All Solar Panel Diodes tested OK. What else can it be?

[@amudlifecrisis]

This ending is a KZbin masterpiece!

[@guy7gsa]

Loving your sense of humor.

[@serenity6988]

respect the whole picture others dont see! You are a teacher sir! You have my highest respect! Others should follow with gratitude!

[@SuperVstech]

Hell, it doesn’t matter WHAT you talk about... your channel is awesome. I love solar discussion, and I’m with you all the way figuring out the issue, but wow you are funny, and the editing is on POINT! Two thumbs up from here.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I appreciate that

[@petercamusojr1545]

The sub string in your panel has 24 diodes in series. Your meters do not have a high enough voltage to forward bias 24 diodes in series.

[@eksine]

you might be right, I am telling him he needs to replace the diodes with new known good tested diodes. he's interpreting the meters incorrectly

[@petercamusojr1545]

@@eksine the diodes I am talking about are the photovoltaic pv diodes

[@eksine]

@@petercamusojr1545 I dont understand, even when I look up your words it still shows up as either bypass or blocking/ rectifier / schottky diodes, what other diodes are their? are you talking about diodes that connect each solar cell together?? what is the actual name so I can google it?

[@eksine]

@@petercamusojr1545 ok so I see , than that means the solar cells are bad, he got them for free didn't he? well that's why free stuff is usually bad, that's why it was free because there was something wrong with it

[@petercamusojr1545]

@@eksine free stuff may not work as good as new but can still be useful. I don't think all these panels are bad. One panel can prevent the string of panels from working correctly. What is your native language? How much education do you have and in what field of study?

[@praveenjain6025]

Truly said nightmare as if you have not find true cause of faulty penel... Hopefully not....then go ahead with more experimental Will give nice suggestions

[@kswis]

Def enjoyed the epic nightmare/bad dream saga at the end of the video, "Andy, come in, have a beer hahaha" an instant classic. Thankyou for taking the extra time to add that in. Good stuff Andy

[@dave3005]

I love these videos. So honest. It’s great to see an average Joe having problems, being frustrated and using logic to try and troubleshoot and solve the problem! Great job.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you very much, Dave.

[@js72634]

Even with all the instructions to stick around to the end, I might not have done so without the comment from another viewer that it's a KZbin masterpiece. It was worth the wait

[@dig1035]

Disecting your defective panels are helping me learn, thanks!

[@jmaus2k]

One of us watched to the end and thought it was a joke.... Now I am hooked to see what you figure out. Your variable load battery tester will also make it easy to sweep each panel for it's power point.

[@rickp6726]

Incredibly entertaining. Thank you, Andy!

[@rw-xf4cb]

You brought the problem up a few episodes ago. They're 2nd hand panels with little love being decommissioned (most likely) probably micro fractures in the panels, the diodes are solid state unlikely to be damaged. Thanks for going through this as my stash of panels not yet installed - I will test on the ground rather than optimistically installing them on the roof. I also got some with 'snail trails' - I got them much cheaper but still concerned they will be ground mounted just in case. What I read it shouldn't matter but just to be safe than sorry.

[@geoffreylohff3876]

Love the "nightmare" ending! Been there a few times in my life when the puzzle absorbs into my dreams... 😁

[@denisebrooks4513]

I love this video, though I'm sorry it's so frustrating. But when you show us how to test our own understanding and assumptions and even how to test the testers, I feel like I am finally understanding this stuff. Thanks so much!

[@TBL_stevennelson]

I Love your show. I sometimes don't find the problem right away on my Projects. Even at my old computer Repair business I needed to sleep on the problem. I used to say I dreamed up the solution.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yeah, sleeping for two weeks now and still ^%@#$%

[@jameshudspeth7622]

Andy.. you're close. It can still be the diodes. The way we test diodes in the Semiconductor industry is at Stated Voltage for breakdown. In all cases you're testing way below the breakdown voltage of the diode. Use your power supply at 36.6V (Vmax of the solar panels) and i'm betting the diodes are breaking down.. It is the diodes, but you're tester is too low a voltage. Try again !.. have fun, enjoy the videos. Thx, Jim

[@ralphguard1590]

Diode breakdown, Vr, must be ≥ 15.067 ( Voc / 3 ), but i would expect Vr ≥ 17v would be just fine here

[@JonathanWellskcender]

Interesting point, I hadn't thought that. Should be easy to check too.

