Replacing Your Tank Valve O-Ring - Scuba Tech Tips: S07E15

[@doctorxring]

Excellent teaching on this important procedure !

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad it was helpful! A

[@raymondburelle3425]

Thanks for the tip Alec I let my lds take care of this for the cost it's not worth my time but I'm glad you showed me the process

[@troop1026]

Great video. I just VIP'ed 2 tanks today. My Naui fit is done and working on my Dive Master. Chow my friend.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Good to hear Mike. I think you'll enjoy the DM course. Here's where your diving knowledge and skills come together. Have fun. Alec

[@jokagimenez4702]

Great video, very detailed. I'm on a remote island in Fiji, would rather avoid the crazy resort price to change the o-ring! Looks straight forward enough, will give it a try. Thanks!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad you like it and hope it helps. Loved my visit to Fiji. Lots more tips to keep you away from the resort prices. A

[@williamsweet7511]

thank you sir, always interesting watching your videos

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

My pleasure William. A.

[@chrishanson6548]

SGA sells a valve with a black cap with a hole in it for the dip tube screwed onto the valve. The cap is great for installing o-rings. Simply screw it onto the valve and slip the o-ring over it. It does help to spread a tiny bit of lube on the outside of the cap to make it easier to let the o-ring slide over. The helps to prevent the o-ring from rolling or being cut from the threads. CGA, DOT, or OSHA has a video on how to install valves. It suggests using a non-adhesive wrap over the threads before installing the o-ring.

[@chrishanson6548]

Trident scuba calls the ribbon rescue tape, part number FA64

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Sounds like a good device for shops doing lots of tank valve services. Always use non-adhesive wrap, like silicon tape. Do not want anything sticking to the threads. Thanks for sharing Chris.

[@wileyecoyote6186]

Thanks for the upload helped me do my tank!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad I could help

[@owdred6314]

Fantastic video amusing and informative.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@xentrix1024]

Great video again, thank you! I wonder, shouldn't we cover the tank's open hole while we work on the valve? I was anxious while watching, keeping an eye on the opening and waiting for brushed off dirt to fall inside. Am I exaggerating?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

You're right. In actual service mode we use a special threaded plastic cap that goes into the tank whenever the valve is not there. We also brush and blow off any dirt before and then after the valve is loosened but before it's removed so nothing that might have been around the valve falls in. Good that you noticed that. Alec

[@edwardjoyce864]

Hey Alec I have really been loving your videos! Unless I missed one, I have request for a future video, and that being about under garments for dry suits. I know you have covered the suites them selves. But not what all the options are for warmth, and (not sure if it’s appropriate for your clips) options for when nature calls while in a dry suit. Thanks in advance!

[@alaind831]

actually we are all still waiting for dry suit episodes...undergarment being one part.

[@IM35461]

In the UK with our steel tanks and DIN tank valves we just have a bar that screws in where the 1st stage goes. A quick tap on the bar does the trick to release. Our tank valves also have a hole in the side where they screw into the cylinder to relieve the pressure if an idiot tries to remove the valve with pressure in the tank.

[@Blubpaule]

second that. another reason why DIN is actually better :)

[@bas6983]

You need a very long bar if you would like to remove the valve with pressure inside. The force is immense.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

It would be almost impossible. Something would break before the valve moved. Alec

[@Blubpaule]

No, of course we let the air out first. but we don't hit on our handles. we just screw a metal bar where the first stage usually goes and voila. A little nudge in the right direction and the valve is loose. Something like this: goo.gl/b2e69w and since it screws in it doesn't matter how the valve is actually shaped.

[@swedendive]

Thanks for a great video as always. Why are not valves made in stainless 316L steel?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Good question. 1. Stainless is not stainless and would soon start to breakdown, particularly in salt water. Brass however, will never corrode. 2. Stainless is much harder to work with os it would be a big job to machine a valve with all the passageways. 3. Cost. Stainless steel is twice as expensive as brass. Take care. Alec

[@davidbrebera6816]

Dear Alec, thank you very much for this video. My 18L steel tank just returned form the hydrostatic testing and I noticed the valve is mounted (tightened) in slightly different position, missing approx. 30-45 degrees turn to be oriented to the very same position as it was before the testing (easily checked by the stickers on the tank). Is this normal to have the valve in the different position after testing? Thank you!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

