Alberg 30 Tilt Up Outboard Motor Well and Norvane Self-Steering Windvane

Scenes of construction details of a tilt-up outboard well contained within the lazarette locker of an Alberg 30. Also, the installation of a Norvane self-steering windvane.

[@crasch4]

Thanks for posting these! I'm planning to do the same with my boat, and it's very helpful to see what you've done.

[@eckhardkoehler3013]

Beautiful work! Ingenious ideas! Thank you for sharing!

[@symphonyfarm2009]

Really cool Video! - An Islander 29 has popped up in my area for really cheap. I have sworn that I would never own an inboard. this looks like a nice out!

[@seamusholley761]

Very nice installation!

[@donaldl.blandjr.6442]

Xi really admire your work James !

[@danknox9986]

Nice job.

[@DellaDeLobos]

Dam, you are GOOD!!!

[@shakeymay4643]

Nice Job ,

[@RickRose]

Great-looking installation. Would love to see some sea trials footage.

[@atomvoyager]

Rick Rose That boat left here on a trailer and I haven't had access to it yet for a sea trial video. But you can see similar setups being used underway on other videos on this channel. I'm working on another A30 now and plan to video that one being motored at sea. James

[@atomvoyager]

Jeremiah, for some reason youtube won't let me reply to comments today. The motor is a 25" extra long shaft.

[@markst95]

Great Job! I've always thought the Tilt-up outboard slot was the way to go. Is there enough room to turn the motor for better close quarters maneuvering?

[@atomvoyager]

Yes, the motor pivots fully for side thrust when needed. That's one of the features of an outboard that we didn't want to lose. Too bad so few boat designs are able to be modified this way, but the Alberg 30 is ideal.

[@christopherperry1420]

Super helpful, I am planning to embark on this myself-my Atomic is driving me crazy! Can I asked if you have any knowledge to do this installation on a Tartan 27? And is it so detrimental to mount it non tilting?

[@atomvoyager]

There may not be enough space for a tilt-up version on the T27. You need about 29" between transom and rudder cap. If not, you might be able to fit a non-tilting well. I'm facing this issue now on a Cape Dory 26 that looks like it only has 28" and has a non-tilt factory well installed. The problem with that other than some extra drag is fouling and corrosion if left sitting in the well day after day. Maybe you can deal with that by not using larger than a 6hp extra long shaft, and if not using the motor for several days, hoisting the motor out with a boom vang attached to the backstay and then manhandling it to a motor mount on the pushpit. You have to cut a larger hole in the hull to get the prop down since you can't tilt to replace the prop. You want some cover boards to fit around the motor to reduce turbulence.

[@youyouulf]

Great job and video! I am planning to do the same (well project) on my 1966 Albin Vega (27ft). I just have to figure out a solution to avoid getting in conflict with the mains traveller, which sits on the forward part of the lazarette top. I have a few questions: #1: Does your engine have electric start? #2: If not, are there any problems to consider to be able to start it manually? #3: You use a 6HP engine. Is it powerful enough to manouver the boat safely in strong head winds and waves? #4: How far down is the propeller under the water line? #5: Would a short shaft engine do the job as long as the prop sits low enough under the water line and as long as the engine is not being flushed by seas in the well? #6: Are you happy with this solution, or are there modifications or changes you would have done? #7: How thick is the ply you used and #8: How many layers of glass did you put on the ply before painting? I would appreciate very much if you took the time to comment on these q's. Fair winds! S/V Tiger Lily, #48 Albin Vega, Norway.

[@atomvoyager]

+Uffen There's no electric start. The starter rope can be pulled from the hatch at an angle. If the motor is too low for that on some boats I add a round access plate on the upper forward bulkhead, which can also aid ventilation if the hatch is closed. 6hp is considered under powered for this size boat by most sailors but will push the boat over 5 knots in calm waters. It will be plenty for the smaller Vega but you still can't motor into 30 knot winds and seas, of course. The prop is at least a foot under water but I don't recall the exact number. Although the 20" long shaft works reasonably on some boats, it's much better to use the 25" extra long shaft to prevent the prop sucking air in choppy water. I'm still building the same design on other boats and you can sea one on my 28' Atom and other boats in more videos on my channel. Some of the ply is 1/2" and some pieces 3/4". You have to use your own judgement on ply thickness and type and layers of glass and err on the strong side and make sure all wood has several layers of epoxy resin to waterproof it in areas not glassed. I have a customers Vega in one of my boat sheds now who has an inboard engine. His traveler is forward of the bulkhead so probably not a problem. You could switch to 3-point tackle for the mainsheet as is common on older boats. The loss of a traveler on these type small boats is not a significant issue. Having said all that, you may need to use an adjustable transom motor bracket on the port corner instead. You could design a hi-lift type mount to get it above the waves when sailing. Although there is about 29" of clearance between transom and bulkhead and the rudder is not in the way, because the waterline looks like it comes up to the bottom aft end of the transom there would be too much turbulence in the well unless you can come up with a creative solution for that. The Albreg 30 and Triton have overhanging transoms, which is why this works so well. If you have more questions you can email me directly thru atomvoyages.com

