I couldn't say other than to first look at the price of comparable boats on the market, then add to it a value that you feel the modifications and equipment this boat has are worth to you compared to other boats offered.

The two boats I have installed epropulsion outboards on are using them while cruising and they are functioning well at the moment but I did have some issues with with them. I had two bad displays that fogged up due to the factory not sealing the lens and had one bad battery. It was a hassle to get replacements under warranty but eventually we did. Also, some design features are not ideal so I am not sure I can recommend them at this point. These boat owners wanted an outboard well with gas or electric motor option. They did not want an inboard installation of either type. There are many pros and cons to that as I outlined in the following article link. If you want to discuss it further you can email me your number at atomvoyages.com and I can phone you. atomvoyages.com/improved-outboard-well/

I've sailed to Bahamas a couple times from Brunswick, GA, once by going SE until reaching GS then E across the current then resume SE course once clear of the GS and arrived at Marsh Harbour, Abacos after 4 days nonstop. The other route is to harbor hop down the FL coast and cross to West End from Lake Worth, West Palm Beach. Mid winter is not the best time because of long delays waiting for weather windows and once you get to Abacos the frequent cold fronts make it difficult to find protected anchorages with little fetch for strong shifting winds. Too many details and variations to type it all here. If you want to discuss it further, email me through atomvoyages.com and we can arrange a phone call.

An inflatable kayak would be the most practical tender for a small boat although it does have its own limitations.

In this case I think we just used 2 coats of white Interprotect 2000e epoxy barrier coat as a primer and paint in one. It's the easiest and fastest to apply if you don't mind the matte finish. Recently I prefer to use white Total Protect from Total Boat since it goes on smoother and less odor when applying. For areas where the owner wants a smoother paint finish I use latex type EZ Cabin Coat which is a semi gloss and tint it off-white as done in the link to the video here about 8 minutes in. In any case, I try to avoid using gloss white because it is too reflective and highlights imperfections in the surface and finish: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpTaf4aMfc2Un6M

@@atomvoyager Thanks so much for your info. I do like the matte finish. I find gloss below decks distracting with all its imperfections jumping out at me. I recently joined your Plastic Classic Forum, I’ve got a coffee-can-type hull-to-deck joint on my Havsfidra 20 that I will be dealing with and hopefully can get some detailed info on. Thanks for all you do!

In this case because the diesel was a small one weighting about 200lbs and located further forward than the outboard, the combined weight of outboard, solar, extra batteries and anchors tended to keep the trim about the same.

@@FarReachVoyages We know what the nicer CD36 is , Good on Ya.

Thanks for the tips we got from you and FarReachVoyages on the wheel to tiller conversion and other things.

Thanks for that info.

I'm sure that's true. It may not have changed our choice to use epropulsion but too bad they felt the need to lie about it.

That could be a good option.

I think the bunks were around 75" but you should ask on one of the Cape Dory forums to confirm. It should be possible to drop the cabin sole 3" or so to obtain 6'5" headroom but you may have to relocate or modify and water tanks that might be located close under the sole as there are on this boat.

Because the original CD36 footwell is far enough above the waterline we were able to do this by dropping the aft end about 5" and keeping the forward end at the same height. We needed to do this instead of raising the forward end because of the outboard well and tiller conversion restrictions. On the A30 where the waterline is higher up you'll probably need to keep the aft end in the same position and raise the forward end roughly 3". But then you'll lose headroom under the boom and bimini, which may be an issue. To know exactly, you'll have to check the angle of the footwell with a level to ensure enough slope for drainage. At 5-6 knots the stern will squat and improve the drainage angle but there is a risk of back-flooding if the outlet is too low. We used something similar to the T-H Marine Scupper Valve Assembly | Flush Mount Boat Flapper Scuppers to reduce any inrush of water from following seas. You can watch the footwell modification in part 2 of this playlist beginning at 8 minutes thru 22 minutes here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/injce3toq62UsLM

Possibly, but 6mm line is hard to handle under any load and others have claimed that a full length trip line doesn't work because it fouls and wraps itself around the drogue line. Might be worth a test though.

Same way as in the video - brute force with the windlass, although at some point that won't be manageable so in most cases you would wait until the storm has moderated before retrieving.

Yes, same boat, same owner.

@atomvoyager thanks very much. I remembered reading about it somewhere. Great feat indeed. 👍👍

I'm not familiar with the C20 but most boats can benefit from some strengthening and safety and functioning modifications. I would join a popular online trailer sailer group and ask them for specific known weak points.

@atomvoyager thanks I will try that. My main goal is to sail from Tampa around the keys and hopefully cross over to the Bahamas... I also want to sail from Southern Florida up to Reedsville VA. And stop in Brunswick to vist my childhood hunting grounds at Blythe Island. I was raised right there at the Boy scout camp grand in the 1975. Not necessarily in that order.. lol.

This sounds like the system popularized by Emily and Clarks Adventure youtube video three years ago. While it is feasible, I decided then that there were a couple cons and not enough benefits for our situation so dismissed it. People should check out the video and read through the top comments for more info: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnLYgZmdj8yLm8U

@atomvoyager wow, that guy talks a lot just to say something simple. I'm thinking about just deleting my engine alternator for my next boat. In my experience, I never use it and it's problematic.

I would carefully weigh the pros and cons before switching your gas outboard for electric. If you truly only motor in and out the marina or other short periods that the electric motors limited range can handle then the gas motor noise for short duration should not bother you that much either. I'm learning from experience that the gas motor is much simpler, cheaper, more reliable and functional. One of the Epropulsion lithium batteries we bought had some fault soon after it arrived and we struggled to get them to replace it under warranty. If you use a different LiFePo4 battery then the regen feature won't work. Also, we had two bad remote displays that had to be swapped out in the first few months. Other owners on the Epropulsion facebook group frequently report similar quality and design problems. But if you dislike the gas motor that much and want to risk it, or like we did, want to experiment and learn first hand if electric is suitable to your needs, then the Navy 6 seems a better choice for an Alberg 30 than the 3. You'll find with the bigger motor you don't have to run it at full throttle which can cause overheating and shorten the life. A downside is that you'll need to rig up your own lifting tackle since the motor is so bottom heavy that it's nearly impossible to tilt it up without it. Not tilting up either motor somewhat defeats the purpose of the well. With three electric connections and the two bolts in the mount to remove, it's also time consuming and heavy and awkward to handle. Why do you remove the gas motor or leave it down rather than tilting it under sail or for storage, when it's such a simple way to handle it?

Eh. If it's safe to breathe who cares. Even the bottom of a coast guard cutter isn't that far from the surface.

The bracket is a discontinued unbranded model that is no longer available. The closest thing I've seen to it is a RAM mount that I've used on other boats: www.hodgesmarine.com/ramram-109vu-ram-mount-single-6-swing-arm-with-625-x-2-re.html

My 1981 Yanmar thumper (YSM12), mistreated by countless previous owners, supposedly reconditioned once in the past, still starts every time I push the ignition button, burns no oil, leaks no oil. Take care of your diesel and it'll last forever...