All About the Olympus OM-4 (yes, it's awesome)

#photography #filmcamera #filmphotography #cameratechniques #film #olympus #olympuscamera #ilfordhp5 #ilfordfilm
We'll be heading back to 1983 to do a deep dive into the fabulous Olympus OM-4 - the de facto flagship of the OM camera line - and the first camera to offer Multi-Spot metering as an option. We'll go over all the controls and metering methods then take it on a shoot on a hot, humid Georgia day. Spoiler alert: the camera rightfully earns it's place in the upper echelon of classic film cameras.
You can check out high-res versions of the photos from the shoot here:
jastesaphoto.s...
Enjoy!
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[@gregwardecke]

1983 … sigh. Graduation from high school. I had a 1973 Fiat 850 Sport Spyder and I was living large with my Pentax ME Super and Tri-X for cheap. I appreciate the quality of your videos. Your script and narration is well thought out. Thanks for another quality video.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Always my pleasure! Don’t get me started on Italian convertibles…my second car was an ‘86 Alfa Spider Veloce. That’s one car I really do miss.

[@hyau512]

Thanks for the video - brings back lots of memories! The OM-4 was the first camera I bought with my own money in 1988. This was after deciding that spot metering was the most accurate exposure solution available. Apart from Olympus and the Canon T90, I don't think any Nikon, Pentax or Minolta models had spot metering. I really wanted an OM-3 but they were pretty rare so snapped up a used OM-4 instead. Around that time I was influenced by Ansel Adams' zone-system for visualising how to expose a scene. Hence, my OM-4 was mostly in manual exposure mode with its superb bar-graph display & aforementioned spot meter. I then spot metered a key part of a picture, deciding its exposure-zone. Really learned a lot about that side of photography - and I occasionally still use spot-metering on my modern digital camera when it gets too confused.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching! I agree that this type of metering goes hand in hand with zone system techniques. At least it puts you in a similar frame of mind where you’re actually paying attention to the individual tones of the scene. That’s never a bad thing. And you’re right, Nikon and Pentax never offered multi-spot metering. Minolta did (via one of their Creative Expansion Cards) for most of their “i” and “Xi” series. Canon offered it again in the EOS-3 and EOS-1V. And there may have been a couple of medium format cameras (Hassy and Rollei) I think.

[@thechannel6363]

I don't think there was a better camera that "taught" the Zone-System than the OM-4! It was designed with that approach to photography. Once it clicked with the user it all became so fluid to get the perfect exposure.

[@hifienthusiast8768]

Another GREAT video!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Glad you enjoyed it! Many thanks!

[@nilssieper6648]

A very very nice video about this camera! Impressive that you presented the number of features so well and compact! Just like I commented under your Video about the T90, I own a OM4ti. I sold all my Canon cameras (just my Canon P is still here) and lenses (and my T90 as well) because I knew that I won’t use them, if a have the Om4. I can say, that the difference I terms of battery drain between the early and the upgraded models is massive! The Battery’s in my Om4 stay good for more than half a year. And I use it multiple times a week. Something that a don’t want to miss is the grip! The Camera really fells different with it. The price to get the original one separately a crazy! Just keep your eyes open for a good deal on an OM2SP with it and some lenses maybe, sell all you don’t need and put it on your OM4! Mutch nicer to hold on to. Not as good as the extremely nice grip on the Pentax LX but is helps a lot. My biggest "Problem" with the Om4 is that you don’t have your aperture Info in the Viewfinder. It’s not the end of the world of course. And I really like the kind of (fells like it to me) artistic way to think about your shot. First what aperture that you want to use and everything else after that in the Camera. But it would just be nice to have the info as well. Like this I need to take the camera from my eye a bit more to check the selected aperture. I just have 3 lenses for my OM4. Not like the massive amount that I had for Canon before that. The 28mm 2.8 which is super small and nice to use. The 50mm 1.4 in its latest version (is really a good bit better than the old silver nose version, I had both) and the 90mm f2 macro, this one is my dream lens on this system. On canon fd my most used lens was the 90mm 2.5 macro from Tokina. I loved this Lens massively but the Olympus 90mm f2.0 is even better! It really is just an amazing piece of glass. The only Lens that I would by as well is the 180mm 2.8 because I liked my 200mm 2.8 Canon nFd a lot. But I really think that you don’t need more than this tree lenses! 28mm 2.8, 50mm 1.4, and the 100mm 2.8. Mutch more for the dollar compared to the 90mm f2 but if you get this one, you’re going to have a good time! To shoot with an OM4 just works for me. The system really makes sense if you use it a bit. And I really mean that! The layout of the buttons is just nice! Just the Shadow and highlight buttons are a bit hard to reach but I tend to use just the Spot function anyways. I think as a conclusion I can say that this camera is very niche. It really is not something for everyone. But if it fits your style of shooting, and you put some nice lenses on it...boy is this camera a performer. And so much better for my neck than the Canon F1 new that I used most of the Time before the OM4. Greetings from Germany!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you! I did look at getting the grip for this, and you are correct! The prices I saw were just about as much as I gave for the camera! But thanks for the advice about the OM-2SP. I’ve recently looked at those, so I’ll keep my eyes peeled. Not having the aperture info in the viewfinder is a slight inconvenience, I’d say. Much better than having none at all like the OM-1. But I could get used to it. And using it as you suggest - like an aperture-priority system - makes a lot of sense. I do really like how the info in the viewfinder is laid out. I think your advice on the lenses is sound, also. My favorite “kit” of lenses for any system, really, is a 50, a 28 and a 100 or 135. One thing about these Zuiko lenses is that they’ve always been more expensive than their peers. All vintage gear prices these days are on the rise, but these for Olympus are still running a bit higher. Many, many thanks for the comment and the feedback!