[@bobfoulke4875]

Yet another exciting episode of OGG!! Your channel has the best content and you are a master of keeping it interesting and fun. The moral of this story is test it all on the ground then climb the ladder, LOL ...Great Job. Andy Thanks

[@Mike_Neukam]

LOL at the end I think you're on the right track. It seems like you haven't found a bad diode yet, and if it's not the diodes, then it's not worth digging any deeper. Performance test each panel individually and junk the panels that don't perform. Every hour you spend digging into the cause is time spent not enjoying beer.

[@dstevens7614]

You are becoming “the mad professor” !! I love your videos. I have wondered too why mine aren’t doing what I paid for ….. You are great.

[@WildlyIntrepid]

Most people dont watch videos until the very end. When you make the last 5 seconds conterdict the whole 20 mins what do you expect? Im still here with you trying to find my own problem with my solar and you have been troubleshooting for hours of content. Sometimes you just want to find the solution and not watch everything leading up to it over multiple 20 min videos. I dont know about you but when Im searching for a solution I often skip videos that just drag out the awnser and in your cause never provide it (yet). That said I like how detailed you are.

[@unbreakableshn]

Your videos are very good ones!!! Congrats!!! Your sense of humor is the best!!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you! 😃

[@AGhostInTheMachine]

Thoroughly entertaining. Andy has mad video skills.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you.

[@danielglang6312]

Is that MAD or INSANE, or are MAD and INSANE the same thing? Inquiring minds want to know. Either way, Great job Andy.

[@gumpster6]

I recently stumbled upon your channel and have been thoroughly enjoying this latest mystery. This video was incredible - interesting, educational, entertaining and hilarious. 10/10

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you so much for your feedback! Great to have you here...

[@wloulittle]

Hi again. I am in the middle of changing my batteries out to lithium Ion cells. I bought a salvage Tesla Model 3 standard battery and modifying it to 24 volt system. What I did to control the charge is to set the absorbe time to a value greater than your solar day. This prevents the voltage from changing and my charge controllers keep the voltage in check.

[@JustJacqe]

I comment during videos, because uts my part of the conversation...i mean your in my bedroom, lol. By tbe way i only watched one, and i did warch the whole thing, and , i love you ! Hope all is well and your heart strong. Your a precious joy.

[@HansKeesom]

I am glad you are going for a more practical plan. Indeed, just test each panel together with the two you had outside and working. If it adds enough to the voltages and keeps the amps, it is good. Put it on the good stack. Once you have tested all of them like that, makes sets of three and test them together, if they deliver enough watts, put them together on the roof. If not, make a different set of three, whatever works. The other panels, the wrong ones, use them for some additional wattage from a roof that is in the shade already, don't expect too much of them, somehow they can handle it. Stop breaking open your panels, you will end with a lot of scrap. Close your can of worms and be glad with what they produce...... Regarding the diodes, could it be the pasta has become conductive on some of these panels......

[@georgev.]

Great sense of humor. I agree with testing the panels under load. May be with a pure resistive load and measure V and A and put all the panels in the sun to equalize its temperature. Or apply the full panel voltage to the diodes to see if they block it.

[@DIYwithBatteries]

Finally I made it Sir, I've watched till the end. The outro was Hilarious 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 LOL I already told you, you are an actor 😊 keep it up Sir I like. its really very long video but it just compiled me to watch till the end Haha... And I think those Multimeter batteries are low Or definitely it always with selector switch.

[@harrycrawford8517]

Andy, this is fantastic thank you so much. Who else would be so dedicated to finding the issue, and who else on KZbin has done such an in depth analysis. Really enjoying this series, it’s like a murder mystery!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks, Harry! It's a bit like the PHEV stuff a few years back, right?

