from Germany 👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Germany!

[@slicedbread9003]

You finally used that Boyar-Schultz surface grinder. I'm amazed at how accurate such a simple machine like that can be. That Aeromacchi case is beefy.

[@paulbrodie]

Yes I did. One day I will get the coolant system working. And then I will figure out the automatic feed. At least I will never run out of projects to do. Thanks for watching...

[@slicedbread9003]

@@paulbrodie For the amount of usage that the surface grinder gets, you probably don't need to worry about coolant. I have thought about using a PLC and three stepper motors to turn our B&S surface grinder into CNC without going all CNC. But we don't use it enough to justify such a expenditure. Fun stuff to think about thought. Keep up the great work. I look forward to each now video you put out.

[@paulbrodie]

@@slicedbread9003 Thank you. Yes, I have had the surface grinder for 10 years, but don't use it much at all. The coolant system might even work for all I know!

[@williamemerson1799]

You're a mad man Paul Brodie!👍🍻

[@paulbrodie]

Yes but I am having such fun!

[@01thomasss]

Hi Paul Regarding the camshaft and the bearing and the seal and all that: I would have had the camshaft journal ground down from 17mm to 15mm and then you could have just used the correct seal and bearing time and time again. regards and get well soon!

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, that is another solution that could have worked. Thanks.

[@gusrichmond5969]

As usual, top quality content and top quality videography. Good to see you both back at it and Paul, looking and sounding much better! I'm still confused by the need for the welded shim and the consequence of not being able to engage the lock nut fully on the clutch shaft, requiring you to omit the locking washer. Would it not be better to put a shim on the back side of the internal spline/gear to raise the whole assembly? I'm unsure if it will misalign the gear mesh with the drive gear, but I have noted it is a lot thinner than the standard helical gear it replaced potentially leaving room for it to be moved? Cheers, Gus.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Gus. First, the clutch gear needs to be shimmed for correct endplay. This partially sets the height of the outer clutch hub. Next, the inner washer (2mm..) sets the height for the inner clutch hub. This is where I found I need to raise the outer clutch hub 2.5mm (.100") to get the correct engagement of the inner clutch plate with the inner splines, hence the 2 piece welded spacer. This affected the engagement of the clutch nut, but, I have solved that in our upcoming video! Hope this all made sense. It is not easy solving all the problems when building a race motor with parts from different countries.

[@dwaynecoomber6610]

love watching your content Paul keep up the awesome work. 👌 👏 👍 from Dwayne in South Africa.

[@paulbrodie]

Hello South Africa! Thanks Dwayne..

[@MarcSasso]

Hello Paul, Close by in New Westminster. Looking good, nice to see you back at work, however you left me wondering on your choice of case closure fasteners. Do those nylock nuts have a temp rating, please? I have heat softened some on past auto and motorcycle projects and wouldn't want to see your cases separate after a few laps. Thanks, Marc

[@paulbrodie]

Hi Marc, I used those nylons on my race bikes and never had an issue. I don't think the cases get hot enough to affect the nylon. But, thanks for wondering!

[@MarcSasso]

@@paulbrodie Thanks for your reply Paul. Google says "For most motorcycles, an operational temperature range of 155F / 68C to 220F / 104C is normal. " and "Nyloc nuts retain their locking ability up to 250 °F (121 °C)" for Nylon nuts. Your motor, however I would stick to all metal fasteners and safety wire on a race motor.

[@MarcSasso]

And when you get a free moment you should come out to the Burnaby Velodrome some evening, at 68, it is the only place my crew and I do any racing these days!

[@paulbrodie]

@@MarcSasso Google is probably talking about the cylinder head and barrel temperatures. I don't think the crankcase gets that hot. I raced an Aermacchi for 5 seasons and never had an issue with the nylocs...