[@CBortlearts]

I had no idea that the OM4 had this level of metering. I was a poor soldier in the 80's shooting a canon T50 as my first camera in the uber cool program mode 100% of the time and remember being excited by the fact that it had a lighted meter instead of the mechanical one. This camera would have blown my mind then. I always wanted another T50 for nestalgia and was always yerning for the T70 and T90. I'm definitely going to look into one these. Thanks for the highly detailed info on it. I shoot folders mostly but I like an old dslr from the 80's once in a while.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I agree. This design and viewfinder would’ve seemed like magic back then. As for the Canons, a T70 is still a pretty good choice with all of it’s exposure modes. But the cream of the crop is definitely the T90 since it has the same type of metering system as the OM-4. The T90’s multi-spot won’t work in manual exposure mode, but it’s pretty flawless in aperture- and shutter- priority.

[@philmtx3fr]

@@vintagecameradigest I confirm t90 is a beast … just killed by autofocus . Very nice body to shoot with and now at a decent price on eBay

[@TristanColgate]

The other nice thing in the viewfinder is that there's an indication as to whether you have exposure comp set. That has saved me more than once!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Yes! This is definitely a nice addition to the other info there.

[@mutley3136]

I have one coming. Initially I thought, can I be bothered with all that BUT your spot results with contrasting light were fantastic. Subscribed,👍

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks for the sub! I think a lot of people are a bit put off by the idea. But in use, it rarely disappoints and is hardly a chore. I think you’ll love it.

[@EPeltzer]

Your explanations and demonstrations of using this with the actual viewfinder view is just superb. Along with your patient and detailed explanations of actual use in photo shoots. I'm learning a very great deal about these old cameras through your videos.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you so much! I do think including the actual viewfinder - especially on a rather complicated camera - is important because it's tied so closely to the user experience. It's definitely worth the effort. Cheers!

[@1973sonvis]

Great video, thanks a lot. I was suddenly struck by the lightning bolt of nostalgia and had to listen through the Synchronicity album once again. I had almost forgotten how amazing The Police's music was. The soundtrack to my youth! 👍🏻

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching! As for myself, I was a complete Police fanatic. That music prompted me to learn to play bass and enjoy creating music for the last 40 years. I don’t know where I’d be without The Police and photography :-)) Cheers!

[@1973sonvis]

@@vintagecameradigest I was also 16 in ‘83. I dreamt of a Pentax LX, but it was faaar beyond my reach. My father had a Nikkormat FT and a Nikon FM, but I was not allowed to touch them until I was a grown up man. I those days people cared about their possessions. Now I own my father’s cameras. And a Pentax LX. And a lot of cameras that our parents and grandparents had to work hard and save up for a long time to get. Keep up the good work on this channel! 😊👍🏻

[@vintagecameradigest]

I’m still dreaming of the Pentax LX :-))

[@gregwardecke]

@@vintagecameradigestI still think Sting is one of the premier bassist. Different types of music but Sting and Geddy Lee are two of my favorites.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Agreed! I can appreciate virtuosity for what it is. But I’ll take Sting, Geddy, Tony Levin and Pino Palladino any day.

[@kangag3]

Thanks for this review of the OM-4. I wasn't as familiar with this camera when it was being sold new, so it's great to see how great it was. My multi-spot meter of choice is in the Canon T90, and so I do have to offer one correction: the T90 can multi-spot meter in all automatic modes including Program. As long as the lens is set to A and the meter is set to SPOT, that feature along with highlight and shadow controls is available.

[@vintagecameradigest]

You are correct. I was mistaken on the T90. I have one, but it’s been a few months since I’ve shot with it. I was getting the Canon FD bodies mixed up in my mind with their Shutter-priority system being favored over Aperture-priority. And, well, it’s just a symptom of an aging mind. I do feel that the T90’s build-quality is a bit better than the OM-4. It feels better in the hand - maybe due to the Uber-ergonomic design, or maybe even the larger size is just more substantial. The OM-4 feels slightly more delicate but with the classic design cues. Both seem to be excellent cameras. Thanks for pointing at the errant info. And thanks for watching!

[@thechannel6363]

I've used an OM-4T since 1988, still have it and use it. I also worked at a camera store back in the day, selling all of the cameras you've mentioned including the OM-4. Nice job on the history and description of a camera that I know like the back of my hand. Nice video!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks so much! It is, indeed, a fine camera!

[@Naolslager]

Great video. Perhaps the best one yet. Thank you.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks! And thanks for watching!