[@youyouulf]

Thank you very much for your answer. I appreciate your advice re the possible turbulence which may be a problem in a well, but wouldn' that be at least somewhat solved with the type of covers I've seen in one of your vids? I already have a 9,9hp Mercury (short stem) on a high-lift bracket on the port side, and yes, the prop will suck air in choppy waves unless it is put to a very low position, with the risk of getting the whole engine flooded if the waves get high. That's why your well solution came up as a good fix. I will consider trading my 9,9 in for possibly a 8hp, long stem. The outboard is very heavy to handle and I don't like the risk of falling overboard when I need to move it up/down back there on the seas. A motor well would be awsome if I could make it work. A 3-point tackle would solve the traveller problem. Thankyou again for your answer and advices! S/V Tiger Lily, Albin Vega #48, Norway. (Sorry for not sending this as an email.. just forgot in my eager to respond ...)

[@youyouulf]

Just an appendix re the waterline: My inboard engine with all remedies are taken out. That makes the boat 180-200kgs lighter and makes the stern float higher. I guess that benefits a well solution too.

[@thinkjeremiah]

Hi, I am going to follow your lead and have pulled out my atomic 4. My question is how long is your shaft on your outboard?

[@atomvoyager]

25" extra long shaft.

[@DufkoM]

Hello sir. I love the video. Im having a dilema of my own, whether to reinstall diesel inboard which was unfortunately taken out, but this might actually be the very best solution. Is it possible to have you consult on my boat? If i would send you some pictures. Also are these outboard engines reliable enough when used in sea currents? Love your work. You are genious

[@DufkoM]

I have 27 ft Miranda Feria 1974

[@atomvoyager]

A new inboard diesel is probably more reliable and better performance offshore than with an outboard motor. You can email me through the contact button at atomvoyages.com but if this is your boat linked below then there probably is not enough space for an outboard well between rudder and transom. www.yachtseite.de/index.php?title=Bild:Mirandaferia-riss1.gif

[@georgewight2282]

Hello! Very cool! is there anyway to make this work on an Alberg 29?

[@atomvoyager]

+George Wight The A29 appears to have less space than the A30 between tiller cap and and transom. You'd have to get that measurement and get back to me thru my contact button at atomvoyages.com. It would probably require cutting away the lazarette bulkhead and extending it forward as I did on my Triton. And it would likely ruin the resale value of this boat that people expect to have a diesel.

[@johnnywilson1616]

For sailing in the Caribbean is the 6 HP adequate and could a larger HP outboard be installed?

[@atomvoyager]

The SailPro 6 was the largest size motor that easily fit in the lazarette. A larger motor could be fit but would require a higher top hatch and extending the bulkhead forward into the cockpit. Probably doable, but more work and not as aesthetically pleasing. You can see the boxy results of too large a motor for a certain locker size by checking my Triton video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/faWQmGqjdrZ5g5o James

[@cliffordbradford8910]

Surely an Alberg 30 should have a Cape Horn windvane? How is the lazarette ventilated to avoid build up of gasoline vapors? Nice mod.

[@atomvoyager]

+Clifford Bradford The Cape Horn windvane likes to be mounted close to centerline to work best but that's where the motor is. Also, the integrated model most people choose takes up much space in the lazarette with a quadrant and steering lines which again gets in the way of the motor. That's mainly why Jean-du-Sud has a side mounted outboard bracket. The lazarette is sealed from the bilge and boat interior to prevent flooding so that takes care of gas vapors. They can't build up in the locker anyway because the sllding cover boards are not airtight. Here's a link to another one underway: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3W1o32Vqsmfbbs After that video I added a spring latch to hold the lid up as seen in this video at the 10 minute mark: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4bJeYh9fdyXl9k

[@zeekwolfe6251]

I'm surprised that professional sail boat builders continue to install engines deep in the hull. They are difficult to service and hell on earth to pull out for an overhaul. An outboard of moderate size and power could be engineered into even the smoothest of hulls. A quick service would be faster and easier than bending over a greasy engine block with wiring and pipes in the way. Convincing the moss backs of traditionalism will not be easy, however.

[@phillycheesetake]

I see quite a lot of new gunkholing designs which do this. Makes the wetted area more hydrodynamic with the motor up, improving performance.

[@norml.hugh-mann]

There are some thatjust consider anything with less than a large inboard deisel a toy

[@DonHarden]

all of this because I assume their motor blew up. wouldn't it be easier and maybe cheaper to fix the motor?

[@atomvoyager]

+Don Harden That's a good question I haven't addressed. People bring me their boats to convert to an outboard well because, like me, they prefer this to an inboard gas motor or even a diesel. There are trade-offs of course, but overall we appreciate the benefits such as increased storage ,less complexity, easier motor maintenance, no prop to foul, snag, or add drag, ability to have side thrust for entering a slip or use as emergency short-term steering if the rudder fails, and so on. I've recently completed a 9.8hp outboard well installation on another Alberg 30 and will have a video up later covering that job.

[@DonHarden]

since my comment I have watched several of your other videos and read many other comments. I now see why folks want to do this and You are the man. thank you for your videos and time you took to reply to me.