ALh no start

[@chads8720]

Been is the trade for.many years now...and have been the "guy" basically know enough to be dangerous on them old VW's...and I appreciate guys like yourself putting great info out there for people...because sometimes it's hard to come by...great work and videos dude...wish you will from nova Scotia Canada 🇨🇦

[@CoolAirVw]

thanks for the complement

[@EXOVCDS]

Ross-Tech has a note on their website about "generic scan tools" not showing all codes. No crank signal should set a fault quite quickly (assuming the customer tried several times / cranked several time).

[@CoolAirVw]

yea, I agree. Lots of codes dont show up on generic code checkers.

[@robogrujo]

Thx for this video , it really helped me out . Had exactly the same problem as you describe in the video and went and bought a new relay , and the old car started without problem . Thx a lot and continue the good work .

[@CoolAirVw]

your welcome.

[@tristenoberlender9685]

Relay?

[@iankelly2110]

Keep up the good work i no its time consuming but its good content thanks for sharing just on a binge of your videos i have no work today :)

[@CoolAirVw]

Are you a mechanic? Work with Vw's? Tdi's?

[@iankelly2110]

@@CoolAirVw I am and I do work a lot on vw I am in Ireland so along with Ford Volkswagen would be the biggest sellers over here the vw last for ever but big changes coming in Ireland the government want to stop production of gas and diesel engines from 2030 and force people into electric and hybrid vehicles.

[@dmcdow]

Good to hear failure of crank sensor is rare on the ALH. I'll keep this video in mind if I have similar symptoms. Please keep doing these informative videos.

[@CoolAirVw]

@@dmcdow thanks for watching.

[@davesterl]

Yeah i do the shotgun when the component is chaep and a common failure item. Your data pids would show the lack of rpm with no codes set. I wonder if the autel would have shown the stored code

[@CoolAirVw]

we want to use it more on Vw's but its a little awkward as to identify "stuff" it asks bunches of more questions that sometimes we cant answer.

[@gernestpeters7603]

I'm guessing here but wouldn't the crank position sensor generate an a/c voltage signal? If it does then you could just measure for a/c voltage with a volt meter while cranking. I diagnosed a rpm signal generator on a diesel engine in a Steiger tractor using that method. Just a thought. I'm really enjoying your videos by the way!

[@CoolAirVw]

That would give you "some" information, and might be conclusive enough. It would depend on how it failed. Oscilloscope is the right tool.

[@askingforafriend6115]

Yes, you are correct .All thats needed to check this is a multi meter set to measure ac voltage as this a speed sensor obviously you would need to crank the engine create voltage.There is no need for a scope for this.This engine is not a common rail, it is timed internally inside the pump and in turned timed to the engine mechanically with a timing belt.There is no need for a crank position sensor.

[@mikegamer6104]

I have a 2000 beetle a LH, if the crank sensor is bad, will it still spit fuel out of the injectors if you crack the nut when cranking?

[@CoolAirVw]

maybe a bit. Crank sensor will almost always trigger a code.

[@CarpetCareIncFairfield]

Hello, I have a 98 vw beetle 1,9 alh. My question, hard start when hot. However when i disconnect engine coolant temp sensor (which i just replaced) the engine starts right up? Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

[@CoolAirVw]

I don't know what is causing your issue but, unplugging the sensor changing operation is not a diagnostic technique. inop or unplugged coolant temp sensor makes glow plugs cycle longer. diagnosis would consist of tests not unplugging sensors.

[@PNW_Car_Mods]

I am getting a P0725 on a no start hard start on a 2002 ALH A4. Once it runs it barely runs and white smokes horribly. How does P0322 differ from P0725? Thank you for the informative videos CoolAir.

[@CoolAirVw]

out of time or a fuel restriction. Try a substitue fuel source to the IP and verify timing. Watch this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/ramQhXx4ZZaro68

[@PNW_Car_Mods]

@@CoolAirVw Thank you for taking the time to reply CoolAir. I have been binge watching and thumbs upping a ton of your videos. Thomas' videos as well. I will check out your other video this evening if I haven't already watched. I may post up a video of what this thing is doing today as well. Thanks again.

[@CoolAirVw]

@@PNW_Car_Mods cool! Thanks for watching.

