Air Conditioning a Camper Van can be cheap and easy.

Roof top air-conditioners have a lot of problems. Trying to cool freon on the roof of a van just doesn't make sense. Mini-Splits are expensive and difficult to mount on vans without blocking a back door. This inexpensive window air-conditioner vented through the floor will run on alternator while driving, shore power at camp, and on battery when boon docking. In this video I show you how I routed the fresh air and warm exhaust without modifying the air-conditioner or any special tools. This keeps the coils out of the hot sunshine and flows cool air from the shaded area under the van, over the cooling coils of the air-conditioner, and back out the bottom of the van.
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[@mattolsson8816]

As a note.. All that plywood is going to get moldy, it already is I noticed.. I had that happen to my first install in my Container. I will be using painted wood to keep from molding and then insulate the box to keep cold/hot air from touching any wood parts and to isolate from the inside of the truck/Van.. Thanks for the video.

[@FloridaVanMan]

I wanted to seal it all. I settled for sealing everything that will get wet. If it were used daily, or even frequently, I might be more concerned about moisture soaking in. It is intended for occasional use.

[@chrisdevalcourt648]

I'd use pressure treated plywood and also place screens over the openings under the van to keep out bugs and critters.

[@save2rave61]

Why not use sheet metal over the wood. Even maybe metal tape it all up

[@aaronp4990]

yes^ quick hit of mold killing primer

[@PatrickPrice-ny2ie]

I kida did the same thing only I used a stainless steel food warmer pan with a flexible drain hose going off that 1 foot off the ground. I also have a 6" inline duct fan to move air out. I used the 1/4" square metal screen at bottom to keep critters out. Im strictly LP now so I do the LP generator thing. If the generator or ac unit goes out I'll just buy another one. 3 years on same equipment so far. Im a retired electrician & could've easily done the solar thing but chose not to. LP & maintenance runs at $350 a month & generator runs pretty much 16 hour's a day. Again if it blows up I'll just buy another one, I don't care. Great video!

[@KyleBaker]

I had dismissed A/C in a van build, but this is brilliant. I'd love to hear some more details on performance--how cold it keeps it on a hot day, how the humidity out there in FL affects it, considerations for using it with solar and your battery setup / how long it can last on battery, how loud/quiet it is outside the van while running, etc.

[@FloridaVanMan]

This a/c is in 2Blue that now belongs to a friend in Washington State. He doesn't use a/c as much as I do in Florida. The Blue Saloon has a similar a/c that will run 6-8 hours while I sleep, depending on weather. It has 400aHr LiFePo4 battery charged by alternator and shore power, and it will keep the van interior in the mid 70's. It definitely helps to cover the windshield and all other glass with insulation of some kind.

[@LeopoldoManuelRamirezMena]

ahhh... just what I need for my stealth camper van! :D thanks for the idea!

[@billstewart3980]

Bill, I think floor venting and AC systems like these are the way to go. I have seen folks pay thousands for the 12v nautical AC systems or have the far too big roof mounted RV type systems. I have holes in floor for AC like yours and also separate floor holes for regular air flow instead of the typical roof vent. Zero holes in my roof. I have the 5000 BTU Frigidare, cools off the short box Sprinter in no time. When not on shore power I run it off one of the all-in-one units from MPP Solar and it does just fine on an 800 watt inverter.

[@Senior62]

I’d like to ask some questions of you. I’m doing a sprinter with 5000 btu

[@diaperdood1]

How long can it run without shore power?

[@tradmanmike3360]

GREAT IDEA! I DO SEE TWO SMALL FIXABLE ISSUES WITH THIS. SPIDERS, MICE AND WATER DRIPPING ON LEAF SPRINGS. HOPEFUL IT WORKS FOR YOU!

[@peachkopp1352]

Thanks for the pointers. I'm considering doing this and being a retired metal fabricator I'm going to use aluminum and stainless. Freeze on 👍

[@FloridaVanMan]

nice! Will you put Kill-mat or similar sound deadening on the metal panels?

