All NEW Goosky RS5 Build Part 2

[@scottdearmond5532]

Jeff, amazing meticulous informative helicopter 🚁 build series. 👍🏻🤗

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Thank you! I try and make the most informed videos on the internet!

[@stevendegiorgio3143]

Nice helicopter frame.This is the way model R/C helicopters used to be in the late 1970s to the early 1980s.I remember it,the hobby store owner used to have assembly events every Friday nite.Modelers would bring there helicopter body frames and get help on the next steps in construction at the same time there be modelers in the back parking lot trying to learn how to hover.Most of the flyers never got more than 3 feet off the ground Those were fun times.Some of these helicopters were GMP competitors.

[@travisdopler289]

I completed this build on my RS5 before you released this video. I did mine exactly the same as yours, so I was relieved to see that I did it right. You also answered any questions I had concerning the build. Thanks Jeff, for getting this out so quickly! This really really helps me and the rest of us out here. I was supper impressed with the quality of this heli. I haven't flown mine yet, but it looks like it flies as good as it's engineered. If it's ok with you, I will link to these videos on my channel? You're awesome Jeff, and thanks again.

[@jasonnhu3338]

for the tail bell crank, the only tip to put those little shims in easier is putting some grease into where the shims will sit. That will definitely hold the shims in place long enough for you to put the bell crank onto the tail case.

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

That’s exactly what I did @9:50 works great.

[@briannettles786]

Always look forward to seeing your videos

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Thank you! I greatly appreciate it!

[@briannettles786]

@ sir we appreciate you definitely a blessing to all of us

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

@ I’m glad these videos are helpful! My whole goal!

[@kajuta240]

Looks like they have improved a lot of the design and engineering overall. I only see two nitpicks....one is the fail pushrod assembly for the tail; I have snapped so many of those damn screws with what I thought was only a meager tightening. Second, once again they leave you with hardly any room on the FC mounting tray. If you have an all in one with antenna great....but if you are trying to mount an FC and RX separately...your going to have to get creative on the RX location! Thx for the build, love learning about different kits and comparing them to others. PS. Ordered the Xnova 4020 1200kv for the Gemini last night, so glad I waited before commiting. I had waffled around 4025's and 4030's, in the end your right...a 4020 will be well suited for sport flying and give extended time in the air doing so (Im just not a 3D smasher). Its a perfect match for what I want to accomplish with the Gemini. I have a set of RTU 560 for now and as soon as I can find a set....Switch 553 will be my alternates. I have a 16t and 17t pinion, I will try the 17t first and hopefully that won't prove to be to hard on the motor when I try to push the 560 blades. 1800-2100-2400 headspeed are probably where im going to be setting it, with 2100 as my primary for gentle maneuvering.

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

In my opinion, this is the best flying and building goosky this far. They really knocked it out of the park with this one! I like it more than my RS4, RS7! I already talked to them about the tail push rod future kits will include a 10 mm longer pushrod. The other thing is they need to update the manual for the main linkage lengths. They are off bad! This is the main reason I tell goosky to send me kits before they release!! Personally, I think pretty much every company should send production kits to people not just myself but anybody that does build to make sure the manual is correct and finishes, correct etc. because it really sucks when something is already on the market and having upset customers over little things that could’ve been fixed prior to the release date. That’s why I will always say SAB is top notch and cannot be beat for flight performance and build quality if they have a problem they do not release until it is fixed. Great motor choice! I run the Xnova 4020 1200kv in my Orion with the stock pinion and can run 2600 RPM no problem. Thing is a beast with that motor! I like 2250-2450 RPM as my max. No bogging and tons of power.

[@muradhassan8282]

Fantastic build as always, Jeff! On a different note, I'd love to see you build some technical truck RC models, e.g. 'CrossRC BC8 Mammoth', which is my fav and if it's possible.

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Thank you! I greatly appreciate it! So I actually used to be into cars many years ago. I have not built a Car/truck in a long time! That thing looks sick! Maybe a build one day!

[@HuevosAzules]

Can't wait for the maiden

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Maiden will be posted on Friday!

[@craigg.3707]

Best practice: Better to use a toothpick (or other) to place loctite inside a threaded hole (especially on blade grips) instead of on the screw's threads. That way excess is kept internal and not allowed to hinder movement of the associated parts.

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

@@craigg.3707 That is definitely a great way to do it!

super nice,

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

It sure is!

[@davidayre310859]

Thanks for the video... What pitch settings do you recommend for a newbie

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

@@davidayre310859 Thank you got watching! I would say start with +/- 11 degrees or you can do +11 and -8 degrees.

[@chrisball6900]

When aligning the red collar on the main shaft, I put some felt tip pen color on the shaft flat spots. That makes it easier to identify where they are. Works for me anyway. Also, the tail control rod measurement in the RS5 manual states a length of 656mm, but I found this measurement should be the centre to centre ball link length, making the total length 666mm.

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

That is definitely a good idea so you can find it easier. Yes! It needs to be extended about 10 mm. The factory already knows and making the push rod 10mm longer in kits.

[@nfavor]

Is XT90 is fine for a 550 or 600 stretch?

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Sure! I’ve pulled over 200 amps out of a XT90 with no problems.

[@rayclark7963]

Say Jeff, I have one of the first RC copters that was mass produced. How hard would it be to convert it to electric?

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Anything can be done! Just depends on how much work and custom stuff you can fabricate to make it work. I’ve seen a lot of guys convert old nitros to electric. There use be a Company that made a prop adapter shaft that would allow you to still use the Nitro clutch. They are no longer in business.

[@allanbassett-v1j]

When is the maiden Jeff?

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Maiden will be posted on Friday!

[@kajuta240]

And where are you getting switch 553's? Do you have them in reserve? I have been hunting for months now. I jelly!

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

I probably bought the last set BK had lol I like to keep at least one backup pair of blades, especially if I really liked them. I had two sets, one went on the Orion and one on the RS5. I’ve got two more sets on order just waiting for them to get in stock. I’m going to talk to Bert tomorrow and see if we can get an ETA on switch blades. You looking for switch blades is like me looking for Xblade 713s lol next to impossible!

[@muhammadaiman2746]

Excuse me, I'm still new to the helicopters hobby...so I would like to ask what's the difference between lock tide & retaining compound? And the purpose? Sorry.. because English is not my 1st language

[@eliasgomezromo5061]

Wen is the maiden???

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

@@eliasgomezromo5061 maiden will be live on Friday at 12!

[@stevendegiorgio3143]

Motor? Really?my last helicopter had an OS 32 H nitro engine with a centrifugal clutch and bell housing.

[@westhobbiesrc8051]

Yes… it’s electric. So a motor. Not an engine. Engine is what a nitro Heli. That’s still how nitro helicopters are done.