[@PNW_Car_Mods]

@@CoolAirVw CoolAir if you could spare a moment of your time I want to verify something from you. I setup a temporary fuel source using a clear pint bottle straight to the inlet on the IP. When it starts it will suck that down in less than 30 seconds shut off before drawing air of course. Is that because it is returning most of it back to the cars tank through the return? I want to ask you if that is normal and make sure I'm not flooding or washing the cylinders before I proceed with leaving it running. Also the fuel is absolutely bad in the tank. I vacuum pulled a pint from the outlet at the filter and it looks like old soda or whiskey and smells weird. I'll be purging the lines and cleaning out the tank. :( P.S. I forgot to mention that this car has been sitting for 3-4 years.

[@CoolAirVw]

@@PNW_Car_Mods Yes, it returns to the tank. You can reroute your return line into your clear pint bottle.

[@easymac79]

This video has me excited. Nearly every symptom matches, when priming, I was getting a dribble, instead of 6"+ spirt. The glow plug light comes on for a second, then shuts off (tested relay 109 on the bench anyways, good). I have another CEL code, p1252 PDS1 error, I cannot figure out what that means.. I can start the car on ether, tuned it in vagcom to 3.2mg/str. but it behaves like it's in limp mode. Gonna check in the morning when I have the patience to fire up my laptop, see what codes vagcom says, I just got the cable for it a couple days ago, prior code tests were from a bluetooth dongle to phone app. I don't have a spare crankshaft sensor unfortunately. The tach displays 0RPM when cranking, but after starting, it will display after a second or two. I'm thinking this may mean it's intermittent, maybe a corroded connection. What I don't understand: If the crank sensor is bad, and the computer doesn't intend to inject any fuel, how does it still work to prime the pump? This all began when I replaced the side o-ring on the pump head and it wouldn't fire afterwards. It turns out the leak was actually from the screw plug and when I finally fixed that yesterday I got the injectors to shoot fuel in the air like they used to. But the stupid thing STILL will not fire on it's own. I was out of starter fluid, I got a fresh can, I'm all but certain it will start, but I doubt it will have improved. It SHOULD start on it's own, with or without glow plugs, it's not particularly cold. I'm thinking a total loss of compression, but I don't understand why? All I touched was the pump head and I took all precautions and read the instructions on DieselGeek, even had a special bolt to prevent pulling out too far and dropping the all important shim. If the crank sensor troubleshooting doesn't lead to improvement, I'm taking it to a shop, I don't understand diesels enough, but I don't want to scrap the car - it ran fine before I messed with it, ecological disaster ignored (literally a faucet of leaking diesel).

[@joseperez-ru4zu]

Good afternoon, I have a problem with my jetta a4 1.9 tdi 2001, to start it I put starter fluid because only then it starts, after starting the engine it is unstable, the start of the actual injection varies a lot and the deviation of the injection quantity in cylinders it is, cylinder 1 = 1.88mg / str, cylinder 2 = 1.88, cylinder 3 = -1.88, cylinder 4 = -1.88. can you help me please, THANK YOU.

[@tommysf-4phantom754]

Thanks for sharing I have a 1Z that is crank no start it’s not the 109 relay I’ve checked it when I turn key fuel shut off on injection pumps gets 12v for just about 1 second then nothing

[@CoolAirVw]

I think what your describing is normal. Does it keep 12v while cranking?

[@tommysf-4phantom754]

No it doesn’t get 12v wile cranking and it only gets 12v for about 1 second when turning key to on position and that’s it.

[@CoolAirVw]

@@tommysf-4phantom754 Double check.

[@tommysf-4phantom754]

@@CoolAirVw I’ll look at it again this weekend and let you know. Thanks for the help..

[@askingforafriend6115]

This is not a crank position sensor, you seem to think they are interchangeable ,they are not.This is a speed sensor.This engine is timed mechanically and thus needs no position sensor.This sensor works by counting ring gear teeth not working off of a reluctor.

[@CoolAirVw]

So, .......... I wonder how the computer determines position of the cam and crank as it adjusts injection timing? Well let me answer that. It determines how far to adjust injection timing based on the "crank position sensor" or "engine rpm sensor" if you prefer. I think its ok to "group" devices together that are almost identical in design and function and mechanics and people do it constantly. But, ALH absolutely does NOT read "engine speed" or crank position, off ring gear teeth (assuming by ring gear teeth) you mean on the flywheel.

[@CoolAirVw]

Not just this engine but all engines are "timed" mechanically. If by timed you mean cam to crank timing. Timing belt, timing chain or timing gears. But also, almost all engines are "timed" electronically, and by this I mean injection timing. Yes, the ALH injection timing is controlled electronically. The computer sees the signal on the needle lift sensor on the #3 injector and compares it to our sensor in question. And of course it is able to adjust injection timing advancing and retarding the injection event in relation to the crank shaft position. This is why I think the terms "engine speed sensor" and "Crank position sensor" can be used interchangeably and your comment is simply splitting hairs.

