MAKING FORGE DOORS!!! Part 2

[@jackwatson3649]

"Blacksmith discovers electricity" is what the title should be. the pure joy is so wholesome when it starts rotating

[@dimasdimas6480]

😅😅😅

[@tonyonofrio1147]

You should probably have some limit switches and code to stop trying to raise or lower the door past mechanical limits. Otherwise the motors could burn out or mechanical things go snap/bang.

[@bronxcheer031]

Or, they could think about springs or counterweights. Probably cheaper than buying new electrifical stuff.

[@jonathanheidegger1520]

limits could possibly added in the software depending on the controllers used for the stepper motors.

[@eskrace1104]

@@capelectronics So why have limit switches on a 3d printer? It's just for safety and doesn't cost that much. The coding is simple to.

[@dawkinschmidt3921]

He needs the help of Michael Reeves

[@eskrace1104]

@@capelectronics You don't need to set the switch near the door at all. With wire and pulley's on the stepper motor, you could easily set the switch elsewhere away from the heat ; )

[@rminer1795]

Alex: You might consider rotating the design 90 degrees, supporting the door on THK rail, and sliding the door left to right with a linear actuator rather than raising the door. This has the advantage of getting the motor as far from the heat as possible, greatly reducing the motor load, and in a catastrophic failure the door doesn't fall.

[@Uncephalized]

"Can this lift 30 lbs?!" Of course it can. That's what gearing is for.

[@atomicmonkeysquad]

And/or counterweights.

[@eskrace1104]

@@atomicmonkeysquad And pullies ;) A couple extra of them would do the trick.

[@JGHFunRun]

Anything can lift 500 lbs with the right gearing, 30 lbs is nothing

[@bobbynate4271]

Don't forget you can hang some counter weights from the cables to help the motors last. Great work 👍.

[@adammiller8793]

"Gonna use a Snatch Block here" SmaterEveryDay has entered the chat....

[@csbeverly1]

SNATCHBLOCK

[@parthkhaladkar9017]

SNATCHBLOCK!

[@wydra9-1]

SNATCHBLOOOOOCK!!!

[@theninjapizza33]

You 100% have to use a worm gear in case the electronics fail, the door doesn't just slam shut when the motor loses power. It'll also mean your motor isn't constantly loaded. Edit: ALEC read this about CO build up - Say the counterweight is not properly balanced and the motor fails, the doors drift shut when alec/will are doing something else, causing carbon monoxide build up. All that would happen when a worm gear fails is the door would stay in position. So sure, add a counterweight but couple the motor into the system through a worm gear first

[@sourcererseven3858]

Yeah a serious concern. Though they'll only be powered while the doors are opened, which they won't be a lot I guess. At least needs a mechanical stop (something to jam in there, safety pin through both zylinders maybe) to safely work on the forge if your hands go near the doors, e.g. to clean out the inside.

[@trash_in_a_box]

Or use a counter weight. The doors can open and close faster.

[@sladoeii]

Steppers don't care about being constantly loaded.

[@asdfjoe123]

Or one can counter-weight the door and put a goof buffer on the travel stop for the counter-weight (so if it ever ends up in freefall it will not hard-stop by slamming shut) or put in a wedge/block that positively engages stops on the frame unless actively retracted (so a failure of the system results in a door that safely stays in place.)

[@dfgaJK]

I think a counterweight would be a better option as it means less moving parts and things to wear out. Also, alec could forge some nice looking weights to go on It.

[@TaranTatsuuchi]

Congratulations Alec, you've discovered the wonders of programming... May God have mercy on your soul...

[@georgemarshall6657]

He's just got to discover the "it worked and now it doesn't" pain

[@banditaviation1924]

i know this is a 2 year old comment but I just started learning python and your comment made me laugh/cry

[@Drew_lininger]

You should come over and forge sometime! We are in the same town!

[@michaelcarlson2245]

Hello friend from the 406!

[@nicquintana1092]

What town

[@michaelcarlson2245]

I live in Shepherd which is about 15 miles NE of Billings! Right under 2 1/2 hours to Bozo (I say affectionately) from here.

[@Drew_lininger]

Mjölnir Odinson hi! I’m in Bozo

[@bnbcraft6666]

Have you ever seen him in public?