[@cliffhilton89]

I installed a "No Idle" 12 volt AC on the left rear door. Both outdoor unit and indoor unit are screwed to it. The length of hoses are routed through the door. I also have 7.5KW of LIPO batteries. The install required about 2 hours; start to finish. My cost was $500. Just the AC, not batteries.

[@a1ananda]

can you do a video about this? it’s about to be so hot 😅

[@joshanderson1019]

Whenever I feel bad about work I do, I just watch van lifers hack a window air unit in their vans.

[@grahambate3384]

I had window unit in my house many years ago. It had a metal pipe at the back where the water would drop out. God when the compressor started it wake the dead Lol

[@glamptribe]

You're a genius! Thank you!

[@isaiahlopez8381]

I did projects like these on buses, nice work!

[@stevet4564]

Great videos.. very helpful. .. I envy your ability to document the process so efficiently and effectively... I've done a few upgrades to a few vans I've had and the exit holes can be a bitch. If I can at the exit holy on the floor I make a plate with mounts for six or eight holes with mounts to attach 2-4" rubber hoses 6-8" long. that I just fasten with hose clamps..it's underneath, hidable and easily replaceable. Just forwarding along an idea that's worked for me to keep out more of the crap a road can kick up .. Peace. PS.. screening on the plate you make keeps the squirrels out ..I'm sure you're probably already pretty well versed in rodent wars.. Take care

[@DougPVlogs]

My wife wants me to put an air conditioner on our old VW Kombi van to keep us cool as we travel vlog in Mexico. Got to study this idea more.

[@FloridaVanMan]

I'm about to make another video as I install another with lessons learned from experience.

[@Robert-qn7bs]

Yeah nice job 👍 I was thinking maybe some sort of wire mesh on the two bottom holes to prevent mice and other critters insects from crawling in.

[@FloridaVanMan]

I think wire screen was added before this van left us. I've built several of these floor vented a/c units and in full disclosure one of them did not work very well. I think the air space behind the warm coils was too thin, trying to bend the airflow down and out in a space too small. The one in this video works very well and I used it while working in the van, finishing the interior build.

[@traveltimewithtim3512]

Gave me a few ideas for a window unit in my cargo trailer. Living in Florida a A/C is a must! I’ll probably do something similar but I definitely wanna close off those holes when not in use. Also a screen wouldn’t be a bad idea.

[@CheekyMonkey1776]

It would be more ideal to push the hot air up instead of down. Given the construction I doubt if the extra work is worth it however

[@FloridaVanMan]

More important than the work of installing, the loss of invisibility with a large chimney top or vent, lost space in the van, and the possibility of rain leaks.

[@cfoster8706]

LOOKING GREAT!👍

[@cafe88racer53]

i would add some metal screen to keep the rodents out lol

[@FloridaVanMan]

Will do. I actually already have the screens, just not installed yet. Good tip and I'm pleased to know we are thinking along the same path.

[@et2525]

Air Conditioning a Camper Van can be cheap and easy.

[@oliverlloyd8762]

Well that's pretty clever but I'm wondering why not just Mount the air conditioner face up with one square hole through the bottom of the van? That way it would function as if it were in the window. Maybe even better because the back of the air conditioner will always be in the shade and dripping condensation straight out the bottom on the hot coil making the AC more efficient.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Air conditioners need to be right side up to operate properly. The oil in the compressor and condensation in the evaporator pan need to settle to the proper "bottom".

[@ingram4u2]

A funnel and a hose would probably be better. Just a thought.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Humid air transfers heat away from the coils much faster than dry air, so I want to give every opportunity for the condensation to evaporate. My next version will include some carefully chosen sponge or cloth to catch the condensation near the air intake maximizing this humidity effect as well as taking maximum advantage of "evaporative cooling" the air that is just about to cross the condenser coils. This dripping condensation is also very cold water so catching it near the air intake with a large sponge will use this byproduct of cooling three different ways before it is expelled onto the ground. Every calorie counts when cooling a tin can with windows in direct sunshine.

