Allis Chalmers C Restoration Time Lapse Part 1

I recorded this video over the last few months with the Time Lapse Function on my iPhone. Narration by Yours, Truly.

[@wjewell7464]

love the video, inspiring me to get gramps tractor running again, Allis Chalmers C, with the wide front end. keep up the good work!!

[@jimstein8249]

Looks like you have the best little helper a Dad can ever have!!

[@aviator97msncom]

I like your little helper, he sped up the process by at least a week.

[@arontimmerman4487]

very nice and good video i look toward the next one

[@ryanslogging7069]

great job just like factory I got a 1948 wc allis its in need of a resto that needle gun is a great thing to have great job

[@skylerwurster6070]

Love it we have one that needs fixing this got me motivated 🙌

[@joeschlotthauer840]

It's amazing that you can get parts for these...

[@BobWilson84]

Yep, gotta love that fact.

[@joeschlotthauer840]

@@BobWilson84 What's your sources...

[@ShainAndrews]

I never considered using a needle scaler for paint removal. Used a lot of wire wheels, and of course blasting, but never a scaler. Very interesting.

[@BobWilson84]

Yep, its a fast but noisy way to remove paint.... check out the last video I made of this project. The needle scaler will leave traces of paint that might ruin an otherwise perfect paint job. It all depends on what you are going after. For cast iron pieces with a naturally rough finish, it can't be beat.

[@Everythingthatmoves]

Very good video! I sure wish the work on my tractor went this fast! Looking forward to the next parts!

[@OHIOMANUSMC]

Awesome job ! Exactly what I was looking forward to doing to mine but I came home from work one day and my at the time wife said that it had been stolen! Makes me so angry because of bringing it back from the dead and only paying $300 for it.

[@richardhaen]

Very good video, where do u find the serial nu on a C ? I think that it is a row tractor it sure . Thanks

[@thomasbellamy4850]

A fantastic time-lapse restoration video, thanks! I have just bought a needle de-scaler after seeing this, can I ask what psi or bar pressure do you use when you use one? Just so I know if I am getting the best results with my compressor - I have only tested the needle scaler once so far.

[@BobWilson84]

I think I ran the scaler around 50psi or so. It seems like anything above 55psi just made extra noise. I don't know what the CFM requirements are, but my 2-stage 80gal would run and stop every 2 or 3 minutes worth of run time. Good luck.

[@hendersonred]

I wish I could work as fast as you. :)

[@iowalakesgenealogicalsocie5822]

what was originaly under the fuel tand? Mine has a cotten mesh thought it might be original.

[@fcarp1685]

Looks like yu have a good method to your work. I have a 41 C. The drums are tough to work with. Good luck with everything I look forward to seeing its progress.

[@Midwesternrailroader]

Hello from Wisconsin, did you have a hard time finding parts during your project?

[@BobWilson84]

Nope, Not a problem at all. It helps that the model C, B, and CA used many of the same parts. Also, the bearings and seals are all available from many different sources. The part numbers are typically stamped in the original parts, so a quick google search is usually all it takes.

[@Midwesternrailroader]

@@BobWilson84 ok thanks I have a 41 wc that was my grandfather's that he farmed with. I hope to have it all restored by some time next year sometime.

[@johnb978]

Awesome video! I never would have striped it down to that level. So you have "simple tools", like hoists, press, and 5,000 sq ft of heated space in which to work....just like everybody does.

[@BobWilson84]

Well, simple tools compared to a full-blown heavy equipment shop. And yea, the heated space is really stinking nice in the Ohio Winters!

[@robertbenz496]

I have one of these and its running a bit crappy (Stalls alot or wont stay running) also leaking hydraulic fluid on the back. We really only use it to haul trees up front in the buffalo weather and to plow. I would love to keep it. By any chance; would you have any advice to maintenance it or manuals? This looks exactly like mine however mine is red and also my tires are widened. They are not close together like yours. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[@BobWilson84]

Hello fellow Robert. Based on your short comments and a wild guess; I would assume the problem is most likely fuel-related. There are many very good antique tractor forums with guys like myself who are happy to provide free advice. Use Google and start reading about your carburetor and steps to diagnose fuel problems. Petcock, Fuel filter screen, etc. If you'd like more help don't hesitate to send me a message. As for the hydraulic fluid leak... not much I can offer for you. Give it a good cleaning and see where the leak is and go from there. Good luck!

[@robertbenz496]

Thanks man. Anything helps really. I greatly appreciate it. This was a very cool video. Even inspirational.