[@gregsall5872]

This guy will literally try anything and go balls to the walls even if he has little experience in it and he has the best attitude about it. Pretty fucking awesome

[@azureumbra]

Alec, if you publish the code, I'll take a look at getting it up and running for you, as this is what I do for a living. A lot of people below are saying that you can't do simultaneous input/output off of an Arduino, which is technically true. However, you can fake it through interrupts and/or polling. I'll reply to myself with a code sample in a few minutes showing how you can do this, but there are edge cases where it might not work. If you can get the code over to me, I can get you fully working code instead of an example!

[@skyredsky7062]

me two

[@ravenelcurryv5374]

he put links in the description :) or at least that is what he said in the vid

[@dailypatrick3715]

Without having seen the code, my guess is that he's throwing each button input into its own loop while being independent from each other. Since he'll need both motors at the same time, he should use a loop with both inputs being conditions to enter it. I'm also unsure which motor drivers he's using but he could also tie them to the same output connection to make things simpler

[@JMurph2015]

Also a programmer by trade, if the changes are open source and less than 100 lines, I could do it tonight 😄.

[@thugasaurusrex6004]

Oh you legend. Thanks for taking the micro-controlled bullet for the rest of us.

[@BlazeOGlory]

The feeling of satisfaction from teaching yourself something is unbeatable. I have taught myself everything that I know about electronics, computers, making things, ect by just getting the stuff and doing it. It is a real feeling of empowerment. I am happy that you are excited about doing that as well Alec. Great video!

[@HaveYouSeenJeff]

Some coding advice: two lines of code will not act simultaneously. It's a linear process of one line, then when that line completes, it checks the next line, and does that line to completion. So if you have a conditional statement or while loop that acts while a single button is held down, it will ONLY do what's contained in that loop or conditional statement until the condition is no longer true, regardless of if you held down other buttons. You need to make conditions within conditions if you want multiple inputs to occur simultaneously.

[@dgthall]

It's great to see Alec doing the passionate learning thing - not that he isn't always passionate, but it's projects like this one where he just lights up and makes people want to learn all the cool things he's learning...

[@ian4481]

"I had to actually use my brain" That's my thought so far for my entire engineering career. Btw when you finally get your code to work right it is such a nice feeling. Great job!

[@sampleexamplemusic]

THANK YOU FOR TRYING IT YOURSELF. Seriously. I'm so sick of "maker" channels saying "i dont do x,y,z so i brought somebody in to do it for me because i need to make quota for my channel!" thanks dude! :) and this made me so happy to see your discovery. best video i've seen in the last year. honestly!

[@super_slo]

Easiest solutions: Simultaneous door operation - unless you actually want to work on your programming abilities, get another Arduino (they're cheap) and run 2 completely parallel systems. Load capacity - get a couple of those hands crank worm drive winches from harbor freight, modify them to be driven by your Arduino/stepper solution.(Cheap and more than capable) Simultaneous AND load capacity - scrap it all and get a couple of cheap winches, fab something to give yourself foot levers to manipulate the controllers. Undoubtedly, Alec will end up with a thousand dollar jewel encrusted Frankenstein that works and creates plenty of content, with 10s of episodes, and i will watch them all enthusiastically! Good luck bro!

[@super_slo]

Better version would be to figure out how and machine your own worm gear setup - that would be cool. Lol. I was mistakenly under the impression a worm gear set would be more expensive, but with a little research it appears you can probably buy a nice pretty little set for less than the harbor freight winch. Good luck!

[@Julian-vt5lh]

I love how excited Alec gets about his programming successes!

[@andreparaiso6565]

@Alex Steele What do you think about elevators? If you don't have enough potency on the steppers, just add a counterweight like in elevators. That way the stepper will only need to deal with the diference from the doors and the counterweight

[@Utoxin]

As a developer, it makes me grin so much to watch you enjoy the moment that your code works. It's just another form of creation, and I hope you enjoy the bits of it you get to do as much as this first magical moment.

[@metalman7825]

Alec:”I’m going to do a thing” Also Alec:*does the thing* Still Alec:”what a FANTASTIC turn of events, this is amazing!”

[@danielrogers32]

Unlike every other commenter on the forge doors series, I don’t know how to do it better than you, Alec, and I’m having a blast watching you figure it out and do it the Alec Steele way. Rock on.

[@christophermorin9036]

Yay, never been so excited for doors!

[@alexkneipp4384]

As a software developer and electrical engineer, it brings me so much joy seeing your "It works" reaction. Reminds me of when I first started fiddling around with an Arduino.