[@harrycrawford8517]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia yes it is I can see that you are not going to be satisfied until the cause is identified. Every episode I watch I get more intrigued as to what is coming next.

[@mrzed6597]

Andy you did test the diodes with 3-4V but the panel string produces maybe 12-20V. Try it with a lab transformer and reverse the polarity. You will see if Amps going through. Also you can give the whole panel 30-40V reverse. The panel is more like a zener diode in series to a LED. If voltage exceeds limit zener diode opens. And then like LED, so the panel glows in IR spectrum. Also produces heat.

[@DannyBokma]

Did you consider making an EL image of the solar panels? Connect a power supply to the solar panel and let run for example 4A trough it ( constant current power source required ). Then take a long exposure picture with a camera without a IR filter ( in a dark room ) and you can visualise/estimate the solar cell performance per cell. (google: pv EL image ). Good luck!

[@BrazzaB1]

Andy, try testing the voltage on each string within a bad panel when illuminated.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Did this today, all the same. Voc and Vmp of all three strings are the same in this panel.

[@SuperBrainAK]

HAHAHA perfect!! loved the ending! BTW the multimeter is not reading any "current" it is reading the voltage of the diode drop, the difference in reading is going to change with the two meters because each one is allowing a different current to flow. I hope you figure it out! cheers!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks. Yeah, the multimeter sends current through the diode and measures the voltage drop. That is correct. The voltage drop should be consistent regardless the current flowing through a diode.

[@rs1961]

I just stumbled onto your videos the other day. They are soooo very informative and at the same time entertaining. I know it takes a lot of work and time to record these videos which slows you down, but I for one am extremely grateful that you have done so. KUDOS!

[@grimfandingo4177]

You could buy a grow light to test each panel. Maybe mary jane when you're finished.

[@retrozmachine1189]

Oh, the end of this clip is wonderful! When I bought some 2nd hand panels I did the MPPT test like you are proposing to do and grouped the panels by good / sick and put them onto separate MPPT chargers to get the best out of them. They are still like that to this day. Good luck, hope you get it worked out.

[@hydroalternation]

I diagnose industrial floor cleaning equipment which for the most part uses low side switching down side to all of this is that low side does not like water or moisture it only needs to find a path to ground then the equipment faults out and since they are mostly scrubbers there is water involved the vicious circle never ends on the vid you published on april 17 i wrote about this it will help when all else fails start over

[@Drewboo1968]

Same voltage in both directions would indicate a shorted diode if I am remembering correctly. Another thing to try is cut a length of PV cable of the same gage and length of the tails from the panels. Measure the resistance of the cable, and use that as a reference for the resistance of your PV cables on the panels.

[@alanhollister9122]

Could it be corrosion inside the panels from cell to cell but still getting some current????

[@DSmartLife]

Have you considered that mixing panels from different manufacturers could be the problem, as they have different Vmp? Please try 3 in series of only your Suntech panels and check. Hope you find the problem and solution soon.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I have talked about this in a previous video. It should not matter if the specs are close together and roughly matching. The strings on the roof have now been brand and model matched with the exact same outcome.

[@MrPinkster1]

Absolute classic ending😂😂😂🤦‍♂️ I am also on a solar fact finding/testing journey your vids are brilliant!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@topeye4202]

In diode testing mode the multimeters testing with different fixed voltages, enough to test regular diodes, but not always enough for examle LEDs. The panel itself has different diffusion voltages depending on not perfectly shading or other wear or production differences. Thats why you get different results with the two multimeters.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks for the explanation.