[@marcospena7Brasil]

Forcing air down? That's interesting for an effluent.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Life is full of compromises. Exhaust heat up would be ideal but I didn't want to build a chimney and feel the fan is adequate to push heat down this short channel.

[@kevinjudy5739]

Best A/C hookup I've ever seen...new subscriber...what would you charge to do mine in a build?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Every van is different, but we are probably looking at 8-10 hours labor and under $300 in parts.

[@SHOT_GUNNER]

I just purchased a really nice dodge conversion van (to live in 3 days a week) while on assignment. Any tips for a brand new van owner on the most economical way to get power and AC going when the van is t running? Thanks much. -Aston

[@FloridaVanMan]

Honda 2200i generator and window mounted a/c is the best* and easiest. We can hide the equipment a few ways if needed.

[@clifflovelace4430]

😂 essay craziest thing you’ve ever seen

[@trevorlane8123]

I tried this in my van and the amount of heat it produced was unbearable. I tried venting through floor and the side wall both were ineffective. Had to mount it in the window :/

[@FloridaVanMan]

It is imperative that the back and sides are two separate air channels for the fan to force air over the coils and OUT beneath the van. If the two channels are not fully isolated hot air is recirculated over the coils again and again. All the heat from the coils must be forced out without leaking into the van or recirculating. We also need adequate room at the rear of the A/C for the air to make a comfortable curve after passing the coils. A wall too close will restrict the air more than I expected. A lot more!

[@chrisdevalcourt648]

And so much easier!

[@dirgesinthedark5637]

Wouldnt it be easier to do an AC that vents like a dryer?

[@RyanGr33n]

Yes. 😂

[@johnthompsonnunu2556]

Puts some wire mesh over the openings so no mice get up in there.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Indeed, I believe that was done before this van left us for the west coast.

[@johnthompsonnunu2556]

@@FloridaVanMan thanks for replying.

[@nolansmith7923]

I wanna try this but thinking about using something like a rubberized pool paint inside. Any thoughts?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Rubberized pool paint has only been problems for me. Elastomeric roof coating may be a better choice. I've not tried it with this application but seems like a good idea.

[@eksine]

I'm gonna use this as reference but there's a guy who posted AC for his crooked house boat and he has a video showing how he converts his window AC to a mini split, so the window AC is mounted under the van. I think that would make it quieter and has more airflow for the AC. those AGM could be swapped out for lifep04 too, they aren't expensive any more, well not super expensive

[@FloridaVanMan]

I think I know that guy! He was a professional HVAC guy in Orlando that had access to different freon we can get at auto parts stores and tools not available at common sources. Window units use different freon and don't have refill ports. The plumbing has to be cut open and refitted so it takes some special skill and tools. The original freon should also be captured so that isn't a DIY effort for most of us. I applaud his work and only wish I could do it like that.

[@eksine]

@@FloridaVanMan that sounds about right yeah he did retrofit a fitting on there so he can recharge it. Yeah you could try to capture it I'm not sure how but I'm pretty sure all he did was he cut it off and then he sweated on the fitting and mended the other pipe like that I'm pretty sure all he used was propane or map gas or whatever it's called. It should be doable by the average guy. I mean I've never done it but it looks like something that I could do. I mean what's the worst I could happen right?

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@eksine I'm not sure if you meant that as a joke but I got a good chuckle. DIY sweating pipes on a propane cooling system, what could go wrong? Ha! I mean sure, we know not to try to fix a leak by sweating a bit more lead on there as soon as it stops leaking, right? What about the poor departed soul who didn't think about that? I shouldn't laugh, but Darwinism is funny at this late hour!