[@justincarpenter8866]

I feel like this is the most complicated way of building doors possible 😂

[@Mr.redacted.]

Nah... He cuda used a turbine

[@focalplane3063]

@@Mr.redacted. The way its going he'll be hitching a couple of horses to it next!!

[@SuperNerdgirl101]

But it's fun to watch

[@ShootLiegh]

After all this time spent watching in amazement as you do work in a field I know nothing about, it's really really fun seeing the tables get turned and watching you play around and get excited over something that it's in an area I understand

[@Scratch83]

Things that are less complicated than the forge doors: Quantum Physics Mapping the human genome Linear Algebra The ending to Interstellar The riddle of Alec’s hair

[@freedomspatriot1585]

This is an underrated comment.

[@ubermenschblyat4608]

Linear Algebra is simple lol

[@William_Borgeson]

When you got the motor to work and got so excited I thought for sure you were going to exclaim It's alive, alive! Felt like a young Frankenstein moment to me, nice work and I'm sure you have more than enough help with the code reading the comments below, it's great seeing everyone trying to help!

[@paulmassey482]

alec you need some limit switches (optical or mechanical) if you need some help let me know

[@kogatana0kireba]

Alec, I agree. It will be easier to stop the motors once the doors reach the point you want them. It also doesn't require coding. You can look up how limit switches work. It will help a lot in this proyect. ;)

[@gavinkemp7920]

wouldn't it be possible to measure the resistance of the stepper motor ? no extra hardware and would add a safety element to.

[@michaelhlinka94]

I just love how excited you are about doing electronic projects!

[@davidurdahl6656]

This woulda been a good opportunity for a colab with Bob Clagget.

[@stephen1475]

if there was ever a vid for a 1 time sponsor this was it. the joy and astonishment of getting a stepper working! it took me back to my verry first programs. best add ever! you should have taken a sponsorship from arduino. worm gear will minimise stress on the motor. i thought you might be going chain and sprocket route being more durable. although i do like the cables. a counterweight will be worth the effort. you could use a ratchet to hold the door without power. im thinking medievil portculis type mechanism, butmore complex.

[@IrishSouthPaw]

A blacksmith working with electronics, what a wonderful world!

[@tecategt5]

Patrick Irish pretty fucking sad if you ask me.

[@roedyhellyeah]

Hi all, as an electrical engineer i learned a lot from you! So time for me to help you. Some sort of contra weight would be help full and simple because no moving parts. The code is probably already solved if not I will dive in to it tomorrow and help you out! Proud of you my dude!

[@isaacstrong5426]

Oh seizure tree, oh seizure tree, how flashy are your branches.

[@declantash300]

I so enjoy how excited Alec gets when learning something new and succeeding in applying the skill. You guys are awesome!

[@Beholder_Media]

Hi Alec, control systems student here. We can't see your code but I'd imagine that the problem is how your loops are working. If your code checks 'Is button A pressed? Do thing X until A isn't pressed anymore' and the same for Button B does Y. What you want is to put in another statement to check for when both are pressed, for example 'If A AND B pressed, do both X and Y'. What this will achieve is it will keep the motors (X/Y) going until one of the buttons are released, wherein your code will keep going round and find the state it is actually in. you'll want to put in another equivalent loop or set of loops for backwards as well. Can't be too much more specific without seeing the code. A problem you may encounter if you just put this in as another if statement at the bottom of the script, it won't work properly. You'll need to use IF, ELSE IF, ELSE to make it work how you want it to. TLDR; Arduinos are bad at multitasking, so you just have to give them a single task to do both motors, and have it trigger that task when both buttons are pressed and stop when either condition is no longer true. Hopefully this was helpful, apologies if I was too vague.

[@analog56x]

would this work though, if you pressed both buttons at separate times? cause if you're holding down motor 1 up, then it will be stuck in that loop until you release it, and it wont be able to run through the rest of the code. if you pressed both motor 1 up and motor 2 up at exactly the same time, it might work, but the odds of that are slim to none. im not nitpicking, im genuinely curious, cause ive been playing with arduinos for about 3 years now, and havent been able to do what Alec is trying to do...