[@edwardvanhazendonk]

Good luck Andy, If you have a current source which has a bigger open voltage of let's say 12V you'll be able to figure out if the diodes will conduct in the other direction, maybe the 3.2V or 2.8 V are not generating enough current to get the diode open in the false direction. The voltage normally applied to get the bypass working is I think a bit bigger than the 3.2V, your using a diode tester, not a complete validation with it's advertised maximum. But hey, you are trying to get 3 parallel strings working, take you newly bought panels connect 3 strings in series, test those seperatly, parallel them on your driveway, when ok install them on the roof. Saves you from wasting more energy on the old panels for now and you generate energy with the new ones. Then in a few weeks/months when time permits you grab the old panels and figure out what is wrong. Now with some of the diodes removed can you measure in full sunlight the.power of seperate busses? With your battery testing electronic load you might see the individual cell bus power. But then again, the time does not weigh in against the cost of "fixing" old panels I'm afraid

[@benmoody2975]

oh my.... Andy, best video yet!!!! that ending🤣🤣🤣

[@tacticaladvance]

Loving your video mate. Very refreshing keep up the good work.

[@davidgraf197]

Surly there must be Academy Awards for off grid productions!!

[@denisebrooks4513]

The dream sequence is absolute fun!

[@antoniosalandy7108]

Ok, so it's my first time commenting on your channel. So I'm not an expert but I have been living off grid for the past 3½ years. I believe that the issue is with the MC4 connectors. What I have discovered in the past is that with different MC4's when the sun comes out and the current begins to climb, the MC4'S heat up and you get a huge voltage drop across the string. So if you have heat camera to measure the temperature rise if any across the MC4'S. Hope this helps

[@davel3333]

I have some Suntech second hand panels one of which had a blown diode so I decided to replace all 3 of them. Replaced all the diodes and the panel only generated 1 volt. After much head scratching I deduced that the original diodes were common Anode not common Cathode as all new diodes seem to be, reversed all connections and everything is good!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Ha, thanks for sharing. That's good information.

[@DavidBTB]

Do panels generate some voltage when you light the back? Probably not much, but enough to confuse your meters?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I thought about that too. But no, there is nothing shining through. I tested mostly at night with only the bench lights. Impossible there could be any light on the cells.

[@tecnology-today]

Without any doubt, the end of this video is the best part of it (even taking that the rest is interesting). Great performance Andy jajajaja . You are great! In the technical side, i would sugest to test the diodes with a battery and a light bulb (with no need to remove the diodes) . It shows you clearly if a diode drives correctly or not (either, open or short). PV cells are not diodes since the junction is not doped as a NP semiconductor and therefore can't be tested without photons bombing the cell. In addition, the long series of the string makes the things worse since the testing voltage has to pass through a lot of "open" steps...

[@gor4988]

Some of us really enjoy the hunt It's boring if it works, straight out of the box 😁

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Haha, great. I'll keep chasing then 😚

[@vaneay]

The multimeter seems to have an auto range and cramp up the voltage to test reverse voltage of diode. Your first multimeter might use a smaller voltage and do not see diodes with a high reverse voltage. The diodes are broken and conduct when a sufficient reverse voltage is applied ( Ex: like a zener diode ).

[@infinitygreenpower]

Dear Andy, Still I believe that the PID doing all these problems. Anyhow you can test the opened PV panels under the sun day and test the open voltage and short circuit for each string of the three strings for the PV panel and see the different between them in the same panel. After that you may discover what happening. Your idea to test every pv panel with MPPT and battery it good idea too , but please do the test for each string first.

[@rilosvideos877]

To test the panels test them in the dark with external voltage about 20-30% more than the OCV of the panel. Then grab an IR-camera and take a close-up photo of the cells. If there are great differences in brightness (IR-output) than the panel is bad (has bad cells). You can remove the IR-filter of a regular digital camera to take the photos or use a good high-res IR-camera.

[@Arafury57]

I set up a small system for a friend. The charging was way below spec. After a LOT of pulling it apart and testing and testing again I finally checked a fuse just to find that it was not made properly and was barely making contact in side. Frustrating that you can't rely on something that basic.

[@electron-1979]

20:11 Masterpiece!! Bravo!! 🐸🦘

[@Nic7320]

Divide the panel's Voc by Isc and you get the equivalent (thevenin) series resistance of the panel. If you put the same value load resistor on the output, you'll be at the MPP. Maximum power transfer occurs when output resistance equals load resistance, that's also why antennas are matched to output impedance of a transmitter, (e.g. 50 ohms). But you'll need a very large wattage resistor to handle all the power of a solar panel in full sun. Another idea for testing panels (that I heard about, but haven't tried) is to put a voltage across the panel and look at the cells with an IR sensitive camera. They act like LEDs when they are forward biased..