[@avoututu]

I think the first OM camera to have aperture in the viewfinder was not the OM-4 but the OM-2, the first autoexpesure electronic in the range: it has a scale that shows when shooting in auto mode, and slides back to the edge to show only a match-needle when shooting manual. Congrats and thank you for this amazing video about an amazing camera, although flawed in the battery usage issue.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Correct. The OM-2 did show shutter speed info in the finder when in automatic mode. But then replaced that with the simple needle when in manual mode. If they could’ve just left that shutter info there for manual mode, too, I would be even happier. But I’m assuming there were engineering issues at play that disallowed that. In any case, the OM-2 is another fine camera!

[@TimGreigPhotography]

Bought apair of these ij Germany back in the day. Upgrade from my Om1s, which I still have. They are a beautiful camera

[@vintagecameradigest]

They are. All the OMs are bit classy with well thought-out design.

[@ianbromehead1110]

Great useful video. The only thing is clearly the metering is the reason to look at this beast, but I don't understand how you are taking these multiple spot meters. Neither I don't understand how and when you'd use the highlight and shadow buttons either, alone or in combination. Could you show us what you are doing when you're doing those multiple spots, I can see you moving but what are you touching on the camera for it to record the spot? Then how would you use the highlight/shadow buttons and when?

[@vintagecameradigest]

Good question! There is a dedicated button next to the shutter release for taking the spot measurements. Every time you press it, it takes a reading. And you can do this up to 8 times. Each reading adds another exposure value that the camera will average to set an exposure. Highlight and shadow control buttons are separate from the spot meter button. To use the Shadow control, take a spot reading on a shadow area, press the shadow button, and the camera will adjust exposure -2.5 stops to ensure that the area you measured will record as shadow and not middle gray. You’d use the highlight control the same way except with a highlight area, of course. This will adjust exposure +2 stops to ensure that the area you measured will be recorded as a highlight tone and not middle gray.

[@joefaracevideos]

Thanks for all of the details on the OM-4, impressive. great photos too.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching!

[@davyboyo]

I remember that shutter sound! Great camera and I shot my om4ti for years but eventually that battery drain issue just got to me. These days I'm rocking a black Nikon f Apollo and a black f2. The F is simpler and my all time favourite ❤️

[@vintagecameradigest]

So, you experienced the battery issue with the "Ti" version? From what I've read, that issue was supposed to have been "fixed" on those. Interesting. But yes, you really can't go wrong with either of those Nikons. My F2 is one of my faves.

[@davyboyo]

@@vintagecameradigest yes the battery drain issue was certainly present although I think the drain might be a bit less on that later circuit. I could never get more than a few weeks from a pair of silver oxides and as you know, they tend to run out at the worst possible moment 🥲

[@vintagecameradigest]

Indeed! But good to know. Thanks for adding this bit of info!

[@davyboyo]

Most welcome, thank you for sharing your wonderful channel with us all.

[@achaycock]

I just want to say thank you very much for your latest videos. First of all, I was wowed by the difference between centre-weighted and multi-spot metering. Secondly, I wanted to say how much your metering series has helped me. I have bought one of the books that you recommended and have been working through the exercises - I finally understand exposure equivalence and f-stops and I am taking a lot more time with my metering. I have ambitions to do a lot more with film directly as a result of you videos.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Such great words to hear! And I’m glad that it’s led to you digging into exposure a bit more. Just understanding the basic concepts of exposure and equivalence can change the way you think about photography. I’ll admit that going through all the tests and exercises myself when doing the video still helps me with my understanding of it all and gives me a LOT more confidence. Over all of this though, is that I hope you’re having a tremendous amount of FUN creating and learning! Thanks so much for the kind words!

[@NicDade]

A couple notes on the hilight and shadow controls: not only do they shift the exposure by +2 or -2.6 EV, but they also work with multi-spot metering to find the brightest or darkest spot and meter only from that one. The idea was you'd use shadow metering with negative film, and pick spots on all the dark areas you wanted to preserve a little detail in, and let the camera find the darkest of those and put it at -2.6EV for you (zone 2 if you're Ansel). Similarly when using reversal or slide film, where highlights blow out easily, you use hilight mode and spot meter all the brightest spots you don't want blown out, and the camera puts the brightest of those at +2EV. Also when in center weighted metering, at middle and low shutter speeds the camera continues to meter off the film itself while the photo exposes, and extends or shortens the exposure as needed. This is useful in changing light conditions or photographing moving scenes. Night time and concerts with flash lights are easier to photograph this way too. And it made auto flash exposure TTL. The OM system included flashes which the camera could control to turn the flash off as soon as the exposure on the film was sufficient. This improved on earlier auto flash exposure systems where the flash had a fixed light sensor built in which tried to guess how much light was arriving at the film.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Wow! Great additional info here. Incredible that this tech was incorporated in a camera from 1983. I do think the way the camera can measure off the film plane is genius. Thanks for pointing this out!

[@kasimasi6747]

The best video on OM4 that I have seen to date!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks!