[@TerrorBunney]

@@analog56x that's only the case if you use if statements to directly control the actions. If you use the if statements to shift bits into a variable and then use a switch case to execute the commands it doesn't matter in what order you press the button because you will have an action for every combination. Example: Button up 1 adds 0001 Button down 1adds 0010 Button up 2 adds 0100 Button down 2 adds 1000 Now if you want up on motor 1 and up on motor 2 you put that in case(0101) It doesn't matter if you first add 1 or the other. At the end of the day you are left with 0101

[@analog56x]

@@TerrorBunney that makes sense, i think... so it would be constantly looping and checking to see if the variable has changed. if it has, it acts accordingly. im struggling to figure out how you would change the variable while outputting though... there would have to be a momentary pause in the output to be able to loop again and check to see if anything has changed... wouldnt there?

[@Uncephalized]

@@analog56x on an Arduino, if you set a bit it stays set until changed. So if you go through and set 1 for FrontUp, the Arduino doesn't have to keep running logic to keep telling it to run, as long as you've wired the motor logic to go up when the bit for FrontUp is set to 1. It will run until the Arduino changes that bit to 0. So in the meantime you can run your checks for the other 3 buttons and set those bits to their needed state. That's running in a loop so in a millisecond or so you will have gotten back to checking the state of the FrontUp button, and so on. There will be no perceptible lag between when the human presses the button and when the outputs change.

[@analog56x]

@@Uncephalized YES!!! thats right! I started playing with bits a while ago, to be able to set parameters using a rotary encoder. I could cycle through a menu to change settings of a device i built, save those settings, then go and change others, all while monitoring a temperature. If that temperature went above threshold, it would immediately freeze the system and turn the cooling fans to 100%. Once the temp cooled off, it would unfreeze, and you could go back to changing settings and monitoring. I totally forgot about all of that haha

[@rogerj412]

I'm sure as hell no programmer, though I do have to use some SQL for my job. I just really enjoy seeing that so many different types of people enjoy watching Alec, Will, and the team do what they do best.

[@patrickkov]

Just use a counter weight to make the doors lighter.

[@jamesellsworth9673]

Paragon is awesome, based on your explanations and experiences. Yours is a wonderful channel for encouraging emerging technicians and for helping to show new would-be technical people several of the crafts that might interest them.

[@goshisanniichi]

Weren't you planning on doing something with Colin Furze at some point? hint hint

[@Pirat3G4ming]

Got there before me but this would have been the optimal time to get that tie wearing OG on the show!!!

[@lynnantoniamarley]

I am loving your enthusiasm Alec

[@asdfjoe123]

I'm 100 seconds into the video...and problems already? Anyhow...paused it: Can that little motor lift 30lbs? Yes. Option 1: Gears to get more torque and. Option 2: Pulleys to do the same. Option 3 (The best idea): Counter-weight the door with a mass that's 95% percent of the mass of the door.

[@TerrorBunney]

Don't forget that he can and should put a worm gear on the stepper motor. This way the motors don't have to work so hard to keep the door up in the air

[@crazyeyez1502]

First thing that came to mind when he mentioned the weight and questioned his little motors... Pulleys and snatch blocks.

[@devonglynn7755]

Ahh he beat me to it with the pulleys/snatch blocks. I was just watching the snatch blocks video by SmarterEveryDay a few days ago. Any one of these aforementioned options with the motors below the heat would solve both problems!

[@matthewtracy8744]

@@crazyeyez1502 keeping it simple is the key.

[@JacobAlheid]

Couple used motorcycle chains, weld on some counter weights, and sprockets, motor can move the doors, doors stop where they’re stopped, just need minimal framing to weld sprockets to

[@BGoldie34]

ALEC! Look into a counter weighting systems like how elevators work. That will take out the worry that the stepper motors will not lift it and reduce wear! It will also prevent the doors from slamming shut when the electronics fail, which they may if they have to hold up the weight constantly when it’s open.

[@gpegasusm]

Alec: Counter weight the doors so the servos don’t have to hold the weight. If you rely on pulleys alone to handle the weight, it might be too slow to lift and lower.

[@thisbymaster]

Seeing the joy in your face when you finished your first pass of a program reminded me of the first time did the same. Then the crushing defeat when you realized you forgot so much stuff.

[@Muhsaft86]

If the design had counter weights he wouldnt need to mess around with steppers. Also, dont forget the limiting switches.

[@Polar_Ted]

It's pulley driven to adding weights on the cable down line is still a option.

[@Muhsaft86]

@@capelectronics in theory yes, but I guess you have never used them in practice.