It can be depending on the torque used to tighten the valve (assuming proper limits and not gorilla strength). A

[@BurhanMuntasser]

Have you produced the Tank visual inspection video yet please? If yes, please put the link in your reply.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Sure did. Search for scuba tech tip video, S08E08, Tanks #2, Visual Inspections. Thanks for watching. Alec

[@juliemckibben5974]

Love your diving vids. I am looking to get a full face mask. I can't decide on the ots gardian or the ocean reef Neptune

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

They're very similar. I've used the OTS and found it very good. Alec

[@donaldotsig6818]

Hi Alec how tight should a person make the handwheel knob on the scuba tank would a three finger tight be enough or just snug thanks again

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

If you mean when opening a tank, use 3 fingers until it stops, no more force (not needed). It also help when closing as there is no effort to start the valve closing. A

[@donaldotsig6818]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks so to tighten the knob only three finders tight not even snug right

[@999racing]

What exactly is actually done on the visual examination? Is it that the threads are basically being looked at?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Take a look at my video S08E08 Tanks visual inspections for more information. Checking the tank threads is just one of several inspection points. Also looked at is the outside for anything that would affect its ability to flex under pressure. Inside is key for corrosion, pitting, debris, anything that would affect the air quality or tanks safety.

[@bobdavis5398]

I could be wrong but you didn't mention the type of grease you used.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

For most recreational divers, pure silicon grease, food grade, is fine. If you want, an oxygen compatible grease is good too. Any dive store can supply appropriate grease in any size from 1/4 oz to 2 pounds (2 pounds will service about 500 regulators!!). Take care. Alec

[@esanchezp]

I have an older cylinder with a J valve, can I change the valve with a newer and what should I keep in mind when purchasing a newer valve? Or are they all of the same diameter?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

If the tank is good (VIS & Hydro), then a modern 'K' valve can be fit if the threads are not tapered like in old 72's. The only valve options are if you want it convertible between yoke and DIN via a threaded insert. Thanks for watching.

[@DannyB-cs9vx]

Regulators are full of O-rings. do you need to have them rebuilt with the nitrox o-rings?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Each manufacturer sets the recommendation for o-ring replacement when converting from air to EAN up to 40% O2. Some regs are nitrox ready out of the box new so check the product before filing. Otherwise, any o-ring that comes in contact with nitrox has to be changed using the makers service kit that only certified technicians can order. O-ring conversion kits are not that expensive and since a reg is generally serviced annually, maybe more if diving a lot. Talk to your local dive shop service tech about the cost at your next servicing so your not paying too early. Hope this helps.

[@rimotivri]

under surface stuff are welcome. Cool.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Welcome underwater stuff. Alec

[@alaind831]

so you sort of touched on the Nitrox o-ring (brown) vs regular rubber one. I have a tank that I occasionally use nitrox (pre mixed, not o2 clean) on boats, but it never stays with nitrox longer than the day or 2 boat trip, then gets filed with regular air at home. I did replace the valve with a regular o-ring (had a tech multi DIN valve I took off) and I don't see a reason to change it given how infrequently it stays with 32% (just like rest of my gear uses regular o-rings). Makes sense ? unfortunately no way to know if shop replaces it on every visual or even hydro... guess I should ask or open it up and check after each visit....

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

1. If you're using no more than 32% and only pre-mix then you're fine. There's no real need for Viton O-Rings or any other oxygen compatible O-Ring until you reach 40% or more. If you were partial pressure filling you'd be putting in 100% oxygen. 2. A proper annual visual exam includes new O-Rings in the tank neck and the valve face. The cost is less than $5 for both and why risk a blow-out for that. The tank neck O-Ring is under constant high pressure so gets very distorted. The valve face O-Ring is exposed to sun, salt and water so alos breaks down quickly. 3. How do you know if your dive shop changes them? Because they always show you the used parts that they replaced right!! Or they should. Take care Alain. Alec

[@alaind831]

I bet they don't. Never have seen old parts but I also didn't think to ask if they change orings. I will now.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Tell them you're keeping a record of your reg's performance and maintenance and want the old parts back. A

[@sidhunp]

why dont you screw the O ring down the thread? that is easier right? but maybe the sharp edges can shear the ring

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Tank valve makers generally agree to not 'thread the o-ring' onto the valve. Reason is as the valve turns it can cut or mark the o-ring making a small leak possible. Stay tuned in 3 video's from now a new video on 'properly install a tank valve' is coming. I discuss your question and answer many others. Thanks for watching.