[@berny8283]

Diodenprüfung! Sicherstellen, dass a) die Stromversorgung des Stromkreises ausgeschaltet ist und b) keine Spannung an der Diode anliegt. Spannung könnte aufgrund geladener Kondensatoren im Stromkreis anliegen. In diesem Fall müssen die Kondensatoren entladen werden. Das Multimeter je nach Bedarf auf die Messung von Gleichspannung oder Wechselspannung einstellen. Den Drehschalter in den Diodenprüfmodus (How to test diodes) drehen. Die Funktion ist eventuell zusammen mit einer anderen Funktion auf dem Drehschalter zu finden. Die Messleitungen an die Diode anschließen. Den angezeigten Messwert notieren. Die Messleitungen anders herum anbringen. Den angezeigten Messwert notieren. Analyse der Diodenprüfung Eine funktionierende Diode in Durchlassrichtung zeigt einen Spannungsabfall im Bereich von 0,5 bis 0,8 Volt für die am häufigsten verwendeten Silizium-Dioden an. Einige Germanium Dioden haben einen Spannungsabfall im Bereich von 0,2 bis 0,3 V. Bei einer funktionstüchtigen Diode in Sperrrichtung zeigt das Multimeter „OL“ an. Die OL-Anzeige gibt an, dass die Diode als offener Schalter agiert. Eine defekte (offene) Diode lässt keinen Stromfluss in irgendeine Richtung zu. Bei einer offenen Diode in beiden Richtungen zeigt das Multimeter „OL“ an. Eine Diode mit Kurzschluss weist in beiden Richtungen denselben Spannungsabfall (ca. 0,4 V) auf.

[@teardowndan5364]

Next up: string of three works fine free-standing on the ground, not working on roof because there is an isolation fault in the panels shorting out through the frame. The 4.6kOhm "resistance" is just test current leakage through the cells looking like 4.6k to the meter. BTW, there are two parameters to diode tests: maximum compliance voltage and test current. If you want to test the diodes without opening every panel, simply use a bench power supply set at 3A current limit and whatever voltage limit you want up to panel rating. You should get 3x 0.5-0.7V + wiring losses in the bypass direction (approx. 2V) and only leakage current through cells going backwards when all the diodes are fine. A high rest voltage and current may reveal faults that a handheld meter with 2-3V test voltage and 1mA test current won't.

[@2olvets443]

LMAO 😂 what an ending. I’ve had nights like that stressing over this or that.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Just what batteries and solar does to you 😁

[@BastelPichi]

Maybe just try and build a minimalistic diode tester with a led, a small bsttery and a resistor? That should be very easy and give clear results...

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The results of testing the diode are the same with both testers. Just the panels test differently.

[@henkbouhuyzen8255]

Parallel with the diode is the solar cell string. This string consists of multiple "cells" in series. It has to be some of these cells in that string that are not producing any energy. They are just becoming a resistive load and dragging the other parallel string down. That is the only remaining explanation.

[@petercamusojr1545]

Measuring the ISC, VOC, and the Max power point, Imp, Vmp and panel temperature is a good idea. Number each panel, record the time of day and put the data into a spreadsheet. The points (ISC,0) (Imp,Vmp,) (0,Voc, ) makes a VI curve were V is the x axis, I is the y axis. Overlay the curves on the same plot. Lots of good info can be extracted by looking at that plot. The bad panels will stick out like a sore thumb. Good luck.

[@rickpalmer9518]

Andy- you have to isolate each section and using a high wattage resistor and measure each third of the panel-can/t remember if the thirds are in series or parallel. The resister should draw 3-4 amps in series or 1.25 amps at least in parallel sections. forget using mppt for test. good luck

[@jean-yvesdore4312]

what else!... are you sure you have a problem? put them back to work and test them individually! I like your sense of humour.