[@shadows_assassin3131]

Hi Alec, current mechatronic engineer here, building an Arduino circuit. Just a note about those pin cables on the breadboard; the internals & ends break, bend etc pretty easily. Looks alot neater & cleaner when you use singlecore pathwayed cable ;) easier to follow too.

[@Scubadog_]

I feel like this might be a little over-engineered, but I appreciate the enthusiasm.

[@andyiliff7793]

For your first crack at programming electronics I'd say you did a great job. Electronics and motors are super cool and fun. There are some things you may want to address before moving forward with your design (i.e. pulley material, interlocks/safety/limit switches for motors, etc.), but that's all part of the engineering process. Great progress! Merry Christmas to youand yours and the team!

[@0num4]

Alec: "What do you think, little motor, can you lift 30 lbs.?" Archimedes: "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."

[@_bluespider5470]

Hey Alec, with what you learned, what you will learn and your talent at building stuff and dodging problems, you'll have ability to build an incredible cnc plasma cutter such as the one colinfurze owns 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

[@kyleduddleston4123]

"SNATCH BLOCK!!!" -Destin from Smarter Every Day 🤣🤣🤣

[@rocketeer8719]

What I love about this channel is how both Alec and us learn new things all the time

[@SlipperyCouch1]

I feel like a $50 winch with a foot pedal would be a lot more simple...

[@tyrelirwin]

@ 11:25 OH YEAH, THE ALEC STEELE SHOW IS BACK, BABY!!

[@jellyninnja101]

To get both motors to work you'll need an if statement at the top of the code checking that both buttons are pressed at the same time. Then adding the code that makes them turn in each direction. The reason they both don't work is because it gets 'stuck' running one of the sections of code and can't activate the other part. Good luck!

[@jellyninnja101]

Happy to write or walk you through how to write the code, looks awesome!

[@deaconfield1648]

Looking good so far I don't care how long it takes to finish this I will wait as I love you guys you're my favourite forging channel I could watch you for hours keep up the good work and keep forging thank you

[@DerLaCroix1]

Worm gear! If anything on this setup fails (power, arduino, motor, cable) , you will have a 30 lbs door dropping on whatever happens to be underneath. Also, you could make the door with fibrewool insulation and only a little bit of refractory cement for health reasons, to save on weight

[@AlecSteele]

Here's the code!! :) // Alec's 2 motor, 2 button program!--- // named constants for the switch and motor pins; int switchPin1 = 2; // The number of the Counter Clockwise pin int reversePin1 = 3; // The number of the clockwise pin int driverPUL1 = 7; // PUL- pin int driverDIR1 = 6; // DIR- pin int switchPin2 = 8; // The number of the Counter Clockwise pin int reversePin2 = 9; // The number of the clockwise pin int driverPUL2 = 12; // PUL- pin int driverDIR2 = 11; // DIR- pin int spd = A0; // Potentiometer // Variables int pd = 500; // Pulse Delay period boolean setdir = LOW; // Set Direction int switchState = 0; // Variable for reading the switch's status int switchState2 = 0; // Variable for reading the switch's status void setup() { // Initialise the MotorPin as an output: pinMode(driverPUL1, OUTPUT); pinMode(driverDIR1, OUTPUT); // Initialise the switchPin as an input: pinMode(switchPin1, INPUT); pinMode(reversePin1, INPUT); // Initialise the MotorPin as an output: pinMode(driverPUL2, OUTPUT); pinMode(driverDIR2, OUTPUT); // Initialise the switchPin as an input: pinMode(switchPin2, INPUT); pinMode(reversePin2, INPUT); } void loop() { //11111read the state of the switch value: switchState = digitalRead(switchPin1); switchState2 = digitalRead(switchPin2); //Check if CC switch is pressed. if (switchState == LOW) { // Turn Motor on pd = map((analogRead(spd)),0,1023,2000,50); digitalWrite(driverDIR1,setdir); digitalWrite(driverPUL1,HIGH); delayMicroseconds(pd); digitalWrite(driverPUL1,LOW); delayMicroseconds(pd); } else { //read the state of the switch value: switchState = digitalRead(reversePin1); //Check if CW switch is pressed. if (switchState == LOW) { // Turn Motor on pd = map((analogRead(spd)),0,1023,2000,50); digitalWrite(driverDIR1,!setdir); digitalWrite(driverPUL1,HIGH); delayMicroseconds(pd); digitalWrite(driverPUL1,LOW); delayMicroseconds(pd); } //Check if CC switch is pressed. if (switchState2 == LOW) { // Turn Motor on pd = map((analogRead(spd)),0,1023,2000,50); digitalWrite(driverDIR2,setdir); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,HIGH); delayMicroseconds(pd); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,LOW); delayMicroseconds(pd); } else { //read the state of the switch value: switchState = digitalRead(reversePin2); //Check if CW switch is pressed. if (switchState == LOW) { // Turn Motor on pd = map((analogRead(spd)),0,1023,2000,50); digitalWrite(driverDIR2,!setdir); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,HIGH); delayMicroseconds(pd); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,LOW); delayMicroseconds(pd); // Turn motor off. digitalWrite(driverDIR2,setdir); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,LOW); delayMicroseconds(pd); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,LOW); delayMicroseconds(pd); } } } }

