AFV Club 1/35th scale workable T80E1 Pershing / Patton tank track tutorial / review

A Tutorial video on Assembling the AFC Club 1/35th scale T80E1 Pershing / Patton tank workable track links set. In this video I describe how I assemble and install the these tracks to a Dragon M46 Patton tank.
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Painting a weathering techniques are shown here,
• 1/6th scale Armorpax M...
Model showcase video on the M46 Patton kit used in this video,
• 1/35th scale vintage D...
Link to the R model metal workable tracks mentioned in the video, www.aliexpress.us/item/325680...
More pictures of this build are found here,
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[@madmike8072]

I would always cringe when coming across Afv Club workable tracks. I’ll give your build techniques a try. Great paint work ! Thx John.

[@EdBert]

I just got a similar set from AFV-C, my 1st try using their stuff. My kit is for a ~1943 "Nashorn" but essentially the same thing, maybe a little easier per link, but requires glue!!!! It is a frightening prospect to open up the bag, see so many tiny bits, and then realize that is one track, as in "of two". Oh well, too hot outside anyway right?

[@Mauscmkwk]

You should do the hobby boss t29 the tracks are”nice”

[@oddball759mm]

I will since I have that kit in the stash

[@kenfu_tech6844]

I would like to see you do a review on godhand spn 120 nippers on thoes track link nubs.

[@oddball759mm]

that looks like an interesting tool to check out, thanks for the info

[@kenfu_tech6844]

Great vids I would buy from a good gunpla web-sight plenty of fakes. I also heard Tamyia 123 are good. They are fragile I don’t drop. Or cut the thick part of runner

[@oddball759mm]

that's a bit of a problem as I tend to drop my tools alot. I would need to make a wrist band or something

[@kenfu_tech6844]

Same here Your creative make lanyard that snaps on then start selling it, I’d buy one I always worry about dropping a tool and find it lodged in my leg or foot. I would like to see you build a Bandai master grade gundam kit and do your weathering and battle damage to it. The engineering designing and dye’s of the kits amaze me

[@kenfu_tech6844]

Started watching your videos to try and learn how to weather in battle damage I want to repaint my Heng long abrams tank

[@TestECull]

0:55 That is actually a dealbreaker for me. Or, at least, it was when I built 35th armor. I would only buy a kit using them if I could also buy a set of Friulmodel tracks to actually put on it. These days I'm more in the 16th RC section, and not exactly going historically accurate either. Doin up a Heng Long KV-1E as if the NCR of Fallout fame plucked one out of an armor museum and got it operating again.

[@oddball759mm]

Frulis are awesome and I have used / recommended them in the past. The problem with them is that they are expensive and I want to showcase other lower cost alternatives that are on the market, which as you can see from the end result in this video the AFV club tracks do the job just fine and are a good alternative to the frulis

[@TestECull]

@@oddball759mm They are expensive, yeah. Usually cost as much as, if not more than, the tank they're going on. But they're what I usually went to, in part because they were easy to slam together, in part because they sag better on vehicles that have noticeable track sag, and in part because I tended to keep an eye towards RC conversions which would very rapidly wear plastic workable tracks to shreds if not outright snapping them. These AFV Club tracks are fine for most modellers, I'll grant, as most aren't keeping an eye out for possible RC conversions.

[@oddball759mm]

@@TestECull yeah for motorization / RC use fruli all day long. In that case they are well worth the investment 100%. For static builds though it's not as important and you can save some money on the plastic version

[@TestECull]

@@oddball759mm Mmhm. Bit more of a challenge to get the correct sag on WW2 German slack track stuff, T-34s, KV and IS series tanks with plastic workables, but not impossible. I did convert Trumpeter's KV-2 to RC using Friul tracks. I'd strip the Tamiya 70097 gearbox out before those tracks even THOUGHT about coming off, breaking, snapping, wearing, twisting. Strong as. And on my 1/16 Heng Long tanks I never even consider the cheaper Upgrade versions because they've got plastic tracks that won't hold up all that well outdoors.

[@oddball759mm]

yes the metal links by their nature give you great track snag, but as you mentioned the plastic ones will still give you the same look with a little extra technique. On the HL funny we both have the same idea but we go about it on opposite paths. I Always start with the plastic version as the metal upgraded one charges you more for parts that are inferior and will need to be replaced with the Aftermarket ones. The Metal upgraded zinc glass jaw gearbox will strip after an hour or so of runtime and the metal tracks that are supplied have inferior detailing on them, like open section on the inside and lack of rubber pads on the outside of the M1 or Challenger II track, plus will snap after some running. My philosophy is to get the plastic one since it's cheaper, and this allows your budget to upgrade with the steel gearboxes and better tracks as aftermarket parts for the same price and sometimes lower than the "metal upgraded" zinc ones and in the end will give you a better runner compared to the other version

[@henryharvey6609]

So how is this any different from using the original plastic tracks?

[@oddball759mm]

they time better around the sprocket, are able to bend around the wheels naturally, the tension is easier to set, easier to paint / weather are still easier to build and assemble and when done they don't look like shit

[@stevejoyce3151]

Too bad the assembly part was lost..that is key. As for painting. the bottom of the track is all rubber in the chevron..no metal also the center guides should be shiny as they rub between the road wheels. I was an old M60a1 crew man and the tracks were almost identical to the Pershing/M46 tracks.

[@oddball759mm]

you are mistaken, that is not the case with this pattern of track. You are getting confused with the T84E1 track, where that pattern had the outer section molded in rubber like on your M60, this pattern is indeed steel. You can see a real example of this track at this link the.shadock.free.fr/sherman_minutia/tracks/T80_1.jpg and you can clearly see that the composition of the exterior is steel, not rubber as I mentioned in this video.

[@stevejoyce3151]

@@oddball759mm I stand corrected😔

[@oddball759mm]

it's all good bro

[@joeokabayashi8669]

Great try, but having lost the original video, this video becomes a bit of disjointed logic to follow. I would have been helpful to show the assembly process, but perhaps that was in the lost video. Maybe you could try again.

[@oddball759mm]

The part that was lost on the faulty memory stick was exactly the segment that you mentioned and showed the complete assembly. Luckily I have another build on the way that uses a similar track and I'll make another review video on that one when the time comes. with any luck the files won't get corrupted