[@marcinl4238]

Love your outros. Genius ;)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks! 😃

[@thorsten_b]

Great ending of this episode. As well as the start. Keep on going. People who can't spend the time to watch your full video - their fault :D. You could maybe measure the voltage per string (as you have the junction box open now) under full sun and as the strings are now without bypass diodes, you should see faulty panels by dropping voltages if your cells are really faulty. Just an idea. I'm not an electrician, but measuring the cell strings under load might help.

[@russkubes]

This is certainly getting frustrating, but sounds like you have a good idea to test/rank each panel separately. Maybe when you find the "bad" ones you can do open voltage and short current tests on each of the strings of the panel individually (from those different heatsink/pads within the diode box). Just to keep narrowing in on the specific cause.

[@jlc2345]

My first commend on your channel. Excellent series. I'm serious! You've got to solve this mystery. I'll buy you a beer if you can. :)

[@wilhelmberlin]

Hallo Andy. Ich sitze auf meinem Boot in Griechenland und habe gerade dein letztes Video gesehen. Die Alptraum Sequenz ist absolut Spitze, habe laut gelacht. Bin gespannt wo der Fehler liegt. Beste Grüße von der SY CUMULUS

[@liberdad8610]

A solar cells can act somewhat like a diode (a photo sensitive one) where current flows one direction (forward bias) when the cells are illuminated. A solar cell can also have a reverse bias where current flows in the opposite direction when the cells are in darkness. In the "old days" a blocking diode would be included as part of a solar array system (until charge controllers improved and added the functionality) to prevent a battery from being discharged because current would flow in reverse through the solar panels at night and radiate the battery power as heat into the night sky. A bypass diode does not block and will let power flow through the solar panel in reverse if the solar cells do not have any light on them to initiate a forward bias. This is how a bypass diode works, when solar cell(s) in parallel to a bypass diode are shaded the current flow changes to a reverse bias and current will flow through the bypass diode allowing current to bypass the shaded string of cells. So, could it be when measuring the diodes if the solar cell string is right on the cusp of either a forward or reversed bias point (because there is no strong light shining on them) that when a measurement is taken could the voltage and current of the meter itself influence the bias of the current flow through the diode so no matter which way you measure and test the diode it would show some voltage?

[@RND-USA]

It’s a relief that smarter people than me have problems too.

Not only great sense of humor, with some new idea and in another time You can be as Hichkok or Spilberg! Pleasure to watch You.

[@waynebignell8680]

Hi Andy, Great videos. Try measuring the voltage of each string while the panel is under load. Should show if a string is faulty.

[@MrSqueegey]

The dream sequence is crazy.😳😳😳😂😂😂😂

[@davegeorge7094]

I always found all DVM meters put out different voltage on the diode dial. I found they all put out less than 3.5 volts on diode setting no matter what power voltage supplied them.

[@dashley2525]

SunTech was my other option, but I went with Trina 460s, glad I did, so far so good

[@martyv442]

You have the ability to test the current of each individual string within the panel with the diodes disconnected. Try it and compare.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, thank you. This video is on my list...

[@williamfairley2502]

Andy your are in the wrong game......acting is your real talent, love the vids.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you William. I thought combining tutorial videos and horror is the real talent 😂

[@ennyw20]

Unglaublich... So langsam glaub ich dir jedes Wort 🤣🤣🤣🤣 und ja.. Immer bis zum ende schauen... Alle Daumen hoch... Ich ich hab so gelitten mit dir im letzten Video... Soll ich dir ne Kiste Augustiner schicken 😎🍻😎

[@wloulittle]

Hi there! Take your multimeter and in your test condition measure the VOLTAGE output of the panel. Just because you're in your shop you are shining light THREW the backside of the panel. Set the meter for maximum voltage sensitivity (the lowest voltage setting). See if there is a small voltage being generated from the lights in your shop. If there is, this is enough to mess with your readings. Put a board across the panel under test. This should get rid of the stray resistance you are seeing. Remember all that the panel is is a large PHOTO DIODE! Silicon diode!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

There is no light going through the back of these panels. I have some older ones where this is the case, but not with these ones.