[@CMCSenior]

Excellent video on what seems to be a very versatile camera. I think you had to do your homework on using this one. Keep up the great videos!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you! Yes, I did do a bit of deep dive into the manual :-)

[@Harry._.Thompson]

Thank god for this video! I’ve not seen a single source (be video or blog), that describes the operation as clearly as this. Great video. The lighting, audio and pace of it are also very well done.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks so very much! And thanks for watching!

[@franktatom1837]

I worked in a camera store in the early 1980's and we sold Olympus, Fuji, Yashica, Nikon, and Canon. The OM-4 was a great camera with some unique features, but almost no one would look at it because it was pricey and it wasn't a "program" camera. Canon spent so much advertising the AE-1 Program that we had a hard time getting customers to even look at any camera that wasn'ta "program" camera..

[@vintagecameradigest]

“Program” was certainly the fad of the day back then. And Canon was pretty successful at marketing those AEs. It’s interesting to hear your take on these. I do a lot of reading of photo magazine back issues, but those are never as tuned in to what customers were actually buying. Many thanks!

[@franktatom1837]

@vintagecameradigest The AE-1 Program was the most faulty camera we sold, many came in for warranty repairs. Part of that could be chalked up to the number sold, and part to the buyer that wanted a camera that would do it all for them and who may not have been as astute in camera handling. I saw plenty that had been fairly abused. The fact that so many now find the AE-1 to be something of the pinnacle of prosumer 35mm cameras from that era is amusing to many of us who were shooting in that era. A decent camera, but there were many that were better by far.

[@vintagecameradigest]

It’s crazy isn’t it?? Seems like now you could get two A-1s for the cost of one AE-1. Go figure.

[@Koji-888]

I have this camera and have grown up with many others as well. Nikon, Fujifilm, etc.. But honestly I don’t trust myself in picking the right “spots” to be separately metered. Now we’re all spoiled with multi matrix. Or I’ll just go with spot focus and pick my center of importance. (I’m still amateur.) 💁🏻‍♀️

[@vintagecameradigest]

@@Koji-888 I think the matrix-type metering won out over multi-spot because it’s a very similar - but easier - solution.

[@jamescooksonphoto]

I just picked up an OM-4T after wanting one for so long. Mine is a well used copy with parts of the titanium rubbed off showing a glossy sheen underneath. The seller said it was tested and working with new light seals installed however when I'm shooting sometimes the shutter speed and what the meter is saying don't always sync up. For example the meter might say half a second but the camera will fire closer to 1/60 or 1/125 of a second and on the flip side if the meter is giving me any fast shutter speed reading the camera will fire for a full second. I've only shot on Nikon for 35mm and this is my first Olympus film camera so I'm leaning towards returning the camera and getting my money back to look for another OM-4T in better condition.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Absolutely return the camera. The first one I picked up also had odd issues with the auto-exposure, so I sent it straight back. There are good ones out there to be had. One will pop up soon enough.

[@maxbembel2962]

Ha! Two years older than you! Agree on Synchronicity tho. And a highly interesting and entertaining video - as always. After your last one I finally got around and bought a Minolta Spotmeter off Ebay. Very neat. 🙂

[@vintagecameradigest]

That’s a great spot meter! I hope it serves you well for many years to come! Now I think I’ll go enjoy some Tea in the Sahara.

[@willowrabbit]

I have an OM-4Ti, Love it so much! Have had no issues with my battery. I switch it to B1/60 as an off switch just in case.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I’m sure! I’ll be saving up for one :-)

[@willowrabbit]

​@@vintagecameradigest got mine on Ebay for 155usd "ugly condition" just had some black paint chipped off, was clean inside.

[@vintagecameradigest]

That’s an excellent buy! There are a couple of reputable ebay sellers that I’d consider buying something graded as “ugly”. KEH is one and Robert’s Camera / Used Photo Pro is another. My OM-4 came from Roberts. I’ll need to see what KEH has. Thanks for the tip!

[@ianhand5006]

We're the same age! My first car was a Vauxhall Chevette.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Had no idea that the Chevette found it’s way across the pond. Gen X rules!

[@rickyzagalo]

Beautiful contrasty pictures and, as usual, a most interesting and entertaining video. Aahh! that shutter and mirror shlaap is music. I like a lot to shoot with my OM2n and, for some time, I think on adding a OM4 to the stable and, you know what, you have made my mind and today I start searching for one :) I'm used to the multispot metering on my T90, so for sure, it will be second nature to me. Cheers

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks! I held off on picking one of these up for a long time. And now I wish I’d done it sooner! I predict I’ll be using this one quite often. And of course, the T90 is excellent. Good luck on your search!

[@cnicolo]

I really love this video. Thank you 😊

[@vintagecameradigest]

Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks for watching!