[@1crazypj]

After machining hundreds (thousands?) of bearing housings and knowing just how tight the tolerances are, trying to match the exact same diameter is just about impossible so machining just the lower section was a good call. As for the clutch hub, the nut isn't hardened so staking it into one of the splines may be a good idea? BTW, I've always referred to the parts as hub and basket or outer and inner drums (some service manuals also call them drive and driven drums)

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks for commenting. I did find a solution for the clutch hub nut.... Next episode!

[@2Upon2Wheels]

Love the video's. Why not surface grind the nut the thickness of the lock washer? Just a thought.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Jonathon. The lock washer is 1mm, or .040". I could machine the nut that amount, but I found a better solution... Next video!

[@TL243]

Awesome.

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks.

[@m12345678963]

Could you do a talk on different bike frame materials. Why would you want a steel frame or an aluminum frame carbon fiber frame.

[@paulbrodie]

I will consider it. Thanks.

[@bryanwhitton1784]

Just curious, where does one get pistons, rings and rods for Sprints. Also, why the shorter rod? It causes more side thrust from the piston to the cylinder walls but I guess has some benefits as well. I'm just not sure of what they are.

[@paulbrodie]

For my race motors I ordered a box of 4 pistons from JE Pistons in the USA. They come with wrist pins and circlips. Rods come from Carillo. A shorter rod means I can move the motor forward towards the front tire, for better weight distribution. Yes, there is more side thrust on the cylinder walls, but it seems to make no difference to the longevity of the motor. Thanks for commenting....

[@bryanwhitton1784]

@@paulbrodie Thank you for answering my questions. That gives me hope. I hope you don't find my questions annoying. Did you have to rebalance your flywheels for the new pistons that look lighter and rods that look lighter as well?

[@bryanwhitton1784]

@@paulbrodie BTW, I just finished your video where you made the heat sink for your ignition system. I was looking for part 3 of that series. I absolutely love your Aermacchi series.

[@paulbrodie]

Bryan, you are welcome. I did not rebalance my flywheels. Engine works just fine with the lighter parts...

[@djfaber]

With the clutch basket nut, it's only holding it in situ with very little loading right? Why not use your surface grinder to take it down to the right level and then use the proper locking washer, avoiding the need for locktite?

[@paulbrodie]

I found an even better solution.... next video!

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

Who makes that Dry Clutch kit? When you buy the one for a Ducati Single (I think NOVA makes it), you typically have to buy a longer transmission shaft for this exact reason, the stock shaft is too short, and cant be assembled!!!!

[@paulbrodie]

The Dry Clutch kit is stock from the 73/74 motors. All the 350 motors from 69-74 had dry clutches. No need to buy a longer shaft.

[@EmsillCazm]

Hi Paul & Mitch, Another great video 👍 Just an idea on the nut & locking washer in the Clutch Hub, is there enough room on the outer hub next to the shaft to drill tiny indentation, Then you could drill and tap the nut to take an appropriate size grub screw, The grub screw can then be held into nut with blue Loctite, you could even tap two grub screw’s into the nut adjacent to each other, Hope this makes sense 🤪🤪🤪 difficult to see how much room you actually have by watching the video also is it feasible to drill two tiny little indentations in the outer clutch hub….. Mark

[@paulbrodie]

Thanks Mark, the clutch hub is hardened steel (that's partly why it has such a ring to it...) so it would be hard to drill and tap very small threads...

[@EmsillCazm]

@@paulbrodie Hi Paul I was thinking that the hub only needs a tiny indentation which could be done with a pointed die grinder bit, It was the nut that I was thinking that you could drill & tap to take a grub screw

[@paulbrodie]

@@EmsillCazm Thanks. I think I will put my faith in red Loctite...

[@EmsillCazm]

@@paulbrodie ….. i’m no engineer on the scale of yourself but just out of interest do you think that would have worked ?

[@paulbrodie]

@@EmsillCazm It's hard to say. The lock nut does not have a lot of mass, so when you drill and tap into it, it will be weakened. I did measure the wall thickness at the back of the clutch hub. It's not super thick, but I could skim a little bit off... Not enough to get full engagement of the lock nut, but better. Mark, it's not a perfect world!