[@eksine]

@@FloridaVanMan I meant most people aren't going to try to capture the gas, they would just cut the pipe, let the gas escape, and solder a new joint to it to for recharging afterwards, it shouldn't be dangerous. maybe you could pay someone to suck out the gas first, but with no gas in there soldering shouldnt be dangerous

[@gijane1996]

how come you don't intake cooler air from inside the van to use for the ac, and simply just vent the hot air out of the van. wouldn't cooler air be more efficient to use than hot air from outside?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Outside air is pulled over the outside condenser coils and returned outside. If we pull cooled air over the condenser coils and blow that outside, all that air will be replaced by pulling outside air into the van through dash vents, door seals and other air leaks. This is how portable a/c units work with only one exhaust tube going to a window. It does make the unit blow colder, but the constant draw of outside air into the van completely defeats that advantage.

[@nate.leal.]

Isn’t it weird that no company markets an aftermarket ventilation for a window ac mod?

[@FloridaVanMan]

It would not be difficult to make an efficient window unit into a good portable* a/c. When we are not constrained by efforts to build it for "one size fits all" we can make the hose size more appropriate than off the shelf portables.

[@sanmarcoexplorer2726]

It’s nice to be handy. i'm looking for someone who i can hire to install AC in my semi truck if you interested,roughly the price whit all labor and materials please,location?

[@jmcimba]

Very creative, however I just can't believe that you won't eventually have mildew and mold issues inside that contraption. There's going to be SO MUCH condensation building up, and it doesn't seem like you can easily monitor it or clean it. I'd just rather keep it simple, and put the window AC in the window. Or bit the bullet and get a real RV/ van AC

[@FloridaVanMan]

"A real RV/van AC" on the roof will not work as well. Why do you think this will mold more than any other AC? The condensation never hits wood or cloth, and drains to the ground. I've installed 6 units similar to this and none of them have mold issues so far (3 years in).

[@HoneyBerighthere-Saysarath]

Can you collect the AC water for drinking?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I wouldn't. While the water pulled from humidity will be clean, it collects on the condenser coils and they are NOT clean. When new the coils will have oil and solvent on them from the manufacturing process and by the time that has washed away the coils will be collecting dirt from the air being pushed through them.

[@jcardosa02]

hey can u link the air conditioner for us?

[@FloridaVanMan]

This is the one I used: amzn.to/3fgf7Dw

[@DaveOTG]

What was the automatic switch thing you have called or if you have a link that would be most helpful. Ty!

[@FloridaVanMan]

Do you mean the transfer switch that goes between inverter and shore power automatically? Wiring it is a not quite obvious because we need to jumper the outputs on the bottom of the switch. If you have any questions, I can help. amzn.to/3OUjFhh

[@lm-relaxingnaturein4k104]

will it be better to put a small fan on the fresh air hole to force the air from outside to go up straight in the ac?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I tried this on my first floor mounted version. It did not help at all. The air flow from just the built-in fan is very adequate.

[@doraexplora9046]

@@FloridaVanMan What about an air filter?

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@doraexplora9046 The window a/c unit has an air filter on the front air intake.

[@sheri4673]

@@FloridaVanMan I know nothing about such things so this may be a really silly question, but, I would think that one would want to draw air from inside the van and cool it down and return it to the van, rather than sucking the hot air from outside. Can you explain why it isn't set up that way? I'm working on my conversion right now and must make a decsion on how to install my AC; your solution looks doable - especially the low cost! Thank you for the video!

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@sheri4673 You are correct, the air that is cooled and sent into the room should, and in this case does come from the room and get returned to the room. Both of those vents, in & out are on the front of the a/c unit. The ducted air is brought from the outside, over the hot coils that usually hang outside the window, and that air is returned to outside without mingling with the inside-air.

[@gregg9135]

Love your channel, thanks for doing it. How much distance do you need between the back of the ac unit and the back of the cabinet? What area (sq inches) is needed for the exit in the floor for the hot air? Thanks

[@FloridaVanMan]

I'm not sure about all that. I know one of the units I made did NOT have enough space behind it and would only cool about 20 minutes then started heating the van. I didn't get to fix it, though I think he pulled the unit forward into the room and modified the divider to accommodate more space behind.

