Aftermarket Power Supply Install For Carrera or H.O.

[@DASSlotCarBox]

I just pulled the trigger on a second power supply for my Carrera track so will definitely be following this tutorial soon. Thank you for sharing. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺

[@slotvalleyracing]

If you bought this exact unit, there is no reason to put the fuse in the line. This unit has a fuse already built in but if you are like me you can never be to careful. 😉

[@SCALE_SLOTCARS_AND_RC]

Super educational post for those who need to know how to do it . Nicely explained 👌 😊

[@slotvalleyracing]

Thank you Harry🙂

[@PNWSlotcarDad]

Great job on showing your wire and flux. Not a lot of people out there know what to get. Happy racing 🏎️

[@slotvalleyracing]

Thanks!

[@edbad9345]

Thanks so much Dan!!!! I've known that I need to do this for a while! My track is grossly under powered! Great Job! 👍👍👍

[@slotvalleyracing]

Happy to help Ed. Thanks for watching

[@clinttalbot9093]

Nice tech video- good job Dan!

[@slotvalleyracing]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@IrrerasCarrera]

Good tutorial Dan. Nice job!!

[@slotvalleyracing]

Thanks Joe!

[@Johnbscv]

Just a heads up, the bench power supply has a maximum output current of 10 A, which is supposed to be sustained. It should not have a problem delivering 10A continuously. You do not need a fuse on the DC side for the power supply. This particular power supply also has built-in over-current protection (OCP). You can set CV (constant voltage) to your desired max voltage, and CC (constant current) to your desired max current (up to 10A for the 3010 model you've got there), and it should automatically keep between constant voltage and constant current depending on the load.

[@slotvalleyracing]

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it

[@Johnbscv]

@@slotvalleyracing Happy to help! Thanks for the video! Regarding fuses for slot car tracks though: putting a smaller fuse per lane - something like 2-3A - wouldn't necessarily be a bad idea if you know for a fact that a single lane should never need to pull more than that specific amount of current, even during transients (short burst of current, could be a fraction of a second). It's not really to protect you or the power supply, but to protect the rest of your track in case of a short that might pull up-to the set current limit of your power supply. In other words, you might want your entire track set across all lanes to be able to pull 7.5A - or whatever you set the max current limit to - but you wouldn't want any one single lane to pull 7.5A (not to mention 10A!). Happy driving!

[@slotvalleyracing]

Cheers!

[@sonofsega816]

Very cool, how many amps do you usually run them with?

[@slotvalleyracing]

I run it at the same 14.8V Carrera calls for, so far!

[@Clearwater124]

12 volts Dan for those Revo's I believe.

[@slotvalleyracing]

Gonna set that up today Greg, thanks Brother

[@ted.slotcardaddy]

Nice Dan, I’ve been using solder and seal connectors myself. It’s just easier for butt connections. Let’s chat sometime

[@slotvalleyracing]

Sounds like A good idea!

[@GST_Racing]

What is the advantage to going to VPS?

[@slotvalleyracing]

Your power to the track will never drop because of too much draw for multicars and cleaner power.

[@slotvalleyracing]

Plus you can set the voltage!

[@mcburton68]

Thanks for the info.

[@BSslotcars]

Nice supply, You may want to look into your powerbase my policar powerbase had resetting fuses and I bypassed them and ran a fuse in line with each controller because those resetting fuses cut off when you use the lower wind faster motor cars my policar track worked much better when I bypassed them suckas!

[@slotvalleyracing]

I'll check it out. Thanks Steve

[@BSslotcars]

@@slotvalleyracing Dan search the web for self resetting fuses they look like little tan wafers my powerbase had them to bypass you can solder the ends together.