[@lterego]

Proposed changed code... didn't test it, but hopefully easy to understand. // named constants for the switch and motor pins; int switchPin1 = 2; // The number of the Counter Clockwise pin int reversePin1 = 3; // The number of the clockwise pin int driverPUL1 = 7; // PUL- pin int driverDIR1 = 6; // DIR- pin int switchPin2 = 8; // The number of the Counter Clockwise pin int reversePin2 = 9; // The number of the clockwise pin int driverPUL2 = 12; // PUL- pin int driverDIR2 = 11; // DIR- pin int spd = A0; // Potentiometer // Variables // FIXME: this seems like PWM drive. 250 high 250 low is the same // as 500 high 500 low (50% fill). 70% high is faster, 30% slower // I will not change this tho, but right now might not work properly. int pd = 500; // Pulse Delay period boolean setdir = LOW; // Set Direction // ADDED boolean reverse1, reverse2; // reverse direction. used with XOR int switchState = 0; // Variable for reading the switch's status int switchState2 = 0; // Variable for reading the switch's status void setup() { // Initialise the MotorPin as an output: pinMode(driverPUL1, OUTPUT); pinMode(driverDIR1, OUTPUT); // Initialise the switchPin as an input: pinMode(switchPin1, INPUT); pinMode(reversePin1, INPUT); // Initialise the MotorPin as an output: pinMode(driverPUL2, OUTPUT); pinMode(driverDIR2, OUTPUT); // Initialise the switchPin as an input: pinMode(switchPin2, INPUT); pinMode(reversePin2, INPUT); } void loop() { //11111read the state of the switch value: switchState = digitalRead(switchPin1); switchState2 = digitalRead(switchPin2); // ALSO moved //read the state of the switch value: reverse1 = digitalRead(reversePin1); reverse2 = digitalRead(reversePin2); // NEW, moved pd = map((analogRead(spd)),0,1023,2000,50); // switch 1 pressed if (switchState == LOW) { digitalWrite(driverDIR1,setdir ^ reverse1); // XOR with reverse1 digitalWrite(driverPUL1,HIGH); } // switch 2 pressed if (switchState2 == LOW) { digitalWrite(driverDIR2,setdir ^ reverse2); digitalWrite(driverPUL2,HIGH); } // same speed for both, if either is on. high duty cycle if(switchState==LOW || switchState2==LOW) { delayMicroseconds(pd); } if (switchState == LOW) { // if not really needed digitalWrite(driverPUL1,LOW); } if (switchState2 == LOW) { // if not really needed digitalWrite(driverPUL2,LOW); } // low duty cycle if(switchState==LOW || switchState2==LOW) { delayMicroseconds(pd); } // FIXME: might add a small delay here, to avoid busy wait. uncomment following // only happens when motors are off // else { delayMicroseconds(100); } }

[@rancorusia]

Someone give him smarter everydays switch block video

[@chdmorrison]

Snatch block

[@TheLilram2100]

I was thinking the same thing Alec: “this door is heavy” Me, jumping in frame: “SNATCHBLOCK!”

[@7head7metal7]

Good job! Blink an LED first, and use off-the-shelf and certified components when dealing with mains power. It was quite enjoyable to see your legendary enthusiasm even spread to electronics and programming.

[@WorldOfZeroDevelopment]

It might be a bit of extra work, but if your interested we have what's called "Source Control" that allows anyone to browse your code, suggest modifications or copy it for their own projects. This might be a handy way to get feedback or loop in remotely located experts.. These are typically free for public use. Some common providers are GitHub and GitLab.