[@paulstephens9274]

Very creative solution. Was considering a Coleman Mach 8000 avail for only $200 but your set up seems much more practical for my 04 GMC Savana hitop. Perhaps getting a small 7000-8000BTU a/c like yours the way to go. About ready to get a 1000 -1500W Solar Generator. Space is a consideration on roof bc planning a 18”x 24” roof hatch, already have Maxair fan front center and want small deck so perhaps just one 200+ w panel Thoughts ?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Rooftops are a horrible place to "Cool" freon. If the freon doesn't cool the room doesn't cool. Compressing it only gets up to about 140 degrees and the roof of our van can be 170, so efficiency goes completely down the drain.

[@vzmichael]

Any thoughts on using the insulated material AC folks build ductwork (not sure what it is called) and plenums with for the cabinetry?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I don't think it is very durable but I've not really looked at it other than when I crawl over it in the attic very carefully.

[@thanatoskatakrima5864]

Is that rhino liner 🦏 on your van? It looks cool 😎 Thanks for the tip 👍

[@FloridaVanMan]

Raptor bed liner. We did this blue van and a purple one. I plan to paint one with white Raptor next.

[@thanatoskatakrima5864]

@@FloridaVanMan cool 😎 Thanks! I’ve been wanting to do the same 👌

[@MrWalbudri]

Hi there .. for the air inlet and rather than depending on incoming air, would it be better to dmploy some sort of a 12v DC fan which could suck fresh air inwards ?? To be honest I'm not too clear how this air-conditioner is working..is it AC or DC powered air-conditioner?? Is it an off the shelf which I can order? I'm not too sure how your aurcinditiober is setup I must be missing something obvious Regards

[@FloridaVanMan]

The air conditioner is off the shelf window unit, ac powered by an inverter. The inverter and everything draws up to 50 amps from the 12volt battery system. A forced duct fan can help if the existing fan is not enough to adequately cool the outdoor* condenser coils. The fan built in the air conditioner has been sufficient in this build. The next one we built after this we made a mistake of too small of a box behind the condenser which restricted air flow dramatically. Forced duct fans were added.

[@ajayvk53]

Sir can we use the ac while driving

[@FloridaVanMan]

I do. My current alternator charging does not keep up, so I draw up to 10amps off my house battery. Before I replaced the alternator it kept up and charged the battery with a few amps, despite the a/c drawing up to 55amps. New alternator is the same 200amp rating but cheap brand and my charging system is original factory option from 2005. Time to upgrade with something more compatible to LiFePo4.

[@captainbrian4243]

Do you have any feedback on the performance of these units? Trying to plan my ac system for south Florida 50% hooked up 50% off grid weekend warrior

[@FloridaVanMan]

Mine works great almost 5 years installed. I made the air channels too tight behind the condenser on some others, and those didn't work nearly as well. Give 4 inches behind the a/c unit for the air to blow through before changing directions in the exhaust vent.

[@antigroundhogday]

Does it matter which side of the air conditioner you are supplying the fresh air to pass over the fan? It appears you have air coming over the right side, but what if the way the fan is spinning it is trying to pull it in from the left?

[@FloridaVanMan]

As long as outside air is getting into the center of the box, it's good. The "outside" fan always pushes front to back. If the a/c were hanging out a window as intended, it would pull air from both sides and the top, through the fan and be pushed through the warm coils on the back side. The interior air fan will often be different, perhaps pushing left or right, but since we expose the face of the unit just like it would be in a window, the designed chilled airflow is not hindered.

[@BarbrajoanOriginals]

I could use your help installing a unit like this . I have it, and it’s got a vent to outside. I need help with getting power to it. Batteries? I can’t seem to send you an email. I’m in Florida and would travel to you.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Hi Barbra Joan. I'm near Daytona/Orlando and my contact info is available through Patreon membership. I'm happy to help build a similar air conditioner box, but you will need to be a member first. floridavanman.com/donate/

[@chip582002]

I've thought about something similar, but you had some better ideas and frankly, I thought the incoming air was from the front of the ac, but it makes sense that it would need both. So how's it working? great video by the way.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Works great. This van is in Washington now, so the a/c doesn't get as much use as some of them I have built. We have several videos on similar set-up a/c.