[@thecaveofthedead]

Hey thanks for doing this. Great pics. I have an OM4 I bought a few years ago that luckily doesn't have the fast battery drain. But the problem I've had with it is that the viewfinder is very dark except for the split prism. There may be some issue with the eyepiece I must check out. But compared to my Pentax MX or my 67, it's really hard to use the viewfinder. I think that a roll of slide film would really provide the challenge to figure out how good the multi-spot is. It's probably also the way to test whether the highlight button could provide really fast, accurate exposure. Loving your vids. Comprehensive and give a real sense of what a camera's going to be like in use.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching! If you say your viewfinder is darker than a P67, then I’d say you have an issue with the camera. I find my P67 viewfinder to be a bit on the dark side. I can’t imagine what the issue would be but, yes, I’d have it checked out. The brightness of the OM viewfinders are truly on another level compared to other cameras, and I hate that you’re not getting the privilege of that. Oh and your’e exactly right about the slide film. This metering system is perfect for that. I plan to pick up a roll before too long to try it out.

[@taffeylewis]

Just bought one of these, after longing for one when I was a teen. Luckily, mine has the updated circuit board. Don't have any advice to offer, as I am learning this camera just like you. Great video though, and love the pictures you got. Thanks.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching! I, too, wanted one of these for a long time. Glad to finally be able to put my hands on it - battery issues and all. This isn’t one I’d easily part with!

[@algrano-fotografia4338]

very good video. Excellent measurement system from that Olympus. In some Minolta you can use the multispot system and the high light/shadow with the expansion cards. I use them on the maxxum 7xi, but it is a very large camera. I'll have to try that OM4. Thank you very much for sharing.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks! And you're correct - there is a Multi-Spot expansion card for some of the Minolta bodies. I did an episode on the 7000i and 8000i cameras back in June. That little card adds real functionality instead of being gimmicky.

[@drkopkaish2617]

You got great photos!

[@vintagecameradigest]

I was pleased with most of them. I had too much invested in that first scene, though. Should’ve moved on to something else sooner. I think my favorites are the path and stream shots toward the end. Had better depth than I hoped for. Light can be amazing and unexpected.

[@garywebb5912]

I had an OM10 back in the 80's and loved the form factor so recently bought an OM4Ti, its an incredible camera for its age. In fact, I think its spot functionality is better than most modern cameras. With the OM4Ti the battery can be turned off by rotating the shutter speed to the mechanical speeds, while depressing the lock button. Is that not the case with the OM4? I find the centre weighted metering does a great job in most cases and have been very impressed with films I've shot just relying on that.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Well, it’s been rumored that setting the shutter speed to the mechanical speeds will stop the battery drain. But then I see in forums over and over again that this doesn’t work. I will have to do my own experimenting with this to find out the truth.

[@NiGhtPiSH]

I'm halfway through a roll of Fuji Acros II in my OM-4 with my recently acquired Bokina and I'm really excited to get it finished and processed. Still getting used to the spot metering, since I've shot mainly OM-40 and OM-2SP, but I'm confident I'll have some nice exposures on this roll.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Awesome! I’d love to hear your take on the OM-2SP. I’ve been eyeing that one, as well.

[@NiGhtPiSH]

@@vintagecameradigest The OM-2SP is a gem of a camera. I love it's simplicity combined with great capabilites. It's a perfect day to day shooter, but it shares the battery drain problem of the OM-4. I shoot mainly in Aperture Priority and it delivers consistent exposures. Manual exposures are coupled with single spot metering and are work like the OM-4. I love it But the real hidden gem is the OM-40/OM-PC - well built and really cheap, with the only drawback - lack of remote flash and mechanical backup shutter. I'm eagerly waiting on the 80mm and 135mm macros and the telescopic extension tube from Japan and take them out in the woods for some shots.

[@vintagecameradigest]

That’s great to hear! I recently gifted myself with a nice copy of an OM-PC. I’ve played around with it a bit but haven’t run any film through it. Now I’ll be excited to do so! And thanks for the info on the OM-2SP. That one will remain on my wish list!

[@rbatbaptista]

Hey Steve, another great video. I am wondering if you have plans to review more modern cameras, like Canon EOS-3? Thank you

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks! I’d LOVE to put my hands on a EOS-3, but I’ll definitely have to save up for one of those. I keep waiting for the prices to come down, but that doesn’t look like it’ll be happening anytime soon. Still, I can dream…

[@danielmccarthy1982]

Had an OM4 Ti and a Nikon FA and have to say I loved the Nikon more, not least because my fingers were too big for the tiny Olympus!.

[@vintagecameradigest]

It is, indeed, tiny. And if you have larger hands that could be a real issue. They did sell a grip that could improve the handling quite a bit. I priced one of those and the selling price was as much as I gave for the camera. So, I passed on that.

[@IndianKD]

Very interesting and useful!!! Thank you very much! I have Canon 1N (film camera) and Lumix S1 (digital), but I am now very interested to get OM4, only for just a try this magical spot metering idea in real life. From your presentation feels like very convinient feature, especially in manual mode (I would like that it be ))). Thank you for your video! Question (I am on the middle of the video mow) if battery dies in the middle of the roll, can I replace it and continue shooting? Or I need to finish this roll in fully mechanical mode?

[@vintagecameradigest]

Glad it’s sparked your interest! If batteries die mid-roll, just change them out and carry on as usual. You may waste a frame, but shouldn’t be more than one. How do you like the 1N? I have the original EOS-1, but I’d really like to try the 1N RS with the pellicle mirror one day.