[@machinery9353]

Did you remove the lower axles? If so how did you do it? I can’t get the gear to budge on the shaft.

[@BobWilson84]

Yes I did.... let’s see... remove the large nut and spring washer on the inside of the rear end, then I used a hammer and block of wood to push the axle out towards the outside. Took a lot of force and I think I also warmed the big gear with a propane torch on low.....

[@BobWilson84]

Oh..... and remove the bottom gear cover to spin and heat the gear evenly

[@kylecatchpole4133]

What did you use to get the paint off

[@BobWilson84]

Kyle Catchpole: TP-3035 from TP Tools

[@levibridge9515]

Was separating the engine and torque tube an easy thing to do? I have a B that im having trouble separating the 2.

[@BobWilson84]

Levi Bridge, the engine came right off, no problem. Are you having a hard time separating the housing and the engine case, or does the engine feel like it stuck from the inside? Make sure the engine is somewhat aligned and supported so the driveshaft doesn’t bind.

[@levibridge9515]

Ok. The bushing in the clutch Is not letting the shaft slide out. I'm thinking rust has built up in there.

[@BobWilson84]

Levi Bridge, could be. The bushing in mine was brass. I’m surprised it’s fighting you so much. Can you try and turn the engine over (by hand) with the tractor in gear and brakes on? That might free the driveshaft enough to persuade it

[@levibridge9515]

I can take the block and spin it completely over by hand. I have a couple ideas I want to try.

[@jaecubed592]

This is amazing. How do you have the knowledge to literally take this thing completely apart and put it back together? Is it possible for a novice to do such a thing? Not sure there are enough videos online to tackle every aspect. On to video 2.

[@BobWilson84]

Hi. Thanks for checking out my project. I’ve logged many hours playing with tractors and equipment of all sizes. Many mechanical principals are the same from machine to machine. This would probably be a daunting restoration for a novice, but it all comes down to patience, organization, and attention to detail. Photos along the way help too! Thanks again and have a good one.

[@jaecubed592]

@@BobWilson84 Thanks for getting back to me. I had a feeling something like this would be a major undertaking for a novice. But then again one has to start somewhere. Lol maybe just not this size.

[@42rifleman]

The carrier bearing is not installed all the way down on the inside! That’s a problem.

[@jennifersmiley61]

How do you heat your shop and how do you have it insulated?

[@BobWilson84]

Hi, natural gas tankless water heater for the radiant floor heat. A gas furnace for backup and immediate heat when needed, and a wood stove for weekends. Insulted with 2” foam under most of the floor, and batting insulation with foam in the walls.

[@DavidVanmeterDutch]

"Basic shop setup" LOL I have a 1935 Model B that I need and want to rebuild and I have nothing you have for shop equipment! I am screwed! HAHAAAA!

[@BobWilson84]

Hey man, all you need is a good ratchet set and a set of wrenches to do 90% of what I did!

[@glennbrooks9933]

Very good video, you should of used a respirator mask I'm sure there's lead in that paint, other than that very good.

[@BobWilson84]

Excellent point Glenn. Hindsight 20/20 I would have done that.

[@levibridge9515]

You wouldn't have the numbers for the bearings still would you?

[@BobWilson84]

Man, very sorry but I don’t. I did a poor job keeping records on this project.

[@ashtonriek8246]

You said it's an old tractor what do you expect, for when it was gonna leak. But your restoring it???

[@BobWilson84]

Hi. Not sure if I understand your comment. I suppose what I was trying to say is old tractors leak here and there, and even after a restoration it’s normal to have some leaks. It’s funny, before the restoration the rear main seal leaked and the front didn’t. After the restoration the rear seal doesn’t leak but the front does! I think it really comes down to the design of the seals. Felt / cork / cloth seals can be hit-or-miss even when they are new.

[@jarikinnunen1718]

Make good bench in first place. If you was working in floor, you know why.

[@BobWilson84]

You are so right. SOOOOO RIGHT. I also made a wooden Gantry crane recently which would have been a real back-saver.

[@briancarroll2843]

What year was this tractor

[@BobWilson84]

Late 1940s I believe

[@minnesotaoutdoorsnorth]

you said "b" tractor? it is a "c" b is wide front and c is narrow???

[@BobWilson84]

I don’t know that for sure... I wish I knew more about the various model designations.

[@bonniejocoleman8667]

I got a 1950 for sale tractor Allis Chalmer

[@benwinstanley101]

Don’t talk dude