[@benoitpoulin6171]

Can you clean the valve in Ultrasonic?

[@brianwhitaker4768]

Can someone answer this? I would love to know if I can drop these in the ultrasonic bath?

[@troop1026]

I cut the old o-ring immediately and throw it away. Never get them confused.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Good tip. When I did service all replaced parts when onto a small bag given to the customer to show ALL the parts replaced in the service kit bag the new parts come in. Funny to see them look at it and count all the big & small o-rings as if they would know i missed one. Also proves to the customer nothing was reused.

[@troop1026]

Alec Peirce Scuba I do that on VIP’s but now I’m upping my game and doing it on regulator service. Thanks Alec stay safe up there. Could you do a video on the clips that hold the two half’s of a two hose regulator and the clamp at the mouthpiece and at the regulator.

[@АндрейФролов-ж6к]

Алек спасибо за обзор.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Добро пожаловать. Спасибо за просмотр. сельдь

[@volvoman2324]

Why not use a wrench? I have seen a lot of bent knobs.... also some viton come in black too. the process of dying them brown is said to weaken them?? who knows?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

If you have the proper wrench to fit the valve that's what to use. The problem is that valves are not a standard design. Some have wrench flats; many do not. Even for those that do you'd need several different wrenches so what happens is someones uses an adjustable wrench and proceeds to ruin the flats or even the valve. You wouldn't believe what I've seen! So, used carefully, a rubber mallet works well on every valve. There are wrenches made that fit down over the valve from above. They have 3 or 4 strong fingers that fit against the sides of the knob and allow you to use a standard 1/2" socket wrench. They also allow you to use a torque wrench which is good. But again, you would need several to fit all the different valve designs and they simply don't exist. A good machinist could make a set but the value in doing so isn't there. No one would buy them. The different color of a Viton O-Ring or any other special purpose O-Ring isn't dye. It is the result of different material used to make the O-Ring. You can read on the internet about the different O-Rings available, what they are used for and what they are made from. Thanks again for watching Mars. Alec

[@volvoman2324]

franklin.chem.colostate.edu/glassguy/viton.html

[@Sh0ck556]

Interesting....My valve O-rings are green

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

O-Rings come in several different colors. The newer Viton and other oxygen compatible rings are color-coded. I've not seen green O-Rings but I'd suspect they're similar. Alec

[@CRISANTALvlog]

Hi hello friend nice

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Hello 😊

[@oceanviewz]

16 minutes needs to be reduced to about 3 minutes

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

But you would miss my amazing humour!

[@__-pl3jg]

Decades of experience and he's whacking the knob instead of using an adjustable wrench! Do not do that! Use a soft grip wrench to avoid scratching the brass coating.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Your right Caleb, my decades of experience includes 1,000+ scuba tank valve on/off services. So let me share that experience in detail and why I use the rubber mallet technique. We agree that tank valves are soft brass, so using anything hard like an adjustable or fixed wrench is not the best. Soft grip wrenches may work for you but require more clamping force and can slip causing rounded flats. The key fact in tank valves is not the tool, but the O-ring. The o-ring is the only thing holding back 3000 psi of tank pressure, not the threads. The Sherwood service procedure SSV-48P for "Recreational Scuba Diving K-Valve", specifies "40 - 50 ft. lbs. of torque", nothing more which is just over hand tightened force. The same service procedure under Disassembly, step 3 states "Remove valve from tank." They manufacture never mentions what on/off tool. It is up to the service technical which method best works best. In my experience, 2 taps with a rubber mallet loosens almost every valve. Consider how much abuse tank valves get when transporting or diving, this is minimal force and cheaper to repair than replacing a stripped valve. Last, in the 2018 Trident Diving Equipment catalogue, page 62, part #SA70 is the only tool listed to remove tank valves, "Rubber mallet for tank valve removal." No wrench or other tool is mention for this purpose in that 436 page manual of everything scuba. My point is the rubber mallet easily removes a valve that is not over tightened. If you have a preferred tool that works for you, keeps your clients from complaining about scratched valves after a service, please do so. I'm sharing my service experiences for everyone to learn something they are not shown in Open Water classes or even Equipment Specialty courses. Hope this was not too long, like my videos, and we shared our experiences for others. Thanks for watching. Alec.