[@IndianKD]

@@vintagecameradigest about Canon 1N - to be true, I have nothing to compare with, and because of that, I do not know what can be better or worse. To my taste, all works fine, or better to say - all works, and it's totally fine. Batteries - usual, light metering - works, film motor - works, even OIS on Canon 24-105 f4 L lens works (by my feeling, I don't know how to check for sure, but feels like it's working). So, it is a film camera, but, it has not much "manual experience". That is why I am looking for something more "manual", but reliable. My personal short-list is Nikon FM2, Olympus OM1 (or OM4-Ti), and maybe something with Contax/Yashica mount, only because of lenses. But I am a total newbie in film photography, I shot my first roll less than a month ago. If you are interested, you see it here [Fujifilm 200]: photos.app.goo.gl/WuEHoFqoHuikybKJ7

[@vintagecameradigest]

Those are some nice shots. A good variety of subject matter to test the waters, so to speak. As for your short-list of cameras - fine choices. I guess it will depend on whether you prefer fully mechanical or electronically-controlled bodies. One of the best fully mechanical cameras is the FM2. But the FM is also quite nice and not nearly as expensive. Another great Nikon to consider would be any of the versions of the F2. Many will tell you that it’s the best mechanical camera ever. The OM-1 is another excellent one, being MUCH smaller than most others - especially the F2. Nikon never seemed to be too worried about the size of their cameras. On the electronic side of things, of course you have the OM-4 series. And you’re right about the Contax/Yashica cameras. Those Contax lenses are VERY nice. But you’re off to a great start with the EOS-1N. Top of the line for its time and modern enough to feel familiar AND use contemporary lenses. I’m sure you’ll make good use of whichever one(s) you choose!

[@keironstoneman6938]

I have had the same set of batteries in mine for a couple months with almost constant use, i must have a goodun! Seriously though, an awesome camera.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Oh yes, sounds like you have a good one! I’ve got to do some experimenting with mine to see if setting the shutter to the mechanical speeds will actually do anything or not. Some say it does, others say not a chance. We’ll see.

[@keironstoneman6938]

@@vintagecameradigest edit: I do put it into b/60 when not in use.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Will try it! Thx!

[@EPeltzer]

Multi spot vs center weight. Great to have the option in camera though! This is a unique and very cool camera. Both methods depend completely on the choice of areas to meter. I had a handheld spot meter that could do multi, and used that quite a lot, though only with cameras with no built in metering, or when shooting slide film like Kodachrome. However, in general through a center weight SLR I would just point the center of the frame at something I judged to be 18% gray, and exposed manually on that (or lock exposure), and reframed. I also use to just carry a Kodak gray card old school. But even where that wouldn't be useable it works well once you learn to judge a scene to find that 18% gray. This is a skill to learn by trial error. Sometimes you have to balance on an area with mixed bright and darks that would average out to hopefully that middle gray. Now, with spot metering, you have to be careful especially metering darks and highlights. Sometimes a highlight area is just far too bright, and you really should be ignoring it because it will drag your exposure too dark. Like skies are just often way too bright and I would tend to not spot those most of the time. Yeah they may be blown out but of course it's film with limited latitude, accept it or use a polarizer. It's a different skill to learn. It's really a matter of what you prefer, both methods, with experience, can give great results consistently. Spot is great in difficult situations, at the expense of it taking about 4-5 times as long.

[@vintagecameradigest]

You nailed it. You can't use a spot meter in a hurry. You have to pay attention and make choices. And those are good things generally. On cameras without meters, I'll use my spot meter almost all the time. Usually measuring a highlight and a shadow point and averaging the two. That has served me well. So, I figured I'd have no problem with the OM-4 measuring the sky and not shifting it too far in that direction. Apparently I was wrong. And it probably wouldn't have helped to use my spot meter in the same situation. Now I'm determined to go back to that cabin at some point to give myself another chance.

[@daboze8639]

You're in my backyard!! I live in Carrollton 😂

[@vintagecameradigest]

You’re kidding! Been here since 1981!

[@stevebarnett5048]

I wanted to like the OM4Ti that I had but alas it didn’t work out. In the UK we get some wet and cold weather, and the OM4 axial shutter speed dial was just a nightmare, there’s nothing much to get hold of with cold fingers and forget it with gloves on. Compare that with the big tab on the axial dial on a Nikkormat and you can see Nikon were thinking about practicalities and not minimising the form factor.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I can see how that might be an issue. Those tabs are a bit small. And you can never accuse Nikon of not being practical. That kind of thinking has carried them a long way.

[@johnsomers8269]

My but that OM4 is a fidgety camera! How about the Pentax LX with its film plane metering?

[@vintagecameradigest]

For reasons that remain unclear to me, I’ve yet to be tempted by an LX. I’m sure they’re fantastic cameras, and being the flagship model, I’d be lying if I said I had no interest in them at all. It just hasn’t been near the top of my list 😁

[@Pepsiphopia]

I got the OM-2n. This have been my next camera. Why buy a Leica when Olympus does the same thing?

[@vintagecameradigest]

Well, I’ve never owned a Leica, so I can’t say for sure. But the Olympus cameras - nearly all of them - are well-designed, well-planned, intuitive cameras that are quite a joy to use!