[@CCCfeinman55]

So after my comment about pilots last week, I had a change of heart. The issue is that Stepper motors don’t have much holding torque (the torque that holds the same position once the Arduino is no longer asking it to move, but to stay put). If you counterbalance the weight of the door and use a double-wide pulley on the motor, you only need torque for moving the door. Wrap the cable around the motor pulley two or three times to act like a capstan. The tension of cable wrapped around it will produce enough friction to ensure it moves the cable. The counter balance will double the weight, but will use the motor to its best advantage. Other option is to buy Technic Servos. They have integral controllers, use the stepper output (direction and steps) to simplify applications but offer HUGE holding torque. They’re also more expensive, starting at any $250. One for your app with a capstan or spool is abt $430. Since you already have the steppers, my vote is for the counterbalance over a “block and tackle” arrangement. Also, as someone else wisely stated, limit switches will save you from deep, abiding grief later. I prefer the “no contact” type (proximity sensor). They are VERY good at sensing steel. With tabs welded to two points on the same side of the rig, you can get away with one sensor for each door. I can send sketches, if this is too vague. Carry on, boys! This is really stretching your creative and technical muscles. Good stuff!

[@macuser7080]

“Snatch Block!!” -Smarter Everyday

[@Marisol1711]

Ah, as an electrical engineering student, watching Alec having fun making his arduino work gives me great pleasure. Reminds me of my electronics laboratories

[@eliaslindqvist54]

"If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing."

[@Ethendel]

Pro-tip from a machninist :) If you want your aluminium to machine alot nicer with better finishes/less galling on carbide tool-tips, use Kerosene as your lubricant. Same for drilling it as well, kero in a spray bottle is your friend. Absolutely love your work mate and love the constant plugging of our Aussie tools! Keep up the quality!

[@martinrules209]

Alexa open the forge doors!

[@davidwhitehead3085]

Omg. Sponsership!!

[@TXHeat1776]

Playing music by The Doors.

[@ivanheffner2587]

“I’m sorry, Martin. I’m afraid I can’t do that.”

[@doubledarefan]

@@TXHeat1776 Or songs about doors. The Door by Al Denson. or Shut De Do.

[@ChrisGraham00]

@@TXHeat1776 come on baby light my fire

[@crazyeyez1502]

Definitely glad Alec figured out to use some pulleys. As soon as he mentioned the weight and questioned his little motors, i thought of pulleys and snatch blocks. 🤙👍🏻

[@Exstaz]

Add end stops to. That way you can’t go to far up or to far down.

[@rodm4151]

Alec, add a bumper switch to the bottom of each door and adjust the switch point so that the cables don't slack out and add an open limit for each door. Add inputs for dual or single operation of each door off of the same same foot pedal switch input. Also add an E-stop push button somewhere just in case a door limit fails to trigger.

[@csours]

I'm sure you've already thought of this, but COUNTERWEIGHTS! I think you want a slight bias to keeping the doors closed, so maybe have the counterweight be a few ounces less than the doors.

[@juliomiranda1438]

Hello Alex, just for future projects, there are ceramic fiber board, and paper (3mm and 6mm) and both of them are extremely light and the insulation is really good. And there is ceramic fiber sleeve, for cables, so that it doesn't burn them

[@zkhydro4985]

Any motor would work if you use wait for it..... counter weights. Bam

[@taylorsharp5928]

beat me to it!

[@Xumatro]

I love how excited you get when you get a motor to turn

[@RecoilOperated]

me: design a mechanical linkage like a foot actuated trash can. alec: COMPUTER FORGE!

[@barryeaton8907]

Victor Frankenstein 1818 "Its Alive..." Alec you crack me up. Keep up the fun and have a great Christmas.

[@skyredsky7062]

you need to ad another conditon. currently you just have button one or button two but you need (button one) or (button two) or (button one and button two) I hope this helps Lukas (germany)

[@themanofquagga]

there are 4 buttons though, that'll be a pretty long if else chain. It'd probably be simpler to write a single function MoveDoor(bool door, bool direction) or whatever the arduino equivalent would be and just have that function be called instead, then you wouldnt need to ccopy the same code 4 times or more, just one switch statement and a single function

[@skyredsky7062]

@@themanofquagga but i want to make it easy

[@timmymoore4269]

Hay alec. I love the scottish claymore videos so much and i have seen your abilities in jewelry/ stonesetting excel and i would love to see you biuld another with the knowledge you have retained since.