[@joepeanut6827]

Would machinating the nut down a little thinner, make it work better so it catches all the threads, or would it make it weaker ?? ND taking a punch and dinging the top thread after the nut is torqued would help to keep the nut from backing off..

[@paulbrodie]

You really do want the maximum number of threads for secure engagement. Making the nut thinner is not helping. I have found a good solution, however. Next video!

[@johnpublic168]

nice looking rod what make Carrillo??

[@paulbrodie]

Yes, Carrillo :)

[@BigGums17]

I was wondering if you could talk about dial indicators in a video? I'm after buying my first one so mid price range ideally. Are there any brands you recommend? I tried looking for the brand used in this video but it wasn't available in the UK. Do you know of any that are globally accessable you recommend? Also help on understanding the different values and general tips on using them would be appreciated. Thanks

[@paulbrodie]

Dial indicators. Do I consider myself an expert? Not really. The one I use mostly I purchased when I was 17... 51 years ago. I recommend you buy quality, not based on price. If you do, it should last you the rest of your life. Brands that come to mind are Mititoyo, Starrett. Get a set of extensions. I have two lengths, inch and 2 inches, I think. They are very handy. Handle your dial indicator with care, never drop it! Thanks for watching...

[@BigGums17]

@@paulbrodie both seem to be available here in the UK 👍 I'll also look for extensions. Thank you

[@paulbrodie]

@@BigGums17 You're welcome!

[@sidneysnottley6414]

Educated and entertained - Many Thanks.👍

[@paulbrodie]

Thank you Sidney!

[@vernonland5987]

How did you cut the tig welded washer to get it off the shaft?

[@paulbrodie]

I spaced it up with 1/8" flat bar, and then hit the weld with a small, sharp chisel... it worked!

[@Metal-Possum]

I guessing cutting the spacer and welding it back together is easier than machining the splines into it so it'll fit over in one piece?

[@paulbrodie]

Alex, you are correct!

[@fepatton]

Is the need for that big clutch washer/spacer caused by mismatched parts (e.g. race vs. stock), or something else? I’m still confused why there was such a big gap. Thanks!

[@paulbrodie]

It is a bit of a mystery to me as well. It's been years since I assembled a stock motor, and I didn't have to make a custom washer. But what the difference is I cannot explain right now.

[@jdsstegman]

I have had to build so many engines from a box and I hate how no book or parts diagrams ever call out the thickness of shims and ow washers!! And customers wonder why it takes so long. Just like you, you have to guess or calculate end play and make sure everything is correct or it will not work, or wear out fast.

[@andreadavide]

That engine is looking better than when they made it in Varese.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

Is there enough materiel to allow you to machine a recess in the clutch basket to allow the washer & nut to further engage the threads?

[@paulbrodie]

Good thinking! Next video you will see :)

[@Andrew_Fernie]

@@paulbrodie Looking forward to it.

[@JustinG1962]

You’re making me worry now Paul wondering what I missed putting mine together all those years ago.

[@paulbrodie]

Not my intention to have you worry. If your motor is all stock, you probably did fine. Mine is a mix and match special with parts from various sources, so that's why I am doing extra work.

[@dcarter001]

A bit unnerving taking metal out , worked out as you predicted. Thanks

[@PatFarrellKTM]

Did you use your patented Aermacchi XRay vision to see inside the case to figure out what was keeping it from closing?

[@paulbrodie]

Well, sort of. The cam gear was too thick...

[@johnmartin6050]

Couldn't you have put an extra clutch plate in at the bottom that has the teeth on the outside, Therefore moving the first cluctch plate with the teeth on the inside further up inside the clutch basket?

[@paulbrodie]

You mean have 2 friction plates running against each other? I don't think that is proper. Not what the manual shows. I think I have it figured out. Thanks.

[@TanBoiIndustries]

LETS GOOOO NEW VIDEO WAHOOOOO

[@paulbrodie]

You're pretty excited!

[@TanBoiIndustries]

@@paulbrodie you cant really blame me for it though can you haha!