[@Harry._.Thompson]

Because it’s a bit like comparing a Honda NSX to a Ferrari…. Yes the NSX is nice to look at, reliable, fun and fast. It’s not a Ferrari. The Ferrari is just slightly better in every way (apart from cost).

[@CMCSenior]

Love to see a video on the Canon EF, aka the “Black Beauty”.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Yes, that would be a good one! I should add it to the list.

[@tomislavmiletic_]

I was wanting that camera for ages, course correct exposure was really important for slide films. And I was living breathing slide films. So a couple of years ago I stumbled upon one (OM4), for just €110 (about $120) !!! However, on closer inspection, I saw that it suffers from wrinkly cloth shutter. That shutter was about to die. Soon. And I do not regret my decision of bailing that deal. Today, the OM4 is on a pricier side. And if it dies, it's hard to find someone who will work on it. Same goes for the OM2sp... So recently I bought OM40 (OM-PC) instead. Plasticky, no fancy light meter, but it had cost me only €50. I do still have now a dead specimen of OM2sp my dad gave me long time ago. In a year or two prior to camera's premature death, it took just a DAY before a freshly installed batterys crapped out. Now I don't know was that my copy only, but it's something to be aware off...

[@vintagecameradigest]

The regular OM-4 prices aren’t quite as bad as the T and Ti versions. But those are going to ensure you don’t have battery issues. I took a chance on this one, and yeah, well we see how that turned out. Interesting that the OM-2S has the same issue. I do think it and the OM-4 were built on the same new chassis, so they may have shared some circuitry. Still…a day is all it took? That’s pretty bad. I, too, recently bought an OM-PC for a very good price. I’ve yet to test it with film, but seems to be one I’m gonna like.

[@jonvincentmusic]

Om 2 had shutter speed in the viewfinder.

[@vintagecameradigest]

True, but isn’t that just in AE mode? When changing to Manual those speeds disappear and you’re left with only that needle. Or am I thinking of a whole different camera?

[@matereo]

The Canon T90 kinda has it.. the metering but is a huge camera

[@vintagecameradigest]

Yes, the T90 has it. It just doesn’t work in manual mode. But it works wonders in any of the others. And, you’re right. It’s a bigger camera, heavier, but it’s ergonomics are more refined. Either of them are pretty nice, though!

[@ianhand5006]

Spot metering, on the T90, works in AV mode, too.

[@vintagecameradigest]

You are right! Thanks for the correction. I was getting confused with the Canon AE’s shutter-priority-only. Too many cameras going on in my head. This just confirms that the T90 is excellent in and of itself. Except for the way it meters in manual mode…ugh.

[@joseerazevedo]

I had a Canon T90 with multi spot metering. HOW I MISS THAT SYSTEM!!! Every - and I mean EVERY - chrome (NOT negative) exposure was nothing but perfect. Of course, you had to know how to use, which was quite simple. An incredible metering system never to be seen again... Dumbs and "auto" always win... Canon's T90 multi spot was not as sophisticated. OM4's is much more interesting in it allows more control and gives more information. Great!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Exactly! I can really see how using the OM-4 or T90 would be almost a necessity for slides. I keep meaning to pick up a roll or two to try out. I might have to do that soon. I also agree that the OM-4’s version is quite a bit more refined in how it presents the metering info. AND let’s you use it in manual mode on top of that.

[@joseerazevedo]

@@vintagecameradigest OM-4s are quite rare here in Brazil, but should I fin one I'll probably grab it. Thanks for the excellent video, showing its differences and how more refined it is compared to the T90. I was never that lucky with electronic Canon: had a T60 that only worked when it wanted and the T90 had its shutter replaced twice in two tears - and I'm not a pro! Olympus reliability seems to be much higher. All the best!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Ouch! I would expect more from the T90…so sad to hear!

[@ledheavy26]

I never used a multi spot metering camera but when I shot slide film in my Nikon N90s it was extremely accurate and gave fantastic results with the matrix metering. The usefulness of the multi spot metering is not lost on me though, it would be a useful feature to have on modern cameras even.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Yes, I think matrix/evaluative won out because it was simpler to implement and gave much better exposures than the center-weighted. And it really works well in most situations. I’m not aware of any digital SLR that incorporated multi-spot. But Canon’s final film flagship, the EOS-1V had it. That may be the most modern implementation of it.

[@cameraprepper7938]

The tech of the OM-4 are good, but the design of the Viewfinder housing is bad compared to OM-1, OM-2 and OM2 SP, I like that the shutter sits in front of the Camera around he Lens mount, but on the OM-4 you have to tilt the camera back to see the shutter speed selected !

[@willowrabbit]

As someone who carries all three OM-1, 2, and a 4Ti often in rotation, never had an issue with the 4's bump.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I guess it does sit a bit underneath…I didn’t have any issues with it. But now that you’ve mentioned it I probably won’t be able to ignore it, lol.