[@sails3538]

Darn.... I'm having the same problem and hoped you would find an answer for me.... Darn.... I tried 3 different solar chargers... One a new Outback with no difference. My panels produce only half their rated amps. Oh... The outback was returned as it did not add extra amps to my battery bank over a day. My 10 Yr old POS morning star still works....and I will stick with it until I can find a solar controler that puts out 30 amps all day long.

[@davidrogers5343]

did you hook up all panels together and try that way? might think of something great yes, I'm watching your best person learn things from.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks David. I tried almost everything with these panels to find out what the problem is. We will do more testing soon...

[@ericanderson9004]

It is test current which matters, not voltage. We use meters which pass 10 amps to check electrical bonds on aircraft.. Run the panel without diodes… if you have a dc clamp meter check the short circuit current by connecting the leads together.

[@Ge-Fat]

hahaha, keep this up and i might sub lol! fyi, you are really doing well with this kind of content and i hope u can keep it up unlike most ppl that get burned out and start doing amazon sellout videos. Funny and informative! and some nightmares! i want a IMDB for youtube videos! 10/10

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you very much. I thought about this Amazon business already...

[@Ge-Fat]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia if you seen wranglestar he is a master of amazon sales

[@argorito]

Awesome end..... great adventure..... good luck

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thanks 👍

[@Xtrafix2015]

How can u get any reading if you got panels upside down in your garage at night? Maybe somebody hid a capacitor in there so u can have more to look for

[@uthaungnyi1257]

l am glad to know that and your project.😊

[@dtec30]

the more sensitive meter may have a higher frequency count when taking measurements

[@Powells-Off-Grid]

You have to test the panel strings in total darkness and completely together.

[@1981dasimpson]

i think for the bad panels put them in parallel for a 12v system then step up the voltage to charge you larger bank and i guess diodes been inline with the cells could be throwing off the results but testing the 2 known good panels and working right may still give credit to diode still been maybe part of a problem one hell of an outro tune

[@lahirugunawardena4015]

You are driving me nuts.... great work...,,,...

[@DavidShorthouse]

on the little black box do they have "Trina Solar " there was a big recall apparently & if they are rebranded? I am guessing but dont know due to your diode box? heat up the panel? see if it breaks the circuits ? Best of luck keep up the good work!!!!

[@polvincompoundsadmin5402]

Test the diodes under load with a 12v battery and a 50W car headlamp bulb. this gives enough load to overcome the solar panel messing with the result. Test a whole panel like this too

[@DieSonneSchicktKeineRechnug]

Sehr interesannt oder so. Mich interessiert die Spannung die du über je 12 einzelne Zellen messen kannst. Löte Leitungen an die Bleche, leg sie in die Sonne, schließe einen MPPT Laderegler an und mess die verschiedenen Spannungen an den Leitungen. Und den gerammt Strom. Bin sehr gespannt!

[@egermadnig]

Andy, I know you said you were tight, but please just break down and buy a name brand, 350 to 400 watt panels, expect to get about 80% of the rated name plate current and voltage at peak hours. keep cable length to a minimum, and use 10 gauge wire if possible, This should keep your Tesla happy, Grusse aus America

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I'm not at this point yet, Pete. I thought about it, but kept searching and learning...

[@blackfaithdoom9018]

This is what happens without a experienced person to teach us (a teacher)... . He would tell you straight whats the problem , without any "waste" of time .... , or struggle .. The end of this video is very nice ...., makes it worth to watch the hole series of "Faulty Diodes"-Episode .... Okay, whats the next video ? Is there a playlist , i am getting tired of searching for follow up videos ..

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

All videos are in chronological order on my channel, oldest at the bottom, newest at the top. www.youtube.com/@OffGridGarageAustralia/videos

[@gordonfoat8269]

Hahaha Brilliant 👍 like the evil wire stripper Jaws..