[@rlogan771]

Alex, install yourself a carbon monoxide sensor on uour forge aswell. You cant afford to muck arround with Co build up.

[@andrewconlon3825]

I love watching your work. Can you do a video on the difference between gas and induction forges

[@jarnovdhurk5600]

Why didnt you use the same door technic they use on a steam locomotive on the firebox

[@smartgorilla]

Exactly....

[@charliexoxox]

SNATCH BLOCK!! I watched SmarterEveryDay’s vid on that a few days ago and from the since you weighed the door i knew you should use the mechanical advantage of pulleys!

[@jesperberg8817]

I don´t think the arduino is having a problem driving two motors at the same time. It may be that it pause the code in a way when a button is pressed. Maybe an if statement like if both button 1 and 3 is pressed start both motors.

[@MrFergusMartin]

Hi Alec, for the coding you would either need to thread your processes (allowing for 2 or more things to happen at once) or to have two seperate processes running at the same time, one to react to each button :)

[@jonboyd9186]

A 4:1 block and tackle pulley rig would drop the weight of the doors to 8.25 on the doors. Whelp you just got to that part.

[@ScottM1973]

6:25 The new motto for the whole shop right there! "I'm just shocked at what you can learn just muddling through something"

[@Lunas2525]

Why not make a door out of fire bricks rather than refractory and K.I.S.S. it Alec Keep It Simple Stupid. A pulley with pair of steel cables one side is connected to a foot bar the other is a offset weight 20lbs of weight would give the foot bar a 8lb weight to lift. He could even use this to fix the weight issue on his doors. send the cables out like T connect one side to a offset weight. The purpose of this weight is to reduce the weight of lifting the door as long as the door is heavier than that weight it will go back down. You could reduce the weight to almost nothing to make it easy on the motors.

[@Lockpickingblacksmith]

Yeah, I was just going to suggest a counterweight

[@oliverklotz6064]

Or use a Gearbox

[@741598632]

Yep, counter weight the doors and those beefy steppers will have no trouble moving them

[@Lunas2525]

@@oliverklotz6064 counter weight forged out of cast iron... or Damascus foot pedal forged... cast bronze...

[@PaulRickeyMays]

I agree... Adding complication and tech to a simple lift gate will cause future issues... A simple mechanical foot peddle with a ratio based cable and counter balance is simple and fool proof... And yes I am an Engineer...

[@marty01957]

Merry Christmas to Alec, Will And your families! Hope you all have a wonderful and blessed day!

[@walt9234]

We have gone from no forge doors to the single most overly complex doors in history 😂 what happened to keep it simple stupid

[@gabrielespino6822]

Hey Alex I think what you cando to reduce the load of your motor is that you can put a preload in the door with a pullye system or maybe you could introduce it to your system somehow but basically you can use weights to help reduce the amount of work needed to lift the door

[@hanro7430]

This series will be 100 parts ending on 1 april 2020

[@jacksugar_]

5:46 Did he just say "Anti-Clockwise". Are we all gonna pretend it's not supposed to be "Counter-clockwise". Alec has such a fun accent

[@suwu3049]

Jackson Mugar so God damn true

[@majster_styl7712]

I have never seen something this over-engineered in my whole life

[@akosszennyai5814]

I was in literal awe when i saw how much useless parts there were in the circuitry

[@Rain-ti7gj]

He's having fun though, so I think it's great!

[@davidbumpus3457]

@@akosszennyai5814 Cut Alec a break. He just started learning this stuff. His primary skill is hitting red hot steel with a big ass hammer (which he's damn good at btw) so give him a hot minute to figure out which parts he can do without.

[@davidbumpus3457]

Sometimes over-engineered things can be really awesome if you do it on purpose.

[@jacobbenns6090]

And its beautiful

[@withoutthinking3703]

Love your stuff super interesting on the motors and controls pushing your comfort zones love it

[@DatBoiOrly]

Hmm I'm surprised you haven't added an ignition pack to your forge yet lighting it with a torch come on laddy make your life easier

[@Larry-325]

Great project Alec. I am a big fan of a counter weight!👍👍

[@Nick-xm1ux]

"We then proceeded to forget to make forge doors."

[@beni2094]

Remember when there was blacksmithing and live shows and it was interesting. A motor spinning wow!