[@BarbrajoanOriginals]

@@FloridaVanMan I need help with this same issue.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@BarbrajoanOriginals What issue?

[@RyanGr33n]

Wow. You built a mold factory.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Good guess, but you are entirely wrong. Did you skip past the part where I waterproofed? After a full year of service in the Pacific Northwest there is no problem. This wasn't my fist like it. Check out my solar van videos for another one to criticize. :O)

[@12vLife]

Been thinking about something like this in the same spot, but I noticed your van exhaust pipe right there.

[@patrioticmisinformation7184]

how did this hold up?

[@FloridaVanMan]

A few I built like this held up well. This one worked OK until the day it survived a roll-over crash test at 70mph. The van did not survive but thankfully the a/c did not come loose and hurt anyone. Occupants walked away from crash.

[@angelaereed314]

Hi. New viewer here. I'm about to go out ft in Mt car to start and go from there. I'm still unsure about the battery with inverter hookup and would like enough power to run ac or heat indefinite amounts of time for comfort. Do you have a simplified way for me understand exactly how that works?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Short answer, it doesn't work. Running a/c on a solar system small enough to keep on your van requires a balancing act. We have a whole list of videos on solar powering a/c on a van. The coal was have the van as safe as any apartment to leave my dog at home. Maintaining 74 degrees inside the van was too much for a carefully designed, efficient system that fully covered the van with 1200watts of solar. A constant 76 degrees was maintainable through a Florida August with daily rain showers, but left nothing for any other power demands. Heat on solar electric is way too demanding. Get a cheap diesel heater.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Check our Playlists for Solar Vans

[@tommybyrne5745]

Hi florida mann , Tom here in Ireland what brand is the ac unit , thanks

[@FloridaVanMan]

This one is Frigidaire or GE, I think. The market is very competitive and most 5000btu units are pretty much the same. Avoid any with remote control or lighted displays as these will draw power when not running and loose their mind when frequently without power.

[@ExpeditingAmerica]

What about rodents/animals/insects? How does it do with that ?

[@FloridaVanMan]

A screen was added to the bottom holes before anything moved in.

[@ExpeditingAmerica]

@@FloridaVanMan makes sense. Figured as much. Just didn’t see it. Was waiting for it. Idk why lol

[@HoneyBerighthere-Saysarath]

Dang. How big is your van power unit. I'm sure it sucks it up within 2 hrs of run time.

[@FloridaVanMan]

The 400Ah LiFePo4 battery will run this a/c 8 hours. Fully recharging that battery takes a lot longer.

[@eddieb8615]

@@FloridaVanMan can you put links to your batteries and other electronics you showed?

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@eddieb8615 Links are impossible to keep up with. Early on we put links in video descriptions but the links soon expired and some started directing viewers to wrong parts. We have some links on our web-page floridavanman.com/links but even those are getting dated and expiring.

[@eddieb8615]

@@FloridaVanMan yeah.. just went there and I don't see any links.

[@nmartin5551]

Did you do the big Volt solar bank again? I asked too soon. You just showed the AGM batteries, are they set up 12v ?

[@FloridaVanMan]

This is just a little 12v system for the common-van. I tried to make this one more main-stream desirable and cost effective.

[@antigroundhogday]

@@FloridaVanMan I'm more so try to decide on a 12-volt verse 24 volt system with roughly 7 to 800 amp hours of battery and trying to push an air conditioner with a roof full of solar. Pros and cons...