[@cameraprepper7938]

@@vintagecameradigest I is often the small details that make a really good or bad device.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Yes, you’re right about that. However, one positive thing about the OM-4 design is that the shutter speeds are visible in the finder. So, in use, I don’t think I even thought about looking at the actual shutter control since they were right there in the finder. Now on the OM-1 and OM-2 - that’s a different story…

[@cameraprepper7938]

@@vintagecameradigest I like to have an overview of the Camera and Lens settings when picking the Camera up, before having the Camera to my eye. When I have my Camera to my eye I most concentrate for composing the image.

[@Wasp9513]

You don’t need all this. Just buy an Om-1 and learn how to expose by seeing without a light meter

[@vintagecameradigest]

I have an OM-1, but I still make use of the meter. In-camera meters have proven to be quite useful tools.

[@Jennifer_Prentice]

ok so I normally do not say these kinds of things but I am going to lol. So I have bought cameras pushing 80+ years old and I have newer all digital this and that film cameras.. ALL of them control the light the same way.. It don't matter if you have a wooden box with a lens with just a lens cap you pull off for a second and put back on lol. A shutter does the same thing on all film cameras.. There is no such thing as a special shutter system that can expose parts of the film plane brighter or darker then other parts all in one shot lol. All of these spot readings are really kinda pointless :). Take that same camera go back out again.. If you want to expose for shadows spot meter on a shadow , If you want to expose for bright areas spot meter for a bright area.. If you want to average something in the middle meter something bright and something dark and guess something between lol. Id almost bet money you wont tell any difference between all these fancy 6 7 and 8 point meter readings you are wasting your time doing :).. Sorry hon but you are making it more complicated then it is :). 1/250 of a second is the exact exposure on a 100 year old camera then it is on a brand new camera today (Well if the camera is calibrated correctly that is lol).

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you for your honesty :-) Obviously a shutter is a shutter is a shutter. And you are correct, if I want to average the highlight reading with a shadow reading I just spot meter both and find the mid-point. Only with this camera, I don’t have to guess what that mid-point is. It shows me. It works just like my spot meter. So, yes, measuring more than two spots isn’t always going to be necessary. But as for finding the mid-point between highlight and shadow, it’s pretty handy.

[@russellgoodwin1652]

@@vintagecameradigest Exactly! And my maths isn't sufficient to quickly calculate a 2:1 lighting ratio of shadow to light, but on an OM-4 I simply take two spot readings of the shadow area and one of the highlight and take the shot, or lock the reading in memory. Same principle goes for a 3:1 ratio, depending on the emphasis you wish to place between shadow and highlight. Perhaps it can be argued that given the latitude of negative film, such precision of metering isn't necessary, but whether shooting negative or slide film, no other camera metering system instilled such a sense of confidence as the OM-3/OM-4. I recently bought a very fine example of an OM-1n, partly in reaction to the utterly cluttered viewfinders of modern digital cameras. The OM-1, without aperture or shutter speed readouts has a viewfinder that is the very model of visual tranquillity. I know by touch what shutter speed is set, and I simply count click stops from minimum or maximum to know what aperture I am at. And I simply glance down at the camera settings as I lift the camera to my eye. It is a joy to use when simplicity is of the essence, and when I am shooting negative film stock it is liberating not to be hung up on precisely what 0.3 of a stop my exposure is at. I enjoy both cameras for almost diametrically opposite reasons. I also very much like the viewfinder of the Nikon FE, and it's match needle metering system is very elegant. All the important info visible without cluttering up the view. As much as I wanted to like the Pentax LX and MX, I was repelled by the illuminated LEDs for indicating exposure. They seemed to 'shout' from the wings as it were, which I found inappropriately distracting for such otherwise simple and refined cameras. The OM-3/4 was able to appear both highly sophisticated (even to this day) and yet understated. The first time I looked through their viewfinders I was wowed. I had never seen displays like that in a camera before, and they could be instantly understood without having to read the figures, just like reading the hands on an analogue watch with pattern recognition instead of having to 'process' the numerals of a digital watch. Everything relevant comprehended with a glance. I remember reading a review of the OM-3/4 when it was released (I think it might well have been Modern Photography magazine) in which the reviewer concluded that no other camera system was available that catered to the thinking photographer, but it remained to be seen how many photographers still thought. It is lovely to see the OM-3/4 garnering some of the recognition now that it deserved but didn't receive when it was first released. Thank you 👍👍

[@vintagecameradigest]

Excellent points! And you’re right about the OM-1 and OM-4 being so different from each other. And I do think you could choose each one based on your photographic “mood” of the day. I really gave the OM-1 a hard time about the lack of anything in the viewfinder when I reviewed it months ago. But it was quickly pointed out to me that if I was familiar enough with the camera and the location of the shutter dial “handles”, it was really a non-issue. And that’s true. But I love the OM-4 viewfinder - the elegance, understated, easy on the eyes. I also agree with you on the Nikon FE. I’ve never even held a Pentax LX, but I owned an MX for a while but remained underwhelmed with it, so we parted ways. The FE’s finder is very similar to the Pentax K2, though. It’s so interesting to see all the different iterations of viewfinder info from the same manufacturer over only a few years. But I suppose those were evolutionary years. Thanks so much for watching!

[@russellgoodwin1652]

@@vintagecameradigest Thank you for producing the video 🤓