[@CoolAirVw]

Oh, and the computer is able to trigger trouble codes when the injection timing is incorrect, so obviously it is able to see "crank position" through this sensor.

[@askingforafriend6115]

@@CoolAirVw go change an o2 sensor crackhead.

[@skips4847]

I’ve got a 2002 tdi not wanting to start what do you think could be common things that go wrong glowplug light is coming on and off as it should and also I tried priming the pump and checking the injectors do you think it could be cps or relay 109

[@CoolAirVw]

I dont know what "cps" is???? Relay 109 would cause no check engine light, and no communication between scan tool and engine computer such as in the following video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHSTpYF9a8yGr6M

[@FreddyRockz]

I got same thing with a beetle no codes just doesn't start

[@RyhnoMight]

Where is a good place to get VCDS reader for these TDi's?

[@CoolAirVw]

ross-tech.com or cascadegerman.com

[@tristenoberlender9685]

Can a needle lift sensor do this?

[@CoolAirVw]

make a not start? Maybe.

[@tristenoberlender9685]

@@CoolAirVw mines cranking with a bit of white smoke coming out of exhaust but it’s starting for two seconds and dying, the tach moves so I don’t think it’s a crank position sensor

[@CoolAirVw]

@@tristenoberlender9685 Is Immo light flashing?

[@tristenoberlender9685]

@@CoolAirVw No sir, in acc position with key it doesn’t show, and it doesn’t show after cranking, the #3 injector passed an ohm test with flying colors too

[@CoolAirVw]

@@tristenoberlender9685 What ohms did it read? Is that a good test?

[@lapazreyes]

Can you show how to bleed a car?

[@CoolAirVw]

Bleed brakes? Bleed injectors? Here's the latter kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3PdnIB7l8t0qLM

[@CoolAirVw]

Here's one of my video's that has "blood" on the thumbnail. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYOrnp13eZh9fsU Maybe not what you mean though.

[@dinobrad6813]

I have a t4 2.5 AJT, I have just had the injectors over halled and I've replaced the cam and buckets due to a worn lobe. I have set all the timing, and have access to vcds, before I return the laptop is there any simple tweets or adjustments I can do with vcds before I return it. I was a vw trained tech so I am familiar with this kind of thing but maindealer laptops are some what locked down and I'm also not overly familiar with the 2.5 ajt engine. Like I say we never had the opportunity to tweet settings as a main dealer. Tweeks and optimization of engine while I got vcds in my hands. Anybody got anything for me cheers

[@CoolAirVw]

We dont have that engine here. I have no clue.

[@c0rb3a]

Nice job. one thing is bothering me. I have a 1.9 ALH and the injection pump is making a strange noise: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2nVqaKAprtqmZY could be this due to the constant bubles that are circulating in the fuel line? or maybe the roller bearings inside the pump? thank you,

[@user-dn6qy1ou1f]

I’m having a no start on my alh golf. Have good fuel flow at injectors and asv is wired open. In vcds I have 315 engine speed and injector quantity goes up to and holds at 50. Does that mean they aren’t opening?

[@CoolAirVw]

No, I think that means its not starting. Engine spin normally or does it sound extra fast? TB broken?

[@user-dn6qy1ou1f]

@@CoolAirVw actually it sounds extremely fast. Checked and tb is not broken

[@CoolAirVw]

@@user-dn6qy1ou1f If its fast that may indicate low compression. TB jumps a few teeth, pistons smack the valves, engine now has no compression, starter spins easily. TB doesn't have to break to be out of time. Do a good visual and see if there are some teeth stripped on the belt, or pull the valve cover and look for spider cracks or "upward bends" in the lifters. See the following video at 7:22. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWPRlIeGeKlklbc

[@user-dn6qy1ou1f]

@@CoolAirVw I have done both. Belt is good and saw no cracks or dents on the lifters. I’m starting to wonder if I somehow timed the pump 180 out and didn’t notice. Oil and filter were also changed. Oil had no visible metal with a magnet. And filter was cut open and compressed out oil. Nothing out of the ordinary in the filter either. I won’t have time to get to the car for a week. I’ll test compression and go over timing again

[@CoolAirVw]

@@user-dn6qy1ou1f Strange that you didn't mention this problem started after tinning the pump. If you missed the hole that the pin goes in it wont start. I've seen a guy do that before.