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@antigroundhogday 24 volt inverters are more efficient than 12v. Check out our videos on Sunny & Share. It has everything you mentioned, 325ah 24v LiFePo4 (750ahr @12v), 1220 watts of solar, and a stealth air-conditioner that will run 24/7 on solar. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIi1koyNjLR3n8U

[@antigroundhogday]

@@FloridaVanMan hrmm, The video you linked to as you mentioning a 12-volt system in the first few seconds and then a 12-volt high-end hybrid inverter later on in the video. In any event, I am planning around the world trip, where I ship a van from continent to continent. I have to admit, I know the T1N diesel vans are very long life, but I worry about older components. But that chassis may be the best bet for parts availability around the world versus the RAM ProMaster or the Ford Transit. I definitely won't be taking the new Mercedes sprinter due to cost and reliability issues. I'm not sure if this is in your wheelhouse, but perhaps if you have an empty T1N available, perhaps spray foamed, I may be in the market shortly.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@antigroundhogday That is my wheelhouse. I am finishing a build by April 1st, then I have two more 158" SHC vans waiting for my next build. I have a cheap one and a reliable one. I'm not sure which I will build next, so I could sell either one as-is.

[@ras9875]

Mold

[@FloridaVanMan]

I understand your concern. Fortunately, I thought of that and built to minimize moisture getting trapped or soaking into the wood.

[@paulstephens9274]

Btw what ac did you go with

[@FloridaVanMan]

I think this one was on sale, GE or Westinghouse. I've used several and haven't found a favorite or one to beware of. The one I had with remote control and digital displays didn't seem to like being 'plugged-in' before turning it on every time, then 'unplugged' by turning the inverter off.

[@jamessutherland4238]

Do you have plans for the one you built? Or will I need to build to suit? Just curious how far ya got with it

[@FloridaVanMan]

The a/c in this video is installed in a van we call 2Blue. It belongs to a friend in Washington and there are a few videos featuring the van and it's colorful engine.

[@jamessutherland4238]

@@FloridaVanMan not so much worried about the van as I am the A/C unit. Bout to do something very similar, if I can manage it. This portable a/c isn't cutting it. or maybe I'm not setting it up right.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@jamessutherland4238 The big problem with portable A/C is they usually don't have a fresh air inlet from the outdoors. This means it sucks cool air out of the room, over the hot coils and exhausts that air outside via a tube in a window. So now that air in the room has to be replaced and it will usually come in through the dash vents, the hottest part of any car or van. The portable I took apart for a prototype-build couldn't be adapted to fix this problem.

[@jamessutherland4238]

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! I'm thinking of a window unit that hangs from the OhShit handle next to the window.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@jamessutherland4238 I have one that hangs in the passenger window with a chain to the rain rail for support. It is seen in at least one video (still-shots). Made for boat decks, by Carry-air, I think. Haven't used it in years and would like to see someone use it. If you are in Florida any time soon, stop in.

[@JerkyJones100]

No tools needed in your thumbnail is definitely click bait. How did you cut all that wood and make such an elaborate venting system with no tools. Come on man! 🙄

[@FloridaVanMan]

I'm sorry for the misunderstanding. I was referring to the special skills and tools of an HVAC technician. I first had it worded , 'No HVAC tools or skills needed' and found the same problem, but believed that was more easily misunderstood, implying no building skill is needed. 'No special skills or special tools' was just too wordy. Thank you for tuning in.

[@timrollins1015]

You already have mold on the wood

[@FloridaVanMan]

You might be seeing some paint on the wood, but it could be mold too. This was made with "leftover" wood from other projects.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@Pat Luxor If it eases the mind at all.... This van was on the road less than 18 months before it was totaled in a roll-over crash. Nobody hurt and that re-used plywood is through the crusher by now.

[@robjones4662]

You joking

[@FloridaVanMan]

No, I only tell "Dad jokes" and when I do its a-parent. LOL This a/c works great!

[@rvc9876]

Best set up for residential AC in Sprinter - kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4nKeXyoe9agb9E

[@FloridaVanMan]

I met him many years ago when FloridaVanMan was just an idea. I bought a Sprinter grill from him and looked at his NCV3s. His house is maybe 25 miles from mine. He has HVAC skills most of us don't have but I keep thinking about trying my luck at doing it his way. Modified to add my own ideas, of course.

[@rvc9876]

@@FloridaVanMan Life is so uncanny, you know the guy and 25 miles away. Wow. Anyhow, you also have impressive skills. Keep doing what you do.